How to make a greenhouse. We build an inexpensive greenhouse with our own hands - successful projects in photos and videos Building a greenhouse with your own

The presence of a greenhouse on a summer cottage is a common occurrence. Using different materials, you can build greenhouses of a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Work in them begins in early spring and ends in autumn. Having your own vegetables is not only economical, but also safe, since you can be confident in their quality. That is why many people have a desire to equip a winter greenhouse. You can grow vegetables and fruits in it all year round, even if it’s frosty outside.

Can an amateur summer resident build such a structure? In fact, the construction and arrangement of a winter greenhouse does not require much time and money, so you can handle the tasks yourself. In this article we will tell you how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands, demonstrate the necessary drawings, as well as photo and video instructions.

Features and differences from a summer greenhouse

When constructing a winter greenhouse, unlike a summer greenhouse, a strong and reliable structure is made. It stands on the foundation. In addition, the winter greenhouse has a heating system. The quality and consistency of the temperature inside will depend on the latter. Every winter greenhouse must contain:

• lighting;
• heating;
• ventilation;
• watering.

The size of the greenhouse must be selected in accordance with the number of crops that will be grown. The coating material must be reliable. A simple film will not protect crops from frost and snow. It is also important to provide for the possibility of additional wall insulation.

When developing a winter greenhouse, several conditions must be met for good plant growth: light and temperature conditions, as well as air humidity.

Main types of winter greenhouses

A modern winter greenhouse can be built from various materials. Today, the construction market is filled with innovative materials. They are distinguished by increased strength, lightness and affordable price. This allows you to choose everything you need within even a small planned budget. At the preparatory stage it is necessary to plan the design. Her choice will depend solely on the plants that are planned to be grown.

The types of winter greenhouses are distinguished not only by the materials used, but also by their external forms.

1. Single-pitched - wall-mounted and with an earthen fill.
2. Gable - with main walls and a glazed roof.
3. Polycarbonate arched.

1. First of all, the parameters are calculated, since further calculations will depend on this.
2. It is also necessary to take into account functionality, that is, to know in advance the features of growing crops. In modern and modernized winter greenhouses, you can grow not only vegetables and fruits, but also mushrooms, herbs, and flowers.
3. The microclimate inside the structure will depend on the correct location of the greenhouse at ground level. If desired, the structure can be deepened inside and get the effect of a thermos, or construction can begin on the surface. Some people prefer to set up greenhouses in old buildings (garage or barn).
4. A wide variety of architectural solutions allows you to realize any ideas and plans. You can build the structure yourself or buy a ready-made structure. You can also seek help from specialists.

Many people grow flowers of various crops for sale. When choosing exotic plants, it is necessary to calculate all costs, as well as study the requirements for the structure.

When developing a project, it is necessary to take into account the material with which the frame will be sheathed. The winter greenhouse must be durable and airtight, so for arranging the frame choose:

• tree;
• metal.

Both materials are very durable, so it is quite difficult to choose one or the other. Metal is strong and reliable, but wood is much easier to work with. In addition, the wood will not heat up in high summer temperatures. To support the weight of the entire structure, as well as the load of snow on the roof, it is necessary to use strong and thick racks.

Frame covering material:

• film;
• glass;
• cellular polycarbonate.

When choosing a film, it is necessary to sheathe the frame not in one layer, but in several. In addition, you should not use it to arrange the entire structure. Glass also has many disadvantages: heavy weight, fragility and difficulty in installation. The most suitable material for a winter greenhouse is cellular polycarbonate. The advantages include: light weight, light transmission, and ease of installation.

According to experts, the microclimate in a greenhouse made of wood is several times better than one made of metal. When choosing a tree, it must be treated with modern antiseptics and protective agents.

When choosing a site for the construction of a winter greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account three main factors:

1. Light. The winter greenhouse should receive the maximum amount of sunlight. The greenhouse is best placed lengthwise from west to east.
2. Wind. If the chosen location often experiences gusty and cold winds, it is necessary to consider protection. This will save on heating costs and constantly maintain an acceptable temperature and microclimate.
3. Convenience. Access or passage to the greenhouse should be wide and convenient. Thanks to this, it will be very convenient to use the greenhouse for its intended purpose.

When organizing protection from strong winds, you can plant a hedge. It must be remembered that the fence must be placed at a distance of at least 10 m. The distance is calculated depending on the height of the ridge.

The most important thing in a winter greenhouse is heating. This process is the most labor-intensive and complex. To organize it, the help of specialists is required. But you can do everything yourself. It is necessary to choose the right type of heating, on which the productivity of the greenhouse will depend. Today there are many ways to heat even a large area. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages:

1. Sun. Affordable and cheap option. But it is not suitable for winter, since the sun's rays are not so strong and will not be able to heat. It can be combined with other heat sources.
2. Biological heating. Biologically active substances decompose, resulting in the release of heat. The simplest biological substance is manure. As with the sun, this method will not be able to completely heat even a small area.
3. Electricity. An affordable and popular heating method. It can be installed in any area away from home. You can use different electrical appliances for it: convectors, air heaters, infrared radiation, cable heating, heat pump and water heating.
4. Air heating. It is organized at the initial stage of construction of a winter greenhouse, in particular, when pouring the foundation. With the help of heating and ventilation units, warm air is supplied to the middle and upper part of the greenhouse.
5. Gas. Gas heaters are installed in the greenhouse, in which direct combustion occurs. To avoid oxygen burnout, it is necessary to provide a good ventilation system.
6. Bake. An affordable and economical option involves installing a stove and heating the entire area of ​​the winter greenhouse. Gas, wood and coal can be used as fuel. Among the disadvantages is the heating of the walls, so planting plants next to the stove is not recommended.

It is necessary to choose the type of heating individually for each specific case. You must be guided by such criteria as local climate, planned budget and plant type.

Stages of construction of a winter greenhouse

Since the construction stages and technologies completely depend on the materials and design, there is no need to talk about standards. Using an example, we will look at the construction of a winter greenhouse, which is adjacent to the house. A brick is selected for the foundation. The frame is erected from wooden beams or profile pipes. The entire structure will be covered with polycarbonate.

To create the effect of a thermos, you don’t have to go deep into the ground, but only raise the base. The depth of the foundation is 50 cm, the width is 40 cm. For convenience, it is better to make a strip foundation. Do not forget about the sand cushion or use fine gravel. The execution steps are standard and do not require any professional skills or equipment. After pouring, it is recommended to keep the foundation for a week. On hot days, the surface is moistened with water. A layer of waterproofing should be laid between the foundation and the plinth.

You can use used bricks to build the basement. If the financial side allows, then a new brick is selected. The height of the wall should be about 1 m. The thickness of the walls can be half a brick or a brick, at your own discretion. The frame is constructed from durable and pre-treated wooden beams. Anchors and dowels act as fasteners. Thus, a skeleton is installed that will be a reliable support for heavy loads. The frame for the roof must be made at an angle of 30° from the horizon.

The frame should be sheathed with polycarbonate according to the standard scheme and technology. For a good result, several conditions must be met:

• marking;
• precision cutting;
• accuracy of installation;
• use of special fasteners;
• sealing polycarbonate seams for tightness.

Several vents installed around the entire perimeter can serve as ventilation.

For greater savings, it is recommended to choose a location near your home. Thanks to this, one of the walls is already completely ready, so you don’t have to waste time, effort and money. In order for the main part of the greenhouse to be constantly warm, it is necessary to attach a vestibule at the front door. For high-quality sealing, you can use polyurethane foam and special sealants.

After all construction and sealing work has been completed in full, you can begin arrangement. So, it is necessary to supply water and electricity for lighting to the greenhouse. It is also important to take care of the shut-off valves, which will ensure a high-quality water supply.

When choosing light scattering sources, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of growing the selected crops. An equally important issue is the soil. The substrate is prepared, fertilizers and special additives (feeding) are added. They will ensure fast and proper growth of all vegetables and fruits that have been selected.

Guided by the tips provided, you can build and prepare a winter greenhouse for growing various crops in the winter in just a few days. It is enough to use all available materials and purchase missing ones. You can handle all the work alone, but it is better to have an assistant, especially when it comes to installing the skeleton of a winter greenhouse.

Video

To learn how to make heating in a winter greenhouse, watch the video:

Blueprints

Photo

First of all, the greenhouse is designed to protect various garden and vegetable plants from the effects of negative atmospheric factors (hail, rain, snow, wind, and so on).

A favorable atmosphere is created inside the structure, which makes it possible to grow various fruit crops, and their yield in such conditions increases several times.

As for vegetables and herbs, their harvest time comes much earlier compared to the same types if they are grown in open ground.

A huge advantage of installing greenhouses on a garden plot is the fact that an excellent harvest, and in the case of some crops more than once, can provide vegetables and herbs throughout the entire winter-spring period.

This can be very cost-effective, especially considering that the price of these products in stores during the designated period of time is quite high.

Place for installing a greenhouse

The idea of ​​building a greenhouse with your own hands comes to the minds of many gardeners and gardeners. But before starting work, you must first become familiar with the stages of construction of this structure and, most importantly, determine the shape of the greenhouse and its location.

It must be remembered that it is not for one year. The average time of its operation can be almost ten years.

The best option in this matter would be consultation with specialists. You can get their advice either directly (if such a master is part of your social circle) or via the Internet.

• The place where the greenhouse will be installed must be level and protected from wind loads. At the same time, the sun's rays must completely cover and heat the structure.
• There is no need to set up a greenhouse in dark places, near a fence or trees.

• In the case of a winter version of the greenhouse and growing plants in the cold season, you need to take into account that snow that has fallen on the structure’s cover can prevent the penetration of sunlight. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that this does not happen and remove snow caps in a timely manner.

In addition, due to insufficient heat, light and water entering the greenhouse, it is possible to organize the supply of electricity and arrange watering in the greenhouse by installing an irrigation system.

Where to start building a greenhouse?

When building any structure, including a greenhouse, it is best to start the process with design. Create drawings of the greenhouse, reflecting its external forms and the main materials that will be used for its construction.

The structure itself can be small, with an area of ​​approximately two by three meters and a height of two and a half meters. Or large, three by six meters in area with a similar height.

The most popular configurations used when installing greenhouses include arched and gable greenhouses. When choosing one of the species, not the least, and perhaps the most important role is played by the factor of choosing the types of crops that will be grown in the greenhouse in the future.

For example, the arched type is more suitable for planting low-growing crops, that is, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers. The gable type will contribute to better growth of tall crops (tomatoes of this type, cucumbers and flowers).

In general, creating a good greenhouse project is not difficult. If you can’t do this yourself, then the Internet always offers various standard designs for similar structures.

Selection of materials for coating and frame

One of the most common basic materials used in the construction of greenhouses is polycarbonate. Its attractiveness comes from a number of characteristics and advantages of this material in comparison with other types of materials used in the construction of similar garden structures, for example, film or glass.

Note!

Among the main characteristics are: light transmission, thermal conductivity and strength. One of the main advantages of the material is its lightness and ductility. The internal composition of polycarbonate allows sheets to be bent without the risk of destruction.

In addition, an additional advantage is the price component. Polycarbonate is considered a cheap material, which further increases its demand.

Already during the direct process of installing polycarbonate sheets, it is best to use a double sheet fastening system. Rigid and with opening. Thus, a ventilation system is formed in the greenhouse.

Having decided on the material for covering the greenhouse, you can begin selecting the frame. There is a wide selection of profiles that can be used when installing the frame system. This includes metal pipes with a round, rectangular or square cross-section.

Each designated type has its own advantages and disadvantages. Galvanized square pipes are considered the most suitable. This profile is excellently characterized by high strength, as well as the presence of galvanization, which protects the structure from corrosion.

However, plastic is gaining wide popularity among materials today. Metal pipes are in many ways inferior to plastic pipes, and many have already appreciated this.

Note!

A plastic greenhouse is a modern, high-quality structure, characterized by many positive qualities due to the special properties of the material.

Of these, it is worth noting that plastic pipes are easy to cut, glue and weld. This is an environmentally friendly material, not susceptible to corrosion, mold, and can withstand various atmospheric loads.

Considering the appearance of the greenhouse, you can choose either rigid PVC pipes for gable or single-pitch structures, or flexible PP or PVC for arched types.

In the end, whatever the choice of someone for whom a do-it-yourself pipe greenhouse is an already made decision, he can always compare and choose the most optimal frame option.

Construction of a foundation for a greenhouse

Of course, it is not worth installing the greenhouse on clean soil. A foundation is needed. Taking into account that the structure itself is of a lightweight type, but nevertheless requires stability, the base for it is made as follows:

Note!

• A trench is dug.
• A sand bedding with compaction 20 centimeters thick is installed.
• Formwork is placed along the entire perimeter of the trench on both sides.
• A reinforcing mesh is laid at the bottom of the trench over the entire area of ​​the sand base.
• The trench is filled with concrete. The upper concrete level is equal to the width of the installed formwork board.

When performing these works, you must remember that if the greenhouse itself is installed very quickly (within one or two days), then when laying the foundation it will take almost a month for a good setting. Therefore, such work should be done in advance.

Final stage

When the structure is completely ready, it will be possible to begin the internal equipment. Placing beds and passages, determining where to lay pipes for irrigation, and so on.

Many people like to photograph their work. Some people prefer to film the entire work process, while others prefer to take pictures of the results of the work.

But with special pride, friends and acquaintances are always presented with photos of a greenhouse made with their own hands, where tomatoes, eggplants and other various vegetables and herbs are already ripening to their full potential.

DIY greenhouse photo

The immediate purpose of the greenhouse lies in protecting plants from unfavorable factors, of which there are a great many. Creating a favorable microclimate in the greenhouse that is best suited for the crops being grown, increasing their productivity several times. And greens and fresh vegetables can be obtained much earlier compared to open ground. It is no secret to everyone that their price in the winter-spring period is an order of magnitude higher than the seasonal one. Therefore, growing crops in greenhouses is highly economically efficient.

Place for a greenhouse

If you are wondering how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to take an interest in the general factors that influence the choice of a greenhouse. This step should be taken carefully, because you will be buying a greenhouse for more than one year. By the way, the average useful life of such a design is close to 10 years.

To choose a place to build a greenhouse, you need to remember that the main purpose lies in the successful growth of seeds and comfortable conditions for the ripening of fruits. Therefore, it is better to select a flat place on the site that is well protected from the wind and where sunlight reaches in sufficient quantities. Therefore, it is worth installing a greenhouse in a place where there are no objects that create a large shadow.

It is not recommended to locate the greenhouse near fences and trees. However, sometimes placing a tree near a greenhouse is not a disadvantage, because in the summer it protects the structure from overheating, and in winter frosts it allows the sun, having shed its leaves, to penetrate through the branches and heat the greenhouse. You just need to make sure it doesn't grow excessively. But a greenhouse cannot be placed near a coniferous tree, which maintains cover all year round.

Also take into account the presence of buildings near the greenhouse. It may turn out that in summer the sun will be located above the roof, but in winter, on the contrary, it will not be able to rise so high, and the building will completely shade the greenhouse all year round. It should be remembered that a greenhouse requires electricity, water and gas. Therefore, you should not locate the greenhouse far from energy sources.

If you are aiming to build a winter greenhouse and grow plants in the cold season, then remember that the snow cover that is located around the greenhouse can directly reflect the sun's rays onto it. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that snow on the greenhouse cover does not interfere with the penetration of lighting.

Greenhouses, greenhouses and conservatories should be installed on a flat surface. Installation on sloping soil provokes the destruction of the frame, because the snow load in winter is distributed unevenly and can be very significant for mid-latitudes.

Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse

When building a greenhouse, it is recommended to determine the dimensions in advance. To do this, you need to pay attention to the area of ​​the site where the greenhouse will be located, and decide in what volume you will grow plants, and what grows next to the greenhouse.

The most popular forms are arched and gable greenhouses. To correctly determine the appropriate greenhouse shape for your plot of land, you need to pay attention to two points:

• Before making a purchase, try to determine what you will be growing. For short crops (short tomatoes, eggplants and peppers), you should choose an arched greenhouse. For tall crops (tall tomatoes, flowers and cucumbers), a gable roof is better suited.
• You shouldn’t forget about your own preferences, because the greenhouse should please you with its appearance.

The greenhouse base can be made in the form of a circle, trapezoid or rectangle, as well as their various variations. The most successful is a round greenhouse-tent, which uses sunlight effectively. The frame material is PVC, wood or metal.

Coating materials

If you are interested in what you can make a greenhouse out of, then remember that each material for covering a greenhouse has its own advantages and disadvantages. Greenhouse film attracts with its easy replacement, low price, low design requirements, and the possibility of using a frame made of wood or metal. The shape of the greenhouse can be a traditional arched one or an arched one with straight walls.

The film, which is well stretched over the arched structure, can be safely left for the winter. The film can easily serve for up to 4 years. Disadvantages include instability to mechanical damage and low thermal insulation.

But greenhouses covered with expensive, short-lived film, as well as fragile glass structures, are becoming a thing of the past. Such buildings have been replaced by polycarbonate material, which is more attractive in its characteristics - good light transmission and thermal conductivity, strength and price. Therefore, cellular polycarbonate has become the most popular material for covering greenhouses today.

The main advantage of polycarbonate is its lightness and the use of such a greenhouse for up to 10 years. The ability to bend the sheet under a greenhouse arch provides a significant increase in the load from snow. The frame is usually metal. The dimensions of the greenhouse walls and the length of the arches depend on the size of the polycarbonate sheet.

If the covering material of the greenhouse is double-glazed or glass, then the frame design requires reinforcement with floor trusses and internal drains. The undoubted advantages of glass are its light transmission, durability and warmth. But the stringent requirements of the frame due to the heaviness and fragility of glass lead to an increase in the popularity of replacing glass with polycarbonate.

Frame materials

There are currently several frame options available on the market. Galvanized profile: this frame is protected from corrosion, but at the same time it has low strength indicators. Thin sheets of steel are used here, which can easily be deformed.

The steel frame, which is coated with powder paint, is a fairly durable material, but it is not durable due to corrosion. The material is also characterized by high thermal conductivity, which has a bad effect on the yield in some cases.

A square profile made of galvanized steel is called the best option for developers who are interested in how to properly build a greenhouse. This profile demonstrates high strength characteristics and is not subject to corrosion due to galvanization.

Greenhouse foundation

In addition to its standard purpose, the greenhouse foundation additionally performs an important function, being an integral part of the pocket in which high ridges are located. Considering the fact that the foundation acts as an element of the overall structure of the greenhouse in its lower part, combining brick and concrete, it should not “walk” in the spring when the soil thaws, as this will otherwise lead to the formation of cracks and cause deformation of the arched structure.

The greenhouse glazing may also crack. Almost every gardener has encountered this issue during the construction of a garden house, so it is necessary to determine in advance the most acceptable options for dealing with certain deformations.

Laying the foundation for a greenhouse requires calculating the depth of soil freezing. It is advisable to dig a trench under the foundation, which is usually filled with sand and gradually compacted. The filling height must be at least 20 centimeters below the ground surface.

Around such a groove you need to place formwork 20 centimeters high directly above the soil. Metal reinforcement is placed in the formwork along the entire perimeter, and then it is filled with concrete. With the help of such simple manipulations, it will be possible to create a foundation for the greenhouse in the form of a strong reinforced belt of concrete, and exposure to the influence of earth movement is excluded.

Frame construction and covering

The strength of the greenhouse frame allows you to reliably protect the crop from rain and wind. The construction of the frame should begin with marking the site. First of all, you need to decide what size the future greenhouse will be. The standard option is a compact structure for a summer cottage measuring 6 by 3 meters.

After this, you can begin assembling the greenhouse frame itself. To do this, strengthen the support posts in the soil in pre-dug holes. Along the perimeter of the structure there are 6 side beams with a length of 2.15 m with 3 central beams, which are 3 meters long. For beams, the cross section should be 10 centimeters.

After this, the bars must be deepened at a distance of about 40-50 centimeters, followed by careful fixation. The horizontal beams are secured to the top of each support. The legs of the rafters must be fixed at a step of 0.5-0.6 meters. On the north side, then install a door frame measuring 0.7 by 1.8 meters and then hang the door.

Then it is recommended to make a steamer. Using thin boards or logs, create a rectangular frame for the northern and southern wooden panels. The frames are deepened by approximately 40-50 centimeters, they are filled with biofuel, which is covered with a sufficient amount of straw and covered with a thick layer of soil. Please note that the northern part of your greenhouse should be raised to a height of 10-15 centimeters above the southern part, which is necessary for even distribution of sunlight.

At this stage, you should stretch the film onto the frame of the greenhouse. It is better if a film of whole pieces is used for this purpose. The ends of the greenhouse are completely covered with film. The film must be secured using wooden slats - they are nailed directly to the supports themselves.

Creating ventilation

In the construction of protected soil, a greenhouse effect is created under the influence of solar heat. Due to the rapid rise, air stagnates in the greenhouse, which is an ideal environment for the spread of diseases and the proliferation of pests.

Therefore, it is recommended to regulate the microclimate in the greenhouse by creating a ventilation system that provides fresh air and maintains optimal air humidity. The operating mode of the ventilation system must be coordinated with the operation of shading and heating devices.

To ventilate greenhouses, it is customary to use side and roof vents, as well as doors. The surface of devices intended for ventilation should reach 20% of the total area of ​​the building. Ventilation promotes hardening of fruit and vegetable crops and is useful for seedlings that are grown for planting in open soil. Two weeks before planting seedlings, you need to ventilate the greenhouse day and night. During the day, ventilation should be completed no later than 16:00.

To keep the room warm, prevent drafts and strong gusts of wind from entering. When air is heated, its density decreases and it rises. If you place vents under the ridge, warm air will come out through them, and cold air will replace it through the doors, gaps between the glass and cracks.

In small greenhouses, it is enough to build 1 window on each side of the roof. In general, for every 2 meters of greenhouse length there should be at least 2 vents. If you have built a large greenhouse where you plan to grow alpine plants, in this case you will have to equip a continuous row of vents on both sides of the roof.

To speed up cooling and ensure complete air exchange, it is necessary to install side vents in the frame, which will be located slightly above the ground surface or at the level of the shelving. They can be made in the usual way or as blinds. The second option is best practiced if you plan to grow orchids and other tropical plants in the greenhouse. Side windows are not suitable for such plants, because on windy days strong air currents pass through them, which can harm the flowers.

Thus, you already know how to build a greenhouse with your own hands, choose a location for the greenhouse and its shape. Depending on your goals and financial capabilities, select the material for the coating and frame. Be sure to think about ventilation and the air exchange process in the greenhouse.

Greenhouses and greenhouses are a popular way of gardening. The special arrangement of the greenhouse inside gives us the opportunity to get a harvest earlier than in the open ground. And with the development of technology, setting up greenhouses has become a simple matter. For example, cellular polycarbonate is very useful - a lightweight and durable material from which you can quickly assemble a greenhouse of any size.

The height of the polycarbonate greenhouse should be such that nothing prevents the summer resident from caring for the plants, and there is enough space for climbing plants.

Inside, depending on the width, there should be two or three beds and paths between them. The width of the bed is calculated in such a way that you can care for the plants without stepping on the soil. Therefore, in narrower greenhouses, the beds are placed along the walls and made with a maximum width of a meter. If the greenhouse is wide, then the bed in the center can be made up to one and a half meters wide. The paths should be about 50 cm. But the arrangement of the greenhouse inside is not only beds, but also heating, ventilation and watering.

A polycarbonate greenhouse is usually heated by solar lighting. This is enough to grow good crops. For better light transmission, the walls and roof must be cleaned at least twice a season. For better heat accumulation, the northern side of the greenhouses is painted black.

But, if the greenhouse is used for growing seedlings or early vegetables, which means that work in it begins in winter, additional heating cannot be done without. For example, you can install a heated floor in a permanent greenhouse.

Ventilation of greenhouses can be done manually; to do this, you need to provide several vents in the design that can be opened during the day. It is important to remember that ventilation with an open door and an open window opposite it is a draft, which, on the contrary, is harmful to plants. The best option is one or two open windows on the side wall. In addition, there are various automatic ventilation systems on sale specifically for greenhouses - in case a summer resident cannot check the condition of the plants and the temperature in the greenhouse every day.

Watering plants is most conveniently done using an automatic system. Through it you can apply fertilizers in liquid form.

Video “Warm floor in a greenhouse”

This video summarizes the underfloor heating system in a greenhouse after a year of use.

Arranging a greenhouse for growing seedlings involves installing racks and shelves. In addition, you can combine it - leave beds with low-growing plants on the lower level, and make shelving above. Thanks to the ability of polycarbonate to transmit the maximum amount of sunlight, there will be enough lighting for all plants.

Shelving allows you to make the most of space, because they can be made into two or three tiers. The width of the racks is similar to the width of the bed - that is, about eighty centimeters with access from one side and up to one and a half meters if there is access from both sides. It makes sense to install sectional racks - these can be easily taken out of the greenhouse and returned back if the plants on which they are planted require hardening off in the open air.

The main tier of racks is the one on which work with plants, transplanting and picking will take place. It should be convenient for the summer resident, primarily in terms of height. The best option is the same height as the kitchen table.

Under the rack you can store the necessary equipment or agricultural chemicals.

Beds and paths

The width of the path in a polycarbonate greenhouse is determined by two parameters. Since maximum useful use of the internal space is necessary, the path should not be too wide. On the other hand, especially for large greenhouses, the path cannot be too narrow for a wheelbarrow to pass along it, for example, with a tomato harvest.

In this case, the paths should be made of non-slip material - perhaps from boards or bricks. It is irrational to leave the paths unpaved, since when watering the greenhouse, especially high beds, water can accumulate on such paths. In a permanent greenhouse, you can arrange paths with a slight slope and drainage along the edge.

Beds are the main element of any greenhouse. It would be optimal to make high beds, with a minimum height of twenty to twenty-five centimeters above the floor of the greenhouse. The benefit of such beds is that they warm up better and can be filled with properly prepared soil. The problem with raised beds is that they drain too well, which means they will need to be watered more often.

To construct a high bed, the planting area must be fenced with a border made of boards, tiles or slate with a height of twenty-five centimeters, and the fence, which will subsequently be subject to serious pressure from a layer of soil, must be secured. The easiest option is to drive pegs along the entire bed, on both sides of the border. The pool thus obtained must be lined with fine mesh to protect it from pests, then covered with prepared soil mixture.

Each type of plant has its own soil requirements. Of course, in gardening stores you can find ready-made mixtures for greenhouses suitable for a specific crop, but this is expensive. Therefore, most summer residents prefer to prepare the soil with their own hands, mixing garden soil, humus, sand, peat, sawdust and other additives in the required proportions. Regardless of the composition of the soil mixture, it must be steamed before using it in a greenhouse to destroy harmful microorganisms.

If climbing plants are planted in the garden bed, they need to be supported.

Other decor

The construction of a permanent greenhouse also provides for a quarantine zone, a place for storing equipment and other additional capabilities.

The easiest way to organize a quarantine zone is with an aquarium. When introducing new seedlings or potted plants into the greenhouse, you need to make sure that the plants themselves are healthy and that the soil is not contaminated with harmful microorganisms. For this purpose, “newcomers” are kept in a completely isolated area. You can assemble it yourself from profiles and glass or polycarbonate, or you can use a ready-made aquarium. The only requirement for the quarantine zone is that it must be located in the coolest and most shaded part of the greenhouse so that the plants inside do not overheat.

Sometimes a greenhouse requires additional lighting. For example, infrared lamps. For adult plants this is too expensive, but the benefits for seedlings are undoubted.

Video “How to choose a lamp for plants”

A large harvest directly depends on high-quality plant lighting. This video will help you understand plant lamps and choose the most suitable one.

Purpose

Like a greenhouse, a greenhouse is used to create a favorable microclimate when preparing seedlings or when fully growing tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and other plants.

In a broad sense, both structures are perceived as one and the same, although in fact a greenhouse is a small and unheated structure. A greenhouse is a larger building with a heating and ventilation system, which allows for the cultivation of many crops at any time of the year.

Design

The structure of greenhouses is quite simple. A frame is assembled from pipes, metal or wood, which is covered with film, polycarbonate, glass, acrylic and other light-penetrating materials. If the weight of the structure is very large, it is additionally installed on the foundation.

For ventilation, removable panels or opening transoms are provided. Heating is carried out using water heating with radiators, infrared heaters or hot air from heat sources outside the greenhouse.

Installation

Since sunlight is vital for plants, the greenhouse should be built on the south side. It is advisable to place it on a slope and closer to other buildings in order to protect it from the wind and have access to utilities. It is better to stay away from high fences and trees: they provide shade, and falling leaves reduce light transmission.

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• Assembly difficulty: low.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the frame can be replaced with plastic pipes, and the covering material with film.

The simplest design option, which is ideal for a small greenhouse. A frame made of reinforcement is installed directly on the bed, and agrofibre or, as it is also called, spunbond, is stretched over it. This material protects from the sun while retaining heat and moisture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are chosen arbitrarily, depending on the footage of available materials. For example, it is convenient to cut six-meter reinforcement in half. With such a length of arcs, the width of the greenhouse is about 80 cm. The arcs themselves should be installed in increments of 1.2–1.5 m.

teplica-exp.ru

2. Arcs are bent from reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. Next, drip irrigation tubes or an old hose are put on them, leaving 10–20 cm at each end so that it is convenient to insert the structure into the ground.

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3. After marking the installation locations for the arcs, scraps of steel pipes or drilled wooden pegs 20–30 cm long are driven into the ground, and the reinforcement is inserted into them.

stopdacha.ru

4. Spunbond can be stitched on a sewing machine, forming pocket folds that fit directly onto the arches. Another option is to install plastic pipe guides on the sides of the beds and attach agrofibre to them using purchased clips or cut pieces of pipes. The covering material can eventually be easily lifted by simply removing them.

stblizko.ru

5. If desired, you can attach the arcs not to pipes driven into the ground, but to metal guides rigidly fixed at the edges of the base. This design will allow you to fold the greenhouse like an accordion, simply by moving the arcs.

must.kz

6. The free ends of the spunbond at the ends must be collected, tied in a knot and secured with a peg, earth or other means.

samara.kinplast.ru

Here are step-by-step video instructions.

dachadecor.com

• Assembly difficulty: low.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: Instead of film, you can use agrofibre, and make the door on a wooden frame.

A budget option for a greenhouse made from masonry mesh and regular film, which is quickly assembled and has a number of advantages. The design does not require a foundation; due to its elasticity, it is resistant to wind loads, and is also convenient for tying up plants from the inside. At the same time, by folding the mesh, you can get different sizes depending on your needs.

1. Wooden beams, steel angles, pipes or channels are used as load-bearing posts. They are hammered at a distance of 1.2–1.4 m.
2. The greenhouse arch is formed from two pieces of mesh laid overlapping. From below it is attached with wire to the posts, and from above it is fastened together with the same wire or plastic ties.
3. To strengthen the structure, T-shaped supports made of wooden beams 50 × 50 mm are installed in the middle of the passage. If desired, they can also be driven into the ground.
4. A film is put on a dome assembled from a mesh, which is held in place by strings of twine or rope stretched over it.
5. The side walls are also made of film, which is folded up and attached to the dome with tape. In several places at the top and bottom, small windows are cut for ventilation of the greenhouse.
6. The door is made on a wooden frame or made from the same film, which is cut and attached to the side wall with magnets in the manner of door mosquito nets.

stroydachusam.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.

Another way to quickly build a greenhouse. A wooden beam is used as a frame, and stretch packaging film is used as a covering material. With a large number of layers, it transmits light a little worse than ordinary PVC film, but on hot days this is even a plus.

1. The film is sold in rolls, so the dimensions of the greenhouse are selected according to the cutting of the timber and taking into account your wishes.
2. For the base, steel corners 40 × 40 mm are used, in which holes for attaching the frame posts are pre-drilled. They can also be treated with bitumen or painted to extend their service life.
3. The corners are driven into the ground, and pieces of timber are screwed to them with self-tapping screws. A lower frame, in turn, is attached to the beam, on which the side walls and roof are assembled. All corners are reinforced with additional inclined sections of timber.
4. The door is assembled on a wooden frame in one of the side walls and installed on hinges.
5. Film wrapping is done in parts, in several layers and overlapping. First, the gables are installed, then the roof slopes, and only then the walls. You need to start wrapping them from the bottom so that running rainwater does not get inside the greenhouse.
6. After wrapping with glazing bead or river, the door and its outer contour of the door are trimmed, and then the film around the frame is cut through. In the same way you can make a window in the opposite wall.

teplica-piter.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: desirable.
• Price: minimal.
• Variations: You can combine frames with film to make a roof, side walls or doors.

The main advantage of this design is its low cost. Old window frames can be found, if not free, then for a nominal price. In addition, glass transmits light much better than film and polycarbonate. The windows already have vents for ventilation, and if you select a balcony block, you will also have a ready-made door.

1. The size of the greenhouse depends on the size of the frames and the interior space you need. Aim for a width of about 2.5 m to give a passage of about 60 cm and two beds of 80–90 cm each.
2. Windows and glass have considerable weight, so it is advisable to install them on a solid base. This can be a shallow strip foundation, a massive wooden beam or a metal profile.
3. A wooden frame or pillars are installed on the foundation at the corners, and frames are attached to them and to each other. The gaps between each block are covered with putty and clogged with strips of laminate backing or a thin wooden strip.
4. A door is made in the front wall. Its role can be played by one of the windows, a balcony door or a wooden frame covered with film. Ventilation is provided through window vents.
5. To reduce weight, it is better to make the roof from wooden beams and film. You can use the same window frames, but in this case you will have to reinforce the structure with supports in the middle of the passage so that it can withstand a lot of weight.

maja-dacha.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate

A greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes attracts with its simplicity, reliability and low price. The materials are sold at any hardware store, and assembly does not require any special skills or tools. You can even do without a soldering iron if you connect the pipes not with fittings, but with through bolts.

1. As always, sizes are selected based on needs and available materials. Polypropylene pipe is usually sold in 4 m sections, and it is easy to cut and splice using couplings.
2. The first step is to calculate the length of the pipe and the number of fittings required. It’s better to take it with a reserve so that you don’t have to run to the store later.
3. The main parts are soldered from pipes, tees and crosspieces - arches with crossbars and longitudinal inserts.
4. Next, the greenhouse is assembled from the prepared parts. If a soldering iron is not at hand, you can use bolts with nuts and washers to connect, which are inserted into pipes drilled through.
5. The film is secured to the edges of the frame using purchased pipe clamps or homemade clips made from slightly larger diameter pipes cut along sections.

legkovmeste.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate.

A classic version of a greenhouse, used for decades and not losing popularity. Wooden beams are easy to process, have low weight and sufficient strength, and also retain heat well. The structure does not require a capital foundation - you can get by with a frame made of timber of a larger cross-section or use steel corners as a base.

1. The standard cutting of timber is 6 m, so they start from this figure. Most often, greenhouses are made 3 × 6 m, but if desired, the dimensions can be either reduced or increased. The finished project with material calculations is available at this link.
   
2. The assembly of the frame is the same as for a greenhouse made of stretch film. Steel corners are driven into the ground at intervals of about 1 m at the points where the posts are attached. In each of them, two holes are drilled for self-tapping screws or one for M8 or M10 bolts.
3. Vertical posts are fixed to the corners along the entire perimeter, which are tied with an upper contour made of timber. To add rigidity in the corners, one jib is added on each side
4. Triangular roof trusses are installed and secured opposite the racks. The slope angle is selected depending on the snow load. So, if there is a lot of snow in your region, the angle of inclination should be greater (the roof is higher and sharper).
5. The door and window for ventilation are assembled on wooden frames and installed in the front and rear walls, respectively.
6. At the end, the frame is covered with film, which is attached to the beam using a lath stuffed on top. All sharp parts on the wood are rounded off or covered with a soft material so that the film does not tear during operation.

• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: necessary.
• Price: high.
• Variations: the foundation can be made of wooden beams or using steel reinforcement, angle or pipes driven into the ground.

The most popular and modern version of the greenhouse. This design is much more expensive than others and is difficult to manufacture, but it will last for decades. Polycarbonate can withstand the open sun for 10–12 years, and the frame made of a profile steel pipe is almost eternal.

1. The standard size of polycarbonate is 2,100 × 6,000 mm, so it is convenient to cut it into four or two parts with dimensions of 2.1 × 1.5 m or 2.1 × 3 m, respectively. Such pieces will be optimal for a greenhouse measuring 3 × 6 meters.

2. For reliable fastening and distribution of wind loads, a foundation is made under the greenhouse. This can be a shallow strip foundation, a frame made of antiseptic-treated wooden beams, or steel corners driven into the ground.

YouTube channel of Evgeniy Kolomakin

3. The design of the greenhouse consists of an arch, which is formed using arcs from a profiled steel pipe 20 × 20 mm, located at a distance of one meter from each other.

4. The arcs are fastened together by longitudinal sections from the same pipe, which are connected by welding.

5. A door is installed at the front end: a frame measuring 1.85 × 1 m is welded from a pipe, which is attached to the frame on hinges. A window for ventilation measuring 1 × 1 m is made according to the same principle and is located at the rear end.

6. Covering with polycarbonate begins from the ends. The sheet is cut in half, attached to the profile using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers, and then trimmed along the contour of the arc with a sharp knife. After this, the side wall sheets are installed.

techkomplect.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.

A simpler and more affordable option for a polycarbonate greenhouse. It does not use expensive metal pipe that needs to be welded. And galvanized profiles for plasterboard systems are used as frame material. They are easily cut with metal scissors and fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

1. When choosing sizes, as usual, we start from the parameters of polycarbonate sheets. Since the profiles lose rigidity when bent, it is better to choose a gable greenhouse rather than an arched one.
2. By analogy with arches made of a metal pipe, a frame made of galvanized profile is assembled from ribs in the form of a house.
3. The assembled modules are installed on a frame made of wooden beams and tied together with sections of profiles. Doors and a window for ventilation are made in the front and rear walls.
4. At the end, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, which are secured using special self-tapping screws with plastic thermal washers.

juliana.ru

• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: necessary.
• Price: high.
• Variations: To make the structure lighter, you can make the top from polycarbonate or film.

The most correct, but rather labor-intensive and expensive option for a greenhouse. The main advantage of glass is excellent light transmittance and durability. However, due to the heavy weight of the structure, a strong metal frame and foundation are required. In addition to arranging a strip foundation, the difficulty also lies in the need to use welding.

1. When it comes to choosing sizes, a glass greenhouse is no exception - everything is strictly individual and taking into account the available materials.
2. The impressive weight of glass and metal frame requires a full foundation. Usually a trench 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide is dug around the perimeter, wooden formwork 20 cm high is installed on top and the whole thing is filled with concrete. Also, before pouring, anchor bolts are inserted into the formwork to secure the frame.
3. A metal channel or corner is attached to the resulting base using anchors. Then racks 1.6–1.8 m high are welded to this frame from two folded corners 45 × 45 mm. At the top they are fastened with longitudinal sections of the corner.
4. Next, rafters from the same double corners are placed on the resulting box. At the bottom they are welded to the posts, and at the top - to another corner, which acts as a ridge beam.
5. A door is inserted into one of the walls, and a window is installed in the lid or wall for ventilation.
6. The glass is installed in the frames obtained by using double corners and secured with homemade gluers - thin aluminum or steel plates bent in the shape of the letter Z. The gluer is attached to the corner with one hook, and to the glass with the second.

pinterest.com

• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: desirable.
• Price: high.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with polycarbonate or glass, and the frame can be made of profiles or pipes.

A domed or geodesic greenhouse attracts primarily with its unusual appearance: it consists entirely of many triangles and hexagons. Other advantages include high structural strength and best light transmittance. The geodesic dome has only one drawback: it is difficult to manufacture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are selected individually, based on the required area. Since the frame design is quite complex, calculations are the most time-consuming part of the project.
2. In order not to get confused and take into account all the nuances, it is convenient to carry out the calculation using a special calculator. In it you can set the dimensions, select the “thickness” of the frame and get a list of all the necessary parts for assembly with dimensions, as well as their approximate cost.
3. Regardless of its dimensions, a domed greenhouse is highly durable and is not afraid of winds, so there is no need to make a foundation for it. However, since the construction of a structure is very labor-intensive, it is rational to extend its service life and equip a lightweight strip foundation for attaching the frame.
4. The ribs of the structure consist of triangles, which, in turn, are assembled from a wooden batten according to a template. First you need to prepare the required number of such triangles.
5. The greenhouse is assembled like a magnetic construction set from childhood. Starting from the bottom, rows of triangles are assembled one after another, which are fastened together using self-tapping screws and form a dome. If everything is calculated correctly, it will close at the top and will be perfectly shaped.
6. One of the triangles in the roof is made folding or removable to provide ventilation. The door is either installed in a polygon shape, or made in a traditional shape with a mortise frame.
7. The film covers the finished dome or is stretched over each triangle at the assembly stage. In the first case, it will be easier to replace the film when it breaks. The second one gives a more aesthetic appearance. Which one to choose - decide for yourself.