Is it possible to plant a small chrysanthemum cuttings. Chrysanthemum cuttings are the best way to propagate. The process of propagation of chrysanthemum cuttings in autumn and spring

Cuttings are one of the most effective ways to propagate garden chrysanthemums. The main advantage of the method is that in this way it is possible to obtain planting material even from rare spherical, large flowers taken from a bouquet. Varietal characteristics are preserved in 100% of cases, which cannot be said about sowing seeds. Learn how to properly propagate garden or bouquet chrysanthemums with cuttings at home, how to select and cut a flower.

All varieties of the flower are propagated in several ways: by seeds, dividing the bush, layering and cuttings. All options are quite simple, knowing a few nuances, even someone who has never encountered the cultivation of this flower will cope with them. Amateur gardeners, for certain reasons, prefer vegetative propagation of chrysanthemums, in order to understand why, we will analyze each method.

Reproduction by seeds

If you want from your own collected seeds, be prepared for the fact that the plant most likely will not show the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. The seed purchased from a trusted company will give varietal offspring, but some of the grains may not hatch. You should not buy seeds from open containers in spontaneous markets. How to sow seeds outdoors:

• carry out a shallow digging of the area allocated for chrysanthemums;
• dig small holes (up to 5 cm deep) at a distance of 30 cm from each other;
• water each hole warm water and put 3-5 grains in it;
• sprinkle the seeds with earth and make a small greenhouse over the crops. You can insert several pegs around the perimeter and pull on transparent polyethylene;
• as soon as the first shoots appear, remove the shelter;
• periodically loosen the soil and remove weeds;
• 10 days after spitting seeds, carry out the first top dressing, flower growers use universal fertilizers such as Rainbow;
• when the seedlings grow to 8-9 cm in each hole, leave 1 or 2 of the strongest sprouts, transplant the rest to another place or share planting material with neighbors.

On a note!

Seed propagation of chrysanthemums is in demand only among breeders, amateur flower growers use it extremely rarely. The option is less reliable than vegetative methods.

It is desirable to propagate by seeds only small-flowered and annual varieties of chrysanthemums. When sown early in the spring open ground the bushes will not bloom until mid-autumn, so that the buds open in the summer, planting through seedlings should be carried out. The procedure is carried out from mid-February to early March. How to germinate chrysanthemum seeds at home:

• lay a layer of drainage on the bottom of a wide, shallow container, pour a special soil mixture for chrysanthemums into the container;
• spread the seeds on the surface of the soil in any order, but do not overdo it with the number of grains. If the varieties are annuals, sprinkle them a little with earth, and if they are perennials, lightly press them into the soil;
• spray the crops with warm water from a spray bottle, cover the container with polyethylene or glass. Periodically remove the shelter for ventilation;
• the first shoots will appear in about 10 days, transfer the containers to the lightest window sill and gradually begin to harden the seedlings. Open the window first for an hour, gradually increase the time;
• thin out sprouts at the stage of formation of 3 or 4 leaves. Before planting in open ground, seedlings are plentifully watered.

Watering at all stages of seedling development should be carried out regularly, but moderately. Do not allow waterlogging and drying of the soil, use only warm, settled water. The temperature in the room with seedlings before hardening should be about + 22-26 degrees. Top dressing with Zircon will help speed up the rooting process of chrysanthemums after picking. When using fertilizer, the temperature in the room is lowered to + 15–19 degrees. Transplanting seedlings of flowers to a permanent place is carried out after the last spring frosts.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

A chrysanthemum that has been growing in one place for more than 3 years is recommended to be planted. Carefully dig up the entire bush, it is important not to damage the root. Cut off the old lignified shoots with a sharp garden knife or secateurs, separate the young branches from the mother bush along with the roots. If there are long branches on the stems, it is better to cut them carefully. Plant each plot at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other. The procedure is carried out in late spring or in the second half of August.

Reproduction by layering

The method is suitable for indoor, as well as for garden winter-hardy varieties of chrysanthemum. Dig a small, oblong hole near the mother plant, the width and depth of the hole should correspond to the size of the bush. Gently bend the stems of the flower and fix them with pegs or staples at the bottom of the prepared pit, cover with a layer (about 25 cm) of earth, leave the bush in this form for the winter.

On a note!

On the forums, it is often advised to cover the area with buried chrysanthemum bushes, especially in cool regions. This procedure makes sense only in the case of the most heat-loving varieties.

In the spring, after the plants awaken from the buds, new, already rooted shoots will hatch. When the return frosts have passed, dig out the mother bush and separate each stalk along with the root, transplant to a new place. Do not throw away layers with a poorly developed root system, transplant them, like the rest, with proper care they will quickly catch up with stronger shoots in growth.

Propagation by cuttings

The rarest and most valuable varieties are best propagated by cuttings. The Korean variety of the flower, when bred by division, may not take root well in a new place. Cuttings of this variety take root perfectly, retain species features, and quickly adapt after planting. Flowers grown from green, non-lignified cuttings are resistant to low temperatures and diseases, are distinguished by a lush crown and rich flowering.

Gardeners divide seasonal cuttings into 2 types: early and late. The first ones are prepared in the fall, germination is carried out in the winter (from January to the end of February). Such cuttings take root for 30 days. The second ones are cut in April or May, they take root in 7 or 14 days. Experts advise to start harvesting cuttings in late autumn, or at the beginning of winter (in warm regions) when the first frosts seize the soil. Features of autumn cuttings:

• varieties with small flowers take root before large-flowered ones;
• thick, fleshy shoots take root poorly;
• flowers of the same variety, when rooting early and late cuttings, will bloom at the same time;
• the period of grafting strongly affects only the habit of the bush; higher shoots grow from early cuttings.

Some gardeners cut flower cuttings in the first half of autumn, when the bushes are just beginning to bloom. This method can be recommended solely as an experiment, because not all varieties and hybrids of the flower are ready for reproduction by this moment. Bushes grown from cuttings can bloom in spring or autumn, in rare cases on next year after planting in open ground, much depends on the variety and germination conditions.

When and how to carry out cuttings

One way of grafting involves the advance preparation of the mother bush, from which it will be possible to obtain planting material in the spring. Varieties with large buds give from 8 to 15 cuttings, and small-flowered chrysanthemum bushes - 20 or 30. The second option is to repeatedly pruning non-lignified stems from late spring to early autumn.

Preparation and storage of the mother bush

In late autumn (before the onset of persistent frosts), cut off all the stems from the selected mother bush, leave stumps about 5 cm. 10–15 days after cutting, dig up the bush and place it together with a clod of earth in a container of suitable size. Exposed roots, as well as possible voids, cover with soil or sand. Move the container to a dark, cool room.

Attention!

Make holes in the bottom of the container for the mother liquor in advance and lay a layer of drainage from 2 to 5 cm, you can use vermiculite, broken stone or expanded clay.

If you transfer the mother liquor to a greenhouse or any other warm room, the first stems will appear in a couple of weeks. If you want to keep the mother liquor until spring, transfer it to the basement or cellar; in a city apartment, any dark place will do, where the temperature does not rise above +7 degrees. In case of non-compliance temperature regime the kidneys hatch ahead of time.

If the chrysanthemum bush is stored in a damp basement, frequent watering is not necessary. Moderate moisture is permissible only when the earth dries out, overflow will lead to rotting of the roots. To start cuttings in March, the mother liquor is transferred to a warm place in mid-February, watered abundantly, young shoots will hatch in 5-10 days. How to cut and root cuttings:

• when the shoots grow by 8–10 cm, cut them so that stumps with two pairs of leaves remain on the mother liquor. Thus, there will be a basis for the emergence of new stems;
• small cuttings are best left on the bush, they are prone to decay, choose the strongest specimens;
• 2 lower leaves are cut off from the cut stems (the buds are left);
• cuttings one by one, in pairs or 3 are planted in separate containers with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 to 1.8 cm;
• in the case when a wide container is chosen for planting, the cuttings are placed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

If desired, the tip of the shoots can be dipped into Kornevin, but the practice of those who have been breeding chrysanthemums for a long time shows that they take root perfectly without additional stimulation. During autumn cuttings, the shoots should not be cut from the mother liquor, but carefully separated along with the roots, such a procedure will guarantee 100% survival rate of the cutting.

So that the cuttings do not dry out, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions for them. Cover small pots with transparent plastic cups, close the bulk container with polyethylene so that the leaves and stems do not touch the covering material. The rooting process can take from 2 to 3 weeks, the kidneys wake up already 3-4 days after planting the cuttings.

Cuttings of flowering chrysanthemums

The procedure can be carried out throughout the growing season, the process is very similar to the cultivation of roses, hydrangeas and other garden flowers. The easiest option is to cut off any branch and dig it in the garden, but such experiments do not always end well. We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings of flowering shoots in autumn:

• cut the stems into cuttings 11-16 cm long, leave those that were closer to the root;
• cut off the 2 bottom sheets;
• put the resulting stems in a jar or glass of transparent glass, pour settled water (fill no more than 3 cm of the container);
• add to the water a small amount of a drug that stimulates the formation of roots - Kornevin, Ribav E, Heteroaksin, Kornerost or any other;
• put the cuttings on the windowsill, shade a little from direct sunlight.

Attention!

In the process of rooting the stems, water must be added as it evaporates; it is not necessary to completely change the liquid.

The cuttings will give roots in 30-40 days, while young shoots will begin to grow. It is undesirable to leave them in the water, part of the planting material may die before spring, and only single stems will acquire powerful roots. It is better to transplant the cuttings into a separate container with soil. Using too thin shoots, as well as an opaque container, will cause the rooting process to take much longer.

Cover the transplanted cuttings with plastic cups or plastic bags, periodically moisten the soil. You can remove a kind of greenhouse when the stems are completely rooted in the ground and start growing. As soon as the temperature is above +5 degrees outside, you can begin to harden the seedlings, take them out to the balcony or open the window for 15 minutes first, gradually increase the time.

Reproduction of bouquet chrysanthemums

The flower is usually cut in October-November, but is it possible to carry out the procedure at any other time of the year if you were presented with a bouquet of gorgeous chrysanthemums of a rare, incredibly beautiful variety? It is possible, because cuttings from bouquet flowers not only take root well, but also repeat varietal characteristics. Of course, you can search the catalogs for your favorite variety, order seeds or seedlings. The search will take time and financial costs, but why, if the planting material is already at hand.

How to choose a flower and what to do with it

If the bouquet has stems with small shoots, use them first. Cuttings from such shoots take root faster and grow well. In the case when there are no such flowers, take any, but prepare as many cuttings as possible, this will increase the likelihood of obtaining planting material. It is not necessary to cut fresh stems, on the contrary, it is better to wait until the flowers begin to wither. You can not take shoots with obvious traces of diseases, there is a risk that they will not take root, and houseplants can pick up the disease.

All inflorescences, as well as the bottom of the cutting (about 4 cm) must be cut off. Remove all leaves and side branches from the remaining stem, do not cut directly at the stem, leave small stumps. Put the cutting in settled or boiled water, add a little root stimulator and an activated charcoal tablet, it will kill microorganisms that provoke the development of various putrefactive processes.

Roots will hatch in about 3-4 weeks, if they still do not appear, and the cutting has begun to rot, cut the bottom of the stem to healthy tissue, rinse the glass thoroughly, change the water and add again Activated carbon. As soon as the roots appear, the chrysanthemum should be immediately transplanted into a pot with soil. Don't worry if the stem starts to dry out, it's not a sign of spoilage.

Preparation of containers and soil

For only rooted cuttings, small pots should be chosen, they may not be deep, but they must be wide. In such a container, the chrysanthemum root will occupy a new area gradually, there will be no accumulation of excess moisture in unaffected areas of the soil, which means that the risk of decay or the appearance of pests will be minimized. It is necessary to transplant a flower into a large flowerpot when it grows well.

Attention!

When planting cuttings, do not use garden or garden soil, it may contain pest larvae and infections.

Chrysanthemums prefer loose, nutritious soil; poor, dense or heavy soil is not suitable for them. If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a special soil for chrysanthemums, prepare it yourself. Mix commercially available all-purpose potting, garden, and horticultural potting soil with perlite, sand, and coconut fiber. Adjust the amount of ingredients at your discretion, you need to get a light and loose mixture.

Planting and caring for rooted chrysanthemum

Plant the cuttings very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Pour soil into the prepared container up to half the volume, moisten it a little, place a twig in the middle and gradually cover it with earth. Lightly flatten the soil and water again with a little water. At first, it is better not to touch the chrysanthemum, cover the stalk with a jar or polyethylene, periodically moisten the ground.

A month later, seedlings can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers (a tablespoon of dry raw materials per 10 liters of water), they will activate growth. The young bush needs to select the lightest window sill; in the spring, the seedling should be shaded from the sun's rays. When the cutting takes root and actively grows, pinch the top a little, the plant will start lateral shoots, re-pruning after 2 months. At first, the chrysanthemum needs light even in winter, after planting in open ground, the flower adapts and begins to move into the dormant stage.

Chrysanthemum propagation methods

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, or by dividing the bush. Amateur flower growers often use vegetative methods.

Adult chrysanthemum bushes grow strongly and need to be divided every 2-3 years.
early spring is the easiest and effective method breeding for amateur gardeners and for those who sell plants.

The method is also widely practiced at the end of winter and early spring, when flower growers root cuttings of young shoots at home. Also available in spring and summer.

I cut chrysanthemums in autumn. I also cut chrysanthemums. I do this in late autumn - at the end of October and the beginning of November, when frosts already shackle the garden soil.

Autumn cuttings of chrysanthemums

From flowering chrysanthemums, I cut cuttings 10-15 cm long. In the same way as or, or other plants.

I put the chopped cuttings of chrysanthemums in a container of water. I pour a little water, only 2-3 cm, and be sure to add it to it. Lately I've been using Ribav E.
As the water evaporates, I only add it to the container, and do not change the water completely.
Soon, roots begin to form at the cuttings (see the title photo for chrysanthemum stem cuttings with rudiments of roots and shoots).

For a month and a half, a chrysanthemum stalk usually gives roots. And during this time, not only roots are formed in him, but also a new shoot.

My experiments with rooting cuttings of chrysanthemums

In past years, I tried to leave some of my rooted cuttings in the water until spring. At the same time, part of the plants died, and the rest of the cuttings of chrysanthemums gave powerful roots. And until the transplant into the ground, the rooted cuttings were in the water.

I tried to root chrysanthemum cuttings in both a dark plastic container and a glass one. I noticed that in a glass container, the plants took root faster.

The thinner the chrysanthemum stalk was, the longer it took root (or did not take root at all).

The lower the chrysanthemum stalk was cut to the root of the plant, the faster it gave roots.

Part of the cuttings of chrysanthemums with developed roots was planted in the ground, and part of the rooted cuttings of chrysanthemums was left in the water. I planted them in the ground with longer and more numerous roots later.

I put the container with the planted cuttings in a mini-greenhouse, placing it under the package. Over time, I remove the bag when the plants take root in the substrate and start to grow ..

This is how my rooted chrysanthemum cuttings look like now (at the beginning of April 2016).
As soon as the temperature on the balcony is more than +5 degrees in spring, I take out young plants there for a walk.

Chrysanthemums grown from rooted cuttings bloom early. Young chrysanthemum bushes grow rapidly.

Perhaps my experience of autumn cuttings of my favorite chrysanthemums will be of interest to other flower growers. I would be glad if someone tries to grow from a cutting in this way and successfully saves the chrysanthemum they like.

Valentina Odinokova (Moscow - Tver region)

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When growing chrysanthemums from seeds, a loss of their varietal characteristics is often noted. Cuttings are considered the most reliable way to reproduce valuable varieties in large quantities. This method is a kind of vegetative propagation. Popular in recent years, the Korean chrysanthemum is sometimes propagated by dividing the bush. At the same time, the percentage of its reproduction is quite low. Chrysanthemum cuttings of this species take root easily and retain all the specific features of the original plant. Thanks to this method, any interesting variety can be quickly propagated.

"Early" cuttings are those grown in winter (January-February) with short daylight hours. They take root within 1 month. "Late" cuttings obtained in April-May form roots in 1-2 weeks.

Features of propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings

The rooting of cuttings and the growth of these flowers have certain features:

• small-flowered plants take root much faster than large-flowered ones;
• varieties in which fleshy and thick shoots take root much worse;
• plants of the same variety, when grown from "early" and "late" cuttings, enter the flowering period almost simultaneously;
• cutting time strongly affects only the size of the plant (very tall stems grow from the "early" shoots).

How to propagate chrysanthemum cuttings?

The process of reproduction of chrysanthemums begins with the selection of the best adult plants of their kind, called mother liquors.

In autumn, healthy bushes with ideal inflorescences are chosen. They should not show any signs of diseases or pests. At the end of flowering, the queen cells are added dropwise in greenhouses or transplanted into boxes. Chrysanthemum bushes are left in a cool place, protected from excess moisture. Closed terraces, verandas or bright sheds are suitable for their storage. The place of storage of queen cells depends on the level of winter temperature. The ideal conditions for a period of physiological rest is between 3-5 °C. The main rule for their successful preservation is that these flowers should not be at a temperature of less than 1 ° C.

To obtain young plants with an excellent level of flowering, it is necessary to vernalize the mother liquors. For this, the plants are kept in rooms with a temperature of 1-4 °C for 3-4 weeks. The absence of such a procedure often leads to the fact that some varieties of chrysanthemums never bloom.

To obtain good planting material, mother plants are transferred to a warm, well-lit room and watered regularly. A few days later, renewal buds awaken on their roots. At the same time, root shoots begin to grow from the mother liquor. The effectiveness of cuttings depends entirely on the number of new shoots. To obtain a sufficient number of plants, mother liquors begin to prepare for cuttings as early as February. Most often, this procedure is performed in early spring.

Only those shoots that grow from the root are suitable for cuttings. That is why any "stumps", which are lignified flower stems, should be cut off. Since the development of root shoots is often uneven, with a small number of queen cells it is problematic to obtain young plants of the same age. To solve this problem, cut cuttings are stored in wet sawdust in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) for about 2 weeks. Upon receipt of a sufficient number of cuttings, they begin to root them.

How to cut chrysanthemums?

The root shoot is cut off with a sharp knife under the leaf node, when 2-3 internodes are formed on it. The resulting cuttings are planted in boxes or low pots with a fertile substrate with a neutral reaction. It is prepared from fertile soil, humus and sand, taken in a ratio of 2: 1: 0.5. The thickness of the substrate should be 3-4 cm. Calcined sand is poured on top of it. Its layer should be 2-2.5 cm. You can also use a mixture of perlite and coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This substrate has high moisture capacity and breathability.

For quick rooting of cuttings, they are treated with a solution of a root formation stimulator. To do this, use the drug "Kornevin" or alpha-naphthylacetic acid (NAA).

Cuttings are buried in the substrate to a depth of 2.5-3 cm. The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings is 18-20 °C. In the room used for rooting cuttings, it is necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate. To do this, a “dome” is made of a polyethylene film over the container, which provides the necessary air humidity.

cultivation

Caring for cuttings consists in daily spraying and regular watering. Successful rooting is evidenced by the appearance of growth on the shoot. Plants can be fed with nitrogen fertilizer. About 1 month after the rooting of the cuttings begins, a root system develops on them. After it becomes powerful enough, new plants are planted in open ground. Most often this happens in May-June.

In the event that rooted shoots cannot be planted in open ground due to the possibility of frost, they are kept in rooms with an air temperature of 8-10 ° C. Under such conditions, the "overgrowth" of the cuttings will be prevented. They are planted in a permanent place only after there is no threat of spring frosts. If it is not planned to root the cuttings immediately after cutting, then they are placed in a container with water.

Cuttings of large-flowered chrysanthemums are carried out from January to April, and small-flowered ones - from February to the end of May. Propagation of chrysanthemums in autumn involves planting rooted cuttings in late May and early summer. In this case, the early flowering of a young bush will be next year.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings - video

The excellent decorative qualities of chrysanthemums and unpretentiousness in care contribute to the widespread use of plants for decorating the local area, as well as residential, office and other premises. These attractive plants can be obtained and propagated in several ways, each of which is good in its own way.

Chrysanthemums are herbaceous or semi-shrub type plants. Depending on the cultivar, the height of chrysanthemums is 20-80 cm. The most diverse color of the inflorescence looks great against the background of dissected, serrated or simple leaves of a light or dark green hue, which are placed on the stems of the plant in the next order.

Currently, more than 100 varieties have been bred that differ in the height of the bush, the structure of the inflorescences, the color and flowering time, so it will not be difficult to choose a variety that would look great in single compositions or on an alpine hill, and you can propagate the plant you like using one of the following ways.

Chrysanthemum propagation methods

The choice of one or another method of reproduction is influenced by the varietal characteristics of the plant.

Reproduction by seeds

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by seeds collected from plants growing in the garden is more suitable for varieties with small inflorescences, since it is possible to preserve the varietal characteristics of complex hybrids presented large-flowered chrysanthemums rarely succeeds.

The time of sowing seeds is determined by the time of the beginning of flowering:

• for early flowering - sowing is carried out in late February or early March;
• for late flowering specimens - the last decade of March until mid-April.

Sowing works are reduced to the following:

• containers are treated with water with the addition of a small amount of potassium permanganate so that the water acquires a slightly pinkish tint;
• after drying, the boxes are filled with a mixture of fertile soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2:0.5:1;
• on top of a well-moistened substrate, seeds are laid out that do not need to be sprinkled with soil, since chrysanthemum seeds require light to germinate;
• the boxes are covered with glass or film to maintain the required humidity and cleaned in a bright room where the air temperature is 10-15°C;
• periodic moistening of seeds is carried out by means of a spray gun;
• after 7, less often 14 days, sprouts appear, after which the film or glass is removed;
• when 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed, the seedlings dive into a container bigger size, at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other.

In late May - early June, when the threat of frost has passed, the seedlings are planted in open ground. Plants will bloom at the end of June.

You can sow seeds not only in boxes, but also directly into the ground. For this:

• holes are prepared at a distance of 10-15 cm, in each of which 3-4 seeds are sown;
• the holes are covered with glass, which is removed to moisten the soil or when shoots appear;
• when 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed on seedlings, the seedlings are transplanted with a clod of earth to a permanent place.

Flowering of plants obtained by sowing seeds into the ground occurs in late August - early September.

Reproduction by cuttings

The preservation of the characteristics inherent in a particular plant variety occurs when chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings.

The uterine bush, suitable for cuttings, is chosen in the fall, despite the fact that cuttings are harvested in the spring. In this case, the sequence of work on preparing the bush for cuttings is as follows:

• During the flowering period, healthy plants are selected without any signs of diseases or pests;
• When the plants fade, the aerial part is cut off.
• With the onset of frost, chrysanthemums are dug up and placed in boxes, after which they are removed for the winter in a cool room where the temperature is 3-8 ° C.
• Periodically, the plant must be watered, preventing the soil from drying out.
• A month before the cutting process, the container with the plant is transferred to a well-lit and warmer room with an air temperature of 10-12°C.
• As the temperature rises, so does the amount of watering.
• After 1-2 weeks, renewal buds begin to appear, from which root growth is formed, signaling the need to start cuttings.

Failure to comply with the storage conditions of the mother bush often leads to the fact that young plants never bloom or shoots appear ahead of time.

Cuttings are produced when 4-6 leaves or 2-3 internodes are formed on the shoots:

• A cutting 8-10 cm long is cut off with a sharp knife at an angle of 45 ° C in the middle of the internode. At the same time, lignified stems that are difficult to root, and too soft shoots that are too prone to rotting, are not suitable for grafting.
• The lower part of the harvested cuttings is freed from leaves, leaving only 2 leaves on top, which must be shortened by half with scissors to avoid excessive absorption of moisture.
• The cuttings are planted in containers with pre-prepared soil, including humus, fertile soil, and sand in a ratio of 1:2:0.5. In this case, the sand layer should be about 2.5-3 cm. An alternative substrate with good air permeability and moisture capacity is a mixture of sand and perlite in a 1: 1 ratio. At the same time, it is necessary to put pebbles on the bottom of the seed container, which provides drainage conditions, since the chrysanthemum does not tolerate excess moisture.
• Before direct planting, the lower cut of the cutting is wetted in a solution that stimulates the growth of roots ("Kornevin"), after which the planting material immediately deepens by 1.5-2 cm into a moderately moistened layer of sand at an angle of 45 ° C at a distance of 5 cm from each other .
• The container is covered with glass or film to maintain the required level of humidity and placed in a bright place with an optimal temperature for rooting cuttings of 17-19 ° C.
• It remains to ensure that the soil in the container is always moderately moist, which is achieved by daily spraying.

The duration of rooting cuttings depends on the time of planting:

• Cuttings planted in January-February take root within 3-4 weeks.
• Cuttings planted in April-May take root within 1-2 weeks.

The growth that appeared on the cutting indicates the successful rooting of plants. After the appearance of new processes, the film must be removed. After 2-3 weeks after rooting, seedlings can be planted in the ground. However, when there is a threat of frost, rooted shoots are transferred to a room where the air temperature is 8-10 ° C, which will prevent the future plant from growing.

Features of propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings from a bouquet or mother bush:

• Flowering of plants of the same variety, obtained from early and late cuttings, occurs almost at the same time.
• Rooting of small-flowered chrysanthemums occurs faster than large-flowered ones, therefore it is better to cut small-flowered varieties in January-February, and large-flowered varieties in March-April.
• The height of chrysanthemums obtained from early cuttings is significantly higher than plants obtained from later cuttings.
• With an insufficient amount of mother material, many young plants of the same age can be obtained. To do this, the cuttings, harvested as the shoots grow, are packed in wet sawdust and stored on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. After receiving the required number of cuttings, they proceed to mass rooting. However, it is advisable to store the cuttings in the refrigerator for no more than 2 weeks.

Harvesting and subsequent rooting of cuttings is carried out not only in spring, but also in summer and autumn. However, they will still have to be planted in the ground in the spring of next year, although the flowering of chrysanthemums rooted in summer and autumn, the next year, is ahead of the beginning of flowering of chrysanthemums obtained from spring cuttings.

Regarding chrysanthemums from a bouquet, reproduction is carried out in a similar way.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The simplest and least time-consuming method of propagating chrysanthemums is dividing the bush.


In the spring, when the bush is covered with young shoots, it's time to start propagating the flower. For this:

• The bush is dug in from all sides and carefully pulled out with a clod of earth so as not to damage the roots.
• The earth is gently shaken or washed off with a stream of water.
• With a sharp knife, the bush is divided into several parts so that a separate part has roots and 3-4 shoots.
• Within 30 minutes, the roots of the obtained parts are treated in a weak manganese solution.
• Delenki are planted in holes prepared in advance, pressing the ground around the flower to avoid the formation of voids.
• Water and protect the seedling from sunlight by shading the bush with branches.

The division of a chrysanthemum into several bushes contributes not only to reproduction, but also to the rejuvenation of the plant, because if a bush grows without a transplant for more than 3-4 years, then the flowers become smaller, and the plant becomes more susceptible to chronic diseases.

Reproduction by layering

With regard to winter-hardy varieties or home chrysanthemum, reproduction is carried out by digging the stems as follows:

• In autumn, a groove is dug near the bush, the width and depth of which correspond to the height and width of the bush.
• The stems of the plant are laid on the bottom of the trench and pinned with a bracket.
• A layer of 15-20 cm of loose earth is poured over the plant and left for the winter.

In the spring, young shoots with their own root system will hatch from the buds. When the frosts recede, it is necessary to rake the chrysanthemum and cut the stems into pieces so that each part contains roots, and then plant the resulting shoots in a permanent place.

Planting planting material in the ground

The abundance of flowering of the future plant largely depends not only on the variety, but also on the conditions of its growth.

Location selection

For planting a plant on the street, a windless place with midday shading is suitable, since the inflorescences become smaller in the shade, and in the conditions of constant being under direct sunbeams- quickly fade, leaves - turn yellow and fall off.

An elevated area will avoid stagnant water during a rainy period or when groundwater is close to groundwater, since the roots of the chrysanthemum are parallel to the surface.

For room chrysanthemum diffused light is needed. To achieve the effect of diffused light, a fine mesh or gauze fixed on the window will allow.

Soil preparation

For the full development and abundant flowering of chrysanthemums, sandy or loamy soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is suitable, which must be dug up a month before planting, remove all weeds and apply bird droppings or humus as fertilizer.

Planting process

Planting plants in the ground is carried out in cloudy weather, or early in the morning or late in the evening on a sunny day, since the direct rays of the sun have a detrimental effect on young plants.

Landing planting material in the ground is reduced to the following work:

• Dig a hole about 40 cm deep under each plant at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.
• Pebbles, broken bricks or other materials that play the role of a drainage system are laid at the bottom of the holes.
• On top of the arranged drainage, fertile soil is poured, mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1.
• The seedling is lowered into the hole, deepening by 4-5 cm and compacting the ground around the flower to avoid the formation of air pockets.

For the favorable development of the plant, constant watering, periodic loosening of the soil and fertilization, as well as the timely removal of side shoots are necessary.

Plant decoration

For the formation of a bush of the correct form and the formation of flowers in relation to varietal characteristics, the tops of the central buds and lateral shoots of plants must be pinched in a timely manner.

For large-flowered varieties, pinch the top of the central shoot with the appearance of 8 leaves, after which lateral shoots develop, of which 2-3 strong ones are left, and the rest are removed. Stepping is done as needed 1-2 times a week to form one large flower on each stem.

For small-flowered plants, the top is pinched with the appearance of 4-6 leaves, after which new shoots are formed, the pinching of which is carried out in the presence of 8 or more leaves. After repeated pinching, many new shoots appear, as a result of which the chrysanthemum bush acquires splendor.

Periodic stepchildren affect not only the formation of the bush, but also the development of the plant as a whole, since stepchildren only draw a large amount of nutrients from the bush.

Thus, the reproduction of chrysanthemums can be done not only in the presence of a bush growing in the garden, but also from a donated bouquet, and the whole process is more clearly shown in the video - reproduction of chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemums are a common garden crop, second only to roses in popularity. Many manage to successfully grow these magnificent, but still the predominant method of their reproduction is vegetative, including cuttings of chrysanthemums and dividing the bush. Both options have a high survival rate and allow you to save the varietal characteristics of the mother plant and are perfect for purchased Dutch and Korean chrysanthemums.

How to plant a chrysanthemum by dividing a bush

Division is the second most popular way to grow chrysanthemum after cuttings. It is desirable to divide spray chrysanthemums every 3 years. If this is not done, flowering will not be plentiful and weak. Before planting chrysanthemums by dividing the bush, the plant must be dug up, divided together with the roots into several parts, poured soil from the roots (if it is sandy) or washed off with water and planted. The number of planting units that can be obtained from one plant depends on its age and characteristics of the variety. On average, a bush, which is 3 years old, gives 5-6 strong, healthy divisions.

As a rule, nurseries sell plants propagated by cuttings and division, since most varieties of chrysanthemums are hybrids that are not so easy to grow from seeds.

During the season, the division of the bush can be carried out at any time, even during the flowering period, if necessary. But it is best in June, when young shoots are actively developing. Green sprouts of chrysanthemums very quickly release new roots. To help them, you need to keep the ground in which the sprouts are planted moist until they take root. Therefore, if there is not enough planting material, even broken or rootless delenki can be planted.

The resulting delenki are planted in holes previously dug and filled with humus soil and generously watered. The subsequent care for them is exactly the same as for the chrysanthemums of the previous year. Flowering of young bushes is observed already in the year of transplantation, but the timing of its onset may shift and occur 2 weeks later than in the mother plant.

How to cut chrysanthemums

Cultivation of chrysanthemums by cuttings is the most popular and effective method, which makes it possible to obtain the required amount of planting material of the same age. To successfully grow chrysanthemums from cuttings, you need to start preparing for this method of reproduction in advance, with the selection of the strongest and healthiest mother plants. This should be done during the mass flowering of the variety, taking into account not only the general condition of the bush, but also its decorative effect and the degree of severity of varietal characteristics.

Chrysanthemum cuttings take root very easily. Even if you break off a side shoot from a bouquet of chrysanthemums standing in the water and plant it in the soil, it will soon give new leaves.

When flowering is over, selected specimens are cut and dug up. Then they are transplanted into boxes or spacious pots with fertile, humus-fertilized soil and generously watered. When the plants take root in new conditions for them, they are moved to a well-lit, cool room with an air temperature of 4-6 ° C, in which they are kept until the last days of January with moderate watering. It is not recommended to store mother plants under racks or in dark basements, as this greatly depletes them and, as a result, significantly reduces the quality and quantity of cuttings.

With the onset of February, chrysanthemums are transferred to a warmer place or the air temperature in the room where they used to be up to 12-15 ° C is increased. The earth in pots is generously watered, and a week after watering, the growth of young shoots is stimulated. To do this, top dressing is carried out with 0.2% nitrogen fertilizer (20 g of ammonium nitrate is diluted in a bucket of settled water at room temperature).

The advantage of cuttings is that 30-40 bushes can be grown from one mother bush. For quick healing of wounds obtained when digging up a plant and pruning shoots, containers with mother liquors are kept in a warm room for 10–12 days, observing moderate watering.

The optimal period for cuttings is February-early April. In principle, a later cutting of chrysanthemums in the spring in May is also possible, but the time necessary for the correct formation of the plant before planting in the ground will already be lost, and as a result, it will hardly be possible to achieve friendly flowering.

The soil for rooting cuttings should be taken well-drained, light, not compacted during irrigation. It can be a mixture of turf, leafy soil and river sand in a ratio of 2:1:1, as well as perlite, a mixture of peat and sand, or something similar. The prepared soil is poured into a planting container, leveled, covered with a layer of about 2 cm of sand and peat in a ratio of 1: 1, slightly compacted and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

How do chrysanthemums propagate by cuttings? From the mother bush, the cuttings are cut immediately to the desired length (8-10 cm), with a sharp knife and planted in the prepared substrate to a depth of about 1.5 cm, compacting the sand around for greater stability. Planting density 4x4 or 5x5 cm, depending on the size of the leaf blade. When working with small-leaved varieties per 1 sq. m can root up to 500 seedlings.

During rooting, the following recommendations should be observed:

• Containers with seedlings are covered with transparent polyethylene, making sure that the distance from its surface to the tops of the cuttings is at least 10 cm.
• On sunny bright days, seedlings need to be shaded.
• The air temperature in the room is maintained at 18-20 ° C, and the soil is 1-2 degrees warmer.
• The substrate should be aired daily and, if necessary, moistened.

If, after watering, drops of water remain on the leaves, you can not close the film immediately. Excessive moisture provokes the appearance of rot, and a significant part of the cuttings may die.

The duration of the rooting of cuttings depends primarily on the conditions created and the time of reproduction. On average, it is 15-18 days in February and 10-14 days in March-April. When the cuttings take root and get stronger, they are transplanted into boxes, pots (several cuttings) or small plastic containers (glasses) with good fertile soil for growing, covered with a plastic bag on top.

Speaking about how to breed chrysanthemums in any of the ways, it is important not to forget about pinching. The first time the cuttings that have taken root in a new place are pinched (the growth points are removed) when they reach a height of 15 cm. The second time the pinching is carried out when the shoots reach a length of 10-12 cm. February and March seedlings are usually pinched 2-3 times, April - 1 -2 times. Timely pinching not only stimulates the growth of lateral shoots, but also contributes to the successful formation of a strong, compact, weather-resistant bush, and also makes it possible to achieve even flowering. However, it should be remembered that each of the pinchings somewhat postpones the flowering time, therefore, given the climate, it is recommended to carry them out at the optimum time and only on plants of early breeding periods.

When in early dates cuttings, it is required to obtain an additional amount of planting material of any kind, you can cut the tops of rooted cuttings to a length of 4-5 internodes (depending on their height), and then root them in the same way.

If you were unable to plant the cuttings right away, don't worry: they can be stored at low temperatures for 6-8 weeks without losing their suitability for rooting.

During the growing and rooting of planting material, it is necessary to feed twice a month, both young and mother bushes, alternating solutions of mineral (concentration 0.2%) and organic fertilizers (mullein 1:10). 10-14 days before planting the cuttings in open ground, you need to start hardening them to prepare them for new growing conditions. To do this, containers with plants can be placed in unheated greenhouses or simply placed on a loggia or terrace, not forgetting to cover them with foil at night.