DIY end cutting board? Easily! Original cutting boards: convenience and creativity DIY birch cutting board

A cutting board is a necessary attribute of a modern kitchen, without which it is difficult to imagine the process of cooking. Usually there are minimum requirements for a cutting board; it must, first of all, be clean and durable. But there are many very original and non-standard models of boards that are designed to make kitchen work simpler and more convenient, and also serve as a striking accessory among traditional kitchen utensils.

Number of cutting boards in the kitchen

According to hygiene standards and standards, one board for all products is not enough. Ideally, each type of product should have its own kitchen board. In catering establishments and professionally equipped kitchens, the number of boards reaches 10-12, or even more. In ordinary apartments there should be at least two cutting boards, but the acceptable and safe number of boards in the kitchen is four.

The basic concept of separation is this: foods that we eat raw (vegetables, fruits, bread products) cannot be cut on the same board on which we cut meat and fish. The reason is that meat may contain pathogenic bacteria. When cooking meat, they die and the prepared dish is harmless to humans. But bacteria can live on a board for quite a long time, even if you wash it well. Accordingly, by cutting bread on such a board, you can become infected with a dangerous infection. It is also advisable to separate the board for meat and fish, because a strong fishy smell is not so easy to remove.

In total, it is advisable that in your kitchen arsenal there are separate boards for raw meat, fish, bread and everything else (vegetables, cheese, herbs). At home, it is convenient to use boards of different colors and shapes or carefully label them so as not to confuse the purpose.

Types of cutting boards

Cutting boards are usually divided according to the material they are made of.

The traditional material for kitchen boards is tree. Wood has a rough texture, food on a wooden surface does not slip, and knives do not become dull so quickly. The quality of wooden boards depends on the type of wood. The cheapest and shortest-lived softwood boards are pine and birch. Boards made of oak, beech, and acacia will last longer. They are more expensive, but practically do not absorb moisture and odors. It is also worth paying attention to whether the board is glued together from fragments or cut from a solid piece of wood. Oddly enough, choose the first option, as it is less susceptible to deformation.

The main disadvantage of wooden cutting boards is considered to be their unhygienic nature and high absorption of odors and moisture, but as mentioned above, it all depends on the type of wood and the quality of workmanship.

After each use, the wooden board should be washed under hot water with a small amount of detergent and left to hang to dry. It is not recommended to wash the board in the dishwasher, as this will quickly deteriorate it.

Unlike a tree, glass It is considered the most hygienic material; it is easy to clean, including in the dishwasher. Special glass is resistant to abrasion, deformation, and is difficult to break. You can even easily pound meat on a glass board. Neither odor nor moisture are naturally absorbed. It is glass models that most often abound in decorative design; various patterns and designs, bright colors make such boards a real decoration of the kitchen space. When choosing a glass cutting board, pay attention to the rubberized legs, which will ensure a tight grip on the table surface. It is desirable that the glass be heat-resistant, then the kitchen board can also be used as a stand for hot frying pans or pots.

Among the disadvantages of glass cutting boards, one can note the unpleasant sound from the contact of a metal knife with glass, as well as the need to catch escaping products from the perfectly smooth surface of the board. When working on such a board, the knives quickly become dull.

Plastic boards have become increasingly popular lately. They have all the advantages of a glass board, that is, they are durable, resistant to abrasion, do not absorb odors and moisture, are easy to clean, but at the same time, products do not slip on a plastic, slightly rough surface, knives do not fail so quickly and there is no unpleasant sound. In addition, plastic is lighter than wood and glass. But all this applies only to high-quality certified models, the cost of which is sometimes comparable to expensive wooden or designer glass boards. Typically, polyethylene or polypropylene is used for production.

The disadvantage of even expensive and high-quality plastic boards is that they cannot withstand high temperatures, so they should not be used as a hot stand for a long time. We do not recommend buying a cheap board, the chemical composition of which is unknown and there is no information about certification. Such a cutting board quickly becomes covered with cuts, and harmful toxic substances can penetrate into food products.

Original cutting boards

The cutting board can be of any shape, but rectangular ones are traditionally used as the most convenient. The standard thickness of the board is from 0.5 to 1 cm, although for cutting meat it is better to take a thicker one 1.5-2 cm, in case you need to chop the meat. It is also better to select the sizes of cutting boards for the products, for example, for bread - a little larger than a standard loaf, and for rolling out the dough you will need a long and wide board.

And now - the fun part!

Modern cutting boards can be very different from generally accepted standards. Despite the apparent simplicity of the board, manufacturers and even famous designers continue to work wonders and modify this kitchen accessory in every possible way, adding new functions and experimenting with shape, color and design. Basically, the most original cutting boards are made of wood, although there are also unusual plastic models. Glass boards are practically not modified in any way, since even without modifications there are a huge variety of decorative design options - from photo printing to stained glass.

Cutting boards for sinks are usually made of plastic. The board has a built-in colander for washing fruits and vegetables. You can also put chopped food there. In most models, the colander is removable, so the cutting board can also be used on the table surface.
Many housewives dream of a special hole in the working surface of the table, where they can immediately dump cleaning and waste. This function is fully realized in cutting boards, where there is a hole for cleaning, and containers for chopped products, and the ability to conveniently place a plate where you can throw salad ingredients with a slight movement of the knife. This is perhaps the most useful improvement to a regular cutting board.

The opportunity to use the cutting board as a place to store knives was also not ignored. The kitchen board turns into a drawer, where tools for peeling vegetables or cutting cheese are stored in the corresponding slots.

You already know that the kitchen should have at least two, and preferably four, cutting boards. Obviously, different original models may be present in a single copy, but there are also convenient sets of boards just for different products. They are usually made of plastic, labeled and do not take up much space.

Many manufacturers are moving away from the standard rectangular shape and carving unusual boards from wood in the form of different shapes, animals, and even the outlines of countries and continents!

Other designers are experimenting with patterns on the surface of the board. On plastic ones the image is applied with paint, on wooden ones the burning or carving technique is used. The drawing can be either purely decorative or have very practical purposes, for example, a table of weights or a ruler.

The jigsaw puzzle is also reflected in cutting boards. Indeed, different board sizes are needed for different purposes. For a French baguette, you can assemble a long board from separate parts, and for dough, a wide rectangular one. Plus, the notches in the puzzle boards double as a glass holder!

For slicing baguettes, the French came up with a special board with slots.

Cutting boards can serve as trays during buffets and banquets.

A board with built-in scales is a very useful and convenient invention not only for professional chefs, but also for those who like to cook exactly according to recipes. With such a cutting board, cutting 35 grams of pepper and 216 grams of meat will be very easy.

Glass kitchen cutting boards can also surprise. Imagine the horror of your guests when you cut cheese on a brand new iPad. The built-in LED lighting will only enhance this similarity.

Glass cutting boards can cover the cooking surface. This is very important in case of limited space in the kitchen.

A transformable plastic cutting board will greatly simplify the life of a housewife in the kitchen. The board has the ability to fold along the folds, which is very convenient for pouring chopped products into a plate. You can also wash vegetables, herbs and fruits in it.

The edge of the table can also be used.

This cutting board is an excellent option that takes advantage of that awkward corner corner of your countertop. A round board eliminates the right angle and adds some work space.

In the kitchen there is a tool necessary for cutting various products - a cutting board. Initially it was stone, then iron, bronze, and only then became wooden). Although plastic analogues have recently appeared, wooden boards are still popular. I recently managed to get into a workshop where cutting boards are made, but what I saw did not go with my ideas about such a simple utilitarian kitchen item on which vegetables, meat and other food are cut.

Today, we will find out how the most expensive cutting boards are made in Russia.

Just as a theater begins with a hanger, so a workshop where wooden products are made begins with a warehouse where the wood is stored. It arrives to our master, whose work will be discussed today, in finished form, dried at a certain temperature for several years. Fresh wood cannot be used to produce boards, as the finished product will deform over time due to shrinkage.

Here, the warehouse maintains a certain temperature and air humidity, which prevent the wood from drying out too much and becoming too wet. This table, which hangs on the wall of the workshop, shows the optimal percentage of humidity at different temperatures.

There is also a hygrometer hanging here showing the degree of humidity in the room. True, the master said that his readings were incorrect).

To produce some boards with particularly complex patterns, a CNC (computer numerical control) machine is used. The machine is small, just connect a laptop with a preset program to it.
The drawing of the board that the mill is currently working on is inspired by Maurits Escher's famous work "Reptiles".

If desired, the cutter will work wonders).

This is what the board looks like after the machine is running. If you look closely, you will see that this future board is glued together from pieces. We will find out why this was done later.

If the base of the board is made of walnut, then the inserts are cut from other types of wood that differ in texture and color - oak and rosewood.

As the master told me, the machine cut out the figures on the board in such a way that when inserting other reptile figures, no gaps were found. The figures turn out to be fitted to each other very tightly.

In this photo you can see examples of gluing. A multi-colored piece is glued together from different types of wood. This material will be used to glue one of the most difficult boards to make. You can see it at the end of the post.

The master takes a simple board, processes it, aligns the edges. Then the board is cut into pieces, which are turned with the end part and glued together. Moreover, gluing is not done in any random order, but in a special way so that the growth rings are directed in opposite directions, this will prevent the boards from deforming when humidity changes.

Why is this being done? Due to the vertical arrangement of wood fibers, knives do not become dull longer, since the knife blade does not cut the fibers, as in ordinary boards, but penetrates between them - slides. The fibers return to their original state after culinary efforts on it. Accordingly, the board does not deteriorate, and cooks do not have to sharpen knives several times per shift, as is the case with conventional boards.

In addition to walnut, hornbeam, ash, maple, oak and beech, valuable wood species such as American cherry, movingwood, and mahogany are also used as materials. As you can see from the markings on the wood, it is from the USA, some are from South America and Africa.

Other types of wood.

After the wood is cut into pieces and turned upside down, it is glued and clamped in clamps - a special press. As you can see, here the shields are of different thicknesses. The thicker one will become a board, and the thinner shields will be used to cut patterns and figures on the surface of future boards, like the figures from “Reptile”. After gluing, the shield will be ready in an hour, but it is recommended to subject it to load after 24 hours.

For gluing, a special glue is used that does not contain formaldehyde, is approved for contact with food and has great water resistance.

This is what the room looks like where all the tools needed for carpentry are located.

Perfect cleanliness and order! As you may have noticed, the workshop has all the machines and tools for making any wooden product. A real carpenter's paradise).

Special clamps for large boards.

We won’t touch that board with the reptiles for now; we’ll be working on it for more than one hour, so we’ll work on another one. After it is glued, it is run through this grinding machine - a thicknesser. Essentially this is a modern planer.

Then the sides of the board are cut with a circular saw.

The sides are sanded on another machine with a vertical movement of the belt. The corners are rounded right away.

The board is then run through the drum sander again.

This time the surfaces are sanded more delicately. However, that's not all.

Pumps are attached to each machine, collecting sawdust from wood processing. After processing by machines, the product is polished with a manual grinding machine. First, a coarser sandpaper of 120 grit is used, then 240 grit to finally polish the board.

Finishing touches to round the edges and the carpentry work on the board is complete.

After all the above operations, the board takes a bath of mineral oil, which has no taste, color, or smell. The oil is made from petroleum, but it is completely safe and is even used in cosmetics.

The same board with reptiles that is shown at the beginning of the post will turn into the same one. After some time, when the board is saturated with oil, it will be allowed to dry, then treated again with a hot mixture of mineral oil and wax in a 4/1 ratio.

Other boards are also sent to the same oil bath.

Now let's go to the "Show Room" of elite cutting boards). In this room, the boards are packed and awaiting a meeting with their future owner.

Hygrometers monitor humidity levels.

This board just broke my mold of simple, utilitarian kitchen utensils! I can’t even imagine how you can dare to cut food on a work of art).

Many hours were spent to produce a board with a 3D effect. By the way, these boards are the most expensive, and it’s understandable why.

And this board can be safely hung instead of a picture!

The master also makes special boards for beating meat. There are even grooves for blood flow.

I’ll also add that the end boards, due to the material and manufacturing features, turn out to be thick and heavy, but they don’t roll around on the cook’s table/work surface. There is no need to place a rag or wet napkin/towel, hold it at risk. The boards are additionally equipped with rubber (sometimes silicone or plastic) legs, which are insurance against the absorption of water that accidentally gets under the board.

After the board has gone through all stages of the production process, it is packaged in film.

A little hot air and you're done.

This map shows where the ordered boards went - mainly Russia, Europe, the USA, there are even Japan and Australia.

Well, for those who want to make an end cutting board with their own hands - a master class. If you have all the tools and machines shown above, then go for it!

And as a bonus, watch the video of how boards with drawings are made, just cool!

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One of the most common kitchen accessories is the cutting board. There are so many options you won’t find on the shelves of modern stores. However, with all the variety of such products, it is difficult to choose a board to suit your specific conditions. Today we will tell you how to make it with your own hands.

Wooden cutting board - a simple option

To make your own cutting board, you will need a piece of planed edged board 20-30 millimeters thick. Try to select a workpiece without visible defects - knots, wormholes, cracks, which can reduce the strength and decorative characteristics of the future product. Sawing curved edges can be conveniently done using a jigsaw with a wood saw installed.

The first stage of work is marking the workpiece

It is convenient to perform it using a pre-made template. Prepare a sheet of thick paper or thin cardboard. Bend it lengthwise and draw with a pencil an image of half of a cutting board of a complex shape. Then, without unbending the paper blank, cut out the template, cutting through both halves of the sheet at the same time. To mark the cutting board, place the resulting template on a piece of wood, press it down and trace along the outline with a pencil.

Cutting board cutting

Use a jigsaw to cut out the blanks. If there are small radius roundings, install a metal file with a smaller blade width.

Grinding

It can be done either manually or mechanically, using a grinder of one or another operating principle. To achieve maximum quality work, use sandpaper of several abrasive grain sizes, from larger to smaller.

The last stage is finishing the boards

Its purpose is to protect cutting boards during their use. Contact with wet products and cleaning untreated products under running water can lead to rot and rapid destruction of the wood. To avoid this, apply several coats of mineral oil to all surfaces, drying in between. It is convenient to carry out the coating process with a piece of lint-free durable cloth.

Remove excess finishing oil with a dry cloth. After curing the last layer for 24 hours, the products are completely ready for use.

Homemade cutting board - a more complex option

To make a more valuable version of the cutting board, you will need bars of various valuable types of wood that have a contrasting color of wood. Among the available ones, we can recommend ash, maple, birch, which have a light color, and beech, mahogany, bog oak, which have a brown or red color.

Nowadays, you can purchase similar blanks for DIY work in a number of online stores. Of course, foreign wood species, for certain reasons, have a fairly high cost, but it’s worth it.

Hard wood is difficult to process with hand carpentry tools, so it is necessary to have access to a number of machines, for example, a planer or planer, as well as a circular saw. In addition, we will need shield clamps or clamps.

Making a shield

To make a typesetting cutting board, you should prepare an even number of bars in light shades and an odd number of dark ones. Pass the workpieces through a surface planer until the pieces are of equal width. Their thickness can be different - this will give the entire product an original look. Pre-place the parts in a cassette to select their optimal relative position. Then turn the bars over onto one of the edges and apply glue. For our product, select a high-quality moisture-resistant wood binder.

Lay the parts with glued edges to each other and clamp them in screw or lever clamps.

To avoid warping of the future shield, place auxiliary bars of sufficient thickness on both planes of the product and press them with clamps.

After the adhesive layer has completely dried, usually within a day, release the workpiece from the clamping fixtures and remove excess glue using a chisel.

After mechanical grinding, it is quite possible to use the product in this form, but we suggest you make it more original.

Making a chess pattern

We transfer the polished shield to a circular saw and saw it across the bars into separate parts 25-30 millimeters thick.

We assemble the set and arrange the resulting parts so that light parts alternate with dark ones.

In the future, we proceed in accordance with the technology described above - we lubricate the edges of the parts with glue, clamp the product in clamps and glue them into a shield.

After the glue has completely dried, carefully sand the finished product with sandpaper of various grain sizes from coarse to fine. To protect the product from moisture and enhance the color of the wood, be sure to treat the cutting board with mineral oils.

By selecting bars of various thicknesses and shapes, experimenting with different shades of wood from different species, you can obtain an unlimited number of different options for the same product - a cutting board.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

The fact that no housewife can do without a cutting board is not subject to debate. Only with a large assortment of relevant products, one is not tripled by its size or geometry, another by its external design, and a third by something else.

But there is a fairly common solution for woodcarving craftsmen to find a rational version of a household cutting board - make it with your own hands, from wood. Knowledge of certain features of the technology will significantly simplify this work.

The first question asked by home craftsmen who do not have sufficient experience in working with wood species is what species is best to use for a cutting board?

Firstly. it is necessary to clarify for what specific purposes it is being done. Many housewives always have not one, but at least two boards on hand for various products. Moreover, they differ both in the width of the tree and in size (and, as follows, in weight and ease of placement on the countertop). Therefore, it is first necessary to understand the specifics of the upcoming use of the board - it is planned as a universal attribute or for a wood carving electric tool for a specific purpose. For example, when working with fish, it hardly makes sense to make it bulky, because cutting it using the chopping method using a hatchet, unlike meat with bones, is not done.

In addition, some boards are generally not used for their intended purpose. They are made with their own hands specifically for home decoration. In other words, they serve only as part of the decoration for a certain interior of the house (country and a number of others).
Due to the absence of carcinogens in the adhesive composition, these particular sheets are recommended for interior work.

Secondly. It also matters how actively the cutting board is used. If it is done “for all occasions,” then such an indicator as strength should not fade into the background. It is also designed to withstand significant loads, taking into account wood carvings and sketches of animal fish, which will also be used for chopping the same bones.

Third. a kitchen, regardless of the type of structure, is not only a room with excess humidity. It experiences periodic and quite significant temperature changes. This alone is enough to understand that any wood is not suitable for a cutting board.

When choosing a type of wood for a cutting board, you need to pay attention to its compliance with the following criteria:

• minimal moisture absorption, otherwise it will swell quite quickly in the kitchen. The result is deformation of the working surface of the cutting board. Even as a stand for something, it is unlikely to be in demand if the geometry changes significantly;
• sufficient strength. Otherwise, with targeted impacts (this mainly relates to the chopping process), the cutting board will gradually become covered with deep dents. Consequently, its further use for its intended purpose is a big question. This also applies to the possibility of material delamination. Plywood, even the highest quality and most expensive (for example, FB), is definitely not suitable for cutting boards.

It is pointless to list exotic breeds — ; They are used for cutting boards only by professionals (Hevea and the like), who produce original copies to order, and the craftsmen do not require advice. Those who decide to make such a board for their home needs, it is advisable to pay attention to birch, acacia, pine, oak, beech, pear, cherry wood carving elements of the ornament. Such wood is malleable in processing, has good strength and is also inexpensive.

This is the second question that interests many home craftsmen - what linear parameters should they focus on? There is no standard for cutting boards, nor are there generally accepted norms. When cutting them out of wood with your own hands, all sizes are determined arbitrarily.

Firstly, every housewife can say what area of ​​the board is optimal for cutting certain products. Therefore, when determining sizes, one must be guided by the principle of sufficiency. If the cutting board is mainly used for skillful wood carving of meat, then its dimensions are chosen to be somewhat large, but for chopping vegetables, for example, a relatively small one is enough. Secondly, how much food is usually cut at a time. After all, a family of 3 people or 5 - 6 is not the same thing. Thirdly, it is important where and how the main workplace of the housewife is arranged. Will it be possible to fit a board that is too large there?

Again, this is determined by the hostess. The man’s task is to do it with his own hands, and what kind of wood carving unit the cutting board should end up being (dimensions, shape, etc.) is the woman’s decision. Some prefer to store such an accessory in a tube (cabinet) of the kitchen unit, others hang it in the kitchen - there are plenty of options. The main thing is that in everyday life the cutting board is not conspicuous, does not interfere and is always at hand.

As follows, the most important aspect here is the artistic design of the cutting board, and not its strength, durability, etc. In this case, it is entirely possible to get by with wood carving on a lathe and a multi-layer board, and not focus on the type of wood. Its most affordable variety that meets all the characteristics is FC.

Because there is nothing complicated in this work, it is enough to just list the main technological operations:

1. Marking a wooden blank according to the drawn up drawing. For ease of use of the cutting board, it is necessary to provide a handle. A nuance - it should be located along the longitudinal axis of the product. Otherwise, the center of mass will shift, and handling this kitchen attribute will become inconvenient in a number of different cases.
2. Cut the tree. Considering the relatively small thickness of the material, it is enough to use a jigsaw or a wood carving Penza region hacksaw (for metal, with fine teeth). This will ensure the most accurate cut. It is especially important if you are making not just a cutting board with your own hands, but a complex one (curly).
3. Edge processing. Any owner always has some kind of abrasive (sandpaper, sharpening wheel) or an appropriate tool (file, grinder) on hand. All corners and edges of the resulting cutting board must be sharpened to remove various roughnesses, microscopic chips remaining after sawing, etc. This solves a dual problem. Firstly, after using the board you won’t have to remove the splinters from your hands. Secondly, the smallest fractions of wood remaining after cutting can unnoticeably get into the products that will be cut.
4. Drilling a hole. It should be in the pen, although this is not necessary. But if you do it in advance, then later, if you want to hang the cutting board somewhere in a convenient place, there will be no problems.

• If a cutting board for wood carving or exclusive furniture is stored in a visible place, it makes sense to leave one side of it for work, and the other side to somehow decorate it artistically. Your own imagination will suggest options - paint and varnish, paste over, laminate with decorative film, etc.
• Modern homes in most cases are finished in a certain style; fortunately, there is a sufficient choice of materials. Therefore, it is advisable to choose the appropriate shape of the cutting board, and not limit yourself to just a traditional rectangle or square.

• Some wood is suitable for a number of parameters for the manufacture of such a kitchen attribute. But there are also some disadvantages that need to be taken into account. For example, birch is good for cutting wood carving boards, but its structure is so porous that this lumber is highly hygroscopic. The conclusion is not difficult to draw - before choosing a specific type of wood, you need to decide on the intended use and storage location of this kitchen attribute. The same is true for oak, although it is durable and moisture-resistant, it is so dense that even a small cutting board made from it has significant weight. And this comes to the issue of ease of use.

That's basically it. And what kind of cutting board to make with your own hands from wood - in size, shape, external design - is up to you, dear reader, to decide.

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A DIY cutting board is a wonderful gift for a wife or mother. This is also a great way to learn how to make really expensive and beautiful things from leftover wood.

During labor lessons at school, the boys had the following topic: “Do-it-yourself cutting board.” The guys made kitchen utensils as best they could and gave them to their mothers on March 8th. The tablets often turned out to be clumsy, but they were lovingly decorated with simple carvings or burnt designs. Now the boys have grown up, and many already want to do something more decent to surprise and please their wife. How to really make one that won’t dry out after a couple of months of use, read our article.

Basic Rules

The service life of your craft will depend on the quality of the wood you choose. We immediately refuse budgetary, but too soft pine - for the board we need a denser and more moisture-resistant solid that will not warp from constant washing, and will not be damaged. The best way to cope with this task is:

• Acacia;
• Pear;
• Cherry.

The shape of the board can be very different, as well as the size, but in any case it should be convenient to work with a certain type of product. The method of storing homemade utensils is also worth thinking about right away. And if, for example, you plan to hang it on a hook, then you will need to provide a fairly large hole somewhere on the edge or on the handle.

When making a board with a handle, make sure that its axis exactly coincides with the center line of the main blade. Otherwise, holding a bulky object will be difficult and inconvenient.

A simple option for beginners

To work, you will need an edged board with a thickness of at least 20 mm. Here it is better not to skimp and choose the best type of wood - Extra or class A, that is, without knots and wormholes. The tools are standard for DIY woodworking: jigsaw, drill, sander, chisel, yew, as well as a pencil and tape measure.

Work order:

1. Cut out a template from paper - it is best to draw it on a piece of paper folded in half to achieve precise symmetry.
2. Using the pattern, make markings on the prepared solid board.
3. Using a jigsaw, cut the workpiece along the contour. If you have a complex sketch that includes arcs of small radius, it is better to cut through these areas using a metal file - it gives a more accurate line.
4. The board blank must be thoroughly sanded using wheels of different grain sizes. Be sure to chamfer and sand all corners.
5. Treat the finished product with Vaseline oil, allowing it to absorb well and dry, repeating this operation several times. By the way, you shouldn’t chase super-expensive mineral oil “especially for boards.” This is the same liquid that is sold in any pharmacy, just named differently.
6. When the oil begins to appear on the surface, it should be removed with a dry rag and the board should be left for a day until completely dry.

Laminated and end boards for experienced

The type-setting boards made from glued lamellas of different colored wood species look gorgeous - they are distinguished by beautiful and even contrasting stripes. To do this, simply alternate light (birch, maple, ash) and dark types of wood (mahogany, beech, bog oak). An even more complex option is when the glued block is cut crosswise and reassembled in a different order. The result is a very impressive “chess”.

But to create such a blank, you need a more serious tool:

• Planing or thicknessing machine;
• Circular saw;
• Panel carpentry clamps or powerful clamps.

All blanks for the end board must be carefully aligned on a circular saw so that they fit tightly together. Otherwise, gaps will appear between the slats, and then neither glue nor clamps will be able to cope with them.

The procedure for making a multi-colored shield:

1. Pass light and dark bars through a surface planer to obtain blanks of the same width.
2. Place the bars in the template cassette, arranging them the way you like. Turn each one on its side and spread glue over the entire surface. Any moisture-resistant composition for wood, for example, Titebond III Ultimate or Kleyberit-303.2, is suitable for making a kitchen board.
3. Return the workpieces to their original position and fit them tightly together. Fix in the clamps for about a day until the glue hardens. It is better to immediately seal the tool with masking tape, so that later you do not have to courageously clean off the tightly stuck compound from it.
4. Remove the board from the clamps and clean the surface with a chisel, removing excess glue.

The typesetting board can turn out to be quite massive, and to make it more convenient for the housewife to handle it, it is better to choose blind handles and grooves on the sides using a router.

In principle, the striped shield is already ready, and you can cut a kitchen board out of it using the technology described above. But those who want to move to the next level and make a gorgeous “chess” will continue to work. Here you will need to cut the workpiece across into new bars 25-30 mm thick. Then we assemble another shield from them according to the principle we have already mastered. After drying and repeated sanding with various abrasives, all that remains is to treat the kitchen board with mineral oil.