To grow pepper, you need to know the technology and features of this process well. But no less responsible is the collection of fruits. To get a good harvest and keep it for future use, it is very important to follow all the rules for picking fruits from bushes. What are these rules - we will consider later in the article.

When is the best time to shoot peppers

Bell peppers are grown both in the greenhouse and in the open field. In order for the fruits of this culture to be better and longer stored, they must be timely, and most importantly, correctly removed from the bush. Removal time depends on the type of vegetable. The first crop can be harvested, as a rule, in mid-July, but the bulk of it finally ripens by the end of August - early September.

Did you know? The Aztecs and Mayans used hot peppers as a substitute for salt, which was not well known to them, and sweet ones were consumed as an ordinary vegetable.

In the open field

The harvest time for vegetables grown outdoors is influenced by 3 main factors:

• ripening periods, different for each individual variety: for early - 70–80 days, for later - from 130 days or more;
• variety of culture - bitter or sweet;
• seasonal weather conditions.

Harvesting of the main part of the harvest begins in mid-August, the fruits are harvested at intervals of 6-8 days. By the time the first frost occurs, not a single vegetable should remain on the bushes.

After harvesting the fruits, they must be sorted according to the degree of ripeness. Those that did not have time to fully ripen must be folded separately for ripening.

With proper storage conditions, this culture can be stored for a long time, even longer than tomatoes or eggplants can be stored.

Pepper storage rules are as follows:

1. The main condition is that vegetables should not have any flaws (scratches, traces of diseases, cracks, dents).
2. Fruits with thin walls are best stored in the refrigerator, but first you need to cut off their stalks so that a small tip remains.
3. Ripe vegetables must be stored at a temperature of +1 ... + 2 ° С, and those that are still ripening at +10 ... + 12 ° С.

Important!For storing peppers, plastic bags and boxes are excellent, in which the fruits must be folded and sprinkled with sawdust.

In the greenhouse

Ripening of this culture in greenhouse conditions occurs in 90-110 days, the fruits can be harvested for a long time. The fruiting period, as well as when growing in open beds, depends on the variety.

The finally ripe fruits that are at the level of the third tier from the soil should be selected for seed collection. The harvested vegetables must be set aside until completely dry, and only after that the seeds are taken out of them. The seeds are wrapped in paper or put in paper bags and stored until completely dry. Shelf life is 3 years.

How to understand that peppers are ripe

Signs of ripening of this vegetable crop:

• by color - vegetables should be red, yellow, pale lemon, purple;
• in size and shape, the fruit must match its variety;
• pepper is firm, poured, has a fresh smell.

In addition to these signs, it is worth considering the technical and biological ripeness of the fruit.

Did you know?The Mayans rubbed hot pepper on the gums to get rid of a toothache.

Technical ripeness

This type of ripeness occurs 20–45 days after the flowering period. The culture has not yet reached its full maturity, but it already corresponds to the parameters of a ripe vegetable. It is necessary to harvest sweet pepper at this time in order to successfully transport it, preserve and sell it. Fruit color can be dark green, white, yellowish. During technical maturity, vegetables are harvested selectively, every 5-10 days, before the first cold weather.

With technical ripeness, subject to storage rules, pepper feels great up to 2 months and gradually ripens. When the harvested crop is moved to a sunny or well-lightened place, full maturity will come faster than when stored in a dark place, and the color will correspond to the fully ripe fruit of its variety.

Biological ripeness

This ripeness is also called physiological. This is the real ripeness of the pepper, at which it reaches the required size on the bush and acquires the appropriate color. Biologically mature fruits have bright colors - red, yellow, orange, brown, violet.

The harvested crop cannot be stored during physiological maturity - vegetables must be immediately sold or processed. Collect them every 4–5 days. It must be remembered that if ripe vegetables are harvested at the wrong time, the branching of the bush may stop, which may negatively affect the volume of the subsequent harvest.

Important! The peculiarity of hot red pepper is that it needs to be harvested only after the onset of biological maturity.

When determining the degree of maturity of hot pepper, the following main characteristics are used:

• colorful pod color - red, orange, yellow;
• dry leaves at the bottom of the bush and yellowing upper ones;
• the ripened fruits of this vegetable are saturated with bitter, burning substances, and if you rub it a little on the skin with a pod, you should feel a burning sensation.

The ideal time to harvest bitter pods for long-term storage is the end of September.

If the harvest of hot pepper is harvested before biological maturity, it does not contain a sufficient amount of pungent substances. These vegetables are usually used for conservation.

How to pick peppers correctly

During the harvest, there is no need to rush to collect everything at once. An incorrectly removed fruit will not be subject to storage, it will quickly rot, and if other vegetables lie next to it, they will begin to rot too. Be sure to use a sharpened knife or garden shears for harvesting. In no case should you pluck the fruits from the bush - they are very fragile and delicate, breaks, cracks, dents and scratches may appear on them, which will lead to damage.

So, knowledge of the correct technology for removing pepper fruits is necessary if you want to get the most rich harvest. This technology is not complicated, but it requires compliance with the rules for the collection of this vegetable crop. This way you can preserve your harvest for a long period.

When to start harvesting peppers depends on what kind it is and why you are growing it.

Types of pepper ripeness

Pepper has two different types of ripeness - technical (in which the fruits must begin to be harvested for storage, transportation or sale) and biological (real ripeness in every sense, it is also called physiological). When technically ripe, the fruit is usually greenish (dark green to almost white) or yellowish, although there are exceptions. Bright - yellow, orange, red, brown, purple, etc. - the fruits become when they reach biological ripeness.

Collection and storage of sweet peppers

It is especially important to keep these two different ripeness in mind when growing sweet vegetable peppers. If you did not remove the sweet pepper on time, and the biological ripeness has already come, the fruits should be used immediately, after removing from the branch, because they lie very badly. But the fruits collected in a state of technical ripeness can be stored under suitable conditions for up to two months and allowed to ripen as needed. They took the pod out of the refrigerator or cellar, put it in a lighted place - and soon it will change its color to mature.

Collection and storage of bitter peppers

On the contrary, it is customary to remove hot peppers in a state of biological ripeness: the walls of its pod are thinner and not so fleshy, they dry out more easily than they rot, especially since the burning substance contained in them also serves as a light preservative. The more ripe the pod, the more of this substance in it.

Knowing this, you can, as it were, manage its pungency (in case you use whole pods, for example, when pickling other vegetables) and collect fully ripe fruits for those family members who love spicy, and for those who are too spicy does not like - in a state of technical ripeness.

Please tell us about the terms and rules for harvesting pepper. I heard that it is better to harvest it green, and not wait for full maturation.

Andrey Anatolyevich KUPAKOVICH, Vitebsk region, Novopolotsk

It is more correct to operate with terms technical and biological maturity... In the first case, we are talking about fruits that have reached the size determined by the variety, but have not yet acquired its inherent color. When the pods are green, they are harvested for sale, shipping, and storage. At biological maturity, the fruits become bright - red, yellow, orange, brown and even black. For food and preparations, you can use both those and other fruits.

In the summer, peppers are more in demand in technical maturity. They must be removed at a stage when they have reached standard sizes and acquired a glossy finish. In this phase they are more transportable and have better keeping quality. Contrary to popular belief, fruits in technical maturity have a more intense aroma.

The following factor is also important: if you collect peppers in the phase of technical ripeness, the plant will consume nutrients not for their ripening, but for the growth of the remaining fruits.

On a note

In terms of nutrient content, pepper is superior to tomato and eggplant, and in the amount of vitamin C (105-270 mg%) it has no equal among vegetables. It should be noted that during the ripening of the fruit, the content of this element of health doubles. Therefore, from the point of view of biological value, it is desirable to use fully ripe peppers for nutrition. After the color appears, a lot of carotene, rutin, and B vitamins also accumulate in the fruit. Nicotinic and folic acids are contained in significant quantities.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS

Bulgarian varieties are removed at the stage of technical ripeness, in this state the pepper is already quite edible and well-ripened.

Hybrids of Dutch breeding at the stage of technical ripeness are tasteless and difficult to ripen, so they should be removed no earlier than the first smear of varietal color appears. Better yet, grow them to the stage of biological ripeness right on the bushes, then they really taste great! In this case, as their color develops, the sugar content in the fruit pulp increases. A characteristic sign of the complete ripening of the pepper is a slight drying of the fruit tissue.

However, in this situation it is necessary to correctly determine the "golden mean". When harvesting fully ripe fruits, the plants are weakened more, so the yields can be half as much.

You can doze peppers at room temperature in boxes or open plastic bags, out of direct sunlight. To speed up the process, you can put 1-2 ripe fruits. It is advisable to turn the pods from time to time.

HOW TO COLLECT PEPPER CORRECTLY?

Collect peppers every 3-5 days... In no case should pick the fruit off the bush with your handas this can harm the stem. The firm, dense stalk is cut off with a secateurs.

On pepper seeds are harvested at the onset of full biological ripeness and leave for ripening for 3-4 weeks. After that, the fruits are cut in a circle around the calyx and the "insides" are taken out by the stalk together with the seeds. For several days (3-4) this part of the fruit is dried at a temperature of 25-30 degrees, after which the seeds are separated and put in paper bags.

The agronomist Andrey V. DOLININ, Smolensk, answered the reader's question

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

: You can't refrain from praising words ...

: GROWING PEPPER - LANDING AND ...

There are no peculiarities and difficulties in pepper harvesting. The main thing is to take care of the preservation of the harvest in time, correctly determine the harvesting time and correctly lay vegetables for the winter. In August, a noticeable cold snap is already possible, so do not miss the moment to harvest. Fruits touched by low temperatures will not last long. For better preservation, you need to remove the pepper in technical ripeness, to obtain germinating seeds - in biological.

When to remove bell peppers?

The timing of harvesting peppers will differ depending on whether the soil is open or protected, and under what climatic conditions it grows.

• Peppers require a temperature of 20-28 ° C for optimal growth and development.
• At a temperature of 15 ° C, the plant stops vegetating, and at temperatures close to zero, the plant dies.
• There are concepts of technical and biological ripeness of pepper.
• You can harvest at any stage.

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The technical harvest is characterized by the fact that the pepper:

• gained weight,
• reached a certain size for a variety,
• became elastic
• but its seeds are not yet ripe,
• and the fruit did not acquire its varietal color.

1. It is recommended to harvest the peppers precisely in technical ripeness, so you will get large yields throughout the season.
2. Indeed, when we harvest fruits in technical ripeness, new fruits grow faster on the plant, and then the yield increases significantly.
3. For quick ripening of peppers harvested at the stage of technical ripeness, place 1-2 ripe fruits in a box with vegetables. In this case, the fruits can be both the pepper itself and other ripe vegetables that emit ethylene, which serves as a ripening catalyst. Both red apples and tomatoes will noticeably help the peppers to reach biological ripeness.

When the pepper reaches biological ripeness:

• its fruits acquire the full color characteristic of the variety or hybrid - red, orange, yellow, purple, etc.
• Biologically ripe fruits contain more vitamin C and P vitamins, as well as carotenoids (substances important for the body).

Bringing sweet pepper to biological ripeness on a bush adds another 20-25 days to the ripening of fruits

1. Therefore, it makes sense to harvest the biological crop of pepper only to obtain seeds, it is in such peppers that they are fully ripe with good germination. Do not forget that seeds can be collected from varietal peppers, but it is undesirable to collect seeds from hybrids.
2. In general, fruits harvested in biological ripeness are stored in the same way as fruits in technical ripeness, just with technical ripeness they will lie longer with you and can wait for their biological ripeness.
3. Peppers collected in biological maturity are usually eaten immediately.

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How to properly remove bell peppers

Pepper must be handled carefully, it has a very brittle bush and fragile stems, so try not to damage the plant when harvesting.

1. It is convenient to cut off the fruits of the pepper with a sharp knife or pruner, supporting the stem itself.
2. In the greenhouse, it is recommended to harvest the fruits 2 times a week, starting in mid-July.
3. Dense fruits with a glossy shine are ready for harvesting - they have technical ripeness.
4. The wall thickness of the pepper depends more on the variety than on the ripeness of the fruit and can be from 5 to 12 mm. It is believed that the thicker the wall, the tastier the peppers.
5. After cutting the fruit, you can remove the lower leaves on the pepper plant.

How to store bell peppers

• Before storing, inspect all vegetables - the fruits should be healthy, without cracks and other damage from diseases and pests.
• Crumpled, gnawed and diseased fruits will not last long, it is better to process them and eat them first in the near future.
• When preparing peppers for long-term storage, you should not wash them; you can simply shake off the dirt or wipe them with a dry cloth.
• Ripe sweet peppers are stored in plastic bags or boxes, sprinkled with sawdust.
• It is best to store peppers in a special room - in a cellar, shed, vegetable store with a temperature of 6 to 12 ° C.

- temperatures 8-10 ° C;
- high humidity 95-97%.

How to store bell peppers at home

1. If you store peppers at home, choose a well-ventilated area with high humidity.
2. This can be a box or a rack near the balcony.
3. At the same time, it is better to place the pepper closer to the floor, where, presumably, the humidity is higher and the draft is walking.
4. You can additionally wrap each pepper with a napkin or paper - this way the vegetables will last even longer.

Related articles On my site, I usually plant no more than a dozen different varieties of peppers. At the same time, I try to place them as far away from each other as possible, dividing them with tall tomatoes, sunflowers, and corn.

Pour the soil in which the peppers grow with water and feed the plants: 10-12 g of ammonium nitrate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate for 10 liters of water.

Wilting disease manifests itself in leaf fall and is usually caused by fungi. In this case, the diseased plant is removed and burned.

All incorrectly formed ovaries are removed so as not to delay the development of healthy fetuses.

Sowing pepper seeds

Tents made of wooden bars, cardboard, matting, burlap, roofing material and other materials are reliable protection. The bushes are covered with tents in the evening and opened in the morning when it gets warmer.

To make the fruits better set, add 2 g of superphosphate to each top dressing (for each root).

From the moment of spring tillage to planting seedlings in the ground, sometimes a month or more passes. Therefore, the soil is kept in a loose and weed-free condition, after each rain the top layer is loosened with a rake to prevent crust formation and moisture evaporation. Along the way, sprouted weeds are destroyed. If there is no rain, then loosening is carried out as soon as weed shoots appear.

The excellent quality of bell peppers is that they are not hygrophilous. It does not need to be watered often, which makes it easier to care for the seedlings. However, too dry conditions in film greenhouses can destroy the plant. When it does not get water, flowers fall, which ultimately adversely affects the harvest. If you are unable to water the bell peppers in portions on time, create conditions in order to retain moisture. Mulching will help in this regard, otherwise, a mound of grass, which is placed on the beds. Mulching also creates heat and humus. If you are using mulch, then the plant can be watered only three times a week.

Vitamins P, C, B, B1, B9, potassium, magnesium, iodine, iron, chromium, calcium and many other trace elements make pepper indispensable in the fight for a healthy heart and blood vessels. Unfortunately, in pursuit of a large harvest, an industrial vegetable is saturated with pesticides. Therefore, it is better if you grow the bell peppers yourself.

When peppers appear, the weak are often removed and the stronger ones are left. During the next branching of the shoots, each of them is pinched again, leaving strong and strong shoots.

Top dressing of seedlings

The homeland of pepper is America - in areas where the tropical climate prevails, you can still find wild peppers. In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ”

I noticed that the maximum yield is given by peppers, which are grown through seedlings, on well-fertilized soft soil, with uniform moisture throughout the entire growing period. Usually I fertilize the soil with humus or compost for digging - 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m. Subsequently, I feed it with mullein or bird droppings diluted with water 1:10 and 1:20, respectively. All this gives good results.

Helper plants

How to plant seedlings and create favorable conditions for growth?

Folk way

For the period of frosts and prolonged cooling, temporary film shelters are used, as well as smoke and sprinkling. The material for the smoke piles is selected so that it gives off thick smoke. Sprinkling is especially effective when the unit provides a fine spray.

Pepper yields more yields when fed with urea rather than mullein.

The timing of planting pepper seedlings depends on weather conditions and the location of the site. On the southern slopes, in non-frost-prone areas, they are planted earlier - in mid or late May. If the grower does not have means of temporary protection of plants from frost, then they start planting when the danger of frost has passed (no earlier than June 10-15).

The time that comes for the garter of the plant, you can easily determine by the ripening of the crop. When the fruits are poured, they begin to bend the seedlings to the ground. It was at this time that you need to install a support to each bush and tie it up with a ribbon from a rag.

Sweet peppers are not very whimsical, so it can be grown throughout Russia. Somewhere you need to give it more heat, somewhere more nutrients, but one way or another, growing it will not be a problem for you.

How and what to feed?

The plant is very thermophilic and at the same time hygrophilous. It represents the nightshade family and is distinguished by its capriciousness.

Vasily I. ALEYNIK, Minsk region, Volozhin district

If you want the peppers to be sweet, thick and shiny, do not be lazy to prevent diseases of this plant, but without chemicals.

For 10 liters of water add 1 glass of wood ash and tobacco dust, insist for a day and filter well, add 2 tbsp. l. liquid soap and spray. Especially carefully - the inner surface of the leaves.

Harvest

How to increase the yield?

In some years, the pepper bears fruit until October. It tolerates cold weather much better than tomato.

"Lunch" for pepper

It is better to plant peppers in a tape manner. The distance between the ribbons is 50-60 cm, between plants in a row - 15-25 cm.Early ripe, low-growing varieties are placed in a row every 15 cm, or two plants per hole, but at a distance of 30-40 cm.

Pepper's little enemies

Pickling is also an important and necessary process for bell peppers to produce a great harvest. It consists in breaking off the branches on the plant stem from below. This is also called the removal of stepchildren. This must be done so that nutrients are spent not for the growth of additional stems, but for the ripening of the fruit. It is not worth tearing off stepchildren in the heat, since in such weather, on the contrary, they help the stem to cool.

There are different varieties of plants, and their choice depends on how you want to harvest in the end. If you need the fruits of bell pepper for cooking all kinds of dishes and food in their natural form, then you should opt for such varieties as Gladiator or Ermak.

About the beneficial properties of pepper

1. Wormwood and tansy are harvested during flowering by cutting off plants with stems. Half a bucket of green mass is boiled for 10-15 minutes in a small amount of water, the broth is allowed to cool, filtered, brought to a volume of 10 liters and pepper bushes are sprayed.
2. Experienced gardeners know what peppers need to keep them healthy.
3. To do this:
4. The harvested fruits can be stored for one or even two months in a dry, moderately warm room.
5. I grow peppers in the beds. I noticed: the cultivation of this crop on raised beds with a height of 15-25 cm and a width of 70-90 cm in the upper part of them gives a high effect.The seedlings take root better on them, ripening is accelerated by 7-10 days, the yield at the first harvest is 30-50% more than on a flat surface.

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When to remove peppers from the greenhouse? (photo and video instruction)

Landing technique is very important. Many vegetable growers do it wrong. First, a hole is made, seedlings are immersed in it, then the roots are covered with earth and watered with water. With such a planting, already on the second day, a crust forms at the irrigation site, which enhances the evaporation of moisture from the lower layers of the soil, makes it difficult for air to reach the roots and beneficial soil microorganisms, and worsens the conditions for plant survival. Therefore, the grower is forced to water the seedlings almost daily until they take root.

Pepper varieties

Greenhouse pepper care also consists in high-quality removal of weeds, which can oppress the seedlings, depriving them of food and light. Not only weeding, but also mulching will help to solve the problem. In the shade of the crushed grass, harmful plants practically do not grow.

But "Medal", "Black Cardinal" and "Victoria" will suit you if the purpose of growing a plant is pickling. It is necessary to feed the plants every seven days with mineral fertilizers or compost, having prepared a solution in advance with the addition of water and a small concentration of fertilizer. After 15 days after planting, the first feeding is performed. You can use mullein, diluted in ten parts of water, with the addition of 25 g of superphosphate.If you are partial to the process of planting cultivated plants, then tips on growing pepper will be very useful information.

If it's warm, let it grow

Growing seedlings and moving them to the greenhouse

Yarrow is harvested at the beginning of flowering, 1.5 kilograms of chopped greens are poured with 2-3 liters of boiling water, insisted for two days, filtered, brought to 10 liters. They also prepare infusions for processing peppers from tomato and potato tops.And for those who are taking their first steps in gardening, these tips, we hope, will help them figure out what the plants are moping about. Remove the central flower growing from the first branch of the bush pepper;

Pepper in the sleeve

Growing pepper in a greenhouse

And, of course, I make sure to feed my favorite culture.

The correct landing technique is as follows. First, using a cord or marker, mark the tapes. Then, along each row, after 15-30 cm, with a planting scoop or a hoe, holes are made 10-12 cm deep. Each hole is watered at the rate of 0.5-1 liters of water per plant. Potted or potless seedlings are planted in the resulting "mud", covered with soil and compacted. Above, around the planted seedlings, peat or dry soil is poured with a layer of 3-4 cm.This loose layer serves as mulch, which will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the hole and the lower horizon of the soil. After planting is complete, it is impossible to water the mulching layer - in order to avoid the formation of a soil crust.

As for fertilizers, in this case you will have to work hard, because sweet peppers love versatile feeding. In small quantities, the soil in film greenhouses should be fertilized weekly. It is necessary to take into account the fact that during the growing season, the plant especially needs nitrogen-containing substances. As it ripens, you need to add fertilizer with phosphorus. If aphids appear, fertilize with substances with potassium.

These top greenhouse peppers come in a small size that fits comfortably in jars.

For 1m², you can spend 5 liters of solution. Peppers can also be fed with Sudarushka, Ideal, Biomaster fertilizers, chicken droppings.

So, we read about the secrets of growing sweet peppers.

Little green ones, but they can come in warmth.

Pepper outside the greenhouse

100 g of fresh fruits of hot pepper are boiled in 1 liter of water in a saucepan under a closed lid for an hour, insisted for two days. Then the pepper is ground, the infusion is stirred, filtered and diluted 1:10.

If the grown peppers lack nitrogen, the leaves turn pale, then turn yellow from the main vein to the edges and fall off. Fruits are thin-walled, curved in the shape of a crescent.

Greenhouse Pepper Care

Improve pollination by spraying the plant during flowering with a solution of sugar or honey to attract pollinating insects.

For nitrogen, the greatest need for pepper is manifested before flowering and during mass ripening of fruits. Its lack is indicated by the pale green color of the upper leaves, yellowing and death of the lower ones. I put in two or three days before planting seedlings (or for spring digging), 10-20 g per sq. m of ammonium nitrate. I feed the first feeding three to four weeks after planting, the second after the second or third harvest, before watering - 10-15 g / sq. m. Fertilizers can be dissolved in irrigation water. But it is impossible to exceed the norm, since the pepper accumulates excess fertilizer in the fruits in the form of nitrates.

"Bottom" watering in the holes, the creation of a mulch layer around the plant ensure quick survival of the seedlings, does not require subsequent daily watering, which inevitably happens with "upper" watering.

There are no specific rules that say that it is definitely time to remove the pepper from the greenhouse. But the summer resident can easily recognize ripe peppers by their appearance. It is necessary to collect it in film greenhouses together with the stalk. Take scissors and carefully cut the fruit. If your harvest is large, then it makes sense to sort it. You need to remove and fold clean peppers in one pile, the damaged one will go for blanks - we put it in the second. And we remove the unripe in the third. In terms of time, peppers should be removed in the fall before the onset of frost. It should be borne in mind that different varieties and ripen in different ways. So, early-maturing varieties should be removed from 90 days of their life. Mid-ripening ripens at 110 - 130 days. And late-ripening peppers, accordingly, need to be removed after 130 days.

The greenhouse conditions that give the plant the temperature it needs to ripen are not the only requirement for gardeners. The sweet pepper harvest ripens well when the plant develops in a specially prepared soil for it. However, this is not at all difficult to do. The main thing is to create a new fertile layer. It is advisable if you bring into the greenhouse a layer of soil that was previously used for growing pumpkins, onions, carrots or cabbage. The addition of compost or manure is also encouraged. In addition, during planting of seedlings, the use of industrial mineral fertilizers will not interfere. But for the presence of fungus and rot you need to look. Then you can harvest a rich pepper crop.

When to Harvest?

It is important during fruiting to feed the plant with fertilizer, which contains more N and Ca.

You can grow peppers by seedlings. And for this it is necessary to sow the seeds in advance, 50-60 days earlier than the seedling begins. Choose only fresh seeds for seedlings.

Harvest problems

We always shoot gradually - they don't ripen evenly. We remove the green ones before tearing them out by the bush.

100 g of chopped garlic (onion) is poured into 3 liters of cold water, left for 3 hours, another 3 liters of water is added, filtered and the plants are immediately processed.

Plants must be fed with slurry diluted with water 1: 5, or ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per 10 l of water).

Remember!

I take a 25-by-70 cm rectangle of plastic wrap and sew it along the short side. It turns out a film sleeve 25 cm long. I dig a hole 30 cm deep in the ground. I line the bottom with turf.

Pepper especially needs phosphorus at the beginning of the growing season, when the insufficiently developed root system of the plant cannot ensure its timely supply from the soil. I apply superphosphate as the main fertilizer during autumn or early spring digging of the soil, to a depth of 5-15 cm at 30-45 g / sq. m. The increased soil temperature on the ridges improves the solubility of phosphates. True, superphosphate should be applied only on soils poor in phosphorus.

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For better survival, the roots are dipped in a clay chatterbox (if the seedlings were grown without a pick).

A little advice for those who want to harvest as soon as possible: unripe fruits will sing faster when you cut the top off the bush. It is then that the pepper itself will do everything to ripen the fruits faster. Although you can easily shoot the still unripe vegetable. After a while, it will mature.

Bell pepper is a thermophilic and unhurried plant. Competent growing of pepper in a greenhouse also depends on the placement of seedlings in the garden. It is better to place it in the necessary conditions even before disembarking in the garden in February.

The flowering process in pepper lasts until the very frost. Prevent the plant from overheating during flowering. The norm for temperature indicators is + 24- + 26 degrees.
Pepper seeds are capricious, and therefore you need to take the process of growing seedlings responsibly. They can be sown in trays or pots, and then put in a warm place.
And here I am on such a bed of bushes 50 soot. Literally in 15 -20 cm, so many of them turn out.
Do I need to dive sweet pepper seedlings? Many will answer: of course! However, not everyone knows that such technology is not always a good thing, especially for delicate crops such as bell peppers.
Lack of potassium? The lower leaves are yellow, the edges dry up, but near the veins they remain green. Shoots stop growing, and spots appear on the fruit.
Pepper does not like potassium chloride.
In the film sleeve, in the corners, I insert four pegs, three of which are five to six centimeters longer than the sleeve, and the fourth is very large - about a meter high. The sleeve seems to be made square. I deepen it 6-7 cm and fix it with pegs in the prepared place. I fill the hole with fertile soil, filled with humus and fertilizer, but not to the top, so that the water does not slide off during watering. On top, it is advisable to put a layer of needles, sawdust. It turns out like a mine for planting vegetables. I plant two roots of pepper seedlings grown in advance in one - they grow together more amicably. I tie bushes to the longest peg. I place the shafts one after another at a distance of 15-20 cm, between the rows - 30 cm.
But pepper needs potassium from setting until the end of ripening of the fruit.
A great effect is given by the introduction of an organic-mineral mixture when planting in a hole (200-300 g of humus or peat, 5-10 g of superphosphate and potassium salt each). After planting is completed, the aisles are loosened with a rake to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil.
Caring for peppers in a greenhouse is not only timely watering, but also a fight against problems. During the ripening process, peppers can experience various difficulties, aches and suffer from pests. But if you take care of it in time, identify the cause of the problems and provide competent care, you can defeat any disease, any rot.
Plant seeds are placed in boxes, after a month they are transplanted into peat pots.
The plant is grown, but now, for the purpose of good pollination, it needs a slight shaking during flowering. When fruit is formed, flowering slows down. Pepper stems should be tied up during fruiting - this way you can protect them from breakage.
Before sowing, it is necessary to prepare the seeds of the plant, for this, treat the seeds in a 1% manganese solution for 15 minutes, then rinse and place the seeds in a wet cloth for 2-3 days.
It depends on where you live. Pepper is very afraid of frost, even the slightest. In the meantime, there is no threat of frost, let it mature. But plucked peppers are stored for a very long time in a cool, ventilated room.
Indeed, after this procedure, the growth of seedlings slows down - the roots of sweet pepper are very sensitive to the slightest mechanical stress.
Feed the peppers with potassium sulfate (10-15 g per 10 L of water). And until they are well, do not fertilize with calcium and magnesium.
Top dressing from a barrel
And then all the work is watering and feeding. Weeds practically don't grow in mines!

Now about watering. Before the start of fruit formation, I water at the rate of two liters of water per day per 1 sq. m, during the period of mass fruit formation - 4-6 liters per sq. m. In a wet year, pepper requires only 3-4 watering, in an average - 5-7, in a dry - 8-12. In general, during the growing season, the plant needs 400-550 liters of water per 1 sq. m. Depending on the conditions of the year, it is provided with precipitation by 20-60%, moisture reserves in the soil - by two or three, everything else - by irrigation. In dry spring, I do pre-planting watering (20-30 liters per sq. M). Two days after planting the seedlings, for its better survival rate, I carry out refreshing watering - 10-15 liters per sq. m, if there was a pre-planting one, or 20-25 liters per sq. m, if there was none.
The pepper root system is shallow in the soil, and is very responsive to loosening. The flow of air to the roots accelerates the growth and development of plants, activates the biological activity of soil microorganisms, and improves nutrition.
So, yellow leaves will tell you about excessively dry air, even if the ground is humid. If the plant does not grow or flowering has stopped, the reason may lie in the cold. If you notice that the trunk and shoots seem to be wooden, the unsuitable climatic conditions are to blame - the temperature is below +15 or above +30 degrees.
This should be done when several leaves appear on the bell pepper. They are planted in pots in pairs. For seedlings already at home, special care is needed. For example, you need to loosen the soil daily. But watering is necessary in moderation.
When the fruits are ripe, pick them carefully, as they are very fragile. If, after collecting the first harvest, you carry out a complex fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, then a secondary harvest awaits you ahead.

Pepper seeds are sown in containers at a short distance from each other, then covered with foil until the sprouts are sprouted.
Cool thriller. Such puffing off-screen)))
To avoid this, try growing peppers without picking. Pre-soak the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate or a growth stimulant, or simply keep them in warm water for several hours. Cut off the bottom corner of the plastic sour cream bags so that the water can drain and fold the bag in half - you get narrow "cups". After filling them with soil, place them tightly in a box or box. Pour the soil in bags with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, put 1-2 seeds in each of them and sprinkle with soil with a layer of 1 cm.Carefully cover the box with foil and place in a warm place where the air temperature is 25-27 degrees.
With a deficiency of phosphorus, the leaves acquire a bluish-green tint, and then, together with the stems and petioles, become purple-red. After the leaves curl, the stem becomes thinner, flowering is delayed, and, accordingly, the harvest, and the roots are covered with a rusty bloom.
During flowering, 6-7 kg of chopped nettle, plantain leaves, dandelion, woodlice, coltsfoot are placed in a 100 liter barrel, 10 liters of mullein and a glass of wood ash are added. Pour water to the top, stir and leave for 7-10 days. They are fed at the rate of 1 liter under a bush.

In the fall, after harvesting a bountiful harvest, I leave all the mines in place. I'm not digging anything, because under them the earthworms are warm and satisfying. In the spring they wake up and begin their life-giving work. I remove the stakes, take out the sleeves, level the ground with a rake. Instead of polyethylene, you can use old boards, pieces of slate, linoleum trim to build mines.
In August, when the bulk of the fruit is formed, peppers especially need water. Deficiency of moisture dramatically reduces the yield. Depending on the amount of precipitation, I water the pepper every 8-12 days. On hot days (but not in cold windy weather!), Evening sprinkling of 10-15 liters per square meter gives good results. m. I stop watering pepper 10-15 days before the last harvest.
Pepper roots do not like direct sunlight. When the plants bloom, you need the crowns to close. Do not plant sweet and hot peppers next to them, as they will all become bitter due to cross-pollination.
As for pests from the genus of insects, the enemies of pepper are aphids, thrips or the Colorado potato beetle. They must be destroyed with special chemistry.
The ceremony of planting seedlings in the greenhouse should be carried out when the soil has already warmed up enough - around the end of April, if the plant has a sufficient number of leaves. And remove as it ripens.
Pepper has the property of pollination, so do not plant bitter and sweet peppers next to it. This can lead to the fact that bitterness can be transmitted to sweet.
The soil for the pepper is chosen rich, with a high degree of fertility. To grow seedlings, it is important not to forget that the soil must be warm. So, the soil temperature must be at least 25 degrees Celsius. In addition, it must be kept moist until the seedlings emerge.
I live in Siberia. I grow pepper without a greenhouse. I always collect it in green, the way you have it now. If you have frost soon, collect it. If it is warm before the end of October, let it grow.
To prevent the soil from drying out, check the soil moisture every day, monitor the condition of the crops. As a rule, shoots appear in 7-10 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the box to a bright, warm place and immediately remove the film. Five days after the emergence of seedlings, they must be fed with mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate. In the future, this should be done every 10 days. Water the seedlings as needed with warm, settled water. When the peppers grow up, the bags should be unrolled completely and filled with soil.

At the first signs of starvation, dilute 0.8 g of ammophos and 2.8 g of potassium nitrate in 1 liter of water and water the plants.
During fruiting, 1 bucket of mullein and 1 glass of urea are poured into a 100 liter barrel, poured with water, mixed well and infused for 4-5 days. Pepper is poured at the rate of 5 liters per 1 m2.
T. V. LANDYSHEVA
I start watering in the beds 7-10 days earlier than on a flat surface, since here the evaporating soil surface is larger and the plants are more powerful.

Pepper does not tolerate frost on the soil. It does not tolerate high groundwater levels and even short-term flooding. The soil in which the seedlings are transplanted should be structurally better than the one in which the seedlings grow.
If you want to remove top rot, you should feed the plant with calcium fertilizer. This disease is considered a real pepper scourge.
The process of planting sweet pepper seedlings must be observed not only in accordance with calendar dates, but also with temperature conditions. So, the plant should be planted in soil warmed up to at least +18 degrees. By the way, if you are the proud owner of a heated greenhouse, then it makes sense to plant seeds directly into the greenhouse.
Pepper pests: (1-aphid, 2-Colorado potato beetle, 3-mites, 4-scoop).

Pepper seeds are sown in a warm and moist soil substrate (1-2 cm depth is sufficient). To avoid drying out the top soil layer, cover the crop with a plastic wrap. And after the first sprouts of pepper sprout, the film can be removed.
No way, there is more sour cream.
By the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the seedlings are easily removed from the bags and, together with a lump of soil, are transferred into the holes. This method allows you to sow seeds for seedlings not in February, as usual, but in mid-March.
Lack of zinc manifests itself as yellowish-green spots that appear on old leaves, and then turn brown, later the leaves die off.
They do not sleep and are activated during flowering and with high humidity in the greenhouse. To fight
The stepsons went into action

Don't overfeed

By the time of transplanting into open ground, the bushes should be 25-30 cm high. The pepper bush develops better if it is not allowed to be planted too deeply. The root system should be as close to the ground as possible.
By the way, rot will inevitably occur if the greenhouse has high humidity and constant heat. But if the plant rots under normal conditions, then the virus is to blame. Preventive measures in this case are spraying healthy bushes with chemicals, but infected plants are also removed from the soil. Next, the earth needs to be covered with ash and loosened. At the same time, you cannot water it until it begins to crack.
Growing pepper in a greenhouse can be carried out in two different ways: on the garden bed or in special polyethylene bags.
Like any plant, pepper has its enemies. Representatives of flora harmful to pepper are aphids, mites, scoop, Colorado potato beetle, etc.
Seedlings are grown, now you need to think about feeding. The pepper is fed every ten days 2-3 times. The first time feeding is done when two leaves appear on the seedlings. And if a pick was previously carried out, then they feed after two weeks, not earlier. For this, mineral fertilizers or compost are used, but the plant does not tolerate fresh manure. And if you want to protect the plant from diseases, then a phytosporin solution will be useful for this: 1.5 liters of water and 0.5 teaspoon of the solution. Protection is carried out together with the procedure for enriching the plant with mineral elements.

Try lemon juice

Tamara Georgievna VASILEVSKAYA, Brest region, Ivatsevichi district
To avoid this, sprinkle the peppers with Kemira Lux or Kemira Kombi (1 g per 1 liter of water).
It is difficult with them, but it is necessary so as not to lose the entire crop.
I'll tell you how I got the hang of getting strong seedlings of peppers without much hassle.
They say you can't spoil porridge with butter. But it's not always the case. The more you feed the peppers with slurry, the less they will yield.
Low pegs are placed near each bush. As a large number of fruits develop and form on it, they tie it up. The soil around the bush is loosened regularly. Pepper does not like hilling.

Growing a pepper crop is easy if the soil is right and care is taken. Pepper does not need complex and multi-stage care, but it is important to know its strengths and weaknesses. It is then that the harvest of this crop will give you moral satisfaction from the amount grown, and its high quality will supply you with vitamins for a whole year.

Growing bell peppers requires creating competent beds that will allow it to grow unhindered, and make it easier for you to care for it. How many beds you will have and what their size will be, you determine yourself in accordance with the design of the greenhouse. It could also be a greenhouse. However, it is not worth making them too high - it is enough to raise the ground up to 20 cm. The shape of the raised layer can be preserved with the help of sides, on the borders of which we put wooden slats, the height of which should coincide with the garden bed.
The scoop is one of the most common pepper pests. It is difficult to deal with it, since there are a large number of its varieties and the period of release of the larvae is extended for a long time.
Pepper seedlings will delight you with a bountiful harvest, if from time to time hardening with the sun's rays, as well as aeration of the soil (weeding). Therefore, periodic loosening will not hurt.
Add hot peppers and fried garlic.
If you dream of a good harvest of peppers, I advise you not to remove the film from the plants in the garden at all. But on one condition - to air the peppers every day during the hottest time of the day.

If the plants lack iron, then on calcareous, "phosphated" or over-calcified soils, young peppers change color, the tissues between the green veins turn yellow or turn white, becoming, as it were, reticulate.

• It stood out in some year, early autumn. It's freezing in the yard - and my peppers are still full of peppers. I chose the strongest plants and transplanted them into indoor pots. I left the largest peppers on the bushes, and pinched off the smallest flowers. And for some time I had fresh Bulgarian peppers for salads, although not as juicy as from a real garden.
• It goes on a spree, heals the plant, surprising with tops, and not fruits.

Watering
Sweet pepper. Care and growing tips

The length of a bed of bell pepper can be from the beginning to the end of the greenhouse, but it is better to make the width so that it fits two bushes, so that access to each bush will be optimal. The very same distance between plants should ideally be 30 cm, which will provide freedom of ripening.

Aphids and the Colorado potato beetle can harm the plant less, but a high degree of infestation with these pests leads to a slowdown in the growth and deformation of fruits. Moreover, the affected plants become a place for the spread of fungal and viral diseases.

At the sixtieth day, the seedlings can already be planted in the ground. The ideal time for planting pepper seedlings in open ground is the first half of June, because by this period the danger of frost is almost completely reduced.

Pepper pests

Boil rice in a bag. even the bitterness is removed by the chicken egg .. Gently lower the raw (without shell) on a spoon with a grate, cook and remove ...
In this case, the soil in the beds must be loosened shallowly - no more than 5 cm, which will provide air access to the root system.

Sick plants need a shower from a solution with Kemira Kombi or Kemira Lux (1 g per 1 liter of water).
This is the most dangerous pest, literally sucking sap from plants. Chemical methods of struggle - treatment with Iskra, Komandor and others according to the instructions and only before the beginning of fruiting.

When I noticed that the bushes began to shed their leaves, they slowed down in development (in December-January), let them "sleep", watered infrequently - if only they did not dry out. And on February 15-17, I decided to wake them up.
Yu.P. ANANIEV, Samara

The method of planting sweet peppers in plastic containers creates individual, comfortable conditions for the plant. In this case, you do not need the beds, and there will be a constant temperature inside the bag. This will have a positive effect on the yield as the seedlings will not experience daily temperature changes. This method of growing bell peppers is relevant if you cannot make fertile soil in the entire greenhouse for some reason.
To avoid pest infestation of peppers, do not miss the time of their first appearance. Treat the plant immediately if you notice them. After all, only healthy pepper seedlings guarantee a good harvest.
It is necessary to plant the plant in one row, keep the distance between the plants - 30 - 40 cm, and between the rows - 45 - 60 cm. It is undesirable to plant sweet peppers in hot weather, this will lead to the leaves drying out and the plant withering.

Oh, I don’t know, I’m probably not going to help ... sorry for the borscht.
I usually water the peppers with a watering can once every 10 days at the rate of 10 liters per square meter. I take warm water for irrigation - at least 20-25 degrees. And if you overmoisten the soil, you won't have to wait long for diseases of the peppers. Powdery mildew will appear, and plant death is inevitable. However, the lack of moisture also leads to the fall of the ovary. Remember this!

What's going on, "sick"?

I fed them with micronutrient fertilizers and a growth stimulator, my husband hung a fluorescent lamp over them, and the peppers came to life. A few days later, stepchildren appeared on each bush. I let them grow up to 10 centimeters, then cut them off and put them in the water. After a week and a half, roots appeared. While they were growing up, I prepared "apartments" for them - seedling pots. I transplanted the "young" into the ground, covered them with plastic bags to keep them warm. In April-May I took off my bags for a day. Little by little I fed it with mineral fertilizers, and when the snow melted at the dacha and it was possible to get to the pile of mullein, I brought it home a little, and also poured it with a solution.

Bush formation

Precipitation can in no way affect the frequency of watering. They only help the grower by reducing the irrigation rate. An exception may be heavy or heavy rains, which provide as much moisture as when irrigated.

By the way, for the first time this vitamin was isolated from the fruits of pepper. Pepper - originally from the tropics, but also in our climatic conditions, it feels at home thanks to timely and proper care.

Summer residents should remember that, although sweet peppers are unpretentious, they hardly endure transplants. Therefore, it is necessary to place its seedlings in greenhouse conditions directly in peat pots. This planting system is ideal as you will not disturb the plant's root system and will add fertilizer as the peat begins to decompose.

Pepper contains a large amount of ascorbic acid and vitamin A. In terms of vitamin C content, it is ahead of both lemon and black currant.

You can't help borsch. An egg, rice is all useful without it, there is only one way out to eat it like that, if of course you can.

Oleg Fedorovich KRASNOV, Mogilev

If the peppers grow a powerful leaf mass, and the ovary is small, this indicates an excess of nitrogen.

A lot is also bad

It also sucks the juice from the pepper leaves. The method of struggle is spraying with Iskra-Bio when pests appear before fruiting. In any phase of pepper development, treatment with an infusion of garlic or onions and dandelion leaves is also effective (one glass of finely chopped garlic or onions and dandelion leaves is diluted in 10 liters of water, 2 tbsp. L. Liquid soap is added, the plants are filtered and sprayed).

I should have seen what a beautiful seedling I had at the time of planting it in the ground! And she gave more harvest than usual.

Newly appearing stepchildren and flowers that form in the lower part of the plant before its first branching are constantly cut off. They retard the development of the upper part of the bush, on which the main fruit formation takes place.

Sprinkler irrigation is not performed.

Pepper bed

If it turns out that your pepper does not grow in special pots, it should be planted along with a lump of earth that forms around its roots. In this case, 1.5 liters of water must first be poured into the hole. Then the hole must be covered with dry earth. Ideally, sprinkle mulch on top.

The presence of a substance called "rutin" has a beneficial effect on the human blood vessel system.

You don't have to dive

Pinching, that is, pinching the top and removing excess flowers on peppers of such varieties as New Gogoshary, Golden Jubilee, Gold Medal, Gift of Moldova is done as soon as 7-10 fruits are tied, and 12-15 on Kolobok. Then each pepper will receive in full the heat, light and nutrients "due" to it. If you leave the entire ovary, then almost 80 percent of it will go to waste in the fall, since the fruits will not be able to ripen. Extra branches are also removed - they also take away a lot of nutrition from the plant.

The best time to water is in the morning. If it was cold at night, then watered with warm water. If the nights are warm, then in the evening they are watered with warm water settled in a barrel at the rate of 10 liters (bucket) for 15-20 bushes on clay and heavy loamy soils and 1 liter each on sandy and sandy loamy soils. Water only after loosening and very carefully, from a bucket. First, on the one hand, to avoid the formation of a crust around the entire bush, and on the other day, having loosened the side of the bush that was watered the day before, on the other side. This contributes to the uniform development of the root system.

Pepper succeeds in sunny beds, lags behind in growth in the shade, does not yield a crop.

Pepper care in the greenhouse is one, and in the open field is different. If the climatic conditions are such that you can afford to grow a rich crop outdoors, then a greenhouse is not necessary. In any case, even in open ground, some summer residents cover the seedlings with non-woven material, which they stretch over arcs. If it is less than +15 degrees outside, it makes sense to cover the impromptu greenhouse with a film so that condensation does not fall on the plants.

If you take sweet peppers every day with food, it will improve hair growth, vision, and skin.

Constant access to sunlight will allow the plant to develop and grow normally. In order for the pepper to develop well, carry out additional lighting, provide the seedlings with a 12-hour day.

Let's do without dampness

You can add a spoonful of sugar ...

There is an unusual way to get more squat and strong pepper seedlings. It was shown by graduates from Hadlow Agricultural College at the Chelsea Flower Show in the UK.

Potassium oversaturation is evidenced by small, dark green leaves.
An excess of nitrogen fertilizers can lead to the reproduction of aphids and the accumulation of large doses of nitrates in the fruits of the pepper.

Fruit picking

It is best to keep the peppers under lutrasil all summer. In any weather, it maintains an ideal microclimate in the greenhouse, saves from heat and cold, does not allow the soil to dry out.

Top dressing

The best precursors for pepper are cucumber, peas, beans, beans, cabbage, and table vegetables. Peppers cannot be placed after potatoes and tomatoes. Soil cultivation for growing peppers begins in the fall, immediately after harvesting the previous crop. The plot is freed from plant residues, manure or compost is applied at the rate of one bucket per sq. m with the addition of 20-30 g of superphosphate. They dig to a depth of 20-25 cm.

Only those plants that have reached the age of 60 days can be outdoors. It should be planted at a distance of 40-50 cm. Otherwise, the bushes will be cramped.

The plant does not tolerate strong winds or drafts; you cannot plant it in partial shade. In such conditions, it will stretch in length, which will interfere with the normal development and fruiting of the plant.

Should you remove the pepper now?

Misha Chaikin

I'm afraid that no matter how

Hedgehog

It turned out that if you gently brush the plants with a cardboard or hand back and forth (no more than 20 times a day), the plants will grow squat and strong. The method was called "light touch". Its "authors" believe that when irritated by touch, ethylene gas is released from the leaves, which stops plant growth. This method is effective for seedlings of flowers and vegetables.

VinOlga

Not sparing water, pour the peppers and feed them with ammophos - 15 - 20 g per 10 liters of water.
Slugs
The first fruits of the pepper are not removed until they reach technical ripeness. Excessive injury to the bush affects its fruiting. Collecting unripe fruits, the stalks of which do not come off well (ripe fruit is easily removed), can damage the stem or part of it, on which many ovaries have formed by this time, capable of growing into large fleshy fruits in 2-3 weeks.

Tatiana Artsivenko

Cool down - cover

It's me

Two weeks after planting in the ground, the first feeding is carried out (one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate per 10 liters of water, one liter for each bush). The second top dressing is during the period of mass flowering: one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, one matchbox of superphosphate and one teaspoon of potassium salt or potassium sulfate. All this is dissolved in 10 liters of water and watered with 1 liter under the bush. The third feeding is given when the fruits on the first branch have reached technical ripeness, at the rate of two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate and two teaspoons of potassium salt or potassium sulfate.
In the spring, as soon as the soil is ripe and stops smearing, they start digging. If organic fertilizers have not been applied since autumn, then the soil is fertilized (a glass of ash on a bucket of humus). They dig to a shallower depth than in the fall, carefully selecting weeds and pest larvae (beetles, wireworms, etc.).

Urgently! cooked borsch, and the Bulgarian pepper turned out to be bitter. how to remove bitterness? dilute the broth late. thanks in advance

Marina

Competent cultivation of bell peppers in film greenhouses will allow you to consistently harvest a good harvest from each bush of any variety. What do you need to do for this? Water on time, loosen the soil, tie up in time, remove weeds, fertilize and pinch.

Yury Dolgoruky

Pepper contains K, Na, Fe, Zn, Mg, I and is a necessary component for baldness, manifestations of osteoporosis, and a low level of the body's immune defense.

Super Man

If you want to grow a bountiful harvest of pepper, then it is necessary to take into account the fact that this plant needs a warm soil. To do this, process the beds and raise them to a level of 40 to 70 cm. Timely weeding will help the pepper develop faster.

Dr. House

Add everything that was advised to you. and throw it away because it will already be a trash heap

Elena Egorova

Divide and Conquer!

Kibalchish

Poorly developing apical buds indicate an excess of calcium.

So strange

The slugs eat the leaves and damage the fruit. Pollination of the soil with ground hot pepper or dry mustard (1 tsp per square meter) helps to fight them. In the fight against pests, foliar fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (10 g per 10 l of water) and airing greenhouses are also good.

Kandelo

The main fruit formation begins from late July - early August. Therefore, correctly and in a timely manner, prepare the plant for mass fruiting. August is the most favorable month for mass fruiting. From the first fruits of the pepper, which were formed in June-July, quality seeds are obtained for future sowing. The pepper can be left on, if possible until October 15th. However, pepper does not tolerate frost on the soil.

TATYANA

Closer to autumn, pepper plants should be protected from the first frost.

Palusik and Janusik

If the seedlings are lagging behind in growth after feeding, every morning or evening for a week do foliar feeding with urea at the rate of two to three teaspoons per 10 liters of water. If it is not possible to feed daily, then one or two feeding is carried out at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water from a sprayer or from a watering can with a grid.

The beds are made during the spring digging. On heavy, cold soils, they should be high in order to warm up well and provide water and air conditions.