The genus contains 14-18 species of evergreen shrubs and woody vines, common in South America. Bougainvillea is used in indoor floriculture mainly for vertical gardening and as hanging plants in hanging flowerpots. What makes plants decorative is not the flowers themselves (they are small and inconspicuous), but large, brightly colored bracts. Varieties with variegated leaves have also been bred. The genus belongs to the Nyctaginaceae family.

Domesticated bougainvillea is a charming creature that can turn the heads of even those who have never been involved in floriculture with its French charm.

Types and varieties of bougainvillea
Of the dozen known shrubby and climbing species of bougainvillea, two types of vines are most often cultivated - naked bougainvillea (Bougainvillea glabra) and wonderful bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), as well as their numerous varieties and joint hybrids.
Particularly good are hybrid varieties of naked (or weakly thorny) bougainvillea with dozens of double bracts, mostly purple. In their mass, green foliage is almost completely lost. These lush vines, growing several meters in height and more than two dozen meters in length, are found everywhere in South America: in parks and near residential buildings.

As a miniature garden form, the Mini Thai variety of bougainvillea has proven itself well, resulting from crossing naked bougainvillea and Peruvian bougainvillea (Bougainvillea peruviana). The plant remains bushy, the bracts are light pink (there are also hybrids with orange bracts).

Bougainvillea naked

A climbing or climbing, woody, abundantly branching vine up to 8 m long. Leaves up to 15 cm long, alternate, oval, pointed, tapering towards the base. The flowers are small, yellow-green, solitary or collected in an axillary or apical few-flowered inflorescence, surrounded by two or three large (up to 3 cm in diameter) ovoid pointed red or purple bracts. Varieties with different (white, pink, orange, lemon yellow, red, apricot, lilac) colors of bracts have been bred. Origin - Brazil.

Bougainvillea is wonderful

Yellow bougainvillea

Bougainvillea bracts can have a variety of shapes (round, heart-shaped, arrow-shaped, triangular) and edges (scalloped, wavy, serrated, etc.).

Due to the fact that bougainvillea has long flexible young shoots that become lignified with age, it is easy to form. Depending on wishes and possibilities, it is grown in the form of a standard tree, vine, or bush. With the help of supports, the plant can be given various shapes: pyramids, spheres, wreaths, etc.

In a greenhouse or winter garden, bougainvillea is most often planted in a large tub or directly in the soil of the greenhouse near the southern wall, grown as a vine or a large spreading bush. In this case, it grows very luxuriantly, becoming more beautiful year after year. In summer, such specimens turn into an enchanting waterfall of “flowers” ​​that completely hides the leaves and shoots.

Trees “created” from several varieties of bougainvillea of ​​different colors, grafted onto one trunk, look very impressive. The same effect can be achieved without grafting skills - just plant several plants of different varieties in one container. At first, the young stems are not cut, but, providing support, they are intertwined as they grow, forming a kind of “common trunk.”

Care: Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea)

Bougainvillea Location: Bougainvillea
Bunganvillea prefers a sunny location at any time of the year. In summer, it is advisable to place it in the fresh air, in a warm, windless place.

During the winter dormant period in a cool location (temperature no higher than +12 degrees), bougainvillea can be in a semi-shaded place, but in the spring, when growth begins, you should not hesitate to transfer the plant to a sunny windowsill.

Temperature content: Bougainvillea
Bungenvillea is thermophilic. Except for the dormant period, for abundant flowering and active growth it requires high air temperatures (not lower than 22 degrees).

In winter, it is advisable to reduce the temperature to +10...+12 degrees - a cool dormant period will have a beneficial effect on subsequent flowering.

At winter temperatures above +18...+20 degrees, bougainvillea continues to grow, and then it may require additional lighting.

Watering: Watering bougainvillea must be very precise - prolonged waterlogging and drying out of the soil is unacceptable.

In summer, the plant is watered abundantly with warm water in the morning as the top layer of soil dries. The remaining water in the pan is immediately drained.

In winter, watering is very limited and largely depends on environmental conditions. Particularly carefully water plants located in rooms with a temperature not exceeding +12 degrees.

Air humidity:
Bougainvillea prefers high humidity. During spraying, the plants are not allowed to get water on their bracts.

In winter, bougainvillea is sprayed only if it is located in a warm, heated room with dry air. Plants overwintering at low temperatures are not sprayed to avoid infections and fungal diseases.

Soil and replanting:
When growing bougainvillea, use nutritious fertile soil for tub plants mixed with a small amount of coarse sand. Young plants are replanted in the spring once every 1-2 years, adults - once every 3-5 years. When transplanting, bougainvillea does not disturb the old clod of earth (transfer), trying to injure the roots as little as possible. The new pot is chosen to be slightly larger than the previous one, with a sufficient number of drainage holes. The optimal distance between a lump of earth and the walls of a new pot is no more than 2-3 cm. As an additional prevention of waterlogging of the soil, drainage from broken brick or expanded clay is poured into the bottom of the pot in a layer of 2-3 cm (for tub specimens - 5-10 cm).

Bougainvilleas do not always tolerate replanting well (especially adult plants, if the roots are damaged) - they can get sick, losing leaves and bracts.

It has also been noticed that in a spacious pot, bougainvillea blooms less profusely, growing a large mass of leaves and long shoots. For this reason, indoor specimens are replanted only in cases of extreme necessity - only when a cramped pot begins to inhibit the growth of bougainvillea as a whole. Sometimes it is better to postpone replanting a plant for a year, replacing it with more frequent application of fertilizers in the summer.

In a greenhouse, where it is possible to keep large tubs of specimens, bougainvillea (including its roots) is immediately given as much space as possible. In this case, the plant blooms moderately in the first years, but grows strongly, growing meter-long shoots, and reaches its peak form in 4-5 years.

Feeding: From April to September, bougainvillea is fed weekly with complex mineral fertilizer. Large indoor plants, which are kept in cramped pots, are fed 2 times a week during flowering.

In winter, fertilizing is not used.

Pruning: Formative pruning of bougainvillea is carried out in early spring (simultaneously with the beginning of growth) or in autumn (after the end of the flowering period). Strong annual shoots are shortened by half, and those that are too thin, weak and shriveled are cut out completely.

During the summer, faded young branches of bougainvillea are pruned immediately after flowering, usually leaving no more than 4-6 buds on them. This causes active growth of new short side shoots, which manage to bloom in the same season. At the same time, they bloom more luxuriantly than those shoots that appear on bougainvillea without pruning, as a result of its natural branching.

However, it is not recommended to prune lignified bougainvillea stems that are more than 3-4 years old. If such stems are cut off, then new growth may not be seen at all - bougainvillea is very reluctant to awaken old dormant buds.

Reproduction: Bougainvillea is propagated in spring and summer by ripened green cuttings. The cuttings are cut just below the bud and treated with a root formation stimulator. Having torn off the lower leaves, the cuttings are planted in a mixture of sand and peat, deepened by 2 internodes. After this, they are placed in a greenhouse or covered with a jar to create high air humidity. Place bougainvillea cuttings in a bright place; maintain moderate soil moisture. During their rooting, bottom heating is desirable. The optimal air and ground temperature at this time is at least +23…+25 degrees. Cuttings take root in such conditions within a month.

There are cases of successful rooting of bougainvillea cuttings in water at high air humidity.

Bougainvillea is also propagated by layering. In indoor conditions, this method of propagation gives the highest percentage of rooting.

For layering, select a flexible, mature, but not yet lignified shoot, and make several cuts in the bark on it. This shoot is bent at the place of the cut and secured with a piece of flexible wire (bent in the form of a hairpin) in a separate pot with light soil. After successful rooting, the shoot is separated from the mother plant.

Bougainvillea - the plant received its name in honor of Louis Antoine de Bougainville (1729-1811), a French traveler, leader of the first French expedition around the world.

This tropical plant belongs to the genus of evergreen plants of the Nyctaginaceae (Night-flowered) family and is common in South America.

All the beauty of bougainvillea is created not by flowers, as it might seem at first, but by wide bracts.

The splendor and duration of flowering brought bougainvillea fame and popularity among gardeners.

In mild climates, thorny vines form “living walls,” cascades and arches, and serve as decoration for pergolas, columns, and pavilions. Here these plants grow on rocky slopes, and in places of civilization it seems that they grow straight from the asphalt. Bougainvillea is also grown in pots, and elegant and decorative bougainvillea is very loved by gardeners.

The bougainvillea flowers themselves are small and completely inconspicuous. The originality and decorative value of the plant is given by the colored (pink, red, purple, white) bracts of the panicle inflorescences. They, like a veil, surround each trio of flowers.

Bracts can have a variety of shapes: round, heart-shaped, arrow-shaped, triangular. It is thanks to these “bright packages” that the flowers become noticeable from afar. The bright color of the bracts lasts up to three weeks.

Purple bougainvillea

At home, depending on the wishes and capabilities of the owners, bougainvillea is grown in the form of a vine, a standard tree, or a spreading bush.

Bougainvillea prefers a place well lit by bright sun, because in its homeland it receives plenty of tropical sun. Indoors, bougainvillea suffers from lack of light, especially in winter. Poor light can cause leaf drop and delayed flowering. Artificial lighting can help to some extent. In summer, plants are taken out into the fresh air.

The maximum permissible air temperature in summer is 30-32°C, and the optimal one is 20-22°C. As soon as night temperatures drop to 10°C, the container with the plant is brought indoors. In winter, it is advisable to reduce the temperature to 10-12 degrees. A cool dormant period has a beneficial effect on subsequent flowering.

Bougainvillea requires frequent, abundant, but not excessive watering, and in winter watering is generally significantly reduced. Since bougainvillea can easily tolerate high levels of calcium and magnesium salts in water, even hard water can be used for irrigation.

If bougainvillea grows well, but blooms reluctantly, then less frequent watering will help change the situation. But as soon as flower buds begin to form at the tips of young shoots, watering is increased, bringing it to optimal.

In nature, bougainvillea grows on carbonate soils, so when planning to grow bougainvillea at home, take fairly heavy and fertile soil and mix it with a small amount of small pebbles or expanded clay. And, of course, don't forget about drainage.

Bougainvillea is replanted in the spring when the old pot becomes crowded. To maintain the beautiful appearance of bougainvillea, it is necessary to constantly prune. This technique helps to achieve the development of a large number of young shoots from dormant buds.

It is best to prune in early spring. Strong annual shoots are shortened by half, thin, weak and shriveled shoots are cut out completely. During the summer, faded shoots are pruned or pinched. This way you can get a second wave of flowering in the same season.

The plant reaches its peak form in the 4-5th year. Bougainvillea flowers appear on last year's shoots. During budding and flowering, the bougainvillea pot should not be turned towards the light.

Bougainvillea is propagated by apical cuttings. To do this, in the summer, shoots about 6-8 cm long are cut off from young branches. Having torn off all the lower leaves, the cuttings are buried into two internodes into a substrate consisting of a mixture of garden soil and coarse sand (1:2). The cuttings take root within a month.

A bottom heating device is desirable, since the root system is formed at a temperature of about 18°C. A completely unusual effect is obtained if you plant several plants with bracts of different colors in one container. At first, young shoots are not cut off, but intertwined as they grow, forming a kind of trunk.

Scientific classification:
Kingdom: Plants
Department: Angiosperms
Class: Dicotyledons
Order: Cloves
Family: Nyctaginaceae
Genus: Bougainvillea (lat. Bougainvillea)

Miss Alice

California Gold

Twilight Delight

Delta Dawn

Raspberry Ice

Double Imperial Delight

Orange Ice

Bougainvillea in nature is a powerful woody vine, spreading shrub or even a small tree. Small, inconspicuous yellow-white flowers are surrounded by three bracts (bractea) up to 6 cm long. People often incorrectly call these brightly colored bracts flowers. In modern varieties they come in a variety of colors: purple, violet, orange, red, pink, peach, cream and white. Often there are two-colored or changing color during flowering.

Bracts can also have a variety of shapes (round, heart-shaped, arrow-shaped, triangular) and edges (scalloped, wavy, serrated, etc.).

Due to the fact that bougainvillea has long flexible young shoots that become lignified with age, it is easy to form. Depending on wishes and possibilities, it is grown in the form of a standard tree, vine, spreading bush, or with the help of supports the plant is given different shapes: pyramids, spheres, wreaths, etc.

In a greenhouse or winter garden, bougainvillea is most often planted in a large tub or directly in the soil of the greenhouse near the southern wall and grown as a vine or large spreading bush. In this case, it grows very luxuriantly, becoming more beautiful year after year. In the summer, such specimens turn into an enchanting waterfall of “flowers” ​​that completely hides the leaves and shoots.

Trees “created” from several varieties of bougainvillea of ​​different colors, grafted onto one trunk, also look very impressive. The same effect can be achieved without grafting skills - just plant several plants of different varieties in one container. At first, young stems are not cut, but, providing support, they are intertwined as they grow, forming a kind of trunk.

Location

Sunny at any time of the year. In summer, it is advisable to place bougainvillea outdoors in a warm, windless place.
During the winter dormant period in a cool location (temperature no higher than 12C), bougainvillea can be in a semi-shaded place, but once growth begins, you should not hesitate to transfer the plant to a sunny windowsill.

Temperature

The plant is thermophilic. Except for the dormant period, bougainvillea requires high (not lower than 22C) air temperature for abundant flowering and active growth.
In winter, it is advisable to reduce the temperature to 10-12C. A cool dormant period will have a beneficial effect on subsequent flowering.

At winter temperatures above +18-20C, bougainvillea continues to grow and may require additional lighting.

Watering bougainvillea must be very precise - prolonged waterlogging and drying out of the soil is unacceptable.
In summer, water generously with warm water in the morning as the top layer of soil dries. The remaining water in the pan is immediately drained.
In winter, watering is very limited and largely depends on the ambient temperature. Plants located in rooms with a temperature not exceeding +12C should be watered especially carefully.

Air humidity

High. During spraying, do not allow water to get on the bracts.
In winter, bougainvilleas are sprayed only if they are located in warm, heated rooms with dry air. Plants overwintering at low temperatures are not sprayed to avoid infections and fungal diseases.

Soil and replanting

Use nutritious fertile soil for tub plants mixed with a small amount of coarse sand. Young plants are replanted in the spring once every 1-2 years, adults - once every 3-5 years. When replanting, do not disturb the old clod of earth (roll it over) and try to injure the roots as little as possible. The new pot should not be too large and should have enough drainage holes. The optimal distance between the lump of earth and the walls of the new pot is no more than 2-3 centimeters. As an additional prevention of waterlogging, drainage is poured from broken brick or expanded clay in a layer of 2-3 centimeters (for tub specimens - 5-10 cm).

Bougainvilleas do not always tolerate transplantation well (especially adult plants); they can get sick, losing leaves and bracts.

It has also been noticed that in a spacious pot, bougainvillea blooms less profusely, growing a large mass of leaves and long shoots. For this reason, indoor specimens are replanted only in cases of extreme necessity - only when a cramped pot begins to inhibit the growth of the plant as a whole. Sometimes it is better to postpone replanting for a year, replacing it with more frequent fertilization in the summer.

In a greenhouse, where it is possible to keep large tubs of specimens, bougainvillea (including its roots) is immediately given as much space as possible. In this case, the plant blooms moderately in the first years, but grows strongly, growing meter-long shoots, and reaches its peak form in 4-5 years.

Feeding

From April to September, bougainvillea is fed weekly with complex mineral fertilizer. Large indoor plants, which are kept in cramped pots, are fed 2 times a week during the flowering period.
In winter, fertilizing is not used.

Formative pruning is carried out in early spring, simultaneously with the beginning of growth, or in the fall after the end of the flowering period. Strong annual shoots are shortened by half, and those that are too thin, weak and shriveled are completely cut out.
During the summer, faded young branches are pruned immediately after flowering, usually leaving no more than 4-6 buds. This causes the growth of new short side shoots, which manage to bloom in the same season. At the same time, they bloom more luxuriantly than those shoots that appear on bougainvillea without pruning, as a result of natural branching

Note: Woody stems older than 3-4 years are not recommended to be pruned. If such stems are cut off, you may not see new growth at all - bougainvillea is very reluctant to awaken old dormant buds.

Reproduction

Bougainvillea is propagated in spring and summer by ripened green cuttings. The cuttings are cut just below the bud and treated with a root formation stimulator. Having torn off the lower leaves, the cuttings are planted in a mixture of sand and peat, deepened by 2 internodes. After this, they are placed in a greenhouse or covered with a jar to create high air humidity and placed in a bright place, maintaining moderate soil moisture. During rooting, bottom heating is desirable. The optimal air and soil temperature at this time is at least +23-25C. The cuttings take root within a month.

There are cases of successful rooting of bougainvillea cuttings in water at high air humidity.

Bougainvillea is also propagated by layering. In indoor conditions, this method of propagation gives the highest percentage of rooting.

For layering, select a flexible, mature but not yet lignified shoot and make several cuts in the bark on it. This shoot is bent at the incision site and secured with a piece of flexible wire, bent in the form of a hairpin, in a separate pot with light soil. After successful rooting, the shoot is cut off.

Problems

The plant sheds leaves and bracts

• Change of place
  Bougainvillea is very sensitive to sudden changes in conditions. Immediately after purchase, it can shed most of its flowers and leaves. The same can happen when you bring bougainvillea indoors in the fall. This is a natural process for it, and if the conditions in the new place for bougainvillea are optimal, then after some time the plant will completely recover.
  Also, during budding and flowering, you should not turn the pot with the plant in relation to the light source.
• Draft
  Bougainvillea prefers fresh air, but does not tolerate drafts and cold winds. When placing outdoors, you should choose windless places with a warm southern side and do not place pots with plants directly next to an open window or in a draft.
• Violation of the watering regime
  Bougainvillea does not forgive mistakes in watering. In summer, the soil should always be evenly moist without stagnation of water at the bottom of the pot and prolonged drying out.
  When water stagnates, the leaves turn yellow and fall off; when dry, they wither, curl and fall green.
  In both cases, the plant loses most of its buds and bracts.
• The air is too dry
  In winter, bougainvillea should not be placed near a heating radiator.
  You also need to be careful in early spring, when young shoots appear on bougainvillea and the first flower buds are formed. Dry air from radiators still operating at this time can lead to drying out of new shoots and the appearance of ugly leaves and bracts.
• Reducing daylight hours
  Bougainvillea may lose a lot of leaves in the fall and winter. This is a natural phenomenon during the rest period.

The plant does not bloom or blooms weakly

• Too spacious pot
  It has been noticed that a cramped pot inhibits the growth of shoots, but stimulates bougainvillea to flower.
• Lack of light
  First of all, I point out the lack of light by elongated, weak shoots with long internodes and pale leaves.
• Lack of proper rest period
  If bougainvillea spent the winter at high temperatures, this may negatively affect flowering. The optimal wintering temperature is +10-12C.
• Low summer temperatures
  In rainy, cold summers, bougainvillea blooms sparingly, the bracts have a faded color that is not characteristic of the variety, or are not colored at all.
• Sometimes a plant does not want to bloom for no apparent reason.. In this case, an artificially created “dry period” helps. To do this, watering is greatly reduced for 2-4 weeks and no feeding is done. Water little by little only when the earthen ball is dry enough. As soon as flower buds begin to form at the tips of young shoots, watering is increased, bringing it to optimal.

Plant death

• Gross violation of the irrigation regime
  Bougainvillea does not tolerate prolonged stagnation of water at the bottom of the container. You should water especially carefully in winter, when the plant’s need for water is minimal. To avoid such problems, you need to provide drainage when planting, and a sufficient number of holes in the bottom of the container. A little coarse sand should be added to the soil.
• High temperature and lack of light during the dormant period
  In a hot place, bougainvillea continues to grow even in winter. If the plant does not have enough light, it may become depleted and even die.
• Frost
  Bougainvillea reacts painfully to temperatures below +5C and does not tolerate frost at all. As soon as night temperatures drop to +6-8C, the container with the plant is brought indoors.

Pests

In indoor conditions, it is most often affected by spider mites, whiteflies and scale insects.
When kept outdoors, young shoots are often attacked by aphids.

Bromeliads have become popular relatively recently. The latter also includes the southern beauty of tropical origin, bougainvillea - at home it is just as spectacular as in the open ground in its historical homeland. The plant received its melodic name Bougainvillea in honor of the French navigator Louis Antoine de Bougainvillea. It was he who led the first French expedition around the world, in which his compatriot botanist F. Commerson took part. The scientist brought to Europe a plant that was previously unknown in the countries of the Old World.
In the photo: Bougainvillea /Bougainvillea/, grown at home

Bougainvillea: description

In its homeland in South America, bougainvillea is sometimes found in the form of a vine or a small tree, but most often it is a shrub with flexible creeping, climbing or clinging shoots. They are covered with sparse spines, with the help of which the plant is secured to the support. The shoots grow very quickly, reaching a length of 5 m. In our climate, growing bougainvillea is possible only in a room or greenhouse. At home, bougainvillea also gives good growth of up to 1.5 m if its planting and care are correct.

Bougainvillea has oval leaves, pointed at the end, 5-8 cm long. They are bright green on top, lighter on the back side. The tubular flowers are inconspicuous, pale yellow, very small, and quickly fade. The bushes are decorated with colorful bracts - bracts, which resemble paper. They can be of various colors, round, triangular or heart-shaped in shape and reach a length of 3-5 cm. There are various shades of lilac, pure white and purple, red, pink and orange. Modern varieties of bougainvillea have an even wider range of colors; their bracts can be purple, cream, orange, or two-color; There are forms that change color over time. Unlike flowers, bracts decorate the plant for a very long time.

Bougainvillea grown at home blooms from May to November, in a natural environment in open ground it lasts longer, 8-9 months a year. At optimal temperature and lighting during flowering, the leaves are hidden under the bright multi-colored caps of its stipules.

The dream of many breeders involved in developing new varieties - bougainvillea without thorns or with pure blue bracts - still remains a dream.

In the photo: Wonderful Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis)
< На фото: Бугенвиллия голая/гладкая (Bougainvillea glabra)

Bougainvillea: care at home

The genus belongs to the family of Nociformes, or Nyktaginaceae, and is represented by only 15 (according to some sources 18) species. Of these, only a few are suitable for growing indoors. These are primarily the Brazilian species Naked Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea glabra) and its numerous varieties obtained as a result of the painstaking work of breeders, as well as the wonderful Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis). Some new varieties are distinguished not only by decorative bracts, but also by variegated leaves, for example, the bougainvillea variety "Harris" with cream veins or "Sanderana variegated" - a cream stripe runs along the perimeter of the leaves.

No less popular among collectors and gardeners is Bougainvillea Butiana, which tolerates pruning well. The bush can be given almost any shape - a heart, a wreath, a small tree.

Bougainvillea, as a truly tropical plant, loves space and bright light, which are quite difficult to fully create at home. To get a healthy flowering plant, you need to stock up on knowledge and patience.

The best place to keep a photophilous Brazilian is a greenhouse. There is enough space and a lot of light, it is possible to regulate air humidity and temperature. In such conditions, in one season the shoots grow by several meters, reaching three meters in height or length, depending on the method of formation of the bush.

In a greenhouse, bougainvillea is usually grown in large containers placed near the south wall. In this case, it is possible to obtain large, lushly flowering specimens.

In the photo: Bougainvillea /Bougainvillea/, grown at home

At home, the southern beauty will feel good on a glazed and insulated loggia, where in winter the temperature stays within 10°C.

In a room, it is best to place it on a south, or at least a west, window, so that the plant is exposed to direct sunlight for at least 5 hours a day. This is one of the most important conditions for the normal development and flowering of bougainvillea. With a lack of light, the shoots become very elongated, the leaves turn pale, and flowering stops. In addition, bougainvillea is afraid of drafts at home, so when ventilating the room, you need to make sure that the flow of cold air does not hit the plant.

It is useful to take small bushes out into the garden, onto a terrace or an open balcony for the summer, the main thing is that the place where the plant stands is protected from strong winds.

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Bougainvillea: planting and care

Bougainvillea reacts sharply to changes in living conditions, so at home it is not rearranged unless absolutely necessary. Otherwise, the capricious tropical plant may shed not only flowers, but also leaves, especially if the new conditions turn out to be worse than the previous ones. If the lighting and temperature in the new place are optimal, after a short time the leaves will begin to grow again.

Active growth occurs in spring - autumn, during this period the room temperature is maintained within 22-25°C. In an apartment with central heating, the leaves are sprayed with soft water, and care must be taken that moisture does not fall on the bracts.

The plant is fed once every 10 days, alternating organic (most often slurry) and complex mineral fertilizers. Experienced gardeners recommend using fertilizers with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium from May to August, since excess nitrogen causes increased shoot growth to the detriment of flowering. In winter, bougainvillea is not fed, and if the room temperature drops below 15°C, it is not sprayed.

At home, special attention should be paid to watering bougainvillea. In the warm season, it is watered as needed, usually 1-2 times a week. It should be remembered that in nature bougainvillea grows on rocky soil on mountain slopes, and therefore does not tolerate stagnant moisture. The water from the pan must be drained after watering, otherwise the roots will quickly rot and the plant may die.

In winter, watering is significantly reduced, moistening the substrate just enough to prevent it from drying out. As a rule, one watering every 10-15 days is sufficient. The cooler the room, the less watering is required. If bougainvillea has dropped its leaves at home, stop watering.

In the photo: Home-grown bougainvillea surprises with its variety of varieties

Planting bougainvillea

At home, small pots of 1.5 to 5 liters are best suited for planting bougainvillea. In large containers, bougainvillea grows actively, forming a lush green mass, but it blooms worse than in a cramped pot. Bougainvillea is grown in bulk containers only in a greenhouse, where there is enough light for the normal development of the bush.

The soil mixture for planting bougainvillea can be prepared from leaf and turf soil with the addition of coarse sand. All ingredients are taken in equal quantities. Expanded clay, vermiculite or small shards are added to the resulting mixture.

The soil should be light and sufficiently nutritious, but not moisture-intensive, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction (pH 6.8-7). At the bottom of the pot, drainage is arranged by pouring a layer of expanded clay, small pebbles, shards or polystyrene foam. The larger the container in which bougainvillea grows, the thicker the drainage layer should be. In this case, bougainvillea, planting and caring for which requires a lot of patience, will definitely thank its owners with bright and lush flowering.

Bougainvillea is replanted as needed, old bushes - once every 3-5 years, young ones - once every 2 years. This is best done in the spring, at the very beginning of active growth. The earthen lump should not be disturbed; the plants are simply transferred to a pot of a slightly larger diameter. There should be no more than 2-3 cm between the roots and the walls of the pot. The free space is carefully filled with fresh substrate.

Trimming

When caring for bougainvillea grown at home (in pots), annual pruning of the plant is important. To make the bushes decorative for the next year, in the fall or early winter the shoots are shortened to half their length. This enhances the growth of lateral branches. Spring pruning also has a beneficial effect on the formation of a lush bush. In addition, in the spring, very thin, twisted, poorly placed shoots are removed, and branches that are too long are shortened. In summer, young branches are pruned immediately after flowering, then flowers with bright bracts again form on the growing side shoots. It is not recommended to prune shoots older than 3-4 years, since very few dormant buds awaken on old wood, and new lateral branches do not form.

Many varieties of bougainvillea can easily be formed into the form of a bush, tree, vine, and with the help of pruning and tying to supports, you can create original compositions in the form of a wreath, heart, ball, etc. Plants with different colored bracts grown in the same pot look great. On video: various types and varieties of bougainvillea

Bougainvillea at home in winter

In winter, bougainvillea will require special care. In winter in the middle zone, the amount of light decreases sharply and the plant, accustomed to the tropical sun, begins to feel uncomfortable. At this time of year, bougainvillea needs to be given a rest period. To do this, it is transferred to a bright but cool room with a temperature no higher than 10°C (the lower temperature limit is + 5°C, at 0°C this tropical species dies). Watering is reduced.

If the temperature is above 9-10°C, then bougainvillea at home does not go into a dormant period and, with sufficient light, heat and moisture, blooms in winter. In this case, flowering will be weaker, and its quality will sharply decrease next spring. As the day length increases, the temperature is gradually increased and the amount of watering is increased. In the video: tropical bougainvillea grown at home in Siberia.

Bougainvillea: propagation

Bougainvillea is propagated at home by cuttings. In spring, semi-lignified apical cuttings up to 10 cm long, remaining after pruning, are used for rooting. In summer, cuttings are specially cut.

The lower cut is made immediately under the bud, the lower leaves are removed, after which the cuttings are treated in a solution of a growth stimulator. The cuttings are buried into the prepared soil mixture into 2 internodes, positioned at an angle of 45 °

Finely chopped sphagnum moss, sand and coal are used as a rooting substrate. Root at a temperature of 21-23 °C. The best effect is achieved when using special greenhouses with bottom heating. During rooting, the lighting should be diffused and the soil should be moderately moist. Plantings need to be regularly sprayed and ventilated. Some gardeners manage to root cuttings in the usual way - under a glass or plastic cap. This kind of rooting takes a long time.

Bougainvillea propagation by layering

To get new plants in a less troublesome way, long vines are dug in, after cutting the bark into rings. The shoot is bent to the ground and pinned, sprinkled with light fertile substrate on top. New shoots will soon begin to grow from the axillary buds. When the young seedling is strong enough, it is separated. Bougainvillea grown from cuttings is planted in a permanent place. On video: how to grow bougainvillea at home

Bougainvillea pests and home growing problems

When grown at home, bougainvillea is more susceptible to diseases and pests than in its natural environment. Aphids and mealybugs pose a danger to the plant; red spider mites less commonly settle on leaves and shoots. Most often, bougainvillea suffers, planting and caring for it incorrectly.

Aphids can cause significant damage from spring to mid-autumn. Insects settle on the underside of leaves and suck the juice from young shoots and buds, weakening the plants. To combat aphids, bushes are treated with Actellik solution.

The mealybug affects not only the leaves, but the buds and flowers. Specimens affected by the pest are noticeably stunted in growth. A sooty fungus appears on the sticky sweet secretions of the insect. Blackened leaves are removed, the rest are washed with warm water, to which you can add insecticidal or regular laundry soap.

Often at home, bougainvillea looks absolutely healthy, but does not bloom. In this case, you can try to force it to flower. To do this, stop feeding completely and sharply reduce watering. Regular watering and feeding of bougainvillea begins only after flower buds appear on the shoots.

Bougainvillea Bougainvillea, "paper flower". Shrubs or shrubby vines with clinging or creeping prickly shoots and with apical flowers collected in groups of 1-3, surrounded by brightly colored (pink, lilac, violet, red or orange) bracts.

Etymology

The genus got its name in honor of the first French navigator, Count Louis Antoine de Bougainville (1729-1811), who circumnavigated the world from 1766 to 1768. In some countries, bougainvillea is called the "paper flower", probably because the bracts look a bit like colored crumpled paper.

Types and varieties of bougainvillea

In South America (Brazil, Colombia, Peru) there are about 14 species of shrubs, lianas, and less often trees of this genus.

In indoor culture, bougainvillea is grown as an excellent climbing plant. Mature plants, when kept in the light, can actively bloom from April to September.

Currently, many beautiful interspecific hybrids are mainly grown. The varieties with white, yellow or pink bracts are especially beautiful.

Bougainvillea spectabilis

A lignified liana with spiny shoots and hairy stems, petioles and leaf margins.

The leaves have velvety pubescence. They are alternate, oval, short-petioled, pointed, entire.

The flowers are long, up to 2-5 cm, solitary or 2-5, surrounded by 2-3 large purple or pink-red bracts, turning pale as they bloom. The perianth is tubular, yellowish-green.

The known form " Lateritia" with brick-red bracts.

Used as an hanging plant and as a vine.

Bougainvillea naked, or smooth bougainvillea (Bougainvillea glabra)

Homeland - Brazil. In nature it grows on rocky places with carbonate soils.

A climbing or climbing woody vine with a bare, less often spiny, strongly branched stem, in nature up to 5 m tall. It differs from the previous species in having less spiny and pubescent parts.

The species has glossy bare oval leaves with a sharp tip, 10-15 cm long, 4-6 cm wide. Forms with white, lemon yellow, apricot, pink, lilac, orange and red colored bracts are known.

Flowering is abundant and long lasting.

The variegated form with creamy-white spots on the leaves produces fewer flowers, but it is also less demanding on maintenance conditions (temperature and lighting).

Bougainvillea care

Bougainvillea is a medium-difficult plant to care for.

Bougainvillea is photophilous and requires good lighting, without summer shading and intensive ventilation. In winter, the plant is kept at a temperature of +12...+14 °C; at temperatures above +18 °C, bougainvillea must be provided with additional lighting.

In the warm season, watering is plentiful. In September-October, plant growth slows down, partial shedding of leaves is observed, at this time watering is limited, but the earth clod is not allowed to dry out, since if there is insufficient moisture, the tops of the shoots with the flower buds located on them may dry out.

The plant develops well at high air humidity, but spraying is undesirable; for this purpose it is better to use special room humidifiers.

Plant feeding is carried out once every 2 weeks from February to August, if possible using organic fertilizers.

Adult plants are replanted every 2-3 years in the spring, young plants - annually. The plants are carefully transferred with a lump of earth into a larger container, taking into account that their roots are very fragile and easily damaged. Use a soil mixture of turf soil, compost and leaf soil (1:2:1), preferably adding bone meal or other slow-acting phosphorus fertilizer. To inhibit growth, use cramped pots.

In February, the shoots of the plant are shortened by a third, dry and weak branches are cut out. If the plant is very thick or poorly formed, then more radical pruning is required.

Problems when growing bougainvillea:

- leaves turn yellow- this occurs when there is excessively high humidity;

- leaves fall- reason - too dry air;

- winter shedding of leaves natural;

- sometimes affected by scale insects, aphids and scale insects.

Bougainvillea propagation

Reproduction is carried out throughout the year by layering or cuttings from mature shoots. It is advisable to use root formation stimulants. Cuttings are taken with 3-4 buds and rooted in a substrate of leaf soil and sand, taken in equal parts. Rooting occurs within about a month, then the cuttings are carefully transplanted into pots. When the plants reach 5 cm in height, they are pinched for better branching; when new shoots grow, the procedure is repeated 2 more times. It is important to form beautiful bushes at a young age, since adult plants “skip” flowering after pinching.

Ecology of home

The substances that the cells of these plants secrete are biologically active and serve as a source of improving the air environment, which has a positive effect on the human body. By creating “clean air”, the plant helps to increase efficiency, overcome stress, and normalize sleep.

Like any beautiful plant, it helps create an aesthetically pleasing and comfortable indoor environment.

Bougainvillea energy

According to Feng Shui, bougainvillea in the home is considered an auspicious sign; it attracts energies that promote good luck and financial prosperity.

Most vines provide a powerful source of energy from which you can always replenish your depleted resources. The only one with whom the liana rarely gets along is Sagittarius, who will lose strength.