From what sewed clothes Slavs. Slavic clothing. Ritual suit. Hats and hairstyles

The tribute is also mentioned frankish Slavs were paid in the χ-χ of the eyelids and the web 7, and at Prosneald (OCR. Lutskau in the pool) will be found approximately Ιχ-χ centimes linen bag with chopped silver.

Wool and wool fabrics Also mentioned in the oldest translations of the Bible and in Russian texts of the XI century 8. Finds of woolen tissue remains are quite frequent in the Mogilach9. V-III centuries. BC e. Concerning Cannabis , this culture of Slavs borrowed from the Scythians, which, although they used hemp mainly as a narcotic drug, but at the same time, it was undoubtedly made from its fibers and fabrics, since we know from Herodotus that Cannabis fabrics produced Thracians 10. In East Germany, hemp seeds are archeologically testified by the finds from Villemersdorf already in the period preceding the beginning of a new era. In historical monuments cannabis along with flax is mentioned by the Slavs for the first time since the XI century In the church charter of Prince Yaroslav (§ 24).

Fabrics and fur As this indicates in the 10th century, the general source of Persian geographer and Gardisi11 was the main material from which the Slavs made clothes themselves. The main color of Slavic clothes was white or, with insufficient bleach, gray tone. Everything colored fabrics special red , as well as various luxurious pencing fabrics Slavs received as a result of trade with other countries, primarily with Byzantium and East. But such fabrics could buy or replace only princes or rich people.

Among the imported goods Slavs was silk, appeared At the end of the pagan period entered In the home use of Slavs, what is confirmed by names hedvab and on Harwat: Svila who are ancient and general Slavonic 12.

Ancient name forsilka - Serikcomes from toponym Ser, Sur, Suura, that is, the "people living in raw terrain". In Latini serikum - Sericum - Shelk, Slikus - Seericus - Silkova, It comes from the name of the people selling sulfur silk (seres). Silk began to call serial wool, Serika - SERICA - Wool, and a taled silkworm - Serisian worm.

Silk In Starofrantsom Serge, Sarge (Serge, Sarge), in modern French serge, Serga - Serge, Serga, Sargua, in Portuguese - serzho - Sarja, in Spanish - serga - Sarga., in Romanian - Sarika - Sarica - Shelk.
Silk in ancient men - Sarthen - Sarsche (similar to the word "sari", "Sarzh"), in modern German - Side - Seide.(Related Word: Sudak) . In Dansk - sargy, Sars - Sargie, Sars, in modern English - silk - Silke, in Swedish - Saga, Sars, Silk - Sarge, Sars, Silke.
IN: silk, from Sanskrit - siolets - Sioloc, Sealls - Seolocearlier - Silhouse - Siluc, Ancient Norwegian, Swedish, Danish: silhoux -siluc - Shelk.

The Great Silk Road passed on the territory of the Great Skiffia and Tavria, where on the coast there was a merchant, Old Russian trade g the core-port of Surezh, known in the Greeks, and in Central Asia, like Sughd, modern Sudak in the Crimea. From Surge, silk Chinese fabrics and other goods on the ships were carried to the countries of the Mediterranean and all of Europe.

Sea of \u200b\u200bAzov - called the Slavic Sea, Arabs called the Azov Sea - Bakhr-Sudak - Sea Surozhskoe (sogdia, Sudakskoye ).

In the ancient Muscovia, Sroogly merchants were called Rusichi who traded with the countries of the Mediterranean through the port city Suraration in Tavria but rusichi's srew or harsh goods called Rusichi "products from silk, wool and cotton" (M. Fasmer).

In the sources we read that already in the VIII century, the Balkan Slavs exchanged Greek prisoners on silk clothes, but in 907. We have news and About silk sails in Russian lands 13.

Along with Flaskom, various varieties came to the Slavs Heavy Golden Parcers and Aksmita - Golden or Silver Fabric with divorces as well as light and transparent fabrics Skno and Pestro painted, whose artistian name is witnessed by a part at the end of the pagan period, part of the next centuries. Saga about bookling mentions among the riches of Slavic temples in Korenice on Ruyang —sericum - Shelk , BOMBYCES ET PURPURUM14.

Minor the remains of luxury fabrics are also preserved in the graves, in particular, in the mounds of the south of Kiev, Chernihiv and Poltava province,however, materials on the history of the import of these tissues are sufficiently not yet collected; This question is understood poorly, and its lighting should be the task of future work15.

Exports of tissues in ιχ-χι centuries mostly walked from Byzantium, Trapezund, as well as from Greek Chersonesos to Crimea, but at the same time, many fabrics merchants brought directly from Asia to the trading route, the Swansky (Caspian) Sea and Volga.

Clothing.

Clothing of Slavs. both with its own species and in its separate items significantly differed from the clothes of neighboring peoples, And not only the eastern, but also from the clothes of the Western neighbors - Germans16. This is confirmed by direct historical testimonies available at our disposal.

When in 631, the German king of Dagobert sent to the very right Czech Republic, Ambassador of Siharia, then did not allow the last to himself until while this messenger of Dagobert was not changed and did not appear in front of him in Slavic clothes 17. Similar news related by the end of the pagan period, we have about Pomeranian Slavs.

IN 1124 year assistant Bishop Otona Germann, in order to get into the Sanctuary of the Triglava in the bristle, put on Slavic robe: some kind of cap and cloak 18. Already from this it is clear that the Clothes of the Germans who came to Pomorie was different from the clothes of local Slavs, and the clothing of strangers arrived from East had different from her.

However, the news available at our disposal about the nature of Slavic clothing does not allow to describe it in more detail.

The first is the message to the proof, which says that some slavs do not wear chiton nor rude (trivonion - τριβώνιον) and that they go to one only short pants (anahiridess - άναξύριδες - anxirides) that reach them only before the hip, and that in such clothes they go to battle against enemies19.

From the sculptures that we have the grounds to be considered the pictures of the Slavs of that period, you can only be called the so-called column of Svyatovitis in Krakow, depicting a man in the subsideged caftan, boots and cap; Sculpture from Golzgenderlingen in Württemberg, as well as reliefs in Bamberg and Altenkirchen and bronze statuette from light, Give is very little.

Daksky barbarians on the column of trajan and on the monument at Adamkliss in Dobrudzhe, despite the fact that their clothing is largely similar to Slavic, if there are no other evidence, it is impossible to consider the Slavs II century. Ethnographic material, if you consider numerous influences that have made over the Millennium on folk clothes, you need to use carefully. The detailed consolidated work on clothing is not 28.

Parts of clothes.

Ancient Slavic clothing was not free and did not emphasize the beauty of bodily proportions and movements of the human body. She felt tightly the body was generally severe and only later under Italo-Greek influence became more free and easy.

Men's clothing Icestari consisted of pants, shirts and outerwear - raincoat. Sharovar pants Supported on the hips by the twine, later strap and the ankle was tied. In general, they were narrow, closely adjacent to the body (so depicts of northern barbarians on the ancient sculptures and the oldest frescoes and miniatures), about the same as we see them and today on the Balkan Peninsula or in the Carpathians.

Big, tied by knee Russers pants, and also Czechs are mentioned by Arabic sources, but soon, apparently, was being taken custom to wear pants short, roman-germansky cut , with garter under the knee. Custom close the caviar of the legs with a special topper or wind their dressing. For the designation of the pants wearing only during the day, we encounter three general ancient terms: nogavitsa, Gati (Praslavyansk. Fit) and Sharovari.

Nogavitsa probably meant all kinds of pants at all , but most of all narrow pants, the second - Gati. – wide pants , from the word to go - the road, the path of the third term - trousers east Slavic origin, probably from Scythians31, - also meant wide pants with numerous folds, which describe ibn ruste and the Persian geographer and which, according to Pope Nikolai (866),, according to the example of the Volga Bulgar, were also balkan Slavs32, and the term "sharovar" remained common to all Slavs .

Shoulders and back Ancient Slavs often left untreated and, according to the testimony, the procopy, even in the battle was so. But nevertheless, the conditions of the environment in which they lived, they still forced them to wear clothes, which would cover and the upper half of the body, and, moreover, covered it well.

At the end of the pagan period, we really meet with a number of names speaking these parts of the clothing: rublo, Czech, Sweet, Cup, Sukna, Koshul, Kotya, But we do not always know what the differences were between them, although there are obviously, they still had in the face, its length, sleeveless shape and in grade fabric . In the ancient Slavic sources, one thing is used, then another name corresponding to Greek. Racos-ράκος, Estis-έΣθής, odone-όδόνη, Chiton -χίτων, IMAMION-ίμάάάοο and Latinsk. Vestios - Vestis, from the vehicle, Tunica, Kamisia.

The main part of the clothing, which is simultaneously the bottom, was rubl (Staroslavyansk. RDB, Rukhland, Rukhlyad, Russian. Shubach) - View of a coarse hemp or linen shirt to knees of simple cut, about the same as we know in Germany in the IV century n. e. 33, with gate and sleeves.

In writing monuments, this type of clothing is witnessed From the XII century, and the analogies in the images of the barbarians on the monument in Adamaklissa, and the role played by shirt in the Slavic village, for example, during the funeral, point to Her deep antiquity. As ancient origin and czech but the difference between them is unclear. Most likely, the case meant the same as Rubaha31.

Princely clothes of the XI century

Starting from the time of the Roman era in the Carpathian lands a lot appears small fasteners, made in Roman workshops, which indicates the frequent wearing of clothes from lightweight materials connected by the neck or on the shoulder clasp. It is very likely that together with the metal clasms, Romans to the Slavs crossed and the clothes itself – short and light tunic , to whose clasp and was. I do not want to say that the Slavs did not know short shoes at all, but it is no doubt that since the Roman era and under Roman, and in the east Byzantine, influence and The Slavs entered a short light loose tunic, And along with her and others jackets and small raincoats.

Such a short shirt, often decorated with luxurious border, was Slavic asshole, schohanka (shirt), mentioned in the sources most often in the XI century 35. Such was also suknya, Sukno, Sukman (Czech Sukne), which, as the Word itself shows, was a tunic more coarse, made of sukna . The same was Koshul. This is a new name (from Latin Casula) for light bottom clothes richer classes began to replace the ancient names czech and Rubash 36. The chronicler of the goat Prague at the beginning of the XII century already leads the saying: "Camisia Proprior Sit Corpori Quam Tunica" 37.

However, small fasteners in the IX and X centuries mostly disappeared, And the shirt (Koshul), the schooner and climb taught the neck of the ribbon Or fastened to buttons. About embroidered shirts - Koshuli (Camisiae Aurifigio Ornatae) mentions Herbor, speaking of Pomeranian Slavs38.

On top of these light attires of the Slavs in the X and XI centuries worn heavier upper clothes . Such an upper clothes in the nature of its material could be primarily suknya, And we know that she performed this role in later centuries. Along with Sukney, a number of other species have arisen outerwear with sleeves and sleeves. These clothes, if they had a cut in front, worn as modern raincoats or coats, in or stretched through the head and fastened at the neck buttons or loovers. To this heavy overhead clothing made of coarse materials, applies first of all. slavic retinue.

Sweet - Long Slavic Jacket , the name of which in the ancient Slavic translations correspond to the Greek chiton - χίτων, έσθής, but also ίμάτιον. The retinue was done with the sleeves, and we wore it in the XI century in Russia, where she was kept and understood (in Ukraine); Wearing it in the Balkans39. Varvara Ancient Dakia, shown on the monument in Adamklissa and on the column of Trajan in Rome, also depicted in jackets, resembling a retinue Based on what prof. Benkovsky concluded that This is the image of Slavs. - The conclusion that in itself is possible, and is faithful, but to confirm which the costume depicted on the relief, similar to the check, is insufficient. Already in the X and XI centuries, Slavs have existed a number of other types of outerwear - long-channel, fastened on a row of buttons or loops, with lowered or standing collars, pulled by the belt.

This piece of clothing was called Kabat, Zafan . The origin of all these names is not Slavic, and East or Greek41, and since in Russian graves along with buttons and collars from such clothes often find the remnants of foreign richly broken heavy embroidered fabrics , then I suppose these species long overhead clothes In general, came to the Slavs from other marriage, part of the Byzantium, part of the same from the East. Such clothes decorated on the chest by loovers and shued in the waist belt, We see in the drawings of the Bulgarian in the Vatican Menology, on the images of the Bulgarian in Psaltre from the library of St. Marcas especially good on a number portraits of Russian princes and their families In particular, on the already mentioned Portrait in the "Izbornik" Svyatoslav (1073), In the image family of Prince Yaroslav on the fresco of the temple of St. Sofia , on the ancient portraits of the princes Boris and Gleb and others42.

Ibn Fadlan also confirms that in the 10th century, Russian Slavs differed from the Scandinavian merchants long jackets 43. And there is no doubt that both more luxurious clothes of Byzantium and the East adopted in the East and South, and in the West, they adopted more magnificent shoes and jackets of Italian-German origin. When the bishop Otton bamber arrived to pomorsky Slavanym To turn them into Christianity, he, along with other gifts of the veins with his own and rare fabrics and clothes that Pokorna gave to them, adding gold belts and embroidered shoes44.

Luxurious long tunic is represented on an idol in Arcone, A long concerned caftan on the so-called statue of the Sanctuary in the Krakow Academy.

In general, a foreign influence on Slavic clothes from the time when Slavs came into contact with Rome, Tsargrad, and in the east with Bulgarians, Khazars and Pechenegs, was very strong. This influence has affected the corrugated classes that old clothes provided to wear ordinary people, although foreign products appear in the latter. From the south and east came, in particular, clothes from silk, heavy golden brocade and asthma, and they also came with a number of clothes names with which we meet in the late centuries, as well as a number of names of expensive fabrics and details of clothing46. Slavic princes In general, all ceremonial clothing at the Byzantine yard.

Mentioned above top Clothes Slavs Fried Fur Or the fur was fed inside, and then the clothes turned into a fur coat, for the designation of which in the old Slavic language, along with the local name kozhuk was a stranger, east - fur coat A1. Such coats of Slavs began to wear a lot before the southern peoples, and therefore the emperor Nikifor II (963-969) with contempt turned to the Bulgarian ruler: "Tell your dressed in the casing to the boss ..." 48.

Everything Slavic clothes were tightened by the belt (Slavyansk. belt, fell), manufactured from various fabrics and, as a rule, just tied without buckles. On the belt hung a weapon, a bag with a fire, a knife and case with toiletries.

Big Moshna (Vincely Slavic. Sweep) was also a typical affiliation of the Slavic peasant. It should also be noted that mittens 49 witnessed Slavs already in the XI century. The upper half of the body, the simple people defended from rainarian weather and cold what wrap around the entire body a large piece of coarse wool fabric or a whole, properly processed by ram, wolf or a bearish skin. For such capes, the ancient Slavs had a special name plastics (from Lat. Pallium), and for special luxurious fur cape name Corn, Chrzno. Both names are witnessed in the sources of the X and XI centuries.

Of particular interest is the second name, since the diploma II from 937, 970 and 983, we see that polabskie Slavs handed over the Germans (CRUSINA, CRUSNA) for paying tithe50. Slavic Korzno belonged to the number of those things that were borrowed in large quantities germans (Kiirzen) and in general by the population of Western Europe, where later it became known called Soclava, Stlavony, franz. Esclavine, German. Slaveme. It is quite obvious that the Slavs themselves adopted alien cutting closer, especially late Rima and Latezantine Military Camping.

Russian and Czech Luda formed from Scandinavian Lodha, Russian Men from Greek. μαντήλιον, Slavyansk. Kupka, Doll From the lat. Cullus, Slavyansk. gUNA from Latin Greek. Gunna, Γούννα, and Serbian-Bulgarian. sai, Saya, Saic, as N. Kondakov specified, it is nothing more than an ancient Roman sagum - σάγιον51. These raincoats were fixed on the shoulder with a buckle, a fibula or buttice.

It is unclear the origin and form Old Slavic Rise, which already in the X century is witnessed as a kind of some kind of free cape of various colors, assured belt. Riza passed into church clothing of the Orthodox Church, and here the Greek name is its phaylis - φαιλώνης (from the initial φαινώλης) corresponds to Latin Paenula. Later, however, the term "Riza" in individual Slavic languages \u200b\u200bswitched to various parts of clothing52.

Footwear.

On the nature of the shoe, which weavor was worn, preserved more news, there are more and archaeological finds of shoes residues. The first type of shoes were undoubtedly shoes manufactured from a piece of leather The edges of which were a sapon bent and put on top of a scroll, a twine or strap, and, thus, they can be compared with the shoes that Slavs are places and are now worn in the Carpathian mountains and in the Balkans.

Ancient Slavs as well as now, was known KRPCE (KRPCE), Church Slavonic. crapp 56, or opanca, Church Slavonic. Opnotes, while skmak made of scab has long been called lapel (Laptops). Lapties are witnessed in the chronicles already in the XI century, And the ancient Czech legend, recorded from the goat Prague, attributes Lapti from Lyk Already prejezing57.

The shoe is witnessed in the X century Emperor Konstantin Baghrynorogen in Greek transcription servo -σέρβουλα, which corresponds to slavyansky Series - Červj (Cherevyaki, Chereviki, Cherry), Serbsk. Crypll, Bulg. Zharvuli58. It is probably low boots reaching ankle Which refer to the Slavs Persian geographer and Gardisi. St. Vaclav and Voethah, according to old legends, also walked in shoes And the goat Prague under 1087 mentions the shoes from Polandsky Serbs and under 1090 - in the Czech Republic. Latin terms for them - russian - Coturni, Calcia - Calcei, Salzimiment - Calciament - Sandali59.

Good Boots the simple people were not known, but people of the people of classes with foreign articles, in particular, with embellished shoes and low boots with squabbles, which we see on the miniatures of the X century, met early. Embroidered shoes are preserved in the treasury of St. Vaclav in the temple in the old Boleslav, and the same shoes distributed the bishop Otton Bambersky to the Pomeranian nozzles. Boots with squabbles in front and with holes for lacing were found in the graves in the Shargery settlement at Vasilkova (Kiev province).

Along with these shoes and low boots already in the X century Slavs wore high boots without fubs, fully covered legs. We know two ancient names of this kind of shoes: boogne, witnessed in the X century in Rome Catering, in the most ancient translations of the Holy Scriptures, and John, Exarch Bulgarian61, then - sights. About the antiquity of these items speaks their prevalence among the entire Slavs. High boots we also see on the oldest belonging to XI and XII centuries of images of Russian princes, They are witnessed and archaeological finds belonging to the same time62. However, I believe that this kind of shoes is borrowed from the Eastern nomads, in particular, their boots made of green or red leather are borrowed.

Slavs defended the Slavs not only shoes, but also male bandagles or belts. Similarly, shin wrapped in St. Waclav on a miniature of the Tolfenbuttelian Code, where it is depicted in the form of a soldier-sitting soldier with spurs63.

Woolen stockings are witnessed to finds in the graves of the XII century, However, I. "Kopytsha" (kopytytse) of Russian sources of the XI century, obviously, they were short, revenge on the knees of stockings64.

Hairstyle, hats.

For unmarried Slavs, there was an ancient custom to wear long, unprompected hair, combed on the temples, what we see, for example, on the images of the Tungsten Code or on the frescoes of the chapel in Znojmo. If we read in the sources of the end of the pagan period about the Slavs on Ruyan and about Moravans Something is different, then this is only the result of a foreign influence. Ruyan in the XII century shaved his beard, and hair string, moravan, as sources are clearly spoken by sources, following the example of Magyar Beard and mustache Share, and the head briefly squeezed.

Caps of Princes Svyatoslav, Yaroslav and Boris (For miniatures and frescoes) and Bulgarian hat (extreme right) from Vatican Menology.

Slavs have briefly married hair were a sign of slavery, And one who chopped his free man or a beard was punished66. The exception is only russian Prince Svyatoslav, which, judging by the description of the Lion of Dacon (IX, II), brill's beard and head, leaving only a strand of hair breathing from his head, and dense mustache.

Braided braids in men What men were worn by the Ural Altai peoples (for example, Avara, Mongols, Magyars), the ancient Slavs are not witnessed, and the current traces of this custom can be attributed due to foreign influence67. However, spit were typical successful Slavic girls.

Beard, As far as we can trace, it was combed differently. So, we read about the Russian Slavs that they were a beard of Shalli either in the pigties, Svyatoslav wore a mustache. The same mustache depicted in the princes on the oldest coins, while the princes on Russian miniatures are depicted with big beards. Czechs, according to the oldest legends, also wore beards, but on miniatures of the Tolfenbuttoral Code, along with eyelady beards and mustes, we see and shaved faces. The same can be seen on the frescoes of the chapel in Znight, depicting the scenes with the prejudge.

Baltic Slavs on Ruyang Borish Borish, and only the head priest of Svyatirat wore long hair and a long beard68. Thus, uniformity in the manner wearing a mustache and the beard was not, Nevertheless, a big beard ("Brother") and long mustache on the eve Xi century There were most typical for Slavs.

On the head of the man we wore various types of caps, the analogies of which we can trace the Western Slavs only from the XIII century. Eastern and South Slavs, Mainly the princes, already from the X and XI centuries we see high and low hats with fur shame and headphones, sometimes with a tip ahead to attach pen69. That some types of these hats were specifically Slavic, we judge Ebon about German Geriman, who, wanting to penetrate the temple of God's Treaglava in the bristle, put on himself slavic Cloak and Hat (Pilliolum Barbaricum) 70.

Slavs admirated and also wore hats of foreign origin and cutting. This, in any case, indicates a headdress, known under the overall Slavonic name klobuk (from Turkk. Kalpak), which is witnessed Slavs from the XI century, as well as the general Slavonic name chapka, cap, passing from the medieval Latin term kappa - sarra Denotic headdress of Western origin71.

Cap of the Grand Duke Vladimir Monomakh

Archaeological data is very small, except for the excellent, but relating to a later period - the end of the XII century, cap of Prince Vladimir Monomakh 72. In excavations, hats are rare. Antonovich in Zhytomyr burlories found near the skulls of a piece of birch bark, covered with cloth and decorated with beads.

Clothes prince really expensive made of expensive fabrics embroidered gold and silver and decorated with golden lace 75, there were often alien origin, and it is quite natural that such clothes acquired only the princes, especially for those cases when they had to appear in front of the people during large celebrations. True, such clothes are known only in eastern and South Slavs and only at the first time after the adoption of Christianity, but it is no doubt that those Slavic princes that were in close connections with the East and Tsargrad, something similar to the adoption of Christianity.

First well-known paradinary clothes of the Balkan and Russian princes, As N. Kondakov showed in its study the most ancient images of Russian princes 76, are almost complete reproduction of the ceremonial cavity of the Byzantine yard. Princes lay on the head crown (or so-called stemma a metal hoop with two cross-in-law metal arcs upstairs on which the cross was strengthened, or Luxurious, trimmed with fur hat with a cross up ), put on a long long, with a wide border (Διβητήσιον) on the alert Tunic, pulled in the waist belt , then purple cloak (χλαμύς, σάγιον, σαγομαντίον), fastened on the right shoulder or on the chest.

Here, judging by miniatures, especially in the Tungsten Code, the princes on their clothes were always closer to the people. Although their clothes and sewed from expensive fabrics, but it was easier and shorter than Byzantine.

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1. Lavrentievsky chronicle, 18, 23, 57 (PVL, 156, 86, 95, 97, 115). First, the Khazara Brahi tribute from Russian tribes in protein, then Varyagi - in black cunitsa; drevlyan also paid Olga tribute to furs. The same was in Poland (Długosz, Ed. Przedziecki, 1.56), and in the Frankish Slavs (Kętrzyński, about Słowianach, 37), and Serbo Croatov (KLAIC, "RAD" SV. 157, 1904; Jirecek, Gesch. D . Serb., 1.151).

2. Chronicles under 945, 955, 1068, 1115 years. And we read about Czech and Polish princes in 1135 (Annales Pegavienses, MON. GERM., SER. XVI.257).

3. In Czech diplomas from 1046, 1057, 1088. PELLOFLCES ALBI ET NIGRI, SUTORES MARDURINARUM PELLIUM - KOSELUG; CM. Friedrich, Codex Dipl., 1.56, 360, 384) and Kozma 1.5 (Coriorum Sutores), 11.11 (Sutores Pellium Diver Sarum).

4. "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 409. The term for the notation of the felt (Church Slavonic - PLAST) Also is an ancient general Slavonic word. However, for the period to the XIV century. Neither literary nor archaeological data should have been certified ("ZIV. St. Slov.", I, 411).

5. CR. Lon, Greek. λίνον, Latin. Linum, Iranc. Ϊ́ΐη, kimr. Lliain, Breton. Lien, Starionenec. Lin, Lithuank. Linai, Slavyansk. flavor.

6. Jbrahim (ED. Westberg), 54; Helmold, 1.12, 14, 38.

7. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 409-410; III, 333 (Libra Lini, Toppus Lini). Slavic cloth, which was paid to tribute, most often marked the terms paltena, Palta, Phalta, as well as Pannus de Lino expressions, Lodex Lini.

8. Cancer Prince Svyatoslav, "Life of Feodosia" Nestor and Chronicle 980 Year ("źiv. St. Slov.", I, 410).

9. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 410-411.

10. Herod., Iv.74.

11. A.G. Tuman. On an unknown Persian geographer. Zap. Vost. Departure I. R. Arch. Society. X.135 and ed. V. Bartold, 123.

12. Title Hedvab. , Church Slavonic godovabl , adopted from the German Godawebbi, Gudawebi, while svila. it is the local name ("ziv. St. Slov.", I, 412-413). Another Slavic name, namely Schölky (from the XII century), most likely, oriental origin.

13. Nikeph., Breviarum. ED. Boor, 76; Lavrentievsky chronicle, 31 (PVL, 1.25).

14. MON. germ. Script., XXIX.314.

15. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 412-417.

16. Ancient Slavic names for the designation of clothes, in addition to other local names, were: rudge, rhylad, clothes, robes, ports ("ŹIV. St. Slov.", I, 436).

17. Fredegar, Chron., Iv.68. 18EBBO, 11.13; See also, as in 1138 german princess Christian ridiculed Polish clothes (Boguchwał, II.31; Bielowski, MON. POLON. HIST., II.519).

19. Procop., Bell. Goth., 111.14.

20. Garkavi, Decree. Op., 93, 98. See the translation of prof. R. Dvorakka in "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 378.

21. Garkavi, decree. Op., 193, 221, 269; Gardi (ED. Bartold), 123; Persian geographer (ed. Togansky), 135, 136; Ibrahim (ED. Westberg), 59. [approx. Czech, Editorial: In "Manuel", P.66-67 The text of the Netherle is translated as follows: "Un Chroniqueur Tres Important, Ibrahim Ibn Jakub, Observe Seulement Que Les Slaves Portent Desumements Sont Et Que Leurs Pantalons Sont Etroits Dans Le Bas». However, T. Kovalsky "Relacja Ibrahima IBN Jakuba Z Podroz'y Do Krajów Słowianskych W Przekazie Al Bekriego" (Kraków), 1946, on s. 52 We read: "Ubieraja Się W Szaty Przestronne, Tylko Mankiety Ich Rękawów Są Obcisłe" ( they dress in loose clothes, and only cuffs of their nasal sleeves) . Thus, we are not talking about sharovar, but only about the sleeves.

22. "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", 1,424. The most interesting among them is the news of the so-called Austrian chronicle of the beginning of the XIV century., In which it is described (verse 20020 next) that prince Carinthia, joining the reign, According to the old tradition, enchanting folk clothes. This outfit was made Gray cloth sharovars, shoes attached by straps; Gray cloth jacket without collar, with cuts from behind and in front, length to knees; then gray cloak made from a whole piece And on the head gray hat with four colored brushes (MON. GERM., Deutsche Chroniken, v.265).

23. Adam, 11.18; Helmold, 1.1.

24. Compiled by the orders of Emma, \u200b\u200bBoloBollava II (967-999). Now is in Wolfenbuttel.

25. PROF. A. Matychek in Pamatkach Arch., 1915, 208.

26. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 430-432. The Gertruda Code is stored in Cividal and was written by order of Archbishop Egbert (977-993). It came to him several sheets written for polish Princess Gertruda, Mother Yaropolk. See the publication of the city of Zauseda and Gaseloff (Trier, 1901) and the study of N. Kondakov, the image of the Russian princely family in the miniatures of the XI century. (PB., 1906). For dedication miniature of "Izborrika" Svyatoslav (Fig. On p. 321), see the "Ancientifications of the Russian State", Depth. IV, No. 2. Other separate images of Russian princes in a traditional festive attire represent a smaller interest ("źiv. St. Slov.", I, 430-433).

27. Reproduction from the Venetian Psaltery has been published repeatedly. See ch. Diehl, Manuel d'Artbyz. (Paris, 1910), 376 and LabARTE, HIST, DES Arts, Planches II, PI. LXXXV. Portrait of Menology (Fig. On p. 324), see "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I. Annex IV.

30. Kosmas, 1.36. Latin terms for them - Braccae, Femoralia. Calga - Caligae. originally mean some kind of shoes, but later in Czech and other languages \u200b\u200bacquired importance Trousers (Czech Kalhoty). Russian ports also initially meant clothes generally moreover, even upper clothes ("ZIV. St. Slov.", I, 436).

31. Julius Polydeukes, VII.59; X.168. See also Hesychioss. v., Isidorius, Origines, XIX, 23.

32. "Responsa Nicolai", LIX, ED. MANSI, SACR. CONC., XV.421.

33. See HEYNE drawing, Deutsche HausaltertTimer, III.257. See also Primitive Greek Hitona (Studniczka, Beitrage Zur Gesch. Der Altgriech. Tracht, Wien, 1886, 13).

34. "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 444.

35. Word SRAKA, Version Sorka Apparently, adopted from the Sarca Middle Lenthinsky (Wed and Germans. Serkr, Sarkó). See in "źiv. ST. Slov. ", I, 446-447, where other data about the ass and cloth. Word Sukne, Suknya later came to the West of Europe (Old Franc. Soucanie, Sous QUENIE, etc., German. suckente) , Greece (σσυκανία) and to the Hungary (Szoknya).

36. Word Koshul appears in sources from the XI century. In the same period, in the eastern and southern sources, another type of tunic is referred to Kotyga (from Latinsk. Cotuca - Tunica Clerici) For example, see "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 450-451.

37. Kosmas, 111.58. 38. Herbord, 11.27.

40. P. BIEńKOWSKI, COMPTES RENDUS DU III CONGRES DES HISTORIENS POLONAIS (CRACOWIE, 1900).

41. General Slavonic kabat from Greek. καβάδιον, καβάδες, καβάδι and osm. Kaba. . See Already at Constantine Bagranogenic "De Ceremoniis", II.52. (See Ebersolt, Les Arts, 70); Tzupan from Greek. ζιπούνι and wasm. Zubun or Augm, Arabsk. Dzubbah.

42. "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 432, 454.

43. Garkavi, decree. Op., 94. 44. Herbord, II.28, 29, III. one.

45. SAXO GRAM. (ED. Holder), 565; See "źiv. ST. Slov. ", II, 144, 145.

46. \u200b\u200b"źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 414, 456, 460-461. Ancient Slavonic Names for Buttons - GOMB and PDGA, PDGAA (PQGY, PQGUA) Greek origin and happened from comvos - όόμβος - node; POUNGES - πουγγί - Bag, Latin. punga. Many material on this issue gathered P. Savvititov in the book "Description of vintage Russian utensils, clothes, weapons ..."

47. Casing - from the word leather ; the word fur coat came through the Germans, formed from Arabic dzubbah which Gardisi refers to the X century. Like clothes of Bratasov and Magyar (Ed. Bartold, 121, 122).

48. Leon Diacon, IV.5. 49 "źiv. ST. Slov., I, 452, 458. For the local distribution of buckles, see below, in the section on decorations.

50. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 471. However, the ratio of Slavic rzno to Vernenemian Chrusina, chursinna is still unclear.

51. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 473.

52. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 476-480. See also V. Jagiće, EnttehungsGeschichte der Kirchenslawischen Sprache, II ed., 321 Next., 392.

53. The same shoes are depicted on Czech miniatures of the XIV century. ("Źiv. St. Slov.", I, 481).

54. Name of female dress climb (Souquenille, in Starofrance. Sousquanie) also went to the west to France, What are the evidence relating to the XII and XIII centuries. (Partonopeus de Blois, Guillaume de Lorris, Gautier de Coincy etc., CP. "ZIV. St. Slov.", I, 483.

55 "źiv. ST. Slov. ", I, 485.

56. Antiquity Wordes crapp It is already visible from the fact that it is common to a number of Indo-European languages \u200b\u200b(Greek. κρηπίς, lat. carpiskulum latvians, kigre) . Term footwear is also ancient and general Slavonic .

57. Lavrentievsky chronicle under 985 year (PVL, 1.59); Kosmas, 1.7.

58. Const. Porph., De ADM. imp., 32; "Cresll" in the meaning corresponding to Greek. ύποδήματα, we read in Rome graders ιχ χ centuries., Term "Cherevni" we encounter Russian sources of the XI century. ("ZIV. ST. SLOV.", 1.488).

59. Gardi (ED. Bartold), 23; Unknown Persian geographer (ed. Tumsky), 135; FONTES RER. Bohem., 1.131, 241, 318; Kosmas, 11.39, 42.

60. Herbord, 11.28. 61. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 489 (corresponds to Greek. Ύπόδημα).

62. In posts russian archaeologists We often meet the mention of "The remains of the shoes" found in the grave But for them you can not install, what kind of shoes are we talking about. In Shargorod were found leather shoes and half boots In the other places and whole sewn boots with toe, bent up, and seam on the sole or on the side ("Źiv. St. Slov.", I, 491-492).

63. See Fig. on s. 244. 64. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 493.

65. SAXO GRAM., XIV (ED. Holder), 565; Mr. Theotmara Archbishop from 900 g. (Friedrich, Cod. Dipl. Bohem., 1.32); About Hungary See Luitprand, MON. Germ. Hist. Script., 111.351.

66. "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 495.

67. We know this about avary and Magyarah. On the gravestone stone figures of the Turkic Tatar origin are also depicted warriors with three sinking braids ("Źiv. St. Slov.", I, 406).

68. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 497. 69." źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 499-500; Table. II according to "Izborzer".

70. EBBO, II. 13.

71 "ZIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 503, 504. In the" Life of St. Theodosius »Nestor is mentioned braided hoods. In separate localities hood means a luxurious hat , and in the translations of the Holy Scripture it corresponds to Greek. Kitaris - κίταρις or tiara - τίαρα.

72. "źIV. ST. Slov. ", I, 522, and in the anconditions of Ross. State, II, Table. 1-2; Kondakov and Tolstoy, Russian antiquities, V.40, see Fig. 28.

Shirt - The oldest, most beloved and widespread clothes of the ancient Slavs was a shirt. Languages \u200b\u200bwrite that its name comes from the root of "rub" - "a piece, cut, scraps of the fabric" - and (crushing the word "chopping", who had once also to "cut". We must think, the history of Slavic shirt really began in The depths of the eyelids with a simple piece of fabric, frightened in half, equipped with a hole for the head and a fastened belt. Then the back and front began to sew, they added sleeves. Scientists call such cut "tunic" and argue that he was about the same for all segments of the population, changed only The material and character of the finish. The simple people wore mostly shirts of linen fabrics, sometimes sewed them from the "Tsatra" - fabrics from goat fluff. Rich, noble people could afford their shirts from imported silk, and not later than the XIII century from Asia began Cotton fabric. In Russia, it was called "Send".
Another name of the shirt in Russian was "shirt", "Fucking", "Stolchitsa". This is a very old word, akin to the Old Screen "Serk" and the Anglo-Saxon "Syork" through common Indo-European roots. Some researchers see the difference between the shirt and the shirt. Long shirt, they write, was made of more coarse and thick matter, while short and light shirt are made of thinner and soft. So gradually she turned into a lingerie ("Soroch", "Cover"), and the upper shirt became called "Koshuli", "prode". But this also happened later, in the XIII century.
The men's shirt of the ancient Slavs was about knee-length. She was always rejected, while twitched, so it turned out something like a bag for the necessary items. Scientists write that the coarse shoes were somewhat shorter than peasant. Women's shirts usually crumbled to the floor (according to some authors, hence the "Hem"). They also necessarily rejected, while the lower edge most often turned out to be in the middle of the caviar. Sometimes, during work, shirts pulled up and knee.

Gate. "A shirt, who directly adjusted to the body, sewed with endless magical precautions, because she had to not only warm, but also to drive the power of evil, but to hold the soul in the body. So, when the gates were crumbled, the carved flap was certainly dragged into the future apparel: the "inside" movement marked the preservation, accumulation of vitality, "outward" - cost, loss. This latter was trying in every way to avoid not to bring trouble on a person.
According to the ancients, there was some way or another to "secure" the necessary holes, which had been in finished clothes: gates, hem, sleeves. An embroidery containing all sacred images and magic characters served here. The pagan meaning of folk embroidery is very well traced from the oldest samples to quite modern work, no wonder scientists consider embroidery an important source in the study of ancient religion. This topic is truly immense, it is devoted to her a huge number of scientific papers Slavic shoes did not have postponed collars. Sometimes you can restore something similar to the modern "rack". Most often, the incision at the gate was made by direct - in the middle of the chest, but there were also oblique, right or left. .
Got out the goal on the button. Buttons in archaeological finds are dominated by bronze and copper, but the researchers believe that the metal is just better preserved in the ground. In life, probably more often met from simple girlfriend - bones and wood.
It is easy to guess that the gate was especially "magically important" detail of the clothes - after all, it was through it in the event of death a soul flew out. Wheging whenever possible to prevent this, the gate so richly equipped with a protective embroidery (sometimes contained - of course, those who were able to afford it - the golden sewing, pearls and precious stones), that over time he turned into a separate "shoe" part Clothes - "Necklace" ("What is worn around the throat") or "Fool". It was sewn, fastened or put on separately. In the Decoration section, it is described in more detail about the campaign sense of jewelry and about why people tried to acquire gold and noble stones in the chest and hiding them in the chest, but they were placed on their own body.

Trousers At first glance, it seems an integral, simply necessary part of a male costume. However, it was (and yes) not all nations and not always. For example, in ancient Rome, the pants were considered "barbaric" clothes, which the "noble" Roman was worn was indecent. Gallia (modern France) The Romans were called not only "Gluff Komat" - "Cosmaya Galli", because of the custom of the Salt's local warriors to go into battle with raised hair, but also "Gallium Bratteat" - "Galli-B-pants", since Unlike Romans, the Celts wore pants. The researchers believe that this type of clothing was listed in Europe, including the Slavs, nomads of ancient times and originally appeared due to the need to ride. Slavic pants were not too wide: they face the preserved images. They cried them out of direct cloths, and between the pants ("in the step") inserted a lastician - for the convenience of walking: if you neglect this detail, I would have to minimize, and not to walk. Scientists write that the pants were made approximately an ankle long and the legs were refilled in Onuchi.
Are pants decorated? If you believe the image of the IV century (part of historians believe that Slavs or the ancestors of the Slavs are depicted there - they could be covered with embroidery in front and below. But there are no other data about it.
The cut of the pants did not have, and on the hips were kept with the help of a lace - "Gasnika", inserted under the cooling and crawled upper edge. "Gachas" or "gazes", the ancient Slavs called the first legs actually, then the skin from the rear legs of the beast, and then pants. "Gacha" in the sense of the "pantina" in some places and until now. Now it is clear that the meaning of the modern expression "keep in the honeycomb" is clear, that is, in the most secluded cache. Indeed, hidden behind the cord for pants was covered not only by the upper clothes, but also a shirt, which was not filled into pants. Latest Ukrainian suit in this sense is an exception.
Another name of the clothes for the legs is "Powers", as well as the "Nogologists".
The experts of the Russian language are written that the word "pants" came to us from Turkic languages \u200b\u200bin about the XVII century and was originally uttered "Shtona", which is closer to the original.
And "pants" entered into use only under Peter I. This word is borrowed from Germanic languages, and those, in turn, once awarded the Celto-ancient Roman "marriage", which denoted all the same "barbaric" feet clothes.

Belt. Even at the beginning of the 20th century, the belt was an integral part of Slavic clothing: everyday, festive, ritual. A wide variety of patterned belts in 1920 violence on weekdays and holidays, adults and children, men and women. Women wore a belt on the waist on top of the apron or under the breast. Men are high under the breast, on the stomach or below the abdomen, while driving it around the mill at least two times.

Tied the belt node in front or with a side to make the ends bend on 20-40cm and more. The method of imposing belts indicated their length that varies from 1.5 to 4m., Individual belts reach 5-6m. The width of the belt is also different, usually the casual shirt is subjected to a thin half-breed belt (22mm) or a veterus (specially woven rope). The festive shirt was subjected to multi-colored, with a genital charging symbolism with a vertex belt (44.45mm), and a ritual shirt with a wide belt of 1.5-2 tops (6.5-88,9mm).
The belt in traditional clothing is explained not only to the functional necessity, but also endowed with a deep symbolic meaning. The rusting of the belt means the willingness to act and the ability of these acts to implement.
The belt wearing also binds to the moral appearance of a person. The absence of the belt was seen as a violation of the general behavioral norms. To this day, the words "break down, tincturing, etc." have a negative meaning.
The belt as part of a person's clothing take-out the shape of the circle was used everywhere as a guard. It was believed that the subcommunicative person "the demon is afraid", the removal of the belt meant an introduction to the otherworldly world, to unclean strength, etc.
Therefore, the belt was filmed when the fern flower is mined on the night of the celebration of God's Day Kupala in search of treas.
With the help of the belt establishes the relationship between its own and someone else's space, old and new home. So in Belarusians when switching to a new home, the owner pulls all family members for the belt. When the girl was ready to marry a well-done whom she was watched, she gave him the poverty.
The magical properties of the belt, fastening the union of the young, was used in the wedding rite: the belt was tied up the bride and the bride, thereby connecting them into one. The belt was given to the musicians at the wedding, the parents of the bride and guests. Entering after the wedding in the groom's hut, the bride threw a belt to the oven (showing the houses that she was a new mistress). To the table of young led on the belt. In the first days after the fun, young walking occasion, laying the poverty on a debris. Screened with hut tie a belt on a broom. There is information that sometimes the bride distributed more than a hundred belly at the wedding.
The belt was associated with the first brazing henge. When you first pasture livestock in the field of the Eastern Slavs, it was customary to spread the belt, more often red. He was also tied to cow's horns, put to the shepherds in the bags. The first furrow led the horse for the belt. When buying livestock, it was introduced into a new house through the belt. In the Vladimir province at that moment, they sentenced: "Forget the old owner, get used to the new one."
In the Slavic tradition, the belt is a source of vitality. It has adopting and fertilizing properties. In the Tambov province with the aim of laying a boy's young to her knees to her knees, she kissed him and gave Daril Belt. If the belt with the image of the "bunny" guess his spouse during pregnancy, then it will give birth only boys, the successors of the kind. A wide male belt was roaming baby. The belt with the genital charging symbolism is a kind of filter that protects a person from negative influences from outside: damage, evil eye, bad wishes, etc.
The fabric properties of the zone of the signs could increase certain conspiracy if necessary.

For the manufacture of belts, various methods and techniques were used. The most colorful and a variety of ornaments are distinguished by a shuffle belt woven on the nita, bero or superchalter.

Lapties - At all times, our ancestors willingly shovel in Laptati - "Lapti", "Lychanets", "Lychaki", "Snapped boots", - and, despite the name, often woven not only from a scroll, but also from berers and even from leather straps. Practiced and "hiding" (stitching) of squeezes. Methods for weaving the lapes - for example, in a straight cage or in oblique, from the heel or from the sock - there were their own from each tribe and up to the start of our century they were varied by regions. Thus, the ancient venati preferred Napti oblique weaving, Novgorod Slovenia - also, but mostly from the berers and with lower sidelights. But Polyana, Drevlyan, Dregovichi, Radmichi, apparently, wore Napti into a straight cage. The lapels were considered a lot of work, which men were literally "between the case." It's not for nothing about a hard man with a hard and now they say that he, they say, "Lyk does not knit", that is, is not capable of elementary actions. But, "linking Lyko", a man provided shoes with the whole family - there were no special workshops for a very long time. In archaeological excavations, the remnants of hundreds of laps, blanks and tools for weaving are found in the set.
They made knockers from bones (from animal roother) or metal. Scientists found kocheyski, made more ... in the Stone Age. On the deep antiquity of the lapes testifies, by the way, such an episode. Old Believers- "Kerzhaki" who lived in the Urals in the XIX century, Nooda did not wear. But the dead were buried exclusively in the noodles.
The lapties were distributed not only in the Eastern and Western Slavs, but also in some non-Slavic peoples of the forest strip - the Finno-Thieves and Balts, in part of the Germans.
The lapties were attached to the leg using long strip-leather "turnrooms" or rope "favors". The strings crossed several times on the shin, grabping onuchi.
The cheapness, availability, ease and hygienicity of such shoes do not require evidence. Another thing is, as practice is evidenced, Lapty had a very low service life. In winter, they walked over ten days, after thawed - four, in summer, in the suffering, - and at all for three. Collecting on the far path, they took with me not one pair of spare laps. "On the way to go - five of the feet of wept" - said the proverb. And our neighbors there were even the term "lapot mile" - the distance that can be passed in one pair of lapes. How many birchs and a flasher needed for the centuries to shove the whole people? Simple calculations show: if our ancestors were diligently cut the trees for the sake of the cortex (as it, alas, was done in later times), birchings and lime forests would disappear in the prehistoric era. It is difficult, however, assume that the pagans, with reverence, belonged to the trees, received such a dugheads. Most likely, they owned various ways to take part of the cortex, do not lick wood. Ethnographers write - such techniques were known, for example, to the American Indians who managed to shoot Cra with the same birch every few years ...
Or the whole secret is that, according to the authoritative opinion of scientists, most of the people - both in the cities and in the village - from snow to the snow went mostly barefoot.

The originality of national clothes Slavs

Culture and special energy of the Slavic people are embodied in Slavic clothes. And in this Slavs showed their harmonious relationship with the universe.

Slavic motifs in clothes

Modernity chants Russian beauty and inherent tenderness, innocence, romance and charm. Dresses in the floor and all sorts of variations of hairstyles with braids are already inseparable from a modern female image.

Slavs have always been distinguished by the life-giving fire of spirituality, intelligence, kindness and nobility
Slavic beauty has always attracted attention to both men and women

Slavic clothing or how else is called Scythian, leads to the excitement of many eminent designers: ranging from Yves Saint Laurent and ending with Zarina, Galliano, Valentino collections.

The luxury of ethnic embroidery and accessories captured with their magnificence of many fashionistas.

In Slavic clothes, embroidery played not only an decorated role, but she was considered a faith for home, family, for soul and health

That is why the Slavic Boho style appeared, uniting the simplicity of Slavic motives and modern trends. So what is the Slavic style? Ritual clothing or peasant outfit? Both are true. Initially, the applied clothes made from natural fabrics was designed for rites and reunion with natural forces, ancient Skif gods. And only after - this is an overlap with skillfully embroidered symbolism.

Slavic clothing with symbols - Soul style and spirit protection

Slavic symbolism

Scythian style symbols are an association of lines in rhombus and triangles, smooth stitches go into the spirals and combine in a circle. It is significant for a person, because it is not only embroidery, as part of the decor, and this is an embroidery-guard, who gives a person with the ability to resist the evil rock and develop its spiritual potential.

Slavic embroidery protects, brings good luck and happiness

National Symbols of Eastern Slavs:

• Cross like a symbol of the sun. Means the confrontation of evil rock and the saturation of the light energy of life.
• Svarga as the sky symbol. Svarga of the right focus speaks of the path to happiness. Inverted Svarga (Swastube) has the opposite value and departs the owner in the whirlpool of trouble.
• Circle as a symbol of solar energy.
• Ruju - symbolizes life.
• Rhombus - harmony with nature, fertility.
• Romovnik - the symbol of thunder and worship Perun.
• Tree - longevity.
• Spirals - wisdom.
• Horn is abundance, as a symbol of material wealth.
• The triangle is associated with man.

In addition to the ritual embroidery, the clothes of the eastern Slavic peoples were complemented by embroidery floral ornaments.

Slavic patterns - symbol of spring revival of female beauty

So, on the shirts of newborns and young guys, the time of the centuries was made to embroider the oak as a symbol of male energy, and Kalina, meaning the immortality of the genus. Embroidered poppy meant grief over a killed relative. Ornaments with grapes symbolized in the Slavs the growth of the family, the appearance of heirs.

"Heavenly" beliefs of Slavs, among which the agricultural cult of the Sun is distinguished, embodied in symbolic signs, peculiar embroidery

On the maidial dresses, our ancestors embroidered lily, which symbolized the innocence and purity of their owners.

Slavic ornament is characterized by its originality, proximity to nature

Clothes of youth decorated with patterned patterns, which symbolized unrestrained fun.

Barwin symbolizes all-standing vitality

The symbol of love for the Slavs was considered a rose. And it is not surprising that the roses embroidered wedding trees, wishing to the youthful endless love.

Color solutions

Slavic style characterizes some monotony. Mixing a set of colors is unacceptable here. Like the selected symbolism, and the color tells about many. Eastern Slavs have no motionless color combinations and mindless associations. Each color carries its symbolism and in the ancient beliefs imposes an imprint on a person's life.

Slavs were very responsible to choose in their life of a color

Traditional colors:

• Black - earth symbol.

• Red - symbolizes love, joy, female beauty and male statism.

• White - the color of innocence and purity.

• Blue - water color as a symbol of spiritual privacy and wealth.

• Green - symbolizes youth and update.

• Yellow - color of well-being.

Accessories

For ethnic accessories of Scythians, animal brings and floral patterns are characteristic. Fabric rims have long complemented the image of Scythian girls. Their functionality was to collect hair, which did not allow strands to be embarrassed from hairstyles and fall on the face.

Accessories in Slavic style are between the norm and excesses

Spit is a symbol of not only beauty, but also purity, health. Framed hair was rarely allowed in hairstyles, but it was allowed to insert the tape into braids, the colors of which spoke about the nature of their carrier.

Slavic beauty - perfectly what is natural

The undoubted attribute of clothes were belts and belts.

Belt with Slavic ornament with double border

Spacious shirts and dresses in the floor were subdivided with wide or thin belts made of natural fabrics or skin. The girls on the hips were often tested with a braid, which was added to the overall silhouette. The minimalism of wicker straps perfectly looked with motley shirts on young girls.

Slavic belts: manually woven with a careful weave of threads, which are like letters from the alphabet add up to a beautiful and powerful conspiracy

Slavic style can be supplemented with decorations in the form of pendants of pagan houses and protective amulets. More wide bracelets and beads are appropriate. For special occasions, in days of celebrations, tissue rims were replaced with jewelry.

Basic wardrobe in Slavic Boho style

For ethno style inherent naturalness and practicality. Modernity imposed a mark on the Slavic style, and supplemented it with glamorous things.

Slavic style as fashion trend

In general, the basic wardrobe of the Slavic stylization must contain the following things:

• Long spacious sundress. It can be a classic dress in the floor or dress type of a shirt, pressed by a strap, p.

Classic outfit in Slavic style

• Maxi skirt. Flying fabrics and multi-tier sewing will complement the romantic image.

Skirt with Slavic Embroidery - a real work of art

• Kelosorotka or peasant tunic. Modern spacious tunic with short sleeves and a soft collar.

Women's Help with Slavic Embroidered Patterns

• Slavic T-shirts are a modern stylization that will complement the youth wardrobe.

T-shirts with Slavic Print - Trend of this season

And if skirts and sundresses exclusively female option, then T-shirts are created for male wardrobe.

Representatives of strong sex can enjoy author's t-shirts with patterns and prints that symbolize the male start.This thing will be the basis for creating ethno style in men.

How to wear

Ethno style dictates its conditions on the combination of textures and colors. Girls in the sranches embraced by the overafs need to forget about the shoes on heels. Eightness will add sandals and ballet shoes.

Ballets in Russian style - a full-fledged accessory to create a Slavic image

In combination with multilayer skirts, famous designers advise to use T-shirts. It can be a monochrome top or top with beads struting on straps. Such an association will emphasize the bulk bag.

Skirts Maxi in Slavic style give the female image of mystery and romanticism

Preferably stop the choice on. The heel is appropriate only in the case when embroidered T-shirts are the base and are rushed with jeans.

Patchwork style bag with Slavic motifs

Dresses advise to combine with leather jackets or denim vertices.

Dresses with elements of Slavic embroidery always attract attention

Tight leggings will create a good duet with a peasant tunic

Slavic Modern Style is not afraid of experiments
Denim shorts and modern embroidery - bold and stylish combination

Slavic T-shirts are the base for the urban image. They are appropriate at a party and in everyday life. In addition to a bright clutch, such a T-shirt may look glamorous.

Clutch with ethnic ornament will complement the image in Slavic style

Men can wear t-shirts, both with jeans, and with Bermuda, more appropriate for summer.

Slavic style gives masculinity to the strong floor

Light leather sandals emphasize the Slavic beginning in the wardrobe. Recreate the stoboyarsky style will help fur.
Boots with bright ethnic embroidery

Wedding fashion

Separate attention deserve wedding outfits in Slavic style. The revival of the images of female ease and male strength has erected the Slavic motifs on the peak of the wedding fashion.

Wedding in Slavic style is very calorite

Wedding dress in Slavic topics looks stylish and creative.

Slavic bride

Since ancient times, traditional wedding outfit consisted of sundress and apron, complemented by a wide belt. The prototype of linen was the lower skirts and a shirt. Wreaths from wildflowers completed the wedding outfit of Slavyanka. Slavic dress for a wedding rite can be red, blue, white, silver or gold colors. Flower embroidery, decorated with beads or rhinestones, make the image of the bride as unearthly. The image of the bride in the Slavic style brings the image of beauties from fairy tales

Future brides can choose a stylized dress of a-silhouette, linen embroidered dress in the floor, an asymmetric dress with ethnic motifs, a dress with a lush skirt and a contrast embroidered bodice. As for the head of the head, in addition to wreaths, you can use a veil, embroidered with lilies or roses, waterfare.

For a winter wedding, a gorgeous solution will be an image with a white fur hat, because it is the Slavs that the fashion was spawned on the fur, which was subsequently flooded with all Europe. Scythian or Russian motifs entered our everyday life.

The image of the bride in the Slavic style every guest will remember forever

Slavic fashion does not know age borders. Young people successfully carry Slavic T-shirts carrying a secret meaning. Girls are apparent to embroidered tunics and sundresses, while women look adequate in linen dresses. The advantage of Boho style is that it perfectly integrates ethnicity into modernity, unites, sometimes impossible, and creates a harmonious appearance.

01.11.2014

Slavic folk costume is not only our national heritage, but also a source of inspiration for modern modeling of clothing and to create stage images in different genres and art of art, and is a bright embodiment of folk art.

Whole items of clothing of the IX-XIII centuries. Until our time has not been preserved, and the main source serve found remnants of clothes and decorations. In addition to archaeological data on the clothes of the Eastern Slavs of this period, several visual sources give the most complete representation.

We will look at the main details of the clothing of the ancient Slavs, and a number of protective ornaments adorning this clothing. Of course, much of the following is controversial, and requires much more detailed study, but ...

So, "the clothes meet ...".

Looking at a man, it was possible to say for sure: what kind of tribe belongs to which locality lives, what position in society has, what does he do, what age he has and even in which country he lives. And looking at the woman, it was possible to understand, she was married or not.

Such a "business card" allowed to immediately decide how to behave with a stranger and what to wait for him.

Today, and in our use, "speaking" details of clothing have been preserved and even whole types of suit that can only wear a member of a certain sexual age or public group.

Now that we pronounce "Obja", it sounds like a spacious, almost like a jargon. Nevertheless, scientists write that in ancient Rus it is "wealthy" used much more often and wider than the term, "clothes" familiar to us simultaneously.

What was the wardrobe of the ancient Rusch?

First of all, clothes are strictly divided into everyday and festive. It varied and the quality of the material and the color scheme.

In addition to the easiest and coarse tissues, there were many tissues of fine production, both local and imported. Of course, the quality of clothing depended on the well-being of its owner - expensive imported silk fabrics could afford not all. But wool and flax were available for all segments of the population.

The fabric was painted with natural dyes - leaves, roots, flowers of plants. So the bark of oak gave a brown color, the roots of the marines - red, nettle with hot collapse - gray, and with cold - green, onion husk - yellow.

Since the time of the ancient Rus "Red" - beautiful, funny, and therefore festive, elegant. In the Russian Folklore, we encounter expressions: "Spring Krasnova, Krasno Girl, Red Beauty (about the beauty of the girl)." The red color was associated with the color of the dawn, fire, all this was associated with life, the growth, the sun.

White. Associated with the idea of \u200b\u200blight, purity and priesthood (white light, white king - above kings king, etc.); At the same time - the color of death, mourning.

Green - vegetation, life.

Black - Earth.

Golden - sun.

Blue - sky, water.

The gold sewing has long been known. The ancient Kievans wore clothes with a lot of golden sewing. The oldest of the famous - the Russian gold embroidery was found by archaeologists in the Kurgan of Prince Black (near Chernigov), and dates back to the tenth century.

Interesting fact:

Slavs are widely known to believe that the first clothing of a person affects his subsequent life. Therefore, the newborn was often taken to a shirt, stitched the oldest woman in the family so that he would inherit her fate and lived for a long time; In the old, the underwritten shirt of his father, "so that he loved him," and for the diapers, we used part of adult clothes so that the child would certainly inherit their positive qualities

The ancient title of clothing was the Slavs "Porticis" - cut (piece of fabric); Hence the word "tailor" - a man sewing clothes. The name it lasted in Russia until the fifteenth century.

Shirt - the oldest, the most beloved and common type of signature clothing in the ancient Slavs. Languages \u200b\u200bwrite that its name comes from the root of "rub" - "a piece, cut, fabric scribe" - and the word "chop", who had ever also to "cut".

Another name of the shirt in the RUS's own language was "shirt", "Fucking", "Schollenka". This is a very old word, akin to the Old Screen "Serk" and the Anglo-Saxon "Syork" through common Indo-European roots.

Long shoes wore noble and older people, shorter - other class, since, in contrast to the measured and leisurely life of the princes and boyars, the weekly of the labor nation were filled with heavy work and the clothes should not have been filled with movements. Women's shirts reached their pack.

Men wore a shirt for the release and necessarily with a belt. Hence, the expression "disappeared" - if a person did not put the belt, they said that he broke down. Festive shirts knewed from expensive thin canvases or silks of bright colors and decorated with embroidery. Despite the conventionality of the ornament pattern, many of its elements were symbolic, they as if protected by a person from another evil eye and misfortune.

The decorations were "mounted" - removable: richly embeed gold, precious stones and pearls. Usually, the ornaments of the coated motifs were embroidered on the shoes: horses, poultry, tree of life, plants and plant ornaments in general, Lanka (emphasis on "and") - anthropomorphic characters, images of the gods ... It should be noted that sometimes embroidered parts have been moved from the old shirt to the new one.

Gate. Slavic Rubs did not have postponed collars. Most often, the incision at the gate was made by direct - in the middle of the chest, but there were also oblique, right or left.

An embroidery containing all sacred images and magic characters served here. The pagan meaning of folk embroidery is very well traced from the oldest samples to quite modern work, no wonder scientists consider embroidery an important source in the study of ancient religion.

Sarafan. The Slavs seized on narrow straps and reminded the semicircle, due to the large number of wedges, strongly expanding the hem.

Sarafanov Non not wearing

We are depreciated from them:

It is necessary eight meters of Citz,

Three coils of ladies ...

Slavs-northerners preferred traditionally red. The central part of Russia was mostly worn over a color blue, paper, purchased matter for their sundresses or a motley (fabric like a chorod). The lower part of the front seam and the hem decorated with stripes from silk ribbons and strips of patterned fabric.

The first mention of Sarafan, or Sarfanz, refers to 1376 in the Nikonovsky chronicle. This word initially indicated the subject of a male costume. The mention of male sundresses is found in vintage songs:

He is not in the fur coat, not in Kaftan,

In a long white sundress ...

Petrovsky decrees of mandatory wearing in the cities of European clothing, Sarafany also wore nobility, and booring, and townsms, and peasants.

In the cool time of the year, Sarafan was put on a slope. She just like Sarafan, expanded down the book and was embroidered by Nebrafts on the bottom and the past. The shrine was put on a shirt with a skirt or on top of a sundress .. Material for shinking was taken more dense, and the festive velvet was sewed, pass and all this was widened by beads, glass, braid, sparkles, ribbon.

Sleeve the shoes could reach such a length that they gathered beautiful folds on her hand and the wrists were collected by braid. Note that at the Scandinavians who wearing the shoes of the similar La Stone in those times, the tie of these testers was considered a sign of gentle attention, hardly an explanation in the love between a woman and a man ...

In festive women's shirts, the ribbons on the sleeves were replaced with stem (fastening) bracelets - "hoops", "hoops". Sleeves like her shoes were a lot longer hand, they reached the earth in a pretty form. Everyone remembers the magic fairy tales about the birds of the birds: the hero, it happens, kidnates wonderful outfits. As well as a fairy tale about the princess frog: no longer role plays flourishing the sleeve in it. That's really, a fairy tale is a lie, yes in it hid. In this case, there is a hint of ritual women's clothing of pagan times, on clothing for hostess and witchcraft.

Belt in Slavic outfits, there were both women and men.

Slavic women woven woven and knitted belts. The belt is long, with embroidery and fringe at the ends tied under the breasts over the sundress.

But the belt belt from the most ancient pore was one of the most important symbols of male prestige - women did not wear them ever. I will not forget that almost every free adult man was potentially a warrior, namely the belt was considered hardly the main sign of military dignity.

The belt was also called "Opoyskaya" or "lower back".

Special glory used the belt from the skin of a wild tour. The strip of the skin for such a belt was trying to get straight on the hunt when the beast had already received a deadly wound, but did not yet empty the Spirit. We must think, these belts were a decent rarity, were very dangerous were mighty and fearless forest bulls.

Trousers slavs were not too broad: on the preserved images, they described their leg. Cried them from straight cloth. Scientists write that the pants were made approximately an ankle long and on the legs were refilled in onchuchi - long, wide bands of fabric (canvas or wool), which turned the leg below the knee.

Another name of the clothes for the legs is "Powers", as well as the "Nogologists".

The ports, narrowed by the ankles, sewered from the canvas, the noble men were even alone - Silk or Sukonny. They were tightened on the belt with a cord - a cup (hence and the expression "keep something in the honeycomb"). The ports refuel into the boots from colored leather, often embroidered with the patterns or wrapped on onuchi (pieces of the web), and lapties were put on, in the ears of which the strings were launched - Obuchi, they were wounded.

Lapties at all times, our ancestors were woven not only from the scroll, but also from berers and even from leather straps. They were thick and thin, dark and bright, simple and woven with patterns, there were also elegant - from the tinted multicolored scroll.

The lapties were attached to the leg with the help of long strings - leather "turnrooms" or rope "Tips". The strings crossed several times on the shin, grabping onuchi.

"How to brass," our ancestors spoke about something very simple and uncomplicated.

Lapti had a very low service life. Collecting on the far path, they took with me not one pair of spare laps. "On the way to go - five of the feet of wept" - said the proverb.

Leather shoes it was mostly urban luxury. One of the main types of shoes of Slavs VI-IX centuries. There were no doubt shoes. In the general Slavonic period, they were called cravings.

Most often, shoes worked on Onuchi, who are men on top of pants, and women - right on her bare leg.

Male headdress slavs, most likely, called the cap. This very time itself came across scientist exclusively in the princely certificates of will, where it was discussed about this sign of dignity. Only after 1951, when the archaeologists were found birchy diplomas, and science received an unprecedented opportunity to look into the daily life of a simple people, it became clear that the "cap" called not only the princely regalia, but also a male headdress. But the princely cap was sometimes called "hood".

It is best known to researchers from a special cut cap - hemispherical, made of bright matter, with a sharp of precious fur. In such caps are dressed, stone and wooden idols, preserved from the pagan times, we see the images of Slavic princes that have come down to us. No wonder in RUS's language there is an expression "Cap of Monomakh".

The frescoes on the stairs of the Sofia Cathedral in Kiev and the XII century bracelet are also preserved: they depict musicians in the isothechic caps. Archaeologists were found billets for such a cap: two triangular slices of the skin, which the master was not going to sew together.

To a slightly later era include the felted caps discovered during excavations, as well as light summer, woven from thin pine roots.

It can be assumed that the ancient Slavs wore a wide variety of fur, leather, felted, wicker caps. And they did not forget to shoot them not only at the sight of the prince, but simply when meeting with the senior, a respected person - for example, with its own parents.

Female headdress Winning a woman from evil forces - believed Slavs.

It was believed that magical vitality was concluded in the hair; Frameless maidens are capable of having a future husband, while a woman with a uncoated head can bring trouble, damage to people, cattle, harvest. During thunderstorms, it can kill it thunder, as it is believing, it becomes easy prey and the extinguishing of the unclean strength on which thunder arrows are focused. The expression "promoted" meant disgraced his genus.

Before marriage, the headdress (at least in the summer) did not cover the crown, leaving the hair open. At the same time, the girl's hair was rushed out, appeal, it was not only not necessary, "but even welcomed others. Good braid was hardly the main decoration of the maiden in Ukraine, in Belarus, in Russia

Little girls wore alone cloths on the forehead, or from a fine metal ribbon. They did such a whims from silver, less often - from bronze, at the ends arranged hooks or ears for a lace, which was tied on the back of the head.

Mortuary, together with a shorter, they received the "beauty" - the girl's crown. He was also called "felt" - "bandage", from "ridic" - "knit." This bandage was expanded as elegant, sometimes, when wept, even gold.

The Masters-Blacksmiths were decorated with a whores of the ornament and gave them a different form, including the expansion on the forehead, like the Byzantine diadems. Archaeological finds also confirmed the deep antiquity of Slavic maiden whiskers. Wreath on the girl's head is, first of all, walked from the evil eye, unclean strength. At the same time, the circle is both a marriage symbol, no wonder with the marriage of the youngsters, on the wedding - around the analia. If the girl dreamed of a dream about the loss of a wreath, she expected troubles for himself. If the girl before the wedding lost innocence, she was deprived of a wreath at a wedding, as a sign of my shame could put half.

The wreath of artificial flowers, the threads were often dressed on the hat and the bridegroom, protecting it from the wedding lessons (finishing, frozen - to smooth, spoil). Flowers for a wedding wreath were used strictly defined: Rosemary, Barwin, Samshat, Kalina, Ruta, Laurel, Vine grape. In addition to flowers, it was sometimes sewn or embedded in it: red wool threads, onions, garlic, pepper, bread, oats, coins, sugar, raisins, ring. By the way, the overwhelming of young grains and money when meeting the crown, too, is primarily an observed, and only then the lyrical meaning of the wishes of fertility and wealth.

The headdress of the "muted" woman certainly covered the hair completely. This custom was associated with faith in magical power. The groom wondered his chief on his head covered and was made, so her husband and Mr. Indeed, one of the oldest Slavic names of the headdress of a married - "Bea" and "Lubus" - mean, in particular, "covered", "Towel", "Shawl". "Beam" means more "what he woofs."

Another kind of headdress is married - Kika. The distinctive approach of Kiki was ... Horn, who protruded up the forehead. The horns are the defense of the mother and its future child from evil forces. They like a female cow, sacred for the Slavs.

In the cold season, women of all ages covered their head with a warm handkerchief.

Outerwear slavs are a touch, from the word "twist -" wear "," Bulk ", as well as caftan and fur coat. The retinue was put on the head. She was sewn from the cloth, with narrow long sleeves, knees were necessarily closed, and rejected by a wide belt. Kaftans were the most different kinds and destination: casual, for riding, festive - stitched from expensive fabrics, intricately decorated.

In addition to the cloth, a favorite and popular material for the manufacture of warm clothes, the Slavs were isolated. Furies were a lot: the fur beast was in abundance in the forests. Rusky fur enjoyed deserved glory and in Western Europe, and in the East.

Subsequently, long-propelled covers began to call "Tulupami" or "fur coats", and those that were knee-length or shorter, "stripes".

Everything that us now has - was received from our ancestors, they gave it, and we have improved it. We do not have to forget our story. All reasoning about the national idea is meaningless if they are not based on the understanding of the foundation of this commonality.

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With vi in. The term of the Ants finally disappears from the History Arena. But in the historical descriptions of Slavs, foreigners are actively used by the name "Ros" or "Rus".

In the VI century On average, the subseposition has developed a powerful Union of Slavic tribes, part of which was a dew tribe, whose name is associated with the Rosh River, the influx of the Middle Dnieper. The Union was included in Northerners, some of the ancient tribes - Polyana, possibly other tribes, which geographically much expanded the boundaries of the primary dew tribe.

The "Tale of Bygone Years" defines the circle of Slavic tribal unions, in the VII-VIII centuries. Coming in Russia: Polyana, Drevlyan, Polokhan, Dregovichi, Northerners, Volynian, to which in the IX century. Novgorod joined. Each of the chronicle tribes was formed on its cultural basis. The Ethnocultural Base of Volynan was the Prague culture and the late culture of Luke-Ryakovetskaya; The basis of the Drevlyan - the culture of the Kurgan burials and partly Luke-Ryakovetskaya (the last rules for the basis of the discense and tivers); Northerners - Romenskaya culture; Radmichi - Culture of Kurgan burials. The most complex was the cultural base of the middle subway. In the VI-VIII Art. It included the components of three cultures: Prague, Penkovskaya and Kolomiye, and later, in the VIII centuries, - Luka-Ryakovets and Volyntsovsky.

In fact, all the diverse cultures of the Eastern Slavs were closed on the small territory of the middle subway. And, therefore, it is not by chance that the Kiev region became not only the center of the formation of intergovernmental formations, but also the ethnogenetic center of the Slavs-Ukrainian and their states - Kievan Rus, the association of all the tribes created the prerequisites for the formation of a single cultural basis (a single tradition of clothing culture), and the tribal structure Predefined the regional and multivariate traditional and consumer culture. So, the epicenter of the Russian land was the average subway, which in the natural conditions and fertile lands was a kind of Okumen for farmers since the time of the Eneolyt, the late tribes of the Scythians-Paralei ─ Praslavan, as well as the core Slavic forest-steppe zone of Chernyakhovsky culture.

The general features of the ritual symbolism in different manifestations of material culture preserved tribes that were alternating in this territory in different historical conditions. Solar and mooner symbolism with the ritual magic center of Great Pramatera took place through the century and the millennium, embodied in the images of tripolian ornaments and anthropomorphic plastic, in the elements of the bronze era, in the system of accommodation of the Scythian decorations, in painting on the ritual vessel of Chernyakhov culture, in the enamel sets of decorations Cultures of the Kiev tribes, in fibulas and spiralose temporal suspension ants. These traditions did not violate the new Slavic Association of Rosov. All this composed of centuries, the traditional of figurative thinking was reflected on clothes, which at the stage of close relations with Byzanthythia, new features gained, while maintaining its agricultural traditions and original culture. Considering the main aspects of the robes of the Slavs of the VI-VIII centuries. According to written mentions, research of well-known costumes and archaeological materials, one can detect the characteristic signs of clothing of this period. Against the background of the general Slavonic integration, starting with the VI century. The ethnic expressiveness of individual East Slavic tribes - Volynyan, Drevlyan, Polyan, Plugs, Tiversev, Northerners, Radmich, Dregovich, is becoming more noticeable to the formation of clothes. It also consisted of two ethnocultural coordinates: on the one hand, the general Slavonic basis was originated, realizing in the same type of clothing and systems of complexes, on the other - the ethnocultural peculiarity of individual tribes was most relief manifested itself in the decoration of clothing, in the system of jewelry and in the ways of their wearing. With the main traditional components of the complexes of clothing inherent in East Slavic tribes, at all, the bright aesthetic completion of the image was added to the sample decorations ─ the original signs of each individual tribe, which was included in the Slavic "Russian" community. In terms of purpose, the sets of tribal jewelry were performed the same faithful function in all Slavs, and the place of their location was specifically designated. However, the difference was in the way they are wearing and in the forms of the most suspension.

In the VI-VII century. The majority of the population of Slavs wore clothes from household tissues as a product of a closed cycle of natural peasant farm.

In each family, regardless of the social status of the woman was engaged in spinning and weaving. Over time, wealthy townsquarters and women of the feudal top have become passive participants in this process: they only controlled the work of subordinate weaves. In peasant families before the beginning of the XX century. It remained traditional, mandatory for all women the process of manufacturing tissues. On the horizontal weaving machine "Curros" from flax, hemp and wool made tissues of various varieties of linen, sarry and patterned weave.

Linen fabric and prefabricated soft, thin cannabis was wanked on the manufacture of a naval clothing, shirts, curtains (varanniks), cradles, towels, cavice and covered. The stringent cannabis mate was used for tailoring trousers, some kinds of outerwear, bags.

Linen and hemp fabrics were used both in the folk and feudal-denunciation of everyday life: they were sewn and used as a lining for the upper overhead.

In addition to the above-mentioned raw materials, the Slavs have long been used wool for the manufacture of tissues, of which they sew mostly the upper shoulder and waist clothing.

With multi-colored yarn, which was stained with vegetable dyes of local origin, clips Striped spare parts, checkered plates, belts, fabrics for skirts, dresses, raincoats, etc.

With coarse household Sukna-Sermya and felt - the peasants sewed warm upper clothes like suite. "Like a felt product and coarse wool fabric, and cloudy production existed in the old Kievan Rus before the adoption of the cross" (F. Vovk).

The popularity among feudal tops acquire imported silk and thin woolen fabrics from which a rich outfit is manufactured.

If in the VI-VII century. Silk bridge fabrics prevailed, already at the beginning of the VIII century. The first Byzantine fabrics appear: gold and silver brocade, velvet (looping brocade, M. Fehner).

In the clothes of the vehicle, the color of the non-white and bleached canvas with partial use of red, black and gray shades prevailed with partially and brown-gray shades.

The citizens of the citizens and a wealthy nobility were distinguished by polychromine of contrasting colors. For this, household linen and wool fabrics painted with plant dyes of local origin in saturated red, blue, green and yellow colors. Such fabrics were called "crashin". They sewed suite, caftans, dresses, crap, which were decorated with bridal outdoor fabrics and ribps.

Slavs' clothing was socially differentiated, it was different only by the number of components and quality of the material. However, crate clothes from the peasants, citizens and feudalists were the same. The peasants wore linseed and hemp shirts, wealthy ─ from bridal silk or thin soft plane.

For warm, winter types of clothing traditionally used skin and fur. The poor wore sheepskin Tulup, the feudal tip is expensive top clothes from beavers, fools, sable, which covered the Byzantine Pavoloki from above.

The common name of the clothing - "Ports" is known since the time of Prince Oleg (the beginning of the X century, Oleg Treaty with Byzantium). The Praslavan authenticity of this term should have deeper roots, as well as types of clothing, which are matured independently from each other in the depths of the life and culture of farmers. It is possible that it is the "ports" (portion ─ a piece of fabric) were called all kinds of predominantly princely clothing (according to mentions in the chronicles), sewn from high-quality, bleached household fabric. With the amplification of contacts with Byzantium and the appearance of silk and gold oil, some forms of clothing are modified. The feudal-princely tip gradually refuses the "non-mode" domain fabrics. Perhaps, then the term "ports", which from the X-xi century, is supplanted in the clothes of Slavic. Partially changed by the Byzantine word "rises". However, as the archaic name "Ports" has been preserved much longer in peasant clothes. In addition, it was identified by some elements of clothing (Russian "ports", "spheres").

In written sources of the XII century. It is often mentioned simple, poor clothing "Rub", "Rubish", which, according to A. Arzikhovsky, was also the general Slavonic name of a set of clothing of commoners ─ shirts and household trousers. The semantics of this word retained its essence in later definitions. So, in Ukraine, the word "Rubish" means "rags" (F. Vovk). In Russia, there is also an expression "dressed in a rubish", i.e. The last poor man. According to the old Slavonic concept, the word "rub" meant a piece of fabric (I. Cresnevsky). So, the clothes that stitched from the "rub off" could also have the identical name "rub". Drown in the rags of the poor man in the XIX century. Saved the name "Rubish". Confirmation of the archaicity of this word is the name of the Ukrainian Iron ─ Rubel, which the peasants "ironed" ready-made canvas and towels. The Slavic word "Rubakha" (from "Rub") on the definition of a native clothing of the poor was preserved in Russia as the general name of this outfit. The word "shirt" (from Latin "Sagsa", F. Vovk) was borrowed. They used the feudal to know to stand out among the funerals. Sorochka became a full clothing of class top. This name was subsequently finally established in Ukraine in folk clothes.

Rubahi

The main type of clothing of all layers of the population of Slavs were shirts (shirts). According to studies of ethnographers of the XIX-XX centuries, the shirts were different in a constructive solution. Power shirts consisted of direct solid cloths from the collar to the hem. Such shirts were mostly ritual: wedding, festive or posthumous. The shirt "to the apparatus" had two parts: the top - "camp, the machine, the tear" and the lower, actually "apply". There were also shorter shirts that were worn separately: "Outlochery" and the lower part is "fading". On Croy, they were tunicidal, sewn from one blurred panels. Because it was not wide enough, straight or wedge-shaped sidewalls were sewed on the sides below.

The sleeves were non-sturdes, straight, often much longer hand. They performed the role of gloves: defended their hands from the cold. So that the sleeves did not interfere with working, they were picked up, "shoved", and on holidays - they picked up on the elbow to the assembly and the wrists held the bracelet. Such a multifunctional shape of the sleeves was the result of life experience, adaptation to the conditions of the harsh climate.

The men's shirt was without a collar, with a rounded or rectangular neckline. Sometimes there was a small incision and fastened at the neck for one buttons, she was called "Golossomy". Decorated with embroidery or midges in the neck, cut, sleeves and aged. The men's shirt was shorter than women's. She came only to his knees. They wore her breath, riding a woven or leather belt with a metal buckle and decorations. The belt was not delayed, which created the upper part of the shirt above the waist in the form of a transverse fold. Walking irrigible was considered indecent. Hence the expression "roused" - looked around.

Men's native clothes were complemented by non-stroke pants with a rectangular insertion. In the belt stretched the scurry and tied in front of the waist. Pants were filled in high seasy socks - nogavitsa, shoes or boots or topped with their spots and fastened to the leg of thickly surrounded with straps from pistons, lapes or liesch. The shirt and pants were basic clothing.

Unlike the male, the women's shirt was longer, to the feet, had the same tunicidal cut, long sleeves. In addition to practical properties, women's sleeves, fascinated to the Earth (image on silver bracelets of the XII century), had a magical meaning in the ancient pagan rites "Rusalia." The collar of the female shirt firmly faced the neck or climbed on the neck under the firm "RUN". The front of the shirt had a small incision and fastened to the button. Around the collar, as well as in the cut on the chest, the shirt was embroidered preferably red or weathered with a narrow strip of colored fabric. The shirt was a blank clothing. It was necessarily gicked by a subtle rope belt-guard with an indispensable naughty.

Outerwear

Simple Slavs on top of the shirt wore ancient waist plate-type clothing like plates, panya or wrappers, destroy, represented by the unstituted rectangular boards that the body was wrapped behind. Calling in front, the boards formed a big cut. Panova consisted of two or three panels fortified on the belt strap-screk (plates with wings; Reconstruction of Ya. Podlipko of the female dress on the materials of the cherry grave of the Scythian time). Pan-plastic outfits, universal in their simplicity and variability of use, worn only women. The symbolic checkered decor of the plates responded to the ancient eneolytic fertility signs (plowed on the squares and the snowy field, Tripolsky "Rhombus"). Girls who have reached puberty, when initiating, could symbolically put on the fee - dedication to the virginity. Flags as a symbol of fertility had to protect the sacred pieces of the girl's body, giving them the strength of fertility of the future woman. Back in the XIX century. The ritual of putting on Panov is preserved, sometimes before the wedding itself (M. Rabinovich).

The presence in one of the burials on the Zhytomyr region residues of the organic matter of red-purple color at the bottom of the skeleton confirms the fact of the belt-like type of Pan or skirt. The remains of the fabric are preserved at the pelvic bones, these were spiral twisted threads, possibly silk (V. Antonovich).

Ancient, mostly girl's clothing was a curtain (bars) - a view of a sewed clothing, fabric boards, peroxided over his shoulder, with a rounded hole for the head. On both sides they were lying around or simply shocked on the waist of the belt, as well as the fee, the curtain did shorter clothes to open the decorative cash of the shirt. Ancient top clothing was also a brand - type of short shirt with wide short sleeves.

Clothing of the townspeople was different from the clothes of peasants with multicomplexity and quality of the fabric. On the lower shirt was put on top of silk or wool fabric. About the top shirt is mentioned in the chronicles as an integral part of a rich costume. In order not to be confused in the names of these two similar on the cut elements of the clothes (the name of the upper shirt of that time is not preserved), we turn to the Vine Slavonic identifying terminology. "Board" - a piece of fabric, "dlytic" - the name of the canvas. So, conditionally let's call the top shirt "Dress" according to the principle: "rub" - "Rubish", "Platas" - "Dress", that is, sewn from the "board".

The presence of an upper dress is confirmed by the residue of organic dust of black, brown or purple colors in the burials of the Slavs, as well as the location of the buttons on skeletons (based on the materials of the V. Antonovich's excavation on the settlements of the Drevlyan).

Upper clothes were sewed from woolen or silk fabric, the collar was swayed with silk ribbon, pursed by gold and silver threads, or a ribbon with the Byzantine brocade with a pattern of gold-based zero filaments. On the chest, the clothes had a cut (small sinus), bounded by a patterned cloth (L. Kuda). The collar was fastened at the neck on one or three buttons with belt loops. Buttons-beads could be silver, bronze, carnelian, glass, pasta, mainly rounded shape and pear-shaped.

To the upper warm shoulder clothing includes a casing or Tulup, the remnants of which found V. Antonovich in the two mounds of MiniNIV. The collar of this clothing was fastened by the neck with a special clasp, which consisted of a silver or bronze ring, beads and a belt loop (having).

In both cases, on the remnants of the dress and Tulupa, the upper outline is traced: a deaf, undetended, literal on the cut, which was worn through the head, fastened from the neck for one or three buttons and necessarily shocked (remnants of woven and belt belts found S. Gamchenko in Zhytomyr Mogynomin At the village Golovko, yesterday, rude).

If Tulupe and dress are the types of winter and summer clothes, then the sweet, like intermediate seasonal clothes, logically fits into this series. This makes it possible to conditionally reduce the topless shoulder clothing into one typological scheme, the completion of it on fundamentally constructive solutions.

Upper cloak clothing

top

The most common form was arapist - a sleeveless raincoat, stitched from a dense linen or a fabric, which was thrown on his shoulders and looked around the neck. "It was the most popular kind of cloak clothing of Slavs, who was worn away from death to Prince" (M. Rabinovich). The difference was only as a fabric and in the materials from which the fibulas were made. Wealthy Slavs were cloaking with silver fibulas, and ordinary people tied his node. Other famous views of the cloaks ─ Mattle, Kisa (Kock), Luda. Sweets are mentioned in the chronicle sources of the XI century, but their long-standing origin is no doubt. About the cut of this type of outerwear there is almost no information. Judging by the archaeological excavations, later images and ethnographic studies, suits in the VI-VIII century. They were not swollen, but a deaf type of upper outfit, length to the ICR, tightly easily faced the body, sometimes had a postponed collar and cuffs-challenges. Sewed swees from woolen fabrics.

If the dress was worn only women, then housings, Tulup and Sweets were worn and women and men of all segments of the population, Corzino (Skut) ─ were popular mainly in the princely medium.

The remnants of the painted land and the location of the fasteners are almost always in one place: just below the shoulder or in the middle of the chest. Cloaks were knee-length (S. Gamchenko).

Hats and hairstyles

The heads of men were hoods and hats made of wool or fur. To maintain their shape, they were led or laid on a birch bark (Beresto).

Headdres of Slavic women were very diverse, as evidenced by the materials of archaeological excavations and ethnographic studies of the Ukrainian, Russian and Belarusian folk costume. It is a set of decorations, shape and decor of hats and a color gamut of clothing. Separate breeding groups of VI-VIII Art.

The problem of reconstruction of the headdresses of Slavs was engaged in D. Zelenin, A. Arzikhovsky, Yu. Saburov, M. Rabinovich, Maslova, B. Rybakov and others. Scientists singled out three types of hats: a towel (remotion, markup), kikopodibni (horned) and solid "Kokoshniki" (Coruna). The complexity of the designs of the species had a combined hats, where cools or kits with ubolls or removal with soft caps (L. Chizhikov) were combined.

Maiden headdresses provided an open head of the crown around the crown, the crowns were metallic, made only from the twisted wire (Girls of the Kurgan), or covered with a wool cloth in the form of a roller, or it was a leather strap with rings strung on the head (Zhytomyr burial ground).

If necessary, maintaining loose hair originated typical Slavic girls hats: various bandages made of fabrics, silk ribbons, ribbon. The remains of Berestov (burial on Volyn) in combination with wool tissue confirm the presence of a solid headdress - the boron (crown). On his outer side, the silver rings, glass gilded beads, in the middle - one big bead from the carnelian.

Often, the front part of the boron did high and especially lush adorned by the Byzantine silk or gold matters. Maiden headwear supplemented with temporal pendants. The hair was decorated with numerous beads, buckets, silver and bronze rings of different diameters and ribbons. The purely Slavic decoration was the temporal various rings and pendants, which not only clung to the crown, but also in the hair in the temples. For this, the hair was broken into a direct sample, small pigtails were selected from the temples in which the rings were promoted. These braids wwelled into the braids or picked up behind, hiding under the crown. In addition to temporal braids, interesting details were recorded hairstyles: the hair was taught in the form of a loop in front of the ear down from the temple, protecting the skin of the face when wearing large metal temporal rings (M. Saburov). Similar hairstyle "In connection" at the beginning of the XIX century. On the Right Bank of Dnieper described F. Vovk: perpendicular to the direct probor did another one, on the pattern. The front strands were combed on the sides of the head and laid out in the form of a loop - worst, the ends of which were laid behind the ears under the braids.

In this hairstyle, the traditions of wearing temporal rings are preserved. There were also more complex combinations of woven temporal decorations on both sides of the head. Two, three and more rings of different diameters were stripped on her hair or clinging for hair loops so that the rings hang brilliant openwork tassels.

In addition to the temporal rings, Slavic women wore earrings that put on in the ears or riding a few pieces on a leather strap and attached to the roaming (L. Kud).

For the same purpose, headphones were used in the form of small circles made of fine colored leather, as prescribed and symbolic filling are associated with the Anti-Silver "ears" from the treasures of small rust and Martynovka. At the edges of the soft ears there were holes for hanging Sera, called ingun or hacks. Fucked "ears" with evousses to a crown or boron.

The female headdress was formed on the basis of ancient pagan beliefs and rites, which obliges women to carefully hide their hair ─ hidden, magical power of a woman. Hiding the hair, women did not have the right to braid it into braids. The hair was spinning and laid under the "top" - "theme" (it was observed in the XIX century. In the Ryazan lips.).

According to the traditional scheme, the headdress of a married woman consisted of the occipital part (herring), covered with neck, and dark, on which they necessarily have thrown out the bedspread or put on a soft curly "horned" cap or a tower.

The remains of such hats, called "occipient" hats, found V. Antonovich and S. Gamchenko during excavations in the territory of the settlement of the Ridge. Forms and proportions of this type of clothes can be traced behind clay images of female heads found in the territories of Kiev (Castle Mountain) and Pereyaslav. Carefully laid hair did not need the jewelry used by the girls. All symbolic family faithful signs of a woman clingly outwardly only on a headdress. The temporal rings were attached to the ears or temples, as can be seen on clay images. This corresponds to the second type of classification M. Saberova - wearing decorations with married women.

Slavic headdiers can be divided into solid - bark, crowns and soft - remotion, backbone, diverse, a variety of "horned" caps, cape pickles.

Soft cape peppers worked on their hair and tightly tightened on the back of the strings. The dummy, stitched from lightweight fabric and decorated with silk or golden "man" and "tick", could wear at home without additional covered. Noncent women wore a bull-haired carcass from zolotone or silver threads. Alternate was worn on top of a hairflower with a white or purple cloth or silk, which was dried around the head, closing the chin. Sometimes the "horned" caps were put on the remotion.

Decoration

The main sign of Slavs VII-VIII century. There were tribal decorations that preserve the traditions of separately taken tribes, at the time included in the tribal association of the Rosov-Predaja Group.

Polyana - Ancient definition of the Pridneprovskiy Slavs, the most numerous of all the tribes that occupied the average subway. In the chronicles of Polyan are called wise and "intelligent people", which, obviously, could play a leading role among East Slavic tribes.

The temporal decorations are mainly pisteless and s-similar suspensions. Single tribisin rings (Kiev, Pereyaslavl, Chernihiv), Earring with a suspension in the form of a grape cluster (Kiev necropolis). We wore one or two temporal rings. In the burials found up to five-seven rings, risted on the runner tape or leather straps. Necklaces made necklaces. The most common was multi-colored (yellow, green, blue) glass beads, as well as gilded, carnelian, small metal, covered with grain, beads. When excavations of the Polyansky Kurgans, small and biconical and biconical buttons occur. Both in female and in men's clothing they could be sewed on a pose ribbon, which collars were sustained. You can attribute to the chest decorations in the form of a moonnica, pubrentes and crosses that have risen on cervical jewelry. Polyan decorations, as well as their outfits, was distinguished by simplicity and elegance.

Volynian, tribal groupings of the forest zone of the Dnieper Rights Bank, previously had the second name - Bujan. Characteristic temporal decorations of women were ring-shaped rings with a diameter of 1.5 to 3.5 cm, made of thin bronze or silver wire, whose ends were closed or partially crossed. In quantity - from 1 to 8, and sometimes up to 16 - they are much superior to similar decorations of pollas. Pisnoid-shaped temporal rings Volynian were turned on a headdress (B, Antonovich) or stupid into braids, sometimes s-similar temporal suspensions occur, which were mostly distributed among Western Slavs. In Kurgan, Volynians meet and characteristic of all Slavic tribes temporal rings with intake beads. They consist of a wire ring with one glass bead of different color or a brown-colored sheet with white wavy lines.

In one of the Kurgans of the Souroogly Mogilnik found the temporal ring with a small silver grain-bead. Multiple temporal rings occur (from 3 to 5) - silver fine-grained or openwork, as well as earrings with pendants in the form of a bunch.

Beads in Volynian Kurgans are few. The threads consist, as a rule, from a small amount of beads, which rarely suspended metal round pendants or a moonnica. Single metal, carnelian, amber or crystal beads were added to a multi-colored glass, top or beaded necklace. There are gold-plated or silver plated cylindrical beads, a silver necklace of an oval shape with convex sides, decorated with small grain. Bracelets Volyniki, obviously, almost did not wear. They were only found two.

However, simple wire rings ─ smooth, twisted or lamellar were quite common.

In female and male graves, bronze and iron buckles, waist rings for hanging personal belongings, horseshoe fasteners, bronze, iron, bone and wooden buttons are found.

Drevlyan. The Eastern neighbors of Volynians were raft, which also belonged to the Right-Bank Slavs. They occupied a forest zone in the north-west direction from Kiev. It was a fairly powerful tribal association with his prince. Although the chronicler reports that the Drevlyans live like animals in the forests, it did not correspond to reality. Having a developed tribal system of government, where the land managed the elders, the Radiast princes took care of the well-being of their land. Trees were worthy rivals of Polyan.

The composition of the Drevdian tribal jewelry included pisnoid with closed ends or beerworking temporal rings, as well as rings with S-like ends. There are suspensions with Volinyansky type beads. The cervical decorations consist of glass gold-plated cylindrical and barrel-shaped beads that still have suspensions. More often there are white, yellow, red pasta beads, less often - blue and yellow glass, beads from carolics of various geometric shapes. Silver bladed beads decorated with grain and scan, as well as beads in the form of outlets, were found in Kurgans under Zhytomyr. Lunitsa, bubber, marine seashells, possibly amulets were suspended for necklaces. Women wore simple wired or twisted lamellar pins, similar to Volynyansky.

So, common to Polyan, Drevlyan and Volyan - the tribes of the Right Bank of Ukraine - were Persdne and S-end temporal suspensions, polychrome cervical decorations. Their simplicity and laconicity harmoniously complemented the entire silhouette of the outfit.

Northener - tribes that are still in the middle of the first thousand n. e. occupied the northeast territory of the left bank of the Middle Dnieper. The most characteristic ethnic sign of these tribes were spiralite temporal rings. This archaic symbolism existed for several centuries: with VI to IX. The female headdress was part of two to four pendants on each side. According to materials from Kurgans Brovarka (Poltavshchyna), the woman's head decorate the silver plate of the crown with small pendants is necessary forehead.

On both sides of the temples to the crown, several spiral rings were suspended. In addition, the left temple had a long wire pendant with puments (National Museum of History of Ukraine).

In addition, women were decorated with headdress and hair with pisteless closed temporal rings - the general Slavonic style of jewelry. Three beads of temporal rings were found in the hectivic cougars. In addition to the lamellar, the northehe women wore thin twisted crowns, which were also decorated with abundant temporal compositions from spiral and hand-shaped suspension with a significant number of noise jewelry - puments.

The cervical decorations were made of glass beads of yellow, blue and greenish color or from a gild necklace.

Lunnica, bubber, rounded openwork pendants, cross, coins hung towards beads. Typically, nor-naval decorations include hryvnia with shields. In the arrivals and Golubovsky mounds found hryvnias with sockets at the ends, which happen very rarely. To rare finds in the nornish mounds include bracelets, robust and waist buckles, a characteristic feature of the decor of the northern women's clothing were bubber, who were often squeezed on clothes instead of buttons or attached to the necklace and headdresses. They were made of bronze with an admixture of tin, so they had different color - from silver to yellow. The cast bubrels were a commercial and pear-shaped shape with a slot down and ears at the top, with an iron or bronze ball inside. In one of the burials of the Salt Mogilnik, about 70 puments were found. Along with beads and bubrels, a small mirror (5 - 9 cm) was found. They were worn on the straps or chains, which stretched into the hole on the belt or simply on the chest. The mirrors were kept in a leather case.

Many ornamented plates were found in the Salt boron, which were decorated with clothing, as well as buckles from belts and shoes.

Footwear

The most common types of shoes of Slavs were traditional postal, Lychaki (Napti), pistons, shoes (heels), boots (curlers).

Lychaki or Lychinniki, saw from wood bark - Luba, Lyk. They were distributed in the eastern Slavs and their neighbors since the times of the early Iron century. On the territory of Ukraine, Lychaki wore predominantly peasants. The townspeople wore shoes woven from a lycken to the ground with leather straps, and sometimes completely woven from leather straps. Such leather lapties could decorate with metal small plates (Solovsky grain). The plates met, mainly on the legs of the skeletons and, possibly, were brought to the belts of sandals or shoes. The plates were fixed with pins or squeezed, and very thick. Finding shoe fragments make it possible to assume that it has a kind of light sandals stitched from a piece of soft leather, which are intertwined with straps with metal plates gripped on them.

The simple leather shoes of the Slavs were pistons (fairy, fabulos), made from a rectangular or oval piece of leather and assembly on a leather rope.

The pistons were decorated with embroidery (sample piston with embroidery in the nose is kept in the National Museum of the History of Ukraine), as Western Slavic Slavs did.

In addition, Northern Slavs existed "openwork" pistons, decorated in the nasal part of chiros-like slits. The shoes of this type were characteristic of both the Eastern Slavic population (images on the bone dipfeid IV century).

Pistons and lapties shouted onto spheres or shied pants, wrapped with leather straps around the legs in several revolutions or cross.

Shoes (kieviks) wore citizens and rich peasants. The remains of such shoes are found during excavations on Volyn. Hex cravings made from thin skin made up in two layers. We had the type of low, reaching the ankle, a half-way with wide disclosures. In front of the boots ended with sharp or rounded socks (V. Antonovich) and dragged in the ankle with the twine, for which the vertical cuts were made.

The feudal tip wore boots (smoking). This name is found in the chronicle sources from the X century. Ancient Russian curlys were height to the knees, had a soft sole, stitched from several layers of skin, pointed or stupid nose.

Chereviki and curvatures were decorated with embroidery with red or yellow threads (Zhytomyr burial ground, S. Gamchenko).

conclusions

Summarizing the characteristics of the clothing of Slavs VI-VIII century, we have reason to talk about the final approval of the main forms and components of the population of the territory of Ukraine on the eve of the adoption of Christianity. Consolidation of the Valves Children's tribes contributed to the cultural development of the distinctional population, the formation of the overall basis of spiritual and material culture. It was most brightly manifested in the field of culture of outfits, in the creation of the general Slavonic signs of clothing, which remained ethnographically diverse, with characteristic regional peculiarities. Such syncreticity of the clothing of the ancient Russian population is a natural phenomenon. After all, it is before the component of traditional consumer culture and is based on the system of traditions. And they leave at the time of Tripolskaya, Forepinetskoy, Chernyakhovsky and Kiev cultures, the time of the existence of East Slavic tribes, naturally, the outfit embodies the best achievements of the material and spiritual culture of many generations, their aesthetic ideals, artistic tastes, ethical norms and national character.

Therefore, clothes have always been a real work of art, an indicator of artistic taste and high skill.