If you've ever tried to root green cuttings, you probably know that ...
Chrysanthemums are relatively drought-resistant. Chrysanthemums are light-requiring (in the shade, the bushes will be less lush). Chrysanthemums are cold-hardy, need shelter for the winter. Chrysanthemums need proper pinching.
Chrysanthemums by their type are: large-flowered (cut), branch (small-flowered and large-flowered), potted (for indoor and growing in pots) and Korean (oak).
Landing
Chrysanthemums are planted and transplanted both in spring and autumn. In spring - when the threat of night frosts has passed, In autumn, no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable frosts.
In each planting hole, half a bucket of humus or compost, or vermicompost is introduced.
When planting, the seedlings are not deepened.
After planting, be sure to water it.
The minimum landing pattern is 30 × 30. Otherwise, the bushes will not be lush and will be too tall. 
During the summer season, until flowering, do not forget about top dressing, we water it with complex fertilizer every two weeks. In our opinion, good results are obtained with the fertilizer of the ROST company (concentrate or universal). This fertilizer is based on potassium humate. Compared to conventional organo-mineral fertilizers, ROST contains a high concentration of potassium humate, NPK, microelements, and has fungicidal activity.
Chrysanthemum formation (pinching)
Large-flowered chrysanthemums
grown in one or three stems with one flower on each of them.
For large-flowered chrysanthemums, it is very important to pinch on time. 
As soon as the young chrysanthemum releases the 8th leaf, pinch the crown. Then the plant will release several new shoots. Of these, 2-3 of the strongest are left, and the rest are removed. By the way, the removed excess cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted by cuttings.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are stepchild, removing the occasionally appearing side shoots, otherwise the flowers will be small.
Branch chrysanthemums are formed so that one branch gives a whole bunch of inflorescences. After the 8th leaf, we also pinch the shoot.
we stimulate their growth. The longer the side shoots grow, the better the branch will look when cut. When the chrysanthemum branch begins to bud (buds will be tied), then pinch the largest first bud, leave up to 10 of the best lateral buds, and remove the rest of the trifle. As a result, you will get a uniform flowering branch.
Potted chrysanthemums
A feature of such chrysanthemums is the ability to form spherical bushes of short stature (20-40 cm) with abundant flowering.
Potted chrysanthemums can be grown in open and closed ground, used for gardening in flowerpots on flower beds, on a balcony, with subsequent drift into the house.
These chrysanthemums do well without pinching.
But if you want to create a masterpiece with a very dense bush, then we pinch the top of the seedling at a height of about 10 cm.Then, as the side shoots grow (after two weeks), we pinch all the side shoots.
Korean chrysanthemums (oaks)
This is the only hardy group of chrysanthemums. It is grown without hassle in the garden, for many years, without digging for the winter.
Korean chrysanthemums develop quickly and give a lot of growth. The planted cutting will soon become a massive bush, and in favorable conditions it will grow every year and expand further.
This chrysanthemum grows well without pinching. But if it seems to you that your Korean chrysanthemum is too stretched upward or it does not have a dense enough bush, then the pinching will not be superfluous (according to the principle of branch chrysanthemums).
Chrysanthemum wintering (shelter for the winter)
Only Korean chrysanthemums winter successfully in open ground (with proper shelter). The purpose of the shelter is to preserve root growth. To do this, we cut the bushes to a height of 15 - 20 cm above the soil level, immediately after flowering. In mid-October, we add the bushes with earth, peat, compost or vermicompost (which is at hand), and cover them with fallen leaves on top. In the spring, as soon as the frosts subside, we remove the shelter.
Heat-loving chrysanthemums - potted, twig and large-flowered - are dug out of the ground in the second half of September and placed in a cool room. It can be a basement (preferably dry) with a temperature not exceeding 10 ° C.
Excavated bushes with a clod of earth are cleaned of dried shoots, dying foliage and placed in boxes, old buckets or pots filled with a fertile mixture (2 parts of humus or compost, 1 part of peat, 0.5 parts of sand).
If the shoots of chrysanthemums have grown in winter, remove the upper part from them so that 2-3 nodes remain on the stem.
So the bushes are stored until the end of February. During this period, watering is carried out no more than two to three times a month.
In March, the bushes from the basement are transferred to a glazed veranda or greenhouse with a higher temperature than in the basement. Only in the presence of light and heat can the shoots develop successfully and will not be elongated, they will acquire a normal green color. 10 days after the transfer of the chrysanthemum, it is advisable to feed it with a complex fertilizer. We use GROWTH.
In late May - early June, overwintered bushes are planted in open ground. Before planting, mothers are divided into parts and seated.
Eastern wisdom advises everyone who wants to live a happy life to grow. According to an ancient Chinese legend, the white dragon tried to encroach on the sun itself. He tore it with teeth and claws, and sparks fell to the ground and turned into yellow flowers, which were later called chrysanthemums. They are depicted on the Japanese coat of arms, coins and seals, which does not prevent Asians from cakes and salads. As a garden flower, chrysanthemum has been known for 3 millennia, but interest in it is only growing.
Breeders constantly strive to get as large-flowered varieties as possible, but gardeners are more attracted to small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums, since they are resistant to low temperatures, are good outdoors in combination with other flowers, have high decorative qualities, bloom for a long time and profusely almost until November ... Therefore, it is not for nothing that chrysanthemum is considered the queen of autumn. In addition, it is grown in pots to decorate houses, and when cut, it lasts for a long time - up to 30 days, so it is ideal for bouquets.
In the open field, chrysanthemum blooms in August and pleases with its lush flowers all autumn, withstand frosts down to -7 ° C. Depending on the variety, the stems reach a height of 30-80 cm and are decorated with double, semi-double and simple inflorescences of unusually diverse shades.
In the northern regions of Russia, it is believed that it is impossible to grow chrysanthemums in the open field, but in fact, they can successfully winter with light in central Russia and even in Siberia! In these areas, after cutting the stems, hemp with a height of 10-15 cm is well spud, covered with foliage and insulated.
Planting chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums do not like the slightest shading and moisture retention, so the place for them should be sunny and at least slightly elevated. This is a guarantee that the shoots will not stretch, change the time and period of flowering. However, the root system of chrysanthemums is superficial, so the soil should not be overdried.The ideal soil for them is loose, moisture-permeable, with an optimal amount of various nutrients. With dense and infertile soil in the garden, before planting the cuttings, a little peat or rotted peat is introduced into the soil, but do not abuse them, otherwise the plants will be too tall to the detriment of flowering. Apply a small amount of coarse sand to the soil for drainage. Potting soil is desirable.
The ideal day for planting is cloudy or rainy. In hot, sunny weather, plant cuttings in the early morning or late evening when the sun is less active. Pour holes 35-40 cm deep with plenty of water, put drainage, earth mixed with in a ratio of 20: 1. Chrysanthemum is placed and covered with earth. The roots grow parallel to the soil, so they are not buried too deep. For tall varieties, additional support is needed.
Immediately after planting in the ground, the first pinching is carried out - the growing point on the plant is removed. 3 weeks after planting, break out the upper part of the shoot with 2-3 nodes - the second pinch. The first days after planting, artificially shade the seedlings so that they do not suffer from bright sunlight. The best option is a non-woven fabric, but it is advisable that it does not come into contact with the leaves.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums
Since, when propagated by seeds, varietal characteristics are not preserved, by dividing the bushes or root shoots, which are separated from the mother bush.In any case, it is necessary to plant and transplant chrysanthemums. in the spring, in May, when cold snaps pass. It is also permissible at the beginning of summer - this will not affect the development of chrysanthemums. In the next video, you can see the process of reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush in the spring.
If you got hold of the planting material closer to autumn, then plant it in the ground until September 15, so that before the onset of frost, the plants have time to root properly. If you did not have time during this period, then plant the seedling in a shallow wide pot, cutting low. Send the container with chrysanthemum to a dark place to a warm loggia or a heated terrace, where until spring the temperature will be at +4 ... + 6 ° С - these are the optimal conditions for the successful development of plants. Moisten the ground periodically throughout the winter.
From the end of February, chrysanthemum is planted in and watered more often. By the end of March, the shoots will grow back, and it will be possible to do cuttings - cut the shoots no more than 10 cm.
Carefully plant the cuttings in a box filled with a mixture of earth, sand and humus in a 1: 2: 1 ratio, close tightly with glass. After a month, the cuttings will take root, they can be planted in wide containers. As soon as the danger of an unexpected cold snap passes, the mother plant and seedlings can be transplanted into the ground.
Chrysanthemum care
The watering regime should be moderate, in which the root system will not rot from excess moisture. This despite the fact that chrysanthemum is quite hygrophilous. The exception is the dry period (during it, water more abundantly so that the stems do not become rusty and the flowers do not lose their decorative effect) and the period before flowering. It is better to take water from standing or rainwater.
Once a week, "feed" the flowers with mullein infusion (1:10), and before budding - and for lush flowering, sometimes to build up green mass. Discard top dressing before flowering. During dressing, make sure that the fertilizer solution does not fall on the leaves and cause burns. Water only at the root.
For the development of young chrysanthemums, it is extremely important to ensure a balanced diet in the first 2 months, as the green mass is growing very actively. Burnt-out mullein and are very effective. The main rule is to under-feed the plant rather than burn it.
Despite the fact that chrysanthemums tolerate the cold quite well, at the end of October, protect the flower bed from frost by placing a frame with plastic wrap on it - and you will admire the flowering of April cuttings for another month. You will remove the frame at the end of November, transplant the bushes into pots, and they will bloom on a warm, bright veranda even in January.
If you have recently been presented with a potted chrysanthemum, you can find out how to keep it until spring and planting it in the garden from the answer to the question. And the article is confirmation that the flower you like can be propagated by cuttings, even if you do not know the exact date of cutting.
Disease and pest control
Water-loving chrysanthemum abundant watering, especially in the absence of rain, helps prevent damage and that cannot tolerate moisture.Many harmful microorganisms and pathogens live in the soil, so after each rain, treat the plants with drugs for diseases (for example, "Quadris" or "Previkur"). It will protect you from root rot, it can be added to irrigation water with each feeding.
Of all the enemies of chrysanthemums (leaf rollers, aphids, ticks, etc.) are the most dangerous. Only one of them can eat several buds per night. So keep your ears open, review your plantings regularly and take action on time. Good preparations for fighting insects are Aktellik, Ratibor, Iskra, Fitoverm, etc.
Types and varieties of chrysanthemums
The genus of chrysanthemums has more than 150 species, but in our garden they grow mainly their hybrids. The classification of chrysanthemums is quite complex. There are main garden groups of hybrid chrysanthemums:- korean (small-flowered, inflorescence 2-9 cm),
- indian (large-flowered, inflorescence 10-25 cm),
- chinese and Japanese.
- simple,
- semi-double,
- anemone,
- terry,
- flat,
- hemispherical,
- spherical,
- curly,
- pompom,
- radial.
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By the structure of the petal distinguish tubular and reed. For growing in the garden, the most popular chrysanthemums are Korean, they are unpretentious, beautiful, bloom for a long time.
Large-flowered species are usually grown for cutting and flower arrangement. Here are a few popular small-flowered varieties for your garden.
Korean chrysanthemum "Alyonushka"
Bright pink non-double inflorescences 5-6 cm in diameter. Bush up to 50 cm tall. Blooms in September.
Korean chrysanthemum "Alyonushka"
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are heat-loving plants. They are successfully grown in southern countries. The large-flowered festival is held annually in Japan. In Russia, these flowers are not very common due to the cold climate. Another reason is the complex growing technology. Gardeners buy seedlings of large-flowered chrysanthemums, plant them, and the seedlings give powerful green shoots, and the plants do not have the strength to bloom. In early May, it is necessary to remove all young growth so that the chrysanthemum can consume nutrients for the formation of buds. Oddly enough, the first bud needs to be cut, thus, you activate the chrysanthemum's defense mechanism, and it will begin to direct nutrients to the rest of the buds. You need to select the largest one, and delete the rest.
Chrysanthemum storage
Due to the cold climate, chrysanthemum may not bloom until frost. In this case, the bush must be dug up and transplanted into a pot. To delay the flowering of the chrysanthemum, in the room where the flower is stored, a temperature of 5 ° C should be maintained. At this temperature, the bud will not freeze, but will not bloom either.
During storage in the cellar, it is absolutely impossible to water the chrysanthemum. If you are afraid that the plant will dry out, put some snow on the soil. In a cool room, it will gradually begin to melt and will moisten the soil, the chrysanthemum bush will not rot.
After the end of the frost, next spring, the chrysanthemum is transplanted from the pot to its original place. Previously, magnesium-containing and are introduced into the soil. Chrysanthemums are treated with insecticides during the flowering period.
Why doesn't the large-flowered chrysanthemum bloom?
After three years of age, chrysanthemums bloom worse. There is no clear explanation for this.
Some botanists say that the chrysanthemum bush ages quickly. Toxins accumulate in its roots, and the root system can no longer provide a large ground part with sufficient nutrients.
Others believe that the chrysanthemum secretes natural poisons that prevent other plants from growing near it. However, she herself suffers from an overabundance of these toxic substances. Therefore, she starts up new basal shoots and, thus, moves to a new place. The plant spends a lot of energy on moving, and the chrysanthemum does not have the strength to bloom abundantly.
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are popular with gardeners. These attractive plants look spectacular both in a flower bed and in a bouquet. Moreover, they flourish at a time when all other cultures are already withering. From this material you will learn how to grow and propagate flowers, the nuances of caring for them.
A bit of history
Large-flowered chrysanthemums, photos of which are given in the material, are herbaceous perennials and belong to the Astrovye family, or Compositae. Translated from Greek, their name means "sun flower". This name comes from the golden hue of the petals inherent in most plant varieties.
China is considered the birthplace of chrysanthemums. According to legend, 2.5 thousand years ago, this flower was bred by a local breeder and named it Chu hua, which means "gathered together." Now there are 29 species of this genus, and they are common in all northern and temperate zones of the globe.
But most of all chrysanthemums are grown in Japan. It was brought here by Buddhist monks back in the 4th century. And here the flower is considered a symbol of the country, it is even depicted on the emblem of the imperial seal. Indeed, in ancient times, only truly influential people could decorate themselves with chrysanthemum buds.
Flowers came to Europe only in the 18th century. And since then they have become favorites of gardeners.
Botanical description
Large-flowered chrysanthemum is a perennial shrub with a powerful branched rhizome. The culture reaches up to a meter in height. Branching long shoots of a plant are pubescent or bare. Flower leaves, painted in light or dark green tones, are simple, alternately located. But depending on the variety, they differ in shape and size.
Small chrysanthemum flowers are collected in a large basket, reaching up to 20 cm in diameter. The buds are simple or double. The most common are Indian, Chinese and Japanese large-flowered chrysanthemums. Such flowers are distinguished by massive bud heads, unpretentious nature and a variety of shades. Below you will see some of the attractive varieties.
The best varieties
Breeders have bred many varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums. The following varieties are especially popular:
- Gazelle. The variety is appreciated by gardeners for its large heads reaching 14 cm in diameter. Terry buds are painted in snow-white color. They bloom at the end of August and please with an attractive appearance until frost. Tall shrubs need a garter or support.
- Valentina Tereshkova. The variety was bred by Crimean breeders. Differs in an unpretentious character and a large head of buds, reaching 13-14 cm in diameter. The upper petals of the flower are painted in red-crimson tones, the lower ones have a lighter, pink shade. The plant grows up to 60-70 cm in height. Blooms in early September.
- Alec Bedser. This type of chrysanthemum reaches 70 cm in height. The buds are hemispherical and 14 cm in diameter are painted in a rich yellow color. Moreover, the inner petals are darker than the outer ones.
- Diplomat. A variety developed by English breeders. Flat terry buds reach 15 cm in diameter. The petals are painted in wine red and purple tones. The plant reaches a meter in height and needs support. Each bush forms 3-4 buds.
Each of these varieties will be a decoration of the infield. And if you want to create a truly attractive flower garden, then plant a mixture of large-flowered chrysanthemum colors. There are several varieties of crops in these seed sets. And thanks to this assortment, a real riot of colors is created. To cultivate such beauty, it will take some effort and create comfortable conditions for the cultures.
Growing from seeds
If you have managed to purchase large-flowered potted chrysanthemums, then all you need to do is plant flowers in mid-May in the open ground. And then, by the fall, they will delight with large buds. Unfortunately, these plants are not easy to get. Therefore, many gardeners grow flowers from seeds. Next, you will learn how to do this.
Start the event in mid-January. To grow flowers, take a store-bought soil or prepare the substrate yourself from greenhouse soil, peat and humus, mixed in equal parts. Before planting, it is imperative to disinfect the soil. To do this, bake it in the oven or hold it over steam.
It is better to grow a mixture of large-flowered chrysanthemums in containers. Sowing process:
- At the bottom of the container, lay a drainage layer of broken bricks or expanded clay.
- Add the substrate, spread the large-flowered chrysanthemum seeds and lightly press them into the soil.
- Spray the planting with warm water from a spray bottle, then cover the container with glass or plastic.
- Place the greenhouse in a room with a temperature of + 23 ... + 25 ° C.
- Ventilate crops regularly and spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle.
The first shoots will appear in 10-14 days. As soon as this happens, move the greenhouse to a lighted area and start hardening the seedlings. To do this, remove the shelters first for an hour, then for two, and so on.
When 3-4 true leaves appear on the sprouts, transplant them into separate cups, being careful not to damage the roots of the seedlings. Grow the dived seedlings of large-flowered chrysanthemums in a room with a temperature of + 16 ... + 18 ° C. Do not forget to water the plants regularly, as well as feed them with complex fertilizers twice a month. If there is not enough light in the room, then arrange additional lighting with photo lamps.
Landing in open ground
Plant seedlings in open ground when the risk of night frost disappears, that is, in mid or late May. To grow large-flowered chrysanthemums, choose a lighted area on a hill, but at the same time, the place should be closed from the wind. Plants prefer neutral or slightly acidic fertile loams. If you have clay or sandy soil, then before planting, add humus or humus to the soil along with complex fertilizers.
Start planting on a cloudy, or even better rainy day. If the weather is not good, hold the event early in the morning. How to plant flowers:
- Dig a 45 x 50 cm trench.
- Set the flowers into the grooves along with the earthy ball. Keep a distance between seedlings.
- Fill the voids with soil, lightly compact the top layer and moisturize the planting. It is advisable to water the flowerbed with Kornevin solution at the rate of 1 g per liter of water.
- Pinch the plants immediately after planting, that is, remove the top growth point.
- Cover the seedlings with lutrasil.
Remove the shelter when the plants take root and grow.
Flower care
Growing large-flowered chrysanthemums will not cause much trouble. However, there are a few rules to follow in order to get beautiful flower hats. First of all, when the plants are strong enough, you need to remove the side shoots, leaving only strong branches. Most varieties need additional support, because the shoots cannot support the weight of large heads. Therefore, tie the plants to stakes or stretch a wire mesh next to them. Otherwise, flower care consists of regular watering, periodic feeding and preparation for the winter period.
Watering
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are moisture-loving plants. And they need regular and abundant watering. The slightest lack of moisture will lead to a deterioration in the decorativeness of flowers. Therefore, moisten the bushes 2-3 times a week, as soon as the topsoil dries. Use rainwater or settled water for irrigation. Irrigate the bushes strictly at the root, avoiding moisture on the leaves.
When the water is absorbed, be sure to loosen the soil. Otherwise, a crust forms on it, blocking the access of air to the roots. And this will have a bad effect on the beauty of flowers. Remove weeds during the event. To reduce the maintenance of the crop and avoid weeding and loosening, mulch the area with a layer of peat, fallen leaves or humus.
Top dressing
Large-flowered chrysanthemums respond very gratefully to fertilizers. And it is advisable to feed crops at least three times per season. Fertilize the bushes with ammonia nitrogen for the first time at the beginning of active growth, approximately 6-8 weeks after planting. This will help the crops grow green.
After 2-3 weeks, feed the flowers with organic fertilizers, such as burnt mullein or bird droppings. But be careful with these substances, because they cause burns to the roots. Therefore, do not exceed the dose.
Feed the bushes one last time during budding. Apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers this time. This stimulates intense flowering of chrysanthemums.
Apply all dressings exclusively in liquid form. Water the plants with them strictly at the root the next day after rain or watering.
Wintering
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are thermophilic plants. And they won't survive the winter outdoors, even under good cover. Therefore, with the onset of cold weather, dig up the mother bushes, cut off all the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm, place them in a wooden box along with an earthen lump. Store flowers in a cellar at 0 ... + 4 ° C and 80% humidity.
Water the soil occasionally to keep it slightly damp. Inspect the bushes regularly, and if you notice signs of mold, then immediately cut out the damaged branches, otherwise the whole flower will die.
In late February or early March, move the bushes to a warmer and brighter room. Give them regular watering. And when they "come to life" and start growing, you can carry out cuttings of flowers.
If you have no desire to propagate crops, then simply plant the mother bush in its usual place as soon as the weather is warm. But keep in mind that every three years you need to change the area for the flower garden. Otherwise, the plants will start to be capricious and hurt, which will affect their decorativeness not for the better.
Propagation by cuttings
Start a similar method of growing flowers in late spring - early summer, when the temperature outside reaches + 21 ... + 26 ° C. Use a sharp, disinfected knife to cut the large-flowered chrysanthemum cuttings. When doing this, choose shoots that grow directly from the root of the plant. Cut the cut 2-3 mm above the leaf with the bud. The length of the cutting should be 6-7 cm. How to root the branches:
- Fill a container with nutrient-rich soil and cover it with a 2-cm layer of sand.
- Treat the bottom cut with a growth promoter and stick the cutting at an angle of 35-45 ° into the substrate. When doing this, make sure that the plant is in the sand and does not touch the soil.
- Place the container on a light-colored windowsill.
Maintain the temperature near the planting within + 15 ... + 18 ° C. Do not forget to regularly moisturize the substrate without letting it dry out. After 2-3 weeks, when the cuttings take root, transplant them into open ground and then provide the plants with normal care.
Diseases
Large-flowered chrysanthemums are endowed with strong immunity. But if you take care of them incorrectly, then the plants can get sick:
- Powdery mildew. The disease affects buds, leaves, shoots. It appears with a white bloom.
- Verticillary wilting. The disease affects the root system. As a result, the stems of the culture die off, and the leaves turn yellow and wither.
- Rust. It is manifested by the appearance of gray spots, which turn brown as the disease progresses. It affects all ground parts of the plant.
- Gray rot. The disease is recognized by blurry brown spots, which eventually become covered with a gray fluffy coating. In the future, the plant rots and dies.
If you find signs of any disease, then immediately start treatment. Bordeaux liquid will help get rid of gray rot and rust. To cure rust or use colloidal sulfur or copper-soap emulsion.
Pests
Slugs and snails are no less dangerous for flowers. They devour the leaves, stems and buds of plants. To prevent their appearance, sprinkle crushed eggshells near the bushes. If snails and slugs have already appeared, then they will have to be removed by hand.
Attractive large-flowered chrysanthemums will decorate the flower bed and fit into any landscape. Of course, in order to grow these crops in your backyard, you will need to pay some attention to the flowers. But your efforts will not be in vain, and the result will exceed all expectations.
Chrysanthemums: planting, care
- Planting chrysanthemums
- Reproduction of chrysanthemums
- Chrysanthemum formation
- Chrysanthemum care
- Chrysanthemum wintering
- Agrochemicals, fertilizers
Chrysanthemums: planting, leaving. In this article, I will talk about planting chrysanthemums and then caring for them. Because, after buying cuttings, many people ask me the same questions - what to do with them next, how to plant them, whether it is necessary to pinch them, how do they winter?…. I decided to write this article giving the answer to everything. But first I want to make a small lyrical digression) and walk a little through the legend.
Chrysanthemums are always at the peak of their popularity. They are given to loved ones for birthdays, on March 8, just like that ... This is a flower for a man and a woman, for the older generation and for young and small children. This flower is always appropriate. Golden autumn flower or golden autumn flower, how many poems, how many songs ... They want to admire constantly, inhale a bitter aroma ...
The place of origin of these flowers still no one can say for sure, but most scientists believe that chrysanthemums originated in the East. Traces lead to China, where already three thousand years ago chrysanthemums were known and appreciated by the Chinese emperors.
One day a wicked Chinese emperor fell seriously ill. From time to time, foreign guests came to him and told a wonderful story about a flower that heals ailments and prolongs youth. This story haunted the emperor and one day he decided to get that flower, but he could only pick it with a pure and kind soul.
The search for the "flower of youth" was entrusted to young men and women, virgin and pure as the morning dew. They set off across the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. Everyone had a basket with them, in which there were chrysanthemums. While traveling, they were caught in a violent storm that threw their boat onto a rocky island. When they realized that they could not go back, they planted chrysanthemums and stayed on the island. Over the years, the descendants of these boys and girls settled in the rocky archipelago that is now known as Japan. Here is such a legend about the appearance of either Japan or chrysanthemums in Japan.
Chrysanthemum agrotechnics:
Seat selection, landing:
Chrysanthemum cuttings are planted in open ground when the threat has passed
freezing. Choose a sunny place without shading
, otherwise the bush will be loose and may stretch out.
Plants need
plant at a distance of 70-90 cm when planting early, and
60-70 cm in June planting for multiflora, other types of chrysanthemums are planted on average 40-70 cm, depending on how you will form the plants and what effect you want to achieve.
If you want to plant chrysanthemum multiflora (spherical) immediately in a pot, then to get a ball with a diameter of 40-60 cm, it needs a pot with a diameter of 17-21 cm.For a large-flowered potted chrysanthemum, you need a pot of 2-4 liters, the larger the pot, the more nutrition, accordingly there will be more peduncles. After each watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil - this is the rule for all plants.
Planting dates for chrysanthemums are from May to August. Planting dates affect the size of the bush, chrysanthemums will bloom in the year of planting, they have time to gain weight and bloom in one season.
In short autumn days, chrysanthemum has time to grow quickly and gain vegetative mass. Chrysanthemum varieties that bloom from August to October are called early ones. Medium varieties of chrysanthemums bloom in October and November, and late varieties in November-December.
The optimum temperature for the normal development of chrysanthemums is 16-25 degrees.
Chrysanthemum framing:
Chrysanthemums multiflora are genetically ball-shaped
Forming is not required for chrysanthemum multiflora,
since it genetically grows in a ball,
but for a denser ball and more
flowers make 1-3 nips, the first immediately after
landing in the ground, the second after an increase of 7-8 cm,
so is the last one, you can do more
pinch if you don't like something about the shape of your
ball. Korean chrysanthemums are pinched 1-3 times, just like multiflora.
Large-flowered potted chrysanthemums are pinched 1-2 times, immediately after planting in the ground and, if necessary, after 3-4 pairs of leaves, but usually one pinch is enough.
Chrysanthemum large-flowered Viena white.
Large-flowered cut chrysanthemums (Indian) form in 1-2, rarely in 3 trunks, the smaller the number of trunks, the larger the flower. When growing large-flowered chrysanthemums in 1-2 trunks, the first pinch when they grow 15 cm, the second time when they reach a height of 25 cm. All lateral shoots and buds must be carefully plucked out, leaving only the central bud. Buds and shoots are not formed at the same time, so you need to check the bushes for their presence often in order to remove them in time.
Chrysanthemum branch Danz Parpl.
Also large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums can be grown as branch chrysanthemums. To do this, they are pinched at a height of 10 cm, then at a height of 20-25 cm, while leaving all the lateral shoots, the number of buds can be adjusted at will.
Chrysanthemum care:
Chrysanthemums as indoor culture
Low-growing varieties - multiflora and potted large and medium-flowered varieties are suitable for growing indoors and on balconies. Home chrysanthemums, ideally, should be kept on windows of a western or eastern orientation. The southern windows are too hot for them, direct sunlight provokes rapid fading. On the northern windows, the buds may not open at all. Alternatively, the chrysanthemum at home can be placed on a ventilated cool balcony with good illumination.
Chrysanthemum is a plant of short daylight hours. Flowering begins when daylight hours are reduced to 8-10 hours. And this happens in the fall. At the same time, the coolness necessary for the disclosure of the flowers of chrysanthemums appears. Similar conditions can occur in early spring, in March-April. If at this time you put your home chrysanthemum on a cool balcony, then spring blooming is possible.
Some amateur flower growers provoke the flowering of their chrysanthemums, artificially reducing daylight hours. To do this, after 8-10 required hours, the plant is covered with an impenetrable cap, for example, made of cardboard. Optimum temperatures for growing chrysanthemums: in summer - 20-23 °, in autumn - 15-18 °, in winter - 3-8 °. These temperatures are ideal. If they are observed, the chrysanthemum gains a large number of buds and blooms for a long time. However, nothing bad will happen if you deviate from the recommended parameters. A potted chrysanthemum will survive a hot summer normally if you put it in a ventilated, shaded place from the midday rays. She will also tolerate short-term frosts down to -3 °.
Chrysanthemum wintering
In the northern regions, Korean chrysanthemums overwinter in the open field (OG) where they grew. Multiflora can overwinter under cover in the exhaust gas, but still it is risky, it is better to transfer it for the winter to the basement, cellar, greenhouse, veranda, where you can control the condition of the bush. Indian and large-flowered potted plants winter only in a room with a temperature of -2 + 8. We had cases when bushes in bags and pots completely froze in severe frosts and after thawing remained alive and not harmful, the temperature there dropped to -10C. In general, chrysanthemums are more afraid of getting wet, so do not overdo it with watering in winter, the ground in which chrysanthemums are stored should be slightly damp.
If in the fall
bring a flowering bush into the house, then it will be half winter
to delight you with its flowering and pleasant bitter
aroma, while improving your microclimate.
At the same time, it is advisable to put the plant in the brightest and coolest place, but even on a table in a warm room, it blooms for a long time and pleases.
In our region (Rostov region is considered a zone of risky farming) in winter the weather is very unstable - at first frost of -15C can hit the bare ground and only after a few days 5-15 cm of snow will fall, frosts reach -30C, very often thaws alternate with frosts and even with such a winter you can
leave plants
in the ground under the air dry shelter - like grapes. In our garden, a large-flowered variety and various varieties of multiflora have been wintering just without any shelter for several years now. Korean chrysanthemums winter outdoors in all regions of Russia.
Our way of storing chrysanthemums - after the flowers are damaged by resistant
frost, the whole bush breaks out into
a height of 10 cm from the ground - this is so that in the thaw there is
chrysanthemum root and sprout under this cap. Above slightly
sprinkle with dry leaves, top with a mesh box and
on
a piece of slate or a wide board. With such a shelter, the bush is covered and ventilated. As soon as spring
snow
melts, the thaw begins - the leaves are removed so as not
sprouted sprouts.
We also place chrysanthemums dug from the ground very tightly in a mesh box, while we do not shake off the earth from the bushes. If there is no room in the room, we leave the boxes on the street, put them tightly to each other and cover them in 3-4 layers with the densest agrofibre, in the thaw it is necessary to check the boxes so that they do not dry out - this method is only suitable for multiflora.
From diseases and pests:
OT aphids, whiteflies — preparations of Aktar, Fitoverm, Iskra, IntaVir.
From the spider mite — preparations of Aktar, Fitoverm, Anti-tick.
OT rot - preparation "Maxim", weak solution
manganese, Abiga Peak, Bordeaux mixture, any
copper-containing drug, Topsin.
Fertilizers - Ammonium nitrate, Urea, Universal, Fertika, Plantofol, Megafol.
Antistress — Epon, Zircon, Megafol, etc.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums reproduce by dividing the bush and green cuttings. In early spring, the bush is dug up and the root shoots are carefully separated with a knife. Planted immediately to a permanent place. When propagating by cuttings, all root shoots are grown and cut off cuttings at an angle of 45 degrees, 7-12 cm long with a sharp knife, dipped in a rooting agent and buried 2 cm in a mixture of peat and sand, placed in a greenhouse and after 3-4 weeks, depending on temperature and humidity, you will have a small plant with a well-developed root system, it remains to be hardened and can be planted in a flower bed, in a pot.
