Homemade wooden stools. DIY stool made of wood - drawings DIY stools for the kitchen made of wood

1. Tool
2. About the sizes of stools
3. Three parts
4. From 3 to 5
5. Simple kitchen
6. Spreader
7. More connections
8. Real kitchen

The world of stools is vast and varied; photo in fig. give only a general idea of ​​its range. It is with a stool that many amateur carpenters begin their creative journey: you can make a simple, but practical and pleasant-looking stool with your own hands in half an evening, and in the future, stools of other types will allow you to master the essential subtleties of furniture craftsmanship, and not a single product will be superfluous in the house.

Other pieces of furniture do not have such amazing properties; This is explained, on the one hand, by the fact that the stool is essentially extremely simple, purely practical and comes from ancient times: the wooden logs on which cavemen sat around the fire are already stools. For the same reason, a stool must endure everything, be strong, reliable, and durable.

On the other hand, the simplicity of the form and design allows the stool to fit into any interior and generally be at home in any environment. Over the centuries and millennia, this certainly had to be appreciated, and was appreciated, as a suitable basis for the embodiment of certain aesthetic concepts in the material. Such an exquisite piece of furniture as a banquette is also nothing more than a stool. Ornate design and decor require the use of complex technological techniques, so to make a luxurious stool, you will need a fair amount of skill and experience. It is much easier to purchase both when working with a familiar base, and here the stool provides a full range of products from the completely primitive to the most technologically sophisticated.

Stools are made from a variety of materials, from rope to stone. Plastic stools have long been commonplace, and forged or welded metal ones are also not unique, but in this publication we will figure out how to make a stool from wood. The reason, in addition to the “originality” of the material, is that it is a wooden stool can be extremely simple, durable, reliable, and at the same time have high aesthetic merits. How so? Well, let's go!

Tool

Making a stool begins with preparing the tool and workplace. Don't worry, we won't immediately advise spending a decent salary on a wood milling machine, drilling machine, planer saw and lathe. Let's try to do without even a carpentry workbench. Maybe it will come to all this when a taste for work appears and income from it appears. For now, we will limit ourselves to the minimum that will allow us to work from a table on the balcony or in the garage, laying a film on the floor so as not to spread sawdust. And this minimum of tools should be useful on the farm in general, in case (everyone has their own inclinations) the first stool turns out to be the last.

So, to begin with, in addition to an electric drill, you will need a pair of C-shaped carpentry clamps for 180-220 mm (top left in the figure), one (preferably 2) F-shaped for 400-500 mm, at the top in the center, and, preferably, clothespin clamp, top right. They are inexpensive, and their range of applications besides carpentry is very wide.

Buying a jigsaw, of course, would be a good idea; it is not that expensive and is suitable for a wide variety of jobs. But at first, you can use it instead... a frame hacksaw for metal; These are also sold as mini hacksaws. Just don’t take entirely plastic ones (bottom left in the figure, pos. a). This is a tool for rare occasional use. Such a miracle can be found on the Internet for as much as 18 rubles, but the plastic sponges are quickly eaten up by the steel of the blade, and an “ultra-cheap” hacksaw is not enough for a good stool. You need to take a mini hacksaw with a steel frame, pos. b. It will cost about 50 rubles, but you can work with it for a long time and regularly.

To work on wood, the blade is inserted into the frame hacksaw “incorrectly”, with the cutting edges of the teeth towards you (upper insert in pos. b). Then, using a section of the canvas in the frame, you can saw across the grain, along and obliquely. In any case, the cut comes out even and smooth, literally mirror-like; When sawing layer by layer, only under-dried or newly damp coniferous wood becomes a little shaggy. In this way, for example, the tenons for the groove are filed, see below. Again, the “wrong” way to cut wood with a frame saw is to start from the corner, because wood is softer than any structural metal.

Using a protruding section (cantilever) of the blade to make a curved cut is slower than with a jigsaw, but, with some attention and accuracy, just as accurate. When working at home, it is advisable to thread the blade, as it should be in a mechanic's fashion, with the ridges of the teeth away from you, so that the sawdust falls down, clogging the markings. In this case, you also need to saw like a metalworker: hold the tool level, without tilting it along the cut, do not lean too hard, and allow a swing (working stroke) of no more than 1.5-2 widths of the blade. Also, with the “wing” of the blade, the protruding ends of dowels and through tenons are sawed off no worse than with a special flexible saw, which is several times more expensive.

Next, wood files - rasps. You will need 2 of them: straight semicircular 200x20 mm, pos. in, etc. cabinet, also semicircular (250-300)x30 mm, pos. d. A cabinet rasp differs from a straight rasp not only in its narrowed end, but also in the method of notching. Both of them have a notch, of course, that is not at all the same as that of metal files; those on the tree instantly become clogged with sawdust. Depending on the properties of the wood and the area being processed (end, edge, face), it may be more convenient to work with one or another rasp.

Then, chisels. We will need simple straight wood chisels with a width of 6-8 and 20 mm. It would also be a good idea to purchase a set of 6-40 mm chisels, consisting of 3-5 samples. Often a set of chisels comes with a wooden mallet, which otherwise needs to be purchased separately. However, you can make a mallet, like a clothespin clamp, with your own hands from hard, fine-grained wood.

About the sizes of stools

The dimensions of the stool seat, as a rule, are taken in the range from 300x300 to 450x450 mm or, if the stool is round, of the same diameter. Minimum – 250x250 mm; sitting on a 200 mm board is already uncomfortable; after 5-15 minutes, the edges of even a soft, but too narrow seat crash into the vast elastic “fifth point”.

The total height of the stool is taken, according to height, in the range of 420-480 mm. The height of a children's or utility stool can be reduced to 260-280 mm; in this case, the seat is made approximately 260x260 mm or with a diameter of 270-280 mm.

Note: When designing a stool yourself, you should remember that the contour of its supporting surface must be no less than 280x280 mm or a diameter of 320 mm for a stool of normal height and no less than 250x250 mm or a diameter of 290 mm for a stool of reduced height, otherwise both will turn out to be unstable. For decorative and folding stools, these values ​​can be reduced by 1.25 times.

Three parts

Yes, a good stool, incl. decorative for the living room, can be assembled from just 3 parts. Drawings of a product of this kind (stools-cabinets) are given on the left in Fig. The version of 4 parts is unsightly, but very durable, therefore it is more suitable as a working stool: you can attach a removable vice on it, drill, saw, chop, etc. In this case, it is better to take the overall dimensions of the 4-piece stool to be minimal, see above.

The sample on the left in Fig. – one of the very few types of stools that can be made entirely from chipboard with a thickness of 20 mm or more; The width of the connecting grooves in the parts corresponds to the thickness of the material. The base is assembled with glue (carpentry glue, nitro glue for wood, PVA or polymer for tiles like bustylate). Seat fastening – wood self-tapping screws or confirmatory screws (60-90) x 6 mm. Screw connections are also glued.

The fact is that chipboard really “does not like” loads on the layer and fastening at the end. In this design, the loads concentrated at the attachment points spread well and, if assembled correctly, delamination of the material is unlikely. But it is still highly advisable to glue pads made of hard, dense wood (oak, beech, hornbeam) with a thickness of 10 mm or more onto the heels of the legs. No need for rubber, it will stain and ruin the floor.

From 3 to 5

The version of the supporting structure of the stool, shown on the right in the figure, allows, on the one hand, to get rid of the rather labor-intensive and responsible cutting of long, even grooves, which is especially important when working with a hand saw. On the other hand, it allows you to get legs of a rather bizarre shape without a significant increase in material waste, because workpieces are marked with minimal technological gaps on a board 200-250 mm wide.

The “highlight” here is that 2 of the 3 parts of the previous design (namely, the legs) “halve” lengthwise. The base is assembled in a cross (diagram at the top right) similar to the previous one. option, i.e. with gluing all connections:

• Drill holes for self-tapping screws; You don't have to select holes for the fastener heads.
• Dry assembly is carried out and, if necessary, parts are adjusted.
• Inject 3-4 drops of glue into the holes under the fasteners and spread it inside with a thin splinter.
• Apply glue to the mating surfaces.
• Maintain parts until the glue sticks to visible surfaces.
• The entire assembly is assembled quickly and tightly using hardware.

Also pay attention to the side surface, marked with the letter A. Before installing the seat, you can put on it a round shell, rolled from thin fiberboard. The shell is installed using glue and small hardware (screws, nails). After assembling and finishing the entire product, the shell can be decorated, incl. very impressive stucco molding from polymer clay and get a truly luxurious stool.

4 parts

Stools-benches of a box-shaped design made of 4 boards (a seat, 2 side panels-legs and a vertical longitudinal insert-support beam, on the left in the figure) are widely known and have been described many times. However, such a stool is simple and cheap only in appearance: for proper strength and reliability, its parts need to be cut from a block of durable wood or chipboard with a thickness of 40 mm and a width of 250 mm. Both materials are not cheap; scraps suitable for a stool most often do not go to waste, and it is not easy to find them for sale or in your own pantry.

Meanwhile, a utility and work stool-bench can be made literally from scrap materials, scraps of timber from 30x30 and plywood from 2.5 mm as follows, on the right in the figure:

1. Sections of timber are welded into panels (leg blanks) end-to-end with glue, as described below;
2. One side of each panel is covered with plywood under pressure (compression with clamps);
3. Cut out corner grooves in the leg blanks for the same beam and use a chisel to select holes for the screed from the same beam;
4. Cover the front sides of the legs with plywood in the same way as in step 2;
5. Assemble the supporting box of the stool using glue and self-tapping screws;
6. The seat is attached, which in this case can be made of plywood from 6 mm or boards from 12 mm. You can simply install the seat on the glue; all operating loads are already taken care of by the box.

Simple kitchen

A simple full-size utility stool can also be made from scraps of timber, plywood or chipboard, see fig. It is more suitable for a seasonal garden. When used in the kitchen of a residential building, the design turns out to be rather weak, where this stool lasts for 3-5 years. The second option for using the same design is a smaller children's stool, see above; the dimensions of the parts are then proportionally reduced, except for the width of the connecting grooves.

Spreader

A step stool with 2 pairs of X-shaped legs is also quite popular due to its low material consumption and good decorative qualities. However, in reality it turns out to be not so simple.

Take a look at the subassembly marked in red in the fragment at the top left of the figure. Performing a strong and reliable insertion of 3 beams in 2 mutually perpendicular planes is not an easy task even for an experienced carpenter; putting a dowel there will be unreliable, and the self-tapping screw in this case is outright hackwork: the double crosshair is heavily loaded and the steel hardware will tear the wood.

These problems can be circumvented by combining the beam and box-type load-bearing circuits of the supporting structure. We will leave the openwork of the beam frame in the most noticeable place - at the bottom - and we will achieve overall strength with an “oak” box-shaped top. Technically, this is achieved by reducing the angle between the legs to 60 degrees. Then, in order to maintain the overall height of the stool and the width of the contour of the supporting surface within acceptable limits, the crosshairs of the legs move upward. The V-shaped part of the now asymmetrical X is high and wide enough that a strong box can be made from 20 mm or thicker pine boards, chipboard or plywood, see left in figure.

Note: the missing overall dimensions can be taken from the figure; it is drawn to scale.

The longitudinal walls of the box do not have to be inclined; This is done to reduce the visibility of the box while maintaining maximum volume. If the longitudinal walls of the box are straight, it can be made narrower, as long as the V-shaped part of the legs fits inside. It also doesn’t hurt to deepen the box by moving its bottom down; the whole stool will only be stronger. In this case, 1-2 attachment points are added to the ?-shaped parts of the legs, similar to the V-shaped part, marked in green in Fig. The box is assembled on dowels (see below) and glue or on steel corners applied from the inside. In this case, the box is first glued, and after 1/4-1/3 of the time the glue has completely hardened, it is finally fastened with steel.

First, when choosing excess from the groove (pos. 1d), there is no need to bring it to complete rectangularity. It is better to leave the edges (short sides) of the groove rounded, and round the edges of the tenon accordingly, so the entire connection will be stronger.

Secondly, the tenon does not have to be made on a router; it will not take much longer to cut it out by hand with the same frame hacksaw. First, at the level of the base of the tenon, the workpiece is sawed across the contour 0.5-1 mm less than the required depth, retreating from the markings to the end of the workpiece by 0.5-1 mm. Drilling down to the full depth is also not a big sin, but then a shallow narrow groove will remain along the contour of the base of the tenon. If you don’t finish sawing a little, then the base of the tenon, due to the elasticity of the tree, will be slightly wider, and the whole connection will again be stronger.

The tenon is finally cut out from the end along the fibers, retreating 0.5-1 mm outward from the markings. Here, for the same reason, the cut is also not completed by 1-1.5 mm, and the excess is simply broken off. If the wood is straight-grained coniferous, the excess will at some point crack on its own and hang on the fibers or fall off. Adjust the tenon to size and round its edges with a rasp.

Note: When developing wooden structures yourself, do not forget - all tenons should be directed only and only along the layer! The thickness of the tenon for ordinary industrial wood, unless otherwise indicated on the drawings, is taken by default at 1/3 of the thickness of the thinnest of the mating parts.

As for dowels (round connecting bosses), it is better to buy ready-made wooden ones. The cost of ready-made dowels is cheap; they are already chamfered and grooved, which makes the glued connection stronger. Plastic dowels do not dry out along with the wood and therefore the connection weakens over time.

The main rule when choosing dowels is that their wood should dry out a little slower than structural wood or at the same speed; this condition is almost always met if the wood of the dowel is harder. Drying out the dowel is difficult because its contact with air is limited. As the part dries out, it will compress the dowel; The lignin between it and the dowel is gradually “soldered together” and the connection becomes stronger over time.

The diameter of the dowels is taken to be 2.5-3 times less than the thickness of the narrowest part to be connected; its length is 1.75 times the thickness of the thinnest part. The last dowel (if it is not through) should fit 2/3-3/4 of its thickness, and the rest of it should sit in the thicker part.

Note: holes for blind dowels in thin boards are selected so-called. with a Forstner drill, see below, leaving behind an almost flat bottom.

Also a useful stool

Well, are you going to make a tenon and groove with your hands? Then it’s time to start making a simple folding wooden stool, see picture, for a summer house, garden, picnic. 2-3 of these stools will not take up much space in the closet and will fit in the trunk of a car. Material: board or plywood. It is highly advisable to impregnate all parts from the latter with a water-polymer emulsion before assembling the product; it will not only protect against moisture and rot, but also strengthen the structure.

How to make a grab

Taking a folding stool with a round seat simply by the seat is not entirely convenient, so the hand grip on the sample above is not a whim. In a solid board, the grip is cut out as usual: using a feather or core drill, holes are drilled along its edges (diameter - 24-36 mm; distance between centers 95-115 mm, depending on the hand), and the excess between them is sawed out. In this case, it is also convenient to use a frame saw.

It’s another matter if the grip is at the junction of the boards; This most often happens in classic kitchen stools, see below. Here the beak of the feather or the pioneer drill/guide pin of the crown when working with a hand drill will definitely go along the groove and the drill will lead to the right. A jig made of thick plywood or cutting a board does not help, the thin side of the feather or the teeth of the crown tear it, and they themselves catch on the steel jig.

It is for such cases, as well as for drilling holes with a flat bottom, that the Forstner drill is intended, see Fig., its side surface is smooth. When making a hand grip in the seat of a stool, first drill holes in the jig according to the dimensions indicated above; there is a surplus left! The jig is then placed in place, securely secured with a pair of C-clamps, and the edge holes are drilled. The excess in the part is chosen as always; the gap between the boards is not a hindrance for this.

Real kitchen

Now we have classic stools for the kitchen. During use, they suffer more than others, so their design is carried out according to all the rules of strength: a rigid beam frame, capable of withstanding all operating loads, and a seat that must be held firmly in place, but in such a way that, if necessary, it can be easily repaired or replace. Therefore, the seat of a kitchen stool is made of panel boards from cohesive planks (see below) and attached to biscuit stands or directly to the frame on dowels.

The option with breadcrumbs is shown in rice; pos. A – its general diagram and names of its components. The advantage of this design is the low requirements for the quality of the seat shield. By installing a pair of crackers on each drawer (this will not reduce the overall strength of the product), you can make the seat out of separate boards, and on the original 4 crackers - with plywood or chipboard.

Pay attention to the drawers, these are not just boards, they are all over the furniture, and not only in furniture. In general, a drawer is a part that properly distributes loads in an assembly unit and is itself capable of bearing the load. Drawers can be found in the still, pipelines, etc., which have nothing to do with furniture.

Also pay attention to pos. E, it shows a way to check the evenness of pairs of legs using diagonals; it is basically the same as checking the squareness of the foundation. When assembling a classic stool, the evenness of the pairs is checked three times, see fig. right: in pairs assembled separately (left pose and red lines), between pairs (orange lines on the central pose) and the overall rectangularity of the frame (brown lines in the center). The seat is installed only after complete check of levelness; filing the legs of a finished stool is complete unprofessionalism.

Below in Fig. – drawings of a stool for the kitchen with a seat mounted on dowels. This design is less labor-intensive and material-intensive, because operations for the manufacture and installation of crackers are eliminated, but the seat panel must be firmly solidified, see below. If the frames are installed on the legs, they should not reach the floor by 20-40 mm, so as not to scratch it.

Note: The cuts of the tenons at 45 degrees in both cases are made with the same frame hacksaw. A fixed miter box (device for sawing at an angle) at fixed angles of 90, 45 and 60 degrees costs no more than 50 rubles.

How to join boards into a shield

The boards that will now be the plots of the set (package) are usually joined into boards with glue using special clips - weims, top left in Fig. In weims, small additionally secured shields, like for the seat of a stool, can be simply joined together end-to-end. Large panels, say, for a table top or the side of a cabinet, are joined together (middle row from left to right) with a tongue and groove, in a rebate, on dowels, dowels (lamellas) and other methods.

In handicraft work, clamps are sometimes replaced with various homemade devices on the same principle (compressing the set with pairs of wedges), at the top right, and now more and more often with large F-shaped clamps. In this case, a rather labor-intensive preparation of the plots is necessary for consolidation using methods a, c or d. However, there is still no guarantee that the set, when compressed, if it does not rear up all like an accordion, will go in a wave, because It is impossible to achieve absolutely precise mating of wooden parts under load due to the low local strength of the wood.

However, there is a way to attach the shield to the seat of a stool end-to-end, completely even and without complex devices, this is the so-called. twisted rim with cheek liners; its diagram is given below in Fig. Step-by-step bonding of the shield in a twisted wire is carried out as follows:

1. The lower (according to the diagram) plywood cheek is placed on the table;
2. The table with the cheek is covered with plastic film;
3. Glue is applied to the edges of the plots and kept until tack-free or according to the glue instructions;
4. The plots are placed on the lower cheek on top of the film and, if possible, squeezed tightly with your hands;
5. Wrap the set in film;
6. Apply the upper cheek;
7. The entire package is carefully, without lifting or turning over, moved to the edge of the table so that some part of the set hangs above the floor;
8. Begin winding the cord, applying the turns as tightly as possible, but not too tightly;
9. When the bag is wrapped about 1/3 or more, it can be removed from the table and wound by weight;
10. The ends of the cord are tied;
11. Insert wedges under the winding, tapping with a mallet. You need 4 wedges, they are inserted evenly from 4 sides (2 from above and 2 from below), tapping alternately;
12. When the wedges pull all the turns of the winding tightly evenly, the bag is left until the glue dries completely;
13. After the glue has dried, the winding, cheeks and film are removed, and the set is cut to size.

The cross section of the wedges does not have to be rectangular; it is possible to use round sticks cut obliquely; There is only one condition - the wedges need to be smooth. It is advisable to use a slippery propylene cord; packaging twine will do. The thickness of the wedges is determined based on existing experience. If there is none, then the package is first assembled dry, without glue, and the thickness of the wedges is selected so that they fit completely under the winding, pulling its turns tightly.

How about softer? DIY stool covers

Sitting on a hard one for a long time is understandably unpleasant. A comfortable stool on a classic kitchen frame can be made with a wicker seat, without bothering with breadcrumbs, dowels and a shield, see fig. The seat material is colored propylene twine and smooth linen cord.

It is highly desirable for decorative stools in the living room to be beautifully soft, and it wouldn’t hurt to give a kitchen stool some shine. But there is not and cannot be a stool on which no one would ever stand. Or, at least, he did not feel a strong desire to do this for completely objective reasons caused by the prevailing circumstances. Hence the conclusion: the stool needs a soft, elegant pad on the seat - a seat - which, if necessary, could be removed without fiddling for a long time, and just as quickly put back.

The first thing that comes to mind in this case is a decorative pillow, see for example. video below. But the pillow can be accidentally dumped on the floor, and it itself will slowly slide down there. Another option is a case with a soft liner. A cover for a chair or armchair is a rather complex sewing product, but with a stool the situation is simpler.

Video: decorative pillow on a stool/chair

Covers for stools are made mainly of the following types, see fig. Pos. 1 – cape with ties. This is the easiest thing to sew, but the ties stick out in plain sight, and there is a lot of fiddling around with them, especially if the stool is for children and the baby has figured out something of his own with the knots.

The next option is a cape with an elastic band. She can look great, pos. 2, and you can remove it by simply pulling it off. The structure of a stool cover is generally the same as permanent soft upholstery: from bottom to top, foam rubber, synthetic padding and upholstery fabric, but there are a couple of tricks here.

Firstly, it is better to take foam rubber from PVC, yellowish soft, pos. 3. It is not suitable for permanent upholstery of furniture, because... relatively short-lived. But in the case of a stool, another feature comes to the fore: it adheres well to wood, incl. varnished, so that the cape will not slide to the side and under the angry rider.

Secondly, it is better to cut the cover for a square stool diagonally, i.e. The warp and weft of the fabric should go from corner to corner. In this case, there is no need for cutting as such: the cut is thrown onto the seat (the folds create beautiful and smoothly fitting corners), where to cut is marked, cut and sewn.

Note: the cover for the round stool needs to be cut; an example of its manufacture - see the video below:

Video: simple do-it-yourself cover for a round stool

An option that is also quite soft, original, beautiful and grippy to wood is a rug for a stool using the patchwork technique, i.e. patchwork, pos. 4; see e.g. plot:

Video: seat-mat on a stool using patchwork technique

Finally, a knitted cape, pos. 5. This option is labor-intensive and almost exclusively decorative. It allows you to achieve a magnificent visual effect, but, alas, a knitted cape will retain its appearance for a long time only on a stool that is not sat on.

In conclusion: immediate aerobatics

Stools with diverging legs are very elegant. It is generally accepted that they are not for everyone. The reason is drilling holes at a precisely specified angle; see fig. for example. drawings of details of a stool with turned legs. Here, firstly, you cannot do without a drilling machine. A relatively inexpensive benchtop stand for a drill does not help: the shaft cage in it is too short, which is why, in combination with the plastic body, the drill moves by half a degree, or even more. Such an error is enough to make the stool crooked and shaky.

Secondly, adjusting the parts of a stool of this design during the assembly process is excluded; everything must be done immediately exactly to size from solid, high-quality wood. See the steel plate at the bottom right in the picture? This is a gauge for checking the diameter of studs. In this case, regardless of the design and overall design, they must be round, i.e. You also need a wood lathe.

Now let’s go back to the “3 to 5” stool. Let's reduce the size g to 100 mm, this is acceptable. Is it now possible to make this stool with spreading legs? Quite. They will, of course, not be chiseled and not quite round, but the grace and lightness of the stool will be preserved. This is what the aesthetic potential of a stool means in practice.

A stool is an integral element, a must-have fixture in any home. It's not too expensive or rare to make your own, but a homemade stool is sure to be more durable and elegant than a standard item from any store. This is what we will talk about today.

Self-made furniture undoubtedly has advantages over expensive samples purchased in specialized stores and showrooms. Man-made objects have precisely specified characteristics, and in addition carry a piece of the soul of the master who had a hand in their creation.

The simplest item of everyday use, a chair made of wood, is quite easy to make yourself, having basic knowledge in the field of carpentry and having studied the technical details. For productive work, the main thing that you should pay attention to is drawing up a clear action plan, having the appropriate tools and lumber, as well as the ability to organize your work according to the drawings.

Wood selection

Before you make a chair, you will have to learn the basics of carpentry and understand the features of using the most popular types of wood. Some types of wood are easier to work with than others and also have a greater margin of strength.

Glued is cheaper than solid, although in this case it is necessary to take into account the final goal and purpose. These subtleties will have to be taken into account so that the resulting product is durable and beautiful. It is important that the lumber is of high quality and has undergone the necessary pre-treatment.

No cracks are allowed on the boards; the edges must have even cuts and be thoroughly cleaned. Remaining knots can affect the production result, so you should not use such specimens to make your own work easier.

Pine and beech are the right choices, as they are strong enough and have the necessary characteristics to create a high-quality product. In addition, these breeds are quite common and availability problems usually do not arise. This is exactly the case when excessive savings are not the best choice, since we are talking about the production of an item of everyday use.

Action plan

Before starting work, you should carefully prepare and study a lot of samples; photographs depicting chairs made by yourself in various modifications using different types of wood will help with this. You need to take care of the availability of tools, prepare enough lumber, or better yet, with some reserve. Such forethought will save valuable time and nerves if something does not go as planned during the process.

Having the ability to draw and create drawings will provide invaluable assistance in the project, although it is quite possible to get by with ready-made instructions and photographs of ready-made models. You will also have to take care of the presence of fasteners, screws, fittings, glue and other important details for production so that the structure is durable and reliable in operation.

Options

Drawings of chairs that can be found in the public domain offer a choice of several of the most common and popular models. Folding and with a back, rocking chairs and on wheels differ rather in additional elements, but at the same time they are united by a common scheme.

Therefore, after practicing on easy modifications, which include a stool, it is easy to later move on to more complex and original options.

This does not mean that everything will be simple; it will require patience, skill and mastery of the main tool of any home craftsman - your own skillful hands.

Skills in handling tools will be useful in any case, since without them it is impossible to create wooden furniture. By devoting some time and attention to creativity, you can count on an excellent result that will delight your household and become an object of pride for the master.

Stool

Useful for beginners to gain confidence in their abilities. Fits perfectly into the concept of movement from simple to complex. This option will serve well as country furniture, and equipped with a soft base it will always come in handy as a convenient kitchen attribute.

First, work is carried out on measuring and preparing the material. You need four bars with an equal cross-section, which must be polished before further manipulations, and roughness and nicks are removed.

Eight jumpers are needed to secure the seat and ensure the structural strength of the legs. Spikes are made at the ends of the jumpers, and holes are drilled in the legs. This fastening, additionally reinforced with special glue, will help hold the structure and provide the necessary rigidity and reliability.

For the seat, it is better to use a solid piece of wood or several planks of equal width. Regardless of the chosen lumber, it will need to be carefully sanded to avoid injury later.

Assembly is carried out depending on the selected drawing using self-tapping screws, and glue will also be required at the joints. The finished stool should be left to dry for a while, and then varnished or a comfortable seat made of soft material.

Detailed assembly instructions and exact dimensions can be easily found or drawn yourself, and various options with photographs will make the creation process easier.

Option with backrest

A chair with a backrest has a wide range of possibilities for everyday use. This model is most often found in finished drawings and has a lot of modifications. Among the general details, one can highlight features that are characteristic of all such types of chairs without exception.

The front legs must be precisely measured in length to ensure maximum comfort when seated. They can be straight or curved, decorated with various details of external decor - it all depends on the needs and imagination of the master.

The rear legs are the supporting part, and therefore are often thicker than the front ones, especially for variations with reclining and inclined backs. Moreover, in some cases it is possible to create a chair with legs of equal length and a right angle to the seat, that is, technically it will be a stool design, additionally equipped with a backrest as an element that increases ease of use.

The drawers, which are located under the seat, provide support for the horizontal part. They also strengthen the structure and help maintain the stability of the finished product.

Jumpers serve to strengthen the position of the front and rear legs, while in a number of models they are used in the amount of two pieces, and sometimes four are needed.

The back is just a distinctive feature and can be made in a variety of variations. A single piece or a composite of several parts, decorated with carved decorative elements or upholstered in fabric - here, too, everything will depend on the purpose of the item and on how much skill will allow you to realize the ideas that arise.

The seat of the chairs is usually made from a single piece of plywood, but sometimes an upholstered base can be used.

It is better to have fasteners and decorative parts that may be required during production in stock, since sometimes additional fasteners are required to strengthen the structure or serve other purposes

Possible ways to refresh old furniture

In addition to independently producing new items for country or apartment interiors, sometimes you can use designer tricks to give a new look to familiar things. A flight of fancy in the process can lead to the creation of stunning and absolutely unique items.

To restore chairs, you can use inexpensive paints and varnishes, old fabrics and woolen threads, and plastic. A preliminary sketch will be a very good assistant, which will help to better imagine the final result of the creative process.

It is also important to consider that the new item fits organically into the overall decor of the room, serves as decoration and retains its functional features.

In some cases, you first need to repair old furniture to restore its strength. Repair work can be carried out using knowledge in the field of carpentry. It may be necessary to purchase lumber to restore a dented seat or rickety supports.

Any chair will take on a new look and become an interesting interior detail if you equip it with soft upholstery or a cover. For upholstery, it is important to choose a fabric and match the color with the overall range of decoration in the room.

Handmade chair covers, in addition to their decorative function, carry a number of practical and functional advantages. For example, if there is a desire, then it is worth making several options for winter and summer conditions, and if necessary, the cover can be easily removed and washed or dry cleaned.

Having a good imagination, you can create amazing and unique things with your own hands at home, using your skills for good, and also saving money on the purchase of ready-made furnishings.

Photos of DIY chairs

A stool is a familiar, comfortable and compact piece of furniture that is most often used in the kitchen or country house. Chairs purchased in a store and made from wood composites do not always meet all consumer requirements in terms of aesthetics and practicality for such conditions, and they are also quite expensive. This is why the question arises of how to make a stool with your own hands from wood so that it is reliable and lasts for many years.

Anyone who started making furniture with such a simple product as a stool, having become skilled at it, may later want to make more complex and large-scale structures, for example, a table, a cabinet, or something, which will save a decent amount of money for the family budget.

Popular types of stools

Even such a simple piece of furniture can be made in different variations and used for different needs. To decide which model you would like to obtain as a result of the work, you should consider several similar products.

Children's stool

This stool option will not be out of place in any home, as it is convenient not only for children, but also for adults. It is light in weight and compact in size, so it can easily be moved to any convenient place in the yard or house where it is needed at the moment, and even a small child can move it.

It is best to make such a model from a solid board, which should be well processed first. If you want the stool to be very light, then dry linden is used to make it, which has a beautiful textured pattern and very low density.

If the thickness of the board taken for a small stool is at least 25÷30 mm, then only three main parts will need to be made - these are two legs and a seat, which can be fastened with dowels, even without the use of additional reinforcing elements.

All parts of the product must not have sharp corners or burrs. The workpieces must be rounded and well sanded so that there is no risk of injury or splintering.

This piece of furniture can be used not only for sitting, but also as an ottoman, placing it under your feet - this is especially often used by older people. Therefore, by making such a stool, you can please both kids and grandmothers, showing them your care.

Stool - box

It's common to run out of space for small items in the kitchen or workshop, and this stool model is perfect for clearing out some of the currently unused items on your counter. The boards that form the walls of the box strengthen the entire structure well and at the same time create a box where things that should always be easily accessible can be placed.

For example, women can use such a box to store needlework, as it is spacious enough and there is room in it for balls of yarn and knitting needles, as well as everything necessary for hand embroidery or sewing.

The male half will calmly hide in a box under the seat some items of his home “arsenal” that are most often needed in the household - a hammer and nails, pliers and other not too large tools.

To make such a product you will need a well-processed timber 50×50 mm, a board 200÷250 mm wide and 20÷25 mm thick, plywood for the bottom of the box and fasteners.

Folding stool

A folding stool is suitable for small apartments with small kitchens or for small country houses. It can be kept constantly unfolded, and, if necessary, put away in any closet or niche between the furniture and the wall, since when folded its thickness will be approximately 60÷80 mm, depending on the material chosen for manufacturing and design features.

The seat for this stool model can be made round or square, but each option has its own design for attaching the legs. The legs for such a stool are made of boards or thick, 20÷25 mm high-quality plywood. The base of the product consists of two frames, one of which must fit freely into the other. The frames are fastened together on one side and the other with special screws with bushings or a pin axis, which allows the structure to fold.

Step stool

Another option for a stool that can serve not only for sitting, but also act as a stepladder. This model is always useful both in a private house and in an apartment. For example, it is difficult to do without a stepladder during general cleaning, and without it it is not easy to get the right thing from the top shelf of a high cabinet.

When folded, this design will be no different from a regular stool, since the steps will be under the seat. Turning a stool into a convenient staircase is not difficult - you just need to pull the top of the temporarily inverted steps and carefully place them on the floor. The result is a reliable and stable stepladder, which can also be used as a comfortable footrest when sitting on a stool.

To make this model, you will need massive boards for the seat and steps, as well as thick plywood for the legs and a stringer for the steps.

Stool for the garden

If you plan to use a stool in a summer cottage according to the type, only in a portable version, then you need to prepare a wooden beam for it, since plywood will not work in this case. It will begin to delaminate under the influence of moisture, and the product will soon be hopelessly damaged.

Larch or oak is best suited for manufacturing. If you choose other wood, then it will need to be thoroughly impregnated with moisture-repellent compounds and then painted. Moreover, the process of pre-processing of lumber is carried out even before the structure is assembled.

Furniture used outdoors differs from that found indoors in that between the parts from which the seat and back are assembled (if a bench is made), gaps must be left so that rainwater does not linger on their surface, and parts were ventilated faster.

Stool drawing

Having decided on the model of the future product, a sketch drawing is drawn up, according to which all structural elements will be manufactured. When drawing up a drawing, all the necessary dimensions are immediately calculated and marked on the drawing. It is not at all necessary to make a diagram, observing all the canons and rules of drawing science - even just drawing it by hand will be enough. The main thing is that you can visually evaluate what will happen in the end, see all the parameters of the necessary materials and the principle of their connection.

In the presented diagram you can see the names of some of the parts that are included in the design of the stool - these are drawers, legs and “crackers”. Let’s talk about them in a little more detail, so that in further descriptions it will be clear what we are talking about. All these parts are necessary to hold the structure together and give it the required strength.

• Tsargi are bars or boards located under the seat of the stool and fasten the legs together with tenon joints, creating a strong support for the seat.
• The leg is an element designed to increase the stability and rigidity of the structure. It is located in the central or lower part of the legs (according to their height) and also fastens them together with tongue-and-groove joints.
• “Rusks” are bars, boards or metal corners installed diagonally on the inner corners of the structure under the seat and secured to the drawers and legs.

When drawing up a drawing, it is important to calculate not only the parameters of all visible parts of the structure, but also the size of the internal connecting elements, such as tenons cut at the edges of the drawers, and the grooves in which they will be installed, selected in the legs of the stool.

Tools for work

Without carpentry tools, it is simply impossible to make any piece of furniture from wood. Professional furniture makers have workshops fully equipped with special expensive machines. But just to try yourself as a carpenter, of course, you shouldn’t immediately purchase professional equipment, however, you will still have to prepare some tools.

The list of the most popular tools for working with wood is as follows:

• It’s great if the farm has a set of cutters that will help you process the edges of boards, timber and plywood, drill holes of different sizes, or carefully select grooves and grooves on any of the parts.

• To get rid of tedious operations, you will need a sanding machine with interchangeable wheels of varying degrees of grain to give the wood surface a smooth finish. This work can be done manually, but it will take much longer.

• Electric jigsaw. This tool, of course, can be replaced with a hand hacksaw, but after sawing the boards with it, the edges of the parts will not turn out neat, and you will have to work hard on them using a router. Again, cutting the material by hand will take much longer.

• will be necessary not only for screwing in fasteners, but also for drilling holes in parts. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a set of screwdriver bits and drills of different diameters. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use any drill and a set of hand screwdrivers.

• Clamps of various sizes. If you want to make a really high-quality and durable thing, then you must have clamps on hand, since when gluing boards into a solid panel or individual parts together, they must be strongly compressed and left in this position for a fairly long time, and besides these no other instrument can do this.
• You always need a hammer and chisels of different sizes. Sometimes you have to resort to using a plane - it can also be manual or electric.
• Measuring and marking equipment is being prepared - tape measure, construction square, wooden ruler 500÷1000 mm, simple pencil, surface planer, etc.

In addition to these tools, to carry out the work conveniently, you will need a fairly large and durable table - a workbench.

Making stools

folding stool

Traditional simple stool

The designs of even the simplest products may differ from each other in some elements, which, as a rule, are intended to give the stool additional strength.

Materials for production

A simple model of a stool looks like this and consists of parts indicated in the drawing by numbers:

1 - Legs.

2 - Stool legs.

3 - Tsargi.

4 - Seat.

5 - Connection elements - supports for installing the seat.

6 - Connecting grooves.

7 - Connecting grooves.

To make traditional stools with a height of 500 mm, a seat of 450x450 mm and straight legs, the following parts will be required:

• Four well-processed, smooth beams for the legs, cross-section 50x50 mm, height 485 mm. They can be straight or have narrowed cuts on the inside.
• For the seat you need to prepare two or four boards 12÷20 mm thick, 450×225 mm or 450×112.5 mm in size, or a plywood panel 450×450 mm, 12÷20 mm thick.
• To give the stool strength, in different types of structures 4 legs and 4 drawers can be used, made of timber with a section of 30×30 and a length of 441 mm, or only drawers - 4 boards, with a cross-section of 30×60 and a length of 441 mm.
• Additionally, connecting elements can be used in the form of small pieces of bars fixed on the inside, in the middle of the drawers, but you can do without them if bars of sufficient thickness are taken for the base under the seat.
• 30×30 mm timber for making “crackers” if they are intended to be installed.
• Wooden dowels (chops) for securing the seat to the finished base - 4 pieces, 30 mm long and 8÷10 mm in diameter.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Wood glue.

Assembling the stool

Illustration
	The first step, in order not to waste time, is to glue the boards for the seat if it will consist of several elements. To do this, well-fitted and polished end sides of the boards are coated with glue, connected to each other and tightened with clamps. This design should dry thoroughly, and while it is setting, you can start assembling the frame base of the stool.
	Next, the bars for the legs are prepared. They must have perfectly even cuts and be the same in height, which can vary, depending on the wishes of the master, and range from 450 to 500 mm.
	The next step is to mark the legs and determine the location of the connecting grooves for installing the tenons of the legs and drawers in them (or just the drawer, if the legs are not included in the design). The holes are selected using a router or chisel.
	Next, the edges of the drawers and legs are processed. Tenons are cut out on them with a width, height and depth that is 1÷1.5 mm smaller than the holes in the grooves in the legs intended for them. The tenons should fit fairly freely, but still fit tightly into the grooves.
	After this, the legs are assembled in pairs, fastened together by means of legs and drawers - their tenon parts are glued into the grooves of the legs. Each of the resulting frames is tightened with clamps. Then, after they have dried, the legs, tied in pairs, are also connected by drawers and legs into a single structure for the base of the stool and again compressed in clamps until they are completely glued. After the glue has dried, all connections are additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
	If it is intended to strengthen the stool with “crumbs”, then they are screwed to the sides and the leg of the stool. This element, installed flush with the top edge of the drawers, will create additional support for the seat.
	The next step is to mark and secure the stool seat. To do this, glue is applied to the back of the panel according to the markings, and then it is laid on the finished base of the stool, leveled and pressed. Next, in the corners, through the seat panel, one hole is drilled, the diameter of which should be 1-2 mm larger than that of the prepared dowels, and the depth should be 5 mm less than their height. Glue is poured into the hole, and then the dowels are driven in. Exposed glue is immediately wiped off. The top of the dowel is cut off using a router, and this area is sanded smooth. Additionally, the seat must be tightened with the frame using clamps until the glue dries completely.

The adhesive can be designed for different drying times, and this is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is possible to operate the products only after the specified period has completely expired.

Folding stool

The folding version of the stool is convenient because, thanks to its compactness, it can not only be stored in a small living space, but can also easily fit into the trunk of a car for transportation to the country.

children's stool

Materials for production

To make such a stool model, you will need slightly different materials than those used for the traditional product. Thus, some craftsmen prefer to purchase ready-made furniture panels made from natural wood. They are excellent for cutting design parts, since, having cut them out of this material, all that remains is to process their edges.

For the presented version of the stool, the master required a panel measuring 1120×400×24 mm, and in addition to it, additionally, the following materials:

• A stud with threads cut on both sides and end nuts, 250x8 mm in size, for through installation, or a stud with blunt ends for installation in blind grooves.
• Furniture butterfly hinges size (when opened) 350x400 mm - 4 pieces.
• Dowels or choppers 50×8 mm.
• Wood glue.
• Stain and clear varnish or tinted varnish.
• Self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long.

The dimensions of all structural parts are clearly visible in the presented drawing.

The folding stool consists of the following parts:

• The seat is round, with a diameter of 350 mm.
• The frame is 166 mm wide, consisting of two bars measuring 500 × 48 × 24 mm, and a cross member 122 mm long.
• Frame 122 mm wide from two bars 500x48x24 mm with cuts at the upper ends at an angle of 30 degrees, and crossbars 70 mm long.

Making a stool

Processing of parts and their assembly is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	It must be said that the seat can have a round or square shape with rounded corners, at the choice of the master. In this case, a round seat with a diameter of 350 mm was chosen. For the convenience of folding the stool, a curved hole should be made in the upper part of the seat, approximately 120 mm long and 20÷25 mm wide, so that it is convenient to grasp it with your hand. It can be cut using a router or drilling two holes with a diameter of 20÷25 mm at a distance of 120 mm from each other, and then connecting them by sawing out the wood between them using a jigsaw, making two cuts. In order for the hole to be neat and smooth, its edges must be processed immediately.
	Processing the edge of the seat and the inner edges of the “handle” hole is most often done using a semicircular cutter. But if this tool is not available, then they are put in order by first using a file with a large notch (rasp), and then sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually bringing the wood to smoothness.
	The next step is to process the prepared bars of the legs. In two of them, which will form the outer frame, you need to cut a groove 180 mm long and 8 mm wide, and 42 mm deep, along which the pin will go. Sometimes the grooves are made through - it is for this case that a stud with threads at the ends is selected, onto which a special cap nut is screwed. In the other two bars, according to the diagram, through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through which the pin will pass - these elements are intended for the manufacture of a narrow frame.
	The grooves are cut using a router, or holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended line, which are then combined into a common groove using a jigsaw. The work is carried out on a special machine, or the beam is rigidly fixed in a vice, and then holes are drilled in it using a drill or screwdriver.
	The bars that will form the inner, narrower frame of the stool must be carefully sawed off at the top at an angle of 30 degrees - this process can be done on a machine or using a miter box. The corner must be cut perfectly accurately, so this work cannot be done “by eye”. On the lower part of the legs, it is recommended to slightly round the corners and edges.
	The crossbars installed between the legs are mounted on dowels, which are glued into the drilled holes. This process can be done in different ways. Most often, the jumper is first installed with glue in the place intended for it, the legs are compressed in clamps, and left to dry completely. Then, through the outer side of the legs, through holes are drilled, which go deep into the end sides of the jumpers by at least 20÷25 mm. After this, dowels are carefully driven into the holes using glue. Each side of the jumpers will require two fasteners.
	On the back of the seat, according to the drawing, the places where the butterfly loops will be attached are marked. Then, the loops are laid on the marked place and outlined. Further. From this place, a landing “nest” is selected with a depth equal to the thickness of the loop, that is, when secured, the loop should be flush with the main wooden surface.
	Next, the loops are secured on the upper end sides of the legs. They are screwed on with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be in the same plane as the surface of the hinges. The next step is to attach the second side of the hinges to the sockets prepared for them on the back surface of the seat.
	To make the structure look neat, it is recommended to cover the pin with a tube carved from wood. You can replace the wooden version of the element masking the pin with a plastic tube, since turning this part out of wood is not so easy. The length of the tube should be 68 mm, the internal diameter 9 mm, the thickness of the tube walls can be from 2 to 10 mm.
	Next, the pin is inserted into the narrower frame through a prepared decorative tube, and its ends are inserted into the grooves of the outer, wider frame, along which they will move when folding and unfolding the stool.
	It must be said that a folding stool may have a slightly different design. It uses not one, but two studs, and instead of an internal frame, a solid board is fixed, and it serves as an equally reliable stool leg. The second, outer frame has a jumper at its very bottom, at such a level that when the structure is folded, the leg board fits neatly into it, creating one panel. The fastening of such legs to the seat is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first version of the folding stool.
	For comparison, you can see what one and the other model of the finished product looks like, and choose the one you like best for production. It is probably not difficult to understand that the second design option is simpler to implement.

Stool with wicker seat

A stool with a wicker surface can be made in a low or full, high version - it will be comfortable in any case. Its seat can be made of various materials - durable fabric, belts (including old car seat belts), cord and even plastic-braided cable. It is quite possible to come up with your own version.

Materials for production

The frame for such products is mounted, in principle, according to the same scheme, however, if a high stool is made for an adult, then the design should be more reliable, that is, it is advisable to strengthen it with durable drawers and legs. We must not forget that in a traditional stool the seat is also a reinforcing part of the structure, and its wicker version itself requires a particularly strong frame.

So, for the frame of a rectangular stool measuring 500×400 mm, you will need:

• Wooden blocks 50x50 mm for legs - their height can be selected individually.
• Bars for drawers and legs, section 50×25 mm.
• Metal or wooden corner elements - “crackers”.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Leather or synthetic belts, or durable rope in one or two colors.

Let us immediately note that the model shown in the example has a fairly large seat, which reduces the overall strength of the stool. Therefore, it may be more reasonable to make this structural element a little smaller, for example, 350x300 mm.

Find out by reading the options from “classic” to “transformer” in a special article on our portal.

Making a stool

The manufacture of such a stool is carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The structural elements of the stool are cut from the bars prepared for work. The legs can range from 300mm to 500mm in height and the model shown is 400mm high. In order for the legs to be stable, their end parts must be perfectly flat. Therefore, they should be marked using a construction square, and preferably sawed using a circular saw, which will give a perfect cut.
	The next step is to prepare the bars for the legs and drawers. In this case, 4 beams with a length of 450 mm and 4 beams with a length of 300 mm are cut. These elements should also have smooth edges for a snug fit to the legs.
	To make holes for fastening structural elements at a certain angle, a special tool (jig) is used that can guide the drill bit in the desired direction. This device is fixed on a block, and two holes are drilled through its guide holes on each side of the wooden part. After all the elements of the stool are ready, they should be thoroughly cleaned - this process is best carried out before assembling the structure, as it will be easier to see all the problem areas on the wood.
	This photo shows what such holes look like inside the beam.
	Additional fastening of the drawers and legs with the legs can be done using tongue-and-groove fasteners, and then, for maximum reliability, also with metal corners - “crackers”. These parts need to be selected according to the width of the wooden blocks.
	If the first fastening option is chosen, using self-tapping screws, then the assembly and fixation of all parts of the stool look as shown in the presented photo.
	At the end of the assembly, the stool frame should be strong and stable. When leaning on it, it should not swing.
	If it is planned to be painted or tinted, then this process is carried out before the seat is made.
	To equip the seat for the model shown in this example, 17 leather belts, 35 mm wide, were required. As already mentioned, seat belts used in cars can be used instead. The straps are screwed with two self-tapping screws measuring 10 mm at a distance of 9 mm from each other, onto the wide side of the beam extending inside the stool frame. The length of the belts must be measured in advance using a tape measure, “traversing” the entire path of the belt with its flexible tape. First you need to secure the belts, which will be located along the length of the rectangle. Having secured the belts on the inside, they go around the beam, pull it through the seat frame to the opposite king beam, go around it and also fasten it on the inside using the same screws.
	After the longitudinal belts are secured, the belts that will intertwine the already tensioned elements should be secured in the same way. They are screwed onto one of the long sides of the frame. Then, each of the belts is passed transversely through the longitudinal belts, in the form of weaving. After this, they are also wrapped on the inside of the opposite drawer, stretched and screwed. Having completed this operation, you can proceed to “testing” the product.
	Another option for designing a flexible stool seat is to stretch a strong rope or cord over the frame. In this case, paper rope was used. In addition to this, you need to prepare furniture nails with wide heads and a hammer, as well as clamping pliers and an awl.
	You can purchase rope of different shades for weaving and display one of the selected patterns on the surface of the seat, getting a stylish piece of furniture that will complement the interior design.
	The end of a rope of the same color is nailed to the back side of the drawer using two furniture nails.
	Next, the rope is carefully wrapped around two long opposite sides of the frame. If the frame is square, then the process of laying the rope can begin from any side of the structure.
	By braiding the opposite sides with a rope, its loops are pressed against each other as tightly as possible and pulled. Having covered approximately 100÷120 mm of the length of the seat with braiding, the rope is temporarily fixed with pliers so that it does not loosen. Work continues in this way until the entire surface of the seat is covered with a wound rope.
	Having finished covering the seat along two sides with one color, you can move on to weaving it across with twine of a different color. To do this, in this case, take a white rope and fasten it also on the back side of the drawer, running parallel to the already wound rope.
	Using a white cord, any pattern can be “highlighted” from a red background. This process is relatively simple and will be accessible even to a beginner.
	In this case, the white cords are pulled between the red rope so that the result is a herringbone pattern, that is, stripes are turned diagonally from the center of the seat.
	Having intertwined 6-8 rows and pulled them tight, the white rope is grabbed on the back side of the drawer with a furniture nail. If this is not done, the seat will quickly stretch and sag when using the stool. This procedure must be carried out every 6–8 rows, driving nails either on one side or on the opposite side.
	The result should be a durable seat, four threads thick, with an interesting design. If you want to choose a different pattern, woven from three or even four colors of rope, then on the Internet you can always find exactly what will suit a specific interior.

It should be noted that in the second option, where the seat is covered with rope, the frame is not very strong and is unlikely to support people with heavy weight, but such a stool is perfect for a children's room or as a footrest. If you want to make a full-fledged product for the seat, you need to choose a more massive beam for the frame and strengthen it especially reliably.

Find out by studying several available options in a special article on our portal.

In conclusion, it is worth saying that making a stool yourself, without having experience working with wood and special tools, is not as simple as it seems at first glance. However, if you have the desire and enough patience, then it’s quite possible to try yourself as a carpenter. The main thing is that you need to get ready for serious work and not do it “carelessly.”

Video: master class on making a simple wooden stool

There are several options for making this piece of furniture, including wood.

We will focus on the process of making a familiar wooden stool with our own hands. How to choose the right material, process it, correctly draw up a sample drawing - the article will offer detailed recommendations on all points.

All the stool drawings below are just examples. The process of their manufacture is not accompanied by precise calculations, as is required when designing load-bearing parts of any structure or those that are in one way or another subject to significant loads.

Therefore, below is only a recommended algorithm for making a stool yourself, that is, general instructions. Which model to make is up to you, dear reader, to decide. After all, it is clear that you can build anything with your own hands. The main thing is that the resulting sample fully corresponds to its purpose, which, again, is determined by the master.

Choosing a stool design

The given drawings and drawings clearly show which stool options are most often assembled for domestic use.

A more original option is a stool and a bedside table at the same time.

There is only one explanation - the more complex the configuration, the more time it will take to make the stool. But this is not the main thing. For various shaped elements, you will have to look for the appropriate tool, or even resort to the services of a person (or workshop) who has a machine, cutters, and the like for personal use.

A simple example: to make curly cuts, exactly along the radii, with just a hand jigsaw you can only make it out of plywood. And it is not a fact that the result will be satisfactory. If the legs are planned to be made from a solid board, then if you have only the simplest household tools, it is better not to try - this requires many years of experience in processing wooden blanks.

Selection of materials

The fact that you will have to work with wood is understandable. But what kind of products can you use?

Solid wood in the form of boards and beams is suitable for the manufacture of any parts of the stool: seat (1), fastening bars (2), crossbars (3), legs, drawers and the legs themselves (4). A more simplified version is with a cover made of multilayer plywood. By the way, this solution has the advantage that it is easier to laminate the furniture panel (another name for this structural part) and, if necessary, replace it.

Type of plywood

It must be moisture-repellent. Water will definitely get on the stool during its use. FBS products are the best in all respects, but their cost is such that not everyone will want to purchase such plywood. In everyday life, as a rule, products of the FSF and FK brands are used. To save money, you can buy cheaper sheets of these series, category Ш1.

This means that only one side of the sample was subjected to grinding. The condition of the second (wrong, back) stool seat does not matter. There is also a multilayer one with ready-made lamination on sale, but it will naturally cost more.

Wood species and material type

Let's start with plywood. If the stool will be located indoors, then the FC brand is better suited. It is less moisture resistant, but the glue used to hold the veneer together is not so toxic. But for this reason, FSF is recommended mainly for external use. In addition, its moisture resistance is higher. So if the stool will always be in the utility room, garden or somewhere else outside the building, this is the best option.

But you can write quite a lot about the choice of wood. Without going into the specifics of the different species, the author recommends using larch for the stool. Firstly, it is easy to process it with your own hands. Secondly, the cost of the material is quite reasonable. Thirdly, unlike many other species of coniferous trees in this price range, larch becomes even stronger when wet. Therefore, if you handle the stool carefully, it will last for decades. Fourthly, you will not need to constantly treat it with preparations against decay and biological pests. Other inexpensive options are acacia and ash.

Having chosen a specific type of wood, you should study all the features of working with it. But there are nuances, and it is this approach that guarantees that problems will not arise later. For example, does everyone know that acacia can be easily processed only after it is soaked? Dry wood from this wood is not much worse than stone in terms of hardness.

Wood moisture level

Basically, all wood must be properly dried. In construction it is prohibited to use these materials with an indicator of more than 20%. As for the stool, you don’t need to be an expert to understand that if you assemble it with your own hands from raw materials, after a while everything will have to be redone. The reason is trivial - the entire structure will “lead” after the wood shrinks.

Technology selection

There is often advice not to use tongue-and-groove joints. The main argument is complicated. But if you think about it, is this so?

In order to make grooves in the legs, the author used an electric drill with a small cutter. I first drilled holes along the marked lines, which I then combined, choosing “partitions” between them. No matter what anyone claims, this type of connection is the most reliable.

It is much easier to assemble all the elements with your own hands using self-tapping screws. The heads can be made secret and disguised. But such a design will soon begin to creak - it’s been checked. It turns out that the common element connecting the 2 workpieces is just a thin and short metal “pin” - the leg of the fastener.

Hardware can only be used as an additional (to glue-on) method of fixing parts. Elements such as corners, staples, and plates are also used for reinforcement. The master himself will understand what is more convenient for one or another version of the stool. And then, this is done mainly for bulky structures. If the product is small, then one glue is enough. Although the reader may have a different opinion, the author does not insist.

Manufacturing of components

The main parts of the stool are shown in the pictures (see above). If the drawing is ready, everything else is a matter of technique.

Assembly of the structure

This is, so to speak, a preliminary installation, a kind of “browsing” of the stool. At this stage, the accuracy of all dimensions, the correct fit of parts is checked, defects are identified (if any), and so on. Here you can still redo something, improve it without unnecessary costs and loss of time.

Processing of structural elements

After checking the readiness of the entire structure for assembly, the wood is “finished” - impregnated with special compounds, dried, and so on.

Assembling the stool

• It is advisable to start work from the seat. All crossbars, support bars and the like are attached to it - depending on the model.
• Installation of legs. They can be attached directly to the lid or assembled into a separate frame, with the installation of crossbars.
• Final assembly of the entire structure.

Grinding

After the stool is mounted, it needs to be given a “marketable” appearance. How and with what to treat the surfaces is determined by the master. This is done with your own hands mainly with sandpaper or using a special attachment that is inserted into the chuck of an electric drill.

Exterior design

Here the main advisor is your own imagination. Varnish, stain, paint – there are plenty of options.

The author deliberately did not indicate what specific cross-section and length the block would be needed, did not recommend a certain thickness of plywood sheets or boards, and so on, so as not to limit the reader in any way. If the meaning of the work - where to start and how to finish - is clear, everything else is unimportant. After all, when something is done with your own hands, it is a priori implied - AS I WANT, and not someone else.

Good luck with your home building!