Is it possible to plant small chrysanthemum cuttings. Cutting chrysanthemums is the best breeding method. The process of reproduction of chrysanthemum cuttings in autumn and spring

Cutting is one of the most effective ways to breed garden chrysanthemums. The main advantage of the method is that in this way it is possible to obtain planting material even from rare spherical, large flowers taken from a bouquet. Varietal characteristics are preserved in 100% of cases, which cannot be said about sowing seeds. Learn how to properly propagate garden or bouquet chrysanthemums by cuttings at home, how to select and cut a flower.

All varieties of a flower are propagated in several ways: by seeds, dividing the bush, layering and cuttings. All the options are quite simple, knowing a few nuances, even those who have never encountered the cultivation of this flower can cope with them. Amateur gardeners, for certain reasons, prefer vegetative propagation of chrysanthemums, in order to understand why, we will analyze each method.

Seed propagation

If you want from self-collected seeds, be prepared for the fact that the plant most likely will not show the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. Seed material purchased from a trusted company will give varietal offspring, but some of the seeds may not hatch. You shouldn't buy seeds from open containers in spontaneous markets. How to sow seeds outdoors:

• do a shallow digging of the area allocated for chrysanthemums;
• dig small holes (up to 5 cm deep) at a distance of 30 cm from each other;
• pour each hole with warm water and put 3-5 grains in it;
• sprinkle the seeds with earth and make a small greenhouse over the crops. You can insert several pegs around the perimeter and stretch transparent polyethylene;
• as soon as the first shoots appear, remove the shelter;
• periodically loosen the soil and remove weeds;
• 10 days after spitting seeds, carry out the first top dressing, flower growers use universal fertilizers such as Rainbow;
• when the seedlings grow to 8–9 cm in each hole, leave 1 or 2 of the strongest shoots, transplant the rest to another place or share the planting material with your neighbors.

On a note!

Seed propagation of chrysanthemums is in demand only among breeders; amateur flower growers use it extremely rarely. The option is less reliable than vegetative methods.

It is desirable to propagate by seeds only small-flowered and annual varieties of chrysanthemums. With early spring sowing in open ground, the bushes will bloom no earlier than mid-autumn, so that the buds open in the summer, planting through seedlings should be carried out. The procedure is carried out from mid-February to early March. How to germinate chrysanthemum seeds at home:

• put a drainage layer on the bottom of a wide, shallow container, pour a special soil mixture for chrysanthemums into the container;
• spread the seeds on the soil surface in any order, but do not overdo it with the number of grains. If the varieties are annual, sprinkle them a little with earth, and if they are perennial, lightly press them into the soil;
• spray the crops with warm water from a spray bottle, cover the container with plastic or glass. Remove the shelter periodically for ventilation;
• the first shoots will appear in about 10 days, transfer the containers to the lightest windowsill and gradually begin to harden the seedlings. First open the window for an hour, gradually increase the time;
• thin out the shoots at the stage of formation of 3 or 4 leaves. Before planting in open ground, water the seedlings abundantly with water.

Watering at all stages of seedling development should be carried out regularly, but in moderation. Avoid waterlogging and drying out of the soil, use only warm, settled water. The temperature in the room with seedlings before hardening should be around + 22-26 degrees. Top dressing with Zircon will help speed up the rooting process of chrysanthemums after a pick. When using fertilizer, the temperature in the room is lowered to + 15-19 degrees. Transplanting flower seedlings to a permanent place is carried out after the last spring frosts.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

It is recommended to plant a chrysanthemum growing in one place for more than 3 years. Dig up the entire bush carefully, it is important not to damage the root. Cut old lignified shoots with a sharp garden knife or pruning shears, separate the young branches from the mother bush along with the roots. If there are long branches on the stems, it is best to carefully cut them off. Plant each plot at a distance of 30–35 cm from each other. The procedure is carried out in late spring or in the second half of August.

Reproduction by layering

The method is suitable for indoor, as well as for garden winter-hardy varieties of chrysanthemum. Dig a small, oblong hole near the mother plant, the width and depth of the hole should correspond to the size of the bush. Gently bend the flower stems and fix with pegs or staples at the bottom of the prepared hole, cover with a layer (about 25 cm) of earth, leave the bush in this form for the winter.

On a note!

On the forums, it is often advised to cover an area with buried chrysanthemum bushes, especially in cool regions. This procedure makes sense only in the case of the most thermophilic varieties.

In the spring, after the plant wakes up, new, already rooted shoots will hatch from the buds. When the return frosts have passed, dig up the mother bush and separate each stalk together with the root, transplant to a new place. Do not throw out layers with a poorly developed root system, transplant them, like the rest, with proper care, they will quickly catch up with stronger shoots in growth.

Propagation by cuttings

The rarest and most valuable varieties are best propagated by cuttings. The Korean variety of a flower, when breeding by division, may not take root well in a new place. Cuttings of this variety root well, retain their specific features, and quickly adapt after planting. Flowers grown from green, not lignified cuttings are resistant to low temperatures and diseases, are distinguished by a lush crown and rich flowering.

Gardeners divide seasonal cuttings into 2 types: early and late. The first ones are prepared in autumn, germination is carried out in winter (from January to the end of February). These cuttings take root for 30 days. The latter are cut in April or May and take root in 7 or 14 days. Experts advise to start harvesting cuttings in late autumn, or at the beginning of winter (in warm regions) when the first frosts catch the soil. Features of autumn cuttings:

• small-flowered varieties take root earlier than large-flowered varieties;
• thick, fleshy shoots do not take root well;
• flowers of the same variety, when rooting early and late cuttings, will bloom at the same time;
• the period of cuttings has a strong effect only on the habitus of the bush; taller shoots grow from early cuttings.

Some gardeners cut flower cuttings in the first half of autumn, when the bushes are just beginning to bloom. This method can be recommended exclusively as an experiment, because not all varieties and hybrids of a flower are ready for reproduction by this time. Bushes grown from cuttings can bloom in spring or autumn, in rare cases the next year after planting in open ground, much depends on the variety and germination conditions.

When and how to carry out cuttings

One method of grafting involves the advance preparation of the mother bush, from which it will be possible to obtain planting material in the spring. Cultivars with large buds give from 8 to 15 cuttings, and small-flowered chrysanthemum bushes - 20 or 30. The second option consists in multiple pruning of non-lignified stems from late spring to early autumn.

Preparation and storage of the mother bush

In late autumn (before the onset of persistent frosts), cut off all the stems of the selected mother bush, leave stumps about 5 cm. After 10-15 days after cutting, dig out the bush and place it together with a lump of earth into a container of suitable size. Fill exposed roots, as well as possible voids, with soil or sand. Move the container to a dark, cool place.

Attention!

In advance, make holes at the bottom of the container for the mother liquor and lay a drainage layer from 2 to 5 cm, you can use vermiculite, broken stone or expanded clay.

If you move the mother plant to a greenhouse or any other warm room, the first stems will appear in a couple of weeks. If you want to keep the mother liquor until spring, transfer it to a basement or cellar; in a city apartment, any dark place where the temperature does not rise above +7 degrees will do. If the temperature regime is not observed, the kidneys will hatch ahead of schedule.

If the chrysanthemum bush is stored in a damp basement, frequent watering is not necessary. Moderate moisture is permissible only when the earth dries out, overflow will lead to root rot. To start cuttings in March, the mother plant is transferred to a warm place in mid-February, watered abundantly, young shoots will hatch in 5-10 days. How to cut and root cuttings:

• when the shoots grow 8–10 cm, cut them so that hemp with two pairs of leaves remain on the mother liquor. Thus, there will be a basis for the emergence of new stems;
• small cuttings are best left on the bush, they are prone to decay, choose the strongest specimens;
• from cut stems, 2 lower leaves are cut off (the buds are left);
• cuttings are planted one by one, in pairs or 3 in separate containers with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 to 1.8 cm;
• in the case when a wide container is selected for planting, the cuttings are placed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

If desired, the tip of the shoots can be dipped into Kornevin, however, the practice of those who have long been engaged in the reproduction of chrysanthemums shows that they root perfectly without additional stimulation. In autumn cuttings, the shoots should not be cut off from the mother plant, but carefully separated together with the roots, such a procedure will guarantee 100% survival of the cuttings.

To prevent the cuttings from drying out, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions for them. Cover small pots with transparent plastic cups, cover the bulk container with polyethylene so that the leaves and stems do not touch the covering material. The rooting process can take from 2 to 3 weeks, the buds wake up within 3–4 days after planting the cuttings.

Cutting blooming chrysanthemums

The procedure can be carried out throughout the growing season, the process is very similar to the cultivation of roses, hydrangeas and other garden flowers. The easiest option is to cut any branch and bury it in the garden, but such experiments do not always end well. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for propagating chrysanthemums by cutting flowering shoots in the fall:

• cut the stems into cuttings 11–16 cm in length, leaving those that were closer to the root;
• cut off the 2 bottom sheets;
• put the obtained stems in a jar or glass made of transparent glass, pour in settled water (fill no more than 3 cm of the container);
• add a small amount of a drug that stimulates root formation to the water - Kornevin, Ribav E, Heteroaxin, Kornerost or any other;
• put the cuttings on the windowsill, shade a little from direct sunlight.

Attention!

In the process of rooting the stems, water must be topped up as it evaporates; there is no need to completely change the liquid.

The cuttings will give roots in 30–40 days, while young shoots will begin to grow. It is undesirable to leave them in the water, part of the planting material may die before spring, and only single stems will acquire powerful roots. It is better to transplant the cuttings into a separate container with soil. The use of shoots that are too thin, as well as an opaque container, will lead to the fact that the rooting process will take much longer.

Cover the transplanted cuttings with plastic cups or plastic bags, periodically moisten the soil. You can shoot a kind of greenhouse when the stems are completely rooted in the ground and start growing. As soon as the temperature on the street is above +5 degrees, you can start hardening the seedlings, take them out to the balcony or open the window first for 15 minutes, gradually increase the time.

Reproduction of bouquet chrysanthemums

The flower is usually cut in October-November, but is it possible to carry out the procedure at any other time of the year if you were presented with a bouquet of gorgeous chrysanthemums of a rare, incredibly beautiful variety? It is possible, because cuttings from bouquet flowers not only root well, but also repeat varietal characteristics. Of course, you can search for your favorite variety in catalogs, order seeds or seedlings. The search will take time and financial costs, but why, if the planting material is already at hand.

How to choose a flower and what to do with it

If your bouquet has small stems, use them first. Cuttings from such shoots root faster and grow well. In the case when there are no such flowers, take any, but prepare as many cuttings as possible, this will increase the likelihood of obtaining planting material. It is not necessary to cut fresh stems, on the contrary, it is better to wait until the flowers begin to wilt. You can not take shoots with obvious traces of disease, there is a risk that they will not take root, and indoor plants can pick up the disease.

All inflorescences, as well as the bottom of the cutting (about 4 cm) must be cut off. Remove all leaves and lateral branches from the remaining stem, cut not directly at the stem, leave small stumps. Put the stalk in settled or boiled water, add a little root stimulant and a tablet of activated carbon, it will kill microorganisms that provoke the development of various putrefactive processes.

The roots will hatch in about 3-4 weeks, if they have not appeared, and the cutting has begun to rot, cut the bottom of the stem to healthy tissue, thoroughly rinse the glass, replace the water and add activated charcoal again. As soon as the roots appear, the chrysanthemum must be immediately transplanted into a pot of soil. Do not worry if the stem begins to dry out, this is not a sign of spoilage.

Preparation of containers and soil

For only rooted cuttings, you should choose small pots, they may not be deep, but always wide. In such a container, the chrysanthemum root will occupy a new area gradually, there will be no accumulation of excess moisture in unaffected areas of the soil, which means that the risk of decay or the appearance of pests will be minimized. It is necessary to transplant a flower into a large flowerpot when it grows well.

Attention!

When planting cuttings, do not use garden or vegetable garden soil, it can contain larvae of pests and infections.

Chrysanthemums prefer loose, nutritious soil, poor, dense or heavy soil is not suitable for them. If you do not have the opportunity to purchase special soil for chrysanthemums, prepare it yourself. Mix commercially available potting, gardening and gardening soil with perlite, sand, and coconut fiber. Adjust the amount of ingredients to your liking for a light and loose mixture.

Planting and caring for a rooted chrysanthemum

Plant the cuttings very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Pour the soil into the prepared container to half the volume, moisten a little, place a twig in the middle and cover it with earth a little. Slightly apply soil and water again with a little water. At first, it is better not to touch the chrysanthemum, cover the stalk with a jar or plastic, periodically moisten the ground.

After a month, the seedlings can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers (a tablespoon of dry raw materials per 10 liters of water), they activate growth. The lightest window sill should be allocated to the young bush, in the spring the seedling should be shaded from the sun's rays. When the cutting takes root and actively grows, pinch the top a little, the plant will start up side shoots, after 2 months, re-prune. At first, the chrysanthemum needs light even in winter, after planting in open ground, the flower adapts and begins to move into a dormant stage.

Chrysanthemum breeding methods

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, or by dividing a bush. Amateur flower growers are more likely to use vegetative methods.

Adult chrysanthemum bushes grow strongly and need to be divided every 2-3 years.
in early spring - the easiest and most effective breeding method for hobby gardeners and those who sell plants.

The method is widely practiced in late winter and early spring, when flower growers root cuttings of young shoots at home. It is also possible in the spring and summer.

I cut chrysanthemums in the fall. I also cut chrysanthemums. I do this in late autumn - at the end of October and early November, when frost is already holding the garden land.

Autumn cuttings of chrysanthemums

From flowering chrysanthemums I cut cuttings 10-15 cm long. Just like either or other plants.

I put the chopped cuttings of chrysanthemums in a container of water. I pour a little water, only 2-3 cm, and be sure to add it to it. Recently I have been using E.
As the water evaporates, I just add it to the container, and do not completely change the water.
Soon, roots begin to form in the cuttings (see in the title photo - stem cuttings of chrysanthemum with rudiments of roots and shoots).

For a month and a half, a chrysanthemum stalk usually gives roots. And during this time, not only roots are formed, but also a new shoot.

My experiments with rooting chrysanthemum cuttings

In past years, I tried to leave some of my rooted cuttings in water until spring. At the same time, some of the plants died, and the rest of the chrysanthemum cuttings gave powerful roots. And until transplanting into the ground, the rooted cuttings were in the water.

I tried to root chrysanthemum cuttings both in a dark plastic container and in a glass one. I noticed that the plants rooted faster in the glass container.

The thinner the stalk of the chrysanthemum was, the longer it took to take root (or not at all).

The lower the chrysanthemum stalk was cut to the root of the plant, the faster it gave roots.

Some of the cuttings of chrysanthemums with developed roots were planted in the ground, and some of the rooted cuttings of chrysanthemums were left in the water. I planted them in the ground with longer and more numerous roots later.

I put the container with the planted cuttings in a mini-greenhouse, placing it under the bag. Over time, I remove the bag when the plants take root in the substrate and start growing ..

This is how my rooted chrysanthemum cuttings look now (in early April 2016).
As soon as in the spring the temperature on the balcony sets higher than +5 degrees, I take out young plants there for a walk.

Chrysanthemums that have grown from rooted cuttings bloom early. Young chrysanthemum bushes grow rapidly.

Perhaps my experience with autumn cuttings of my favorite chrysanthemums will be of interest to other growers. I would be glad if someone tries to grow it from a cutting in this way and successfully preserves the chrysanthemum they like.

Valentina Odinokova (Moscow - Tver region)

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When growing chrysanthemums from seeds, the loss of their varietal characteristics is often noted. The most reliable way to reproduce valuable varieties in large quantities is cuttings. This method is a type of vegetative propagation. The Korean chrysanthemum, popular in recent years, is sometimes propagated by dividing the bush. Moreover, the percentage of its reproduction is quite low. Chrysanthemum cuttings of this species root easily and retain all the specific features of the original plant. Thanks to this method, any interesting variety can be quickly propagated.

"Early" cuttings are those grown in winter (January-February) with short daylight hours. They take root within 1 month. "Late" cuttings, obtained in April-May, develop roots in 1-2 weeks.

Features of the reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings

The rooting of cuttings and the growth of these flowers have certain characteristics:

• small-flowered plants take root much faster than large-flowered ones;
• varieties in which fleshy and thick shoots take root much worse;
• plants of the same variety when grown from "early" and "late" cuttings enter the flowering period almost simultaneously;
• the propagation period strongly affects only the size of the plant (very tall stems grow from the "early" shoots).

How to propagate chrysanthemums by cuttings?

The process of reproduction of chrysanthemums begins with the selection of the best of their kind adult plants, called mother plants.

In autumn, healthy bushes with perfect inflorescences are chosen. They should be free of any signs of disease or pests. At the end of flowering, mother liquors are dropped in greenhouses or transplanted into boxes. Chrysanthemum bushes are left in a cool place, protected from excess moisture. Closed terraces, verandas or light sheds are suitable for storing them. The storage location for mother liquors depends on the level of winter temperature. Ideal conditions for a period of physiological rest is between 3-5 ° C. The basic rule for their successful preservation is that these flowers should not be at temperatures less than 1 ° C.

To obtain young plants with an excellent flowering level, it is necessary to vernalize the mother plants. For this, the plants are kept in rooms with a temperature of 1-4 ° C for 3-4 weeks. The absence of such a procedure often leads to the fact that some varieties of chrysanthemums never bloom.

To obtain good planting material, mother plants are transferred to a warm, lighted room and watered regularly. After a few days, renewal buds awaken on their roots. At the same time, root shoots begin to grow from the mother liquor. The effectiveness of cuttings depends entirely on the amount of new growth. To obtain a sufficient number of plants, the mother plants begin to prepare for propagation by cuttings in February. Most often, this procedure is performed in early spring.

For cuttings, only the growth that grows from the root is suitable. That is why any "hemp" representing lignified flower stems should be cut off. Since the development of root shoots is often uneven, with a small number of mother plants, it is problematic to get young growth of the same age. To solve this problem, cut cuttings are stored in moist sawdust in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) for about 2 weeks. When a sufficient number of cuttings are obtained, they begin to root them.

How to cut chrysanthemums?

The root shoots are cut with a sharp knife under the leaf node, when 2-3 internodes are formed on it. The resulting cuttings are planted in boxes or low pots with a fertile substrate with a neutral reaction. It is prepared from fertile soil, humus and sand, taken in a ratio of 2: 1: 0.5. The thickness of the substrate should be 3-4 cm. Calcined sand is poured on top of it. Its layer should be 2-2.5 cm. You can also use a mixture of perlite and coarse sand in a 1: 1 ratio. This substrate has a high moisture capacity and breathability.

For quick rooting of cuttings, they are treated with a solution of a root formation stimulator. To do this, use the drug "Kornevin" or alpha-naphthylacetic acid (NAA).

The cuttings are buried in the substrate to a depth of 2.5-3 cm. The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings is 18-20 ° C. In the room used for rooting cuttings, it is necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate. To do this, a "dome" is made over the container of polyethylene film, which provides the necessary air humidity.

Growing

Caring for cuttings consists in spraying them daily and watering them regularly. Successful rooting is evidenced by the appearance of growth on the shoot. Plants can be fed with nitrogen fertilizer. About 1 month after the start of rooting of the cuttings, the root system develops on them. After it becomes powerful enough, new plants are planted in open ground. This happens most often in May-June.

In the case when the rooted shoots cannot be planted in open ground due to the possibility of frost, they are kept in rooms with an air temperature of 8-10 ° C. In such conditions, the "overgrowth" of the cuttings will be prevented. They are planted in a permanent place only after there is no threat of spring frosts. If it is not planned to root the cuttings immediately after cutting, then they are placed in a container with water.

Cuttings of large-flowered chrysanthemums are carried out from January to April, and small-flowered chrysanthemums - from February to the end of May. Reproduction of chrysanthemums in autumn involves the planting of rooted cuttings in late May and early summer. In this case, the early flowering of a young bush will be the next year.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings - video

Excellent decorative qualities of chrysanthemums and unpretentiousness in care contribute to the widespread use of plants for decorating the local area, as well as residential, office and other premises. These attractive plants can be obtained and propagated in several ways, each of which is good in its own way.

Chrysanthemums are plants of the herbaceous or semi-shrub type. Depending on the variety, the height of chrysanthemums is 20-80 cm. The most varied inflorescence color looks great against the background of dissected, serrated or simple leaves of a light or dark green shade, which are placed on the stems of the plant in the next order.

Currently, more than 100 varieties have been bred, differing from each other in the height of the bush, the structure of the inflorescences, color and flowering times, therefore it will not be difficult to choose a variety that would look great in single compositions or on an alpine hill, and you can propagate your favorite plant by one of the following ways.

Chrysanthemum breeding methods

The choice of a particular breeding method is influenced by the varietal characteristics of the plant.

Seed propagation

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by seeds collected from plants growing in the garden is more suitable for varieties with small inflorescences, since it is rarely possible to preserve the varietal characteristics of complex hybrids represented by large-flowered chrysanthemums.

Seeding time is determined by the time of the beginning of flowering:

• for early flowering - sowing is carried out in late February or early March;
• for late-flowering specimens - the last decade of March until mid-April.

Sowing works are as follows:

• the containers are treated with water with the addition of a small amount of potassium permanganate, so that the water acquires a slightly pinkish tint;
• after drying, the boxes are filled with a mixture of fertile soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 0.5: 1;
• seeds are laid out on top of a well-moistened substrate, which do not need to be sprinkled with soil, since light is required for chrysanthemum seeds to germinate;
• the boxes are covered with glass or foil to maintain the required humidity regime and put into a bright room, where the air temperature is 10-15 ° C;
• periodic moistening of seeds is carried out by means of a spray bottle;
• after 7, less often 14 days, seedlings appear, after which the film or glass is removed;
• when 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed, the seedlings dive into a larger container, at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other.

In late May - early June, when the threat of frost has passed, the seedlings are planted in open ground. Plants will bloom at the end of June.

You can sow seeds not only in boxes, but also directly into the ground. For this:

• holes are prepared at a distance of 10-15 cm, in each of which 3-4 seeds are sown;
• the holes are covered with glass, which is removed to moisten the soil or when shoots appear;
• when 2-3 pairs of leaves are formed on seedlings, the seedlings are transplanted with a clod of earth to a permanent place.

The flowering of plants obtained by sowing seeds in the ground occurs in late August - early September.

Propagation by cuttings

The preservation of the characteristics inherent in a particular plant variety occurs when chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings.

A mother bush suitable for grafting is chosen in the fall, despite the fact that the cuttings are harvested in the spring. In this case, the sequence of work on preparing a bush for grafting is as follows:

• During the flowering period, healthy plants are selected without any signs of diseases or pests;
• When the plants have faded, the aerial part is cut off.
• With the onset of frost, chrysanthemums are dug up and placed in boxes, after which they are removed for the winter in a cool room where the temperature is 3-8 ° C.
• Periodically, the plant must be watered, preventing the soil from drying out.
• A month before the grafting process, the container with the plant is transferred to a well-lit and warmer room with an air temperature of 10-12 ° C.
• As the temperature rises, the number of waterings also increases.
• After 1-2 weeks, renewal buds begin to appear, from which root shoots are formed, signaling the need to start grafting.

Failure to comply with the storage conditions of the mother bush often leads to the fact that young plants never bloom or shoots appear ahead of time.

Cuttings are carried out when 4-6 leaves or 2-3 internodes are formed on the shoots:

• A stalk 8-10 cm long is cut with a sharp knife at an angle of 45 ° C in the middle of the internode. At the same time, woody stems that are difficult to root, and too soft shoots that are too prone to decay are not suitable for grafting.
• The lower part of the harvested cuttings is freed from the leaves, leaving only 2 leaves on top, which must be cut in half with scissors to avoid excessive absorption of moisture.
• Cuttings are planted in containers with pre-prepared soil, including humus, fertile soil, and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 0.5. In this case, the layer of sand should be about 2.5-3 cm. An alternative version of the substrate, which has good air permeability and moisture capacity, is a mixture of sand with perlite in a 1: 1 ratio. At the same time, pebbles must be placed on the bottom of the sowing container, providing drainage conditions, since the chrysanthemum does not tolerate excess moisture.
• Before direct planting, the lower cut of the cutting is moistened in a solution that stimulates root growth (Kornevin), after which the planting material immediately deepens 1.5-2 cm into a moderately moist layer of sand at an angle of 45 ° C at a distance of 5 cm from each other ...
• The container is covered with glass or foil to maintain the required humidity level and placed in a bright place with a temperature of 17-19 ° C optimal for rooting cuttings.
• It remains to make sure that the soil in the container is always moderately moist, which is achieved by daily spraying.

The duration of rooting of cuttings depends on the time of planting:

• Cuttings planted in January-February take 3 to 4 weeks to root.
• Cuttings planted in April-May take 1 to 2 weeks to root.

The growth that appears on the cuttings indicates the successful rooting of plants. After the appearance of new processes, the film must be removed. 2-3 weeks after rooting, the seedlings can be planted in the ground. However, with the threat of frost, the rooted shoots are transferred to a room where the air temperature is 8-10 ° C, which will exclude the outgrowth of the future plant.

Features of the reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings from a bouquet or mother bush:

• Plants of the same variety, obtained from early and late cuttings, bloom almost at the same time.
• Rooting of small-flowered chrysanthemums occurs faster than large-flowered ones, therefore small-flowered varieties are best cut in January-February, and large-flowered ones - in March-April.
• The height of chrysanthemums obtained from early cuttings is significantly higher than plants obtained with later cuttings.
• With an insufficient amount of mother material, many young plants of the same age can be obtained. For this, cuttings, harvested as the shoots grow, are packed in wet sawdust and stored on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. After obtaining the required number of cuttings, they proceed to mass rooting. However, it is advisable to store the cuttings in the refrigerator for no more than 2 weeks.

Harvesting and subsequent rooting of cuttings is carried out not only in spring, but also in summer and autumn. However, they will still have to be planted in the ground in the spring of next year, although the flowering of chrysanthemums rooted in summer and autumn the next year ahead of the beginning of flowering of chrysanthemums obtained from spring cuttings.

With respect to chrysanthemums from a bouquet, reproduction is carried out in the same way.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The simplest and less laborious method of chrysanthemum propagation is dividing the bush.


In the spring, when the bush is covered with young shoots, it's time to start propagating the flower. For this:

• The bush is dug in from all sides and carefully pulled out with a lump of earth so as not to damage the roots.
• The earth is gently shaken off or washed off with a stream of water.
• With a sharp knife, the bush is divided into several parts so that a separate part has roots and 3-4 shoots.
• Within 30 minutes, the roots of the obtained parts are treated in a weak manganese solution.
• The cuttings are planted in the wells prepared in advance, pressing the earth around the flower to avoid the formation of voids.
• Watering and protecting the seedling from the sun's rays, shading the bush with branches.

The division of chrysanthemum into several bushes contributes not only to reproduction, but also to the rejuvenation of the plant, because if the bush grows without transplanting for more than 3-4 years, then the flowers become smaller, and the plant becomes more susceptible to chronic diseases.

Reproduction by layering

With regard to winter-hardy varieties or domestic chrysanthemums, reproduction is carried out by digging in the stems as follows:

• In the fall, a groove is dug near the bush, the width and depth of which correspond to the height and width of the bush.
• The stems of the plant are laid on the bottom of the trench and pinned with a bracket.
• A layer of 15-20 cm of loose earth is poured on top of the plant and so left for the winter.

In the spring, young shoots with their own root system will hatch from the buds. When the frosts recede, it is necessary to rake the chrysanthemum and cut the stems into pieces so that each part contains roots, and then plant the resulting shoots in a permanent place.

Planting planting material in the ground

The abundance of flowering of a future plant largely depends not only on the variety, but also on the conditions of its growth.

Seat selection

For planting a plant on the street, a windless place with midday shade is suitable, since in the shade the inflorescences become smaller, and in conditions of constant presence in direct sunlight, they quickly fade, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

The elevated area will allow you to avoid stagnation of water during a rainy period or with a close occurrence of groundwater, since the roots of the chrysanthemum are parallel to the surface.

Indoor chrysanthemum requires diffused light. A small mesh or gauze fixed on the window will allow you to achieve the effect of diffused light.

Soil preparation

For the full development and abundant flowering of chrysanthemums, sandy loam or loamy soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is suitable, which must be dug up a month before planting, remove all weeds and apply bird droppings or humus as fertilizer.

Planting process

The planting of plants in the ground is carried out in cloudy weather, or early in the morning or late in the evening in sunny weather, since the direct rays of the sun have a detrimental effect on young plants.

Planting planting material in the ground is reduced to the following works:

• Dig a hole about 40 cm deep under each plant at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.
• Pebbles, broken brick or other materials that play the role of a drainage system are laid at the bottom of the holes.
• Fertile soil mixed with sand in a 1: 1 ratio is poured over the arranged drainage.
• The seedling is lowered into the hole, deepening it by 4-5 cm and compacting the earth around the flower to avoid the formation of air pockets.

For the favorable development of the plant, constant watering, periodic loosening of the soil and fertilization, as well as the timely removal of side shoots are necessary.

Plant decoration

For the formation of a bush of the correct shape and the formation of flowers is correlated with varietal characteristics, the tops of the central buds and lateral shoots of plants must be pinched in a timely manner.

For large-flowered varieties - pinch the top of the central shoot with the appearance of 8 leaves, after which lateral shoots develop, of which 2-3 strong ones are left, and the rest are removed. Grasshopping is carried out as needed 1-2 times a week to form one large flower on each stem.

For small-flowered - the top is pinched with the appearance of 4-6 leaves, after which new shoots are formed, the pinching of which is carried out in the presence of 8 or more leaves. After re-pinching, many new shoots appear, as a result of which the chrysanthemum bush acquires splendor.

Periodic pinching affects not only the formation of the bush, but also the development of the plant as a whole, since the stepsons only draw a large amount of nutrients from the bush.

Thus, the reproduction of chrysanthemums can be done not only in the presence of a bush growing in the garden, but also from a donated bouquet, and the whole process is shown more clearly in the video - reproduction of chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemums are a common garden culture, second only to roses in popularity. Many people manage to successfully grow these magnificent, but still the predominant method of reproduction is vegetative, including cutting of chrysanthemums and dividing the bush. Both options are distinguished by high survival rate and allow you to preserve the varietal characteristics of the mother plant and are perfect for both purchased Dutch and Korean chrysanthemums.

How to plant a chrysanthemum by dividing a bush

Dividing the second most popular way after cuttings to grow chrysanthemum. It is desirable to divide bush chrysanthemums every 3 years. If this is not done, flowering will not be abundant and weak. Before dissolving the chrysanthemums by dividing the bush, the plant must be dug up, divided into several parts along with the roots, the soil must be poured from the roots (if it is sandy), or washed off with water and planted. The number of planting units that can be obtained from one plant depends on its age and characteristics of the variety. On average, a bush, which is 3 years old, gives 5-6 strong, healthy divisions.

As a rule, nurseries sell plants propagated by cuttings and divisions, since most varieties of chrysanthemums are hybrids that are not easy to grow from seeds.

In season, the division of the bush can be carried out at any time, even during the flowering period, if necessary. But best of all in June, when young shoots are actively developing. Green sprouts of chrysanthemums very quickly release new roots. To help them, the soil in which the sprouts are planted must be moist until they take root. Therefore, if there is not enough planting material, even broken off or rootless delenki can be planted.

The resulting cuttings are planted in holes previously dug and filled with humus earth and watered generously. The subsequent care for them is exactly the same as for the chrysanthemums of the previous year. The flowering of young bushes is observed already in the year of transplantation, but the timing of its onset may shift and come 2 weeks later than that of the mother plant.

How to cut chrysanthemums

Breeding chrysanthemums with cuttings is the most popular and effective way to obtain the required amount of planting material of the same age. To successfully grow chrysanthemums from cuttings, you need to start preparing for this method of propagation in advance, with the selection of the strongest and healthiest mother plants. This should be done during the mass flowering of the variety, taking into account not only the general condition of the bush, but also its decorative effect and the severity of varietal characteristics.

Chrysanthemum cuttings take root very easily. Even if you break off a lateral shoot from a bouquet of chrysanthemums standing in the water and plant it in the soil, it will soon give new leaves.

When the flowering is over, the selected specimens are pruned and dug up. Then they are transplanted into boxes or spacious pots with fertile, humus-fertilized soil and watered generously. When the plants take root in new conditions for them, they are moved to a well-lit, cool room with an air temperature of 4-6 ° C, in which they are kept until the last days of January with moderate watering. It is not recommended to store mother plants under shelves or in dark basements, this greatly depletes them and, as a result, significantly reduces the quality and quantity of cuttings.

With the onset of February, chrysanthemums are transferred to a warmer place or the air temperature in the room where they were earlier increases to 12-15 ° C. The soil in pots is generously watered, and a week after watering, the growth of young shoots is stimulated. To do this, fertilize with 0.2% nitrogen fertilizer (in a bucket of settled water at room temperature, dilute 20 g of ammonium nitrate).

The advantage of cuttings is that 30-40 bushes can be grown from one mother bush. For quick healing of wounds obtained during the digging of plants and pruning of shoots, containers with mother liquors are kept in a warm room for 10-12 days, observing moderate watering.

The optimal period for cuttings is February-early April. In principle, later propagation of chrysanthemums in spring in May is also possible, but the time required for the correct formation of the plant before planting in the ground will already be missed, and as a result, it will hardly be possible to achieve a friendly flowering.

The soil for rooting cuttings should be taken well-drained, light, not compacted during watering. It can be a mixture of turf, leafy soil and river sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, as well as perlite, a mixture of peat and sand, or something similar. The prepared soil is poured into a container for planting, leveled, covered with a layer of about 2 cm of sand with peat in a 1: 1 ratio, compacted slightly and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

How do chrysanthemums propagate by cuttings? From the mother bush, cuttings are cut immediately to the desired length (8-10 cm), with a sharp knife and planted in a prepared substrate to a depth of about 1.5 cm, for greater stability, compacting the sand around. Planting density 4x4 or 5x5 cm, depending on the size of the leaf blade. When working with small-leaved varieties per 1 sq. m you can root up to 500 seedlings.

During rooting, the following recommendations should be observed:

• Containers with seedlings are covered with transparent polyethylene, making sure that the distance from its surface to the tops of the cuttings is at least 10 cm.
• On sunny bright days, seedlings need to be shaded.
• The air temperature in the room is maintained at 18-20 ° C, and the soil is 1-2 degrees warmer.
• The substrate should be ventilated daily and, if necessary, moistened.

If after watering there are drops of water on the leaves, you cannot close the film immediately. Excessive moisture provokes the appearance of rot, and a significant part of the cuttings may die.

The duration of the rooting of cuttings depends, first of all, on the conditions created and the time of reproduction. On average, it is 15-18 days in February and 10-14 days in March-April. When the cuttings take root and get stronger, they are transplanted into boxes, pots (several cuttings) or small plastic containers (glasses) with good fertile soil for growing, covered with a plastic bag on top.

Speaking about how to breed chrysanthemums in any of the ways, it is important not to forget about pinching. For the first time, the cuttings that have taken root in a new place are pinched (remove growth points) when they reach a height of 15 cm.The second time they are pinched when the shoots reach a length of 10-12 cm.February and March seedlings are usually pinched 2-3 times, April - 1 -2 times. Timely pinching not only stimulates the growth of lateral shoots, but also contributes to the successful formation of a strong, compact, weather-resistant bush, and also makes it possible to achieve an even flowering. However, it should be remembered that each of the pinches slightly pushes the flowering time, therefore, taking into account the peculiarities of the climate, it is recommended to carry them out at the optimum time and only on plants of early reproduction terms.

When in the early stages of cuttings it is required to obtain an additional amount of planting material of a certain variety, you can cut the tops of the rooted cuttings to a length of 4-5 internodes (depending on their height), and then root them in the same way.

If you didn’t manage to plant the cuttings right away, don’t worry: at low temperatures they can be stored for 6-8 weeks without losing their suitability for rooting.

During the growing and rooting of planting material, it is necessary to feed both young and uterine bushes twice a month, alternating solutions of mineral (0.2% concentration) and organic fertilizers (mullein 1:10). 10-14 days before planting cuttings in open ground, you need to start hardening them in order to prepare them for new growing conditions. To do this, containers with plants can be placed in unheated greenhouses or simply placed on a loggia or terrace, not forgetting to cover them with foil at night.