Owners of planing machines and electric planers periodically face the problem of sharpening cutting edges. A well-sharpened tool will ensure clean wood processing even at imperfect angles and speeds. The easiest way is to sharpen knives and knife heads with your own hands using specialized equipment.

Sharpening knives is essential

sharpening of a planer knife

Planing knives require timely care because:

• blunt surfaces handle wood poorly;
• when processing soft rocks with blunt knives, the surface is covered with pile and irregularities;
• worn edges crumble;
• during planing with blunt edges, the engine and power units are overloaded.

Attempts to sharpen the blades with your own hands using diamond stones, as a rule, give a short-term result. Due to poor-quality dressing, the blade has to be resharpened soon. Therefore, professional carpenters use only mechanical sharpening.

Types and designs of machines

The machines on the market are distinguished by the knife feed mechanism:

Sharpening machine planing knives manual feed consists of:

• grounds;
• abrasive stone;
• carriages for fixing the knife.

During processing, the cutter moves progressively with the handle. The transverse movement of the torch is provided by the handwheel.

Automatic machines differ in size and range of options. Machines for industrial applications are mounted on a heavy-duty cast iron bed. The carriage is equipped with a support. You can set the speed of movement of the blade and the thickness of the removed layer of metal. Industrial machines allow you to sharpen several planing blades at the same time without changing the settings.

Every carpenter knows that a well-sharpened tool is the key to high-quality material processing. I offer a device for sharpening straight planing knives.

I install the device along with the abrasive wheel on a vertical milling machine. The fixture consists of a bottom and top plate. On the top there is a holder for sharpened knives. The bottom plate is fixed to the machine table with clamps through the screwed corners. Both plates are connected on one side by hinges.

The planer knife holder consists of clamps and a 50 × 50 mm angle, which I cut so as to withstand a sharpening angle of 40 degrees. This makes the cutting edge strong.

To avoid damage to the abrasive tool when touching the part, I lower it to a depth of no more than 10 microns. To raise the top plate, I use a wedge lifting device consisting of a wedge, thrust plates and a lead screw. When rotated by the handle of the lead screw left-right, the wedge moves, and the upper plate rises or falls.

You can sharpen one or more knives by sliding the holder left and right on the top plate.

Knife sharpener

Nikolay Panasik, Volkovysk.

Knife sharpener - a necessary tool on the farm

The household always has cutting, sawing and planing tools. In the course of work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives - planers to the workshop, but money is spent on it, and it takes too much time. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool with their own hands.

Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness higher than 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a knife sharpener or other household utensil from the store. Save time but waste considerable amount- good sharpenings are expensive.


By the way, there are different opinions about the name of the knife sharpening device. Emery, a touchstone, a whetstone, a sharpener, a grind ...

Can these definitions refer to the same item, or different products? We will tell you about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.

Since the appearance of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), people have been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Age, it was easy.

Homemade knife sharpener made by hand. The knife cuts the paper like a razor! A simple design is available for making at home.

Soft metals can be straightened with any stone. With the advent of steel blades, special rocks, usually of volcanic origin, were used for sharpening.

Some of them are still in use today: the American "Arkansas" and the Japanese "water stone". These are expensive fixtures, which is why most craftsmen use artificial emery.

A simple sharpening stone can sharpen both the knife and the cutting edge of the planer. However, the quality will leave much to be desired.

The golden rule of sharpening: Each blade has its own edge angle, and it should not change along its entire length.

This principle lies in the design of all sharpening devices. By following this rule, you can make such a device yourself.

Tool for sharpening knives with your own hands - drawings, varieties

In order for the edge of the blade to be processed evenly, several conditions are necessary:

1. Fixation of the blade, at the same time reliable and without undue stress. Metal should not be damaged in a vice
2. Setting a specific angle for the bar. When moving along the edge of the knife, the angle should not change
3. The ability to set different sharpening angles. You can cut a variety of tools, and some types of knives have a stepped structure.

Linear bar sharpening device

For manufacturing you will need:

• Plywood or laminated chipboard
• Full length threaded steel rod, diameter 6-8 mm
• A piece of textolite or ebonite. Can be replaced with solid wood - beech, oak
• Aluminum plate 3-5mm thick
• Fasteners - bolts, nuts (preferably wing nuts)
• Neodymium magnet from an old computer HDD.

We assemble a frame from plywood, resting on the legs at an angle of 15 ° -20 °. In the part below, we twist a hairpin 30-40 cm long. For strength, you can fix the thread with glue or sealant.


We fix an aluminum plate in the middle of the working surface. First, we make a groove in it, according to the diameter of the fixing bolt. Why aluminum? In order not to damage the steel blade of the knife.

We make a lever for securing the emery. It is assembled from the rest of the hairpin. Cut out the bar holders from two textolite blocks. On one side, the stop is fixed with a nut.


From the side of the handle, it is more convenient to make a spring-loaded block - for a quick change of emery.

We use homemade bars as the main element - glue sandpaper with different grain sizes on an aluminum plate. Such devices are easily fixed in the lever.


The design feature is a hinge with two degrees of freedom. It is assembled from two identical pieces of PCB. One is screwed onto a vertical pin, and serves simultaneously as a horizontal pivot axis and a lever support height adjuster (this is how the sharpening angle is set).

The second bar, with a horizontal hole for the lever, is screwed to the first. This ensures free vertical movement of the lever.


The knife can be clamped with a plate, or mounted on a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse emery, the blade should be firmly fixed.

For finishing, you can install the blade on a magnet and sharpen it with low effort. The horseshoe of the magnet should be sunk flush with the table top and glued with epoxy glue.


The homemade knife sharpener is ready. We set the required angle of attack, and sharpen the edge with smooth movements along the blade.

The same principle is used in the electric knife sharpener.

Electric emery not only speeds up the work, but also allows you to obtain a high-quality concave profile of the blade edge. This is the so-called fractional sharpening. It will not work to get such a shape on a linear bar, therefore these two devices do not replace, but complement each other.

Important! If, when working with a manual sharpening device, you completely control the intensity of the process, then a high speed of rotation of the emery wheel can ruin the knife.

From friction, the metal on the tip heats up, hardening "tempering" occurs. Steel loses its hardness and is grinded with torn edges. Another problem is that the “released” knife quickly loses its sharpness. Therefore, you should work carefully on the electric grinder. Bring the blade for a short time, and take breaks to cool down.

DIY knife sharpener - video with explanations and an example of manufacturing

In this mode, it is difficult to maintain a constant angle, so the knife must be fixed.


The design is quite simple - along the axis of rotation of the emery there is a guide along which the carriage with a knife moves. The angle is maintained mechanically and the force is determined by the operator.

The device is easy to do with your own hands - and it is not necessary to perform precise work on the processing of metal parts. The guide is made literally from the foot material.


On the workbench, next to the sharpener, guides are attached, with which you can change the distance from the knife stop to the rotating circle. This distance defines the sharpening angle. The vertical bar should have free up and down movement with a firm fixation of the position.


The knife is held horizontally, pressing against the stop. The force of contact with the emery is regulated directly during sharpening. Processing is symmetrical, you just change the side of the knife and sharpen at the same angle.


This method is only suitable for processing classic knives. Kitchen, hunting, tourist. The cutting planes of other tools require a different approach.

Construction for sharpening knives, say a jointer:


A specialized emery is used, with an end working surface. The slide for the carriage is located at the bottom, away from the axis of rotation.

It is in this part of the disc that the abrasive works most efficiently. The guide with the cutting element is moved manually, the clamp is provided by the knife's own weight.

Drawings of all structural elements are shown in the illustration.

This machine was used almost 100 years ago and the technology has not changed since then. The simplicity of execution allows you to repeat the device in your home workshop. Any materials - metal, plastic, wood.


Instead of cutting elements of a jointer, you can sharpen ice ax knives for winter fishing. Only the angle is shallower. The scissor attachment works the same way. The design (like the emery wheel) is significantly smaller in size.

You can also use electric emery and a locking carriage to sharpen chisels and planer knives. However, these tools are compact and can be handled by a mechanical attachment.

There are two equivalent ways - along the edge, and across. The quality of processing is about the same, so you cannot give priority to a specific device.
The factory product assumes a lateral blade dressing.


By analogy, we make a carriage from thick plywood. We use any rollers as guides, preferably more than two. By moving the machine over the emery, you can give the edge of the chisel the perfect shape.


If you do not need serious sharpening, a simpler device is also suitable for minor edits. Attach a block with the desired angle of inclination to the chisels. Place an emery and a piece of glass next to it. Apply soapy water to the glass.


The effectiveness of the device will pleasantly surprise you.

And for transverse sharpening, an equally simple device can be made. The guide is also a support. The blade is vertically mounted on the movable part. The only drawback is that the angle is fixed and determined during manufacture.


True, unlike a knife, deviation from the ideal is not so critical.

The same device is suitable for sharpening planer knives. Only because of the width of the blade, the process is quite laborious. Therefore, you can use an electric sandpaper with an end work surface.

The emphasis is made of a wooden block. It is only necessary to provide a change in the angle. The clamp is provided by the operator, and it is possible to perform a semicircular sharpening - carpenters will appreciate this option.


Of course, with the same device it is convenient to tidy up the edge of the chisel. Considering the high productivity, you will recover the tool even after serious chipping.

Homemade device for sharpening knives and tools from a grinder

When you again manually rub with a knife on an old whetstone - remember this article, and create a homemade grinder for your home workshop.

Homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands: diagram, instructions, manufacturing features

Every man in the house will benefit from a handy tool for sharpening knives with his own hands. Indeed, often the owner is judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape will be sufficient.

To repair expensive hunter knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of hard bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe how to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine.

Why are knives dull?

What is the reason why the knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that abrasive particles, which are present in the cut material, have a negative effect on the cutting edge. For example, they are present on vegetables, paper. Speaking simple language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position constantly. Any tremor of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

Sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists in unified, but at the same time rather laborious methods. The main task is to repair the damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and peace of mind.

The basic rule in this process is to maintain a precisely defined constant angle. Strength is not required here. The main thing is that the bar and the blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of sharpening technique.

What do you need to do to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a conventional marker. They should paint over the carts and, after several sharpening cycles, see how the paint is preserved. If it has worn off unevenly, then the blade is not well processed.

If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then glue the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you unsuccessfully guide your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

An important point is that the direction of the blade along the bar is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to accomplish. It is acceptable that the angle between the edge and the blade is less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the bar can leave grooves on the blade that will never sharpen, but will play a positive role during cutting. If the grooves are aligned along the cutting edge, they will not be useful in cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge can break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for a diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of getting the blade outside the device. This can damage the side surface or the blade.

Making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands

Homemade knife sharpeners come in a variety of designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is the availability of the right material and skills in working with the tools.

The principle of operation of such a device as a manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands is to hold the knife blade in an upright position and drive it along a bar fixed at the desired angle. This is much easier than placing a sharpening bar horizontally and holding the knife at the correct angle.

In order to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden rail, sandpaper and a couple of bots with lambs. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a substitute for laminate.

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off part of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should clean its edge at an angle using emery.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top of the vertical post, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle is chosen two times less than that with which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives, it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, the drawings of which are deliberately drawn up, assumes the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the cross support. After that, all parts are cut off, and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate to hold down the bolts that hold the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is bolted.

The uprights are secured with screws. The moment that the load on the bottom is small is also taken into account. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. In exactly this way, the horizontal bar is attached. The sharpener is almost ready. It remains to make a bar.

For its manufacture, a rail of the required length is cut. Sandpaper with the desired size of abrasive is glued to one edge. To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The best range is P600 - P2000. In order to protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top of the rail.

The result is a homemade do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands is of a different type. In this case, it is based on a threaded rod M8. Two large washers and nuts are used to hold the 200 mm long bar.

Heat shrink tubing covers the threads. A pair of paper clips serve to hold the rail stand at the desired height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of a beam, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by a hand.

How to sharpen planing knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a plane or a planer, probably faced the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be sharpened with ease with your own hands. In this case, specialized machines or sharpening stones are used. If the planer is used constantly, then it would be better to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine.

DIY planer knife sharpening machine

To sharpen the planer knife, use special grinding equipment. The do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.

Many are interested in how to make a machine for sharpening knives with their own hands. To make a device, you need to find certain parts. Perhaps such parts are lying around in your shed or garage. They can also be purchased online.

The do-it-yourself planer knife sharpening machine consists of:

First of all, you should find a faceplate. This is the most important component of the future equipment. It is she who is responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate serves as a guarantor of a complete and safe sharpening. This part will have to be bought new, but the rest can be used with the old ones.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find an engine, the power of which should be 1-1.5 kW. It is not necessary to buy it. Anyone will do, even from an old washing machine. But a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner will surely be found in everyone.

The main stages of manufacturing the device

When the table is selected, the engine is anchored directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the driving part. The engine should initially be equipped with a button that enables the unit to turn on and off. It should fit comfortably.

For reliable protection, the faceplate is closed with a square-shaped casing with one cut-out corner. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

On the lower surface of the table in the area of ​​the sharpening passage, a hole is made of the same diameter as that of the vacuum cleaner hose. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from the blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the motor under the base of the faceplate is optional. You can make the parts connect with a belt. In this case, the design will be complex.

The do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Sharpening the ice screw

Sharp blades of an ice screw enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the waters of the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tool becomes dull and requires sharpening.

For fishermen, a quality ice screw is a great pride. Often, true competitions in the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And not always the victory smiles at young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported devices. There are times when experienced fishermen equipped with simple Soviet-made tools turn out to be the winner in the competition. The reason for the high speed of drilling the hole lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct setting of the device. Newbie anglers, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye as their knives become dull. The smallest grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways... Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional is. grinding machine... In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made fixtures.

Homemade ice screw machine: what is needed to make it?

For the manufacture of such a device as a machine for sharpening ice screw knives with your own hands, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.

Progress

First, you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed against the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making the arc from the same steel strip, the pressure plate is bent, which serves as a lock for the sharpened knives

Holes are drilled in the housing and the pressure plate for M12 or M14 bolts. Having pulled the body and the pressure plate by means of a bolt and a nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adhesion to the surface of the end of the emery circle.

If the knives are not at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the arc of the body on both sides.

Sharpening of knives is carried out better on an emery stone that rotates horizontally. In this case, when the knives are wetted with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Submerge your knives in the water more often. This will help prevent overheating of the steel.

Minus device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles of the cutting chamfer. But each manufacturer of ice augers offers its own models. In this case, a universal device will do.

Making a universal device for sharpening an ice screw

The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any angle of the cutting edge. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, it is possible to fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grinding stone.

To make this device, you need to find a door shed with minimal backlash, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the shoulders of the canopy. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them by means of screws).

A fixing plate with a slot for the fixing screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.

It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes of which does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the shoulders for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has greater versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Gadgets such as planers and planers are often seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any others, are dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen planer knives with your own hands. For the manufacture of grinding equipment at home, various materials will be required: metal, aluminum or wood.

The knife holder can be made from a piece of wood. Having made cuts at 45 degrees using a circular saw, you can sharpen the knives with a belt sander or with a large bar. If the latter is not there, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.

Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The best solution would be to use metal corners that have an indicator of 90 degrees. By placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. With the help of screws, you can fix the knives with the second corner.

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Pribluda for sharpening jointer-planer knives

Good day.
I decided to revive the dull knives for the R-102 plane, and at the same time think about the future sharpening of knives for the planer-planer Caliber SSR-1280.
I don’t have a sharpener for these purposes, but I’m too lazy to re-sharpen it.
I searched foreign websites on the Internet, and found such a useful device.

37 yea the toad did not give, so I decided to build a similar device from scrap materials. I am attaching the drawing. Luckily for me, old projects left pieces of a board sawn lengthwise at 45 degrees (I didn't have to unpack the sawing machine). In the nearest hardware store I bought the following:
bolt М6х50 - 3 pcs.
bolt М6х100 - 1 piece
wing nut М6 - 5 pcs.
nut - barrel (coupling) M6 - 1 pc.
sandpaper 4 sheets (100, 180, 2x800 grits)

The total came out to 49 rubles.

Sharpening of the planer knives was complicated by the fact that the native sharpening was made with a noticeable concavity. Therefore, I had to sharpen it for a long time and dreary on a coarse skin, until I leveled it. To speed up the process, I decided to sacrifice the sharpening angle and make it more blunt, about 45 degrees, which is the most for pine.
The concavity, by the way, turned out to be different from different sides of the knife. The other side had to be sharpened less, at once 30-40 razikov walked along the 800th skin - and it was ready.
Yes! I didn't have a suitable glass, but there was an old Soviet countertop from a kitchen table with a plastic coating - quite flat for the intended villainy.

In general, such a device will be useful for you to bring slightly dull knives (3-4 times you can probably), and then you still need to give it to a professional resharpening (if, in this regard, your hands, like mine, do not quite grow from there).

Registration: 10/29/2005 Moscow Posts: 9197

09/08/2009 at 13:50

Goryn wrote.
I decided to revive the dull knives for the R-102 plane

this is included with the Makita plane.

Registration: 03/18/2009 St. Petersburg Posts: 34

05.10.2009 at 12:21

So there on Aglitsky, but in Russian you can, I would buy this.

Registration: 19.11.2007 Kogalym Posts: 17

07.10.2009 at 20:49

How to sharpen carbide-tipped circular saw teeth?

Registration: 01/20/2010 Roslavl Posts: 27

01/20/2010 at 22:20

In general, an industrial (electric) knife sharpening machine is quite easy to repeat and it seems to me more justified and accurate in work. It is an adjustable table with a knife attachment on the edge of the table, an electric motor with a grinding stone moves parallel to the table along the guides (the position of the working surface of the stone can be adjusted in height), the accuracy of work and the speed are amazing.

Owners of planing machines and electric planers periodically face the problem of sharpening cutting edges. A well-sharpened tool will ensure clean wood processing even at imperfect angles and speeds. The easiest way is to sharpen knives and knife heads with your own hands using specialized equipment.

Sharpening knives is essential

sharpening of a planer knife

Planing knives require timely care because:

• blunt surfaces handle wood poorly;
• when processing soft rocks with blunt knives, the surface is covered with pile and irregularities;
• worn edges crumble;
• during planing with blunt edges, the engine and power units are overloaded.

Attempts to sharpen the blades with your own hands using diamond stones, as a rule, give a short-term result. Due to poor-quality dressing, the blade has to be resharpened soon. Therefore, professional carpenters use only mechanical sharpening.

Types and designs of machines

The machines on the market are distinguished by the knife feed mechanism:

The hand-fed planer knife sharpening machine consists of:

• grounds;
• abrasive stone;
• carriages for fixing the knife.

During processing, the cutter moves progressively with the handle. The transverse movement of the torch is provided by the handwheel.

Automatic machines differ in size and range of options. Machines for industrial applications are mounted on a heavy-duty cast iron bed. The carriage is equipped with a support. You can set the speed of movement of the blade and the thickness of the removed layer of metal. Industrial machines allow you to sharpen several planing blades at the same time without changing the settings.

	Corvette K-470	WTG-163	GA-630	GA-850	ZX-1000
Maximum length of knives, mm	630	630	640	850	1000
Abrasive disc diameter, mm	100	150	125	125
Sharpening angle, degrees	35…55	up to 30	35…45	35…45	Up to 30
Engine power, W	550	550	850	850	1500
Dimensions, cm	90 x 48 x 42	100 x 60 x 65	100 x 54 x 120	120 x 54 x 120	190 x 56 x 150
Weight, kg	75	60	112	125	250
Add. intelligence	Equipped with asynchronous motor, wet sharpening possible	Handles cutters, circular saws	Wet sharpening possible	Can sharpen up to 4 blades, wet method	Wet method is provided, cup-type grinding disc, controlled via a remote control

Table 1. Characteristics of some models of machines for sharpening planing knives

Compact automatic machines for home and small workshops are designed to machine one torch at a time. They also provide speed control and automatic tool feed.

Before starting work on any sharpening equipment, you should make sure that the bed is firmly attached. Vibration of the machine degrades the quality of sharpening and can lead to injury to the master.

Basic rules for using manual feed equipment

planer knife sharpening machine Corvette-470

Such machines are used for one-time work and for sharpening small batches of blades with their own hands, since the processing process is quite long.

• Before starting work, make sure that the grinding surface is clean, without stains and streaks.
• The movement of the carriage should be smooth, without jerks and jerks. It is forbidden to stop it at the moment the cutter approaches the sharpener.
• The faster the carriage moves, the lower the sharpening quality. The optimum speed of movement is 5 - 6 m / minute.
• For correct sharpening the amplitude of movement of the carriage is important. For a passage in each direction, it should move 10 - 13 cm beyond the end of the knife. This achieves optimal contact between the cutter and the sharpener, which must be interrupted before moving in the opposite direction.

Basic rules for working on automatic machines

• Planing knives can be sharpened dry or wet. In the second case, the blade is constantly washed with a stream of water. The wet method is more gentle on the blade and more effective;
• Before starting processing, it is necessary to set the parameters: the sharpening angle, the amplitude of the carriage movement. The amplitude should be 15 cm more than the length of the knife;
• The blades are carefully fixed with their own hands in a movable carriage.

Homemade planer knife sharpening machine

planer knife sharpening machine Kraton-630

The design, made at home with your own hands, allows you to quickly and efficiently sharpen knives at one set angle. This will change the factory angle, so all blades will need to be re-sharpened. The quality of planing will not deteriorate, but may improve.

To make a device for sharpening straight blades of planing, planing and thicknessing machines with your own hands, you need:

• metal corner No. 50;
• round pipe with a diameter not exceeding 50 mm;
• electric motor from a washing machine;
• powerful spring;
• bolt with nut;
• plastic handle (knob);
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine.

Making a machine with your own hands.

1. Cut off a corner about 50 cm long.
2. We bend two pieces of pipe in such a way that a stable support for the corner is obtained, we weld the legs. The corner should be vertical to the master.
3. At the left end, behind the corner, we attach an electric motor. It is located on two points: a rigid axis and a powerful spring; The spring is tightened and depressed by the adjusting screw, moving the motor closer or further away from the angle guide.
4. We put an abrasive wheel on the motor shaft.
5. The engine is started by a switch located on the bed in a convenient place.
6. We feed the tool with the help of homemade vise from a piece of pipe 25 cm long, a pressure plate, a bolt with a nut and a knob. We hold the knife in a vice and move it along the guide, holding the knob.

Video review of this machine model:

stanokgid.ru

Articles

Dedicated to owners of planers, planers and electric planers .....

Each owner of planers, planers and electric planers faced the need to sharpen knives for their equipment. Having a specialized small machine for sharpening planing knives, it will not be difficult for you to do this. It will also be correct to contact a sharpening workshop where your planing knives will be sharpened quickly and inexpensively.

Is it possible to sharpen planing and planing knives at home ???

Perhaps. And you can sharpen planing knives on a sharpener. Yes, on a grindstone. But only for this you need a modern low-speed sharpener (or rather, even a sharpening machine) with water cooling. The best option is the use of Tormek T7. Naturally, such knives do not sharpen by hand. To sharpen them, we use a special tool Tormek SVH 320.
For high-quality sharpening of planer knives, an even and non-greasy sharpening stone is required. Align the Tormek SG 250 grinding stone using the Tormek TT-50 leveling and dressing tool included with the Tormek T7.
After dressing, smooth the sharpening stone with the Tormek SP-650 sharpening stone cleaning and leveling bar. Having prepared the sharpening stone, let's start sharpening the planing knives. Remove the universal stop and install the special stop included in the Tormek SVH 320 kit.

We screw into it a screw regulating the angle of inclination of the sharpened knife relative to the sharpening stone. With this screw, we will be able to set the required sharpened angle in the future.

We take the blade holder included in the SVH 320 kit and install our planer knife into it.

Tormek recommends sharpening blades and knives at least 13 mm wide. The length of the knife is not so important, because it is possible to reposition the long knife in the holder. However, one can argue with this, tk. I have doubts about the convenience and quality of sharpening long knives with a permutation. It is very important to correctly position the knife in the holder, because otherwise it will be sharpened skewed. When installing the knife into the holder, we rest the back of the knife against the stop and clamp it with the holder screws. For precise setting and control of the set sharpening angle, paint over the sharpened chamfer of the knife with a marker.

Now, by the nature of the traces of the grinding stone on the painted blade, we can estimate the angle of inclination and correct it in the necessary proportions. We install the holder with the knife on the stop fixed to the Tormek. Using the stop adjusting screws, lower the holder with the knife until it touches the sharpening stone.

Using the adjusting screw for setting the angle, we set the angle of the knife relative to the stone. Rotating the sharpening stone manually by the nature of the marks on the painted blade, we determine whether it is necessary to adjust the angle of inclination of the holder with the knife. We make adjustments if necessary.

So, having set the required angle, we proceed directly to sharpening. For fixed removal of metal from the sharpened knife on the stop there are two sliders with a scale of 0.1 mm division. It is assumed that the sharpener can adjust the stock removal rate in precise proportions. It is imperative that after each feed, it is necessary to securely fix the stop with two clamping screws so that there are no fluctuations in the stop during sharpening. Sharpening of the knife is carried out by moving the holder with the knife to the right to the left relative to the sharpening stone.

It is not permissible for the knife to be sharpened to extend beyond the edge of the sharpening stone. It is recommended to stop the holder 12 mm before the edge of the circle. To eliminate errors, stops are provided that can be moved and set the required travel of the holder. We did not use these stops, relying on our experience. It should be noted that during the sharpening of the planer knife, water accumulates and distributes on the knife blade from the sharpening stone, which leads to water draining onto the sharpener body and onto the floor. And a lot of this water flows down. Therefore, it is necessary to regularly top up the water in the Tormek water tank. To reduce water spillage on the body, it is recommended to place a 6 mm high lining under the right leg of the machine (under the honing leather wheel).

However, even this measure does not completely exclude the ingress of water on the Tormek T7 housing. However, Tormek T7 has good protection and is not afraid of such water baths.

Another problem with sharpening the planer knife was that the SG 250 stone was constantly getting greased, which reduced the sharpening efficiency and increased the sharpening time. I had to regularly clean it with a bar to clean and level the grinding stone SP-650. Of course, what material the knife is made of is of great importance. In our case, the knife was sharpened from HSS steel and this stone had to reign constantly. When sharpening knives made of tool (softer steel), the chalk is removed more intensively and sharpening occurs faster. It is recommended to use another stone Tormek SB 250 for sharpening HSS knives.

So, after 20 minutes of sharpening, we have an even, smooth, beautiful knife chamfer with a stable, even burr on the cutting edge.

The knife requires refinement. We finish the planer knife on a Tormek T7 leather wheel using the Tormek PA-70 finishing and polishing paste.

First, we finish the working plane of the knife, then its chamfer. We make sure that there is no burr on the cutting edge of the knife. Once the burr has been removed, the knife is sharpened and ready to go. After sharpening, we checked the geometry of the knife. The knife had a strict parallelism of the cutting edge and back. Even despite the rather large sharpening angle, the knife we ​​sharpened perfectly cut a sheet of paper.

Let's summarize:

1. To sharpen planing knives does not require complex and expensive machines. It is enough to have a Tormek T7 and a special tool Tormek SVH 320 2. After sharpening with a Tormek T7, you get a high-quality sharpened planer knife with constant geometry.

Disadvantages identified:

1. At the entrance of the sharpening from the sharpened knife, water pours abundantly onto the working table and the machine body, from which you have to experience a certain discomfort. Even resorting to certain tricks, it is not possible to completely get rid of this inconvenience.

2. The Tormek SG 250 sharpening stone is regularly salted and needs to be cleaned and leveled with a Tormek SP-650 stone. There is an assumption that if you use the stone Tormek SB 250, this trouble will be eliminated.

www.grinding.ru

Description of sharpening knives for woodworking machines

Sharpening knives for woodworking machines is a mandatory process that can be done by hand using special tools. Sharpening is the restoration of the previous cutting capabilities of hacksaws, shear shafts, planers, planers and other devices for processing wood.

• 1 General
• 2 Preparatory activities

Photos of sharpened knives

• To sharpen the knife shaft of a planer, planer, you need an appropriate device;
• Sharpening work is done by hand;
• Craftsmen have learned to assemble grinding devices;
• When restoring hacksaws, planing devices, sharpening the knife shafts, be sure to adhere to several recommendations, strictly follow the technology;
• If the teeth of hacksaws, knife shafts are not sharpened correctly, the quality of wood processing with tools will significantly deteriorate;
• Sharpening stones are a good alternative for a sharpening machine. But if there is an opportunity to assemble it yourself or purchase a sharpening machine, be sure to use it.

Diagram of the device for sharpening knives of woodworking machines

If you need to sharpen knives for a woodworking machine, you should start with the mandatory preparation steps. It is not so important what parameters the knife shaft or the cutting sheets of the 13 mm, 20 mm or all 200 mm hacksaws have, they will definitely need sharpening.

Some people prefer to give blunt shafts to special workshops, where they can easily restore the previous sharpness of a 200 mm knife or a small milling cutter. lathe... But both ordering a sharpening and buying new knife shafts is a financially costly business.

Preparation for sharpening begins with an acquaintance with the available means of restoring the surfaces of cutting tools and some recommendations.

1. To keep planers, planers, and hacksaws in working order, assemble or buy an appropriate sharpener.
2. The simplest, budgetary option is a whetstone. But the quality of processing directly depends on your skills in working with a stone. If there are none, it is extremely difficult to achieve the desired level of sharpening. Plus, the stones are not able to cope with all types of cutting tools that modern woodworking machines are equipped with.
3. Choose a machine that is capable of sharpening at low speeds, as this has a positive effect on the quality of processing.
4. The recommended piece of equipment for a grinding machine is a water cooling system.
5. Carefully study the complete set of household woodworking machines. Often, there is already a whetstone that is optimally suited to the parameters for processing the knives used.
6. If the stone is not provided in the package, it will have to be purchased separately, leveled with a special device, and smoothed. This is the only way to sharpen the cutter shafts of planing machines with high quality.
7. The machines have a function for setting the angle of inclination, which is adjustable with a special screw. By turning the screw and changing the position of the sharpener, you will be able to properly fix the tool to the stone.
8. The next preparatory stage is the holder in which the knife shaft is installed.
9. If you are a beginner, it is not recommended to start your first job with 200mm knives. Start literally from 13-15 mm, and gradually you will learn how to process 200 mm and even 2 mm. To do this, you need to accumulate some experience.
10. The length of the knife is not a critical parameter, since the knife in the holder can move as far as you need.
11. Be sure to hold the shaft firmly in place. Otherwise, you will get a significant distortion, due to which the quality of woodworking will suffer.
12. Study the operating manual of the grinding machine you purchased in detail. If this is a do-it-yourself tool, you will have to rely on the drawings and available information on the network about a specific grinder project.

Sharpening

In order for the performed sharpening of knives for a woodworking machine to give a positive result, you can resume work with equipment at the same quality level, you need to adhere to a few fairly simple rules.

1. The grinder holder can move left and right relative to the knife sharpening stone.
2. Do not let the blade go over the edge.
3. Fix the holder immediately at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the grinding wheel.
4. When sharpening knives of 200 mm or smaller variations, make sure the water cooling function is activated on the machine.
5. The cooling system requires constant monitoring. The tank usually has a small volume, so the water needs to be refilled periodically. If it ends, and the sharpening process continues without cooling, you risk ruining a rather expensive knife.
6. As the knives are processed, water from the cooling system may collect on the floor. Since grinders are electrical devices, consider draining water from your feet and wear rubber shoes. In any case, standing in a puddle of water while working with an electric machine is always dangerous. Follow the safety regulations.
7. Keep the whetstone clean. It gets dirty pretty quickly with active use.
8. The grinding wheels of machine tools are cleaned using a special device. Machines should be equipped with this cleaning bar, but if it is not in the set, then you will have to purchase it separately.
9. Each subsequent sharpening, according to the rules of operation, is performed only on condition that the stone is cleaned. Therefore, after each sharpening, arm yourself with a cleaning bar, processing the machine with it.
10. On average, sharpening with a special machine takes about 10-20 minutes. It all depends on the type and size of the tool, which has become blunt as a result of the woodworking operations carried out.
11. After sharpening the tools of woodworking machines, do not rush to return them to their place and continue to work. After processing on the machine, the tool needs to be fine-tuned.
12. Lapping consists in applying a special paste to the surface of the cutting element. Follow the instructions provided by the lapping paste manufacturer on the packaging. Different pastes may differ slightly in application methods.

If you did everything correctly, then the knife should turn out to be perfectly flat, sharply sharpened, devoid of any irregularities, burrs. Do not worry when the first time the result does not live up to expectations. This takes some time and a bit of experience. That's why it's worth starting with simple, inexpensive knives that you don't mind ruining.

tvoistanok.ru

What you need to know about sharpening jointer knives

The planer and planer have long been one of the most popular carpentry tools, they have not lost their relevance today. Many specialized specialists are interested in the question of how to sharpen jointer knives, since a tool fully prepared for work allows you to achieve best quality work. The first thing to do is to remove the knife and chipbreaker, which must be unscrewed before work. Used tools must be cleaned of contaminants such as resin, best removed with gasoline.

To sharpen a planer and planer type knife, it is better to use specialized devices. The procedure is also carried out manually, in addition, the device for sharpening the jointer knives can be assembled independently. When working, you need to follow a number of rules, you can use several technologies. Regardless of which sharpening option you use, you need to follow the instructions as closely as possible. Otherwise, it is possible to achieve poor-quality work of the tool, the functions of which the carpenter cannot use 100%. If you are thinking about how to sharpen your jointer knives at home, use regular sharpening stones, although a professional grinder with a cooling function is ideal.

Preparing to sharpen knives

Sharpening of jointer knives can be done better if you choose a device with low speed and high quality. If you want to use a whetstone, then it must be leveled initially. After straightening the device, the stone must be smoothed with a bar.

Now set a suitable angle of inclination, this is done by rotating the screw that secures the canvas. Next, you need to use the holder that is included in the standard set of the machine, where the planer knife is fixed. Work should be started with knives no wider than 13 mm. The length is not important as the tool is fixed in a comfortable position in the holder.

In order to fix the knife well, hold it in the selected position and tighten the screws tightly.

To control the angle of sharpening of jointer knives, a marker is used to mark the chamfer of the knife. You can understand the accuracy of the adjustment by turning the stone by hand.

Tool sharpening

Sharpening the jointer knives is a simple process, you only need to move the holder from side to side relative to the sharpening stone. Try not to let the blade go beyond the edges of the stone. Fix the holder 12 mm from the end of the circle. When carrying out work, you need to adjust the supply of water cooling. Be prepared to regularly replenish the fluid reservoir and avoid draining the reservoir. To make your work safe, you need to ensure that moisture does not drain onto the floor under your feet.

Sharpening the planer knives is a rather lengthy procedure. Check the cleanliness of the whetstone periodically, as it can quickly become greasy. To clean it, you need to use a special bar as soon as contamination is detected. By the way, the choice of stone largely depends on the type of instrument. The planer can include knives of different hardness types, so choose your grindstone carefully.

Typically, planer knives will be sharpened for 20 minutes before finishing. This procedure is carried out using a special paste. Polishing is carried out so that the blade does not have the slightest roughness, burrs, otherwise work with such a knife will not be complete. Check the efficiency of sharpening by cutting a piece of paper with it. If the cut is made neatly, then the knife is completely ready for use.

Other materials for sharpening tools: * Sharpening a hacksaw for wood. * Sharpening the chisel with your own hands.

The sharpness of the knife is one of the main parameters affecting the quality of wood processing. In addition, this characteristic also affects the degree of safety.

Often a person does not want to run over and over again in search of a place where he could bring his cutting tools into proper condition. In this case, it is just right for him to think about making a homemade sharpening machine that would solve the issue of the sharpness of planing knives once and for all.

The development of industrial equipment does not stand still. The requirements for speed and, most importantly, for the quality of material processing are constantly increasing. In this regard, it becomes necessary to create a cutting tool with high parameters.

One of the main problems that appears in the process of work is the sharpening of knives. This is what determines the basic capabilities of the machines and their suitability for use.

Homemade grinding machine.

Depending on the tasks to be solved, such devices are divided into two types: universal and special. The first are grinding devices for the surfaces of most cutting elements. They are equipped with a variety of devices that allow you to fix, set and sharpen knives.

All units are equipped with various equipment that determines the degree of automation and control of the accuracy of the work performed. are also different. These can be stationary devices or temporary ones that can be placed on any horizontal surfaces.

Despite the wide range of offered types of equipment, in order to save money, a knife sharpening machine can be made by hand.

Homemade units may in some cases even be more convenient than purchased options. This is due to the fact that the master independently decides what characteristics a given device should have.

Although, of course, many models of universal devices allow you to choose the most suitable type of equipment capable of solving the assigned tasks.

Homemade knife sharpening machine

Most often it is due to two reasons. The first is the desire to save money. The second is to show your skills and do everything with your own hands exactly as the soul desires.

Drawing of the device of the machine.

For example, very often you may be faced with the need to tidy up only certain tools. These can be drills, cutters, saws or planer knives.

In each case, a separate approach is required. Self-assembly of the machine will make it possible to make a convenient unit for working with certain elements.

Among other things, the presence of sharpening units will significantly save costs for the purchase of new knives or for their restoration in third-party workshops.

If you need to professionally sharpen the tools listed above, then you should still give preference to purchased devices. They are more thoughtful and sophisticated.

In addition, buying in a store guarantees that the device will solve the assigned tasks for a long time. You should also remember about the degree of automation. Of course, in professional devices, electronics are used, which are simply impossible to make at home without proper experience.

Option 1

To sharpen the planer will not only keep the tool in good condition, but also save time on trips to other workshops.

One of the options for creating such a device is to use an engine with an abrasive wheel, emery or a sharpening device with a knife fixed in it.

Homemade machine for sharpening planing knives.

This unit can be made partly from aluminum, metal and wood. In this case, bearings and guides made from scrap materials, for example, pipe corners, etc., are used.

If the knives are level, they can be sharpened on a large abrasive stone. If one is not available, you should use sandpaper glued to a flat surface.

Depending on the requirements for the end result, you can vary the speed of this process. If there are chipped holes, you must first use a belt sander, and at the final stage, treat the tool with an abrasive bar or homemade from sandpaper.

In terms of design features, the machines can also differ from each other. The first option is a device with a fixed base. Its angle of inclination can be changed, but otherwise it is in a fixed position.

The bar is attached to a rod, which is inserted into the loop of a movable retainer located on the other rod. The disadvantage of this design is the "walking" angle due to the lack of rigid fixation.

The knife is installed by means of two steel plates fixed on a fixed platform. Having loosened the fasteners, insert the blade and clamp it. Then adjust the height of the bar so that the required angle is set.

Option 2

The second type of design provides for a movable platform as well as a magnetic holder. This option is devoid of the disadvantages of the previous unit. The frame with a bar that defines the angle is immobile in this device.

The knife, in turn, is mounted on a movable table. The choice of the holder is up to the master. You can use the magnetic type or the usual, made of metal platinum and "lambs".

An important requirement for such equipment is the movement of the table with the cutting tool on a strictly horizontal surface. It is best to use a polymer or marble countertop as it.

The principle of sharpening knives on a machine.

As you can see, it is not that difficult to sharpen knives. If you have any problems, you can always use the help of training videos from the Internet. With proper adherence to all instructions, anyone can make such equipment.

Outcome

Knife grinder - necessary equipment in the workshop of every wood craftsman. A timely solution to the problem of sharpening knives will not only speed up the process of material processing, but also save time and money.

Why go to other workshops when you can make the necessary equipment yourself with your own hands?

Sharpening knives for woodworking machines is a mandatory process that can be done by hand using special tools. Sharpening is the restoration of the previous cutting capabilities of hacksaws, shear shafts, planers, planers and other devices for wood processing.

• To sharpen the knife shaft of a planer, planer, you need an appropriate device;
• Sharpening work is done by hand;
• Craftsmen have learned to assemble grinding devices;
• When restoring hacksaws, planing devices, sharpening the knife shafts, be sure to adhere to several recommendations, strictly follow the technology;
• If the teeth of hacksaws, knife shafts are not sharpened correctly, the quality of wood processing with tools will significantly deteriorate;
• Sharpening stones are a good alternative for a sharpening machine. But if there is an opportunity to assemble it yourself or purchase a sharpening machine, be sure to use it.

Preparatory activities

If you need to sharpen knives for a woodworking machine, you should start with the mandatory preparation steps. It is not so important what parameters the knife shaft or the cutting sheets of the 13 mm, 20 mm or all 200 mm hacksaws have, they will definitely need sharpening.

Some people prefer to give blunt shafts to special workshops, where they can easily restore the previous sharpness of a 200 mm knife or a small milling cutter of a lathe. But both ordering a sharpening and buying new knife shafts is a financially costly business.

Preparation for sharpening begins with an acquaintance with the available means of restoring the surfaces of cutting tools and some recommendations.

1. To keep planers, planers, and hacksaws in working order, assemble or buy an appropriate sharpener.
2. The simplest, budgetary option is a whetstone. But the quality of processing directly depends on your skills in working with a stone. If there are none, it is extremely difficult to achieve the desired level of sharpening. Plus, the stones are not able to cope with all types of cutting tools that modern woodworking machines are equipped with.
3. Choose a machine that is capable of sharpening at low speeds, as this has a positive effect on the quality of processing.
4. The recommended equipment of the grinding machine is the water cooling system.
5. Carefully study the complete set of household woodworking machines. Often, there is already a whetstone that is optimally suited to the parameters for processing the knives used.
6. If the stone is not provided in the package, it will have to be purchased separately, leveled with a special device, and smoothed. This is the only way to sharpen the cutter shafts of planing machines with high quality.
7. The machines have a function for setting the angle of inclination, which is adjustable with a special screw. By turning the screw and changing the position of the sharpener, you will be able to properly fix the tool to the stone.
8. The next preparatory stage is the holder in which the knife shaft is installed.
9. If you are a beginner, it is not recommended to start your first job with 200mm knives. Start literally from 13-15 mm, and gradually you will learn how to process 200 mm and even 2 mm. To do this, you need to accumulate some experience.
10. The length of the knife is not a critical parameter, since the knife in the holder can move as far as you need.
11. Be sure to hold the shaft firmly in place. Otherwise, you will get a significant distortion, due to which the quality of woodworking will suffer.
12. Study the operating manual of the grinding machine you purchased in detail. If this is a do-it-yourself tool, you will have to rely on the drawings and available information on the network about a specific grinder project.

Sharpening

In order for the performed sharpening of knives for a woodworking machine to give a positive result, you can resume work with equipment at the same quality level, you need to adhere to a few fairly simple rules.

1. The grinder holder can move left and right relative to the knife sharpening stone.
2. Do not let the blade go over the edge.
3. Fix the holder immediately at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the grinding wheel.
4. When sharpening knives of 200 mm or smaller variations, make sure the water cooling function is activated on the machine.
5. The cooling system requires constant monitoring. The tank usually has a small volume, so the water needs to be refilled periodically. If it ends, and the sharpening process continues without cooling, you risk ruining a rather expensive knife.
6. As the knives are processed, water from the cooling system may collect on the floor. Since grinders are electrical devices, consider draining water from your feet and wear rubber shoes. In any case, standing in a puddle of water while working with an electric machine is always dangerous. Follow the safety regulations.
7. Keep the whetstone clean. It gets dirty pretty quickly with active use.
8. The grinding wheels of machine tools are cleaned using a special device. Machines should be equipped with this cleaning bar, but if it is not in the set, then you will have to purchase it separately.
9. Each subsequent sharpening, according to the rules of operation, is performed only on condition that the stone is cleaned. Therefore, after each sharpening, arm yourself with a cleaning bar, processing the machine with it.
10. On average, sharpening with a special machine takes about 10-20 minutes. It all depends on the type and size of the tool, which has become blunt as a result of the woodworking operations carried out.
11. After sharpening the tools of woodworking machines, do not rush to return them to their place and continue to work. After processing on the machine, the tool needs to be fine-tuned.
12. Lapping consists in applying a special paste to the surface of the cutting element. Follow the instructions provided by the lapping paste manufacturer on the packaging. Different pastes may differ slightly in application methods.

If you did everything correctly, then the knife should turn out to be perfectly flat, sharply sharpened, devoid of any irregularities, burrs. Do not worry when the first time the result does not live up to expectations. This takes some time and a bit of experience. That's why it's worth starting with simple, inexpensive knives that you don't mind ruining.

A cheap and easy-to-manufacture clamp for sharpening planing and planing knives. This is not the first instruction for making a homemade knife sharpener on the Internet, but I decided to make it to fill the gap between very light sharpeners and very difficult things.

In general, these are several guide rods, which makes it possible to use it, for example, for grinding back chamfers.

I tried to make a simple and cheap emery machine with my own hands, and I feel like I did it.

To assemble a knife sharpener you will need:

• Drill and drills (approximately 0.2 cm and 2.5 cm)
• Vise
• Clamps
• Chipboard slats (or similar small-sized lumber)
• Dowels 1.25 cm (0.95 cm is too small, 1.1 cm also does not fit, 1.25 cm is quite stiff)
• PVC pipe with a diameter of 2.5 cm (smaller, but I had one)
• Coupling for pipe 2.5 cm
• 2 pipe clamps 3 cm
• Steel cover
• A little (10-15 cm) steel wire
• 4 wood screws
• 2 self-tapping screws for sheet metal
• Wood glue
• Hot glue

The main disadvantage of this easel design is that the wooden holders / guide rod make it difficult to flush the sand off the sharpening stones. I had to wash them in the sink, not in a bucket of water.

The second drawback is that the angle accuracy will, at best, be around +/- 0.7 degrees depending on the stone, even after calibration. This can be eliminated by using more advanced tools (for example, a drill press or planer), but I did not have access to such things, and I do not know how much they will help ...

But enough abstract thoughts, it's time to move on to implementation!

Step 1: guide

Bend a piece of steel wire so that it has a through hole just over 1.25 cm on a side. This is our guide - it fits into the holes that we will drill in the base and will control the position of the guide rod.

If the hole is slightly off-center, this is normal, perhaps even optimal, which will be explained below in the "Usage" section.

Step 2: making the base and base

The base is easy to make. Some notes:

1. The length should be reasonable. For example, if you will be using sharpening stones up to 30 cm long, you need to make a base at least (30 + 7.5 + 5) = 42.5 cm long. Better to leave a margin, so I cut off 52 cm.
2. The width should also be reasonable. It makes no sense to make it thinner than the lid (about 12.5 cm), it is better to make it wider, I got about 18 cm.

Constructing the base is pretty straightforward:

1. Cut pieces of wood to the desired length
2. Glue them
3. After the glue is dry, attach the pipe clamp sleeve
4. Fill the gaps around the pipe with hot glue to prevent backlash
5. Add a screw to prevent the clutch from rotating
6. Heat the steel lid with a gas burner, apply hot glue to the wood surface and press down

Everything is done, the base is just a piece of pipe with holes drilled in the appropriate places.
The screw controls how deep the pipe is immersed in the sleeve so that the pipe does not get stuck and comes back every time.

The hole heights can be roughly calculated using the equation in the diagram.

Step 3: stone holders

In order for the rod couplings to give direction to the stone holders, drill a 1.25 cm hole as close to the center of the tie as possible so that they are in the same plane as the wide edges.

By pure eye, I was able to maintain an accuracy of about +/- 1 degree, which was sufficient for my purposes, but if you want to be more accurate at an angle, you will need a drill press or drill and chuck or something similar.

Make sure you drill the holes exactly where you need them as they will be used to hold the stones. It is important that the distance from the hole of the guide rod to the bottom of the stone must be consistent for all holders; otherwise, a wide spread is possible. I showed it in the photo.

In general, the smaller the stone, the less effort is required. For example, the holder for my 30cm stone has a steel tongue that holds the stone in the foam pad, while the 15cm stone holders just fit in length.

Step 4: Use

The design has several assumptions, which together can give a couple of degrees of deflection. For alignment, you need to press the stones against a steel plate and find out how much base offset is required.

That is, if there is a 1 degree deviation and you need to sharpen at a 25 degree angle, insert the guide 26 degrees into the hole.

Press the jig onto a table or other surface and use. You can press the knife against the additional support if needed.