Turnkey home construction calculator. How to calculate the cost of building a house from foam concrete blocks

Material calculation

10:0,0,0,220;0,290,220,220;290,290,220,0;290,0,0,0|5:165,165,0,220;0,165,95,95;165,290,144,144|1134:214,144|1334:140,31;140,106|2255:0,124|2155:63,0;63,220;205,220|2422:290,47;290,90|1934:205,-20

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Calculation of the cost of work

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An example of a layout of 8x6 m for calculation	Structural scheme
		1. Gas silicate block d=400mm; 2. Vinyl siding; 4. Air gap d=20-50mm; 5. Reinforced concrete screed h=200mm; 6. Extrusion insulation d=30-50mm; 7. Floor beams d=150-250mm; 8. Roof made of corrugated board; 9. Foundation tape block h=1.8m;

Aerated concrete masonry with a facade of siding panels

When installing aerated concrete block walls, it is necessary to link many restrictions and technological issues, otherwise, instead of reducing the cost of thermal insulation, you can get very cold, wet, and sometimes emergency walls.

• It is necessary to approach the installation of the initial row of gas silicate blocks quite meticulously, checking the verticality and horizontality of the wall using the level during operation.
• By technical description, it is desirable to lay reinforcement every 4-5 rows of masonry, as well as platforms for supporting jumpers and platforms under window openings.
• A slightly protruding or non-standard gas silicate block must be sharpened with a spatula to the required level at its location.
• Gas silicate blocks can be planed, sawn with a wood saw, milled, chiselled, drilled right at the construction site.
• To install reinforcing bars, grooves with dimensions of 30x30 cm are cut along the top of the masonry, which, when the reinforcement is laid, are filled with an adhesive solution for aerated concrete blocks.
• On the upper row of gas silicate blocks, in a wooden formwork, a reinforced concrete pour is made, 200 mm thick. On the outside, the concrete belt is thermally insulated with a 5 cm layer of extruded foam.

The construction of the wall structure is carried out in an approximate way:

• First, the bearing masonry is laid out from gas silicate blocks.
• Taking into account the formation of a ventilated gap, steel profiles or pine bars are attached to the outer surface of the wall, pre-treated with a protective solution, 3-4 cm thick, with an interval of 40-50 cm.
• The front layer of plastic siding is attached to the completed guides.

siding trim

Due to the fact that PVC siding varies greatly in size with changes in temperature, it is necessary to use a loose fit of vinyl sheets.

It is important to know that a PVC siding profile can function for quite a long time and have a beautiful exterior, only if the installation rules are strictly observed.

PVC siding does not spread fire, is resistant to impact, chemical, weather aggression, does not rot.

The vinyl profile in case of fire only slowly melts, igniting when heated to more than 390 ° C (moreover, the tree is already at 230-260 ° C), quickly extinguishing when the source of the flame is removed, and the amount of carcinogenic emissions is no more significant than when smoldering wooden structures.

Today, PVC siding dealers (Gentek, Ortho, Snowbird, AltaProfil, FineBer, Mitten, Vytec, Holzplast, Tecos, Docke, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Nordside) are announcing a wide range of colors and shades to give every home a unique look.

Typical aspects of installing plastic siding:

• Siding profiles are mounted in such a way that they can move freely in the longitudinal direction, for this reason, do not overtighten the screws in the mounting slots.
• To ensure free expansion or contraction of PVC siding, it is important to leave gaps, up to 10 mm, at the joints plastic panel and additional details (H-profile, outer corner, inner corner, casing, etc.), as well as at the points of passage of external networks (cables, brackets, wires, pipes).
• When attaching the next siding panel, snap it onto the trailing lug with the previous profile and, without pulling, secure with screws.
• It is recommended to screw self-tapping screws or drive nails into plastic siding into the center of ready-made fastening grooves, so as not to interfere with thermal expansion and screeds and, accordingly, not cause wave-like bending of the PVC material.
• PVC profiles are fastened from the bottom to the top, and, first, a hidden initial profile is placed.
• It is more correct to install decorative panels, starting from the back of the building, moving towards the facade, while each subsequent strip of siding should overlap the one already installed in this row, by about an inch - this method allows you to mask the joints, for the same, the resulting joints, for connecting rows should be spaced horizontally.

prefabricated foundation

Reinforced concrete blocks are a classic building component, which makes it possible to make the foundation of a cottage in a short time.

When performing a block foundation on solid and dry subbases, it is permissible to lay concrete blocks directly on the sand-leveled base of the construction site.

Reinforced concrete blocks are produced in the following types: "FBV" - with a cutout, "FBS" - solid, "FBP" - hollow. Typically, building blocks are made with a vertical size of up to 650 mm, the horizontal size varies within 0.9-2.4 m (FBS-9 - FBS-24), the transverse size is 0.3-0.4-0.5-0.6 m.

The use of one or another type of FBS block follows from the section of the load-bearing walls of the house. For individual construction, a reinforced concrete block width of 0.30 or 0.40 m is acceptable. The thickness of prefabricated block foundations can be narrower than the facade masonry of the cottage walls, since they have a much greater load capacity.

In order to expand the area on which the base of the foundation rests, in order to thereby reduce further movements of the continental layer, FBS - blocks should be mounted on pre-prepared FL blocks.

For lands with low groundwater rise, it is possible to install foundation blocks without reinforcing them, however, a concrete screed 100-200 mm high with a reinforcing mesh should be arranged above and below them.

Today, the foundation of prefabricated FBS-elements, in terms of a range of essential parameters, among which: resistance to subbase subbase and cost, is inferior to its counterpart - a monoconcrete foundation.

The practice of buying heavy blocks to complete the foundation is usually motivated by the all-season work or tight deadlines.

When the characteristics of the soil are unknown, for peace of mind, instead of ready-made pillows, perform a single reinforced concrete screed.

• The installation of pillow blocks is carried out from the corner of the foundation, while first of all they are placed under the facade walls, and only then for the intra-house ones.
• On a pillow (about 15 cm) of coarse sand or laid out pillow blocks in a checkerboard pattern, foundation blocks are placed, which are joined with a sand-cement mixture.
• The laying of finished blocks is carried out relative to the marking lines, along the walls diverging at right angles, guided by the electronic theodolite. Prefabricated concrete sides are placed by a loader on a plastic layer of cement mortar.
• Laying should begin with laying the extreme blocks at the crosshairs of the axes and the house. The placement of wall blocks should be started only after checking the position of the lighthouse blocks in plan and in height.
• The geometry in the plan is verified by measuring the length of the parts of the house and diagonal distances, and the vertical position is measured by a level or hose level.
• Holes for introducing centralized networks into the technical floor are carried out by making a gap between the blocks, followed by concrete embedding.

Covering from wooden beams

In suburban construction, wooden-beamed floors are traditionally in demand, due to the availability and ease of installation.

Since ancient times, coniferous trees have been used for beams: larch, spruce, pine, with a moisture content of 14 percent. It should be noted that the most durable lag is a beam with a sectional proportion of seven to five, for example, 0.14x0.10 m.

When calculating lumber for flooring, it is necessary to be guided by calculations that correlate the dimensions of the beam from the length of the span between the supports and the load; or you can start from the simplified rule that the height of the beam should be about 0.042 of the floor length, and the thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm, with a load of 150 kgf / sq.m and a laying step of lag 50 - 100 cm.

For a suitable replacement of bars of a given size, boards fastened with screws can be used, while maintaining the total size.

Some rules for installing a wooden beam floor:

• The ends of the beams are sawn down at an angle of 60-70 °, coated with an antiseptic (Teknos, Aquatex, Tikkurila, KSD, Cofadex, Pinotex, Holzplast, Kartotsid, Senezh, Biofa, Biosept, Tex, Dulux) and covered with roofing paper, leaving the end cut open to prevent decay, which can occur during the diffusion of moisture in the niche of a stone wall.
• Beam beams are installed in the following order: first, the first and last, and then, with water level control, intermediate ones. The bars should rest on the wall structure no shorter than 0.15-0.20 m.
• Traditionally, in stone buildings, the end parts of the beams are located in masonry openings in which moisture condenses, for this reason, between the brick and the end parts of the beams, air is left for ventilation, and with a significant length of the groove, a thermal insert is also placed.
• in wooden log cabins, the edges of the log are hemmed in the form of a “frying pan”, and then they are driven into the prepared opening of the upper log to the entire depth of the wall log.
• Logs are moved away from the wall no closer than 5 centimeters, and the indent between the bars and the smoke channel should be more than 400 mm.

The covering of the last floor is thermally insulated with the implementation of a vapor-tight membrane under the insulation, the basement floor is insulated with the placement of a vapor-tight layer above the insulation, and the interfloor ceiling is not insulated.

If the problem of the load capacity of wooden interlevel ceilings is mainly solved by an ordinary increment in the size of the lag and their number, then with fire protection and acoustic insulation the situation looks more complicated.

A possible method for improving the fire-retardant and acoustic properties of wooden floors is as follows:

• To the bottom of the beams, at 90 ° to them, on spring clamps, after 0.30-0.40 m, galvanized guides are installed - a crate, on which a plasterboard ceiling is attached from below.
• A fiberglass fabric is laid on the upper surface of the crate made and attached to the beams with brackets, on which slab basalt fiber insulation (Isover, Knauf, Izomin, Ursa, Rockwool, Izorok) is tightly laid out, with a layer of 5 cm, with a rise on the vertical sides of the beams.
• In the rooms of the next floor, sheets of plywood (16 ÷ 25 mm) are nailed to the beams, then a rigid mineral fiber sound absorber (25 ÷ 30 mm), and a layer of plywood of the subfloor is laid out again.

Roof made of profiled metal

Roofing material is mounted on a solid frame, made up of rafters and sheathing.

In the construction of private housing construction, a two- or three-span system is traditionally designed with medium load-bearing walls and inclined roof trusses.

The supporting ends of the rafter legs are placed on a Mauerlat beam measuring 100x100-150x150 mm; the distance between the rafters is usually set within 600-900 mm with a rafter size of 50x150-100x150 mm.

The main advantages of a corrugated roof, in comparison with a metal tile, are expressed in the speed of installation and low price.

The corrugated material is trapezoid-shaped stamped iron sheets with a polymeric color coating, which are produced under the brands, for example, HC44, H60, H57, MP-35, H44, C-21, B-45, HC18, HC35, where the numbers determine the height wave profile.

For roofing purposes, corrugated board with a profile span of at least 2 cm is used to create the required rigidity and save battens. The working angle to the roof horizon is assumed to be at least 8 degrees.

Standard installation procedure for profiled steel corrugated sheets:

• When arranging insulated attic rooms, a roof based on profiled iron corrugated sheets, like every other metal-rolled roofing, requires an under-roofing waterproof membrane, such as: Yutavek 115.135, Tyvek, TechnoNIKOL, Izospan, Stroizol SD130, which prevents condensed water vapor from falling onto the inter-rafter heat insulator.
• The moisture-proof film is spread in horizontal layers, from bottom to top, with an inter-strip overlap of 100-150 mm and a deflection between the rafters of about 2 cm, with further sealing of the seam line with adhesive tape.
• The height of the profiled sheet is made according to the cross section of the pitched surface, with the addition of 20 ÷ 30 centimeters, taking into account the overhang, in order to remove unwanted transverse joints.
• The distance between the boards of the lathing is set by the slope of the roof and the thickness of the profile relief: when the slope is steeper than 15 °, and the type of profile is NS-8-NS-25, then the spacing of the lathing is set to 0.4 meters, and for profile types NS-35÷NS- 44 - reaches 700÷1000 mm.
• In order to avoid wrapping profiled flooring sheets in squally winds, it is recommended to fasten them from the cornice line of the roof sidewall, opposite to the main direction of the wind flow.
• Corrugated fabrics are attached to the crate flooring with self-tapping screws (28÷40.Ø4.8 mm long, with rubber gaskets) through the lower wave zone, and the ridge, on the contrary, into the upper part of the wave. On the eaves, screwing is done on all profile concavities, and the consumption of self-tapping screws is considered to be 6-8 units per 1 m² of roof.
• Vertical overlap of profiled corrugated sheets must be performed in one corrugation, but when the roof slope is up to 11-12 degrees - in 2 waves.

Here we will help you figure out how much it costs to build your dream home.
The article provides an algorithm for calculating the approximate cost of construction brick house(prices of 2016), as well as a calculator for calculating the cost of a frame house.

Ready-made project for calculating the total cost of the house

Purchase and preparation of land

Selection and purchase of a plot

It will depend on many factors:

• Remoteness from a large city with a developed infrastructure;
• Availability of communications on the site;
• Distance from the central highway;
• The quality of access roads;
• The relief of the site;
• The presence of nearby forests, ponds and other valuable recreational facilities;
• The number of neighbors.

Since there are many factors affecting the final cost of the site, there is no need to talk about any specific figure. For reference, let's take the average cost of a plot of six acres, located at a distance of 70-100 km from the Moscow Ring Road - 20-30 thousand dollars.

Preparation of land for construction

If you got a plot in an open field, without communications connected to it and a leveled surface, then the corresponding costs will be significant. They will include:

• Payment for the rental of equipment with workers who will clear and level the site (about 1400–1600 r / shift);
• Payment for the services of a topographer who will plan the drainage of water, design the drainage of the site, outline best options placement of a house and outbuildings on it (300–500 r / hundredth);
• Payment for drilling equipment to determine the quality and level of groundwater, to form a system of wells on the site (on average 1900 r / shift, 3000 r / linear m);
• Bringing communications to the site (from 150 thousand rubles to 1.5 million rubles, subject to the involvement of specialists).

In the event that the site already had an owner who prepared it for construction, the cost of land development will be minimal.

Home construction

Creating a house project

There are several approaches when choosing and buying a residential building project:

Foundation construction

First of all, it is necessary to determine the type of foundation being built. There are several of them today:

• columnar;
• tape;
• slab;
• pile.

Each of these types of foundation has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Accordingly, their prices will also differ.

A columnar foundation is an engineering structure represented by pillars buried to a calculated depth, the upper part of which is interconnected by rand beams.

The cost of the columnar foundation will be up to 15% of the total cost of construction.

A strip foundation is an engineering structure represented by monolithic concrete or reinforced concrete blocks, which are located at the base of all the supporting structures of the planned house.

The cost of a strip foundation is, as a rule, from 30% of the cost of the entire house.
The slab foundation is a monolithic concrete or reinforced concrete slab laid under the entire base of the building. The cost of a slab foundation can be approximately calculated at the rate of 2000 r / m2 (with a slab thickness of 25 cm).

The pile foundation consists of a system of deepened piles interconnected by rand beams. The construction of a pile foundation requires the involvement of special equipment, a large number of workers, and therefore is the most expensive of all types of foundations.

Walling

First of all, you need to decide for yourself what kind of house you plan to build:

Peculiarities wooden house are environmentally friendly and economical. Wooden house erected quickly and at the lowest cost. Since wood is a fairly light material, you can save on the foundation and get by with columnar instead of tape. The walls of a wooden house, made of timber, allow air to pass through, i.e. the house “breathes”.

A wooden house heats up quickly and retains heat well, and the resinous aroma of the room has a beneficial effect on nervous system person. Such houses can be used not only for suburban construction, but also for permanent residence.

A wooden house is built from glued laminated timber or. The advantage of a solid bar is its ideal roundness and evenness of the surface, which allows you to fit the logs as tightly as possible on top of each other.

The advantage of glued laminated timber is its cost-effectiveness, resistance to ignition, lack of deformation and cracking. The wall, made of glued beams, practically does not shrink.
Brick houses make up more than 70% of all private buildings.

Their main advantage is durability and a small daily temperature fluctuation inside the house. However, such a house, unlike a wooden one, will be distinguished by a high price, longer heating and will require exterior decoration.

It will also not work to save on the foundation, because brick is a rather heavy material, and the columnar foundation will not withstand it. If a one-story house can be built on a strip foundation, then a two-story house requires a slab foundation.

Private house, made of foam blocks, in terms of its characteristics is not inferior to brick, but has a number of advantages over it. The use of foam blocks instead of bricks facilitates the construction of the building. The porous structure of foam blocks improves the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls. In addition, the use of foam blocks instead of bricks can significantly reduce the cost of construction.

Foam blocks for the construction of the same number of walls will require less, and their price is lower.

Recently, the construction of monolithic blocks has been widely developed. Its advantages: relative ease of construction (20% lighter than brick), good heat and sound insulation, the possibility of seamless wall construction. The disadvantage is the high cost of construction.

And, finally, attached to the wooden frame of the house. Their advantage is: low price, speed of construction, ease of construction, good thermal insulation properties. Disadvantages - low structural strength, as well as fragility (2-3 times less than that of a brick house).

Everyone is free. For suburban construction are increasingly preferred frame technologies, and in most cases they are built of brick. That is why we will dwell in more detail on the cost of building frame and brick houses.

How much does a house project cost? We have absolutely free, when ordering construction work!

Required fields

-Type of foundation- Depending on the total weight of the house, various foundation designs are used. The heavier the structure, the more massive the foundation should be. Accordingly, more material will go into its construction, which will increase the cost of the house. .
-Type of foam blocks -cost of a house from foam blocks depends on the size of the stones, their properties and characteristics.
- Floor material- it can be a reinforced concrete monolith or wooden beams. The choice between concrete and wood is always yours.
- Type of roof covering- tiles or elastic roofing materials. In addition, you should decide on the drainage system and insulation.
-Facade- an estimate for the construction of a house is drawn up taking into account what materials and methods of their installation will be used for the facade. The presence and thickness of insulation is also taken into account.
-Interior decoration- the calculation is carried out taking into account materials for the construction of internal partitions (foam block, drywall or brick), as well as for finishing walls and ceilings.
-Engineering facilities- the price includes the cost of materials for the installation of power supply, water supply and gas supply.
-Installation of windows and doors- the final cost depends on the number of windows and doors, as well as on the type of materials used for their manufacture.

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Our construction calculator will calculate how much it costs to build a house. Based on the results, an estimate is made for the construction of a house. If you don't know how to build a house for a million - use our calculator and you will see that the cost of building a house can be no more than 1 million rubles.