To grow pepper, you need to know the technology and features of this process well. But no less responsible business is the collection of fruits. To get a good harvest and save it for future use, it is very important to follow all the rules for removing fruits from the bushes. What are these rules - we will consider later in the article.

When is the best time to shoot peppers?

Bulgarian pepper is grown both in the greenhouse and on open ground. In order for the fruits of this culture to be stored better and longer, they must be removed on time, and most importantly, correctly removed from the bush. The removal time depends on the type of vegetable. The first harvest can be harvested, as a rule, in mid-July, but its main part finally ripens by the end of August - the beginning of September.

Did you know? The Aztecs and Mayans used hot peppersas a substitute for salt, which was not well known to them, and sweet ones were used as an ordinary vegetable.

In the open field

Harvest time for outdoor vegetables is affected by 3 main factors:

• ripening periods, different for each individual variety: for early ones - 70–80 days, for late ones - from 130 days or more;
• variety of culture - bitter or sweet;
• seasonal weather conditions.

Harvest of the main part of the crop begins in mid-August, the fruits are removed at intervals of 6-8 days. By the onset of the first frost, not a single vegetable should remain on the bushes.

After harvesting the fruits, they need to be sorted according to the degree of maturity. Those that did not have time to fully ripen must be folded separately for ripening.

With proper storage conditions, this crop can be stored for a long time, even longer than tomatoes or eggplants can be stored.

The rules for storing pepper are as follows:

1. The main condition is that vegetables should not have any flaws (scratches, traces of diseases, cracks, dents).
2. Fruits with thin walls are best stored in the refrigerator, but first you need to cut off their stalks so that a small tip remains.
3. Ripe vegetables should be stored at a temperature of +1...+2°C, and those that are still ripening - at +10...+12°C.

Important!Plastic bags and boxes are great for storing peppers, in which the fruits need to be folded and sprinkled with sawdust.

in the greenhouse

The ripening of this culture in greenhouse conditions occurs in 90-110 days, the fruits can be harvested for a long time. The fruiting period, as with growing in open beds, depends on the variety.

Finally ripened fruits, which are at the level of the third tier from the soil, should be selected for seed collection. The collected vegetables should be set aside until completely dry, and only after that the seeds are removed from them. Seeds are wrapped in paper or placed in paper bags and stored until completely dry. Shelf life - 3 years.

How to understand that peppers are ripe

Signs of ripening of this vegetable crop:

• by color - vegetables should be red, yellow, pale lemon, purple;
• in size and shape, the fruit must correspond to its variety;
• pepper is elastic, poured, has a fresh smell.

In addition to these signs, it is worth considering the technical and biological ripeness of the fruit.

Did you know?Mayan Indians rubbed gums with hot pepper to get rid of toothache.

Technical maturity

This type of ripeness occurs on the 20-45th day after the flowering period. The culture has not yet reached its full maturity, but already corresponds to the parameters of a ripe vegetable. It is necessary to harvest sweet pepper at this time in order to successfully transport, preserve and sell it. Fruit color can be dark green, white, yellowish. During technical maturity, vegetables are harvested selectively, every 5–10 days, until the first cold weather.

With technical ripeness, subject to the rules of storage, the pepper feels great up to 2 months and gradually ripens. When moving harvested crop in a sunny or well-lit place, full maturity will come faster than when storing vegetables in a dark place, and the color will correspond to a fully ripened fruit of its variety.

biological ripeness

This ripeness is also called physiological. This is the real ripeness of the pepper, at which it reaches the required size on the bush and acquires the appropriate color. Biologically mature fruits have bright colors - red, yellow, orange, brown, purple.

The harvested crop during physiological maturity cannot be stored - vegetables must be immediately sold or processed. Collect them every 4-5 days. It must be remembered that if ripe vegetables are not harvested on time, the branching of the bush may stop, which may adversely affect the volume of the subsequent harvest.

Important! A feature of bitter red pepper is that it needs to be harvested only after the onset of biological maturity.

When determining the degree of maturity of hot pepper, the following main features are used:

• colorful color of the pod - red, orange, yellow;
• dry leaves at the bottom of the bush and yellowing upper ones;
• the ripened fruits of this vegetable are saturated with bitter burning substances, and if you rub the pod a little on the skin, you should feel a burning sensation.

The ideal time to harvest bitter pods for long-term storage is late September.

If the hot pepper is harvested before biological maturity, it does not contain a sufficient amount of hot substances. Such vegetables are usually used for conservation.

How to pick peppers

During the harvest, there is no need to rush to collect everything at once. An incorrectly removed fruit will not be stored, it will quickly rot, and if other vegetables lie next to it, they will also begin to rot. Be sure to use a sharply sharpened knife or garden shears for harvesting. In no case should you pluck the fruits from the bush - they are very fragile and delicate, breaks, cracks, dents and scratches may appear on them, which will lead to damage.

So, knowing the correct technology for picking pepper fruits is necessary if you want to get the richest possible harvest. This technology is not complicated, but requires compliance with the rules for the collection of this vegetable crop. In this way, you will be able to save your crop for a long period.

When to start harvesting a pepper depends on what variety it is and what you are growing it for.

Types of ripeness of pepper

Pepper has two different types ripeness - technical(at which the fruit must begin to be harvested for storage, transportation or sale) and biological(real ripeness in every sense, it is also called physiological). In a state of technical ripeness, the fruits are usually greenish (from dark green to almost white) or yellowish, although there are exceptions. Bright - yellow, orange, red, brown, purple, etc. - the fruits become when they reach biological ripeness.

Collection and storage of sweet pepper

It is especially important to keep these two different ripeness points in mind when growing sweet peppers. If you did not remove the sweet pepper on time, and the biological ripeness has already come, the fruits should be used immediately after being removed from the branch, because they lie very badly. But the fruits collected in a state of technical ripeness can be stored in suitable conditions for up to two months and allowed to ripen as needed. They took the pod out of the refrigerator or cellar, put it in a lighted place - and soon it will change color to mature.

Collection and storage of hot pepper

Hot pepper, on the contrary, is usually harvested in a state of biological ripeness: the walls of its pod are thinner and not so fleshy, they dry out more easily than rot, especially since the burning substance contained in them also serves as a light preservative. The more ripe the pod, the more of this substance it contains.

Knowing this, you can sort of manage its pungency (in case you use whole pods, for example, when pickling other vegetables) and collect fully ripened fruits for those family members who like spicy, and for those who are too spicy does not like - in a state of technical ripeness.

Please tell us about the timing and rules for harvesting peppers. I heard that it is better to harvest it green, and not wait for full ripening.

Andrey Anatolyevich KUPAKOVYCH, Vitebsk region, Novopolotsk

It is better to use terms technical and biological maturity. In the first case we are talking about fruits that have reached the size determined by the variety, but have not yet acquired its inherent color. When the pods are green, they are harvested for sale, transportation, and storage. At biological maturity, the fruits become bright - red, yellow, orange, brown and even black. Both fruits can be used for food and harvesting.

AT summer period peppers in technical maturity are more in demand. They must be removed at a stage when they have reached standard sizes and acquired a glossy surface. In this phase, they are more transportable and have better keeping quality. Contrary to popular belief, fruits in technical maturity have a richer flavor.

The following factor is also important: if you collect peppers in the phase of technical ripeness, the plant will consume nutrients not on their ripening, but on the growth of the remaining fruits.

On a note

In terms of nutritional content, pepper surpasses tomato and eggplant, and in terms of the amount of vitamin C (105-270 mg%), it has no equal among vegetables. It should be noted that in the process of maturation of the fetus, the content of this health element doubles. Therefore, from the point of view of biological value for nutrition, it is desirable to use fully ripe peppers. After the appearance of color, a lot of carotene, rutin, and also B vitamins also accumulate in the fetus. Nicotinic and folic acids are contained in significant quantities.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS

Varieties of Bulgarian selection are harvested at the stage of technical ripeness, in this state the pepper is already quite edible and well ripened.

Hybrids of the Dutch selection at the stage of technical ripeness are tasteless and difficult to ripen, so they should be removed no earlier than the first smear of varietal color appears. It is even better to grow them to the stage of biological ripeness right on the bushes, then they really taste great! In this case, as their color develops, the content of sugars in the fruit pulp increases. A characteristic sign of the full ripening of pepper is a slight drying of the fruit tissue.

However, in this situation, you need to correctly determine the "golden mean". When harvesting fully ripened fruits, the plants are more weakened, so yields can be half as much.

You can ripen peppers at room temperature in boxes or open plastic bags, avoiding direct sunlight. To speed up the process, you can put 1-2 ripe fruits. It is advisable to turn the pods from time to time.

HOW TO COLLECT PEPPER CORRECTLY?

Picking peppers is carried out every 3-5 days. In no case can pluck a fruit from a bush, as this can harm the stem. A hard dense stalk is cut with a pruner.

On the pepper seeds are harvested at the onset of full biological ripeness and leave to ripen for 3-4 weeks. After that, the fruits are cut in a circle near the calyx and the “insides” are taken out by the stem along with the seeds. For several days (3-4), this part of the fruit is dried at a temperature of 25-30 degrees, after which the seeds are separated and put into paper bags.

The reader's question was answered by agronomist Andrey Viktorovich DOLININ, Smolensk

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There are no peculiarities and difficulties in harvesting pepper. The main thing is to take care of the preservation of the resulting crop in time, correctly determine the timing of harvesting and correctly lay vegetables for the winter. In August, a noticeable cold snap is already possible, so do not miss the moment to harvest. Affected low temperatures The fruits don't last long. For better preservation, it is necessary to harvest pepper in technical ripeness, in order to obtain germinating seeds - in biological.

When to harvest bell peppers?

Pepper harvesting times will differ depending on whether the soil is open or protected, and under what climatic conditions it grows in you.

• Peppers require a temperature of 20-28°C for optimal growth and development.
• At a temperature of 15 ° C, the plant stops growing, and at a temperature close to zero, the plant dies.
• There are concepts of technical and biological ripeness of pepper.
• You can harvest at any stage.

___________________________________________________________________

The technical crop is characterized by the fact that pepper:

• gained mass
• reached a certain size for the variety,
• became elastic
• but its seeds have not yet ripened,
• and the fruit has not acquired its varietal color.

1. It is recommended to harvest peppers in technical ripeness, so you will get large yields throughout the season.
2. After all, when we harvest fruits in technical ripeness, new fruits grow faster on the plant, and then the yield increases significantly.
3. For quick ripening of peppers harvested at the stage of technical ripeness, put 1-2 ripe fruits in a box with vegetables. In this case, the fruits can be both the pepper itself and other ripe vegetables that emit ethylene, which serves as a ripening catalyst. Both red apples and tomatoes will noticeably help peppers reach biological ripeness.

When the pepper reaches biological ripeness:

• its fruits acquire the full color characteristic of the variety or hybrid - red, orange, yellow, purple, etc.
• Biologically ripe fruits contain more vitamin C and P vitamins, as well as carotenoids (substances important for the body).

Bringing sweet pepper to biological ripeness on a bush adds another 20-25 days to the fruit ripening time

1. Therefore, it makes sense to harvest the biological crop of pepper only to obtain seeds, it is in such peppers that they are fully ripe with good germination. Do not forget that seeds can be collected from varietal peppers, but it is undesirable to collect seeds from hybrids.
2. In general, fruits harvested in biological ripeness are stored in the same way as fruits in technical ripeness, just with technical ripeness they will lie longer and can wait for their biological ripeness.
3. Peppers collected at biological maturity are usually eaten immediately.

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How to clean sweet peppers

Pepper must be handled with care, it has a very brittle bush and brittle stems, so try not to damage the plant when harvesting.

1. It is convenient to cut the fruits of pepper with a sharp knife or secateurs, supporting the stem itself.
2. In the greenhouse, it is recommended to harvest the fruits 2 times a week, starting from mid-July.
3. Dense fruits with a glossy sheen are ready for harvest - they have technical ripeness.
4. The wall thickness of the pepper depends more on the variety than on the maturity of the fruit and can be from 5 to 12 mm. It is believed that the thicker the wall, the tastier the peppers.
5. After cutting the fruit, you can remove the lower leaves on the pepper plant.

How to store bell peppers

• Before storing, inspect all vegetables - the fruits must be healthy, free of cracks and other damage from diseases and pests.
• Crumpled, gnawed and diseased fruits will not lie for a long time, it is better to process them and eat them first in the near future.
• When preparing peppers for long-term storage, they should not be washed, you can simply shake off the dirt from them or wipe them with a dry cloth.
• Ripe sweet peppers are stored in plastic bags or boxes, sprinkled with sawdust.
• It is best to store pepper in a special room - in a cellar, a barn, a vegetable store with a temperature of 6 to 12 ° C.

– temperatures 8-10 °C;
- high humidity 95-97%.

How to store sweet peppers at home

1. If you store peppers at home, then choose a well-ventilated place with high humidity.
2. It can be a box or a rack standing near the balcony.
3. At the same time, it is better to place the pepper closer to the floor, where the humidity is supposedly higher and the draft is walking.
4. You can additionally wrap each pepper with a napkin or paper - so the vegetables will last even longer.

​Related Articles​​In my garden, I usually plant no more than a dozen peppers of different varieties. At the same time, I try to place them as far apart as possible, separating them with tall tomatoes, sunflowers, and corn.

Pour the soil in which the peppers grow with water and feed the plants: for 10 liters of water, 10-12 g of ammonium nitrate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate.

Wilting disease is manifested by leaf drop and is usually caused by fungi. In this case, the diseased plant is removed and burned.

All malformed ovaries are removed so as not to delay the development of healthy fruits.

Sowing seeds of pepper

Tents made of wooden blocks, cardboard, matting, burlap, roofing material and other materials are reliable protection. Bushes cover with tents in the evening and open in the morning when it gets warmer.

In order for the fruits to be better tied up, 2 g of superphosphate is added to each top dressing (under each root).

From the moment of spring tillage to planting seedlings in the ground, sometimes a month or more passes. Therefore, the earth is maintained in a loose and weed-free state, after each rain the top layer is loosened with a rake to prevent the formation of a crust and the evaporation of moisture. Along the way, germinated weeds are also destroyed. If there is no rain, then loosening is carried out as soon as weed shoots appear.

​Excellent quality bell pepper is that he is not hygrophilous. It does not need to be watered often, which makes it easier to care for seedlings. However, too dry conditions in film greenhouses can ruin the plant. When it does not get water, the flowers fall, which ultimately negatively affects the crop. If you do not have the opportunity to water the bell pepper in portions on time, create conditions in order to retain moisture. In this regard, mulching will help, otherwise, a mound of grass that is placed on the beds. Mulching also creates warmth and humus. If you use mulch, then the plant can be watered only three times a week.​

Vitamins P, C, B, B1, B9, potassium, magnesium, iodine, iron, chromium, calcium and many other trace elements make pepper indispensable in the fight for a healthy heart and blood vessels. Unfortunately, in pursuit of a large harvest, an industrial vegetable is saturated with pesticides. Therefore, it is better if you grow bell pepper yourself.

When pepper shoots appear, the weak ones are often removed and the stronger ones are left. During the next branching of the shoots, each of them is pinched again, leaving strong and strong shoots.

Seedling feeding

The birthplace of pepper is America - in areas where a tropical climate prevails, you can still find wild-growing individuals of pepper. ​

I noticed that the maximum yield is given by peppers that are grown through seedlings, on well-fertilized soft soil, with uniform moisture throughout the entire growing period. Usually I fertilize the soil with humus or compost for digging - 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m. Subsequently, I feed with mullein or bird droppings, diluted with water 1:10 and 1:20, respectively. All this gives good results.​

helper plants

How to plant seedlings and create favorable conditions for growth?

Folk way

During frosts and prolonged cooling, temporary film shelters are used, as well as smoke and sprinkling. The material for the smoke heaps is selected so that it produces thick smoke. Sprinkling is especially effective if the installation provides a fine spray.​

Pepper gives more yield if it is fed with urea, and not with mullein.

The timing of planting pepper seedlings depends on weather conditions and the location of the site. On the southern slopes, on non-frost areas, they are planted earlier - in the middle or end of May. If the vegetable grower does not have means of temporary protection of plants from frost, then they start planting when the danger of frost has passed (not earlier than June 10-15).

The time that comes for gartering a plant, you can easily determine by the ripening of the crop. When the fruits are poured, they begin to bend the seedlings to the ground. It was at this time that you need to install a support for each bush and tie it with a rag ribbon.

Sweet pepper is not very whimsical, so it can be grown throughout Russia. Somewhere you will need to give it more heat, somewhere more nutrients, but, one way or another, its cultivation will not be a problem for you.

How and what to feed?

The plant is very thermophilic and at the same time moisture-loving. It represents the nightshade family and is distinguished by its capriciousness.

Vasily Ivanovich ALEINIK, Minsk region, Volozhinsky district

If you want peppers to be sweet, thick and shiny, do not be lazy to prevent diseases of this plant, but without chemicals.

For 10 liters of water, add 1 glass of wood ash and tobacco dust, insist for a day and filter well, add 2 tbsp. l. liquid soap and spray. Especially carefully - the inner surface of the leaves.

Harvest

How to increase the yield?

In some years, peppers bear fruit until October. It tolerates cold weather much better than a tomato.

"Lunch" for pepper

Peppers are best planted in a ribbon way. The distance between the ribbons is 50-60 cm, between the plants in a row - 15-25 cm. Early ripe, undersized varieties are placed in a row after 15 cm, or two plants per hole, but at a distance of 30-40 cm.

Pepper's little enemies

Pasynkovanie is also important and desired process so that the bell pepper gives a wonderful harvest. It consists in breaking the branches on the stem of the plant from below. Otherwise, this is called the removal of stepchildren. This must be done so that the nutrients do not go to the growth of additional stems, but to the ripening of the fruit. It is not worth tearing off stepchildren in the heat, since in such weather they, on the contrary, help the stem to cool.

There are different varieties of plants, and their choice depends on what kind of crop you want to harvest in the end. If you need the fruits of bell pepper for cooking all kinds of dishes and eating in its natural form, then you should opt for varieties such as Gladiator or Ermak.​

About the beneficial properties of pepper

1. Wormwood and tansy are harvested during flowering, cutting plants with stems. Half a bucket of green mass is boiled for 10-15 minutes in a small amount of water, the broth is allowed to cool, filtered, brought to a volume of 10 liters and pepper bushes are sprayed.
2. Experienced gardeners know what peppers need to be healthy.
3. For this:
4. Harvested fruits for one or even two months can be stored in a dry, moderately warm room.
5. I grow peppers in the garden. I noticed: growing this crop on raised beds 15-25 cm high and 70-90 cm wide in their upper part gives a high effect. Seedlings take root better on them, ripening is accelerated by 7-10 days, yield at the first harvest by 30-50% more than on a flat surface.​

ParnikiTeplicy.com

When to remove pepper from the greenhouse? (photo and video instruction)

Landing technique is very important. Many vegetable growers are doing it wrong. First, a hole is made, seedlings are immersed in it, then the roots are covered with earth and watered. With such a planting, already on the second day, a crust forms at the place of irrigation, which enhances the evaporation of moisture from the lower layers of the soil, makes it difficult for air to reach the roots and beneficial soil microorganisms, and worsens the conditions for plant survival. Therefore, the vegetable grower is forced to water the seedlings almost daily until it takes root.

Pepper varieties

Greenhouse pepper care also consists in the qualitative removal of weeds that can inhibit seedlings, depriving them of nutrition and light. Not only weeding, but also mulching will help solve the problem. In the shade of chopped grass, harmful plants practically do not grow.

But "Medal", "Black Cardinal" and "Victoria" will suit you if the purpose of growing a plant is pickling. It is necessary to feed the plants every seven days with mineral fertilizers or compost, having prepared a solution in advance with the addition of water and a small concentration of fertilizer. After 15 days after planting, the first top dressing is carried out. You can use mullein, diluted in ten parts of water, with the addition of 25 g of superphosphate.​If you are partial to the process of planting cultivated plants, then tips on growing peppers will be very useful information.

If you are warm, let it grow

Growing seedlings and moving them to the greenhouse

Yarrow is harvested at the beginning of flowering, 1.5 kilograms of chopped greens are poured with 2-3 liters of boiling water, insisted for two days, filtered, brought to 10 liters. They also prepare infusions for processing peppers from tomato and potato tops. And for those who are taking their first steps in gardening, these tips, we hope, will help to figure out what the plants are moping about. Remove the central flower growing from the first branching of the bush pepper;

Pepper in the "sleeve"

Growing peppers in a greenhouse

And, of course, I make sure to feed my favorite culture.

The correct landing technique is as follows. First, using a cord or marker, mark the ribbons. Then, holes 10-12 cm deep are made along each row every 15-30 cm with a planting scoop or hoe. Each hole is watered at the rate of 0.5-1 l of water per plant. Potted or potless seedlings are planted in the resulting "dirt", covered with soil and compacted. From above, around the planted seedlings, peat or dry soil is poured with a layer of 3-4 cm. This loose layer serves as a mulch that will prevent moisture from evaporating from the hole and the lower soil horizon. After planting is completed, it is impossible to water the mulch layer - in order to avoid the formation of a soil crust.​

As for fertilizers, in this case you will have to work hard, because varieties of sweet peppers love versatile top dressing. In small quantities, fertilize the soil in film greenhouses should be weekly. It is necessary to take into account the fact that during the growing season the plant especially needs nitrogen-containing substances. As it matures, you need to add fertilizers with phosphorus. If aphids appear, fertilize with substances with potassium.

These best pepper varieties for greenhouses are small in size and can fit comfortably in jars.

5 liters of solution can be used per 1 m². You can also feed peppers with Sudarushka, Ideal, Biomaster fertilizers, chicken droppings.

So, we read about the secrets of growing sweet peppers.

Green, but they can walk in the warmth.

Peppers outside the greenhouse

100 g of fresh fruits of hot pepper are boiled in 1 liter of water in a saucepan under a closed lid for an hour, insisted for two days. Then the pepper is ground, the infusion is stirred, filtered and diluted 1:10.

If grown peppers are deficient in nitrogen, then the leaves turn pale, then turn yellow from the main vein to the edges and fall off. The fruits are thin-walled, curved in the form of a crescent.

Pepper care in the greenhouse

Improve pollination by spraying the plant during flowering with a solution of sugar or honey to attract pollinating insects.

The greatest need for nitrogen in pepper is manifested before flowering and during mass ripening of fruits. Its deficiency is indicated by the pale green color of the upper leaves, yellowing and dying of the lower ones. I bring in two or three days before planting seedlings (or for spring digging) at 10-20 g per square meter. m of ammonium nitrate. I spend the first top dressing three to four weeks after planting, the second - after the second or third harvest, before watering - 10-15 g / sq. m. Fertilizers can be dissolved in irrigation water. But you can not exceed the norm, since pepper accumulates excess fertilizer in the fruits in the form of nitrates.

"Lower" watering into the wells, the creation of a mulching layer around the plant ensures rapid survival of seedlings, does not require subsequent daily watering, which inevitably happens with "upper" watering.

There are no specific rules that say that it is definitely time to remove pepper from the greenhouse. But the summer resident can easily recognize ripe peppers by their appearance. It is necessary to collect it in film greenhouses together with the stalk. Take scissors and carefully cut the fruit. If your crop is large, then it makes sense to sort it. You need to remove and put a clean pepper in one pile, the damaged one will go for blanks - we put it aside in the second. And we remove the unripe in the third. Peppers should be harvested in the fall before the onset of frost. It should be borne in mind that different varieties and mature differently. So, early ripe varieties should be removed starting from the 90th day of their life. Mid-season ripen at 110 - 130 days. And late-ripening peppers, respectively, need to be harvested after 130 days.

Greenhouse conditions, thanks to which the plant receives the necessary temperature for ripening, is not the only requirement for gardeners. The harvest of bell pepper ripens well when the plant develops in the soil specially prepared for it. However, it is not difficult to do this at all. The main thing is to create a new fertile layer. It is advisable if you bring into the greenhouse a layer of soil that was previously used for growing pumpkins, onions, carrots or cabbage. The addition of compost or manure is also encouraged. In addition, during the planting of seedlings, the use of industrial mineral fertilizers will not interfere. But for the presence of fungus and rot you need to look. Then you can harvest a rich pepper crop.

When to harvest?

It is important during fruiting to feed the plant with fertilizer, which contains more N and Ca.

You can grow peppers by seedlings. And for this it is necessary to sow the seeds in advance, 50-60 days earlier than the seedlings begin. Choose only fresh seeds for seedlings.

Harvest problems

We always remove gradually - they do not ripen evenly. We remove the green ones already before tearing out the bush.

100 g of chopped garlic (onion) pour 3 liters cold water, leave for 3 hours, add another 3 liters of water, filter and immediately process the plants.

Plants must be fed with slurry diluted with water 1:5, or ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per 10 liters of water).

Remember!

I take a rectangle of plastic film measuring 25 by 70 centimeters, sew it along the short side. It turns out a film sleeve 25 cm long. I dig a hole in the ground 30 cm deep. I line the bottom with turf.

Pepper especially needs phosphorus at the beginning of the growing season, when the underdeveloped root system of the plant cannot ensure its timely supply from the soil. I apply superphosphate as the main fertilizer during autumn or early spring digging up the soil, to a depth of 5-15 cm, 30-45 g / sq. m. Elevated temperature soil on the ridges improves the solubility of phosphates. True, superphosphate should be applied only on soils poor in phosphorus.

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For better survival, the roots are dipped in a clay mash (if the seedlings were grown without picking).

A word of advice for those who want to harvest quickly: unripe fruits will sing faster when you cut off the top of the bush. It is then that the pepper itself will do everything to make the fruits ripen faster. Although you can still shoot an unripe vegetable. After a while, he will ripen.

Bulgarian pepper is a heat-loving and unhurried plant. Proper cultivation of pepper in a greenhouse also depends on the placement of seedlings in the garden. Put it in the necessary conditions better even before landing in the garden in February.

The flowering process in pepper lasts until the very frost. Do not allow the plant to overheat during flowering. The norm of temperature indicators is + 24- + 26 degrees.​
Pepper seeds are capricious, and therefore you need to take the process of growing seedlings with all responsibility. They can be sown in trays or pots, and then put in a warm place.
But I plant 50 bushes on such a bed. Literally after 15-20 cm, so many of them turn out.
Do I need to dive seedlings of sweet pepper? Many will answer: of course! However, not everyone knows that such technology is not always a boon, especially for delicate crops such as sweet peppers.​
Potassium deficiency? The lower leaves are yellow, the edges dry out, but remain green near the veins. Shoots stop growing, spots appear on the fruits.
Pepper does not like potassium chloride.
In the film sleeve, in the corners, I insert four pegs, three of which are five or six centimeters longer than the sleeve, and the fourth is very large - a meter high. The sleeve looks like a square. I deepen it by 6-7 cm and fix it with pegs in the prepared place. I fill the hole with fertile soil, seasoned with humus and fertilizer, but not to the top so that the water does not roll off during irrigation. From above it is desirable to put a layer of needles, sawdust. It turns out like a mine for planting vegetables. I plant two roots of pepper seedlings grown in advance in one - together they grow together more amicably. I tie bushes to the longest peg. I place mines one after another at a distance of 15-20 cm, between rows - 30 cm.
But pepper needs potassium from tying until the end of fruit ripening.
A great effect is the introduction of an organomineral mixture when planting in the well (200-300 g of humus or peat, 5-10 g of superphosphate and potassium salt each). After planting is completed, the aisles are loosened with a rake to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil.
Caring for pepper in a greenhouse is not only timely watering, but also a fight against problems. In the process of aging, peppers can experience various difficulties, get sick and suffer from pests. But if you take care of it in time, identify the cause of the problems and provide competent care, you can defeat any disease, any rot.
The seeds of the plant are placed in boxes, after a month they are transplanted into peat pots.
The plant has been grown, but now, for the purpose of good pollination, it needs a slight shaking during flowering. When fruits are formed, flowering slows down. Pepper stalks should be tied up during fruiting - this way you can protect them from breakage.
Before sowing, it is necessary to prepare the seeds of the plant, for this, treat the seeds in a 1% solution of manganese for 15 minutes, then rinse and place the seeds in a wet cloth for 2-3 days.
Depending on where you live. Pepper is very afraid of frost, even the slightest. In the meantime, there is no threat of frost, let it ripen. But plucked peppers are stored for a very long time in a cool, ventilated room.
After all, after this procedure, the growth of seedlings slows down - the roots of sweet pepper are very sensitive to the slightest mechanical influences.
Feed the peppers with potassium sulfate (10-15 g per 10 liters of water). And until they recover, do not apply fertilizers containing calcium and magnesium.
Top dressing from a barrel
And then all the work - watering and top dressing. Weeds practically do not grow in mines!​

Now about watering. Before the start of fruit formation, I water at the rate of two liters of water per day per 1 sq. m, during the period of mass fruit formation - 4-6 liters per sq. m. In a wet year, pepper requires only 3-4 waterings, in an average year - 5-7, in a dry year - 8-12. In general, during the growing season, the plant needs 400-550 liters of water per 1 sq. m. Depending on the conditions of the year, it is provided with precipitation by 20-60%, moisture reserves in the soil - by two or three, everything else - by irrigation. In a dry spring, I do preplant watering (20-30 liters per sq. M). Two days after planting the seedlings, for its better survival, I carry out refreshing watering - 10-15 liters per square meter. m, if there was a preplant, or 20-25 liters per sq. m, if there was none.
The root system of pepper is located shallow in the soil, and is very responsive to loosening. The influx of air to the roots accelerates the growth and development of plants, activates the biological activity of soil microorganisms, and improves nutrition.​
So, yellow leaves will tell you about excessively dry air, even if the ground is moist. If the plant does not grow or flowering has stopped, the reason may lie in the cold. If you notice that the trunk and shoots become as if wooden, the fault is inappropriate climatic conditions - the temperature is below +15 or above +30 degrees.
This should be done when the bell pepper has a few leaves. They are planted in pots in pairs. For seedlings already at home, special care is needed. For example, you need to loosen the soil daily. But it is necessary to water moderately.
When the fruits are ripe, carefully pick them up, as they are very fragile. If, after harvesting the first crop, complex top dressing with mineral fertilizers is carried out, then a secondary crop awaits you ahead.

Pepper seeds are sown in containers at a short distance from each other, then covered with a film until the sprouts sprout.
Cool thriller. Such sniffing behind the scenes)))
To avoid this, try growing peppers without a pick. Soak the seeds in advance in a solution of potassium permanganate or a growth stimulator, or simply hold them for several hours in warm water. Cut off the bottom corner of plastic bags from under sour cream so that water can drain and fold the bag in half - you get narrow "cups". After filling them with soil, place them tightly in a box or box. Pour the soil in bags with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, spread 1-2 seeds into each of them and sprinkle with soil in a 1 cm layer. Carefully cover the box with foil and place in a warm place where the air temperature is 25-27 degrees.
With a deficiency of phosphorus, the leaves acquire a bluish-green hue, and then, together with the stems and petioles, become purple-red. After the leaves curl, the stem becomes thinner, flowering is delayed, and, accordingly, the harvest, and the roots are covered with a rusty coating.
During flowering, 6-7 kg of chopped nettle, plantain leaves, dandelion, wood lice, coltsfoot, 10 liters of mullein and a glass of wood ash are added to a 100-liter barrel. Fill to the top with water, mix and infuse for 7-10 days. Feed at the rate of 1 liter under a bush.

In autumn, after harvesting a bountiful harvest, I leave all mines in place. I don’t dig anything, because under them the earthworms are warm and satisfying. In the spring they wake up and begin their life-giving work. I remove the stakes, take out the sleeves, level the ground with a rake. Instead of polyethylene, you can use old boards, pieces of slate, and linoleum trimmings to build mines.
In August, when the bulk of the fruit is formed, pepper especially needs water. Moisture deficiency sharply reduces the yield. Depending on the rainfall, I water the pepper every 8-12 days. On hot days (but not in cold windy weather!) evening sprinkling of 10-15 liters per square meter gives good results. m. I stop watering the pepper 10-15 days before the last harvest.
Pepper roots do not like direct sunlight. When the plants bloom, you need to close the crowns. Do not plant sweet and hot peppers side by side, as they will all become bitter due to cross-pollination.
As for pests from the genus of insects, the enemies of pepper are aphids, thrips or the Colorado potato beetle. It is necessary to destroy them with special chemistry.
The ceremony of planting seedlings in the greenhouse should be done when the soil has already warmed up enough - around the end of April, if the plant has a sufficient number of leaves. And clean as it matures.
Pepper has the property of pollination, in this regard, do not plant bitter and sweet peppers next to each other. This can lead to the fact that bitterness can be transmitted to sweet.
The soil for pepper is chosen rich, with a high degree of fertility. To grow seedlings, it is important not to forget that the soil must be warm. So, the temperature of the soil should be at least 25 degrees Celsius. In addition, it must be kept moist until the seedlings emerge.
I live in Siberia. I grow peppers without a greenhouse. I always collect green - the way you have it now. If you already have frosts soon, collect them. If it is warm before the end of October, let it grow.
So that the earth does not dry out, check the soil moisture every day, monitor the condition of the crops. As a rule, shoots usually appear after 7-10 days. As soon as this happens, move the box to a bright, warm place and remove the film immediately. Five days after the emergence of seedlings, they must be fed with mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate. In the future, this should be done every 10 days. Water the seedlings as needed with warm, settled water. When the peppers grow up, the bags should be unfolded completely and the soil should be added to them.

At the first signs of starvation, dilute 0.8 g of ammophos and 2.8 g of potassium nitrate in 1 liter of water and water the plants.
During fruiting, 1 bucket of mullein and 1 glass of urea are poured into a 100-liter barrel, poured with water, mixed well and infused for 4-5 days. Pepper is watered at the rate of 5 liters per 1 m2.
T. V. LANDYSHEVA
I start watering on the beds 7-10 days earlier than on a flat surface, since here the evaporating surface of the soil is larger and the plants are more powerful.

Pepper does not tolerate frost on the soil. He does not tolerate a high level of groundwater and even short-term flooding. The soil in which the seedlings are transplanted should be structurally better than the one in which the seedlings grow.
If you want to remove blossom end rot, you should feed the plant with calcium fertilizer. This disease is considered a real pepper scourge.
The process of planting sweet pepper seedlings must be observed not only in accordance with calendar dates, but also with temperature conditions. So, the plant should be planted in soil warmed up to at least +18 degrees. By the way, if you are the proud owner of a heated greenhouse, then it makes sense to plant seeds immediately in the greenhouse.​
Pepper pests: (1-aphid, 2-Colorado potato beetle, 3-mites, 4-scoop).

Pepper seeds are sown in a warm and moist soil substrate (a depth of 1-2 cm is enough). To prevent the topsoil from drying out, cover the crop with polyethylene film. And after the first shoots of pepper sprout, the film can be removed.
No way, there is more sour cream.
By the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the seedlings are easily taken out of the bags and, together with a clod of soil, are transferred to the holes. This method allows you to sow seeds for seedlings not in February, as usual, but in mid-March.
Zinc deficiency manifests itself as yellowish-green spots that appear on old leaves, and then turn brown, later the leaves die off.
They do not doze off and are activated during flowering and at high humidity in the greenhouse. fight
Stepchildren went into action

Don't overfeed

By the time of transplanting into open ground, the bushes should be 25-30 cm high. The pepper bush develops better if it is not allowed to plant too deep. The root system should be as close to the ground as possible.
By the way, rot will inevitably occur if the greenhouse has high humidity and constant heat. But if the plant rots under normal conditions, then the virus is to blame. Preventive measures in this case are spraying healthy bushes with chemicals, but infected plants are also removed from the soil. Next, the earth needs to be covered with ash and loosened. At the same time, you can’t water it until it starts to crack.
Growing pepper in a greenhouse can be done in two ways. different ways: on the garden bed or in special polyethylene bags.​
Like any plant, pepper has its enemies. Representatives of flora harmful to pepper are aphids, mites, scoops, Colorado potato beetles, etc.
The seedlings are grown, now you need to think about feeding. Peppers are fed every ten days 2-3 times. The first time feeding is done when the seedlings have two leaves. And if a pick was previously carried out, then they are fed after two weeks, not earlier. To do this, use mineral fertilizers or compost, but the plant does not tolerate fresh manure. And if you want to protect the plant from diseases, then a phytosporin solution will be useful for this: 1.5 liters of water and 0.5 teaspoon of the solution. Protection is carried out along with the procedure for enriching the plant with mineral elements.

Try adding lemon juice

Tamara Georgievna VASILEVSKAYA, Brest region, Ivatsevichi district
To avoid this, spray peppers with "Kemira Lux" or "Kemira Combi" (1 g per 1 liter of water).
It is difficult with them, but necessary so as not to lose the entire crop.
I'll tell you how I got the hang of getting strong seedlings of peppers without much hassle.
They say you can't spoil porridge with butter. But it is not always the case. The more you feed peppers with slurry, the less they will yield.
Near each bush put low pegs. As it develops and forms a large number of fruits, it is tied up. The soil around the bush is regularly loosened. Pepper does not like hilling.

Growing a pepper crop is quite simple if you choose the right soil for it and apply the appropriate care. Peppers do not need complex and multi-stage care, but it is important to know their strengths and weaknesses. It is then that the harvest of this crop will give you moral satisfaction from the grown quantity, and its high quality will supply you with vitamins for the whole year.​

Growing sweet pepper requires the creation of competent beds that will allow it to grow freely, and make it easier for you to care for it. How many beds you will have and what will be their size, you determine yourself in accordance with the design of the greenhouse. It could also be a greenhouse. However, it’s not worth making them too high - it’s enough to raise the ground up to 20 cm. The shape of the raised layer can be preserved with the help of the sides, on the borders of which put wooden slats, the height of which should match the bed.
The scoop is one of the most common pepper pests. It is difficult to fight with it, since there are a large number of its varieties and the period for the release of larvae is extended for a long time.
Pepper seedlings will delight you with a bountiful harvest if hardened from time to time sunbeams, as well as aeration of the soil (weeding). Therefore, periodic loosening will not interfere.
Add hot pepper and fried garlic.
If you dream of a good harvest of peppers, I advise you not to remove the film from the plants in the garden at all. But on one condition - air the peppers daily at the hottest time of the day.

If the plants lack iron, then on carbonate, "phosphated" or over-limed soils, young peppers change color, the tissues between the green veins turn yellow or white, becoming as if reticulated.

• It was early autumn in some year. It's freezing outside - and my peppers are still full of peppers. I chose the strongest plants and transplanted them into pots. I left the largest peppers on the bushes, and pinched off the small ones and the flowers. And for some time I had fresh bell peppers for salads, although not as juicy as from a real garden.
• Goes on a walk, burns the plant, surprising with tops, not fruits.

Watering
Sweet pepper. Tips for care and cultivation

The length of the bed of bell pepper can be from the beginning to the end of the greenhouse, but it is better to make the width such that two bushes fit on it. So access to each bush will be optimal. The very same distance between plants should ideally be 30 cm, which will ensure freedom of ripening.

Aphids and the Colorado potato beetle can harm the plant less, however, a high degree of infestation with these pests leads to slower growth and deformation of the fruit. Moreover, affected plants become a place for the spread of fungal and viral diseases.

On the sixtieth day, seedlings can already be planted in the ground. The ideal time for planting pepper seedlings in open ground is the first half of June, because by this period the danger of frost is reduced to almost nothing.

Pepper pests

Boil rice in a bag. the chicken egg also removes bitterness .. Carefully lower the raw (without shell) on a spoon with a wire rack, boil and remove ...
At the same time, the soil in the beds must be loosened shallowly - no more than 5 cm, which will provide air access to the root system.

Sick plants need a shower from a solution with "Kemira Combi" or "Kemira Lux" (1 g per 1 liter of water).
This is the most dangerous pest, literally sucking juice from plants. Chemical methods struggle - treatment with preparations "Iskra", "Commander" and others according to the instructions and only before the start of fruiting.

When I noticed that the bushes began to shed their leaves, slowed down in development (in December-January), let them "sleep", watered infrequently - just so as not to dry out. And the numbers of February 15-17 decided to wake them up.
Yu.P. ANANEV, Samara

The method of planting sweet peppers in polyethylene containers creates individual, comfortable conditions for the plant. In this case, you will not need beds, and there will be a constant temperature inside the bag. This will have a positive effect on the crop, as the seedlings will not experience daily temperature changes. This method of growing bell pepper is relevant if it is not possible to make fertile soil in the entire greenhouse for some reason.
In order to avoid infection of pepper with pests, you should not miss the time of their first appearance. Treat the plant immediately if you notice them. After all, only healthy seedlings of pepper guarantee a good harvest.
It is necessary to plant a plant in one row, keep the distance between plants - 30 - 40 cm, and between rows - 45 - 60 cm. It is undesirable to plant sweet pepper in hot weather, this will cause the leaves to dry out and the plant will wither.

Oh, I don’t know, I’m probably burning up not to help ... sorry for the borscht.
I usually water peppers from a watering can once every 10 days at the rate of 10 liters per 1 square meter. I take warm water for irrigation - at least 20-25 degrees. And if you overmoisten the soil, you won’t have to wait long for pepper diseases. Powdery mildew will appear, and the death of plants is inevitable. However, the lack of moisture leads to the fall of the ovary. Remember this!​

What's going on, "sick"?

I fed it with micronutrient fertilizers and a growth stimulator, my husband hung a fluorescent lamp over them, and the peppers came to life. A few days later stepchildren appeared on each bush. I let them grow up to 10 centimeters, then cut them off and put them in water. After a week and a half, roots appeared. While they were growing up, I prepared "apartments" for them - seedling pots. I transplanted the "juveniles" into the ground, covered them with plastic bags to keep them warmer. In April-May, the bags were removed for the day. Little by little I fed it with mineral fertilizers, and when the snow melted in the country house and it became possible to get to a pile of mullein, I brought it home a little, poured it with a solution as well.

Bush formation

Atmospheric precipitation cannot in any way affect the frequency of irrigation. They only help the grower by reducing the irrigation rate. An exception may be torrential or heavy rains, which provide as much moisture as when watering.

By the way, for the first time this vitamin was isolated from pepper fruits. Pepper - comes from the tropics, but even in our climatic conditions it feels at home thanks to timely and proper care.

Summer residents should remember that sweet pepper, although unpretentious, can hardly tolerate transplants. Therefore, it is necessary to place its seedlings in greenhouse conditions directly in peat pots. This planting system is ideal as you won't disturb the plant's root system and create additional fertilizer when the peat begins to decompose.​

Pepper contains a large amount of ascorbic acid and vitamin A. According to the content of vitamin C, it is ahead of both lemon and blackcurrant.

Borsch can no longer help. An egg, rice is all useless, the only way out is to eat it like that, if you can, of course.

Oleg Fedorovich KRASNOV, Mogilev

If peppers build up a powerful leaf mass, and there are few ovaries, this indicates an excess of nitrogen.

A lot is also bad

It also sucks the juice from pepper leaves. The method of struggle is spraying with the Iskra-Bio preparation when pests appear before fruiting. In any phase of pepper development, treatment with an infusion of garlic or onion and dandelion leaves is also effective (one glass of finely chopped garlic or onion and dandelion leaves is diluted in 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of liquid soap are added, the plants are filtered and sprayed).

You should have seen what a beautiful seedling I had by the time it was planted in the ground! And she gave more harvest than usual.

Reappearing stepchildren and flowers that form in the lower part of the plant before its first branching are constantly cut off. They delay the development of the upper part of the bush, on which the main formation of fruits occurs.

Sprinkler irrigation is not performed.

Pepper bed

If it turns out that your pepper does not grow in special pots, it should be planted along with a clod of earth that forms around its roots. At the same time, 1.5 liters of water must first be poured into the hole. Then the hole must be covered with dry earth. Ideally, sprinkle mulch on top.

The presence of a substance called "rutin" has a beneficial effect on the human blood vessel system.

You don't have to dive

Pinching, that is, pinching the top and removing extra flowers on peppers of varieties such as New Gogoshary, Golden Jubilee, gold medal, A gift from Moldova is made as soon as 7-10 fruits are tied, and on Kolobok - 12-15. Then each pepper will receive in full the heat, light, and nutrients "owed" to it. If you leave the entire ovary, then almost 80 percent of it will go to waste in the fall, since the fruits will not be able to ripen. Extra branches are also removed - they also take a lot of nutrition from the plant.

The best watering time is in the morning. If it was cold at night, then water it with warm water. If the nights are warm, then in the evening they are watered with warm water settled in a barrel at the rate of 10 liters (bucket) per 15-20 bushes on clay and heavy loamy soils and 1 liter each on sandy and sandy soils. Watered only after loosening and very carefully, from a ladle. First, on the one hand, in order to avoid the formation of a crust around the entire bush, and the next day, after loosening the side of the bush watered the day before, on the other hand. This contributes to the uniform development of the root system.

Pepper succeeds in sunny beds, lags behind in growth in the shade, does not give a crop.

There is one care for pepper in the greenhouse, and another in the open field. If the climatic conditions are such that you can afford to grow a rich crop outdoors, then a greenhouse is not necessary. In any case, even in open ground, some summer residents cover seedlings with non-woven material, which they stretch over arcs. If it is less than +15 degrees outside, it makes sense to cover the impromptu greenhouse with a film so that the condensate does not fall on the plants.

If you take sweet pepper with food every day, it will improve hair growth, vision, skin.

Constant access to sunlight will allow the plant to develop and grow normally. In order for the pepper to develop well, provide additional illumination, provide seedlings with a 12-hour day.

Let's get rid of dampness

You can add a spoonful of sugar ...

There is an unusual way to get more squat and strong seedlings of peppers. It was demonstrated by graduates of the Hadlow Agricultural College at the Chelsea flower show in the UK.​

Small leaves of a dark green color indicate a supersaturation with potassium.
An excess of nitrogen fertilizers can lead to the reproduction of aphids and the accumulation of large doses of nitrates in pepper fruits.

Picking fruits

It is best to keep peppers under lutrasil all summer. In any weather, it maintains an ideal microclimate in the greenhouse, saves from heat and cold, and does not allow the soil to dry out.

Top dressing

The best predecessors for pepper are cucumber, peas, beans, beans, cabbage, table root vegetables. Do not place pepper after potatoes and tomatoes. Soil cultivation for growing pepper begins in the fall, immediately after harvesting the previous crop. The site is freed from plant residues, manure or compost is applied at the rate of one bucket per square meter. m with the addition of 20-30 g of superphosphate. They dig to a depth of 20-25 cm.

Only those plants that have reached the age of 60 days can be in the open ground. It should be planted at a distance of 40-50 cm. Otherwise, the bushes will be crowded.

The plant does not tolerate strong winds or drafts, you can not plant it in partial shade. Under such conditions, it will stretch in length, which will interfere with the normal development and fruiting of the plant.

Is it worth it now to clean the pepper?

Misha Chaikin

I'm afraid that already

Hedgehog

It turned out that if you gently run a cardboard or hand back and forth over the plants (no more than 20 times a day), the plants will grow squat and strong. The method is called "light touch". Its "authors" believe that when irritated by touch, ethylene gas is released from the leaves, which stops the growth of plants. This method is effective for seedlings of flowers and vegetables.​

VinOlga

Sparing no water, pour over the peppers and feed them with ammophos - 15 - 20 g per 10 liters of water.
Slugs
The first fruits of pepper are not removed until they reach technical ripeness. Excessive injury to the bush affects its fruiting. The collection of immature fruits, the stalks of which do not come off well (the ripe fruit is easily removed), can damage the stem or part of it, on which by this time a lot of ovaries have formed that can grow into large fleshy fruits in 2-3 weeks.

Tatiana Artsivenko

It gets cold - cover

It's me

Two weeks after planting in the ground, the first top dressing is carried out (one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate per 10 liters of water, one liter for each bush). The second top dressing - during the period of mass flowering: one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, one matchbox of superphosphate and one teaspoon of potassium salt or potassium sulfate. All this is dissolved in 10 liters of water and watered 1 liter under a bush. The third top dressing is given when the fruits on the first branch have reached technical ripeness, at the rate of two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate and two teaspoons of potassium salt or potassium sulfate.
In the spring, as soon as the soil ripens and stops smearing, they start digging. If organic fertilizers have not been applied since autumn, then the soil is fertilized (a glass of ash per bucket of humus). They dig to a shallower depth than in autumn, carefully choosing weeds and pest larvae (beetles, wireworms, etc.).

Urgently! I cooked borscht, and the bell pepper turned out to be bitter. how to remove bitterness? dilute the broth late. thanks in advance

Marina

Proper cultivation of bell peppers in film greenhouses will allow you to consistently harvest a good harvest from each bush of any variety. What needs to be done for this? Water in time, loosen the soil, tie up in time, remove weeds, fertilize and pinch.

Yury Dolgoruky

Pepper contains K, Na, Fe, Zn, Mg, I and is a necessary component for baldness, manifestations of osteoporosis, and a low level of the body's immune defense.

Super Man

If you want to grow a bountiful crop of pepper, then you must also consider that this plant needs warm soil. To do this, treat the beds and raise them to a level of 40 to 70 cm. Timely weeding will help the pepper develop faster.

Dr. House

Add everything that you have been advised here. and throw it away because it will already be garbage

Elena Egorova

Divide and conquer!

Kibalchish

An excess of calcium is indicated by poorly developing apical buds.

Such a strange

Slugs eat the leaves and damage the fruit. Pollination of the soil with ground hot pepper or dry mustard (1 teaspoon per square meter) helps to fight them. In pest control, foliar fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (10 g per 10 liters of water) and ventilation of greenhouses are also good.

Kandelo

The main fruit formation occurs from the end of July - the beginning of August. Therefore, properly and timely prepare the plant for mass fruiting. August is the most favorable month for mass fruit formation. From the first fruits of pepper, which were formed back in June-July, high-quality seeds are obtained for future sowing. Pepper can not be removed, if possible until October 15th. However, pepper does not tolerate frosts on the soil.

TATYANA

Closer to autumn, pepper plants should be protected from the first frosts.

Palusik and Janusik

If the seedlings are stunted after top dressing, foliar top dressing with urea is done every morning or evening for a week at the rate of two to three teaspoons per 10 liters of water. If it is not possible to feed daily, then one or two feedings are carried out at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water from a sprayer or from a watering can with a net.

The beds are made during spring digging. On heavy, cold soils, they must be high in order to warm up well and provide water and air conditions.