We carry out sewerage inside a private house. Types of sewerage and installation cost

drains 13.06.2019
drains

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But if your task is to install a sewer that you cannot or do not want to connect to the general sewer networks, then you can easily cope with this difficult task and dig the sewer on your site yourself. This process must be approached very responsibly and seriously. After all, an erroneous calculation, marriage when laying a pipe or, as well as an incorrect overflow sewer device will create many unpleasant problems during further operation, which will be much more difficult to eliminate after work is completed.

In order for you not to be bothered by gurgling in pipes, unpleasant odors, freezing sewers in winter and other specific problems that may require concrete and earthworks to eliminate, you need to think about how to conduct sewers in your home at the planning stage.

Places of release of sewage drains


The simplest and most primitive place where sewer waste can be collected is a cesspool. It is created at the rate of 0.5 m³ for each family member. Its approximate dimensions are 3 x 1 x 1.5 m in length, width and depth, respectively.

It is very good if the soil in the place where the cesspool is located is clay. If its composition is different, then a concrete base with a slope towards the hatch is recommended. The walls of the pit can be made from boards, fitting them well, caulking and treating with bitumen. It is better to lay out the walls with brick or stone, sealing them with bitumen. The ideal option is pits made of concrete rings. Above is a hatch for cleaning. However, now sewage wiring to the cesspool is not allowed; this method is used extremely rarely in small garden houses.

A filter well device makes sense if there is sand and sandy loam on the site. A well is made of concrete rings, brick or stone. The diameter of the well varies from 2.5 to 3 m. It is necessary to dig at least 2.5 m to deepen the rings. At the bottom, a filter of gravel-crushed stone mixture with a height of about 0.5 m is arranged. The main disadvantage of concrete rings is the difficulty of their transportation. Indeed, for the transportation and unloading of rings, it is necessary to use special equipment.

Special qualifications for the performance of these works are not required, however, it is good to have the skills of excavation and concrete work.


The most modern and convenient device for receiving sewage in private homes is a septic tank. This is a three-dimensional wastewater receiving tank, where suspended particles settle to the bottom and decompose, resulting in hydrolysis of the sludge. Passed through 3 chambers and purified there, wastewater enters the soil. The septic tank is calculated from the ratio of 200 liters of water per consumer per day. A septic tank is made from various materials. are also made from concrete rings, but the most durable and convenient are metal-plastic septic tanks.

But to assess the level of groundwater and choose the place where the trench will be dug under, it is better to invite a specialist. The main criteria for choosing a place:


  1. From the border of the site to the place where you will dig a pit for a septic tank, you need to measure the distance, which should be equal to 2 m or more.
  2. The installation level of the septic tank must be below the level of the water well.
  3. Free passage of specialized transport should be provided to the septic tank.

The procedure for performing work on the installation of a septic tank:

  1. We dig a pit, increasing its size by 50 cm from the septic tank in each direction.
  2. We carry out the device of a sand cushion about 20-30 cm high, as well as a concrete base.
  3. Carefully, so that the septic tank does not crack, lower it into the pit.
  4. Pour sand between the walls of the septic tank and the pit.

The device of pipes of external sewerage from the house to the sewerage drain

The materials necessary for the performance of work are purchased taking into account the design length of the pipeline and the diameter of the pipes. We will need:

  1. Pipes are cast iron or plastic.
  2. Outlet with a diameter equal to the diameter of the internal riser.
  3. Sand.
  4. Fittings (couplings, bends, plugs) for a pipe of the required diameter with sealing rings.
  5. Silicone lubricant (or liquid soap).
  6. Heater for pipes Energoflex.
  7. Electrical cable in a protective corrugation.
  8. Level to control the slope of the pipe.


After laying the pipeline, connecting it to a septic tank or cesspool, completing backfilling and concrete work, the sewerage wiring in a private house is completed. The system is ready for testing and further operation.

During the construction of housing, it is often necessary to solve issues with sewage. If you want to save money, you can start the installation work yourself, besides, they are not very difficult. The main factor in the arrangement of private sewage is the lack or availability of access to the central highway. If it (the highway) is located near your home, installation work will not cause labor. In this article, we will talk about how to properly make a sewer in a private house, show diagrams, photo and video instructions.

Device

The maximum amount of work you have to do when installing an external sewage system. First of all, it is necessary to dig several trenches and lay pipes to a depth of 50-150 cm. That is, the depth of the laying should be below the freezing level of the earth in winter.

If there is no central sewer near your home, you will need to make an autonomous structure, which can be in the form of a cesspool, septic tank, well with a filter, or a local treatment plant.


The cesspool has been used since ancient times and the easiest way to build it yourself. Red ceramic bricks should be used to finish the interior walls.

Alternatively, you can build a pit from reinforced concrete rings, but first the bottom must be filled with concrete mortar, and the top of the pit must be covered with a lid with a ventilation hole and a viewing window.

A septic tank is often used in houses intended for permanent residence. This design is very reliable and easy to install, that is, if you follow the attached instructions, you can easily install it yourself. Polypropylene septic tanks do not need frequent cleaning, which significantly saves money on the services of a sewer. Thanks to the latest technology, domestic water undergoes multiple purifications when it enters the device.

Preliminary preparation


Before starting construction work, you must perform several sequential steps:

  • determine the location of the sewer well: it should be below the level of housing;
  • mark the place where the sewer pipe exits the house;
  • pay attention to the outlet of the collector pipe, since it is there that all the sewage from the dwelling will be concentrated. No defects, irregularities or distortions are allowed;
  • when drafting, calculate all the bends and corners along which the pipes will pass, especially the internal sewer system;
  • after performing the above steps, you can go to a specialized store to purchase materials.

Mounting


In the event that the house has an old system, it will be much easier for you. It is necessary to dismantle old pipes and lay new ones along ready-made sewer paths.


However, a complete redesign may be required, which involves raising floor covering and deepening the trench if necessary:

  • Dig a hole under the foundation and measure the width from top to bottom. The optimal value should be at least 100 cm, only in this case you can not worry about freezing of the collector pipe;
  • From the street side, dig a trench to the drain hole. The depth of the trench on the outside should be greater than the inside and be at a slight angle to facilitate the flow of waste.

You have to lay sewer pipes both inside the house and on the street.

  1. At the bottom of the trenches, it is necessary to make a sand cushion 20 cm thick. This will reduce the pressure on the polypropylene pipes. That is, thanks to the sand, the covered soil will not put much pressure on the structure;
  2. High-quality installation is impossible without proper sealing and pipe connection. To do this, during installation, insert tees into the pipes, which will help you eliminate blockages during operation. At this stage, it is not worth saving - it will all pay off very quickly;
  3. The tees are installed in increments of 4 meters, and the part that comes to the surface is clogged with a plug.

Internal sewerage


For installation inside the house, polypropylene pipes are often used, which are not susceptible to corrosion, and, accordingly, their service life is quite long, while the installation process is simpler than that of cast iron or steel counterparts.

If you have a lot of plumbing, you need to choose a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, while the pipe from the sink is 5 cm. That is, you will have to connect various pipes, which is done using adapters. For reliability and tightness, gaskets are used at the butt joints.

A revision (tee) is installed on the riser at a level of 1 meter from the floor, from which a pipe for exhaust is removed to a height of 70 cm from the roof surface.

Such a complex installation system will help you avoid the unpleasant odors in the house that accompany the installation of the sewer system. If the riser is ventilated in accordance with all requirements, then extraneous odors will not penetrate the room and cause discomfort.

Be sure to provide thermal insulation for the riser located in a cold room.

To connect the riser to the external sewer system, outlets are used, the diameter of which is smaller than the diameter of the pipe on the riser. According to professionals, the outlet should be mounted in the direction of wastewater at a right angle and connected to the riser with two outlets with angles of 135 degrees. If you need an additional riser, you will need to use an oblique tee and an additional outlet. If one riser or collector pipe is provided, labor costs will be much less.

External sewerage is carried out from polypropylene pipesØ150 mm.

After reading the instructions and observing the technology of work, it is easy to equip your country house with the necessary communications.

Video

The process of installing a sewer for a private house in video format:

If you do not wish to install autonomous sewerage for a private house on your own, we recommend looking for a reliable company on the Internet. Often on the websites of such companies there are calculators for calculating the cost of work.

Almost everyone who lives in a private house is faced with the issue of arranging sewerage. In this case, the owners have a lot of questions. But the most important of them is how much it costs to sewer. The price of arrangement depends on various factors: whether you will make an autonomous system or connect to a centralized highway, which type of treatment plant or storage tank you are going to use, and whether you plan to make a sewer yourself or hire workers.

Sewer types

Sewerage in a private house will consist of two parts: external and internal systems. Internal sewerage is needed to collect wastewater from sanitary appliances. It is laid inside the house. An outdoor system diverts drains away from the house. At the same time, it can be of two types - storm (for diverting runoff from precipitation) and household (for removing waste from the house).

In our article we will talk about domestic sewage, which consists of the following elements:

  • piping systems;
  • pumping equipment;
  • filtering devices;
  • storage pit and wells;
  • septic tank, filtration fields or filtration wells.

In any private house, you can make a gravity or forced sewage system. The installation of a gravity water pipeline is carried out if the required slope of the pipes can be achieved. In addition, there are restrictions on the length of the pipeline. The installation of a pressure system is done if it is not possible to slope the pipes (2 cm per 1 m of length) or the length of the pipeline is significant. However, the cost of such a system is higher, because you need to buy pumping equipment.

Important: pressure sewerage is a volatile system, so it cannot be used where there are power outages.

materials



If you want to calculate how much it costs to sewer, then first you need to take into account the cost of materials. To install the internal system, you will need plumbing fixtures and pipes. Usually PVC or PP pipes are used. However, in addition to them, you will need additional products:

  • knee;
  • special taps;
  • tees;
  • adapters;
  • crosses.

In addition to all sanitary appliances, it is necessary to buy siphons that will allow you to make a water seal that prevents the penetration of gases from the sewer into the room.

If your a private house located near the central sewer network, then the installation of the system will be cheaper, since you only need to equip the risers and internal wiring, as well as lay the pipeline from the house to the central networks.

If there are no such networks near the house, then it is necessary to install an autonomous sewer. In this case, money for the purchase and arrangement of a system for collecting and treating wastewater will have to be added to the costs listed above. Here, your costs depend on which system you decide to make. So, for autonomous sewage, you can choose one of the following options:

  1. A cesspool is the simplest and cheapest option. In this case, you need to make a sealed container, from which waste will be removed with the help of a sewage truck every 2-4 months. However, the odor from the pits and the inconsistency sanitary standards led to their being almost never used.
  2. Filter well- this is the same cesspool, only without a bottom. Instead, a layer of sand and gravel is made at the bottom, through which the drains are filtered and go into the ground. Filling the pit in this case is not so fast, but the degree of cleaning is only 60-70 percent.
  3. More expensive but also more effective option in terms of wastewater treatment - this is a septic tank. Here, wastewater is not only settled, but also cleaned due to the activity of aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. The frequency of cleaning the septic tank is once a year. However, your costs will be much higher, since you will have to make three tanks. The first is for settling wastewater, the second is a biological treatment tank, and the third tank is a filtering well from which effluents go into the ground. The degree of purification is 95 percent.
  4. The most expensive and efficient option is installation of a biological treatment plant. This is a factory product in which effluents go through several stages of mechanical and biological treatment. As a result, you get 98-99% purified water that can be used for watering the garden and various technical purposes.

For the installation of an external pipeline, you can use special plastic pipes for outdoor work (they orange color), corrugated heavy-duty products or cast iron elements. But the latter option is disadvantageous in that you have to involve lifting equipment for laying pipes, and this entails additional costs.

Price of materials



If you do the installation yourself, then you only have to calculate the prices of materials. The final figure will depend on various factors:

  • The total number of bathrooms (with pipes and plumbing). Usually, the purchase of sanitary appliances, pipes and fittings for one bathroom takes from 15 to 20 thousand rubles. ($230-310).
  • The total number of risers.
  • The length of the horizontal sewer pipeline (internal).
  • The distance at which the centralized sewerage, drainage collector or treatment plant is located from the house. Usually, about 1 thousand rubles will have to be spent for each meter of length. ($15).
  • How much it will cost to buy and install a treatment plant depends on its type, so you can say for sure in each case. It can be added that the cesspool and filtration well will be the cheapest, the septic tank will cost a little more, and the biggest expenses will be for the purchase of a deep cleaning station.

Wages of hired workers



Before deciding who will carry out the installation of the sewer system, it is worth finding out if there are any municipal networks near the house. If they are, then you can contact the employees of this organization, since it is they who most often install external networks and connect to a centralized sewer.

If there is no municipal sewer nearby, then you can install the system yourself or by contacting specialists. Here, the total price for the services of masters depends on the amount of work and is calculated taking into account the following rates:

  • For the design of the sewer system, you will have to pay about 90 rubles. ($1.3) for each square meter of area. For the preparation of the estimate, you will give another 50 rubles / m² ($ 0.7).
  • For the installation of internal sewer networks, masters of private firms take 250 rubles each. ($ 3.8) per linear meter.
  • For the installation of external sewer networks with a diameter of not more than 160 mm without excavation, you will have to pay 300 rubles. ($4.6) per meter.
  • Installation and connection of sanitary appliances will cost 1000 rubles. ($15) each fixture.
  • Installation of a treatment plant (septic tank) will be performed by masters of private firms for 10 thousand rubles. ($150).
  • For connecting a washing machine and dishwasher, you will have to pay about 1200 rubles. ($18) per device.
  • Installing a bathroom will cost the owner of a private house 2500 rubles. ($38).
  • If you want to install a hot tub or jacuzzi, then you will have to pay from 3 thousand rubles for this. ($46).
  • Installation of a toilet bowl and a bidet cost 2500 rubles each. ($38) per piece.
  • Installation of a shower cabin - 4500 rubles. ($69).

The sewer system in the apartment allows you to enjoy all the benefits of comfortable housing. However, over time, such a network falls into decay, but it can be independently built or repaired. Find out how easy it is to build a sewer in an apartment with your own hands.

What is a sewer system for?

The main task of the residential sewer network is the collection and disposal of wastewater. Modern comfortable housing has many plumbing fixtures and devices that consume water. It can be ordinary, kitchen sinks, bathtubs and showers, complex equipment, for example. Finally, no apartment can do without, and in some cases - a bidet. All of them generate a large amount of sewage that must be discharged into the main collector.


The composition of the apartment sewer network

The apartment has many elements.

  1. Sewer risers are pipes with a large cross section, located vertically.
  2. Horizontal outlets that serve to collect drains from plumbing fixtures and bring them to the riser.
  3. Connecting elements: various crosses and bends.
  4. Siphons are curved pipes that form a water seal that prevents the spread of odors.

For the installation of residential sewer networks, gray plastic pipes are usually used. They are very light, strong enough and easy to install. All elements of the system are connected as a constructor, without the use of specialized equipment. In addition, when installing an apartment sewer, you may need brackets with which the pipes will be fixed on the walls of the premises.


Self-installation of the sewer network in the apartment

The basis of the apartment sewer network is the riser. This is a vertically located section of a large-section sewer pipe that passes through several apartments in one entrance. Depending on the design of the house, there may be more than one sewer riser.

When building or repairing a sewer network, first of all, it is necessary to revise the riser. In many old houses, sewer systems were made of cast-iron pipes, which eventually become unusable, layers form on their inner surface that impede the passage of drains, microcracks appear on the body, leading to the spread of unpleasant odors and the formation of leaks.


Replacing a sewer riser is a big problem, primarily because all operations must be coordinated with neighbors in an apartment building. At the time of replacing the main sewer pipe, you need to prevent the use of the system by neighbors living above. In addition, the sewer riser passes through the floors of the house and you may need to carry out general construction work, again affecting the interests of the neighbors.

After you agree with all the neighbors and choose the time for repair work, proceed to replace the riser. For its installation, you will need a puncher and a supply of pipes with connecting elements.

Important! Sewer pipes are joined together by connecting elements that look like sockets. When installing them, the socket must be positioned so that its expansion is directed in the direction of the fluid flow.

The riser is replaced as follows:

  • after shutting off the water supply, you need to get to the junctions of your pipes with neighboring ones. It may be necessary to use a puncher to destroy the overlap around the pipe;
  • having exposed the connection area, dismantle the old pipe. To dismantle cast iron sewer pipes, you may need a hammer and chisel;
  • install a straight pipe section and fittings. Do not forget that the socket when installing the vertical riser must be directed upwards, otherwise you cannot avoid leaks. For additional sealing, use rubber gaskets, as well as sealant, which is applied over the junction of the pipes;
  • at the bottom of the vertical sewer riser, a cross or a branch is usually mounted. These elements are designed to connect horizontal outlets of the sewer network. The cross, tee or branch should be located at the very bottom of the riser, practically on the floor.

After mounting the vertical riser, you can begin to mark the location of the horizontal branches. There are two main options for building a sewer network.

  1. Non-pressure sewerage. Drains in the pipelines of such a network move under the influence of gravity, by gravity. For efficient operation of the entire system, sewer pipes must be laid at a certain slope so that the liquid inside them does not stagnate.
  2. In some cases, it is not possible to lay a free-flow sewer in an apartment. This happens, for example, due to the large length of horizontal outlets. In this case, one or more are used to supply wastewater to a vertical riser. Such the sewer is called. In the case of the construction of a pressure sewer, the slope of the pipelines must be observed only in those areas where the drains move by gravity.


In any case, during the construction of a sewer network in an apartment, at the initial stage, its project is drawn up. The network project will allow you to calculate the required number of connecting elements.


You can make a sewer network project on a regular sheet of graph paper. To do this, you need to draw to scale a plan of the premises in which the sewer network will be located, usually a bathroom, bathroom and kitchen.


When calculating the required number of pipelines and connecting elements, keep in mind that various plumbing fixtures must have sewer outlet pipes of different sections.

  1. When installing the sewer to the toilet or bidet, it is necessary to use a sewer pipe with an internal section of at least 10 centimeters.
  2. When installing sewer pipes to other devices in an apartment, a pipeline with a cross section of 5 centimeters is usually used.

Important! The internal section of the sewer pipelines should increase as the drains move from the extreme plumbing fixture to the vertical riser. It is unacceptable to connect outlet pipes of large diameter to horizontal outlets of smaller cross section. That is why typical projects of sewer networks in apartment buildings have risers located in the toilets, since a pipe with the largest cross section is connected to the toilets.

After drawing up a plan for the internal sewer network, proceed with the installation of horizontal sewer outlets. Their location can be marked on the wall. On the walls of the room, internal horizontal outlets of plastic sewer pipes are fixed using brackets. They must be placed at least every linear meter of the horizontal outlet. Otherwise, sagging of the pipelines may occur, which will lead to the formation of blockages.


Also, when compiling, you need to remember one thing important rule A: Sewerage should be as simple as possible. In the sewer apartment network must be present minimal amount twists and turns. Such areas disrupt the normal flow of sewage and provoke the formation of blockages.

The correct design of the sewer network, the minimum number of connecting elements and the sustained slope of the pipes lead to the fact that a self-cleaning effect occurs in the pipelines, when new portions of incoming effluents wash away the precipitate from previous portions.

To maintain the correct slope of the sewer pipelines, it is necessary to mark the extreme points of the horizontal sections on the wall. Then attach the brackets at the extreme points, stretch a marking cord between them and mark the locations of the intermediate fasteners.

When installing horizontal outlets, do not forget to correctly orient the pipe socket so that its expansion is directed towards the flow of sewage.


Between themselves, plastic pipes of the sewer network can be connected both in a dry way and with the use of glue. When installing sewer pipelines, it is important to remember that only straight sections of pipes can be sawed off (shortened). The connecting elements must remain intact.

When using adhesive bonding, first assemble the pipelines "dry". At the same time, you will check the correctness of the calculations and the availability of the necessary segments. After you check the entire configuration of the assembled horizontal outlet, you can disassemble it and then join the elements with an adhesive joint.

Important! When connecting individual segments of pipelines, it is necessary to leave a “temperature gap” at the junction. It is designed so that when hot drains pass and the temperature in the room rises, the pipes do not bend or deform. To maintain the temperature gap, the pipe segment is first joined to the stop, and then pulled out of the junction by a few millimeters.

At the junctions of horizontal pipe bends, rubber sealing elements may be present, or a layer of sealant may be applied over the junction.


If your apartment has an extended section of the sewer pipe, then it can be provided with a “revision” - a special segment that has a removable hatch to facilitate emergency access to the inner surface of the pipe.

At the ends of the horizontal outlets of sewer pipelines, plugs or couplings are placed, which serve to connect to the outlets. sewer pipes plumbing devices.

A number of plumbing devices are connected to sewer pipes directly, with flexible hoses. So, for example, flexible outlet hoses are available in the configuration of washing machines or dishwashers.

Other plumbing fixtures connected to the sewer network through siphons. Siphons are collapsible devices with a bend, at the bottom of which water is constantly located, and solid heavy objects that fall into the sewer are deposited. The constantly renewed volume of water at the bottom of the bend prevents the spread of odors from the sewer into the premises.

After passing through the siphon, the drains from the sinks fall into a flexible hose, which is connected to the horizontal outlet of the sewer network using a rubber coupling.


As you can see, even a person with minimal technological skills can design and independently build a sewer in an apartment. A competent design and careful installation of the sewer network will allow you to use it for many years.


Video - Do-it-yourself sewerage in an apartment





In private houses, residents often install sewers with their own hands so that they can live there as comfortably as in a city apartment. However, the townspeople do not even think about how it is located. But the owners of country houses, cottages and dachas have to study all the information on the arrangement of life support systems in the house.

To answer the question, how to sewer in a private house, the homeowner turns to the Internet space. In this article, we will try to answer this question.

Tools and materials

For the device of the internal system, pipes of 60-70 millimeters in diameter will be needed, in which all points of analysis will be connected to the riser. In addition to pipes, various bends, plugs, tees, revisions, adapters, elbows, sealants and fasteners are purchased.

The principle of operation of a septic tank type Biotank

The sewer riser usually has a larger diameter than other pipes, 100-150 millimeters.

Also useful: a set of wrenches, a hacksaw, measuring instruments and a level.

The riser takes over all the waste from the kitchen, toilet and bath, diverting them to a septic tank or other septic tank.

Tees are used to branch off the main pipe, and adapters are used to connect pipes of different diameters. Holes in pipes that are not in use can be closed with plugs.

Types of sewerage

Sewerage wiring in a private house is divided into internal and external works.

The first include the installation of a fan pipe and riser, wiring in the bathroom, in the kitchen and other similar premises.

First of all, in this matter make up the internal scheme. Think about this even at the planning stage of building a house. If it was decided to create it yourself, then you will need several sheets of graph paper, a ruler and a sharp pencil. Wherein:

  • draw up a house plan;
  • decide where the riser and plumbing fixtures will be located;
  • display pipes to the riser and fittings on all floors;
  • determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe;
  • calculate the outer part;
  • draw up its scheme in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN and SNiP.

It is better if the premises with sewerage are located as close to each other as possible. This will make it easier to set up. The system can be the most diverse and in all houses it has its own.

It should be borne in mind that pipes with a diameter of one hundred to one hundred and ten millimeters should be used. For drains from the kitchen and bathroom, PP and PVC pipes with a diameter of fifty millimeters are used. All turns are made with plastic elbows at an angle of 45 degrees, due to which clogging in the pipes is minimized. Pipes made of the above materials are more durable, cheaper and more reliable than cast iron pipes. In addition, the installation of such pipes is much easier.

First determine the location of the riser, then consider further wiring.

The external sewerage includes the entire part located outside the house. It is also done differently depending on whether people will live there permanently, how many, the number of plumbing fixtures used, the depth of groundwater, total area, soil type and climate.

The sewer system is installed more than five meters from the house if a drain option is chosen, or more than twenty meters with a drainage system. A distance of twenty to fifty meters is maintained to the water intake.

The pipes at the septic tank are insulated so that they do not freeze through in winter. Their diameter should be from ten to eleven centimeters and have a slope of up to five millimeters. The drain well is located below the level of the house. Sewers are:

  • accumulative - sealed containers for drains;
  • treatment - from deep cleaning septic tanks.

Let us first consider in more detail the arrangement of the sewer system inside and its installation, and then the external one: a cesspool and a container, as well as different types septic tanks.

Sewerage device inside the house

During installation, it must be remembered that sewage drains are a liquid mass, consisting of waste and water, and it flows down the slope. On a horizontal surface, the drains will not move. Therefore, all devices must be above the main outlet and drain.



laying of sewerage during the construction phase

The pipes are plastic. When planning to remove them into the wall, you can install one-piece ones. Plastic will not grow inside, corrosion will not appear on it and it will serve for a long time.

Sewer installation

Installation starts from the far point of the main exit. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the slope of the main pipe. It must be mounted in such a way that it fits exactly with the central outlet, and the pipe retains its drain angle. Do not allow height differences in it, as this will lead to blockages. You should also provide for the installation of special plugs so that when they are opened, it is possible to clean the pipeline from blockage.

Often the central pipe is concreted. This decision depends on the owner, but before that you need to double-check the installation several times. For reinsurance, you can additionally seal the pipe joints with fiberglass or epoxy glue.

The following rules must be followed before laying sewer pipes in a private house:

  • plastic pipes of one hundred and ten millimeters in diameter are used on the main risers;
  • all of them are installed with a slight slope to the septic tank or exit from the house;
    vertical pipes are set at an angle of ninety degrees, horizontal branches and tees - at forty-five degrees, and the sockets must be directed against the flow;
  • when installing the main riser, it is imperative to carry out ventilation so that an unpleasant odor does not disturb;
  • first they make the riser itself, and then the wiring, everything is strictly according to a pre-prepared scheme;
  • the exit of the pipe from the house must be at a depth of half a meter, otherwise, the pipe must be insulated;
  • consider an option in case an audit is necessary, for example, in case of blockage.

Cesspool or sealed container

If it is impossible to connect to the central drainage system, you have to build a drain pit or, even better, a septic tank. The pit is dug five meters from the house and two meters from the fence. The distance to the well should be from thirty meters.



plastic septic tank at the stage of arrangement and connection

In addition, sewerage should not be carried out near the water supply. The required distance between them is three meters.

This option is the most budgetary, but the unpleasant moment is the smell emanating from there. Cleaning the structure is also not a pleasure.

The material can be reinforced concrete, concrete or brick. It is also important to carry out high-quality sealing so that feces cannot get into the ground.

The bottom is poured with concrete or bitumen. The ceiling can be made of wood, but the lid must also be sealed with additional bitumen.

The sewer pipe should be close to the pit to a depth of up to a meter. As it is filled, it is cleaned with a sewage machine.

Instead of a cesspool, you can use an airtight container. Buy it or make it yourself. But in this case, you will often need to call the machine for cleaning.

Single and double septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is somewhat reminiscent of a cesspool. This is a well, at the bottom of which there is rubble, at least thirty centimeters thick, and on top there is a layer of coarse sand. Wastewater enters the well, and then, purified by 50%, into the soil. But the problem is not fundamentally solved.

Therefore, with permanent residence in the house of people, it will not be possible to manage with a single-chamber septic tank. This option is also suitable in case of low groundwater levels. Crushed stone and sand are changed once every four to six months.

A two-chamber septic tank is a combination of overflow settling wells and filter wells.

Such a system is very common and consists of one well with a bottom, and the other without a bottom, but with powders. Drains first fall into one well, where feces and heavy waste sink to the bottom, and fats, on the contrary, float up. At the middle level, where clarified water is formed, an overflow pipe is led into the second well, which is at a slight slope so that water can easily get there. Then it cleans up even better, seeping through the rubble and leaving.

As pollution accumulates in the first well, a sewage machine is called in for cleaning.

Installation of this option is also possible in the case when groundwater is constantly one meter below the bottom of the second well. In this case, the powder can be changed once every five years.

Septic tank with filtration field

If the owner country house is going to acquire a more serious cleaning, then it begins with a septic tank with a filtration field. Its capacity is divided into two, three or more departments, which are connected to each other by overflow pipes.



organization of a septic tank with the withdrawal of purified water to a nearby reservoir

In the first of them, the effluents are settled, in the second - there are anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic matter. Further, through the filters, the water enters the land area, where the soil is cleaned. Thus, the water is purified by eighty percent. The equipment is best installed on sandy or super sandy soil. In other cases, it will be necessary to specially create an artificial field of rubble and sand. At the end, the water is collected in pipes and discharged into ditches. Only a flower bed can be planted on the ground in this place, but not a vegetable garden or a garden.

The system should be installed only if groundwater is below two and a half meters.

Septic tank with biofilter

Installation of this system is possible even if groundwater is located high. The septic tank consists of a tank divided into three to four sections. In the first chamber, the water settles, then it decomposes with the help of anaerobic bacteria. In the third, it is separated, and then, in a chamber with a constant air supply, it is once again decomposed by bacteria. To do this, a pipe is installed in it, which rises fifty centimeters above the ground. Microorganisms are placed on the filter, the pipe of which connects the third and fourth sections. This is the filter field. Only unlike the previous version, it is concentrated and located on a small area inside the septic tank. Cleaning in this case reaches ninety-five percent.

Such water can be safely used for technical needs.

A septic tank is very good for a house where people live permanently. The necessary microorganisms are added simply by flushing them down the toilet. However, if you leave your home for a while, the bacteria will die. And again they will be able to function actively only after half a month of continuous stay.

Septic tank with forced air supply

Such a system is an accelerated and natural cleaning, carried out in an artificial way. This septic tank will require electricity to operate the air pump.

It consists of three interconnected departments. Water from the sewer enters the first section and settles. In the second, in a clarified version, it is mixed with the help of an aeration tank, consisting of plants and microorganisms. Further, in the third sump, the deepest cleaning takes place, and the sludge is pumped back into the second chamber.

The system is costly and requires electricity and permanent residence.

General rules

The septic tank should be at least five meters from the house, twenty to fifty meters from the water source and ten meters from the garden.



septic tank and drainage system

The house is located eight meters from the filter wells, twenty-five from the filter fields, fifty from the aeration plants and three hundred from the drain stations.

Pipes that go to the septic tank are insulated so that they do not freeze in winter. For this purpose, they are wrapped with thermal insulation material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External wiring is carried out with pipes, with a diameter of up to one hundred and ten millimeters, with a slope of two degrees. Often it is done at five to seven degrees for a margin. But you need to be especially careful with this, since too much slope can lead to blockages, and a smaller one can lead to stagnation of drains.

It is best to lay pipes without turns and corners. On the internal wiring, fifty millimeters of diameter is enough. If there is more than one floor and if there are bathtubs above, the riser should be two hundred millimeters in diameter.

When deciding to install a sewer yourself, be sure to study SanPin and SNiP. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, initially you need to focus on finding their water sources and structures.

In no case should you proceed with the installation if the sewerage project has not been drawn up and calculated. Everything is done right here. It is best to entrust this work to specialists who will create a detailed design, taking into account every detail of the structure, its location, operation and climatic conditions.

With a high level of groundwater, sewage can be installed in the form of a sealed container for the accumulation of waste, an aeration station or a septic tank with a biofilter.

It is not difficult to conduct sewerage in a private house yourself. It is necessary to dilute the pipes for collecting effluent from various sources, connect them in the collector and lead through the base or under it to the septic tank. You can also do outdoor work with your own hands. But sometimes it is better to resort to the help of an escalator.

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