5252 07/26/2019 6 min. Catharanthus is a plant that decorates...
Today, gardeners have the opportunity to choose roses from a huge assortment presented in stores, nurseries and markets. It is known that flowers are divided into several varieties, suitable for various purposes of landscape design.
So, climbing roses are best suited for decorating arches, vertical structures, and trellises - we’ll talk about them in the article. Let's find out how climbing species differ from climbing ones and get acquainted with the most popular varieties.
Let us immediately note that both species belong to climbing species. Speaking in strict scientific language, climbing roses do not exist at all - they are just a subcategory of the climbing species.
So, all climbing roses are divided into two large categories:
- large-flowered (climbers and climbers);
- small-flowered (ramblers).
The second category is those roses that are popularly called climbing roses. This is a small-flowered climbing variety with smaller buds, but multiple. The flowers are also very attractive, picturesque, and have a bit of a vintage charm. All small-flowered varieties originated from one progenitor - the multifloral rosehip.
Climbing roses - detailed description
Climbing small-flowered or climbing roses have certain characteristics, which we will consider further.
Escapes
Flowers have elongated shoots, either rising in an arched manner, or creeping below. The shoots of the plant definitely need support - this should be provided before planting. In most varieties, shoots reach five meters in length, but there are varieties with shorter lashes.
Bloom
Most often, climbing roses boast very large inflorescences, consisting of many smaller buds. One such bud is only 2-4 cm in diameter, but due to their impressive number, the rose bush looks very impressive: elegant and picturesque.
The buds usually emit a strong, very pleasant smell that can be felt from a distance.
If the wintering was successful and the shoots did not get frostbite, the flowering of the climbing rose is simply amazing: often the greenery and shoots are not visible behind the numerous luxurious inflorescences. The downside is that it blooms once; this variety of roses usually does not have a second phase. In total, the decorative period lasts 6-7 weeks.
A special feature is that buds this season appear exclusively on well-wintered shoots that grew last year. This feature makes the cultivation of climbing varieties problematic in the northern regions: not all varieties can survive the cold, even under cover.
Varieties
Let's get acquainted with the most popular varieties of climbing roses among gardeners.
Excelsa
Probably the most famous variety of small-flowered climbing rose today. Excelsa grows very quickly: in a short time the shoots become four meters high. The flowers have a double structure, reach 3-5 cm in diameter, the color of the buds is crimson and bright. We note the frost resistance of this variety, but, unfortunately, the plant has average resistance to diseases.
Amethyst
A climbing rose that blooms only once per season. It has very impressive thorns located on three-meter shoots. The flowers are double, collected in groups of up to forty pieces, thereby forming large, elegant inflorescences.
The color of the petals is attractive, purple-pink. The aroma of the buds is weakly expressed, but the diameter is decent - about 5 cm. The variety is cold-resistant. Do not confuse this variety with the hybrid tea variety of the same name.
American Pilar
A mega-popular climbing rose variety, from the very moment of its appearance at the first exhibition. Flowering later, single: begins to bloom when all other varieties have already finished flowering.
The buds are spherical, lush, and the petals are crimson in color. The middle of the bud is lighter, decorated with golden stamens. The scourges grow up to 3-4 meters and have large red thorns. The foliage, initially green, turns red in autumn. This variety will look best on a trellis.
Blue Magenta
A charming climbing rose with velvety violet-purple petals. The buds turn out to be very lush, their diameter is 6-7 cm. Flowering is single-phase, resistance to diseases is average, but resistance to cold is high.
Bobby James
This rose has surprisingly long shoots, capable of reaching 8 meters with suitable support. The buds are white-cream, the petals are semi-double. The flowers can boast, in addition to their magnificent appearance, also a delightful aroma: strongly pronounced, very pleasant.
The flowering is single-phase, but stunningly lush and beautiful: the bush is literally shrouded in buds, like a white cloud. The frost resistance of the plant is high.
Malvern Hills
A small-flowered climbing rose with two-phase flowering, with shoots 3.5 meters long. It is not suitable for single cultivation, since the vines are very flexible and thin, and cannot develop without support. This is the best option for growing on a trellis.
The buds, 5 cm in diameter, have a semi-double structure and are pale yellow in color. The shrub blooms very vigorously and luxuriantly: the buds completely cover the plant. Very high resistance to both cold and disease.
White Flight
A once-blooming climbing rose, it is distinguished by its extraordinary decorativeness and visual appeal. Initially pink buds become slightly greenish as they open, acquiring vintage chic and charm. The diameter of one bud is about 3-4 cm, the petals have wavy edges. The length of the shoots is 3-4 meters. Resistance to diseases and frost is average.
Dorothy Dennison
One of the world's most popular climbing rose varieties. The shoots are 3.5 meters long and equipped with sparse thorns, the foliage is large. The semi-double flowers have a diameter of 4-4.5 cm and a delicate pink tint. One inflorescence can have from 7 to 30 buds. The variety has good frost resistance.
Flamentanz
A wonderful decorative rose-view. The buds in this case are quite small, but they grow in large numbers and have a very bright, attractive color - fiery red.
In landscape design, the shrub looks harmonious and appropriate, ideal for vertical gardening. The rose blooms wildly and for quite a long time: for almost 2.5 months. However, in order for the shrub to enjoy long-term flowering, it should initially be planted in partial shade. The Flamentanz rose is quite resistant to frost, tolerates drought more difficult, and does not like high humidity.
Santana
This climbing rose boasts petals with an amazing velvety texture. The buds have a rich, bright red hue (see photo), resistant to sun fading and fading. The plant, having an amazing decorative effect, is also uniquely unpretentious in care. Rose Santana can grow in any soil, blooms in any weather, and does not lose its attractiveness even in the rain.
This plant is ideal for decorating areas located in lowlands - the rose is resistant to high humidity. The flower is not afraid of frost, it can bloom for a long time, producing large buds throughout the flowering period. The only drawback is the weak aroma.
Snow Goose
The Snow Goose variety is distinguished by multiple small (4 cm) snow-white buds. When the bush blooms, it looks like one big snowdrift - hence the name. The buds are terry, lush, in one inflorescence there can be from 5 to 20 pieces.
The shoots have a small number of thorns, which makes caring for the plant easier. One shoot stretches up to 3 meters in length. In addition to its exceptional decorative properties, the variety is also frost-resistant and has excellent immunity. In hot climates it can bloom continuously, growing up to 5 meters in length.
Super Excelsa
This is the same Excelsa variety, but only an improved modification. The plant is able to bloom twice per season and has higher disease resistance. The shrub is able to withstand even significant frosts and also performs well in hot climates.
The shoots grow only one and a half to two meters in length, but the flowering is abundant, lush and long-lasting. The color of the buds is bright crimson, the diameter of one bud is 3-4 cm. The flowers are collected in groups of 5-10 pieces, the aroma is slightly expressed.
Use for garden decoration
Climbing varieties of roses are wonderfully suitable for landscaping and decorating a garden landscape. Thanks to their ability to grow vertically like a vine, roses are ideal for decorating arches, various elongated and curved structures, house walls, and gazebos.
Small-flowered climbing roses have long shoots that are very flexible and pliable. Thanks to this ability, a creeping rose can entwine a structure of the most bizarre shape, and its shoots will not be harmed at all.
You can also use flowers to decorate vertical straight structures: trellises, trellises, fences. But large-flowered varieties are also suitable for this purpose, but climbing roses have no competitors in decorating original curved designs.
It is possible to use existing fixtures and structures as support for shrubs: fences, house walls, gazebos. You can also build special lightweight structures for this purpose: wire arches, obelisks, pergolas, trellises, etc. Such structures, entwined with beautiful roses, can represent real romantic corners in the garden. Obelisks and columns can be part of a flower bed, mixborder, or an independent design element.
An arch entwined with climbing roses can be installed at the entrance to the site, in a certain area within the site. In this way, the entrance is unobtrusively and originally indicated, indicating the end of one zone and the beginning of another.
If you want to keep your garden in a casual style, but at the same time well-groomed, you can plant climbing roses freely. Just don’t forget to trim the plants and take care of them so that the garden doesn’t look neglected and wild.
In order for a climbing rose to feel good, grow well and bloom luxuriantly, it absolutely needs support. Genetically, plants have very flexible shoots that, without support, will simply creep along the ground. By the way, tying up the lashes of a climbing rose is very easy: thanks to their length and flexibility, the shoots are mobile and obedient.
It is best to form the bush in a fan-shape: so that the lashes are evenly spread out to the sides. This way they will be equally illuminated by the sun, and the buds will be the same size and color. You cannot tighten the wire too tightly when tying the lashes: the shoot becomes thicker over time and can be crushed by the tight wire.
The formation of a climbing rose should begin when the plant is just planted. The shrub grows extremely quickly, and there is a high risk of missing the right moment for gartering: the lashes will become much less flexible over time.
We got acquainted with the most beautiful and most suitable varieties of climbing roses for amateur decorative gardening. As you can see, the range is rich and varied - it is possible to choose an option for a garden with any design, to decorate any zones on the site.
Climbing roses (photos and videos of these blooming beauties are simply mesmerizing) are an aristocratic perennial, with graceful leaves and an abundance of bright fragrant flowers; they act as an elegant and sophisticated decoration of the garden all summer long. Growing and caring for them largely repeats the agricultural techniques used in cultivating bush roses, but there are some important features.
Climbing roses: planting, care, preparation for winter
Magnificently blooming climbing roses are ideal for, but getting a magical carpet of beautiful flowers is only possible if you ensure proper planting and care of the rose.
Landing
To plant a climbing rose, select a sunny, well-ventilated place, so the optimal planting for a light-loving rose is a wall or support with a southern or southwestern exposure. With good lighting, growth develops quickly, which can bloom as early as next year. The soil is fertile, moderately moist, with good drainage, loose. Planting a bush in a hole is preceded by adding half a bucket of rotted manure into the hole and good watering.
Advice! Roses cannot tolerate marshy soil, so the optimal level of groundwater is at least 1 -1.5, otherwise roses should be planted at higher elevations.
Even if the climbing rose is planted for decoration purposes fence or walls, the distance to them should be at least 50 cm, otherwise, due to lack of space for development, the roots of the rose will suffer from depletion.
Trimming
Correct and timely pruning allows you to form the correct healthy crown and achieve abundant and long flowering. You need to prune a climbing rose in late summer or early autumn, after flowering has completely finished. Damaged and diseased shoots are pruned first, leaving the strongest and most developed annual shoots. The main goal of pruning is to replace old shoots with new, annual ones, while leaving two-year-old shoots - the bulk of the flowers will be concentrated on them next summer.
Garter
Caring for climbing roses must include control over the direction of growth of the bush, so gartering a climbing rose should begin as early as possible. In this case, it is not at all necessary to direct the main branches straight up - this can lead to the fact that at some point all the flowers and foliage will concentrate in the upper part of the plant, due to which it will lose its aesthetics, exposing unattractive “bare” shoots below. To avoid this, you need to direct the main branches as horizontally as possible - this will provoke the appearance of side shoots that develop vertically. Using this approach, you can not only perfectly camouflage a wall or trellis, but also achieve long-lasting and luxurious flowering.
Another way to camouflage a wall is to arrange the shoots in a “fan”, directing the side shoots up and to the side, positioned freely, they will not interfere with each other.
Advice! If a climbing rose is planted near a pole, then in order to achieve the correct formation of the crown, it will be enough to simply twist the rose shoots in a spiral.
Shelter for the winter
Despite the fact that climbing roses are quite winter-hardy, even in the middle zone they need to be covered. Care and preparation begins in early autumn - soil loosening is stopped, nitrogen fertilizers are applied (they are replaced with potassium fertilizers, which accelerate the ripening of the bark), and watering is reduced. There is no need to rush to cover roses in the fall - in warm weather the plant may begin to grow or die out. Sheltering climbing roses is carried out with the onset of stable frosts, choosing a dry, non-rainy (non-snowy) day for this.
The main condition for the plant to survive the winter well is to maintain an air layer under the shelter (between the plant and roofing felt, film, spruce branches), because in most cases roses die not from frost, but with the onset of spring, from damping off or getting wet.
If possible, remove the plant from its support, cut off damaged and diseased leaves, and clear the leaves. After this, the branches are tied with twine (rope) and pressed to the ground using hooks (wooden or metal). (photo 1,2). In this case, it is strictly forbidden to lay the rose directly on the ground; you must first place spruce branches or dry leaves. The top of the lash can be covered with roofing felt, spruce branches, burlap, film or dry leaves.
As a support for climbing roses, you can use both the walls of buildings or fences, as well as arches, bersoes, specially designed and installed for these purposes. pergolas, obelisks and trellises. Trellis, berso and pergolas entwined with roses will help create a special intimate romantic atmosphere in secluded corners of the garden all summer long. Columns and obelisks are installed in flower beds or on the lawn; they can be either a completely independent element of landscape design or part of mixborder.
Arches entwined with climbing roses are often installed at the entrance to the front garden or garden, thereby marking the transition from one zone of the garden (plot) to another. If you place several arches along the path, maintaining a distance of several meters between them, and supplement them with a number of molded trees and shrubs, then the landscape will acquire a characteristic classical garden solemnity and pomp. However, planting free-form plants will help achieve the exact opposite effect, adding romance and ease to the landscape.
Climbing rose in the garden interiorAdvice! When choosing a design for a support for a climbing rose, you should always take into account that its material and design as a whole must correspond to the general architectural style of the house and garden.
The garden rose is considered the queen of flowers. Summer residents claim that a climbing rose requires special attention, and only then will it please the eye for a long time. We will talk about the proper care of a climbing rose, the features of its planting and shelter for the winter in our article.
Dates for planting roses in Russia
Planting of climbing roses in the Moscow region and central Russia is carried out in late April - early May, at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees Celsius, but before the buds begin to bloom. According to observations, climbing roses planted in spring have a slight lag in growth compared to autumn seedlings by an average of 14 days.
Planting climbing roses in summer is recommended for self-rooted plants (grown from cuttings, layering or propagated by dividing the bush) in containers with a closed root system. Beginning gardeners are advised to purchase them, however, it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding in terms of care, especially in terms of shelter for the winter.
Planting climbing roses in the south is carried out in the fall, until mid-October. After just 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root shoots. In winter, the young rhizome will harden, and with the onset of spring it will develop simultaneously with the above-ground part and form a strong bush.
Site selection and site preparation
The ideal place for planting climbing roses is a well-lit, flat and dry area with a slight slope to drain rain and melt water or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and wetlands for planting. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the roots, and lack of sun and ventilation will lead to fungus.
For the same reason, the depth of groundwater in the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow choosing such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial hill. A large stone is placed at the bottom of the planting hole, which prevents the roots from going deeper and starting to grow horizontally. Climbing roses planted using this technology require additional protection of the root system. The roots are well compacted when planting, they are mulched with tree bark or sawdust.
If groundwater lies close to the surface, caring for climbing roses requires the presence of a room on the site for moving the bushes for winter storage. A dry heated basement or garage, insulated veranda or terrace are suitable for this purpose.
Repeated planting of roses in one place is not advisable.
A place where roses have previously grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. If there is no alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced.
The soil for planting in spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5 are most suitable for climbing roses.
Coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leaf soil are added to the clay soil (6:1:1:1:1); in sandy - clay, turf soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg of wood ash, half a kilo of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk are also added to the earth mixture, depending on the pH of the soil.
Climbing rose is a perennial plant with powerful roots that should be freely located. Therefore, for one bush, they dig a hole up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.
The top layer of soil is set aside and the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small crushed stone, and a prepared earthen mixture is laid on top 40 cm high, which is sprinkled with the deposited layer of soil.
Climbing roses planting and care
Saplings with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. When planting in the spring, the rose shoot is shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In autumn, the stems are not pruned; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom. The roots are cut to 25 cm of living white tissue and sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection.
The prepared plant is dipped into a creamy clay mash and 1/10 of fresh manure for an hour. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Bud or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are pre-diluted in 0.5 water.
The grafting site for climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can take root. When planting, make sure that the root system is straightened and that no air voids are formed when covered with soil. Caring for climbing roses in summer involves carefully removing wild rose hips with a sharp knife, leaving no stumps, unnecessary cuts or damage.
After planting, the soil is compacted and watered. To water self-rooted climbing roses, use a mixture, dissolving a tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin per 10 liters of water. Chemicals enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plant from drying out, the bush is hilled and mulched. At a distance of 20 cm, place a support for further garter. Climbing roses planted in spring are covered with film for 2 weeks for better restoration and adaptation of the roots.
Caring for a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, plants do not require feeding. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, loosen and mulch the soil, and tie the bush to a support. When stems grow up to 3 m long, the support is removed and the stems are treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Climbing rose planting and care video
Caring for a climbing rose after flowering
To give the bush the desired shape, from the second year after planting in the ground, pruning begins. A climbing rose, the care of which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of shoots, is always pruned according to the general rule, regardless of the variety - the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.
In place of the old ones, young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.
Caring for remontant varieties of roses
Roses of remontant varieties are thinned out in early spring and after flowering has ended. Strong formative pruning is carried out before the end of June so that the young shoots have time to mature before winter. In a later procedure, they may die.
Photos and detailed descriptions of climbing varieties of roses can be found in our material.
Shelter for the winter and caring for roses in the spring
Shelter for wintering is carried out in two ways: by untying and bending it to the ground or by securing it to a support.
An unsupported way to shelter for the winter
The bush is untied from the support. It is bent to the ground at a slight angle and covered with spruce branches.
The top is wrapped in fiberglass, which allows the plant to breathe and does not allow water to pass through. The soil under the plant is covered with dry soil and mulched with fallen leaves.
Method of shelter on a support
The bush is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofibre or burlap and secured with twine.
Removing winter cover and spring care
In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely after the snow melts. The soil under the bushes is loosened and fresh compost is added. The plant is inspected for diseases and damage, cutting off the affected area if necessary.
Areas with mold are treated with 15% copper sulfate, and the stems are tied horizontally to a support to reduce the formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds form along the entire length of the main stems, not just at the top.
Climbing roses, planted and cared for according to all the rules, require a mandatory garter:
- For tying, choose plastic or silicone twine, rather than wire wrapped in paper. It disintegrates over time due to moisture, and metal can damage the plant;
- The binding should fit the stem tightly, but not injure it;
- Supports must be checked regularly and, if necessary, repaired or completely replaced.
Keep an eye on the supports and garter
It is important to remember that poor-quality support or poor twine can break the stems of the bush and seriously damage it.
Bottom line
It is not so difficult to grow an incredibly beautiful climbing rose in your own garden, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. If you follow the planting rules and proper care, the climbing plant will delight you with its gorgeous buds for many years.
Landscape design is not just about selecting and planting plants. This is the creation of a beautiful, cozy and comfortable space around. Landscape design includes laying out the garden, creating flower beds and rockeries, arranging a relaxation area and presenting the main entrance.
Purpose and methods of vertical gardening
Vertical gardening has not only a decorative purpose, but also a completely practical one: having even a very small area at your disposal, it is possible to place an additional number of your favorite plants, as well as hide unpresentable outbuildings or the view behind the fence.
The leader in vertical gardening is, of course, the climbing rose.
Its long graceful branches, strewn with luxurious flowers, will perfectly cope with the decoration of the walls of the gazebo in the relaxation corner, and will decorate the unsightly wall of the house and other buildings.
Climbing roses are an excellent option for creating decorative columns and pyramids; they go well with small architectural forms, and planted along the fence, such roses will cover the garden from prying eyes and create an incredible atmosphere of sophistication and luxury!
Climbing roses do not have tendrils with which they could cling to supports and cannot wrap around the supports themselves, so they need to be tied up.
If you don’t help the climbing rose to attach to the support, it will simply creep along the ground; by the way, in this form it is also used in landscape design as a ground cover. This method of using climbing roses helps to hide defects and unevenness in the landscape, as well as all kinds of hatches and communications.
Supports for climbing roses
There are many types of supports for climbing plants. Many of them look attractive and decorative even in winter.
So, if you have placed your beauty in the center of the flower garden, a support of a beautiful graceful shape will do, which itself will serve as decoration while the rose is under cover in winter.
The umbrella-shaped support looks unusual; when the roses reach the top, their shoots will hang down in cascades, creating an unusual garden structure.
In a classical style garden, garden sculptures and statues and forged elements are often used as a support for climbing roses. Trellises are often used to support climbing roses.
They can be different: from simple lattice panels of regular geometric shape to exquisite ones, consisting of carved figured panels with spiers and curls. The trellis can be stationary or portable.
For a stationary trellis, the support pillars, to which the panels are then attached, are dug to a depth of at least 60 -70 cm, and for the reliability of the structure they are secured with concrete.
A portable trellis can be placed in any corner of the garden, its location can be changed, which allows you to decorate the same space in different ways.
In order to attractively design the gazebo and its alley, decorate the front entrance, and also separate one area of the site from another, landscape designers use pergolas and arches.
Pergolas- these are several pillars with transverse beams or several arches above the path, connected to each other, from which a green tunnel is obtained. A pergola entwined with climbing roses provides shade and coolness. The pergola arch can be semicircular or rectangular.
Arch is a multifunctional structure in garden design, serving as a passage from one garden area to another. Several arches arranged in a row form a blooming luxurious arcade.
For comfortable movement, pergolas and arches must have sufficient width and height. The height should be at least 2.5 m, and the width should allow you to easily walk or stand under the pergola.
Arches or pergolas entwined with climbing roses and gazebos surrounded by them give the garden a new breath and special romance. Arches and obelisks made of metal give the garden visual airiness, special charm and make it more comfortable.
Pergolas and trellises made of wood or metal give the garden a certain southern flavor with a special charm and dreams of the sea and wanderings. The greatest effect can be achieved by planting (at a distance of at least 60 cm) different varieties of roses near each side of the arch, which would be harmoniously combined in shade and have flowers of different sizes.
Choose varieties of roses with elastic, well-bending vines. Intertwining over time, climbing roses of different varieties form a single lush bush with flowers of different colors and sizes. The use of re-blooming varieties of roses will prolong the decorativeness and elegance of arches and pergolas.
Color combinations
The combination of any of the colors of climbing roses with a white rose looks very colorful and bright. Its white flowers will add freshness and solemnity to such a composition.
To create a composition of continuous flowering, it is necessary to select climbing roses with different terms and duration of flowering, harmonizing in color. For the same purpose, other climbing plants, such as clematis and princelings, are often planted next to climbing roses.
When designing a plot, it is important not only to properly plan the territory, but also to select varieties of roses that will decorate the garden and will delight you with a variety of colors and flower shapes, abundant and long-lasting flowering, as well as a pleasant and healing aroma.
When decorating a romantic garden, it is better to use climbing roses of creamy pink, light yellow or pale pink color.
This color scheme will relax and give peace. A garden that lifts your spirits should be bright, cheerful and festive even in cloudy weather.
Many roses of bright red, orange, hot pink, bright crimson, yellow, golden, reddish-yellow variegated, striped colors are usually planted in it. If such a riot of colors is still too bright for you, then this color scheme can be harmonized and balanced by planting several varieties of white roses.
How to plant roses correctly?
Landscape design specialists advise planting climbing varieties at a distance of 50-60 cm from the support, support trellises, and arches.
If the support has a concrete base, it is necessary to prevent the rose roots from coming into contact with it, in order to avoid freezing in winter. All roses, including climbing ones, prefer a warm and sunny southern exposure and do not tolerate stagnation of water at the roots.
It is advisable to cover the bushes from northern winds. When planting, the lashes are cut to 30-35 cm and the roots are shortened slightly to bring the above-ground and underground parts into line. When planting climbing roses, it is necessary to provide a place where you can lay their vines for shelter for the winter.
Sheltering roses for the winter
During the summer period, the climbing rose grows lashes 2-3.5 m long, depending on the characteristics of the variety and care of the plant. With the onset of frost, roses are removed from their supports and placed on spruce branches (spruce branches).
The top is also covered with spruce branches and non-woven breathable material. You should not use film for covering, as during thaws the roses will suffer from damping off. In the spring of next year, only the frozen and frosted shoots and the ends of the shoots on the strong outer bud are pruned.
The shoots that survived after overwintering are first spread on the ground so that strong replacement shoots develop at the base of the bush, ensuring flowering of the bush the next year. After the young replacement shoots reach a length of 50-70 cm, the old shoots on which flowering should occur this year are tied to supports.
If climbing roses overwinter on supports, they are wrapped in non-woven covering material and remain in this form until spring.
Important!
Let us highlight the points that you need to pay attention to when decorating the landscape with climbing roses:
- the dimensions of all garden structures must correspond to the size of the house and garden
- keep the proportions
- erected arches and pergolas, trellises and other supports must be strong and well secured
- for a successful design and long-lasting effect, take into account the plants’ requirements for fertility, water and air permeability of the soil, watering regime and lighting
- a stylish garden is not a huge number of roses planted according to the principle “the more the better,” but the most decorative combination of them.
Garden ensembles created with the help of climbing roses are particularly elegant, but to achieve a good result, you need the right approach to growing them. We will tell you about the secrets of planting and caring for this fashionable and beautiful plant.
About the varieties and varieties of climbing roses
All climbing roses are divided into 3 groups: ramblers (small-flowered), large-flowered (Climber) and Climbing (climbing), distinguished by even larger flowers. The difference between them is clearly visible in the photo.
Our most popular varieties include:
Landing
The climbing rose, the planting and care of which is somewhat different from other types of roses, loves the sun, so it is planted on the south or southwest side of the estate. Wetlands are not suitable. In this case, the roots may rot, because they grow up to 2 m deep. It is better when the place where they grow is located on a hill and is well ventilated.
Important! Never plant bushes in places where roses have already grown.
It is recommended to plant plants in the fall (September), although you can do this in the spring, but then the flowers will appear 2 weeks later. The most suitable soil is loose, permeable loam. Heavy clay is diluted with a small amount of lime. A bed 0.5-0.6 m wide is sufficient for planting roses. Holes measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m and 1 m apart from each other are dug in advance. If the soil in them is dry at the time of planting, pour 1 bucket of water into each, add 0.5 buckets of manure, humus and phosphorus-containing fertilizer. The bottom of the hole is dug up.
Climbing rose bush before planting
Before planting, the seedlings are treated - the roots are pruned, removing long shoots, pickled in a solution of low concentration potassium permanganate, the places where the buds are located are sprinkled with charcoal, then the bush is dipped in a biostimulant solution. As the latter, a mineral mixture is often used, consisting of clay, mullein and 2-3 tablets of phosphorobacterin per 10 liters of water or 1 tablet of heteroauxin. After this, the seedling is immersed in the hole. If this happens in the fall, then the root collar is covered with 12 centimeters of soil, otherwise the plant will most likely die in the winter. Next, the soil is compacted and watered, and the plant is pruned at a distance of 18 centimeters from the ground level. When planting in spring, the seedling is shortened to 11-13 cm.
Advice. If you plan to decorate a wall, then place the hole for the climbing rose at a distance of about 0.45 m from the object, because its roots can destroy the foundation.
Caring for climbing roses
Care includes a minimum of activities:
- abundant, but without fanaticism, watering - once a week and a half;
- mulching with grass, sawdust, humus, straw;
- pruning faded shoots to stimulate the appearance of new buds;
- feeding
Choose the sunniest place on the site for the rose.
Since the length of the branches increases quite quickly, you need to plan their direction in advance. As soon as they grow to 0.5 m, install vertical supports to tie them up. During the season, you have to install many of these racks, because many lateral shoots appear on each lash. Thus, a crown is formed, flowering becomes longer and more abundant, and the entire object near which the bush grows is completely covered with stems, as in the photo.
A mandatory procedure is to prepare the bush for winter. It needs good thermal insulation. Climbing roses are covered using two methods: removing them from the support and leaving the vines in place. When choosing the first method, the shoots are removed from the rack, the weak and old ones are removed so that only 10-12 pieces remain. the strongest. Next, they are tied, pressed to the soil, fixed with pegs, covered with spruce branches, and a layer of soil is poured onto the base and covered with film.
Think in advance and install a support for the climbing rose
Fertilizer and feeding
Humus added to the hole during planting will nourish the rose bush for 2 years. In the future, the plant will require fertilizers. In the spring, manure is applied to encourage the growth of young stems. In autumn, this fertilizer is contraindicated, because the regrown shoots will not have time to gain strength and will not survive the winter. The optimal composition of autumn feeding:
- sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium;
- superphosphate - double and simple;
- slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash, i.e. compositions containing calcium.
Roses need varied and regular feeding.
During the growing season, roses are fed 4-5 times. To feed plants with potassium, you can use a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 15 g of superphosphate and 16 g of potassium monophosphate. To ensure that roses receive a sufficient amount of phosphate, add 10 g of magnesium sulfate to a bucket of water. As a calcium supplement, use a solution of 1 large spoon of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water.
Advice. To enrich roses with potassium, bury banana peelings under the bush. They contain this element in large quantities.
Climbing rose propagation
The most common method of reproduction is cuttings. The rooting rate is almost 100%. It is better to harvest cuttings from vines that are still blooming or have already bloomed in June-August. This is done like this:
- cut blanks with 2-3 buds;
- the bottom is cut off under the last bud at an angle of 45 degrees, the top is straight;
- the leaves are removed from below and shortened by 1/2 from above;
- plant directly in a flowerbed or container;
Climbing rose seedlings
- cover with a plastic or glass container;
- moisturize without violating the tightness of the shelter;
- remove protection in the spring of next year.
Sometimes cuttings are treated with a growth agent - heteroauxin or any other.
More complex method - budding. It is suitable only for a few large-flowered climbing roses. The operation is carried out in July-August, but in the south it is also carried out in September. A one- or 2-year-old rosehip is chosen as a rootstock, on the root collar of which a cut is made in the shape of the letter T and a dormant bud is inserted. The area is tightly wrapped with film, and the scion itself is sprinkled with soil. When the 4th leaf appears on the shoots, they are pinched.
Diseases and pests of climbing roses
Climbing roses are often affected by a fungal disease such as powdery mildew, especially when the weather is humid and hot. As a result, the bush stops growing, the flowers fall off, and the plant withers. For prevention, plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture 2 times: the first time in the spring after removing the spruce branches, the second time when the shoots grow 20 centimeters.
Powdery rose on rose leaves
Sometimes, after removing the cover, reddish-brown spots appear on the bark. They enlarge, darken and can reach the point where the entire shoot seems to be surrounded by a ring. This disease is called koniothyrium, "burn", cancer of the cortex. It is caused by a fungus that has settled inside the tissue and progresses in winter. Diseased lashes are cut off and burned. For the purpose of prevention in winter, during the thaw, the covering material is raised for ventilation, and during autumn fertilizing the percentage of nitrogen and potassium is reduced.
These roses, like no other plants, are suitable for decorating gazebos, arches, pergolas, fences, walls and balconies. Growing them is not very difficult, so if you wish, you can create beautiful, spectacular compositions from different varieties in your dacha.
The difference between climbing roses and climbing roses: video
Varieties of climbing roses: photo
