Available recommendations on how to cover pipes with plasterboard. How to cover pipes with plasterboard

Surely every person undertaking a renovation thinks that it would be nice to somehow improve the area of ​​the room where the heating or water pipes. Of course, you can just hang beautiful curtains, but, as they say, if it’s a renovation, then a 100% renovation.

Drywall will help disguise unsightly communication pipes. Today, perhaps, there is no simpler and effective way for interior decoration. This material is a fairly large sheet (2.5 × 1.2 m), which consists of thin layers of paper and gypsum, forming a dense structure.

Why drywall?

This building material is popular for several reasons:

1. It is easy to work with, since pieces of almost any shape can be cut from the sheet.
2. The material is absolutely safe for humans because it consists of environmentally friendly components.
3. It is resistant to temperature changes and does not emit toxic substances into the atmosphere when heated.
4. Ideal for covering pipes in the bathroom and toilet. In the event of a breakdown or leakage of batteries, the plasterboard structure can be easily and quickly dismantled, providing access to the problem area. In addition, there is a special moisture-resistant drywall, which is ideal for making boxes in rooms with high humidity.

You don't need to be a master builder to hide unattractive pipes with sheets of drywall. The installation process is simple and can be done independently. If you don’t know what and how to do, then the information below will help you figure out how to cover pipes with plasterboard.

What do you need for work?

To build a fencing structure, you need sheets of plasterboard, a metal or wooden beam to which the building material, putty, will be attached, polyurethane foam and tape. Experts advise choosing galvanized steel as the basis for the frame, as it will not be destroyed by moisture and rust. However, wood is the most environmentally friendly building material; in addition, it will later be easier to attach, for example, a boiler to wood if the need arises.

To work you need:

• level measuring tool,
• roulette,
• pencil for marking cutting lines,
• drill,
• screwdriver,
• hammer,
• jigsaw for cutting pieces of drywall to size,
• metal corner for alignment,
• wide spatula for spreading the primer,
• dowels and screws.

The process of constructing a decorative box for pipes takes place in several stages:

• preparatory,
• assembling a plasterboard box,
• subsequent finishing.

Preparation

Before sheathing pipes with plasterboard, you should take care of them technical condition and appearance. It is very important that the pipes last as long as possible, because they will be covered with a dense plasterboard box, which, frankly, can be easily dismantled, but the repairs in the room will be hopelessly ruined, and the sheathing procedure will have to be repeated again. You can save yourself from unnecessary hassle in advance. To do this, you need to thoroughly wash the pipes, remove old paint and rust (if any) from the surface and repaint them. After the paint has dried, they proceed to assembling the plasterboard frame.

First you need to install rack profiles. Their number and length will depend on the room where the renovation is being carried out. For example, to insulate pipes in a toilet (where the riser is usually located in the corner), three profiles are required; if the pipes are located vertically or horizontally in the middle of the wall, then four rack strips need to be fixed. That is, the pipes are placed either in a square or in a triangle - it depends on the wishes of the owners and the characteristics of the room.

The structure of rack profiles is fastened with transverse inserts for strength. Sometimes a shock-absorbing tape is laid. It is believed to absorb vibration, making the frame last longer.

Then they begin to attach the sheets of drywall to the studs, using self-tapping screws for metal or wood.

It's okay if you cut a piece from the sheet that is not the right size. If the sheet of drywall being fixed is slightly larger than required, the excess can be easily removed using a jigsaw or saw. If it is less, then you can combine the two parts, but in such a way that they are joined on the crossbar.

Note! The drywall must be fastened so that the heads of the screws protrude no more than 1 mm above the surface of the sheet. If you screw the screws in too deeply, this can weaken the fastening of the drywall, while the caps that protrude too much will add to the work during subsequent finishing. In order to disguise them, you will need more primer and time.

Before closing the box with the last piece of drywall, it is recommended to fill the interior space with a layer of foam.

If you are building a plasterboard box to hide heating radiators, then it is very important to make several holes in it after completing all installation work, or leave an opening into which the screen will be inserted. This will allow warm air from the radiator to enter the room.

You can make holes using an electric drill with a special attachment. The diameter can be any, as well as the number of holes. The main thing is not to overdo it and not spoil the interior of the room with too large holes. A good option would be to drill many small holes that follow the shape of the box.

Finishing

The finished box is covered with a layer of putty, carefully masking the screw heads. Before this, it is advisable to glue the joints of the drywall sheets with a special tape - sickle tape.

To obtain clear and even corners, use a metal corner. A putty solution is placed inside it and, pressing the corner tightly to the edge of the box, stretch it over the entire surface. Then the wall is leveled with a thick spatula, cleaned and primed. The resulting surface becomes suitable for subsequent finishing with paint, wallpaper, tiles, and tiles.

Video

This video will clearly demonstrate everything that was said above:

There are pipes in every room, and there are especially many of them in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Moreover, they often only spoil the appearance of the room, rather than decorate it. Therefore, the question “how to close the pipes” is more than relevant today.
You can sew up pipes using a wide variety of materials.

Today there are many options for masking communications indoors. The most common of them:

• using built-in furniture. This is the simplest and best option;
• create a structure from plasterboard. Such a box will make it possible to efficiently and beautifully sheathe communications, including the gas pipe for the dacha;
• chipboard box. Here you can create a lightweight design that will suit any interior;
• decoration. In this situation, cladding can be done with a variety of materials - twine, wallpaper, paint, artificial stones, etc.

Note! The choice of cladding method should be made taking into account your financial capabilities, as well as being guided by your own preferences.
Having so many options, you can disguise the hated pipe, even a gas pipe, in the most suitable way for you. But most often a plasterboard box is chosen as a disguise, since it can be easily made with your own hands.

Making calculations

Creating a plasterboard box to mask pipes requires making calculations and creating a diagram according to which the structure will be installed in the future.
We make the drawing as follows:

Box drawing

• we put communications on paper that we mask;
• the distance between the pipes and the frame is at least 3 cm;
• We draw the elements of the metal frame indicating the locations of the jumpers.

Note! The drawing needs to include the dimensions of the frame and the thickness of the plasterboard sheets.
The drawing will help you accurately calculate the amount of materials needed for the job.

Preparation for installation

Preparation for work on creating a plasterboard box or false wall involves the following steps:

• clearing the site for future work;
• wall primer. If you need to close the gas pipe, prime it with an anti-mold and fungal agent;
• We apply markings on the walls corresponding to the drawing.

Now you are ready to install the structure.

Tools required for work

A plasterboard box can only be made if you have the following tools:

Tools for work

• hammer drill and drill with drills;
• tape measure and pencil;
• building level;
• spatula.

Now you can definitely start the disguise itself.

The main stage of work

For many people, the question “how to cover pipes with drywall” is quite difficult. But if you follow our instructions, this issue will stop worrying you.
Installation of such a structure always begins with the creation of a metal profile:

• We attach profile guides to the markings applied to the floor or walls;

Note! Instead of metal profiles, you can also use wooden slats, but they should be pre-treated with special means.

• we drill holes in them with a hammer drill and fasten them to dowels;
• with a high box, at intervals of 50-60 cm, we install rack profiles. They will act as jumpers. Jumpers are required if the distance between the posts is more than 25 cm.

Box frame

In a situation where the elements that need to be sheathed are in the corner, we begin to install the frame from the corners. All stages of frame installation should be carried out using a building level.

Sheathed pipes

If necessary, then upon completion of the installation of the metal structure, we attach soundproofing materials. It is best if you carry out these actions simultaneously with covering the walls with plasterboard.
Once the installation of the frame is complete, you can begin to cover it with plasterboard. Sheathing happens as follows:

• cut the sheets into pieces of the desired size. It is best if these are long strips, especially if the box is tall. For cutting we use a drywall knife;
• We fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws.

Upon completion of installation, you should have an impeccably even structure.

Shutdown

At the end of the work, you should give your structure an aesthetic and beautiful appearance. To do this you will need to do the following:

• treat all joints between sheets with sickle and putty;
• The places where the screws are screwed in should also be puttied;
• after that we prime the entire box;
• The final step will be applying the finishing putty. Its layer should be very thin.

Then we give the structure its final look by painting, wallpapering, etc. That's it, your communications disguise is ready!

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Communications running along the walls can be hidden using a plasterboard box. This is an inexpensive and simple finishing method that you can do yourself. Let's look at how to cover pipes with plasterboard so that the box is attractive and neat. Drywall can be used to cover water pipes, sewer risers and other communications.

Frame

To solve the problem of how to sew up pipes with plasterboard when they horizontal position First of all, it is necessary to create a frame from UD metal profiles. The UD (guide) profile is sewn using self-tapping screws and dowels onto the floor and wall along the laid communications (if they run horizontally). In this case, it is necessary to check the horizontal profile using a level. Guide profiles must be placed as close to the pipe as possible so as not to “eat up” the free space.

After this, it is necessary to form the corners of the frame from CD and UD profiles. To do this, the height of the box is accurately measured and profile pieces equal to this height are cut out of the CD. After this, it is necessary to cut off the side parts of the profile 30 cm from either end. The solid end of such a piece of profile is inserted into the floor guide, and the UD profile will be attached to the cut edge, which will form the corner of the box (let's call it a “corner profile”). The cut profiles are inserted into the guide every 30 cm, after which the UD can be attached to them using LM screws. Pieces of CD are inserted perpendicularly every 30 cm into the “corner profile” and the guide attached to the wall.

Frame covering

The next stage of solving the problem is covering the frame, for which you will need a screwdriver, 25 mm metal screws and the drywall itself. The pieces are cut using a stationery knife in accordance with actual dimensions boxes First, the vertical side of the box is sewn up, and then the horizontal side.

Video on covering pipes with plasterboard

• Stage 1. Preparatory work
• Stage 2. Construction of the frame
• Stage 3. Sheathing the frame with plasterboard
• Stage 4 Heat transfer holes
• Stage 5 It's time to process the box

Batteries and pipes in most buildings are mounted externally.

And a large number of people have a question: how to sew up pipes with plasterboard or other material? For these purposes, you can use a lot of building materials, but the most common is still plasterboard.

Main characteristics of plasterboard sheet

Using plasterboard sheets to hide ugly radiators and pipes has many advantages:

1. It is quite easy to carry out such a design on your own, without resorting to the services of professional finishers.
2. The price of plasterboard material is quite reasonable.
3. Drywall is an environmentally friendly building material, and when heated it does not emit any harmful fumes.

These are the main advantages of using plasterboard sheets, but besides them, there are many others. It is advisable not to allow moisture to come into contact with ordinary (gray) drywall, as the cardboard may come away from the plaster.

Rooms where there may be a lot of moisture (kitchen, bathroom) should be sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets. It has a greenish tint. Of course, it costs a little more, but you don’t have to worry about moisture getting on it, because it can’t spoil such material.

What is required to make a box from plasterboard material?

• metal profile of 2 varieties (guide and rack);
• plasterboard sheets (preferably green, so as not to worry about the possibility of moisture getting on it);
• screws;
• stationery knife;
• corner profile;
• level;
• pencil;
• plumb line;
• shock-absorbing tape (optional);
• ruler;
• sandpaper;
• electric drill with attachments;
• putty;
• soil solution;
• putty knife;
• roller;
• finishing material.

Without these materials, covering pipes with plasterboard is simply impossible.

Stage 1. Preparatory work

Before you start making a plasterboard box, you should prepare the batteries and pipes themselves. To do this, you need to remove the old dye from them and repaint them.

This is done to prevent batteries and pipes from rusting and deteriorating. ahead of schedule. Since, after their covering is completed, there will be no access to them.

After the dye has completely dried, you can begin making a frame for the future.

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Stage 2. Construction of the frame

In order to make a frame, you will need guide and rack profiles. These profiles are made of specialized galvanized sheet, which makes them quite durable and also resistant to rust.

First, you need to mark the outline of the future frame on the floor, wall surfaces and ceiling, if the pipe goes upward. To do this we need a level, a pencil and a plumb line. A guide profile should be installed along the outlined line. It is attached to the wall using dowels.

Ideally, each place where the profile connects to the working surface should be lined with a shock-absorbing tape specially made for such purposes. This is done so that during seismic activity of the wall surface the plasterboard structure does not suffer the slightest damage.

The shock-absorbing tape is designed to absorb absolutely all vibrations without transferring the latter to the structure frame. But this method is often used when constructing partitions from plasterboard sheets, and for boxes for various pipes it is not necessary.

After the guide profiles have been secured, it is necessary to insert rack elements into them. Next, they should be fastened to each other using special small screws designed for metal.

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Stage 3. Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

Drywall is attached to the box using self-tapping screws, depending on the type of profile.

After the metal frame has been safely installed, it’s time to start sheathing it with plasterboard blanks. Plasterboard sheets should be cut and the edges processed. Drywall is cut using the following method.

You should measure the required size, draw a straight line on the plasterboard and, without removing the ruler, draw along this line several times with a stationery knife. Next, the sheet is simply taken and broken by hand along the line. All burrs formed along the edges of the cuts must be processed with sandpaper.

The sheets should be secured with screws so that the cap is recessed into the material no more than 1 mm. Otherwise, the cardboard layer of the plasterboard may be damaged, which will subsequently lead to poor-quality fastening of the workpiece.

In many old-style apartments, and in particular in bathrooms or toilets, water communications run from floor to ceiling. Water supply and sewerage risers, which have long since fallen into disrepair, significantly spoil the entire appearance of the room.

Rarely does anyone think of sewing pipes into a box made of plasterboard or plastic, and basically, as they say, the need for invention is cunning - the worst solution that came across my eye was a concrete riser, which was later lined with tiles. Can you imagine what a time bomb this is? All cement mortars they simply eat up the metal and after a few years the risers begin to leak, and they leak in places where, in general, they shouldn’t.

The water pipes are more or less clear; if desired, they can be hidden in the wall, but the sewer riser, no matter how big it is, cannot be placed inside the wall. Here we need another solution to the problem. And the most suitable thing is to sew the pipes into a box made of plasterboard or. There is no significant difference with what you decide to line this box with, and in both cases the work will have to be done practically the same. The only differences are in the material and the final result.

If you choose between plastic and plasterboard, then you should pay special attention to the features of these materials. If sewer or water pipes are covered with plasterboard and tiled, then in the event of an accident, without damaging the pipe, you will not have access to the riser. What's the conclusion? There is no need to sew old metal risers into a plasterboard box - first of all, they need to be replaced with modern and more durable material (at least for). If you decide to sew old risers into a box, then it is best to use plastic panels- at least they can be calmly disassembled and subsequently everything can be restored as it was.

How to make a box from plasterboard?

In general, this is clear, but now let’s figure out how this notorious box is made from plasterboard or plastic PVC panels. And first, let's make a frame - it is the most important element in the entire structure.

How to make a frame for a box?

For the frame we will need: ud profile – 4 pieces, cd profile – 1 or 2 pieces depending on the size of the structure, tex – 50 pieces, dowels ø6x40mm – 10 pieces. and self-tapping screws for attaching drywall (if we are talking about plastic, then it is attached with tex, in this case, purchase 100 of them). Well, and, accordingly, the tool that you cannot do without: a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a level, metal scissors and a knife for cutting drywall or plastic.

Let's start by marking the contours of the box. To do this, parallel to the pipe on one and the other side, using a hammer drill and dowels, we attach guide profiles ud to the walls. Here it is worth paying attention to the location of these profiles - you should not move them far away from the riser; move them further and you will get a large box that will steal the lion's share of the space from you.

When attaching profiles, you must use a level - otherwise you will end up with a crooked box. In general, throughout the entire work the level should be yours. best friend– Without it, such work is simply impossible.

Now the outer corner - it is formed from two ud profiles twisted together. You need to twist them so that their internal cavities look in different directions from the corner and are located at an angle of 90˚ relative to each other.

We take the screwed profiles and install them in the corner. I almost forgot, you will need to determine the location of this corner on the floor. To do this, it will be enough to draw two lines running parallel to the walls and originating from the ud profiles nailed to the walls. The intersection of these lines will indicate your angle. For convenience, you can even nail small pieces of ud profiles to the floor along these lines. But you can, in principle, do without them.

And again the level - now you will need it to determine the length of the jumpers from the profile. Holding the profile together with the level in a clearly vertical position with one hand, measure the length of the jumper at the bottom of the box and at the top. First you need two attachment points on one side of the corner.

We cut out the measured profiles and install them using tex in the places where you measured them. We perform exactly the same procedure on the other side of the box.

Something is already emerging, but the frame doesn’t have enough rigidity. You need to add at least a couple more jumpers on each side. It’s already simple here – we measure, cut, install and fasten!

That’s basically it – the frame is ready and you can sheathe it.

How to cover a frame with plasterboard?

Oh, it seems to me that you can figure this out without me. But just in case, I’ll outline some of the nuances.

Firstly, in order not to waste time looking for profiles hidden under the plasterboard and to avoid pointlessly making holes in the plaster, make marks for yourself on the walls at their locations.

Secondly, do not forget about the inspection hole - it would also be a good idea to mark its location on the adjacent wall.

There is no need to lay additional profiles specifically under the hatch; if it is plasterboard, lined with tiles, then the plastic door is attached perfectly using silicone. If we are talking about covering the frame with plastic PVC panels, then it is simply necessary to lay additional profiles for its fastening.

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