The climbing rose is a gorgeous flower for any landscape in the new photos! Climbing roses - what varieties are there, description with photo Trellis rose care

• Type: Rosaceae
• Flowering period: June, July
• Height: 5-15m
• Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, burgundy
• perennial
• Winters
• Sun-loving
• Moisture-loving

Summer residents adore rose bushes for their lush color and delicate aroma. Small bushes on the porch, flower beds along the path, an area near the gazebo or pool - delicate rose buds can decorate any part of the land. But nothing compares to climbing roses - luxurious perennials that can turn even an abandoned shack into a romantic corner. A magical carpet of fragrant flowers is ideal for vertical gardening, but it will be truly beautiful under one condition: if the climbing rose is properly planted and cared for. It is these procedures that we will talk about today.

Lushly flowering plants require special attention, and long vines with large velvet flowers are no exception. Only technically verified planting, careful fertilizing, timely pruning, protection of shrubs from pests and winter insulation guarantee full results - abundant flowering throughout the warm season.

Choosing a growing location

Roses love the sun very much and cannot stand wetlands, so the place where they are planted should be well ventilated and illuminated by sunlight. Also, plants develop worse if roses have already been planted in the planned location. It’s not bad if there is a room nearby suitable for winter storage of shrubs.

Lush shrubs are perfect for decorating old buildings, cabins, and utility rooms: flowering shoots successfully cover parts of the roof and walls

To prevent water from stagnating in the ground, the selected location must have at least a minimal slope. Waterlogging can occur due to close-lying groundwater. It should be borne in mind that the roots often reach two meters in length, and if there is a risk of high humidity, it is necessary to plant flowers at a higher elevation.

Sometimes rose bushes are planted near the walls of a building for the purpose of decorating them, which threatens to deplete the roots. To prevent this trouble, maintain a distance of 55-60 cm from the wall, as well as at least 50 cm from other plants. The peculiarity of climbing varieties is the presence of support, the role of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, specially created cones or pillars.

You can build a reliable support for a climbing rose with your own hands from several bars or boards, which are connected in the form of a lattice or cone

You can make a garden arch for roses with your own hands:

Optimal landing time

In the middle zone with a temperate climate, the best planting period is from the last ten days of September to the beginning of October. After one or two weeks, the plants produce the first roots, which have time to adapt before the onset of serious frosts. With the onset of spring, both the above-ground and root parts begin to actively develop, and by the time of flowering the bush gains full strength, not inferior in splendor to old plants.

When setting the time for planting climbing roses, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example, “Super Dorothy” blooms quite late, despite the early planting date

If planting is done in the spring, the development of flowers will be delayed by about 15 days, and such a climbing rose will require more careful care. Before planting in the ground, the seedling must be shortened by 2-3 buds. Beginner gardeners do it simpler: they buy their own rooted plants in containers at the nursery, and place them in the ground in late spring.

Initial processing of seedlings

You should seriously treat the seedlings before planting, otherwise their development will be defective. Preparation includes several manipulations:

• soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (only roots or the whole plant);
• pruning shoots and roots;
• dusting the cut areas with previously crushed charcoal;
• treating the roots with a useful mixture.

Pruning climbing roses should be understood as shortening several (3-5) strong shoots to a height of 15 cm; weaker shoots should be removed completely. The same is done with the root system: fragmented or long shoots are removed, leaving a small bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant will occur more actively, and during the flowering period the rose will produce numerous lush buds.

Proper preparation of seedlings is a sure guarantee that the plant will gain maximum strength and at the right time will be covered with lush color

Pruned and impregnated with fertilizers, seedlings receive a kind of immunity, thanks to which they quickly develop and bloom in lush colors.

One of the options for a mineral mixture for processing: a little clay, 1/10 part of mullein, phosphorobacterin (2-3 tablets per 10 liters of solution). You can use heteroauxin - just 1 tablet is enough.

Features of soil preparation

The ideal soil for rose bushes is loose loamy, permeable soil containing a fertile layer. Sand and heavy clay are completely unsuitable for growing flowers, so each of these types of soil must be diluted with the opposite. A little lime will make the soil crumbly and more suitable in chemical composition.

If the soil on the site is too acidic, liming is performed:

Heavy, fragrant, brightly colored buds are the first sign that the soil for the plant has been chosen correctly: it allows water and air to pass through well

To increase fertility, humus, humus, phosphorus fertilizers, and special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of summer, everything is dug up several times, and in the spring they do another shoveling.

Pit design: more freedom

The volume of the planting pit should be sufficient so that the young roots of the plant do not experience a shortage of free space. The optimal depth is 60-65 cm. The holes must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from one another, only in this case the root system will be able to develop freely. When planting a rose, the root collar is immersed in the soil by about 10-12 cm - thus, it is protected from frost in winter (with additional insulation).

When arranging a planting hole, it is necessary to take into account not only its size, but also its location relative to the support: nothing should interfere with the development of the roots of the plant

The roots are placed freely, carefully filling the voids between them. About 5 kg of peat compost or a similar nutrient mixture must be added to each hole. Fill the hole with soil to the level of the ground surface, and then trample it down a little. Further care for climbing roses involves timely feeding of fertilizer. The first is carried out immediately after landing. A mixture of phosphobacterin and heteroauxin is excellent for irrigation, or humates are an option.

To saturate the soil with microelements useful for the plant, it is mulched with humus, compost or humus, which can be easily prepared at the dacha with your own hands

If you want to create a rose garden on your site, then use not only climbing types of roses:

Garter and bush formation

By directing the young shoots, you can give the rose bush exactly the shape that was originally planned. To form a larger number of buds and abundant flowering, gartering of individual lashes is necessary. Typically, climbing species are used for vertical decoration, but this does not mean that all branches should be directed upward: with this arrangement, the bush will become poorer, and buds will appear only at the very top.

The solution is simple: several main branches need to be positioned horizontally, and to do this they need to be tied up. Each main lash will produce several side shoots growing upward, and most importantly - a whole cloud of lush flowers. This principle is good for decorating walls, high mesh fences, and pergolas.

Proper gartering of roses ensures the development of shoots in the desired direction: along a fence or arch, on top of a plane, around supports of various configurations

An excellent solution for a walking path is a suite of arches designed to be decorated with climbing roses and clematis, which have already been planted and will soon begin to grow.

Another popular way of arranging shoots is “fan”, when the side shoots freely extend upward and to the sides without interfering with each other. For braiding a pillar or arch, a “spiral” is more suitable, when the lashes twist around the support. Regardless of the location of the shoots, you should not neglect the care of climbing roses, and this applies not only to regular pruning, watering and fertilizing, but also to preparation for frost.

Weak shoots and old lashes are cut off, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are carefully collected into a large bundle, tied, tilted towards the ground and secured in this position with pegs. Finally, cover with spruce paws. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with a mixture of soil and peat, and covered with agrofibre or dense film on top.

Single rose bushes are covered separately, and those growing nearby can be insulated using a large piece of agrofibre, covering several bushes at once

The second method resembles the first, but the lashes remain tied to the support. It is used in regions with milder climates. The shoots are covered with the same spruce branches, and the top is hermetically wrapped with film. High-quality covering material and properly performed insulation guarantee the safety of the rose bush until the spring thaw.

In addition to pruning and covering, roses also need other procedures before wintering:

Only by fulfilling these requirements can you hope for good flowering.

Beautiful, well-groomed... In a word, not a garden, but a photo from a magazine. Do you dream about this? Select a corner for a rose garden on your property. Create it according to your own design, without involving a designer in the design. How to make a rose garden at the dacha with your own hands - read the article.

Types and styles of rosaries

To create a perennial flower garden of roses that will delight you for many years, decide on a goal. Think about what you would like to see in this corner, what mood you want to be charged from it. Before you make a rose garden with your own hands, look at photos of different flower beds and choose the one that suits you. There are several types of design:

• Romantic. This flower garden looks good near the gazebo. Consists of roses in delicate shades. In combination with tall plants, it creates an atmosphere of comfort and tranquility;

Romantic rose garden

• Front. As the name suggests, these are festive compositions with bright, often contrasting colors. Greenery looks very elegant and advantageous here;

Ceremonial rose garden

• Visible on one side. Suitable for small areas. As an option, place it near a wall or a fence. For example, place tall park roses in the background. Closer to the edges there are medium-sized climbing plants, in the foreground there are groundcovers;

Rosary visible from one side

• Visible from different angles. Flowers for this rose garden should be planted from the center to the edges. The tallest plants will be inside; they need to be surrounded by medium-sized roses. The composition should be completed by low-growing varieties;

Rosary visible from different angles

• Vertical. Climbing perennial varieties of roses will perfectly decorate an arch or gazebo, eventually completely covering them;

Vertical rose garden

Advice. Remember that roses cannot grow in the desired direction on their own. Do this manually, using supports and garters. Form the weave according to your idea.

• Rose garden-rock garden. Ground cover varieties are used for it. They bloom profusely and are easy to care for. Roses of this type grow well, so they quickly create a fragrant, colorful carpet. A beautiful ensemble is obtained from a combination of roses and stones on an alpine hill;

Rose garden-rock garden

• Mobile. The name speaks for itself: this is a mobile rose garden that can be arranged in containers or flowerpots. Looks harmonious along paths, at the entrance, best in a sunny place. For such a flower garden, choose low, abundantly flowering varieties of roses. After planting, provide drainage, do not forget about watering and fertilizing. For the winter, put the containers in a heated room.

Mobile rose garden

In addition, decide on the style of your future rose garden. The most common in modern design are:

Landscape rose garden

How to design a rosary

Having decided on the location, type and style of the rose garden, draw up a plan diagram. It will help you visualize the final version of the flower garden. To begin, mark on the diagram the boundaries of the future kingdom of roses. You can use borders or low-growing flowers for them.

To prevent different plants from interfering with each other, decide on the sizes and varieties. Look at photos of blooming roses and choose your favorite ones. Write down their names and label them with numbers on the diagram. Mark where you are going to allocate space for short people and where for tall people.

Layout of the rosary

Which corners will be occupied by perennial flowers, and where new bushes will need to be planted annually is another aspect of the plan. Mark on the diagram the areas where you want to plant certain groups of roses. Consider whether their color combination will be harmonious.

Advice. In order for groups of plants that are inharmonious in color to “coexist” in one rose garden, dilute them with varieties with white inflorescences. Do not combine warm shades (cream, orange) with cold shades (burgundy, cherry).

Before you make a rose garden with your own hands, decide where and what crops will be planted as background ones. Consider whether perennial shrubs or stone compositions fit into the ensemble you have created. Look at various photos with diagrams and draw up your plan on paper.

How to make a rose garden with your own hands. Instructions

1. Prepare the area. It should be sunny, but not windy, free from debris and weeds. “Flower Queens” love well-drained soil, never clayey. The ideal option is to take care of the soil in advance, around mid-summer, in order to plant roses in the fall. To do this, dig up the soil (approximate depth is 60 cm), loosen the top layer and apply fertilizer. In 2-3 months you will get good soil suitable for roses.

   

   Garden tools for creating a rose garden with your own hands

2. Make holes. Their depth is approximately 10 cm greater than the length of the roots (50-60 cm), width - from 25 cm to 1.5 m (depending on the variety). If the groundwater level in your area is more than 1 m, you can do without drainage. Otherwise, place small stones, gravel or expanded clay at the bottom of each hole, and sprinkle a little earth on top.

   

   Preparing holes for planting roses

3. Prepare the seedlings. Cut the roots to a length of 30 cm, remove damaged ones. Shorten the part that remains above the ground to 2-3 strong shoots. There should be no leaves on the cuttings.

   

   Seedling prepared for planting in open ground

4. Remove the bush from the container or pot and plant it after moistening it. This is necessary so that the earthen lump does not crumble. Depending on the growing conditions, seedlings are distinguished:
   • with a closed root system (initially, each sprout was planted in a separate container in which it grew);
   • with an open root system (such specimens grew in the field and were placed in containers immediately before sale).

   

   Diagram: the process of planting rose bushes

5. Based on this, there are differences when landing. Bushes with a closed root system are simply lowered vertically into the hole and evenly covered with earth (to do this, they need to be shaken periodically). For seedlings of the second type, you should first make a small mound in the dug hole. A bush is placed on it and covered with earth. In both cases, make sure that the roots do not bend upward.
6. After planting, compact the soil and loosen the top layer. Water the seedlings.

   

   Bush after planting in the ground

Rules for caring for a rose garden

Regardless of which rose garden you prefer (romantic or rock garden), do not forget to regularly water the bushes for 2 weeks after planting. For the winter, you need to cover the holes with earth (20-30 cm) or cover the shoots with sawdust and sand. To prevent the soil from drying out, mulch it.

Watering rose bushes

Apply organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Weed and prune roses in summer, spring, and after flowering. If you are grafting plants, remove any wild growth. Form bushes in a timely manner. For tall varieties, place supports.

Combinations of roses with other plants

If you decide not to create a rose garden exclusively with roses, think about the flowers that will grow next to them. After all, the overall appearance of your flower garden will depend on how successful the combination turns out to be. Choose your shrub border carefully. It will hide their lower, non-flowering part. For example, for a rose garden in a romantic style, a green or silver frame made of boxwood or chistets is suitable.

Rose bushes next to other crops

For a vibrant rose garden, add greens, gold or purple to the border. Barberry, aster, and santolina are suitable for this. Good neighbors for the “queen of flowers”:

• perennial plants - irises, carnations, periwinkle, primrose;
• annuals - pansies, salvia, begonia, delphinia.

Advice. To protect against pests and diseases, it is worth planting marigolds, lavender or sage next to roses.

Roses look beautiful with plants that are not afraid of shade: hosta or heuchera. The climbers will be accompanied by clematis. Any ground cover plants are suitable for a rock garden. In combination with stones on a hill in a rose garden, ferns or conifers look advantageous.

Landscape composition with rose

Of course, designing a rosary requires a lot of work and considerable time. But the result is worth it. You will be reminded of this every year by the colorful blooms and aroma of the flower garden, lovingly created by your hands.

How to create a rose garden: video

Rose garden on a summer cottage: photo

Of course, rose is one of the most popular flowers. And not in vain, because everyone likes its delicate appearance and pleasant aroma. Any gardener knows that this plant will perfectly decorate a summer cottage.

However, the climbing rose can cope with this better than all other varieties. How to grow it correctly so that it is lush and luxurious?

Choosing a place for a climbing rose

The climbing rose is very sun-loving, so the place for growing it should be well lit and ventilated; it is better to choose an area with a slight slope.

Many gardeners plant roses near the walls of buildings to improve their appearance. This can be done at a distance of approximately 60 centimeters from the wall and 50 centimeters from other plants. This way the bush will grow and develop without problems.

In addition, climbing roses need additional support. This could be, for example, a pillar, arch, wall, fence, mesh or anything else.

When to plant climbing rose?

In regions of Russia with a temperate climate, it is recommended to plant roses in September or early October. As a rule, the first roots appear before the first frost, approximately 1–2 weeks after planting. In spring, not only roots, but also above-ground shoots begin to actively grow. At the first flowering, the rose is already lush.

Some gardeners plant climbing roses in the spring, then they need more careful care. Before planting, such a plant must be shortened by 2-3 buds.

How to prepare seedlings for planting?

Your rose will grow healthy and beautiful if you follow the following procedures before planting:

• soak the roots, or better yet the whole plant, in water for about a day;
• trim the plant on both sides and treat the cut areas with charcoal. The shoots are shortened to a height of 15 centimeters. Weak roots are removed, and long ones are trimmed so that a small bunch remains;
• additionally treat the roots with a special product. For example, a mineral mixture of clay, heteroauxin, mullein and phosphorobacterin.

What soil is suitable for climbing roses?

For roses, you should choose loose, moisture-permeable, fertile soil with a small clay content. You can loosen the soil by adding lime, and humus or phosphorus fertilizers will make it more fertile.

At the end of the summer season and in the spring, the area should be dug up.

How to prepare holes for planting?

The climbing rose has fairly long roots, so the depth of the hole should be large - up to 65 centimeters. Maintain a distance of approximately one meter between holes.

The root of the rose is freely immersed to 10-12 centimeters, and a nutrient mixture should be added under it. Then the hole is filled in and the soil is lightly trampled down. Immediately after this, it is necessary to fertilize the fresh plant, for example, with a mixture of heteroauxin and phosphobacterin.

How to tie a rose correctly?

You choose what shape to give your flowers. If roses grow vertically along your support, several powerful branches should be placed horizontally.

This way the plant will bloom more luxuriantly. This design is suitable for walls or fences.

To design some supports, a fan-shaped arrangement of branches is suitable. With this option, the stems of roses grow both upward and to the sides. A pillar or arch is often entwined with branches in a circle in one direction, that is, in a spiral.

How to prepare a climbing rose for winter?

The climbing rose must be properly prepared for winter, because it cannot stand the cold at all. If your region has a fairly warm winter, then cover the roses for the winter with spruce branches and then wrap them in film.

If you have cold winters, then you need to take more serious measures. Trim all the leaves and remove all weak shoots of the plant, leaving 10–12 pieces is enough.

Tie them together, press them to the ground and secure them. It is also recommended to cover the roses with spruce branches or thick film on top. Insulate the bases of the roses with a mixture of soil and peat.

Some may think that caring for a climbing rose is too difficult. This is wrong. Follow these simple recommendations, and your garden will always bloom luxuriously and give a wonderful aroma.

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this marvelous flower in open ground will be discussed step by step in this article. Proper planting is the key to abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the climbing variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, successfully disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with its presence by a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color range of this type of rose is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. The bud sizes can range from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering vary, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once-flowering species and repeat-flowering ones.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can emit a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance; some have a barely audible, subtle and gentle scent.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a location

This culture will thrive in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by soil that is unsuitable for climbing roses, be sure to dilute it with something suitable. Thus, sand is added to clayey soil, and clay is added to sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm); in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it doesn’t work out any other way, then before planting you need to replace the top layer of soil (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that in the chosen location groundwater does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold weather, the roots will have time to take root in the new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 °C; catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April/first weeks of May are the most optimal times for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose, when is it better in spring or autumn

Let me make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from those in autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will lag a little behind in development and will require increased attention from you. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches to about 20 cm in length, and the roots too, to 30 cm.
• Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, and lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downward and do not bend upward!
• Planting a climbing rose in spring involves adding nutritious soil to the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, of peat compost, will please your rose.
• After planting, trample the soil a little and water it abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a drug with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, “Phosphobacterin”, to the water for this first watering. The phytohormone “Heteroauxin” is also perfect.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic film - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. Whether to do this or not is up to you; if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film every day and gradually increase the ventilation time every day. After stable warm weather has established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose bought in a store in spring?

Today in flower shops you can purchase seedlings of climbing roses with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with bare roots should be planted in the ground immediately. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated; if they are light green in color, then it is better to refrain from purchasing.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, sickly, and unlikely to survive the winter.

You should also pay close attention to the grafting sites; a correctly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “joint” site, which promotes fusion. If the grafting site peels and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting climbing roses from the store in spring, stages:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots and place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we remove it too; shoots that are too long can be pinched. Don’t forget to powder the cut areas with powdered charcoal or activated carbon.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system can be carefully examined. You can first add the stimulant “Kornevin” to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. What the pit should be like and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been discussed a little higher. Water the rose thoroughly with water.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more soil (hill up). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored fabric - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In hot weather and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil away from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day so that the plant does not subsequently experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried approximately 10 cm into the soil.

During the growing season, climbing roses require generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the bush has formed, the plant should be watered every 10 days. In this case, the water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper; 10-12 liters per bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both overmoistening and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so maintain a middle ground in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite demanding when it comes to feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with complex mineral fertilizer, for example, “Agricola-Rosa” (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - “Ideal” or “Flower” fertilizer. You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting mixture right to the root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of the drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemicals, you can simply ruin it.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year of planting

How does it differ from standard requirements? Its further development and splendor of flowering depend on proper care in the first year of a plant’s life. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If the days are sunny, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days have passed after removing the hilling soil, you can begin the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the side branches of the second order, a similar procedure needs to be done, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after these manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Is a climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be hilled, then the climbing variety must be completely covered - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods; in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to select 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, wrap them with twine and carefully tilt them towards the ground. Using metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend them), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud as described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care activity needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant’s life, branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (select 1 or 2) are cut off completely; later they will be successfully replaced by young basal shoots. If these processes are not present, then approximately 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacement basal branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where new powerful growth began to form; subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short branches-peduncles are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up the pruning shears when the buds on the branches below begin to swell (last weeks of April/early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than expected. If you miss the time for pruning, the plant will devote all its energy to forming new branches and foliage, and flowering will be scanty.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, tearing off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes obvious after the bushes open in the spring. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and gets sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by replanting. The best time to perform this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to its new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place in the spring is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of the roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the above-ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug up (moving in a circle), approximately 50-60 cm are retreated from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, it is better that the hole is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When replanting, the same rules are followed as during standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downwards, the free space in the hole is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly compacted and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add more soil (it will settle slightly) and hill up your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with replanting roses - they belong to the groups of climbers and ramblers. Let me make a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing roses are called climbing roses; they produce coarse and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. The shoots of climbers are not very flexible; when replanting, they must be cut to half their entire length!

Ramblers are climbing roses with flexible and soft shoots, lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when replanting, all shoots that are more than two years old are pruned. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch off the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if seed material is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, independently collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your dacha or garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. This disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in subsequent stages of growing the plant. After that, we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover the top with a similar layer of cotton wool, which is also soaked in peroxide.

We place the resulting “sandwich” in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds and replace the cotton layers with new ones (also soaked in hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already sprouted seed can be carefully transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything correctly, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new stock is planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the easiest method of reproduction, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, you can use already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment must have at least two internodes; the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the bud. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves of the cutting are cut off, and the upper leaves are cut in half. Place the cutting in a prepared container with sand or a mixture of sand and soil, deepen it by about 1-2 cm, cover it with a glass jar on top and put it in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the jars) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small bed-ditch about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the ditch, and sprinkle it with the same layer of soil on top. Now we carefully bend the shoot, place it in the groove and fix it with metal staples. Then we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top facing outward. Then we take care of the bush as usual, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place where the shoot is buried. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) onto rose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, rose hips should be generously watered.

An incision is made in the bark in the shape of the letter “T” right on the root collar of the shrub, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. An eye cut from a climbing rose is placed in this kind of “pocket”. The eye needs to be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we press the eye tightly to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (available freely in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is hilled up, and so that the soil rises above the grafting site by 5 cm (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring it is removed for good.

The climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. 7 factors that influence the absence of flowers in climbing roses were experimentally determined.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Rose sawfly caterpillar on a rose
Rose affected by spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches manually, after wearing gardening gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Shar Pei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called traditional methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate the rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.

Spider mites love heat and drought; a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence of an uninvited guest. Old methods of control using thick tobacco infusion or wormwood infusion give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes treating roses twice with this preparation is enough for the mite to lose its position. The bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" has also proven itself in this matter.

According to reviews from experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works well against the roseate sawfly. The preparations “Actellik” and “Phosbecid” (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show good results, which apply not only to the sawfly, but also to other “lovers” of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about spring and autumn spraying roses with Bordeaux mixture - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial canker, gray rot, powdery mildew, koniothyrium (bark burn).

Powdery mildew
Bacterial cancer

Some diseases have no cure (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of developing the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most commonly recommended preventive measures.

Koniothyrium infection can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (including healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate; the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux mixture or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also be involved in the matter while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and then burning them, abundantly irrigating the plant with a solution of iron sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux mixture (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is for his favorite flowers to delight the eye with lush buds for as long as possible and to withstand the winter. It is simply unrealistic to mention all the winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them and briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name; its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Repeated flowering is a distinctive feature of this rose; it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can entwine an arch or wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, is low-maintenance, repeat-blooming, and has a light nutmeg aroma. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, and blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

Characterized by wave-like flowering, approximately five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot in color, gradually turning into a cream color. It loves sunlit places, has good disease resistance, and can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns and a weak aroma.

Photo of climbing rose variety “Polka”:

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of rich red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets; they are very fragrant and remain fresh for a long time.

Variety “Don Juan”, photo:

Variety "Flamentanz"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of the red color. Its buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petaled. It has increased frost resistance; powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of roses is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white and pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, approximately 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, you should be wary of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

A small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, is disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (approximately 4.5 cm in diameter), externally reminiscent of cherry blossoms. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that the foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of rose variety “Bobby James”:

Climbing rose “Golden Perfume”

A repeat-blooming variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. The large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. The shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with the yellow flowers.

Variety “Golden Perfume”, photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy repeat-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. The luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, and is resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the “Parade” variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety characterized by increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, sophisticated aroma. The variety is hardy, repeat-flowering, and resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Variety "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. A multi-petaled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety “Casino”, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices.” Follow all the above recommendations and carefully choose a place of residence for your rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with strong roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide it with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in open ground, the nuances of propagation and replanting, a rough idea of ​​individual varieties - you now know all this and will be able to apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article: