Is it possible to plant winter garlic in early spring? When and how to plant garlic in the spring. Harvesting for storage

When to plant garlic is a very pressing question. Garlic can be planted in both spring and autumn. It all depends on the type of garlic and weather conditions. There is winter garlic (Yubileiny Gribovsky, Polet, Bryansky, Dobrynya, Bogatyr), it is planted before winter, and there is spring garlic (Degtyarsky, Gulliver, Gafuriysky), it is planted in the spring. Today you will learn: when to plant early, spring, winter garlic, garlic bulbs, as well as folk signs for determining the time of planting winter garlic.

When to plant early and spring garlic

Sometimes, some gardeners plant so-called “early” garlic. It is planted as seedlings in March in special wooden boxes 12-13 centimeters high, filled with garden soil, and when seedlings appear, they are planted in the ground. The main thing is that the earth has melted by this time.

Spring garlic is planted early, usually in April, immediately after the snow melts. Such early planting is necessary for the garlic to ripen well and be stored well.

When to plant garlic before winter

Each region has its own optimal time for planting winter garlic. In the Urals, winter garlic is sown 5-6 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. As a rule, this is the first ten days of October, but there may be adjustments taking into account the long-term weather forecast.

If you plant garlic earlier, the garlic cloves will take root, sprout and freeze.

If you plant later, the clove will not have time to take root, it may rot, and next year the growth of garlic will be weak, and you will no longer have to hope for a good garlic harvest.

Whenever possible, when planting garlic, I take into account the lunar calendar and make sure to exclude unfavorable days and folk signs.

When to plant garlic before winter - folk signs

The old people taught that garlic should be planted before winter:

- when your hands feel chilly;

- when you step barefoot on the ground it will be cold;

- when the first snow flies;

- when tulips are planted;

- when birds fly south;

- before the beginning of birch leaf fall;

You can watch an unusual way of planting winter garlic in this video.

Is it possible to plant winter garlic in the spring?

Sometimes there is a wet, cold autumn, and it is not possible to plant winter garlic in the fall. Then the question arises: is it possible to plant winter garlic in the spring? My experience shows that yes. In this case, in the conditions of the Middle Urals, a relatively large one-clove with very dense scales grows from a garlic clove. This type of garlic is ideal for cooking or for cooking, but you can plant this single clove again in the fall, and the next year it will grow into a full-fledged large head of garlic.

But there are regions where winter garlic planted in the spring will produce a decent harvest. Watch a video about an experiment with planting winter garlic conducted in the Krasnoyarsk Territory.

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This planting method can be useful for those places where garlic freezes in winter.

When to plant garlic bulbs before winter or in spring?

Garlic bulbs are “aerial bulbs of garlic” that are formed on the flowering stem from the shoots of garlic. When is the best time to plant them?

Garlic bulbs can be planted in the fall (1.5 months before the onset of cold weather) or in the spring (from April 15 to May 15).

I prefer to plant garlic bulbs in the spring, because bulbs planted in October before winter often freeze or stick out due to frozen ground.

To preserve the bulbs until spring, they must be stored correctly. I store them in the room, wrapped in newspaper and put in a fabric bag, but 1.5 months before planting (mid-March) I unpack them and put them at the bottom of the refrigerator. This preparation hardens them and turns on their “biological clock.”

Today you learned when to plant garlic. I hope these tips are useful to you.

In addition, I bring to your attention the results of my experiment on storing winter garlic. You will learn about them by reading my publication

Preface

Garlic is a plant that can cure many diseases! Even the flu can recede under its onslaught. We are sure that absolutely every owner of a country plot has a desire to plant this crop. Therefore, you should know how to plant winter and spring garlic in the spring.

Required Tools

Is it possible to plant garlic in the spring and how to do it?

When answering whether garlic is planted in the spring, one can say that this time is considered the best season for doing the work. In this case, it is necessary to begin work immediately after winter - preferably in March or mid-April. You should carefully choose a location. After all, for example, beds where onions or potatoes previously grew are not suitable. It is much better to choose beds where you previously planted cabbage, zucchini or cucumbers.

Tips from experts:

• Before you start planting, you need to water the bed with a solution of table salt: 3 tablespoons of salt per 10 liter bucket of water;
• Garlic loves water, but you shouldn’t flood the garden, because the root system can get sick if there is high humidity;
• Despite the fact that this crop is cold-resistant, wait until the temperature rises above +5 °C, otherwise the above-ground part of the plant will not form properly.

Spring garlic: can it be planted in the spring?

Take note: you shouldn’t be too slow with planting this type of “green crop,” since in our climate, if planted too late, it may not ripen before the winter cold. You also need to try to remember what crops grew in the garden before. For example, if these were legumes, pumpkin, cucumbers, cabbage, then you can start working, but if the bed was occupied by potatoes or you planted them there, there is no need to plant garlic here.

Two days before the work is completed, we cultivate the ground: using a shovel, we carry out digging, combining the work with the complete removal of weeds, leveling the soil and loosening it.

The onions themselves also require a little preparation: we remove small specimens (they can be used for “seeds”), inspect the remaining ones for damage or diseases - this kind of garlic should not be used for planting. Before planting, soak the garlic in warm liquid with the addition of nitroammophoska - the solution will help activate all processes in the “organism” of the onion.

Before planting, “break up” the bed. This is necessary in order to leave 10 cm between large bulbs, but small ones can be planted more densely. This way, when harvesting, you will not get confused and will be able to immediately sort your harvest. The bulbs should not be planted too deep - 5-7 cm is enough. In just two weeks, the first sprouts of garlic will appear above the surface of the soil.

Planting garlic in spring: winter crops

It is best to plant winter garlic in the fall, but it is not always possible to meet the deadline, and therefore we can carry out the work in the spring, the main thing is to try to do it as early as possible. The soil must be moist, at a temperature not lower than 15 °C. For the convenience of further caring for garlic, it is advisable to prepare the bed in advance - we make grooves across it, leaving about 20 cm between the rows of garlic, but up to 15 cm between the cloves themselves. The optimal number of plants per square meter will be approximately 50 pieces.

The planting depth is approximately 2.5 clove heights. This is why you also need to sort your plants by size. The sequence of planting the crop is as follows:

• First we make furrows in the garden bed;
• We fill the bottom of the trenches with ash or sand, which will reduce the risk of rotting of the cloves;
• We lay the garlic along the groove, but it is not recommended to “burrow” it into the ground, because the grown root system can stick out of the ground, which threatens the plants freezing.

By the way, planting winter garlic can also be done in the spring; the main thing is to strictly adhere to the timing of the work so that the plants have time to fully ripen. Knowing how to plant garlic in the spring and doing this work correctly, you will get a rich “green” harvest that can protect you from the most severe ARVI and flu in winter.

Literally in two weeks, when the first plant shoots appear, you can start feeding. It is best to use organic matter - humus or chicken droppings. If it’s a hot season outside, don’t forget about watering. In this case, it is best to carry out the work in the evening, and before the next watering it is advisable to loosen the soil a little so that a crust does not form on the ground. This can lead to the fact that air will not flow to the root system, which will negatively affect the development of the plant.

When growing garlic, do not forget that:

• This crop prefers fertile soil, however, a high concentration of nutrients can lead to plant death, so when adding organic matter, try to use ash;
• Garlic requires loamy soil, and high levels of acidity can lead to plant disease;
• Don't forget about white rot, a disease that causes mold to appear on garlic bulbs. To prevent this from happening, follow a number of primitive measures. These include updating planting material, disinfecting garlic before planting, and using solutions and remedies against diseases. After all, many can switch to garlic, which means that without proper control of the infection, you can lose your garden.

Understanding how to plant winter garlic in the spring, you can easily reap a good harvest without putting much effort into it.

Winter garlic

Spring garlic

• Abrek;
• Aleysky;
• Victorio;
• Elenovsky;
• Ershovsky;
• Kalininsky local;
• Moscow;
• Sochi.

Gives the arrow:

Unusual spring varieties:

For cultivation in Siberia

When to plant garlic in spring?

There are times when you need to plant winter garlic in the spring. True, such planting may not produce a high-quality harvest if it is not carefully looked after. If you know the general principles of planting garlic, then how to plant winter garlic in the spring will not raise any questions. The main thing is to carefully sort the cloves and remove all infected or spoiled ones.

When and how to plant garlic in spring

Winter garlic is often planted in the spring to produce green feathers, which are consumed fresh during the season.

Which garlic to plant in spring

Who doesn’t love such a fragrant and savory spice as chasnik? This vegetable is often harvested in our region for the preparation of various herbs. If you have a summer cottage, you can independently grow the winter season, which will grow to great proportions. Therefore, planting begins approximately a few days before the first frost, so that the plant does not freeze and produces a wonderful harvest in the coming season. How to plant a chapel before winter (video) and make it great? The evidence on this topic will be discussed in this article.

How to plant a chapel before winter?

How to plant a chapel before winter for practical reasons

The chasnik is not a flexible crop that can grow on any kind of soil, but in order to obtain a clear, healthy harvest, it is recommended to create the most favorable conditions for planting. Yaki?

• Miscenahodzhennya. You don’t love a chasnik if you sit him too quickly on one and the same place. It is important to periodically change the location of growing crops, rather than planting them after such plants as cibula, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. These vegetables are infected with fusarium, which often infects the head of the plant. If you plant it after watermelon, cabbage or legumes, you will not only save it from unpleasant diseases, but also create a friendly mind for full growth.
• Dobrivo. Do you want to bring food for the winter season? Before planting, it is not recommended to fertilize the soil with mineral or organic fertilizers; sprouts react positively to neutral, non-acidic soil, and additional fertilization often oxidizes the soil. In the dobrova pit, you can vikorize peat, which is a trace of digging from the soil.
• Sleepy light. Immediately after planting, an important step is the rooting of the crop, which will reveal a sufficient amount of ultraviolet light. It’s not good for him to plant a chapel in the shade or under a sloping tree. Try to find out the place on the rise.

How to plant a clock before winter so that there is great growth? For whom is there a bunch of secrets? First, soak the heads of the chasnik in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This protects the plant from infection and attacks by various infections. You can also use a strong dose of kitchen salt. Healthy culture, great fruits. Otherwise, it is necessary to remove the “maternal” baby, which most often inhibits growth.

Rules for planting winter flowers

It is better to hang the watch on a small distance one after another (approximately 10-15 cm). It is also important to maintain a distance of approximately 30 cm between the rows. It is important to allow the plants to grow into adulthood.

Read also: Peculiarities of planting winter and spring flowers

Before the time of planting, do not press too hard on the planting material, trying to root it in the ground. You need to make a small hole and place a clove there. Apply earth to the top.

Important! The deeds of the Fahivtsi are glad to plant the clock on the great depth. This advice is only relevant in the season when you are late with planting and there are only a few days left before frost. Deep planting protects the plant from frost and cold.

How to properly plant a chapel in autumn?

Before planting time, do not forget to lightly water the soil, if the stones are too dry.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO PLANT WINTER GARLIC IN SPRING AND HOW TO PLANT IT

Afterwards, you need to sprinkle the bed with a small amount of peat and compact it thoroughly. There is no need to water further.

Well, now you know how to plant the clock for the winter (video) and it will be great. We hope that it is our pleasure to help you grow a rich, juicy and savory winter harvest at your dacha.

Video: When you plant a clock for the winter, it will be good for you

When and how to plant garlic correctly in spring and autumn, care, harvesting and storage of garlic

It is not without reason that garlic is one of the most favorite crops grown in garden plots. Without its taste and aroma it is impossible to prepare many dishes; not a single preparation for the winter, which gardeners love to make, can do without its spiciness. In addition, garlic has unique properties that allow it to fight harmful viruses, which is why it is so popular during the cold season.

When asked whether it is possible to plant garlic in the spring, we say “Yes!” The crop is planted both in autumn and spring - in both cases you can get a good, rich harvest. But due to the fact that the autumn harvest is not stored very well, or simply dies, gardeners are often interested in how to plant garlic in the spring and many prefer the spring method of planting garlic.

Preparing garlic for planting in spring

So, having decided whether garlic can be planted in the spring, we begin to prepare for planting. Garlic planted in spring is called spring garlic. It differs from winter (that is, planted in the fall into winter, read about winter planting of garlic) not only in its shelf life (winter will last only a couple of months, while spring for more than a year), but also in the type of head - its cloves are pressed tighter. At the same time, its yield is less than that of winter crops.

The easiest way to buy spring garlic seeds is from grandmother gardeners at the market; in this case, you will grow a guaranteed local variety.

Winter garlic has large heads, with a small number of cloves, easy to store until spring/summer.

Spring garlic It has small heads, the cloves themselves are small, it can only be stored for autumn. That is, this garlic is only for summer-autumn consumption.

The best varieties of non-shooting spring garlic:

• Abrek;
• Aleysky;
• Victorio;
• Elenovsky;
• Ershovsky;
• Kalininsky local;
• Moscow;
• Sochi.

Gives the arrow:

Unusual spring varieties:

• Kledor and Flavor are spring varieties of French selection, have cream cloves, and are planted in early spring.

The heads of spring varieties are medium-sized; 15–20 cloves ripen in them, which are arranged in a spiral.

Varieties of spring garlic for the Moscow region, proven Aleysky, Moscow, Kalininsky local.

For cultivation in Siberia You can use any spring variety, since they were originally bred for cultivation in northern regions, where winter varieties die in winter.

If you choose to plant garlic in the spring, then you should prepare for this in the fall. Typically, planting material is placed in bags and buried approximately 50 centimeters into the ground. The top of the soil can be insulated with film, leaves, or compost from your own composter. This will protect the contents of the bag from severe frosts. If the amount of planting material is small, it is better to store it at home in the refrigerator. Before planting, a couple of days, garlic can be wrapped in a damp cloth to speed up the formation of roots.

When to plant garlic in spring?

Spring garlic is planted on April 20 - 25, shortly after the snow melts. These varieties do not tolerate lack of moisture.

Prepared tines should be planted at the beginning of spring; pay attention to the temperature - the soil can only be warmed up to 5 degrees.

If you plan to plant garlic in the spring in the Moscow region, then this temperature will be established around April; in warmer regions this can be done as early as the end of March. This crop is frost-resistant, so low temperatures will not interfere with growth. First, the root system will form, and when the soil warms up to 8-10 degrees, the above-ground part of the future crop will begin to develop. However, you should not delay planting, otherwise the bulbs will not have time to form before the onset of cold weather. At the same time, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of frost, which will prevent the head from developing.

There are times when you need to plant winter garlic in the spring. True, such planting may not produce a high-quality harvest if it is not carefully looked after. If you know the general principles of planting garlic, then how to plant winter garlic in the spring will not raise any questions. The main thing is to carefully sort the cloves and remove all infected or spoiled ones. Winter garlic is often planted in the spring to produce green feathers, which are consumed fresh during the season.

Choosing a place to plant garlic

When the weather permits and spring planting of garlic begins, you will need to think about the location of the bed and the quality of the soil. Chernozem, light, medium loamy soils are best suited for the plant. You should not plant garlic where potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes or onions grew last season (they are bad predecessors and neighbors, do not plant garlic next to them). Since garlic is classified as an onion, this means that it is better to move its bed to a new place every year. But zucchini or cucumbers, cabbage or legumes are the best predecessors. Choose places that are exposed to the sun or lightly shaded, as the plant needs light and warmth. Dig up the selected bed, loosen it, remove all weeds and water it quite generously with a salt solution (3 tablespoons of regular salt should be dissolved in a bucket of water). Garlic can be planted in two days - the soil will be ready.

Which garlic to plant in spring

Before planting, the material must be sorted out, very small bulbs and those infected with diseases must be removed. The teeth need to be calibrated and planted in the same row of the same size. Depending on the size of the planted material, the finished crop will also ripen, then it can be dug up systematically, as it is ready. Having prepared everything you need, you can plant garlic in the spring.

At what depth should I plant garlic?

Spring garlic is planted to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. Planting pattern: distance between rows is 20-30 cm, between cloves in a row 6-8 cm.

It is planted bottom down, about 2 centimeters deep. A larger layer of soil will not allow small sprouts to hatch. Remember how to plant garlic correctly in spring and try to keep a distance of 6-8 centimeters.

When everything is planted, feed the bed with ammonium sulfate. You can repeat this feeding again in July; this will not give pests a chance to spoil the plantings. You can also feed the soil with phosphorus and potassium at the moment when the bulbs begin to form. Garlic needs to be watered well, as the crop loves moisture. But do not let the beds flood, as high humidity can destroy the root system.

Now you know how to plant garlic in the spring. All that remains is to wait for the harvest and harvest it correctly. When the leaves turn yellow, the crop can be harvested. The heads are pulled out of the soil and left in the garden bed, allowing the leaves to dry out and the beneficial substances to return to the bulb. You can also gather garlic into bunches and hang them to dry. When the leaves have finally given up all their benefits, they will dry out and be easily removed.

Planting garlic in spring

I’ll start with the basics - with the preparation of planting material. Planting material must be properly prepared and initially stored correctly. It is precisely because of errors at the stage of storage and preparation for planting that spring garlic fails and turns out to be small; in the future, this small fruit is preserved and consolidated.

Garlic intended for planting should be stored at a temperature of +5 +8 C and a humidity of no more than 50% (optimally 30%). Storage at a lower temperature is also possible, because garlic can withstand slow freezing down to - 3C. Winter planting of garlic is, at its core, low-temperature storage of garlic in the ground.

Now a short historical excursion and thoughts about the winter and spring garlic crops that exist in our country. What I am about to write will seem strange and unusual to most, because everyone is accustomed to eating winter garlic, mostly bolting, and spring garlic, mostly non-shooting.

In pre-revolutionary Russia, only non-shooting forms of garlic were called garlic, and the Mediterranean was considered their homeland, and shooting forms were called Rocambole. As evidence, I would like to quote from the book by R.I. Schroeder “Russian vegetable garden, nursery and orchard”, which in 1883. She was awarded a prize (gold medal) by the Russian Horticulture Society for the best essay in Russian on gardening and horticulture.

Page 538:

“III Onion-garlic Allium sativum. From Southern Europe, island of Sicily. Perennial.

Garlic, as you know, has a very pungent taste and a specific, not all pleasant, smell. A small piece of this spice is enough to add flavor to a significant amount of food. The British always use it to smother lamb, the French - salad, and the Germans - sausages. Italians are big fans of garlic, and Russians also use a lot of it, as well as onions. Garlic has ribbon-like flat leaves and a complex bulb, consisting of 6-10 small bulbs, separated by membranous skin and enclosed in the same general wrapper. Propagation is always accomplished by dividing the bulbs, which are planted in the spring as separate bulbs and a bush-like group of bulbs is obtained in the fall.

This plant requires fertile, black soil and the warmest location. Planting of individual bulbs is done in the spring at a distance of 13-18 cm. Plants almost never produce seeds, but sometimes small buds (bulbs) are formed in the flower heads, which, like bulbs, can also be used for propagation...”

“...Only three modifications of garlic are still known:

1) Regular white or slightly pink garlic

2) French pink, almost the same as the previous one, a little redder

3) The new big one, Neapolitan, is hardly different from the French one..."

“...You can plant garlic in spring and autumn. Spring planting is more reliable, but with this method of cropping the bulbs are smaller than with autumn planting.

Autumn planting of garlic is good because it is done in free time from other work, and the bulbs are larger, but in snowless winters, autumn plantings of garlic often freeze if measures are not taken to protect the planted bulbs from frost.”

Conclusions that can be drawn from the above:

1. In Russia, garlic was called non-shooting forms, which in rare cases (depending on microclimatic conditions) produce shoots and bulbs. In my practice, when zoning (introducing) new varieties, it occurs all the time.

2. Non-shooting garlic was planted (planted - outdated) both in autumn and spring.

3. Well, one more thing is that in those days there were also snowless winters.

Page 540 “IV Bow-Rocambole.

How to plant winter garlic in spring?

Allium Scorodoprasum Lin. In Central and Western Europe, in Germany and France. Perennial.

16) Rocambole is similar to garlic (which it replaces), but has a less pungent taste. The plant shoots out a tall, serpentine-curved stem and is therefore called snake garlic "Schlangenknoblauch" in Germany. The stem does not produce seeds, but forms small bulbs in the flower heads, which serve for reproduction. Propagation and preservation are the same as for garlic, with the only difference being that propagation is carried out not only from the bulbs, but also from the mentioned buds; for this purpose they are kept dry. Rocambole, compared to real garlic, is rarely diluted.”

After this everything falls into place.

That is, previously all the shoot forms of garlic were called Rocambole and what R.I. Schroeder writes that it has a less pungent taste, which is true, since many varieties of bolting garlic, especially rocambole and some purple-striped ones, are mild to medium hot. In our country there is an opinion that bolting garlic is more pungent than non-shooting garlic.

In our practice, we do not divide garlic into winter and spring, it’s just that the agricultural technology for planting in autumn and spring is different. All garlics can be grown both as winter and spring varieties, with the exception of one subtype - rocambola, according to the modern classification. The main thing is the preparation of seed material. If you stored garlic even at room temperature, then a month before planting (early March) it must be placed in a cold environment from -3 to +1C, preferably in the zero chamber of the refrigerator. A day before planting, the garlic must be heated to room temperature and then soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of 50C. When the solution with garlic has cooled to room temperature, you can add some kind of growth stimulator to it, for example, potassium humate or epin. After this, soak for another 12-24 hours. If you have purchased planting material from another area, then I would advise you to necessarily pickle it in some special preparation, even Fundazol, but reduce the pickling time to 1 hour (Attention!!! Fundazol can only be used as a dressing agent for planting material and cannot be used during the growing season!)

The time for planting garlic in the spring occurs when the temperature of the ground at the planting depth exceeds 0C. For Central Russia this is usually April 10-15 (in the spring of 2013 this happened on April 20). Planting garlic in the first half of May is a mistake that arose due to the difference in the calendars (Julian and Gregorian). The same R.I. Schroeder can be read that garlic should be planted in early May, but we also celebrate the New Year according to the old style only from January 13 to 14.

Preparing the soil and planting site.

A place for planting garlic should be chosen that is illuminated throughout the day, at least 3/4 of the day. You can and should start preparing while there is still snow. Blacken the planting area or the bed prepared in the fall, i.e. Sprinkle wood ash thickly over the snow, and this area will be freed of snow first, and additionally, through this technique, we will add a portion of potassium and magnesium. Humus should be applied in the spring before planting, and not in the fall, in the amount of one bucket (10 l) per m2

The soil should be cultivated to a depth of 35-40 cm and in this case the development of the root system will occur faster.

To put it simply and point by point:

2. On April 10-12, we add compost and dig it to a depth of 35-40 cm (while digging the beds, in addition to compost, you can also add 0.5 liters of ash per sq. m.);

If it is not possible to implement pp. 1 and 2, then before planting you need to apply mineral fertilizers special for onions and garlic and dig up the bed.

Landing scheme.

It is advisable to arrange the rows from south to north. The distance between rows is 13-15 cm, between plants - 10 cm, but again I want to draw attention to the ease of processing - weeding, watering and loosening. You need to take these parameters as a starting point when choosing a planting scheme, that is, plant them in such a way that it is convenient for further processing.

The planting depth in spring is shallow; the tip of the clove should be recessed by 2-3 cm.

If you are planting a new variety of garlic from another area, then in the first year of planting it is advisable to place arches and cover them with non-woven covering material, which will need to be removed after May 15, and at high daytime temperatures it should be opened for ventilation.

In the following articles I will talk about the agricultural technology of garlic during the growing season and protection from diseases and pests.

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Sometimes in gardening practice it happens that winter garlic has to be planted in the spring. The reasons for this may be different: for example, in the fall for some reason you did not have garlic to plant, or you were unable to get to the site in a timely manner. Of course, spring planting of winter garlic is a risky business. If it has not undergone vernalization, and the summer turns out to be hot, and the ridge is very well filled with organic matter, there is no watering, and there is no rain, then in this case the bulbs may not set.

Once every seven years I encounter such a problem. It is with this frequency that our garden is flooded with water. All winter, water comes from the mountain and floods the area so that in the spring, at the beginning of April, high boots are not enough to get to the porch of the house. Water floods everything - the house, the barn, the greenhouse, all the ridges, the roads around the site. Then it gradually moves to neighboring, lower places. After such a “flood” not a single bulb of garlic, tulips, lilies, crocuses, hazel grouse, peony rhizomes and other perennial plants remains. We have already experienced three such floods. After the first “flood”, I began using agricultural technology to achieve such a situation that my stock of winter garlic would be stored until spring and would not dry out. Otherwise, in the spring you will have to look for bulbs to plant. But what other garlic will come across in such a situation... Maybe it’s sick, or maybe it’s a southern variety. At the same time, I did not strive to ensure that the garlic preserved until spring was necessarily large; even if it was medium in size, the main thing was that it ripened.

So last spring, our site was again under water. Not a single garlic, not a single tulip, not a single lily survived. The garlic, which was left for food, was preserved in the winter, and there was enough for planting. As soon as I was able to walk along the boards to the beds, I immediately dug them up with a pitchfork, picked out all the rot, sprinkled the soil with ash and planted the garlic again on April 29. The soil on top was mulched with humus.

Everyone has winter garlic It has already sprouted, but I just planted mine. When it came up, I fed the plantings with azofoska and potassium magnesia. There were rains in May-June, so after each of them I tried to loosen the soil in the beds deeper. At the beginning of June, I fed the garlic with slurry. The manure was fresh, almost without litter. And this turned out to be my mistake, since I forgot that in the year of the Sun there will definitely be a lot of sun. The garlic began to grow so much that I was afraid that I would be left without bulbs, there would only be powerful stems, and it would not have time to ripen, especially since on April 29, at the time of planting, the Moon was in Scorpio, and there was also a full moon. As you know, this is a non-planting time for garlic. But I needed to have time to plant the garlic in the cold, damp soil. So there was no time for that. After all, S.V. Kurashvili correctly wrote in her Lunar calendar for 2010 that at this time the day feeds the year. Nearby, the gardeners’ garlic beds had already thrown out their arrows, but mine had no arrows, which actually shouldn’t be there yet. After all, my garlic was planted in the spring, and its development was a month behind. Then the neighbors already began to dig up their winter garlic, and mine had just begun to bolt. For the ripening of the bulbs, an optimal temperature of +20...23°C is required, I began to worry: will there be such weather at the end of August - beginning of September for the bulbs to ripen, and the time for autumn planting was already approaching, but it was still with arrows.

However, the bulbs of my spring-planted winter garlic turned out to be very large, and I had to tinker with them to dry them. I dried it somehow, and for planting I took again the bulblets, single-prongs, and four-prongs that had ripened from the single-prongs. Or rather, a four-pronged clove did not turn out from a single-pronged clove; the bulbs immediately formed into six large cloves. This is how the heat, rain, and organic matter affected it. In January of this year, I checked the garlic, and now there is a lot of it - is it drying out? I found three onions with one clove each dried out. I looked at them through a magnifying glass - the tick was to blame. The garlic is already dry and shiny, which means that in the summer you should definitely pay attention to the plants. I leave smaller onions for winter storage and for eating; in the fall I use the largest ones for various preparations: for pickling mushrooms in a bucket - I put a lot of garlic in there, and then in the winter we eat it salted. I use a lot of it for adjika, for various salads, and I serve snacks throughout the winter. And without garlic here, just like without onions, there’s nowhere.

Here is another example from my practice. In the spring of 2010, when I was planting winter garlic, I put a few bulbs aside; they seemed soft to me. When I peeled one onion, I didn’t find any disease, only the tops of the cloves were colored with purple stripes. I cut it crosswise and found a green sprout. Apparently, it was a southern variety, and it was already ready to germinate. I have long wanted to try planting garlic “naked”, without scales. I removed all the scales from the cloves and planted them separately from the bed of garlic. The result was normal bulbs, but they were late in shooting. I didn’t let the arrows grow, I broke them off ahead of schedule. Who can use this method? I think for those who do not renew garlic through bulbs from year to year, but when planting “bare” cloves, spots are visible - the beginnings of the disease.

After reading this article, gardeners may think that everything is dying under water, or rather, under ice. This is wrong. Bulbous plants suffer. Two old climbing roses (rooted) bloom as if nothing had happened; the grapes near the house bear fruit, the evergreen, creeping rhododendron (a large bush) is completely covered with water, ice, and then blooms. Black currants, raspberries and honeysuckle are not affected. Lilacs are dying under the ice, Kuril tea and phlox are slightly damaged. But the phloxes later recovered.

Louise Klimtseva, head of the gardening club "Louise"

Garlic, a member of the popular allium family, has long been a favorite crop in many countries around the world. Its sharp, specific taste and aroma are a worthy addition to many dishes. Pythagoras once called garlic the king of spices. Since then, little has changed, but today on almost every summer cottage you can see a bed where this crop grows.

You can plant garlic in both autumn and spring. The harvest obtained from autumn planting is richer, but such garlic does not last long. That is why gardeners prefer to plant spring garlic in the spring. Winter garlic, which ripens in the spring, differs from spring garlic in the structure of its head. The first one has a dense shaft in the center, while the spring one has the cloves in the head pressed tightly against each other. Planting winter garlic in the spring will give you a faster harvest, but, as already mentioned, the heads will not be stored for long. If we take into account the fact that the average family does not need so much garlic for the winter, then it is more rational to grow spring garlic. We will talk about the features of its cultivation.

Landing rules

Let us immediately note that garlic propagation occurs vegetatively. The new generation of culture requires the same environment as those in which their predecessors grew up. If garlic for planting is brought from regions with other climatic conditions, then there is no hope for a good harvest. And it will grow poorly, and diseases and pests will attack more often. Even the death of culture is not excluded. If you are planning to plant garlic in the spring, stock up on local planting material.

Many gardeners are interested in the question of how to plant garlic in the spring. You need to take care of this in the fall. The prepared planting material is not frost-resistant, but it tolerates moderate cold well. You can store it in white bags buried in the ground to a depth of about 50 centimeters. You can insulate it with a layer of foliage and film. Don’t worry, this “coat” will protect the garlic from frost. If your garden bed is small, then store the planting material in the refrigerator, and when the time comes to plant garlic in the spring, treat it with a saline solution (6 tablespoons of salt per bucket of water), placing it in a container for half an hour.

As for whether it is possible to plant garlic in the spring, everything is very clear. What should the soil be like on the site? Firstly, it’s warmed up, so the optimal time is mid-April. As for the type of soil, spring garlic grows best on medium to light loamy soil with an acidity level of 6.5 to 7.0 pH. Please note that potatoes and onions are the worst predecessors, and cabbage, zucchini and cucumbers are.

Planting garlic in spring

So, first, dig up the bed, loosen the soil, and water it generously with saline solution (you can use the one in which you soaked the garlic). Garlic cloves are planted on the prepared bed with their bottoms down, deepening them by 1-2 centimeters. In this case, the distance between them should not be less than 8 centimeters. When seedlings appear, it is recommended to fertilize with ammonium sulfate. This will protect your crop from pests. In mid-summer, repeat fertilizing to consolidate the results. Starting in July, do not water the bed so that the heads have time to dry out before harvesting.

Optimal conditions

This culture is cold-resistant. Already at zero temperature, the roots begin to actively grow. As for the growth of the ground part, active growth is observed at 8-12 degrees Celsius. That is why spring planting is the best solution. At first, while the earth has not yet warmed up well, all the plant’s forces go to the growth of the head, and with warming, the growth of the ground part begins. In this case, abundant watering is important. If it is absent at first, the growth of the root system may slow down.

Regardless of whether garlic is planted in the spring or not, following the rules of planting and care will guarantee a good harvest.

Garlic is a plant that can cure many diseases! Even the flu can recede under its onslaught. We are sure that absolutely every owner of a country plot has a desire to plant this crop. Therefore, you should know how to plant winter and spring garlic in the spring.

1 Is it possible to plant garlic in the spring and how to do it?

When answering whether garlic is planted in the spring, one can say that this time is considered the best season for doing the work. In this case, it is necessary to begin work immediately after winter - preferably in March or mid-April. You should carefully choose a location. After all, for example, beds where onions or potatoes previously grew are not suitable. It is much better to choose beds where you previously planted cabbage, zucchini or cucumbers.

Tips from experts:

• Before you start planting, you need to water the bed with a solution of table salt: 3 tablespoons of salt per 10 liter bucket of water;
• Garlic loves water, but you shouldn’t flood the garden, because the root system can get sick if there is high humidity;
• Despite the fact that this crop is cold-resistant, wait until the temperature rises above +5 °C, otherwise the above-ground part of the plant will not form properly.

2 Spring garlic: can it be planted in the spring?

Take note: you shouldn’t be too slow with planting this type of “green crop,” since in our climate, if planted too late, it may not ripen before the winter cold. You also need to try to remember what crops grew in the garden before. For example, if these were legumes, pumpkins, cucumbers, cabbage, then you can start working, but if the bed was occupied by potatoes or you planted them there, there is no need to plant garlic here.

Two days before the work is completed, we cultivate the ground: using a shovel, we carry out digging, combining the work with the complete removal of weeds, leveling the soil and loosening it.

The onions themselves also require a little preparation: we remove small specimens (they can be used for “seeds”), inspect the remaining ones for damage or diseases - this kind of garlic should not be used for planting. Before planting, soak the garlic in warm liquid with the addition of nitroammophoska - the solution will help activate all processes in the “organism” of the onion.

Before planting, “break up” the bed. This is necessary in order to leave 10 cm between large bulbs, but small ones can be planted more densely. This way, when harvesting, you will not get confused and will be able to immediately sort your harvest. The bulbs should not be planted too deep - 5-7 cm is enough. In just two weeks, the first sprouts of garlic will appear above the surface of the soil.

3 Planting garlic in spring: winter crops

It is best to plant winter garlic in the fall, but it is not always possible to meet the deadline, and therefore we can carry out the work in the spring, the main thing is to try to do it as early as possible. The soil must be moist, at a temperature not lower than 15 °C. For the convenience of further caring for garlic, it is advisable to prepare the bed in advance - we make grooves across it, leaving about 20 cm between the rows of garlic, but up to 15 cm between the cloves themselves. The optimal number of plants per square meter will be approximately 50 pieces.

The planting depth is approximately 2.5 clove heights. This is why you also need to sort your plants by size. The sequence of planting the crop is as follows:

• First we make furrows in the garden bed;
• We fill the bottom of the trenches with ash or sand, which will reduce the risk of rotting of the cloves;
• We lay the garlic along the groove, but it is not recommended to “burrow” it into the ground, because the grown root system can stick out of the ground, which threatens the plants freezing.

By the way, planting winter garlic can also be done in the spring; the main thing is to strictly adhere to the timing of the work so that the plants have time to fully ripen. Knowing how to plant garlic in the spring and doing this work correctly, you will get a rich “green” harvest that can protect you from the most severe ARVI and flu in winter.

Literally in two weeks, when the first plant shoots appear, you can start feeding. It is best to use organic matter - humus or chicken droppings. If it’s a hot season outside, don’t forget about watering. In this case, it is best to carry out the work in the evening, and before the next watering it is advisable to loosen the soil a little so that a crust does not form on the ground. This can lead to the fact that air will not flow to the root system, which will negatively affect the development of the plant.

When growing garlic, do not forget that:

• This crop prefers fertile soil, however, a high concentration of nutrients can lead to plant death, so when adding organic matter, try to use ash;
• Garlic requires loamy soil, and high levels of acidity can lead to plant disease;
• Don't forget about white rot, a disease that causes mold to appear on garlic bulbs. To prevent this from happening, follow a number of primitive measures. These include updating planting material, disinfecting garlic before planting, and using solutions and remedies against diseases. After all, many can switch to garlic, which means that without proper control of the infection, you can lose your garden.

By understanding how to plant in the spring, you can easily reap a good harvest without putting much effort into it.

Planting and caring for garlic in open ground

Garlic is not just a hot spice, but also a means of preventing and treating many diseases. Therefore, almost all summer residents and vegetable growers plant this crop in their gardens. Growing garlic outdoors usually does not pose any particular difficulties. However, in order to obtain a high and long-lasting harvest, it is necessary to follow a number of rules and agrotechnical techniques for cultivating this useful crop.

About garlic

Garlic is a perennial bulbous plant with a ground herbaceous stem and an underground part - a complex bulb consisting of several teeth. The taste of the pulp is pungent, bitter and very pungent. The taste, as well as the characteristic smell, are due to the presence of thioesters in the plant - organic compounds that combine the properties of esters and alcohols. It is these substances that give the plant a pronounced antiseptic effect.

Garlic roots are fibrous, located at the bottom of the bulb. The bulb itself consists of 4–30 segments (teeth), covered with dense scales. The leaves of the plant are narrow (1–2 cm wide), long (30–100 cm), sprout from one another, forming a persistent stem, which softens when ripe.

Peduncles are umbrella-shaped arrows with a complex inflorescence at the top, from which a seed capsule with multiple bulbs - seed material - is then formed. The main nutritional value of the plant is concentrated in the cloves, but in young garlic the stems and even the arrows with peduncles are also edible.

History tells that the cultivation of garlic took place in the mountainous regions of Central Asia, which is considered the birthplace of the plant. Research has confirmed that garlic was developed from long-pointed onions growing wild at the bottom of mountain gorges.

To date, many varieties have been bred, but up to 30 varieties of domestic and foreign selection are cultivated for economic needs.

Varieties

Garlic is divided into two types:

• Winter (winter). It is planted in the fall and harvested in the summer of next year. It easily tolerates even severe frosts, has high yields, but does not have a long shelf life.
• Spring (summer). Planting is carried out in the spring. Its heads are not as large as those of winter, but it can be stored until the next harvest.

Winter varieties are quite unpretentious, and almost any of them can be grown in open ground. However, most often it is recommended to plant the following varieties:

• Losevsky is a mid-season variety, included in the State Register as a crop of agricultural importance, characterized by high frost resistance, large heads (up to 75 g), containing 5-6 cloves, stored for up to 6 months;
• Gribovsky is an early ripening variety, prone to bolting, medium-sized heads with 7–11 teeth, highly resistant to diseases and weather conditions;
• Komsomolets is a mid-season bolting variety, the heads are dense, contain 6–12 cloves, covered with pinkish scales, resistant to cold;
• Doctor is a mid-season, non-shooting variety, the heads are dense, contain up to 16 cloves, can be stored for a long time, and are easily transported;
• Jubilee is a variety of medium ripening period, predisposed to the formation of arrows, characterized by high yield and resistance to disease, the heads are large, consisting of 10–12 cloves.

Among the spring varieties, the most common are:

• Gulliver is a mid-season variety with massive heads (90–120 g), slightly flat in shape, containing 3–5 large teeth, covered with gray scales, the flesh is white, very sharp, can be stored for more than 8 months;
• Victorio is a moderately spicy mid-season variety, included in the State Register as a crop grown in vegetable gardens, medium-sized bulbs (up to 40 g), containing 10–13 cloves, stored for up to 8 months;
• Elenovsky is a recently bred, but already very popular variety, the bulbs are small (25–40 g), consist of 7–10 teeth, are highly resistant to frost and disease, can be stored for up to 2 years, both spring and winter planting are possible ;
• Sichinsky is an early ripening (80–92 days) variety, the weight of the heads is 40–45 g, the teeth are white, dense, slightly sharp, the plants are resistant to cold and disease, the shelf life of the heads is 1.5 years.

Sowing technology

The agricultural technology of winter and spring garlic differs only in the timing of planting, but otherwise the growing process and care are almost the same.

When to plant

Planting of summer (spring) varieties is carried out very early - as soon as the snow melts. As a rule, this moment occurs in early April. Garlic is quite frost-resistant and can grow normally in cold soil.

During repeated observations, it was noted that the roots of the plant are able to germinate as soon as the soil warms up to 2–3 °C, and the shoots begin to grow at a temperature of 5–6 °C, while in the summer heat the vegetative process stops.

Planting crops for the winter is carried out no earlier than the soil temperature drops to 8–10 °C. This usually occurs between the end of September and mid-October. Planting during this period is considered optimal, since the plants have time to form a root system before frost, but the vegetative process does not have time to begin.

Soil and seed preparation

The area for garlic should be flat and open to the sun. It is imperative to follow the order of crop rotation - it is not recommended to plant garlic in the same bed for more than 2 years in a row. It is also important to consider who the predecessor of the crop was - it is easiest to grow garlic in a plot where cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage, and any beans grew.

The soil for sowing should be sufficiently fertile, with neutral acidity (in extreme cases, slightly alkaline), with good drainage properties.

If the soil in the garden is slightly acidic, the area needs to be limed, and if the soil is heavy, mix it with sand or peat.

For both winter and spring varieties, the soil is prepared in the fall. In this case, the site is dug up to a depth of at least 30 cm, and the soil is filled with organic fertilizers along with ready-made mixtures. For example, for every 1 m? you can add 1 bucket of humus, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salts.

It is interesting to know that before sowing the tines, some gardeners treat (water) the soil with a saline solution in the proportion of 1 cup of salt to 1 bucket of warm water. The salt must be completely dissolved in water, and when the solution has cooled, use it to water the garden beds. They note that such disinfection helps get rid of pests that live in the soil and facilitates further plant care.

Preparing the soil is half the battle. It is equally important to properly prepare the seeds intended for sowing. Basically, the process of preparing garlic for sowing involves stratification. The procedure involves keeping the teeth in a cold and damp environment for 2-4 weeks. During this time, the seeds will begin embryonic sleep, after which, once in warm soil, they will begin to grow intensively.

At the end of stratification, the teeth are sorted by size, selecting the largest, smoothest and healthiest. Then the selected material is disinfected in an ash solution: 200 g of ash/1 liter of water is boiled for half an hour, then cooled. The cloves are kept in this solution for two hours, after which they are wrapped in a damp cloth and germinated in room conditions. Summer varieties need such careful preparation; winter varieties do not need stratification or germination.

Landing

This process occurs in the same way for both types of garlic, with the only difference being that winter varieties are planted immediately after preparing the bed, and for spring varieties, the area must be loosened again two weeks before sowing and, if necessary, watered.

Next, longitudinal furrows of arbitrary length are made in the soil, at the bottom of which a 2-3 cm layer of ash or sand is poured - this is necessary in order to prevent contact of the seeds with the soil, and thereby protect them from rotting. The tines are buried bottom down in this soil mixture.

The distance between the teeth depends on their size. The cloves of winter garlic are larger, so they are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, the cloves of summer varieties are smaller - for them, a distance of 7-10 cm will be optimal. After planting is done, the cloves are covered with earth and compacted a little. To make caring for winter garlic easier, the beds are mulched with sawdust or peat.

Video “Planting garlic in a garden bed in spring”

This video is about planting spring garlic. You will learn little secrets for successful planting and a rich harvest.

Care

Further care of the crop consists of the following activities:

• Watering. The plant is watered as needed. In extreme heat, when the soil dries out, watering should be plentiful - 10 l/1 m². There is no need to water the beds during rains. Also, watering should be stopped 2-3 weeks before harvest.
• Loosening the soil. Caring for summer varieties involves regular weeding and weed removal. Winter garlic is usually mulched, so there is no need for loosening.
• Feeding. During the spring-summer period, plants are fed 3-4 times: in the middle of the growing season, when the height of the stems reaches 15 cm, with organic matter (mullein), at the stage of formation of heads - with nitrophoska, a couple of weeks before harvesting - with superphosphate.
• Breaking off arrows (relevant for winter varieties). Such care is necessary for the growth of large heads.

Despite the fact that most varieties of garlic are quite resistant to diseases and pests, plants are often attacked by fungi, bacteria or insects, so caring for the crop also involves fighting them.

Pest and disease control

The following diseases are dangerous for plants:

• powdery mildew - the stems turn yellow and become covered with brown spots;
• bacteriosis – yellow-brown ulcers form on the teeth;
• white rot - leaves begin to turn yellow at the tips and then gradually die off;
• rust - yellow dry spots on the leaves.

Garlic can be affected by diseases not only in the garden, but also during storage:

• neck rot – rotting of the neck of the head;
• fusarium - a white coating on the bottom of the head, causing a putrefactive process.

Care and control of these problems involve the use of insecticides and other similar drugs. But you need to understand that garlic, while in the ground, absorbs all this chemistry, which can subsequently affect the health of the crop. Therefore, the fight against diseases consists, first of all, in preventive measures: observing crop rotation, treating the storage with bleach, and sufficiently warming the garlic heads.

As for pests, garlic is most often eaten by mites, onion moths, caterpillars, mole crickets, and centipedes. You can fight these living creatures using organic solutions: ash, whey and other folk remedies. In this case, care consists of spraying the beds regularly once a week.

Cleaning and storage

For successful storage, it is important not only to grow garlic correctly, but also to harvest it in a timely manner. Winter varieties are dug up in mid-July - early August, summer varieties 2-3 weeks later - at the end of August.

Use a garden fork or small shovel to dig up the bulbs. You need to start harvesting in the morning in dry and warm weather, so that the heads can dry out in the garden during the day. At the end of the day, the harvest must be taken under a canopy or into a dry room for further ripening.

Garlic is stored in a cool, dry place at a humidity of 60–80%. It has been noticed that the heads remain suspended longer. To do this, they are collected in bunches, braided, and placed in nets.

Is it possible to plant garlic in the spring, planting spring garlic

You can also store the heads in cardboard boxes, but it is more correct to store them in wicker baskets, as they provide good ventilation. Depending on the storage method, the stems can be left or cut to a length of 5–10 cm.

Caring for garlic in storage involves promptly selecting spoiled or shriveled bulbs.

Video “Super idea for planting garlic”

This video demonstrates sowing winter garlic in the fall. You will learn planting know-how and also hear many useful tips.

Sometimes in gardening practice it happens that winter garlic has to be planted in the spring. The reasons for this may be different: for example, in the fall for some reason you did not have garlic to plant, or you were unable to get to the site in a timely manner. Of course, spring planting of winter garlic is a risky business. If it has not undergone vernalization, and the summer turns out to be hot, and the ridge is very well filled with organic matter, there is no watering, and there is no rain, then in this case the bulbs may not set.

Once every seven years I encounter such a problem. It is with this frequency that our garden is flooded with water. All winter, water comes from the mountain and floods the area so that in the spring, at the beginning of April, high boots are not enough to get to the porch of the house. Water floods everything - the house, the barn, the greenhouse, all the ridges, the roads around the site. Then it gradually moves to neighboring, lower places. After such a “flood” not a single bulb of garlic, tulips, lilies, crocuses, hazel grouse, peony rhizomes and other perennial plants remains. We have already experienced three such floods. After the first “flood”, I began using agricultural technology to achieve such a situation that my stock of winter garlic would be stored until spring and would not dry out. Otherwise, in the spring you will have to look for bulbs to plant. But what other garlic will come across in such a situation... Maybe it’s sick, or maybe it’s a southern variety. At the same time, I did not strive to ensure that the garlic preserved until spring was necessarily large; even if it was medium in size, the main thing was that it ripened.

So last spring, our site was again under water. Not a single garlic, not a single tulip, not a single lily survived. The garlic, which was left for food, was preserved in the winter, and there was enough for planting. As soon as I was able to walk along the boards to the beds, I immediately dug them up with a pitchfork, picked out all the rot, sprinkled the soil with ash and planted the garlic again on April 29. The soil on top was mulched with humus.

Everyone has winter garlic It has already sprouted, but I just planted mine. When it came up, I fed the plantings with azofoska and potassium magnesia. There were rains in May-June, so after each of them I tried to loosen the soil in the beds deeper. At the beginning of June, I fed the garlic with slurry. The manure was fresh, almost without litter. And this turned out to be my mistake, since I forgot that in the year of the Sun there will definitely be a lot of sun. The garlic began to grow so much that I was afraid that I would be left without bulbs, there would only be powerful stems, and it would not have time to ripen, especially since on April 29, at the time of planting, the Moon was in Scorpio, and there was also a full moon. As you know, this is a non-planting time for garlic. But I needed to have time to plant the garlic in the cold, damp soil. So there was no time for the Lunar calendar. After all, S.V. Kurashvili correctly wrote in her Lunar calendar for 2010 that at this time the day feeds the year. Nearby, the gardeners’ garlic beds had already thrown out their arrows, but mine had no arrows, which actually shouldn’t be there yet. After all, my garlic was planted in the spring, and its development was a month behind. Then the neighbors already began to dig up their winter garlic, and mine had just begun to bolt. For the ripening of the bulbs, an optimal temperature of +20...23°C is required, I began to worry: will there be such weather at the end of August - beginning of September for the bulbs to ripen, and the time for autumn planting was already approaching, but it was still with arrows.

However, the bulbs of my spring-planted winter garlic turned out to be very large, and I had to tinker with them to dry them. I dried it somehow, and for planting I took again the bulblets, single-prongs, and four-prongs that had ripened from the single-prongs. Or rather, a four-pronged clove did not turn out from a single-pronged clove; the bulbs immediately formed into six large cloves. This is how the heat, rain, and organic matter affected it. In January of this year, I checked the garlic, and now there is a lot of it - is it drying out? I found three onions with one clove each dried out. I looked at them through a magnifying glass - the tick was to blame. The garlic is already dry and shiny, which means that in the summer you should definitely pay attention to the plants. I leave smaller onions for winter storage and for eating; in the fall I use the largest ones for various preparations: for pickling mushrooms in a bucket - I put a lot of garlic in there, and then in the winter we eat it salted. I use a lot of it for adjika, for various salads, and I serve snacks throughout the winter. And without garlic here, just like without onions, there’s nowhere.

Here is another example from my practice. In the spring of 2010, when I was planting winter garlic, I put a few bulbs aside; they seemed soft to me. When I peeled one onion, I didn’t find any disease, only the tops of the cloves were colored with purple stripes. I cut it crosswise and found a green sprout. Apparently, it was a southern variety, and it was already ready to germinate. I have long wanted to try planting garlic “naked”, without scales. I removed all the scales from the cloves and planted them separately from the bed of garlic. The result was normal bulbs, but they were late in shooting. I didn’t let the arrows grow, I broke them off ahead of schedule. Who can use this method? I think for those who do not renew garlic through bulbs from year to year, but when planting “bare” cloves, spots are visible - the beginnings of the disease.

After reading this article, gardeners may think that everything is dying under water, or rather, under ice. This is wrong. Bulbous plants suffer. Two old climbing roses (rooted) bloom as if nothing had happened; the grapes near the house bear fruit, the evergreen, creeping rhododendron (a large bush) is completely covered with water, ice, and then blooms. Black currants, raspberries and honeysuckle are not affected. Lilacs are dying under the ice, Kuril tea and phlox are slightly damaged. But the phloxes later recovered.

Louise Klimtseva,
head of the gardening club "Louise"

Garlic is not just a hot spice, but also a means of preventing and treating many diseases. Therefore, almost all summer residents and vegetable growers plant this crop in their gardens. Growing garlic outdoors usually does not pose any particular difficulties. However, in order to obtain a high and long-lasting harvest, it is necessary to follow a number of rules and agrotechnical techniques for cultivating this useful crop. You probably know firsthand about the existence of 2 types of garlic - spring and winter, it is thanks to them that we can count on a double harvest per year. In our article we will talk about spring garlic, which is planted in open ground in the spring.

When to plant garlic in spring

Spring garlic is planted on April 20 - 25, shortly after the snow melts. These varieties do not tolerate lack of moisture. Prepared tines should be planted at the beginning of spring; pay attention to the temperature - the soil can only be warmed up to 5 degrees.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting garlic

Planting garlic in the spring is practiced by many gardeners. The main advantage of this method is the ability to obtain a harvest with a long shelf life. The vegetable can be stored and eaten throughout the winter.

In addition, if you plant garlic in the spring months, the seedlings will be friendly. This is due to the fact that the soil has already warmed up sufficiently, and the risk of frost is minimal. Planting garlic in the spring is an ideal option for those who did not have time to do so in the fall due to rainy weather or the early onset of cold weather.
Garlic planted in the spring months also has disadvantages. Most often, summer residents call the following:

• reduced yield;
• lack of pronounced taste;
• long ripening.

Varieties of spring garlic

The varietal diversity of garlic is quite large, since the varieties are divided into two groups, differing in the method of cultivation and planting time:

1. Winter varieties are characterized by larger heads and earlier ripening. Basically, winter garlic is grown in open ground for food consumption and culinary use, since it is poorly stored. Shooting varieties ripen faster than non-shooting varieties, but require additional labor to break out the arrows. transportable.
2. Spring varieties of garlic do not shoot arrows. The teeth of the head are formed in several rows, with the outer ones always being larger and recommended for further planting. Spring garlic, which is planted and cared for in open ground, differs from winter garlic, has smaller bulbs in comparison, but it is stored much longer (until a new harvest).

The most popular varieties of spring garlic:

• Moscow is a large-fruited variety with white heads.
• Gulliver - characterized by dense, flattened white heads and a shelf life of up to 8 months.
• Victorio is highly resistant to disease. The cloves are yellowish in color. The heads are round and medium in size.

Spring garlic planting scheme

For the development and good nutrition of garlic, planting density must be observed. The distance between the cloves should be about 8 cm, and up to 30 cm should be left between the rows. The planting depth should be no deeper than 2 cm from the top of the clove. Planting too deep will slow down the development of garlic. Fresh plantings are mulched with straw or peat.

Important! Only large cloves are used for planting. It is not possible to get a good large onion from small cloves. To obtain juicy greens, smaller cloves are planted separately.

Watering spring garlic

Spring varieties of garlic need good watering until mid-July, when the greenery is growing. Insufficient watering is indicated by yellowed tips of the plant. After the sixth leaf has formed, watering is reduced, and by mid-August it is completely stopped. Excess water delays the formation of the bulb, reduces the amount of nutrients and has a bad effect on storage.

Loosening the soil for a good harvest of spring garlic

Caring for summer varieties involves regular weeding and weed removal. This is usually done the next day after watering. Since the growing season of spring garlic is short, its bulbs often do not have time to ripen even when planted early. To speed up their ripening in mid- or late August, the bulbs are slightly pulled out of the soil or some of the roots are trimmed. This disrupts the viability of some roots, plant growth slows down, and the plant spends all its energy on ripening the bulb. An alternative method is to tie the leaves of each bulb into a knot. They will stop growing and the nutritious juices will go into the bulb.

Diseases of spring garlic

The diseases and pests of garlic and onions are almost the same. Of the diseases, the most dangerous are white, neck and gray rot, helminthosporium, fusarium, smut, jaundice, downy mildew (or downy mildew), mosaic, rust and tracheomycosis.

Of the insects that most often cause trouble for garlic, the onion secretive proboscis, tobacco thrips, stem nematode, caterpillars of winter, cabbage, garden and gamma cutworms, sprout and onion flies, mole crickets, onion moths and centipedes.

We could list disease and insect control products that will help you deal with almost all of garlic's enemies, but before you treat an area with an insecticide or fungicide, remember that the head of garlic absorbs both nutrients and poisons that you will later eat. Isn’t it better to try to avoid a situation in which you have to risk either the crop harvest or your own health? The key to a rich harvest of high-quality garlic is compliance with crop rotation and agrotechnical requirements of the crop: do not plant garlic in the same bed until 4-5 years have passed; Treat the storage area two months before planting garlic with a solution of 400 g of bleach in 10 liters of water and take the pre-sowing treatment of cloves and bulbs seriously. The health of the seed, in addition to the processing methods we have already described, can be ensured by heating the cloves at a temperature of 40-42 ºC for 10 hours.

Harvesting spring garlic

Lodging of leaves, their yellowing and drying out of the lower ones is a signal to harvest spring garlic.

Garlic is harvested until mid-September in dry weather. For the first hour, the plants lie in the garden bed; further drying takes place under a canopy at a dry and warm temperature, or in the attic. At this time, the heads are ripening. Bulbs do not last long in the hot sun; sunburned bulbs may not store well.

Plants are laid out in a thin layer on a horizontal surface or on nets, or tied into small bunches and hung to dry. It is very important to protect the heads from mechanical damage, otherwise dents and scratches will serve as a gateway for microorganisms, which will shorten the shelf life. Garlic braided into braids is best stored in a room on the wall. You can use linen or paper bags, cardboard boxes with holes for air access.