Do-it-yourself wooden stool: step-by-step instructions, drawings and reviews. How to make a stool out of wood with your own hands - step-by-step instructions, photos and drawings How to make a stool out of wood

A stool is a familiar, comfortable and compact piece of furniture that is most often used in the kitchen or country house. Chairs purchased in a store and made from wood composites do not always meet all consumer requirements in terms of aesthetics and practicality for such conditions, and they are also quite expensive. This is why the question arises of how to make a stool with your own hands from wood so that it is reliable and lasts for many years.

Anyone who started making furniture with such a simple product as a stool, having become skilled at it, may later want to make more complex and large-scale structures, for example, a table, a cabinet, or something, which will save a decent amount of money for the family budget.

Popular types of stools

Even such a simple piece of furniture can be made in different variations and used for different needs. To decide which model you would like to obtain as a result of the work, you should consider several similar products.

Children's stool

This stool option will not be out of place in any home, as it is convenient not only for children, but also for adults. It is light in weight and compact in size, so it can easily be moved to any convenient place in the yard or house where it is needed at the moment, and even a small child can move it.

It is best to make such a model from a solid board, which should be well processed first. If you want the stool to be very light, then dry linden is used to make it, which has a beautiful textured pattern and very little density.

If the thickness of the board taken for a small stool is at least 25÷30 mm, then only three main parts will need to be made - these are two legs and a seat, which can be fastened with dowels, even without the use of additional reinforcing elements.

All parts of the product must not have sharp corners or burrs. The workpieces must be rounded and well sanded so that there is no risk of injury or splintering.

This piece of furniture can be used not only for sitting, but also as an ottoman, placing it under your feet - this is especially often used by older people. Therefore, by making such a stool, you can please both kids and grandmothers, showing them your care.

Stool - box

It's common to run out of space for small items in the kitchen or workshop, and this stool model is perfect for clearing out some of the currently unused items on your counter. The boards that form the walls of the box strengthen the entire structure well and at the same time create a box where things that should always be easily accessible can be placed.

For example, women can use such a box to store needlework, as it is spacious enough and there is room in it for balls of yarn and knitting needles, as well as everything necessary for hand embroidery or sewing.

The male half will calmly hide in a box under the seat some items of his home “arsenal” that are most often needed in the household - a hammer and nails, pliers and other not too large tools.

To make such a product you will need a well-processed timber 50×50 mm, a board 200÷250 mm wide and 20÷25 mm thick, plywood for the bottom of the box and fasteners.

Folding stool

A folding stool is suitable for small apartments with small kitchens or for small country houses. It can be kept constantly unfolded, and, if necessary, put away in any closet or niche between the furniture and the wall, since when folded its thickness will be approximately 60÷80 mm, depending on the material chosen for manufacturing and design features.

The seat for this stool model can be made round or square, but each option has its own design for attaching the legs. The legs for such a stool are made of boards or thick, 20÷25 mm high-quality plywood. The base of the product consists of two frames, one of which must fit freely into the other. The frames are fastened together on one side and the other with special screws with bushings or a pin axis, which allows the structure to fold.

Step stool

Another option for a stool that can serve not only for sitting, but also act as a stepladder. This model is always useful both in a private house and in an apartment. For example, it is difficult to do without a stepladder during general cleaning, and without it it is not easy to get the right thing from the top shelf of a high cabinet.

When folded, this design will be no different from a regular stool, since the steps will be under the seat. Turning a stool into a convenient staircase is not difficult - you just need to pull the top of the temporarily inverted steps and carefully place them on the floor. The result is a reliable and stable stepladder, which can also be used as a comfortable footrest when sitting on a stool.

To make this model, you will need massive boards for the seat and steps, as well as thick plywood for the legs and a stringer for the steps.

Stool for the garden

If you plan to use a stool in a summer cottage according to the type, only in a portable version, then you need to prepare a wooden beam for it, since plywood will not work in this case. It will begin to delaminate under the influence of moisture, and the product will soon be hopelessly damaged.

Larch or oak is best suited for manufacturing. If you choose other wood, then it will need to be thoroughly impregnated with moisture-repellent compounds and then painted. Moreover, the process of pre-processing of lumber is carried out even before the structure is assembled.

Furniture used outdoors differs from that found indoors in that between the parts from which the seat and back are assembled (if a bench is made), gaps must be left so that rainwater does not linger on their surface, and parts were ventilated faster.

Stool drawing

Having decided on the model of the future product, a sketch drawing is drawn up, according to which all structural elements will be manufactured. When drawing up a drawing, all the necessary dimensions are immediately calculated and marked on the drawing. It is not at all necessary to make a diagram, observing all the canons and rules of drawing science - even just drawing it by hand will be enough. The main thing is that you can visually evaluate what will happen in the end, see all the parameters of the necessary materials and the principle of their connection.

In the presented diagram you can see the names of some of the parts that are included in the design of the stool - these are drawers, legs and “crackers”. Let’s talk about them in a little more detail, so that in further descriptions it will be clear what we are talking about. All these parts are necessary to hold the structure together and give it the required strength.

• Tsargi are bars or boards located under the seat of the stool and fasten the legs together with tenon joints, creating a strong support for the seat.
• The leg is an element designed to increase the stability and rigidity of the structure. It is located in the central or lower part of the legs (according to their height) and also fastens them together with tongue-and-groove joints.
• “Rusks” are bars, boards or metal corners installed diagonally on the inner corners of the structure under the seat and secured to the drawers and legs.

When drawing up a drawing, it is important to calculate not only the parameters of all visible parts of the structure, but also the size of the internal connecting elements, such as tenons cut at the edges of the drawers, and the grooves in which they will be installed, selected in the legs of the stool.

Tools for work

Without carpentry tools, it is simply impossible to make any piece of furniture from wood. Professional furniture makers have workshops fully equipped with special expensive machines. But just to try yourself as a carpenter, of course, you shouldn’t immediately purchase professional equipment, however, you will still have to prepare some tools.

The list of the most popular tools for working with wood is as follows:

• It’s great if the farm has a set of cutters that will help you process the edges of boards, timber and plywood, drill holes of different sizes, or carefully select grooves and grooves on any of the parts.

• To get rid of tedious operations, you will need a sanding machine with interchangeable wheels of varying degrees of grain to give the wood surface a smooth finish. This work can be done manually, but it will take much longer.

• Electric jigsaw. This tool, of course, can be replaced with a hand hacksaw, but after sawing the boards with it, the edges of the parts will not turn out neat, and you will have to work hard on them using a router. Again, cutting the material by hand will take much longer.

• will be necessary not only for screwing in fasteners, but also for drilling holes in parts. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a set of screwdriver bits and drills of different diameters. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use any drill and a set of hand screwdrivers.

• Clamps of various sizes. If you want to make a really high-quality and durable thing, then you must have clamps on hand, since when gluing boards into a solid panel or individual parts together, they must be strongly compressed and left in this position for a fairly long time, and besides these no other instrument can do this.
• You always need a hammer and chisels of different sizes. Sometimes you have to resort to using a plane - it can also be manual or electric.
• Measuring and marking equipment is being prepared - tape measure, construction square, wooden ruler 500÷1000 mm, simple pencil, surface planer, etc.

In addition to these tools, to carry out the work conveniently, you will need a fairly large and durable table - a workbench.

Making stools

folding stool

Traditional simple stool

The designs of even the simplest products may differ from each other in some elements, which, as a rule, are intended to give the stool additional strength.

Materials for production

A simple model of a stool looks like this and consists of parts indicated in the drawing by numbers:

1 - Legs.

2 - Stool legs.

3 - Tsargi.

4 - Seat.

5 - Connection elements - supports for installing the seat.

6 - Connecting grooves.

7 - Connecting grooves.

To make traditional stools with a height of 500 mm, a seat of 450x450 mm and straight legs, the following parts will be required:

• Four well-processed, smooth beams for the legs, cross-section 50x50 mm, height 485 mm. They can be straight or have narrowed cuts on the inside.
• For the seat you need to prepare two or four boards 12÷20 mm thick, 450×225 mm or 450×112.5 mm in size, or a plywood panel 450×450 mm, 12÷20 mm thick.
• To give the stool strength, in different types of structures 4 legs and 4 drawers can be used, made of timber with a section of 30×30 and a length of 441 mm, or only drawers - 4 boards, with a cross-section of 30×60 and a length of 441 mm.
• Additionally, connecting elements can be used in the form of small pieces of bars fixed on the inside, in the middle of the drawers, but you can do without them if bars of sufficient thickness are taken for the base under the seat.
• 30×30 mm timber for making “crackers” if they are intended to be installed.
• Wooden dowels (chops) for securing the seat to the finished base - 4 pieces, 30 mm long and 8÷10 mm in diameter.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Wood glue.

Assembling the stool

Illustration
	The first step, in order not to waste time, is to glue the boards for the seat if it will consist of several elements. To do this, well-fitted and polished end sides of the boards are coated with glue, connected to each other and tightened with clamps. This design should dry thoroughly, and while it is setting, you can start assembling the frame base of the stool.
	Next, the bars for the legs are prepared. They must have perfectly even cuts and be the same in height, which can vary, depending on the wishes of the master, and range from 450 to 500 mm.
	The next step is to mark the legs and determine the location of the connecting grooves for installing the tenons of the legs and drawers in them (or just the drawer, if the legs are not included in the design). The holes are selected using a router or chisel.
	Next, the edges of the drawers and legs are processed. Tenons are cut out on them with a width, height and depth that is 1÷1.5 mm smaller than the holes in the grooves in the legs intended for them. The tenons should fit fairly freely, but still fit tightly into the grooves.
	After this, the legs are assembled in pairs, fastened together by means of legs and drawers - their tenon parts are glued into the grooves of the legs. Each of the resulting frames is tightened with clamps. Then, after they have dried, the legs, tied in pairs, are also connected by drawers and legs into a single structure for the base of the stool and again compressed in clamps until they are completely glued. After the glue has dried, all connections are additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
	If it is intended to strengthen the stool with “crumbs”, then they are screwed to the sides and the leg of the stool. This element, installed flush with the top edge of the drawers, will create additional support for the seat.
	The next step is to mark and secure the stool seat. To do this, glue is applied to the back of the panel according to the markings, and then it is laid on the finished base of the stool, leveled and pressed. Next, in the corners, through the seat panel, one hole is drilled, the diameter of which should be 1-2 mm larger than that of the prepared dowels, and the depth should be 5 mm less than their height. Glue is poured into the hole, and then the dowels are driven in. Exposed glue is immediately wiped off. The top of the dowel is cut off using a router, and this area is sanded smooth. Additionally, the seat must be tightened with the frame using clamps until the glue dries completely.

The adhesive can be designed for different drying times, and this is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is possible to operate the products only after the specified period has completely expired.

Folding stool

The folding version of the stool is convenient because, thanks to its compactness, it can not only be stored in a small living space, but can also easily fit into the trunk of a car for transportation to the country.

children's stool

Materials for production

To make such a stool model, you will need slightly different materials than those used for the traditional product. Thus, some craftsmen prefer to purchase ready-made furniture panels made from natural wood. They are excellent for cutting design parts, since, having cut them out of this material, all that remains is to process their edges.

For the presented version of the stool, the master required a panel measuring 1120×400×24 mm, and in addition to it, additionally, the following materials:

• A stud with threads cut on both sides and end nuts, 250x8 mm in size, for through installation, or a stud with blunt ends for installation in blind grooves.
• Furniture butterfly hinges size (when opened) 350x400 mm - 4 pieces.
• Dowels or choppers 50×8 mm.
• Wood glue.
• Stain and clear varnish or tinted varnish.
• Self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long.

The dimensions of all structural parts are clearly visible in the presented drawing.

The folding stool consists of the following parts:

• The seat is round, with a diameter of 350 mm.
• The frame is 166 mm wide, consisting of two bars measuring 500 × 48 × 24 mm, and a cross member 122 mm long.
• Frame 122 mm wide from two bars 500x48x24 mm with cuts at the upper ends at an angle of 30 degrees, and crossbars 70 mm long.

Making a stool

Processing of parts and their assembly is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	It must be said that the seat can have a round or square shape with rounded corners, at the choice of the master. In this case, a round seat with a diameter of 350 mm was chosen. For the convenience of folding the stool, a curved hole should be made in the upper part of the seat, approximately 120 mm long and 20÷25 mm wide, so that it is convenient to grasp it with your hand. It can be cut using a router or drilling two holes with a diameter of 20÷25 mm at a distance of 120 mm from each other, and then connecting them by sawing out the wood between them using a jigsaw, making two cuts. In order for the hole to be neat and smooth, its edges must be processed immediately.
	Processing the edge of the seat and the inner edges of the “handle” hole is most often done using a semicircular cutter. But if this tool is not available, then they are put in order by first using a file with a large notch (rasp), and then sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually bringing the wood to smoothness.
	The next step is to process the prepared bars of the legs. In two of them, which will form the outer frame, you need to cut a groove 180 mm long and 8 mm wide, and 42 mm deep, along which the pin will go. Sometimes the grooves are made through - it is for this case that a stud with threads at the ends is selected, onto which a special cap nut is screwed. In the other two bars, according to the diagram, through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through which the pin will pass - these elements are intended for the manufacture of a narrow frame.
	The grooves are cut using a router, or holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended line, which are then combined into a common groove using a jigsaw. The work is carried out on a special machine, or the beam is rigidly fixed in a vice, and then holes are drilled in it using a drill or screwdriver.
	The bars that will form the inner, narrower frame of the stool must be carefully sawed off at the top at an angle of 30 degrees - this process can be done on a machine or using a miter box. The corner must be cut perfectly accurately, so this work cannot be done “by eye”. On the lower part of the legs, it is recommended to slightly round the corners and edges.
	The crossbars installed between the legs are mounted on dowels, which are glued into the drilled holes. This process can be done in different ways. Most often, the jumper is first installed with glue in the place intended for it, the legs are compressed in clamps, and left to dry completely. Then, through the outer side of the legs, through holes are drilled, which go deep into the end sides of the jumpers by at least 20÷25 mm. After this, dowels are carefully driven into the holes using glue. Each side of the jumpers will require two fasteners.
	On the back of the seat, according to the drawing, the places where the butterfly loops will be attached are marked. Then, the loops are laid on the marked place and outlined. Further. From this place, a landing “nest” is selected with a depth equal to the thickness of the loop, that is, when secured, the loop should be flush with the main wooden surface.
	Next, the loops are secured on the upper end sides of the legs. They are screwed on with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be in the same plane as the surface of the hinges. The next step is to attach the second side of the hinges to the sockets prepared for them on the back surface of the seat.
	To make the structure look neat, it is recommended to cover the pin with a tube carved from wood. You can replace the wooden version of the element masking the pin with a plastic tube, since turning this part out of wood is not so easy. The length of the tube should be 68 mm, the internal diameter 9 mm, the thickness of the tube walls can be from 2 to 10 mm.
	Next, the pin is inserted into the narrower frame through a prepared decorative tube, and its ends are inserted into the grooves of the outer, wider frame, along which they will move when folding and unfolding the stool.
	It must be said that a folding stool may have a slightly different design. It uses not one, but two studs, and instead of an internal frame, a solid board is fixed, and it serves as an equally reliable stool leg. The second, outer frame has a jumper at its very bottom, at such a level that when the structure is folded, the leg board fits neatly into it, creating one panel. The fastening of such legs to the seat is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first version of the folding stool.
	For comparison, you can see what one and the other model of the finished product looks like, and choose the one you like best for production. It is probably not difficult to understand that the second design option is simpler to implement.

Stool with wicker seat

A stool with a wicker surface can be made in a low or full, high version - it will be comfortable in any case. Its seat can be made of various materials - durable fabric, belts (including old car seat belts), cord and even plastic-braided cable. It is quite possible to come up with your own version.

Materials for production

The frame for such products is mounted, in principle, according to the same scheme, however, if a high stool is made for an adult, then the design should be more reliable, that is, it is advisable to strengthen it with durable drawers and legs. We must not forget that in a traditional stool the seat is also a reinforcing part of the structure, and its wicker version itself requires a particularly strong frame.

So, for the frame of a rectangular stool measuring 500×400 mm, you will need:

• Wooden blocks 50x50 mm for legs - their height can be selected individually.
• Bars for drawers and legs, section 50×25 mm.
• Metal or wooden corner elements - “crackers”.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Leather or synthetic belts, or durable rope in one or two colors.

Let us immediately note that the model shown in the example has a fairly large seat, which reduces the overall strength of the stool. Therefore, it may be more reasonable to make this structural element a little smaller, for example, 350x300 mm.

Find out by reading the options from “classic” to “transformer” in a special article on our portal.

Making a stool

The manufacture of such a stool is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The structural elements of the stool are cut from the bars prepared for work. The legs can range from 300mm to 500mm in height and the model shown is 400mm high. In order for the legs to be stable, their end parts must be perfectly flat. Therefore, they should be marked using a construction square, and preferably sawed using a circular saw, which will give a perfect cut.
	The next step is to prepare the bars for the legs and drawers. In this case, 4 beams with a length of 450 mm and 4 beams with a length of 300 mm are cut. These elements should also have smooth edges for a snug fit to the legs.
	To make holes for fastening structural elements at a certain angle, a special tool (jig) is used that can guide the drill bit in the desired direction. This device is fixed on a block, and two holes are drilled through its guide holes on each side of the wooden part. After all the elements of the stool are ready, they should be thoroughly cleaned - this process is best carried out before assembling the structure, as it will be easier to see all the problem areas on the wood.
	This photo shows what such holes look like inside the beam.
	Additional fastening of the drawers and legs with the legs can be done using tongue-and-groove fasteners, and then, for maximum reliability, also with metal corners - “crackers”. These parts need to be selected according to the width of the wooden blocks.
	If the first fastening option is chosen, using self-tapping screws, then the assembly and fixation of all parts of the stool look as shown in the presented photo.
	At the end of the assembly, the stool frame should be strong and stable. When leaning on it, it should not swing.
	If it is planned to be painted or tinted, then this process is carried out before the seat is made.
	To equip the seat for the model shown in this example, 17 leather belts, 35 mm wide, were required. As already mentioned, seat belts used in cars can be used instead. The straps are screwed with two self-tapping screws measuring 10 mm at a distance of 9 mm from each other, onto the wide side of the beam extending inside the stool frame. The length of the belts must be measured in advance using a tape measure, “traversing” the entire path of the belt with its flexible tape. First you need to secure the belts, which will be located along the length of the rectangle. Having secured the belts on the inside, they go around the beam, pull it through the seat frame to the opposite king beam, go around it and also fasten it on the inside using the same screws.
	After the longitudinal belts are secured, the belts that will intertwine the already tensioned elements should be secured in the same way. They are screwed onto one of the long sides of the frame. Then, each of the belts is passed transversely through the longitudinal belts, in the form of weaving. After this, they are also wrapped on the inside of the opposite drawer, stretched and screwed. Having completed this operation, you can proceed to “testing” the product.
	Another option for designing a flexible stool seat is to stretch a strong rope or cord over the frame. In this case, paper rope was used. In addition to this, you need to prepare furniture nails with wide heads and a hammer, as well as clamping pliers and an awl.
	You can purchase rope of different shades for weaving and display one of the selected patterns on the surface of the seat, getting a stylish piece of furniture that will complement the interior design.
	The end of a rope of the same color is nailed to the back side of the drawer using two furniture nails.
	Next, the rope is carefully wrapped around two long opposite sides of the frame. If the frame is square, then the process of laying the rope can begin from any side of the structure.
	By braiding the opposite sides with a rope, its loops are pressed against each other as tightly as possible and pulled. Having covered approximately 100÷120 mm of the length of the seat with braiding, the rope is temporarily fixed with pliers so that it does not loosen. Work continues in this way until the entire surface of the seat is covered with a wound rope.
	Having finished covering the seat along two sides with one color, you can move on to weaving it across with twine of a different color. To do this, in this case, take a white rope and fasten it also on the back side of the drawer, running parallel to the already wound rope.
	Using a white cord, any pattern can be “highlighted” from a red background. This process is relatively simple and will be accessible even to a beginner.
	In this case, the white cords are pulled between the red rope so that the result is a herringbone pattern, that is, stripes are turned diagonally from the center of the seat.
	Having intertwined 6-8 rows and pulled them tight, the white rope is grabbed on the back side of the drawer with a furniture nail. If this is not done, the seat will quickly stretch and sag when using the stool. This procedure must be carried out every 6–8 rows, driving nails either on one side or on the opposite side.
	The result should be a durable seat, four threads thick, with an interesting design. If you want to choose a different pattern, woven from three or even four colors of rope, then on the Internet you can always find exactly what will suit a specific interior.

It should be noted that in the second option, where the seat is covered with rope, the frame is not very strong and is unlikely to support people with heavy weight, but such a stool is perfect for a children's room or as a footrest. If you want to make a full-fledged product for the seat, you need to choose a more massive beam for the frame and strengthen it especially reliably.

Find out by studying several available options in a special article on our portal.

In conclusion, it is worth saying that making a stool yourself, without having experience working with wood and special tools, is not as simple as it seems at first glance. However, if you have the desire and enough patience, then it’s quite possible to try yourself as a carpenter. The main thing is that you need to get ready for serious work and not do it “carelessly.”

Video: master class on making a simple wooden stool

As you know, the kitchen is the “heart” of the house, its soul. And a place that gathers all the inhabitants into a friendly company. That is why it is so important to equip the dining area with special comfort. And comfortable stools placed around the table can help with this.

Despite the fact that a stool is taken for granted, any housewife will say that good furniture gives the kitchen a special coziness, warmth and good mood to the inhabitants of the house. Therefore, the choice of chairs and stools should be approached very responsibly, taking into account the general style of the kitchen interior, color tones, and even furniture for the kitchen corner.

Modern technologies can significantly reduce the negative impact of using objects made from such “fashionable” polymer materials today (they are lighter, more fun to look at, and cheaper in cost), but no one has canceled good old wood, and comparisons with other materials unthinkable. And all because wooden furniture is environmentally friendly building material.

Another advantage of wooden furniture is that it is high quality and has a long service life. And no matter what the manufacturers of fashionable “eco-plastic” say that it is “no worse”, wood will always be in price (of course, if it is not chipboard or MDF sheets, but natural wood with antiseptic impregnations).

Third quality - impact resistance, resistance to mechanical damage(scratches, small impacts, chips). Of course, this does not mean that furniture made of natural solid wood, for example, can be hit with a hammer and nothing will happen to it. But the likelihood of noticeable deformations on the surface is quite small when compared with the same plastic furniture.

Carved wooden stools (photo)

Purchased wooden stools

pros

• The product is completely ready for use. This means that if you don’t want to bother with making seats yourself, wasting materials and your precious time, then you can buy wooden stools for the kitchen at any furniture store. They also often hold various promotions, sales, discounts, etc.
• You can also get acquainted with the assortment through catalogs of online stores - today this is very convenient, since it will immediately give you guidance both financially and in terms of delivery, and besides, almost all issues can be resolved literally without leaving home. And you can also order furniture online by filling out the required order form.
• Alternatively, you can purchase a ready-made classic stool of the simplest design and decorate it to match the overall interior of the kitchen.

Minuses

• Sometimes the product posted on the website does not match the one delivered by the delivery service. There may be discrepancies in color shades, sizes and even material (for example, instead of aspen they bring pine, instead of oak - birch, etc.). In this case, delivery, as a rule, is paid and the costs for it are not reimbursed by the manufacturer in case of refusal of purchase. Therefore, it is advisable to check the product yourself.
• As for sales, not everything is so smooth here either - often such promotions relate to furniture that has already gone out of fashion, or is a stale product. Although stools as a piece of furniture are always relevant, their design can also change and even go out of fashion. But a discount on a product most often occurs when the product comes with any defects. Therefore, before purchasing a “discounted product”, you should think about it: do you need a defective seat in the kitchen?

Creative wooden stools for the kitchen (photo)

• stool sizes— it is advisable to select seats with dimensions that will allow you to fit all the stools under the table. The most ideal size is 300-400 mm wide, 290-350 mm deep (quadrangular seats), from 300 mm in diameter for round seats. The height can vary from 400 to 500 mm.
• table shape– this must be taken into account without fail. Agree, a rectangular table is unlikely to look good against the background of round stools.
• seat type– soft or hard. Here the “model” options can be very different - who will like what. Someone selects a hard seat, changes the soft bedding every month and enjoys regularly updating the interior with minimal financial costs. But someone wants constant comfort - so the choice is in favor of seats with soft upholstery.
• upholstery type– as a rule, washable upholstery is selected (leatherette, eco-leather, fabric upholstery with soft washable pile).

If you want to buy stools with a depth of 350 mm or more, you will have to settle only on “soft” options, and all because such models do not cause discomfort when sitting at the table (this especially applies to rectangular stools) and do not “cut” into the skin.

Prices for wooden stools start from 450 rubles per piece - such price fluctuations depend on the type of wood, design, upholstery, manufacturer, type of construction and even decor.

DIY wooden stools

pros

Your own is always the best, since it is produced “for yourself”. The advantage of hand-made wooden stools is obvious: the result is a product of the “right” size, with a convenient and practical design and the simplest design. In addition, less money is spent (well, perhaps on materials for production), there is the possibility of decoration and wide scope for creativity.

You can also paint the seat or paint it a single color according to your own taste. And most importantly, such seats will always fit into any kitchen interior, since they will be manufactured “exclusively”. And you can choose the upholstery yourself, soft or simple, to match the curtains and overall kitchen furniture.

The price of wooden stools made by yourself, as a rule, is significantly lower than the market price.

Classic solid wood stool

Minuses

The disadvantage of producing wooden stools is the significant time spent on their production. This statement is more suitable for those who have practically no free time. And also for those who are not used to handling a hammer and nails. However, today in construction departments you can find anything you want - lumber, carpentry tools, and means for finishing/decorating finished stools. And following the instructions for making “seats” yourself, you can quickly learn how to make wooden stools for the kitchen.

Drawings of stools

How to make a stool from wood? Since making a classic stool yourself comes down to several stages, let’s look at each of them in general terms (using visual examples of drawings of wooden stools).

Scheme 1. On straight legs

Material: bars measuring 60x60x400 mm - for legs (4 pcs), bars with spikes (drawbars) measuring 25x60x260 mm (4 pcs), seat - sheet of plywood measuring 300x300x10 mm (1 pc). For soft upholstery, you will need a piece of foam rubber the same size as the seat, and finishing fabric.

Tools: pencil with ruler, jigsaw, wood saw, glue, construction stapler.

The drawers are made as follows: distances of 30 mm are measured at both ends for the tenons, then the ends are filed so that the height of one tenon is 50 mm. The drawers are ready (these are the so-called connecting stiffeners for the stool).

In the leg-bars, grooves should be cut to install drawers with tenons in them (the grooves are first marked with a pencil), then the drawers and legs are fastened together. The length of one groove should be 50 mm, depth – up to 30 mm, width – 10-13 mm. The distances from the edge of the groove to the edge of the leg are 20 mm on top, 10 mm on the sides.

After preparing all the parts, their assembly begins. Before placing the drawers in the grooves, it is necessary to coat both the tenons and the grooves with PVA glue - for better bonding, and then connect tightly. For greater strength, you can secure the parts with screws. In this sequence, all the legs of the stool are connected to each other.

The frame is ready, now all that remains is to put the seat on top and secure it. A sheet of plywood is mounted on self-tapping screws.

Next comes the finishing touch - you can simply coat it with a special wood varnish in several layers, or you can paint it with water-based acrylic paint. If you want to upholster the seat with fabric or leatherette, then before fastening the plywood sheet is first upholstered, the upholstery material is attached with a stapler or glue, and then placed on the frame.

This is the simplest scheme for making a stool yourself from wooden blocks and plywood.

Scheme 2. On bending legs

The design principle is the same, with a difference in the shape of the legs. Naturally, such legs are not bent, but cut out of blocks with a jigsaw. You can shape the legs of the stool by using a stencil made of thick cardboard.

Wooden stools with curly legs in the interior (photo)

Scheme 3. From thick sheets of plywood

This stool is notable for the fact that it is a completely prefabricated structure. First, templates are made on a sheet of thick cardboard (you can take whatman paper in A1 format), with exact dimensions applied on a scale of 1:1. Then the templates are cut out with scissors, laid on plywood (the thickness of the plywood is taken according to the principle “the thicker, the more reliable”, but we should not forget about the complexity of processing the sheets!), and outlined with a pencil.

After transferring the markings, parts of the prefabricated structure are cut out of plywood sheets, which are then assembled like a children's construction set. It's all pretty easy!

Once assembly is complete, file the ends of the legs and sand the seat again.

Decorating stools for the kitchen

The stools are already ready, but there is no finishing? Here you can play out to your heart's content, giving free rein to your imagination! You can paint the seats with legs in bright colorful colors (we use only water-based acrylic paints), or you can varnish them - such stools will look no worse than “painted” ones. You can sew original ones to match the overall style of the room.

You can develop your imagination even further and apply designs using stencils (these are sold in hardware stores and furniture decorating departments). Or you can cover the stools with fabric or wallpaper - if you have “unused excess material” left. The main thing here is imagination, inspiration and taste, so that the result pleases the owners, and such decor is in harmony with the overall interior of your kitchen!

Master class on decorating a wooden stool from Ikea (video):

WITH When we hear “kitchen”, we mean “stool”. In our tiny kitchens, the stool perfectly performs the tasks assigned to it, taking up almost no space. We are looking at stools for the kitchen, not gothic style chairs. Well, if we have to save space, let’s save money at the same time, and figure it out, how to make a stool with your own hands.

If you do not have experience working with wood and wood processing tools, listen to the following tips:

1) Avoid tongue-and-groove joints; their manufacture requires precision and certain work skills, otherwise we will not get a stool, but something shaky, unstable and creaky.

2) A stool is “mobile” furniture, prone to “traveling” around the house, so chipboard should not be used: its edges are prone to rapid destruction, especially if exposed to moisture, and chipboard does not hold screws and other fasteners well.

Materials for making a stool with your own hands

Modern markets abound with furniture of various types and shapes. The materials are also varied: from wood and its derivatives (plywood, chipboard, OSB), to metal, plastic and a couple of other very exotic materials, like glass and stone. We will take the good old tree as a basis!

Our simple in design, but reliable wooden stool will consist of only three elements: a seat, legs and connecting plates. We will need:

1. Beam with a section of 30x30 mm, for legs
2. Board, size 145x300 mm and thickness 20-25 mm – 2 pcs.
3. Plywood, 12 mm thick.
4. Glue.
5. Sandpaper.
6. Acrylic varnish
7. Two dozen screws, 40 mm long.

Tools needed to make a stool

Convenience + speed = quality results. This formula fully characterizes the result of using suitable tools and devices in the work, so let’s prepare:

1) a hacksaw with a fine tooth;
2) cross screwdriver;
3) drill;
4) corner and ruler (carpenter's meter);
5) pencil;
6) drill;
7) soft brush for applying varnish.

Tools are a special topic altogether. A convenient, high-quality, “beautiful” instrument itself inspires creativity. Working with a good tool is a pleasure...

But we digress, let's return to our stool, and finally tell you how to make a stool with your own hands.

In conclusion about the DIY stool

A stool is simple furniture. But it also gives flights of imagination for new creative solutions. You can solve the question of how to make a stool with your own hands using our example. You can come up with your own version. Do it and everything will work out for you!

In progress don't forget about safety precautions. So that the pleasure of work is not overshadowed by cuts and splinters, work carefully, take your time, and don’t be lazy about wearing gloves.

A stool is an integral element, a must-have fixture in any home. It's not too expensive or rare to make your own, but a homemade stool is sure to be more durable and elegant than a standard item from any store. This is what we will talk about today.

Everyone knows the expression: “simple as a stool.” There is a fair amount of truth in it. This piece of furniture in its classic design is laconic and strict.

It is difficult to do without a stool in the kitchen and workshop, in the garage and in the bathhouse. It is needed wherever cramped conditions do not allow for larger furniture to be placed. For a home craftsman, making such a thing is the best way to gain practical skills in carpentry.

In this article we will introduce you to the varieties of wooden stools and tell you about the features of making them yourself. We hope that after this you will be able to confidently get to work and please your family with this useful piece of furniture.

Before you make a stool with your own hands, you should learn more about what carpentry masters in this area have come up with. First, let's study the sketch of a simple product and remember the names of the main parts. This will help us speak the same language using common terms.

So, a classic stool consists of a seat and four legs. The bars of the upper belt serve as a support for the seat and are called tsarg. The lower stiffening belt connecting the legs also consists of four bars called pro-legs. Through experience, the craftsmen established the optimal dimensions: height 50 cm, seat width 45 cm.

Stools made of logs, saw cuts and branches

By abandoning the legs, the seat can be made from an ordinary log. By sawing it into several logs and equipping each with a soft pad, we will get an original set for a country holiday.

The disadvantage of this solution is obvious - heavy weight, which creates inconvenience when carrying.

Here's what you can do by combining wooden legs with a massive seat made from a rounded piece of log. This unusual stool claims to be a designer find.

There are no drawers or legs here. The rigidity of the structure is ensured by a massive seat, into which four legs are embedded at 1/3 of its height.

Anyone who is good with a chainsaw can create an original piece of furniture from a log. To do this, you need to make three neat side cuts in a thick block of wood to form the legs. Having made precise markings on the scraps of one trunk, you can cut them out into a set of two stools, nested one inside the other.

Continuing the “forest theme”, let’s see what can be built from the material lying under our feet. A beautiful product can be made from thick branches, freed from bark and polished. This design has one original detail - a drawer for household items located under the seat. The lid is assembled from planed boards mounted on wooden tenons and glue.

This piece of furniture will fit perfectly into a rustic interior style, which is characterized by massive wooden beams, stairs and tables. But it is unlikely to take root in an ordinary kitchen.

Cutting a log makes a ready-made seat for a stool. By cutting three legs from thick branches into it, we get a durable and attractive structure.

Hemp and forks of trunks can be used as bases for the manufacture of original products. Sanded and topped with thick log cuts, they fit perfectly into the interior of a log cabin.

Traditional simple stools

Timeless classics live not only in the facades of buildings. Time-tested solutions are also preserved in the designs of stools. Adding smooth lines to their appearance eliminates boring angularity.

In the photo below we see the classic version. Thanks to the rounded drawers and legs, it looks quite decent. The milled grooves on the legs also improve its appearance.

Simplicity has its own charm. Designers successfully play with this quality, creating deliberately rough, brutal products. Artificially aging furniture is not an easy task. The author had to work a lot on the product, the photo of which we see below.

The category of classic “stool design” includes designs with drawers under the seat. To do this, use wide side frames and hinged lids.

Sophistication and originality

Not everyone likes the hard seat and angular shape of the stool. For fans of aesthetics and comfort, craftsmen offer elegant products with curved legs and soft upholstery.

It is difficult for a beginner to make bent curly legs. Without compromising their beauty, they can be replaced with two pairs of crossed bars connected by a crossbar. But you shouldn’t give up soft foam upholstery.

Let's ask ourselves the question: what is needed to assemble a homemade wooden stool? Four thick boards for the seat, legs and crossbar. By decorating them with carvings, we get an exquisite and high-quality product. You can use it with pleasure at home, and on occasion, make it an exhibit of an exhibition of folk crafts.

When planning to make your first “masterpiece”, do not forget about using firing, stain and varnish for decoration. Even the simplest piece of furniture acquires a noble gloss after finishing with contrast tinting.

In addition to natural wood, stools can be made from chipboard and thick plywood. This solution reduces their weight without losing strength. In the photo below we see an interesting plywood structure. Slotted holes in the seat and legs give it beauty and delicacy.

Square, round and oval seats are yesterday's carpentry art. Today, original solutions are in fashion. From these you can assemble a bench of any length and configuration. Invite your friends to visit and show them this miracle. Among them, there will probably be those who want to play with an unusual furniture “constructor”.

Bar stools

Anyone who believes that a stool must necessarily be low and nondescript is mistaken. Designers successfully prove the opposite. A little imagination and a familiar piece of furniture becomes a “fashionable thing” in the avant-garde style.

The high stool captured in the photo is a bar option. They can decorate the interior of a cafe and the decor of your own apartment. Its lower brother, made in the same style, will take its rightful place at the dining table made of Euro pallets.

These days, bar seats are popular not only in catering establishments, but also in home settings. The tradition of placing bar counters in apartments, which came from overseas, caused a real boom in these products.

A high stool is convenient not only for drinking cocktails at the bar. It can be successfully used as a stand when picking fruit.

Folding stools

There are a huge variety of them, from the simplest solutions to very complex transformers.

We present to your attention an original folding design. It consists of two rectangular frame-legs connected in the center by a metal axis. The support frames are attached to the seat with carpentry hinges. When folded, the axle moves along two slots cut into one of the legs. The seat rotates on hinges and stands upright.

Here is another version of a folding stool. His seat is made of two halves. When folded, the legs rotate around an axis and are placed in the same plane. The seat halves are pressed against them on both sides.

Fans of complex folding systems are offered an option consisting of eight pairs of lattice legs connected at the base by a common bar.

The upper ends of the legs on one side are hingedly connected to the seat, which is also made of bars. To fold the structure, take it by the lower slats and move them in the opposite direction. In this case, the lattice legs and seat bars fit into the gaps provided for them, and the stool becomes flat.

Another option is a folding stool with a “crawler” seat. Despite the simplicity of the design, it looks very original. Its two crossed legs are hinged in the center and connected at the top by a wooden segmental seat. By holding the edges, you can easily fold and unfold this stool.

DIY example

Having finished the brief overview, it's time to start the practical part. We offer you a step-by-step guide. Let's say right away that it is better for beginners to avoid tongue-and-groove joints. They require good carpentry skills and the presence of a special tool - a milling machine or, at worst, a hand router.

To work you will need several tools:

• Tape measure or ruler;
• Hand saw with fine teeth;
• Jigsaw for cutting legs and seat;
• Screwdriver for drilling holes and tightening screws;
• Belt sander for smoothing sharp edges on parts;
• PVA glue or wood glue.

Step one– using a hacksaw from a 30 mm thick planed pine board, we cut blanks for the legs and seat. If there is no board wide enough to make a solid seat, then it can be assembled from several narrow scraps. To do this, you need to mark and drill holes in their side edges for dowels. Having smeared the dowels with glue, they are inserted into the boards, assembled into a single panel and secured with carpentry clamps. After a day, you can start making the seat.

Step two– cut out the profile of one leg from thick cardboard and transfer it to all the blanks. We do the same with the seat blank.

Step three– We cut out the legs and seat with a jigsaw, and then sand their sharp edges with a grinder.

Step four— we assemble the legs in pairs, screwing self-tapping screws into their ends. We also use self-tapping screws to connect pairs of legs together. We arrange them so that they do not meet with previously twisted ones.

Step five– marking holes for dowels on the legs and seat. Having done this work, lubricate the tenons with wood glue and place the seat on the base.

Anyone who wants to simplify the work a little can refuse to fasten the seat with dowels. Instead, you can screw four screws directly through the lid into the legs from above. To ensure that they do not stand out on a flat surface, drill shallow secret nests for them in advance. After screwing, putty them with wood putty and cover the product with varnish and stain.