Do-it-yourself carpentry clamps. How to make clamps from wood, plywood, metal. Which screw and flywheel to use

Novice woodworking enthusiasts will find our instructions with a sequentially described process for the manufacture of carpentry clamps of several varieties will be useful. In it, we will tell you what materials to use for this and how to make a device that is exactly suitable for your own needs.

Materials for body, stop and jaws

In carpentry, clamps are used to securely and carefully hold several parts together while they are mechanically connected or while the glue dries. The pressing force should not be colossal, it is much more important not to damage the surface of the parts to be joined. At the same time, the clamp must maintain high strength and be durable.

For the manufacture of clamp parts that are in direct contact with the workpiece, it is better to use hardwood. Ideally, these are bars and planks made of larch, beech, hornbeam or birch. Such a tree has a sufficiently high strength and at the same time is elastic, restoring its shape well. The hardness of such wood is usually higher than that of the processed parts, which can be compensated by heels made of leather, light rubber, felt or softer wood.

Both solid wood and rolled metal can be used as a frame for the clamp. Corners or profile pipes work well, but they need to be carefully cleaned, primed and painted so that there are no traces of rust on the finished product. To prevent accidental mechanical damage or punching of the parts to be joined, it is recommended to stick wooden planks over the metal elements of the clamp or pull on a loose silicone hose.

Which screw and flywheel to use

Despite not very high clamping force, conventional metric threaded studs will not be very suitable for use as a clamp screw, except for a very small one. A small thread pitch will make it tedious to choose a free stroke, among other things, a triangular profile is “eaten up” much faster.

It would be much more correct to purchase studs with a trapezoidal or rectangular thread, otherwise called a jack thread. The optimal step is about 2-2.5 turns per centimeter, so a good smoothness of adjustment and an optimal tightening force for wooden parts are achieved.

You can get studs, nuts and fittings of the right type either by contacting a turner directly or in a hardware store, including on the Internet. There is, however, one BUT: most factory products have a full thread, while a slightly different screw configuration is optimal for a clamp. Ideally, if there are smooth pillars at the ends of the stud: about 20 mm long for the bearing fit (slightly thicker than the thread) and about 30-40 mm for the handle (slightly thinner or the same diameter).

The handle or flywheel can be made either from a block of wood, or by drilling a hole in the side of the stud and inserting a steel bar into it as a toggle lever, like on a vice.

Straight screw clamp

For the manufacture of the simplest clamp, you will need a frame in the form of a U-shaped bracket. It can be made in two ways. The first is to connect three bars at right angles on a tongue-and-groove joint, reinforcing it with glue and a pair of dowels. This option requires a fairly high qualification of the carpenter: hemming and fitting must be done with high accuracy, because the load in these nodes is very significant.

The second option is somewhat simpler, but more expensive in terms of material consumption. You can cut the bracket out of thick birch plywood by gluing 3-4 blanks 12-16 mm thick with Titebond wood glue.

When choosing the shape of the parts, keep in mind that the most reliable design will be with external slopes for greater rigidity. The stop of the bracket and its opposite part, in which the clamping screw will be fixed, must be trapezoidal. In this case, the inclined sides should diverge outward at an angle of about 30º more than a straight one. Thickening in the middle of the frame is also highly desirable.

To fix the screw, it is recommended to use nuts or nuts of the appropriate diameter, which are fixed in one of the "horns" of the clamp frame from the inside and are additionally strengthened with epoxy resin. If the bracket was assembled from bars, then you need to insert a screw into one of them before final assembly. If the frame structure is multi-layered, then the bushings can be replaced with nuts, which are glued into the cut of the central plywood layer. Here it is important to monitor the direction of the axis of the screw and at the same time prevent glue from getting into the threaded connection - lubricate it well with grease.

At the point where the clamping heel is attached to the screw, some kind of swivel is necessary so that the parts do not move when clamped. It is best to press a bearing, selected according to the diameter of the inner race, onto the whole edge of the screw stud. For a secure stop, clamp the pin into the drill chuck, and then cut a groove under the retaining ring with a triangular file and a hacksaw. Next, in the bar serving as a support heel, you need to make a cylindrical groove with a core drill and press the bearing with the pin into it, strengthening the fit with varnish or epoxy.

Adjustable universal clamp

Clamps with a variable opening width are more versatile in application, they are most often used when rallying furniture panels. To make such a clamp, you will need a calibrated rail made of dry hardwood, ideally beech or ash. A constant profile size is required along the entire length and the complete absence of any defects. The clamping force that the clamp can withstand directly depends on the thickness and width of the rail.

So, manufacturing should begin with fixing a perpendicular stop at one end of the longitudinal rail. It is better to make it from two bars that fold and clamp the rail in two symmetrical grooves, or fill it in the manner of a hammer. Thus, the workpiece for a clamp with a fixed stop acquires a T-shape, and the length of the stop on the working side should be no more than 3 times longer than the projection on the reverse side. The connection of the stop with the rail can be strengthened with furniture ties, it is also possible to connect on 2-3 dowels and PVA glue.

The reverse part of the stop is designed to secure the bowstring. A straight steel bar with a diameter of 10-12 mm is ideal for it. At the end of the bar, thread should be cut and spread between the end stops with nuts from the inside. Holes for the bowstring should be drilled as close as possible to the back edge of the stop. In this case, the indentation from the edge should be sufficient so that the wood does not split. After installing the bowstring, it is necessary to mark a number of notches on the end of the bar facing the clamped part, in increments of 15-20 mm, make cuts up to 2 mm deep with a hacksaw using this marking, and cut the notches with a knife.

Next, you should make a movable clamp block. A through eyelet of rectangular section is made in it, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the thickness and width of the longitudinal bar. Ideally, gouge a groove 2-3 mm smaller, and then bring it to the desired shape with a square rasp. The bar should sit snugly in the last, but at the same time allow relatively free movement along the clamp and its slope for locking on the notches. Under the bowstring, you also need to make a through hole so that the bar is located strictly perpendicular to the rail, and the block slides freely along it with a slight backlash.

On the reverse side of the hard stop, you need to fill another block, which will fasten the bar with the bowstring parallel to each other. To do this, you can use a small piece of the bar, in which a groove for the bar is made with a chisel and an incomplete hole for the bowstring is drilled. Dowels or bolts are used to fix the pads. As for the clamping screw and the heel, they are installed by analogy with a conventional clamp. It is enough to drill a through hole in the movable block not too close to the edge and paste a futorka or nut into it from the inside. So when the part is clamped, the nut of the screw mechanism will rest against the wood and sit even tighter.

Angle clamp

The most difficult to manufacture can be called a clamp, which ensures the fixation of two parts at a right angle. At the same time, it is the most useful and sought-after tool in the carpenter's workshop.

The basis for the corner clamp will be a piece of thick plywood. It is better to take a square plank of about 300x300 mm with a thickness of at least 14 mm. In the corner of the base, you need to fix two bars of hardwood, which for convenience we will call reference. These pads must converge at a right angle facing the center of the plywood board, the thickness of the bars is at least 25x25 mm. Their fastening should be as rigid as possible: it is recommended to first glue the bars, ensuring their perpendicularity with the help of a bench square, and then strengthen the connection with ties or bolts.

From the center of each block, you need to draw a perpendicular line, coaxial with which the screw studs will be located. It is necessary to retreat from the bars by a distance of 20-30 mm more than the maximum thickness of the parts to be tightened. After that, two more bars are rigidly attached to the base parallel to the previous ones. It is advisable to glue the nuts immediately, and then proceed with the stop bars in the same way as with the reference ones: first position them on the adhesive joint, and then strengthen them with ties. For greater convenience, you can immediately screw the screw studs into the nuts.

After fixing the thrust bars, it remains only to press on the bearings fixed in the movable blocks. The cross section, dimensions and material of the latter should be similar to the reference bars. Finally, you need to fill the handles or insert the toggle levers and cut off the excess base of the clamp, removing the protruding corners for free rotation by the screw handles

Individual clamps for specific operations

In any carpentry workshop, homemade clamps show themselves to be more adapted to local working conditions than purchased in a store. You can use a wide range of variations of the three designs described above.

For example, on one rail, you can fix not one, but two adjustable pads for positioning parts at a great distance. Such a tool will be very useful, for example, when assembling door blocks.

Instead of a handle, you can weld a regular hexagonal bolt cap onto the stud. This is true if, when assembling parts, several clamps need to be often clamped, released and rearranged. At the same time, it will be convenient to rotate the clamping screw using a ratchet socket head or even a screwdriver.

To assemble products of complex shape, you can make clamp stops and movable blocks of a more complex configuration, which are well suited for working with irregularly shaped parts.

Once I needed to clamp a part, when sawing off a part from it, how to do it without a vice was not very clear, in the end I decided that I needed to make some kind of adaptation, namely a clamp, the details, as usual, were made of good old parquet. Such a homemade product will help us not only replenish the collection of tools, but also save some money.

But before proceeding to reading, I suggest watching a video where I showed in detail the entire manufacturing process.

In order to make a homemade wooden clamp, you will need:
* Parquet, you can use any sufficiently strong boards
* Threaded stud M6
* Two nuts M6 and washers to them
* Electric drill
* Two 8mm hex head screws
* Sandpaper
* File
* Chisel
* Hacksaw

That's all you need to assemble a homemade product.

Step one.
First you need to decide on the material, after all, the loads on this homemade product will be very large, then the material should be with a margin of safety. I chose oak parquet, because it has enough strength for such purposes, and in stock it was the first thing that came to hand. I decided to make a small clamp, as I rarely deal with large details. Next, I sawed off a lath about 2 cm wide from this parquet, I decided that this would be enough, given that the length does not exceed 25 cm.

If your clamp length is more than 25 cm, then I strongly recommend using a board with a wider width or choosing a material stronger than wood. You should also pay attention to the fact that it is best to cut with small-tooth files, I usually saw with a hacksaw in such cases, sawing after it almost does not require grinding.

We lightly grind the part by hand, there is no point in polishing the part, since this is a future working tool.

Step two.
After the main part is ready, we proceed to the lower fixed sponge. I sawed it out with the same hacksaw for metal.

Then I drilled four holes along the edges with an electric drill with a 3 mm drill, after which I selected the material with a chisel and trimmed the hole with a file. As a result, I got a rectangular hole into which the previous part is tightly inserted.

For reliability, it should be glued to PVA.

Step three.
Well, the homemade product is almost ready, it remains to make a movable sponge. It's a little more difficult to do it, by the way. The part consists of the same piece of parquet, which I also drilled with a drill and selected a rectangle inside to put on the base.

The difference between the design of the movable jaw and the fixed one is that it has an eccentric that allows you to clamp the necessary part, the dimensions of which can vary within certain intervals. In the upper sponge we make a rectangular hole for a movable eccentric, I also sawed it out of the parquet, the width is 15 mm.

The center offset should not be strong, but also not be very small, otherwise the part will not hold tightly, which is not good in the case of a clamp.

Step four.
A 4 mm hole must be drilled in the movable jaw and eccentric with a drill.

After that, we install the eccentric using an M4 threaded stud, after placing one washer per side. I do not recommend tightening the nuts too much, as this can damage the sponge itself.

The principle of operation of such a clamp is that when the eccentric is rotated, its displacement rests against the part, which entails a distortion of the movable jaw, as a result of which it jams, thereby holding the clamped part.

Step five.
Not everything is with the upper sponge, I screwed a small piece of parquet to it, which will serve as an additional stop when clamping the part. I sawed off a small piece from the same oak parquet, then drilled two holes along the edges. Next, I screwed it on two self-tapping screws with a hat for a hex wrench.

Hi all brains! In today's project we will make do it yourself wooden clamp.

All elements used are of a standard size and can be enlarged to make a larger clamp. So you get a set of several clamps!

You may not have any special equipment, like I do - this should not scare you! Almost any problem can be solved in one way or another, any craft can be improved. I made 3 prototypes before I got the perfect clamp for me. Don't be afraid to experiment and make mistakes!

Step 2: Materials Used

In this project, a set of four clamps is made, but the amount of materials is indicated for one clamp. Just multiply by the number of clamps you need and get the amount of materials you need.

- Hardwood 1.9 cm thick and at least 2.5 cm wide (I used pecan wood)
- 1/2 inch steel bar (12mm)
- 1/4 inch stud 20 threads per inch
- 1/2 inch nuts (12mm) x2 pcs.
- 3/32" spring pins (2.38mm) 3/4" long (19mm) x2 pcs.

You will also need a 1/4" 20 TPI tap for barrel nuts, and a 13/64" (5mm) tap drill.

Step 3: Splitting the Wood

The best way I have found to make something is to try to make all the required parts in one operation. Therefore, to begin with, cut the material needed for sponges and pens. The handles are made from a 3/4" x 3/4" (19x19mm) square blank and the jaws will be 1" x 3/4" (25x19mm).

Step 4: Cut out the handles

Set your machine to a 33 degree angle to cut the handle blank to the desired shape. You can use a 1/2" nut as a spacer to get the required thickness.

For this task, I used my band saw. Just go over one side, then flip from one side to the other and make a second cut. This will provide a hexagonal shape for the one side you are cutting. Then cut the second side in the same way.

When finished, turn your machine back 90 degrees and cut the handle stock 2 1/2 inches (64mm) long.

Step 5: Clamp Jaw Blanks

Now cut off a corner on the lips. Cut as you like. I cut my corner piece a little long, and then used it to cut a 15 degree corner piece on one side for the other blanks.

For those of you who like to use a carpenter's corner for cutting, consider that the slope of the line (steepness) is 2 inches (50mm) by 2 3/4 inches (70mm). Angle is mounted 1/2" (12mm) apart or centered in a 1" (25.4mm) blank. I recommend cutting the corner first, then cutting the jaws to 4 inches (102mm). So less likely to make a mistake.

When finished, mark A and B on the jaw halves.

Step 6: Drilling Jaw A

Starting with sponge A. Drill two 1/2" (12mm) holes through one side and two 1/4" (6mm) holes through the top.

The first 1/2" (12mm) diameter hole is located 3/4" (19mm) from the back and is centered in the sponge blank. The second hole is located 1 3/4" (44mm) from the back of jaw A. Two 1/4" (6mm) diameter holes are located in the center of the top of the jaw 3/8" (9.5mm) from each side and intersect with 1/2 inch (12mm) hole centers.

Step 7: Sponge B

Jaw B is slightly different from Jaw A. It does not have 1/2" (12mm) drilled holes, and the 1/4" (6mm) hole in the back is only 1/2" (12mm) deep.

Place jaw B in the same way as previously placed jaw A, drill 1/4" (6mm) diameter holes 3/4" (19mm) and 1 3/4" (44mm) from the back. Be careful not to drill all the way through the back hole like I did. That's why I marked the sponges with the letters A and B.

Step 8: Threaded Studs

Take a good hacksaw and cut the 1/4 inch (6mm) threaded stud into blanks of the desired length. You will need a 4 1/2" (114mm) blank and a 5" (127mm) blank for each clamp you make. Set them aside for now, we'll get back to them in the pen making step.

Step 9: Cylindrical Nuts

Cylindrical nuts are drilled steel round blanks with 90 degree threads inside them.

I made mine by cutting a 1/2" (12mm) piece of stock into 3/4" (19mm) pieces, then drilled holes and tapped with a 1/4" tap, 20 turns.

Step 10: Chamfering the Clamp Handles

All handles will be chamfered at one end. This makes them look more attractive, removes sharp edges, and makes them easier to hold in your hand.

If you have strong hands, then use a sharp cutter to create chamfers. Simply clamp the handles as shown in the photo and cut off the edges by 1/8 inch (3mm).

Step 11: Continue Finishing the Handles

In order for the knobs to fit a 1/2" nut, they must be cut to a diameter slightly larger than the hole in the nut so that the threads of the nut will securely engage the wood surface and create a secure connection. This is where a wood lathe would come in handy, but in the absence of one, you will have to do it manually.

Press the stop block against the saw guard and use the 1/2" nut to set the depth of the cut and maintain the correct distance from the guard. Next, take a wooden blank and make the necessary cuts.

You should end up with a drawing that looks a little like the Jewish Star of David. After that, cut off the excess protrusions.

Step 12: Handles and Removing Corners

The 1/2 inch nuts won't fit on the handles until you have the corners turned on them. At this stage, practice on some unnecessary workpiece, and only after that use a real pen.

Clamp the handles and grind until you get the perfect round shape.
Next, screw the nut onto the tip of the handle. Do it carefully.

Step 13: Finishing the Handles

Screw on two 1/4 inch nuts (6mm) and tighten them on the threaded stud so that it is securely fixed in the jig. Next, round off the ends with a metal file so that the handle moves smoothly. Make sure there is at least one inch of material protruding from the jig, then screw in the wood handle as far as it will go. Use a wrench to tighten to the base and align with the handle. Do not overtighten, lower the nut down until it is all the way down and then align with the handle.

Finally, you need to insert the pin into the handle. Drill a 3/32" (2.38mm) diameter hole in the center of the nut, threaded studs and hammer in the pin.

Step 14: Finishing the Job

Well, that's almost all. You have made all the necessary preparations. Now they need to be connected all together to get the finished product. We only need to sand the surfaces to remove sharp edges, edges and apply a finish coat. This is the nicest easy step to follow.

Put on rubber gloves and rub some drying oil into the surface, then complete this process by rubbing the wooden surface with wax, and enjoy the result!

I hope you enjoyed this project. You can also upgrade the manufactured clamp to clamp objects of various sizes.

Simple and functional handmade f-clamps will become indispensable helpers in your workshop and will allow you to save a lot of money on expensive clamps, which, as you know, do not exist in many. The cam-type quick clamp is optimal for situations where high clamping forces are not required: gluing narrow or small parts, edges, fixing workpieces, etc.

The cam clamp works on the principle of the classic f-shaped clamp. It consists of a guide rail and two jaws: movable and fixed. By fixing the workpiece in the jaws and turning the cam 90°, the tool will provide a strong and secure clamping. It will not be difficult to make a homemade clamp with your own hands at home, with a minimum of tools and consumables.

The proposed clamp drawing and detailing are a baseline. The design of the product is such that you can not go in cycles in materials and dimensions, changing them to suit your needs. The tire can be made from both metal and wood. You can also vary the length and width of the jaws to increase the grip depth of the clamp. Rivets or small bolts may be used instead of metal pins. The movable and fixed jaws are a mirror image of each other, so it is convenient to produce these parts in series, several pieces at once.

Having made a set of clamps and plain wooden stops shown in the photo with your own hands, you will get an effective corner clamp, which will become an indispensable tool for gluing ideal frames.

Beginning craftsmen, perhaps at the first stage of their work, manage with only two tools: a hammer and a hacksaw. But with the acquisition of experience, their number is no longer enough. You always need to glue two parts and secure something in a vise or clamps. The do-it-yourself clamp is made very easily and simply.

Using the views tool and its structure

There is no such clips that would be one hundred percent suitable for our needs when doing housework. Clamps come in different shapes, models and sizes. As a rule, there are not enough of them. Below is a short list of tools for solving the tasks of wood and metal processing:

• wooden;
• metal;
• F-shaped;
• C-shaped;
• corner;
• cam;
• G-shaped;
• wire clamps;
• tape clips.

Making a clamp yourself is quite simple. Of course, when carrying out work, this is not the tool in which there is a constant need. But it never hurts to have it handy.

Wooden clamp for screed

One of the most accessible and inexpensive examples for self-production. It is easy to make and easy to use. For its production, maple or pine planks are taken. Their minimum width can be 5 cm, the thickness is not less than 0.6 cm. A metal rod with four nuts is used as a retainer. To make a handle, you need any hardwood that does not have visible external defects. The moving part is completely dry and easy to pass over the metal rod.

At the ends of the rod are two nuts that are tightened to prevent divergence. You can use a simple lock, as well as the original nut with a stationary lock. Additionally, two more nuts with washers are screwed on both sides. These nuts lock each other. Be sure to leave an opening for a rotating hairpin.

Wooden and steel clamp

It also has the shape of the letter F. Its key difference is the use of metal parts. The durability and strength of the metal plays an important role in this case. The most difficult part is the plate itself, into which the bar will be inserted in the future. Several holes need to be drilled. At the end, you can clean the metal with a grinder. The plate must easily walk on this plate. At the opposite end of the plate, a clearance is drilled, which must correspond to the thread of the screw stud.

The end should be made at an angle to fully match the cutouts. This is done easily by grinding on the machine. How to make the rest of the parts was discussed above.

Do-it-yourself F-shaped clamp

Made from both wood and metal. It is shaped like a caliper. It is made from durable wood or plywood sheets. On the rail, you need to cut out recesses to fix the movable means itself. A worm-drive bar movement system is usually used. The parts are fastened with a holder, which is fixed with a few turns of the nut. When the holder is released, the part is easily removed from the retainer.

The principle of operation of the clamp

When a specialist works with wooden and metal blanks and he needs to fix the product for its precise processing. This can be done using clamps.
Ancient models allowed fixing it with one hand, modern models free both hands of the master. They are not only quick-clamping, but at the same time make it possible to use both hands. The following types of clamps are known:

1. Mounting.
2. Manual.
3. Corner.
4. Screw.
5. Lever.

Lever clamps are based not only on the worm-screw principle of operation, but also on the lever mechanism. They are also called clamps. They make it possible to accurately and instantly fix the part. The use of huge force is not required here, all the main work is done by levers. Such clamps have a very simple design, so they can be made by hand at home. This principle of operation allows not only to fix the part, but also to calculate the squeezing force. This is important, for example, when gluing.
Other types of clamps differ only in the method of fastening parts.

We make a joiner's clamp

When working with wood, you often have to fix it, so without a joiner's clamp, you simply can't go anywhere. You will definitely need it when you just need to fix the boards, glue wood blanks or sheets of trees together.
Undoubtedly, such models are commercially available. But they are made of softer alloys, so manufacturers reduce the cost of goods. And they don't always fit. A do-it-yourself clamp is the best option.
There are a huge number of clamp modifications on the market. Some of them can be universal, and some are completely disposable and they are made for one technical operation. You just need to understand the very principle of work, then making any version with your own hands will not be difficult. There are no manufacturing standards.

The easiest option from a hacksaw for metal. She gathers quickly. But its application is limited. Although this functionality is enough to work with small objects.

Bolts act as fasteners, at one end of which there is a nut, at the other end there can be a removable handle or an open-end wrench.

Since the frame can be adjusted in length, this will allow you to work with workpieces of different widths. It is mainly used for gluing parts. It will not work to fix it to the table, as the design does not allow. But if there are no other suitable tools, then this option will come in handy as always.

Manufacturing of locksmith clamp

Locksmith work in an unequipped room always has one constant problem that locksmiths have to face, this is the fastening of workpieces. Movement on the workpiece table cannot be excluded if the table is not equipped with fasteners. One of these affordable and very simple tools is a do-it-yourself locksmith clamp.

In order to make a clamp with your own hands, you must have minimal skills in locksmith work. For its manufacture, wood, studs, rolled metal, pipes, wooden beams are used. Also, the presence of a welding machine will not interfere. The most important thing when carrying out any work is to follow the instructions and observe safety precautions.

Consider the option of making a clamp made of wood. You can choose the size yourself, which is most suitable for the type of work. The end result should be a screw-type clamp.

1. Transfer templates of wooden blanks to a sheet of cardboard. The sizes are selected independently.
2. Next, transfer the blank templates to a wooden board. For these purposes, a variety of solid wood is perfect.
3. A hacksaw or jigsaw cuts out the part. The contour of the part is processed with a file and sanding paper.
4. In the center of the workpiece, mark the place for the hole. The axis of the bolt will pass through it. The hole in the upper part of the fixing jaw is widened with a round file 1.5 or 2.5 times wider than the size of the bolt itself.
5. A hole for the nut will be drilled in the handle. The diameter must match the wrench number. With a rasp or file, we give the hole the shape of a hexagon. We put the nut into the hole on the epoxy resin and, as an option, any other solid adhesive composition.
6. The clamp is assembled, the bolt is attached with glue at the bottom of the fixing jaw. Loops are attached at the back to open the fixing jaws. Put the upper jaw on the bolt and tighten with a handle.

In fact, there are a large number of examples for the production of clips at home. For these purposes, for example, it is possible to remake metalworking hacksaws.

Making a clothespin

One of the simplest and most popular clamps is the clothespin clamp. Making a clamp with your own hands is very simple. The principle of operation of such a clip is similar to the principle of a clothespin. Only the sizes here will be larger.

First you need to cut blanks from plywood. In total, you need to prepare 10 such details. Five out of ten should have a rounded bulge in the center. The length of each holder jaw is 15 cm.

It should be noted that if you need a larger model, then you need to use a stronger and thicker plywood.

Alternately, we begin to glue the profiles of the blanks. First there should be a profile with a bulge. There should be two such clips. We connect them together in such a way that the ridges go into the grooves.

If everything is done correctly, then such a clip will be movable and work like a clothespin. We wind the rubber band. Actually everything, the clip with your own hands is ready.

How to choose a clamp when buying

The clamp is a fairly simple device and problems with the choice should not arise. The main thing before buying is to check its serviceability so that the case does not have cracks. The screw part should be easy to twist and unscrew. See how tightly the lips fit. They must be even. If there are rubber gaskets in the kit, then try them out. They are needed in order not to leave marks on soft materials during fastening. The device must also be lightweight and durable.