Chrysanthemum large-flowered cultivation. We grow chrysanthemums (large-flowered, branch, potted, Korean). Planting seeds in the ground

Chrysanthemums are relatively drought tolerant. Chrysanthemums are photophilous (in the shade the bushes will be less lush). Chrysanthemums are cold-resistant, need shelter for the winter. Chrysanthemums need proper pinching.

Chrysanthemums by their type are: large-flowered (for cut), branch (small-flowered and large-flowered), potted (for greenhouses and growing in pots) and Korean (oak trees).

Landing

Chrysanthemums are planted and transplanted both in spring and autumn. In the spring - when the threat of night frosts passes, in the fall - no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable frosts.

Half a bucket of humus or compost, or biohumus is brought into each landing hole.

When planting, seedlings do not deepen.

After planting, be sure to water.

The minimum landing pattern is 30×30. Otherwise, the bushes will not be lush and will be too tall.

During the summer season, until the moment of flowering, we do not forget about top dressing, we water every two weeks with complex fertilizer. Good results, in our opinion, are given by ROST fertilizer (concentrate or universal). This fertilizer is based on potassium humate. Compared to conventional organo-mineral fertilizers, ROST contains a high concentration of potassium humate, NPK, trace elements, and has fungicidal activity.

Formation of chrysanthemums (pinching)

Large-flowered chrysanthemums grown in one or three stems with one flower on each of them.
For large-flowered chrysanthemums, it is very important to pinch in time.

As soon as the young chrysanthemum releases the 8th leaf, pinch the crown. Then the plant will release several new shoots. Of these, 2-3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are removed. By the way, the removed extra cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted by cuttings.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums stepchild, removing periodically appearing side shoots, otherwise the flowers will be small.

branch chrysanthemums are formed so that one branch gives a whole bouquet inflorescences. After the 8th leaf, we also pinch the shoot.

stimulate their growth. The longer the side shoots grow, the better the branch will look when cut. When the chrysanthemum branch begins to bud (buds will be tied), then pinch the largest first bud, leave up to 10 best side buds, and remove the rest of the little things. As a result, you will get an evenly flowering branch.

Potted chrysanthemums
A feature of such chrysanthemums is the ability to form spherical bushes of short stature (20-40 cm) with abundant flowering.

Potted chrysanthemums can be grown in open and closed ground, used for landscaping in flowerpots on flower beds, on a balcony, with subsequent drift into the house.
Such chrysanthemums do well without pinching.

But if you want to create a masterpiece with a very dense bush, then we pinch the top of the seedling at a height of about 10 cm. Then, as the side shoots grow (in two weeks), we pinch all the side shoots.

Korean chrysanthemums (oak trees)
This is the only winter-hardy group of chrysanthemums. It is grown without hassle in the garden, for many years, without digging for the winter.

Korean chrysanthemums develop quickly, give a lot of shoots. The planted stalk will soon become a massive bush, and in favorable conditions it will grow and expand further every year.
Such a chrysanthemum grows well without pinching. But if it seems to you that your Korean chrysanthemum is too stretched up or it does not have a dense enough bush, then pinching will not be superfluous (according to the principle of branch chrysanthemums).

Wintering of chrysanthemums (shelter for the winter)

Successfully winter in open ground(with proper cover) only Korean chrysanthemums. The purpose of the shelter is to preserve the root shoots. To do this, we cut the bushes to a height of 15 - 20 cm above the soil level, immediately after flowering. In mid-October, we drop the bushes with earth, peat, compost or biohumus (what is at hand), and cover with fallen leaves from above. In the spring, as soon as the frost subsides, we remove the shelter.

Heat-loving chrysanthemums - potted, branch and large-flowered are dug out of the ground in the second half of September and placed in a cool room. It can be a basement (preferably dry) with a temperature not exceeding 10°C.
Dug bushes with a clod of earth are cleaned of dried shoots, dying leaves and placed in boxes, old buckets or pots filled with a fertile mixture (2 parts of humus or compost, 1 part of peat, 0.5 parts of sand).

If chrysanthemum shoots start growing in winter, remove their upper part so that 2-3 nodes remain on the stem.

So the bushes are stored until the end of February. During this period, watering is carried out no more than two or three times a month.

In March, bushes from the basement are transferred to glazed veranda or a greenhouse with a higher temperature than in the basement. Only in the presence of light and heat can the shoots develop successfully and will not be elongated, and will acquire a normal green color. 10 days after the transfer of the chrysanthemum, it is advisable to feed it with complex fertilizer. We use GROWTH.

In late May - early June, overwintered bushes are planted in open ground. The queen cells are divided into parts and seated before planting.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are heat-loving plants. They have been successfully grown in southern countries. In Japan, the Grandiflora Festival is held annually. In Russia, these flowers are not very common due to the cold climate. Another reason is the complex cultivation technology. Gardeners buy seedlings of large-flowered chrysanthemums, plant them, and the seedlings give a powerful green growth, and the plants do not have the strength to bloom. In early May, it is necessary to remove all young shoots so that the chrysanthemum can spend nutrients for bud formation. Oddly enough, the first bud needs to be cut off, thus, you activate the protective mechanism of the chrysanthemum, and it will begin to direct nutrients to the rest of the buds. You need to select the largest of them, and delete the rest.

Chrysanthemum storage

Due to the cold climate, the chrysanthemum may not bloom until the onset of frost. In this case, the bush must be dug up and transplanted into a pot. To delay the flowering of the chrysanthemum, the room where the flower is stored must be maintained at a temperature of 5 ° C. At this temperature, the bud will not freeze out, but it will not bloom either.

During storage in the cellar, it is absolutely impossible to water the chrysanthemum. If you are afraid that the plant will dry out, put some snow on the soil. In a cool room, it will gradually begin to melt and moisten the soil, the chrysanthemum bush will not rot.

After the end of frost, next spring, the chrysanthemum is transplanted from the pot to its original place. Magnesium-containing and are preliminarily introduced into the soil. Chrysanthemums during flowering are treated with insecticides.

Why does the large-flowered chrysanthemum not bloom?

After the age of three, chrysanthemums bloom worse. There is no clear explanation for this.

Some botanists say that the chrysanthemum bush is aging quickly. Slag accumulates in its roots, and the root system can no longer provide a large above-ground part with sufficient nutrients.

Others believe that the chrysanthemum secretes natural poisons that prevent other plants from growing near it. However, she herself suffers from an overabundance of these toxic substances. Therefore, she starts up new basal shoots and, thus, moves to a new place. The plant spends a lot of energy on moving, and the chrysanthemum does not have the strength to bloom abundantly.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are popular with gardeners. These attractive plants look impressive both in a flower bed and in a bouquet. In addition, they flourish at a time when all other crops are already withering. From this material you will learn how to grow and propagate flowers, the nuances of caring for them.

A bit of history

Large-flowered chrysanthemums, photos of which are given in the material, are herbaceous perennials and belong to the Aster family, or Compositae. Translated from Greek, their name means "solar flower". This name appeared due to the golden hue of the petals inherent in most varieties of the plant.

China is considered the birthplace of chrysanthemums. According to legend, 2.5 thousand years ago, this flower was bred by a local breeder and named it Chu hua, which means "gathered together." Now there are 29 species of this genus, and they are distributed in all northern and temperate zones of the globe.

But most of all chrysanthemums are grown in Japan. She was brought here Buddhist monks as early as the 4th century. And here the flower is considered a symbol of the country, it is even depicted on the coat of arms of the imperial seal. Indeed, in ancient times, only truly influential people could decorate themselves with chrysanthemum buds.

Flowers came to Europe only in the 18th century. And since then they have become the favorites of gardeners.

Botanical description

Large-flowered chrysanthemum is a perennial shrub with a branched powerful rhizome. Culture reaches up to a meter in height. Branching long shoots of the plant are pubescent or bare. The leaves of the flower, painted in light or dark green tones, simple, alternately arranged. But depending on the variety, they differ in shape and size.

Small chrysanthemum flowers are collected in a large basket, reaching up to 20 cm in diameter. Buds are simple or terry. The most common Indian, Chinese and Japanese large-flowered chrysanthemums. Such flowers are distinguished by massive bud heads, unpretentious nature and a variety of shades. Below you will find some attractive varieties.

The best varieties

Breeders have bred many varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums. The following varieties have gained particular popularity:

• Gazelle. The variety is valued by gardeners for large heads, reaching 14 cm in diameter. Terry buds are painted in snow-white color. They bloom at the end of August and delight with an attractive view until frost. Tall shrubs need a garter or support.
• Valentina Tereshkova. The variety was bred by Crimean breeders. It is distinguished by its unpretentious character and a large cap of buds, reaching 13-14 cm in diameter. The upper petals of the flower are painted in red-crimson tones, the lower petals have a lighter, pink hue. The plant grows up to 60-70 cm in height. Blooms in early September.
• Alec Bedser. This variety of chrysanthemum reaches 70 cm in height. The buds are hemispherical in shape and 14 cm in diameter, painted in rich yellow. Moreover, the inner petals are darker than the outer ones.
• Diplomat. A variety bred by English breeders. Flat terry buds reach 15 cm in diameter. The petals are burgundy and purple. The plant reaches a meter in height and needs support. Each bush forms 3-4 buds.

Each of these varieties will decorate the backyard. And if you want to create a truly attractive flower garden, then plant a mixture of colors of large-flowered chrysanthemums. In such sets of seeds there are several varieties of culture. And thanks to such an assortment, a real riot of colors is created. To grow such beauty, it will take some effort and create comfortable conditions for cultures.

Growing from seeds

If you managed to get potted large-flowered chrysanthemums, then all you need to do is plant flowers in mid-May in open ground. And then by the autumn they will please with large buds. But, unfortunately, getting such plants is not easy. Therefore, many gardeners grow flowers from seeds. Next, you will learn how to do it.

Start the event in mid-January. To grow flowers, take store soil or prepare the substrate yourself from greenhouse soil, peat and humus, mixed in equal parts. Before planting, be sure to disinfect the soil. To do this, bake it in the oven or hold it over steam.

It is better to grow a mixture of large-flowered chrysanthemums in containers. Seeding process:

1. At the bottom of the container, lay out a layer of drainage from broken bricks or expanded clay.
2. Fill the substrate, spread the seeds of large-flowered chrysanthemums and lightly press them into the soil.
3. Spray landing warm water from a spray bottle, then cover the container with glass or polyethylene.
4. Put the greenhouse in a room with a temperature of + 23 ... + 25 ° C.
5. Air the crops regularly and spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle.

After 10-14 days, the first shoots will appear. As soon as this happens, move the greenhouse to a lighted area and start hardening off the seedlings. To do this, remove shelters first for an hour, then for two, and so on.

When 3-4 true leaves appear on the sprouts, transplant them into separate cups, being careful not to damage the roots of the seedlings. Grow the dived seedlings of large-flowered chrysanthemums in a room with a temperature of + 16 ... + 18 ° C. Do not forget to water the plants regularly, as well as feed them with complex fertilizers twice a month. If there is not enough light in the room, then organize additional lighting with photo lamps.

Landing in open ground

Plant the seedlings outdoors when the risk of night frost is gone, that is, in mid or late May. For growing large-flowered chrysanthemums, choose a lighted area on a hill, but at the same time the place should be closed from the wind. Plants prefer neutral or slightly acid fertile loams. If you have clay or sandy soil, then before planting, add humus or humus to the soil along with complex fertilizers.

Start planting on a cloudy, or even better, rainy day. If the weather is not suitable, then hold the event in the early morning. How to plant flowers:

1. Dig a trench measuring 45 x 50 cm.
2. Set the flowers in the recesses along with the earthy clod. Keep a distance between seedlings.
3. Fill the voids with soil, slightly compact the top layer and moisten the planting. It is advisable to water the flower bed with a solution of "Kornevin" at the rate of 1 g per liter of water.
4. Immediately after planting, pinch the plants, that is, remove the top point of growth.
5. Cover the seedlings with lutrasil.

Remove the shelter when the plants take root and grow.

flower care

Growing large-flowered chrysanthemums will not cause much trouble. However, there are a few rules that you should follow in order to get beautiful hats of flowers. First of all, when the plants are strong enough, you need to remove the side shoots, leaving only strong branches. Most varieties need additional support, because the shoots cannot support the weight of large heads. Therefore, tie plants to pegs or stretch wire mesh next to them. Otherwise, flower care consists of regular watering, periodic feeding and preparation for the winter period.

Watering

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are moisture-loving plants. And they need regular and plentiful watering. The slightest lack of moisture will lead to a deterioration in the decorativeness of the flowers. Therefore, moisten the bushes 2-3 times a week, as soon as the top layer of soil dries. For irrigation, use rainwater or settled water. Irrigate the bushes strictly under the root, avoiding moisture on the leaves.

When the water is absorbed, be sure to loosen the soil. Otherwise, a crust will form on it, blocking the access of air to the roots. And this will have a bad effect on the beauty of flowers. Remove weeds during the event. To reduce crop care and avoid weeding and loosening, mulch the area with a layer of peat, fallen leaves or humus.

top dressing

Large-flowered chrysanthemums respond very gratefully to fertilizers. And it is desirable to feed crops at least three times per season. Fertilize the bushes with ammonia nitrogen for the first time at the beginning of active growth, approximately 6-8 weeks after planting. This will help crops to grow green mass.

After 2-3 weeks, feed the flowers with organic fertilizer, such as burnt mullein or bird droppings. But be careful with these substances, because they cause root burns. Therefore, do not exceed the dose.

Feed the bushes for the last time during budding. This time, apply potash-phosphorus fertilizers. This stimulates the intensive flowering of chrysanthemums.

All top dressings should be applied exclusively in liquid form. Water the plants with them strictly under the root the next day after rain or watering.

Wintering

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are heat-loving plants. And they won't survive the winter outdoors, even under good cover. Therefore, with the onset of cold weather, dig up the mother bushes, cut off all the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm, place them in a wooden box along with an earthen clod. Store flowers in a cellar at 0…+4 °C and 80% humidity.

Water the soil occasionally to keep it slightly moist. Regularly inspect the bushes, and if you notice signs of mold, then immediately cut out the damaged branches, otherwise the whole flower will die.

In late February or early March, move the bushes to a warmer and brighter room. Give them regular watering. And when they "come to life" and start growing, cuttings of flowers can be carried out.

If you have no desire to propagate crops, then simply plant the mother bush in its usual place as soon as warm weather sets in. But keep in mind that every three years you need to change the site for the flower garden. Otherwise, the plants will begin to act up and get sick, which will affect their decorative effect not in better side.

Propagation by cuttings

Start a similar method of growing flowers in late spring - early summer, when the temperature outside reaches + 21 ... + 26 ° C. With a sharp, disinfected knife, cut off the cuttings of the large-flowered chrysanthemum. In this case, choose shoots that grow directly from the root of the plant. Spend the cut 2-3 mm above the leaf with the kidney. The length of the cutting should reach 6-7 cm. How to root the branches:

1. Fill the container with nutrient soil and cover it with a 2 cm layer of sand.
2. Treat the lower cut with a growth stimulator and stick the cutting at an angle of 35-45 ° into the substrate. At the same time, make sure that the plant is in the sand and does not touch the soil.
3. Place the container on a bright window sill.

Maintain the temperature near the landing within + 15 ... + 18 ° C. Do not forget to regularly moisten the substrate, preventing it from drying out. After 2-3 weeks, when the cuttings take root, transplant them into open ground and further provide the plants with normal care.

Diseases

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are endowed with strong immunity. But if they are not properly cared for, then the plants can get sick:

• Powdery mildew. The disease affects buds, leaves, shoots. Appears as a white patch.
• Verticillium wilt. The disease affects the root system. As a result, the stems of the culture die off, and the leaves turn yellow and wither.
• Rust. It is manifested by the appearance of gray spots, which turn brown as the disease progresses. It affects all above ground parts of the plant.
• Gray rot. The disease is recognized by blurry brown spots, which eventually become covered with a gray fluffy coating. In the future, the plant rots and dies.

If you find signs of any disease, then immediately proceed to treatment. Bordeaux liquid will help get rid of gray rot and rust. To cure rust, either use colloidal sulfur or copper soap emulsion.

Pests

Slugs and snails are no less dangerous for flowers. They devour the leaves, stems and buds of plants. To prevent their occurrence, scatter crushed eggshells near the bushes. If snails and slugs have already appeared, then they will have to be removed by hand.

Attractive large-flowered chrysanthemums will decorate a flower bed and fit into any landscape. Of course, to grow these crops in your backyard, you will need to pay some attention to the flowers. But your efforts will not be in vain, and the result will exceed all expectations.

Chrysanthemums: planting, care

• Planting chrysanthemums
• Reproduction of chrysanthemums
• Formation of chrysanthemums
• Chrysanthemum Care
• Wintering of chrysanthemums
• Agrochemicals, fertilizers

Chrysanthemums: planting, care. In this article I will talk about planting chrysanthemums and their subsequent care. Because, after buying cuttings, many people ask me the same questions - what to do next with them, how to plant them, do I need to pinch them, how do they winter? .... I decided to write this article giving all the answers. But first I want to make a small lyrical digression) and go through the legend a little.

Chrysanthemums are always at the peak of popularity. They are given to loved ones on birthdays, on March 8, just like that ... This is a flower for both a man and a woman, for the older generation, for the young, and for small children. This flower is always appropriate. A golden autumn flower or a golden autumn flower, how many poems, how many songs .. They want to admire constantly, inhale the bitter aroma ...

No one can say for sure the place of origin of these flowers, but most scientists believe that chrysanthemums originated in the East. Traces lead to China, where already three thousand years ago chrysanthemums were known and appreciated by the Chinese emperors.

One day, an evil Chinese emperor fell seriously ill. From time to time foreign guests came to him and told a wonderful story about a flower that heals ailments and prolongs youth. This story haunted the emperor and one day he decided to get that flower, but only a person with a pure and kind soul could pick it.

The search for the "flower of youth" was entrusted to boys and girls, virgin and pure as the morning dew. They set off across the expanses of the Pacific Ocean. Everyone had a basket with chrysanthemums. During the trip, they got into a strong storm, which threw their boat onto a rocky island. When they realized they couldn't go back, they planted chrysanthemums and stayed on the island. Many years later, the descendants of these boys and girls settled in the rocky archipelago that is now known as Japan. Here is such a legend about the appearance of either Japan, or chrysanthemums in Japan.

Agoratechnique of chrysanthemum:

Seat selection, boarding:
Chrysanthemum cuttings are planted in open ground when the threat has passed.
freezing. We choose a sunny place, without shading
otherwise the bush will be loose and may stretch out.
Plants need
plant at a distance of 70-90 cm when planting early, and
60-70 cm when planting in June for multiflora, other types of chrysanthemum are planted on average 40-70 cm, depending on how you will form the plants and what effect you want to achieve.

If you want to plant a chrysanthemum multiflora (spherical) immediately in a pot, then to get a ball with a diameter of 40-60 cm, it needs a pot with a diameter of 17-21 cm. accordingly there will be more peduncles. After each watering, it is necessary to loosen the ground - this is the rule for all plants.

Chrysanthemum planting dates from May to August. Planting dates affect the size of the bush, chrysanthemums will bloom in the year of planting, they have time to gain weight and bloom in one season.

In short autumn days, the chrysanthemum has time to grow quickly and gain a vegetative mass. Varieties of chrysanthemums that bloom from August to October are usually called early. Medium varieties of chrysanthemums bloom in October and November, and late ones - in November - December.

The optimum temperature for the normal development of chrysanthemums is 16-25 degrees.

Chrysanthemum trimming:

Chrysanthemums multiflora genetically have the shape of a ball

For chrysanthemum multiflora, shaping is not required,
since it genetically grows in a ball,
but for a tighter ball and more
flowers make 1-3 pinches, the first immediately after
landing in the ground, the second after an increase of 7-8 cm,
same for the last one, you can do more
pinch if you don't like something in the shape of your
ball. Korean chrysanthemums are pinched 1-3 times, just like multiflora.

Potted large-flowered chrysanthemums pinch 1-2 times, immediately after planting in the ground and, if necessary, after 3-4 pairs of leaves, but usually one pinch is enough.

Chrysanthemum large-flowered Vienna white.

Large-flowered cut chrysanthemums (Indian) form in 1-2, rarely in 3 trunks, the smaller the number of trunks, the larger the flower. When growing large-flowered chrysanthemums in 1-2 trunks, the first pinch when they grow by 15 cm, the second time when they reach a height of 25 cm. All side shoots and buds must be carefully plucked, leaving only the central bud. Buds and shoots are not formed at the same time, so you need to check the bushes for their presence often in order to remove them in time.

Chrysanthemum branch Danz Purple.

Also, large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums can be grown as branches. To do this, they are pinched at a height of 10 cm, then at a height of 20-25 cm, while leaving all the side shoots, the number of buds can be adjusted as desired.

Chrysanthemum care:

Chrysanthemums as indoor culture

For growing indoors and on balconies, low-growing varieties - multiflora and potted large- and medium-flowered varieties are suitable. Home chrysanthemums, ideally, should be kept on western or eastern windows. South windows are too hot for them, straight Sun rays cause rapid flowering. On the northern windows, the buds may not open at all. As an option, a chrysanthemum at home can be put on a ventilated, cool balcony with good lighting.

Chrysanthemum is a short daylight plant. Flowering begins when daylight hours are reduced to 8-10 hours. And this happens in the fall. Then the coolness necessary for opening the flowers of chrysanthemums appears. Similar conditions may occur in early spring, in March-April. If at this time you put your home chrysanthemum on a cool balcony, then spring flowering is possible.

Some amateur flower growers provoke the flowering of their chrysanthemums by artificially reducing daylight hours. To do this, after the required 8-10 hours, the plant is covered with an impenetrable cap, for example, made of cardboard. Optimum temperatures for growing chrysanthemums: in summer - 20-23°, in autumn - 15-18°, in winter - 3-8°. These temperatures are ideal. With their observance, the chrysanthemum gains a large number of buds and blooms for a long time. However, nothing bad will happen if you deviate from the recommended parameters. A chrysanthemum in a pot will survive the hot summer just fine if you put it in a ventilated, shaded place from the midday rays. It will also tolerate short-term frosts down to -3 °.

Wintering of chrysanthemums

In the northern regions, Korean chrysanthemums overwinter in the open ground (OG), where they grew. Multiflora can overwinter under shelter in the exhaust gas, but still it is risky, it is better to transfer it to the basement, cellar, greenhouse, veranda for the winter, where you can control the condition of the bush. Indian and potted large-flowered plants hibernate only indoors with a temperature of -2 + 8. We have had cases when the bushes in bags and pots in very coldy and after thawing remained alive and unharmed, the temperature there dropped to -10C. In general, chrysanthemums are more afraid of getting wet, so do not overdo it with watering in winter, the ground in which chrysanthemums are stored should be slightly damp.

If autumn
bring a flowering bush into the house, then it will be half the winter
delight you with its flowering and pleasant bitter
aroma, while improving your microclimate.

At the same time, it is advisable to put the plant in the brightest and coolest place, but even on a table in a warm room, it blooms and pleases for a long time.

In our region (the Rostov region is considered a zone of risky farming), the weather is very unstable in winter - at first frost can hit -15C on bare ground and only after a few days 5-15 cm of snow can fall, frosts reach -30C, very often thaws alternate with frosts and even in this winter
leave plants
in the ground under an air-dry shelter - like grapes. In our garden, a large-flowered variety has been wintering simply without any shelter for several years and different varieties multiflora. Korean chrysanthemums winter outdoors in all regions of Russia.

Our way of storing chrysanthemums is after the flowers are damaged by resistant
frosts, the whole bush breaks out on
height of 10 cm from the ground - this is in order not to
the root and shoots of chrysanthemums under this hat soprel. Top slightly
sprinkle with dry leaves, on top of a mesh box and
on
him a piece of slate or a wide board. With such a shelter, the bush is both covered and ventilated. As soon as the spring
snow
descends, the thaw begins - the leaves are removed so as not to
sprouts shriveled.

We also place chrysanthemums dug from the ground very tightly in a mesh box, while we do not shake the ground from the bushes much. If there is no room in the room, we leave the boxes on the street, put them close to each other and cover them in 3-4 layers with the densest agrofibre, in the thaw it is necessary to check the boxes so that they do not dry out - this method is only suitable for multiflora.

From diseases and pests:

FROM aphids, whiteflies - drugs Aktara, Fitoverm, Iskra, IntaVir.

FROM spider mites - preparations Aktara, Fitoverm, Antiklesch.

FROM rot - preparation "Maxim", weak solution
manganese, Abiga Peak, Bordeaux mixture, any
copper-containing drug, Topsin.

Fertilizers - Ammonium nitrate, Urea, Universal, Fertika, Plantofol, Megafol.

Antistress—Epon, Zircon, Megafol, etc.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush and green cuttings. In early spring, the bush is dug up and the root growth is carefully separated with a knife. Planted immediately in a permanent place. When propagated by cuttings, the entire root shoot is grown and the cuttings are cut with a sharp knife at an angle of 45 degrees, 7-12 cm long, dipped in a rooter and buried 2 cm in a mixture of peat and sand, placed in a greenhouse and after 3-4 weeks, depending on temperature and humidity, you will have a small plant with a well-developed root system, it remains to harden it and you can plant it in a flower bed, in a pot.