Caring for gloxinia flowers at home, replanting, propagation. Learning to care for gloxinia at home Gloxinia care

PVC panels 14.10.2023

PVC panels

12/16/2018 Irina Malinina

Delicate leaves and large flowers resembling bells are why flower growers love gloxinia. However, the plant does not always reciprocate, blooms little and sparsely, and sometimes simply dies. That is why caring for gloxinia must take into account a number of conditions and characteristics of the beautiful southern guest.

Our tips will help you design a living environment that is as close to natural conditions as possible. You can also learn how to properly care for this beauty so that it delights you with its lush, velvety foliage and clusters of bright inflorescences, and also outshines your other neighbors on the windowsill.

Caring for Sinningia after purchase

It is necessary to make a transplant immediately. The transport substrate is not suitable for permanent cultivation of the plant. Instead, you need more nutritious soil. Otherwise, the root system may rot.

Gloxinia in a pot

When transplanting, you should inspect the tuber. If damage is found, repair it. Cover the wound with ash or cover it with brilliant green.

Caring for gloxinia in autumn-winter

After flowering ends, another question arises - how to care for gloxinia during the dormant period. This stage begins in September and continues until the end of winter. As soon as the leaves turn yellow, watering is reduced, and after the stems and foliage dry out, stop. All that remains is to send the tubers for the winter. And here one of two options is possible - in a container and with digging.

Table 1. Wintering options for the plant.

Wintering method	Algorithm of actions
In a pot	Remove the above-ground parts of the flower; pour sand into the container (so that there are no voids left); cover the pot with a lid; place in a dark corner where the temperature does not exceed 12 °C; regularly check the “sleep” of the plant, making sure that the tuber does not sprout; Water no more than once a month.
With digging	After flowering and cutting the stems, dig the nodule out of the soil; remove remaining soil, dried roots, adhesion, damaged areas, dry a little; place in a plastic bag in which vermiculite and soil are mixed in equal proportions; close the bag and put it in the refrigerator, in the department for vegetable products; take it out at the end of winter and put it in the light so that the tuber awakens.

Growing conditions

Proper care creates comfortable conditions for growing beautiful gloxinia. It is necessary to provide the necessary: temperature, air humidity, location, lighting.

Temperature

Tuber rooting - at a temperature of 23-24 degrees. When the first leaves appear, the temperature is reduced to +21. When growth and flowering increase, the optimal temperature is +20. Otherwise, the potted crop may die.

Air humidity

Optimal: 65-80%. If there is not enough moisture, the leaf blades will droop. To humidify the air, you can place a vessel with water nearby, spray it around the flower (without splashing onto the leaf plates), or place the pot in a tray with a humidifier.

Lighting

This is a light-loving plant, but does not tolerate direct ultraviolet rays. If there is enough light, the leaves are dark green and located horizontally to the stem. If there is a deficiency, they are pulled upward.

Gloxinia - a light-loving plant

Choosing a location

The location is chosen depending on the season. In spring, Sinningia grows and blooms remarkably on southern windowsills. In summer - on east and west windows. If the windows are located on the north side, growth slows down and there may be no buds at all. Illumination with special lamps is required.

What it looks like in the interior

Sinningia with the splendor of flowers can create coziness in the house, enliven and enrich any interior.

It purifies the air at home and removes harmful impurities. Completely harmless. Can be placed in a children's room.

Possible difficulties and problems

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to immediately “make friends” with a capricious southern beauty. Sometimes some difficulties arise, and at various stages of cultivation. It is necessary to prepare for possible problems and know how to solve them.

Table 2. Possible problems and solutions.

Problem	Possible reason	Solutions
Tuber does not wake up after hibernation	Improper storage, as a result of which the tuber dies.	Remove the tuber from the soil or bag and inspect. If it wrinkles or turns dark brown, it is better to throw it away. The living rhizome is pinkish in color.
Pulling out shoots	Too high temperature and lack of light.	Spray the air next to the pot more often, place the container on a tray with moistened expanded clay. Place the flower in a more illuminated place.
Slow growth	Cool indoor climate or poor soil quality.	Replant the bush in new soil and increase the temperature in the room.
Flowers don't bloom	Lack of nutrients or drafts in the room.	Feed the plant regularly, and also remove the pot to a place protected from drafts.
Lack of flowers	Excess nitrogen compounds in the soil, lack of light.	Avoid fertilizers that contain nitrogen. If this does not help, then move the pot to a bright place.
The foliage dries and fades	Rare watering or tuber rotting.	Increase the amount of watering. If this is not the reason, then inspect the tuber and remove the affected areas.

Features of care at different times

In winter conditions

Minimal care.

IMPORTANT. Prepare for winter.

September, October - the container with the flower is moved to a place where there is less light.

Watering is gradually stopped. You can feed it once with potassium fertilizer.

Once the stems dry out, do not water them.

Place in a room where the temperature is +12 degrees.
Moisten once a month to prevent the tubers from drying out.

Watering should be very moderate.

If Sinningia is young, it cannot be hibernated. It is necessary to provide twelve-hour lighting, temperature - +20. Water occasionally.

in spring

To wake up from winter rest, the flower can be covered with cellophane.

Before planting, you need to check the tuber for damage. If detected, they should be eliminated, the wounds should be treated with brilliant green and ash.

In spring you need to inspect gloxinia tubers

For better disinfection, tubers are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. The potato is cut into two parts to check its condition.

If the cut is yellowish or pinkish, it is treated with crushed activated carbon. Each part is planted in separate containers for further cultivation.

A brown or black cut indicates the death of the plant.

In the spring they begin to fertilize. To increase green mass, nitrogen is added first. The next step is complex fertilizers with a low proportion of nitrogen.

In summer

When good conditions are created, the splendor of bluebells delights all summer. Starting from May.

The necessary conditions:

During this period, gloxinias provide good lighting, protecting them from the bright rays of the sun.
Proper watering is required. The soil in the container should be kept moist, not wet. Otherwise the roots will rot.
Moisten with warm, settled water.
To maintain air humidity, spray around the plants. Avoid getting them wet.
Avoid drafts. Otherwise the buds will fall off.
Regular (weekly) feeding is required. Special flower complexes are used that contain the necessary, balanced microelements.

in autumn

Sinningia completely fades by the beginning of autumn.

Care during this period:

Feed with a fertilizer mixture without nitrogen. After this, stop feeding until spring.
Reduce watering. Wait until the leaves turn completely yellow and dry. Their death should occur spontaneously. The tuber will gain strength for winter dormancy. Preparations for winter holidays end by mid-October.
Afterwards, the above-ground parts of the gloxinia are cut off. Leave a stump of 1.5 cm above the potato.
The stump is watered for another two weeks. Then the potted crop is left completely alone until spring.

Caring for gloxinia at home

Like any other plant, gloxinia “puts forward” a number of requirements for living conditions. In order for the bush to please you with bright inflorescences and lush greenery, you need to pay attention to many details, for example, lighting, watering, feeding with special fertilizers, etc.

Lighting

Gloxinia is a light-loving flower, and the duration of illumination should be approximately 15 hours a day. But the southern beauty does not like direct sunlight. Bright rays burn the leaves, which form noticeable gray spots.
On a window facing south, the plant can be left until May. But in the summer months it is better to move gloxinia to the eastern or western windowsill. If the latter option is not possible, then you need to slightly shade the window using light tulle or move the pot to a rack where direct rays of the sun do not fall.

Humidity and temperature

The South American subshrub loves high air humidity, but at the same time is afraid of moisture getting on the leaves and buds. A way out of the situation may be to irrigate the air using a spray bottle next to the pot or place the plant on a tray with moistened expanded clay.

The optimal temperature for the plant is approximately 20-22 °C. In late autumn and winter months, the indoor air should be cooler (about 10 degrees). But it is important to exclude drafts and temperature changes, otherwise the flower will get sick or die.

Watering

The growing season is the time when the flower needs frequent and abundant watering. Florists advise to observe several rules for conducting “water procedures”.

Water should be collected in advance and left for several hours/days to get rid of chlorine and other compounds and impurities.
Cold watering is taboo. The plant prefers water whose temperature is 24-26 °C.
If the surface of the earth is dry, it is not necessary to water the flower itself, but only the soil. Another option is to pour water into the pan, and after a couple of hours, pour out the remaining liquid.

Frequent watering continues until the end of August. Then “water procedures” become more rare, since by November the plant will gradually enter a dormant period.

Top dressing

Caring for gloxinia at home involves the use of special fertilizers. But if, of course, you want to see your green pet blooming and healthy. By the way, a plant that feels good blooms from April until the end of summer.

But this is ideal if the owner additionally supports the growing season with a vitamin-mineral mixture. Gloxinia needs to be fed twice a month, and the procedure is carried out in the evening or in inclement weather, so that the sun's rays do not burn the growth area and leaves.

Before budding, the flower is provided with nitrogenous compounds that stimulate foliage growth. As soon as buds begin to form, nitrogen is abandoned and preference is given to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. These elements actively support flowering.

They stop feeding the plant by the end of August, when you can already forget about the buds. Reducing the amount of minerals in the soil will allow gloxinia to prepare for hibernation and spend the winter months in a calm state.

As soon as the dormant period ends (usually February-March), the flower must be transplanted into new soil. At the same time, it is important to comply with the important conditions and requirements that apply to the soil and the planting pot. Let's consider the basic rules and advice from flower growers.

Choosing soil and pot

Preference should be given to the finished substrate. The most suitable soil is that suitable for violets or begonias. But before planting, it needs to be brought closer to the needs of gloxinia by adding a little baking powder. Its role is played by marsh moss, vermiculite or perlite.

An alternative step is to make your own potting soil. This will require several ingredients.

Earth (3 parts). This essential element of the substrate can be taken from the vegetable garden, garden plot or from under any tree.
Sand mixture (2 parts). This component will promote better water absorption and prevent soil petrification.
Peat components (3 parts). This sedimentary rock loosens the substrate and promotes a better supply of vitamins and minerals to the roots.
Humus (2 handfuls per 2 liters of substrate). This element will become the initial fertilizer for the transplanted tuber. If you refuse rotted manure, then you need to feed the flower literally immediately after replanting.
Drainage. Required component. Its volume will depend on the size of the pot.

The planting container itself should be selected taking into account the characteristics of the plant, which grows in a wide bush. Consequently, the pot should not be too deep, but wide enough. The optimal distance from the edges of the nodule to the walls of the container is 5 cm.

If the old pot is the right size, you can keep it. It is only important to rinse it under running water and wash it with a saturated soda solution with a small amount of potassium permanganate. That's it, it's time to move on to the transplant.

Planting process

By the end of winter, the tuber acquires shoots. This is a signal that it is time to replant the plant. The process itself is quite simple and ordinary, however, it also has important nuances.

Wait for the buds to appear. If shoots do not appear, the tuber is placed in a warm, lit room. Then the rhizome is taken out of the ground, shaken off, dead shoots are removed and washed under the tap.
Cut out rotten and dried areas using a sharp knife. Treat the cut areas with charcoal powder. If the tuber is completely covered with rot, then it is better to get rid of it.
Prepare a weak solution of potassium permanganate. It should be warm. Place the prepared rhizomes in it for 30 minutes to disinfect.
Pour drainage into the planting container. The height of the layer is no more than 2 centimeters. Fill in the soil substrate (approximately 2/3 of the pot's volume). Bury the tuber so that the emerging shoots stick out, and water the soil around the rhizome.
Cover the flower with film. Remove it every day for 60 minutes so that the tuber can breathe.
Add primer and remove the film completely. This should be done when the sprouts are in full force and 2 leaves appear. The soil is added so that the nodule is completely covered.

This algorithm is relevant for an overwintered plant. If you purchased gloxinia with flowers, then you should not replant it. Wait until September, prepare the bush for wintering, and in the spring begin the above steps.

Reproduction

One of the features of gloxinia is that there are several options for obtaining new plants. The flower reproduces with the help of leaves, seeds, cuttings, stepsons and nodules. All these methods differ in labor intensity and final result, but you can choose the most comfortable and effective option.

Seeds

Getting a flowering bush from seeds is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. But if you are ready for a six-month (or even more) wait, then go to a specialized store for planting material. By the way, experts advise purchasing granulated seeds.

Sowing is done in late winter - early spring. For better germination, you should purchase a mini-greenhouse or take a container with a glass or plastic transparent lid. You should also stock up on soil for violets or prepare a soil mixture according to the algorithm described above.

The seeds are sown superficially, that is, they are not buried in the soil, but scattered on top of the soil. After this, the container is moistened with a spray bottle, covered with a lid (with ventilation holes) and placed in a well-lit and warm room.

For 2 weeks, the mini-greenhouse is regularly ventilated and occasionally moistened. After another week, when small sprouts appear, the lid needs to be removed.

As soon as the seedlings grow a little and become stronger (after 4-6 weeks), they are transplanted into separate disposable glasses or special cassettes. Grown plants should be planted in permanent pots of a suitable size (not very large and not very small).

Leaf cuttings

This method of reproduction is considered simpler and more reliable than the previous option. It is only important to choose a small and strong leaf during the growing season. If the leaf plate is large, then it is divided into several parts.

In any case, the leaf is cut across the lines of the veins. It is important to use a sharp knife, otherwise the uneven edges will begin to rot over time. Consequently, such planting material will already be considered spoiled.

Parts of the leaf are planted in separate containers filled with moistened soil mixture. They need to be covered with polyethylene and left for a month in a warm place, but these shoots do not need ventilation or watering. As soon as the leaves take root, the film is removed and the plants are accustomed to indoor conditions.

This propagation option involves using the top of the flower stem. It is cut off with a sharp knife and immersed in a moistened soil substrate. After this, the process should be covered with polyethylene and wait approximately 2 weeks.

Some gardeners first place the cut stem with leaves in water and wait for the roots to appear. Only after this is the seedling sprinkled with soil, making sure that only the stem with roots is in the ground, and that the leaves do not touch the surface of the soil.

By dividing the tuber

This option injures the plant, so it is used very rarely - unless other methods of propagation are suitable. Divide only those tubers that have at least two shoots at least two centimeters long.

The nodule is divided in such a way that at least one sprout remains on each cut part. The separated tubers should be left outdoors for 24 hours to allow the wounds to dry out a little. If you need to plant on the same day, then the cut should be treated with coal powder (you can crush the black tablets from the package).

The tuber parts are planted in small pots. There is no need to press the planting material too deeply, nor do you need to over-water. Excessive moisture can destroy the tubers. If everything went well, shoots will appear after 14 days. Now all that remains is to transplant the flower into a permanent pot.

Perhaps such efforts may seem excessive to some. However, if propagation, transplantation, care and cultivation of the plant occurs according to the rules, then gloxinia will live on windowsills for 10 years, annually presenting caring owners with bright and very beautiful inflorescences.

Flowering conditions

It begins to bloom in March. With good care it can smell fragrant until mid-autumn.

Gloxinia flowering

The conditions created are favorable for this.

The plant is light-loving. Should be placed on a sunny windowsill. But provide diffused light.
From the moment of awakening until the beginning of flowering, watering is moderate. With the appearance of buds, hydration is more intense.
The entire period requires regular (every ten days) feeding. Fertilizer mixtures are purchased in specialized stores. They are used according to the instructions supplied with them.
Air humidity plays an important role. It should be 75%.
The entire flowering period in the room should be +22 degrees. Otherwise, development will stop and the buds will begin to fall off.

Varieties of indoor gloxinia flower with photo

Three decades ago, an article paragraph containing a description, names and photos of various varieties of gloxinia, also called Sinningia, would have caused confusion: only purple and lilac bells decorated the window sills. Selection does not sleep; the appearance of varieties with white, pink, red petals and even polka dots was greeted with joy. Despite the variability of colors, gloxinia is also divided into varieties according to the size of the bush and the shape of the corollas.

Rosettes of hybrid flowers reach 20−30 cm. The corollas can be simple or double, the color of the flowers can be plain, calico or tiger. Breeders have long noticed this interesting plant and have developed numerous varieties and hybrids that are grouped together. Gloxinias of the Avanti series reproduce well by seeds, are compact and have velvety bells of different colors.

Avanti white - like a bride in a wedding dress

Tigerred: mischievous colors
IMPORTANT! (click to find out)
IMPORTANT! Do not purchase seeds where it is written on the packet that they are from Tigrinared - you can get seeds from a hybrid, but they will not recreate the maternal qualities.

There are two types of flowers: some look like a bell, others look like a slipper. Below in the photo is Gloxinia Hollywood - a popular hybrid of purple color and with a white-lemon shade of the bell neck. The flowering is very lush and decorative.

Hollywood - sophistication of color

The Dutch developed many hybrids with double flowers. One of them is named Yesenia. The plant has a medium-sized rosette and leaves and a spectacular head of inflorescences similar to rose buds. There is a white and pink border along the edge of the petals.

Tender terry Yesenia

Here are a few more beautiful varieties that amaze with their flowering:

Gloxinia Kaiser Wilhelm: royal colors

Prince Albert: wavy frame of purple-black corollas

Violacea is a classic among gloxinias. Particularly noteworthy is the long flowering throughout the summer months.

There are many varieties and hybrids, you can easily choose a color to suit every taste.

Carried out after the end of winter rest. From February, shoots begin to appear on the potato. The time has come to transplant the nodule. It is better to buy the substrate in a specialized store. To prepare it yourself, you need to mix humus (1 part) with leaf soil (2 parts).

Fill a container for potted culture (4 cm in diameter larger than the previous one) with drainage (at the bottom) and prepared soil. Then transfer the gloxinia along with the earthen lump into the prepared pot. Sprinkle the potatoes halfway with the substrate and compact. Finally sprinkle the top after the sprouts appear.

Description

Gloxinia is a perennial. It is grown from a tuber. The stem is short, bending under the weight of numerous large flowers. At the same time, up to 20 large bells, from 7 to 12 cm in diameter, can bloom on gloxinia. The leaves are arranged in a rosette on long stalks around the stem and have a bright dark green color and a velvety surface. Flowers on long peduncles are shaped like bells or shoes and come in all sorts of colors: white and red, lilac and purple, in addition, single-color or variegated, simple and double, with a border along the edge of the petal or speckled.

Gloxinia received its name in honor of the doctor and botanist from Alsace Benjamin Peter Gloksin. Gloxinia belongs to the Gesneriev family. This flower is native to South and Central America. In the wild, it is found in the deciduous forests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru in the form of perennial herbaceous plants or low shrubs, there are more than twenty species. This flower is also called Sinningia in honor of another botanist V. Sinning, who, while engaged in its selection and breeding of hybrids at Boston University, became the second father of gloxinia. The indoor indoor flower Sinningia-Gloxinia was grown by him. The basis for selection was two species of wild gloxinia: Gloxinia beautiful and Gloxinia royal. Depending on the size and shape of the flowers, whether they are double or regular, wavy or smooth, the result is a variety of synningia hybrids.

Landing

For this procedure, soil specifically for tubers is purchased in the store. Add some hydrogel. Fill the pot and place the nodule there.

It is checked for damage before landing. If any exist, they should be eliminated. Treat damaged areas with ash, brilliant green, and Fundazol.

REFERENCE. Hydrogel is useful because it is saturated with moisture. As the soil dries, it releases it, decreasing in size. Thus, the flowers do not become flooded and do not dry out.

To prevent diseases, treat healthy potatoes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (7 minutes).

ATTENTION. The container for a potted plant should not be much larger than a potato. Otherwise there will be no flowering. Due to the growth of roots by the plant.

Gloxinia flower - growing features

Indoor gloxinia is a tuberous perennial with a short stem and juicy velvety leaves of rich green color. The same velvety bell-shaped flowers, simple or double, pink, red, white, purple, speckled, frilly or two-colored, reach 5 cm in length and 7 cm in diameter. Numerous gloxinia seeds are very small. Of the 25 species that exist in nature, only Gloxinia royal and Gloxinia beautiful became the basis for breeding work.

Royal Gloxinia (Gloxinia regina)

It is a flower with thickened stems up to 10 cm in height. Dark green pubescent leaves, with silver veins on the upper side and reddish on the bottom, broadly oval, arranged oppositely in 4-6 pieces, from 15 cm to 20 cm long. Peduncles are long, bell-shaped drooping flowers of a dark purple hue reach a length of 5 cm , and in diameter 7 cm.

Gloxinia speciosa

A herbaceous plant with broadly oval, evenly green leaves narrowed at the base on long stalks. Flowers of various shapes, depending on the variety, including double gloxinia, white, red, violet, blue, pink, purple, there are forms with a white rim around the edge.

Flowers for the lazy

Like any plant, gloxinia has some features:

after flowering, the above-ground part of the flower dies, and it is important to wait until this process spontaneously completes;
before the dormant period, gloxinia requires feeding with fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen - potassium monophosphate, for example;
a gloxinia pot requires a decent size, for an adult plant - at least 15 cm in diameter;
if you want your gloxinias to bloom all year round, arrange a rack or a warm shelf for them with additional lighting for 14 hours a day.

Reproduction

Propagates easily: by cuttings, seeds, shoots, leaves, tuber division.

Reproduction of Gloxinia

The cuttings can be rooted directly in the soil. To do this, make a hole with sand in the center of the pot filled with soil mixture. The cutting is placed there and covered with polyethylene. After a month, nodules form.
Seeds for propagation that are 2 years old are sown in November-February. Use a wide, shallow container. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil on top. Cover with transparent film. Keep at +22 degrees, good lighting.
The shoots appear in the spring. They take root while in water.
The leaf blade is cut along the veins. Place it on the ground, press it in, and cover it with polyethylene.
In the spring, the tuber is cut into lobes with shoots. Each cut is sprinkled with ash and treated with Fundazol. Next - cultivation as after a dormant period.

Reproduction of gloxinia at home

Gloxinia from seeds

The rich assortment of gloxinia seeds in specialized stores inspires optimism for those who want to test themselves as a breeder. But don't expect too much from this experiment. Growing gloxinia from seeds begins with purchasing seed material - thank God, this is not a problem today - and it is better to purchase granulated seeds. The packaging usually indicates a germination period of 4-6 months, or even 9-10, but this is only if you sow in winter or autumn. If you do this in March, the process will go much faster.

You can use purchased greenhouses for sowing, or you can make a greenhouse yourself: loosely place and soak peat tablets in a deep plastic container with a lid, and spread the granules onto them without embedding them in the soil. Make several holes in the lid for ventilation. Place the greenhouse with the seeds in a bright, warm place with a temperature of approximately 22-23 ºC and for one and a half to two weeks, carefully moisten the soil as necessary and wait for the emergence of seedlings. When the sprouts sprout and get stronger, plant them together with peat tablets in disposable cups, and after a while in permanent pots.

Reproduction of Gloxinia by leaf

Whatever they say, vegetative propagation is usually more reliable than seed propagation, and if you do not have a particular reason to grow plants from seeds, use the vegetative method, and we will tell you how to grow gloxinia from leaf cuttings. Since Gloxinia leaves are quite large, take either the smallest leaf or divide a large leaf into fragments. The leaf blade must be cut across, parallel to the transverse veins; the leaf petiole is also cut off, leaving no more than 2 cm. Use a sharp tool for cutting, otherwise the edges of the leaf or its fragments may rot.

Plant the fragments in pots with a light, slightly moist substrate and place them in a greenhouse or cover them with a plastic bag - for a month you will not have to water the soil or ventilate the greenhouse, and after a month the rooted fragments should be gradually accustomed to life outside the greenhouse, opening the plastic for a short time . The greenhouse with the rooting parts of gloxinia should be kept in a well-lit, warm place.

Rejuvenation

It is easier to rejuvenate with a leaf petiole. Leave a 2 cm petiole on the leaf. After 25 minutes (when the cut dries), plant it in moist soil. Place in a plastic bag, making a small hole. The cover is removed after the root has taken root.

If you plant a young rosette, buds may soon appear on the new plant.

You can renew with sprouts from an old plant. You need to break out the sprout, plant it in the substrate, cover it with a bag

They also rejuvenate by dividing the tuber according to the number of eyes. Treat the cut with wood ash. Plant in the ground.

Tuber storage

After completing the preparatory measures, the tubers of adult gloxinia are removed from the soil for subsequent storage. It is convenient to do this using the transshipment method:

Transfer the earthen lump from the pot into a large, wide container.
Use your fingers to gently knead the soil and divide it into several parts.
Remove the tuber and remove any remaining soil from it.

Important!

Then the tuber is washed well under running cool water and dried. You cannot send it for storage wet. This leads to the formation of rot.

Methods and conditions for storing tubers

Different methods are used to overwinter gloxinia at home. A plastic bag with a mixture of wet sawdust and washed and heated river sand in the oven is suitable for storing the developed root. The mixture is slightly moistened. Otherwise, the tubers will turn sour due to lack of air and too much water.

The prepared mass is poured into the lower part of a thick bag. Then the prepared tuber is placed in it and covered with the remains so that it is completely hidden from view. After this, the bag is put away in a place suitable for wintering.

The premises for successful preservation of tubers in winter must meet the following requirements:

lack of intense lighting;
air temperature not lower than +3 degrees and not higher than +15 degrees;
humidity from 60 to 90%.

These conditions are closest to the natural ones under which gloxinia overwinters in its homeland. The easiest way to create the necessary microclimate is to place bags of bulbs in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator intended for vegetables. This option for storing gloxinia is suitable if there are few plants.

Important!

The disadvantage of this method is that the air in the refrigerator becomes very dry. Therefore, you should regularly check the condition of the soil in the bag and, if necessary, moisten it.

Another suitable option is to place bags of tubers on a glazed but not heated loggia or balcony. In this case, the air should not warm up above +20 degrees. Otherwise, the tubers will leave the resting stage ahead of time.

Storage in soil

It is much easier to care for a flower in winter if you do not remove the roots from the soil. Preliminary preparation in this case is carried out in the usual way. Then the container with the root system in it is moved to a colder room. You can put it on the floor near the balcony door, but there should be no heating devices nearby. This ensures the optimal temperature.

Another option is to take the pots out to an unheated glassed-in loggia or move them to the cellar. Any room where the temperature will be significantly lower than that created during the growing season is suitable.

The top layer of soil is sometimes moistened with water. You should not water the soil too much, but you should not allow the soil to dry out completely. This is a good way to store tubers in the bathroom. For additional cooling, it is recommended to occasionally place pieces of ice on the surface of the soil.

Advantages and disadvantages of storage methods

The proposed methods for preserving the viability of tubers are used in accordance with the age and condition of the plant. They have their pros and cons:

young gloxinia is left in the ground for the winter, this is more likely to prevent the tuber from drying out;
if there is no suitable place to place pots or there are a lot of flowers, then the off-ground method is more suitable;
when placing tubers in bags, the risk of rot formation increases, so they are often checked;
It is most convenient to keep bags of gloxinia in the refrigerator in winter;
if there is no suitable room or large refrigerator, it is optimal to store the roots in the bathroom;
Gloxinia purchased in the fall can be preserved using a soilless method with mandatory preliminary disinfection.

Watering

Rules:

Warm water at room temperature.
If the water is hard, add a third of a teaspoon of soda or boil and cool.
The water from the tap is settled (to remove chlorine and heavy compounds).
Morning watering is better. Evening can lead to fungal diseases. During the day it is also undesirable.
Do not pour water on the green mass. Rot may appear.
It is better along the edge of the pot or from the pallet.
Moisturize as needed. You can’t do it too much: the roots will rot.
For proper hydration there must be a structured substrate with drainage. There is a hole in the bottom of the container.

Awakening of Gloxinia

With the end of winter, young shoots hatch on the tubers. This indicates that the plant is coming out of sleep. Then prepare fresh soil, water it a little and plant the tubers in it. There is no need to deepen them; it is better to leave the top on the surface. Watering begins 7 days after planting. Do not overwater the plant so as not to provoke fungal diseases.

During the initial growing season, weak shoots are removed, leaving only a few of the strongest ones. This is necessary for better tuber formation. How beautifully and magnificently the gloxinia will bloom depends on its strength.

Important!

Broken off shoots are not thrown away; they will become excellent material for growing new flowers. They are buried in fresh soil, lightly watered and covered with plastic bottles with several holes for ventilation.

Top dressing

Both mineral and organic fertilizers are used for fertilizing. Mineral ones use any complex mixtures for flowers (Agricola, Kemira Lux, Krepysh). Frequency: every two weeks (March - October).

Feeding gloxinia

Humic fertilizers are valuable for Gesneriaceae. Thanks to the bacteria they contain, they are a good preventative against fungi.

Rules

After transplantation, 1.5 months later, synningia is fed with a fertilizer mixture containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in a ratio of 1:2:2.

Nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate) cause the growth of green mass.

CAREFULLY. Do not apply more nitrogen than required. When there is an excess of it, the green mass grows powerfully and the buds fall off.

Phosphorus (superphosphate) increases the appearance of buds. With an excess of phosphorus, Gesneriaceae quickly age.

Potassium (potassium sulfate) influences the improvement of bud formation. With too much potassium, growth stops.

Microelements (calcium, iron, manganese, molybdenum, sulfur) have a positive effect on the development of Gesneriaceae. Dilute fertilizers with water: 1 gram of fertilizer per 1 liter of liquid. Water every two weeks. Only healthy potted crops are fed.

Fertilizer mixtures are applied after the main watering, 3 hours later. Trying not to get the solution on the bush. Only along the edge of the pot. The procedure is carried out in the evening or in cloudy weather.

You cannot use infusions from food products. They contribute to the emergence of many pests.

Before sending the Sinningia to rest, it is necessary to feed it twice with a potassium-phosphorus mixture. The interval is two weeks.

No feeding is required for transplanted Gesneriaceae that are at rest.

In all cases, it should be remembered that excess application of fertilizer mixtures should not be allowed. This will lead to the decay of culture.

The soil

The soil for growing gloxinia should be loose, light, moisture and breathable, containing organic matter and mineral fertilizers in the required proportions. If you prepare the soil mixture yourself, take two parts of leaf soil, add one part of river sand and the same amount of peat. But it is better to purchase ready-made soil for flowering plants. The soil is good for Violet, Saintpaulia or Begonia. Good drainage is required at the bottom of the pot. This is expanded clay, small pebbles, polystyrene foam or clean eggshells with a layer of at least 2-3 cm. The roots of gloxinia grow in breadth, select containers for planting that are shallow but wide.

Top dressing

Gloxinia is a very demanding flower when it comes to nutrient soil. The rapid growth of its leaves and lush flowering is achieved by additional feeding. To do this, use special fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants. It is advisable to feed gloxinia with organic and mineral fertilizers once every two weeks, alternately. It is better to choose the time for fertilizing after the main watering in the morning or evening, and also during the day if the weather is cloudy, so that the sun does not burn the delicate leaves and flowers of the plant. During the period of active leaf growth, before the appearance of buds, gloxinia needs more nitrogen fertilizers (but do not overfeed the plant with nitrogen; excess nitrogen is even worse than its deficiency). After the formation of buds and during flowering, only potassium-phosphorus additives should be used for feeding. Then the flowering will be more abundant and decorative. At the beginning of autumn, you need to feed the plant for the last time this season with superphosphate or potassium monophosphate for successful wintering of the gloxinia tuber, and then stop all feeding - the plant needs to prepare for the dormant period.

Care during the rest period

The beginning of winter holidays is mid-autumn. With yellowing of the foliage, moisture is reduced. After the ground part has completely dried, watering is stopped.

Preservation of nodules:

Potatoes are removed from the ground. Free from soil, apply antiseptic. Place in a plastic box filled with moistened sand. Place in a cool (+11 degrees) dark place.
You can fill a plastic bag with soil mixed with vermiculite (1:1). Place the nodules there and tie them up. Place in the vegetable container of the refrigerator.
Sinningia is left in a pot, which is filled to the brim with dry sand. Then they take it to the basement for storage. Water occasionally - once a month.

Sometimes Gesneriaceae do not have time to form nodules of sufficient size for storage (they have less than 6 pairs of leaf blades). They cannot be sent to rest: they may die. Let them continue to grow.

It is necessary to provide moderate moisture, nutrition, and lighting. Next year these will be flowers with a normal life cycle, like other gloxinias.

Main life cycles of gloxinia

Since gloxinia is a tuberous plant, it has a special life cycle. There are three main periods in the life of this flower during the year:

Rest period
Period of active growth
Flowering period

Dormant period (gloxinia hibernation)

In indoor gloxinia, the dormant period is pronounced. Unfortunately, it is not able to bloom all year round and delight us with its magnificent flowers and even leaves. As we wrote above, by mid-autumn, after the next flowering, gloxinia stops drinking water, the stems and leaves turn yellow and dry, and the roots die. The plant begins a dormant period. The stem is cut to a height of one to two cm above the soil. It is worth watering the stump moderately for another two to three weeks, without feeding it. Let gloxinia sleep. Only the tubers of this flower remain alive, which, if properly stored, are preserved until the next season.

Gloxinia tubers

Ways to preserve gloxinia in winter:

The tuber is carefully dug up, cleared of soil, treated with an antiseptic, placed in a plastic container with slightly damp sand and put away for the winter in a dark, cool place, such as a garage or basement with a temperature of 10-12°C.
The tubers are stored in a plastic bag with a zipper along with vermiculite mixed with the substrate 1:1. The bag is zipped and placed in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment. This way you will have peace of mind that the tubers will not dry out.
The tubers are not dug out of the soil and are left to overwinter in a pot, which is filled to the top with dry sand and taken to a dark, cool room - a garage or basement. As a last resort, go to the bathroom, where they are stored under the bathtub, covered with a dark film. During the dormant period, gloxinia should be watered very rarely - 1 - 2 times a month, just so that the tuber does not dry out. Flooding it is even worse than drying it out - it will begin to rot and may die. Gloxinia will remain in this dormant state for one to three months. It is not advisable to allow the plant to germinate prematurely, as it will grow weak and incapable of flowering.

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If gloxinia has not formed a tuber sufficient for storage, what should you do?

If gloxinia is still small, just grown from seeds, then its tuber is still very small, and such a plant simply will not survive the dormant period. To understand whether your flower can survive the winter, count its leaves. If there are less than six pairs, such a flower cannot be sent to rest, it may die. Let gloxinia continue its growth in winter. If you provide it with moderate watering and nutrition, humidity and plenty of daylight with the help of lighting - next year, when your flower grows at least six pairs of leaves and begins to form buds - it will enter a normal life cycle, like all gloxinias, it will bloom and will retire in the fall.

Also, a tuber may not form when growing gloxinia from a leaf or cutting, especially when the cutting is deeply buried in the soil.

The period of the active cycle in gloxinia

By the beginning of a new active cycle, with proper care of the dormant tubers of the plant, new roots and sprouts will begin to appear on them. Typically, gloxinia begins to grow in February or early March. The tubers are taken out of an old pot or from a container with sand - depending on where they were stored, they are cleaned of soil, and old roots are removed.

Every spring, gloxinia is transplanted into new, healthy soil in all respects!

Each tuber is inspected, rotten or dried areas are cut off with a clean, sharp knife or scalpel. Immerse in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. The cut areas are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. Sometimes gardeners treat tubers with growth stimulants. Then try not to immerse the plant deeply in the solution so that the growing point is not exposed to the drug. After all treatments, give the tubers time to dry thoroughly - within a day is enough. Sick and wrinkled - throw away. This is a guarantee that the remaining tubers will give us healthy and strong plants capable of blooming with lush, beautiful flowers for a long time and repeatedly.

The pot for gloxinia is selected depending on the size of the nodule. It can be ceramic or plastic. For a small young plant, a pot up to 10 cm in diameter is suitable; for a long-flowering plant with a large tuber, choose a pot up to 15 cm in diameter. The height is usually taken the same as the width. You should not buy a growing pot for gloxinia - the plant will fatten in it, only dense foliage and tubers will grow, and our beauty may forget about the need to form buds. In addition, too much moisture may accumulate in a large pot, which can cause the tuber to rot.

So, the tuber is planted in the ground at two-thirds of its height. We have already written above that a special soil mixture for flowering plants - “Saintpaulia”, “Begonia” - is suitable for the soil. At the stage of transplantation and subsequent rooting of gloxinia, there is a risk of losing tubers due to their rotting.

Therefore, do not forget about drainage, 2-3 cm of expanded clay or other material at the bottom of the pot is a prerequisite for healthy roots!

The soil is slightly moistened. The pot with the tuber is placed in a bright, warm place under a film until the first pair of leaves appears. Don't forget to ventilate it morning and evening. When the leaves grow up, remove the film completely. The nodules are covered with soil no more than one cm, just to cover it. It is better to water through a tray or carefully along the edge of the pot so as not to flood the middle of the flower with its growing point.

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Sometimes, seemingly healthy, strong tubers do not show signs of life along with others. Wait a little, perhaps these tubers need a little more time to begin an active life. If you place them in the ground and start watering them, they will most likely rot, because they will have nothing to absorb food and water. Wait for the natural awakening of gloxinia.

If, however, you need to wake up the sleeping beauty, try to artificially activate the growth of the above-ground part of the plant. To do this, well-processed dormant tubers, prepared for planting, are placed in a bag with a slightly moistened peat substrate. The bag is tightly closed and placed in bright but diffused sunlight. If this is a problem, put it under a phyto lamp for 12-14 hours. The germination temperature should be high – 24-26°C. Keep the tubers in such a bag without ventilation until they begin to sprout. After a week or two, you will see drops of moisture on the inner surface of the bag - these are the tubers that have begun to breathe, and a growing point has hatched on them. This means the tuber is ready for planting. It is possible that this flower will catch up with the others in growth and will bloom beautifully no worse than them.

Gloxinia did not wake up after winter dormancy, what should I do?

Sometimes it happens that gloxinia did not wake up after wintering. The first aid for awakening it is to wrap the flower pot in a large plastic bag and moisten the soil. It is quite possible that the winter was too dry and the tuber dried out. Then, in a package from the artificially created greenhouse effect, the flower can wake up and begin to grow.

Sometimes gloxinia, which is too young, is sent to winter because it did not have time to form a sufficient tuber in the first year. Such gloxinia will never wake up.

If a gloxinia tuber was purchased last year in a store, but after last year’s flowering it did not survive hibernation, it may be due to the poor quality of the planting material. The tubers looked decent and healthy, but in reality it could turn out that the tuber was already old, or infected with an infection, or affected by pests. Or perhaps he was simply overfed with growth stimulants. Such tubers were strong enough to bloom once, and during winter dormancy, they most likely died.

Dig the tuber out of the ground and inspect it. A shriveled tuber can most likely be thrown away. If there is hope that the tuber is still alive, cut it in half. If it is all brown inside, it needs to be thrown away. If only part of the tuber is brown, you need to cut off all the rot and treat the remaining parts of the tuber with brilliant green. You can soak it briefly in Epin or Zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber.

Gloxinias usually live no longer than four to five years. If you value your gloxinia variety, think in advance about its propagation - after all, the plant may not emerge from hibernation simply because the tuber is already old and has simply died.

Bloom

Gloxinia usually begins to bloom in late spring. Sometimes, the plant awakens a little earlier, at the beginning of February, then at the end of March it can bloom. Although, for this you will need to create the most comfortable conditions for the plant - sufficient lighting with the help of lights, moderate watering, temperature within 22-24°C, high air humidity. Then it will delight you with its vigorous flowering, perhaps more than once during the season.

Typically, the period of the first rapid flowering occurs at the end of May - beginning of June. Until the end of summer, gloxinia will delight you with its amazing flowers.

Read more about gloxinia flowering and what to do afterward in this article.

Different varieties

There are 25 species. Of these, two types (royal and beautiful) are the basis of many varieties.

Most popular:

Cleopatra. It is distinguished by the sophistication of its petals. Their wavy edges are covered with polka dots, which towards the middle are connected into solid purple lines.

Gloxinia Cleopatra

Kaiser Wilhelm. Lots of fleshy leaves. Flowering begins after 3 years. Simultaneously produces a large number of peduncles. The petals are dark purple with a white edge.

Yesenia. Lush harmonious bush with dark pink flowers.

Gloxinia Yesenia

Winter cherry. The bush is lush. It has buds with large white petals covered with red and maroon dots.

Gloxinia varieties

The flowers of many varieties of Sinningia are decorated with a contrasting border along the edge of the petals. For example, the Kaiser Wilheim variety has very large flowers with dark blue or dark purple petals with a white border around the edges, and the Kaiser Friedrich variety blooms with huge bells of a bright crimson color with a clear white border along the edge of the petals.

The variety Blanche de Meru, on the contrary, has flowers with a snow-white center and a wide, bright crimson border. The Gloxinia variety Yesenia has double flowers, burgundy or beet color. The Avanti variety has bells with a velvety surface of the most unimaginable color. For example, Red Avanti has wine-red bells and blooms up to 15 large flowers at a time on an adult plant.

The inner surface of the Tigrin variety or the Calico variety is dotted with speckles, similar to the colors of some exotic fish. The Tamara variety has delicate purple petals with specks inside the middle of the bell. The Mont Blanc variety has white petals. The Gloxinia variety Cleopatra is considered the most popular. Large white double flowers with wavy edges are decorated with speckles of lilac, purple or dark purple. And the Sinningia Winter Cherry variety is distinguished by large white flowers with large dark cherry polka dots.

Kaiser Wilhelm

Kaiser Friedrich

Blanche de Meru

If you like dwarf species of indoor gloxinia, plant the Brokada variety. It has wonderful double flowers of different shades that bloom from spring to autumn. Or Gloxinia royale. It is slightly higher than 10 cm in height. On thick shoots there are 4 – 6 pairs of large dark green oval leaves. Silvery veins decorate the upper part of the leaf, and the inner side is purple. Purple flowers up to 7 cm in diameter stand on long peduncles and look down.

Winter cherry

Mont Blanc

Yesenia

We can recommend gloxinia varieties such as Speckled to beginning flower growers. This is a perennial herbaceous plant up to 70 cm in height with fleshy speckled shoots. Beautiful oval leaves are pointed at the top. The surface of the leaf is bright green velvety, with a reddish tint on the underside. The flowers are purple-blue in color, arranged in several pieces on a long peduncle and have a pleasant mint aroma. This gloxinia usually blooms in the fall, in September-November.

In addition, hybrid forms of gloxinia differ in crown diameter:

The standard one has a crown more than 25 cm in diameter
Compact - from 12 to 25 cm in diameter
Miniature - from 5 to 12 cm in diameter
Microminiature - up to 5 cm in diameter

Diseases and pests.

Diseases: rot, blackleg, late blight, powdery mildew, viral infections.

Most often, diseases occur from excessive or improper hydration. Infection can occur through the soil.

Prevention: an excellent remedy is phytosporin. Foundationazole is used for treatment and prevention.

To prevent diseases, the following rules must be followed:

Do not place more than one pot in one tray
Provide bright, yet diffused light.
Before planting, treat the soil with late blight or steam it.
The basis of the soil mixture should be peat. It provides lightness and breathability.
Moisturize in a timely manner, without drying out or flooding the soil.

Pests: Ticks, thrips.

Ticks

Prevention against ticks: regularly ventilate, spray.

Control measures: destroy the affected parts. Treat with insecticide three times (every week).

Thrips

If affected by this most persistent pest, the bush must be isolated. It is better to replant in new land. Treat three times (weekly) with an insecticide (Intavir, Fitoverm, Karbofos).

Thrips on Gloxinia leaves

Gloxinia diseases with photographs and their treatment

Plant diseases are the result of improper care. A beautiful home bell can be affected by gray rot or root rot. In the first case, treatment involves removing the damaged areas and using a fungicide. Root rot overcomes the flower after regular heavy watering. On the flower you can find powdery mildew, late blight, and black leg. Phytosporin is used as a preventative measure, and treatment is carried out with foundationazole.

Diseases of gloxinia leaves necessarily require treatment

How to get rid of midges in indoor flowers using simple methods. In a special publication on our portal, we will talk in detail about how to get rid of pests in indoor plants. You will learn the reasons for their appearance, the types of midges and their signs and measures to prevent the appearance of midges.

What pests are dangerous for gloxinia

When examining a plant, a layer of dust is sometimes found at the bottom of the leaf. This is probably an accumulation of hordes of mites that the human eye cannot see. Gloxinia is usually attacked by the cyclamen mite. As an additional indicator of its appearance, deformations and thickenings appear in the leaves.

When attacked by mites, the leaves begin to curl downwards, the stem twists, and the petals become deformed. The plant looks dejected and is on the verge of death

The spider mite is located on the back side of the leaf and actively sucks nutritious juices from the plant.

White dots appear on the leaves after the appearance of spider mites, developing into yellow-brown spots. Sometimes a thin cobweb is visible

Trpis also do not disdain gloxinia.

Consequences of improper care

If the grower notices yellowing and falling leaves, it means that watering is too frequent or there is a lack of nitrogen. Curling leaves indicate excessive dry air or high temperatures. Increased humidity is indicated by simultaneous curling of the leaves, shortened pedicels and deformed flowers hidden under the leaves. Flowering may not occur due to excess nitrogen or lack of light.

Common mistakes

No flower stalks.

Reasons: large capacity, not enough light, lack of power, too cool air

PECULIARITY. The old root does not always produce flower stalks. Better to rejuvenate.

The leaves are drying.

Causes: dry air, location in direct sunlight, too much humidity. It is necessary to diffuse the lighting and moisten the air more often using a spray bottle.

IMPORTANT. The soil needs to dry out between waterings.

The stems are stretched.

Reasons: heat (optimally +19), lack of light, excess nitrogen in the soil. Stretched stems should be cut off and rooted. New shoots will appear in their place.

REFERENCE. If the error is not corrected, there will be no flowering.

The leaves begin to turn yellow.

Causes: excessive moisture, lack of nitrogen.

Possible difficulties

With proper care, the tropical beauty Gloxinia can live up to 10 years, delighting its owners with colorful blooms. Moreover, the older and more developed the plant, the more flowers it will have. Sometimes their number reaches 50 pieces!

Brown spots on gloxinia leaves- this indicates that water has gotten on them, as well as the use of too cold water for irrigation.
Gloxinia leaves turn yellow– a sign of dry or too humid air, direct sunlight or excess fertilizer.
Gloxinia leaves curl- this happens with excessive feeding and exposure to drafts.
Stretched, pale leaves- a sign of lack of lighting.
Gray coating on flowers and leaves- this indicates that the plant is infected with gray rot.
Flowers remain hidden under leaves- this happens when daylight is short or the temperature is too low.

Answers to popular questions

What to do when gloxinia fades?

Answer. You need to trim the stem. Leave 1.5 cm closer to the ground. Move to a more illuminated place and feed. Re-blooming will occur.

Allow the leaves to dry completely before leaving for the winter.

Sinningia does not want to retire.

Answer. Do nothing forcibly. This means that the nodules are young and small. They may not survive the winter. They must be watered very carefully in winter, and adequate lighting and nutrition must be provided.

Winter care for young gloxinias

For young plants, the winter dormancy period proceeds differently. In flowers of the first year of life, a very small tuber is formed. Therefore, without additional moisture in winter, it will die. Such specimens do not hibernate. Since the daylight hours at this time of year are short, the plants are provided with additional lighting, extending it to 12 hours.

It is important to maintain the air temperature at an optimal level. If the room is hot, the plant will develop an aerial part and stretch the stem instead of growing a mass of roots. Therefore, the temperature should be maintained at +20 degrees. Water the flower rarely, so as not to provoke rotting of the tubers.

For gloxinias that have already bloomed once, a special approach is required. They have already formed a medium-sized tuber. Therefore, conditions are created for the flower to be in a half-asleep state. To do this, the pots are placed on the north side and sometimes watered with a small amount of water. When the daylight hours lengthen, the rested gloxinia will begin to grow again.

Reproduction methods

At home, the plant can be propagated in the following ways.

Seeds

Select a wide, shallow container, at the end of February - beginning of March, fill it with moistened light soil substrate, distribute the seeds over its surface, cover the top with film, and place it in a warm place. After 10 days, the sprouts hatch, after which the film is removed and the container is placed in a bright place with diffused lighting. After 30-40 days, the plants are picked and transplanted into separate glasses.

Leaf

When stretching a bush, its top is cut off, and the resulting leaf plates are rooted. The petioles are cut with a sharp, disinfected knife near the base of the stem. The petiole is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and deepened at an angle into the soil substrate (to the beginning of the leaf).

There is another way of propagation by leaf. First, the petiole is removed, and 3-4 through cuts are made on the reverse side along the central vein. A groove is formed in the soil, a leaf blade is laid, pressing tightly along the cuts. Then cover with film, place in a bright place, regularly ventilate and moisten. After 1.5 months, new shoots should appear.

By dividing the tuber

The manipulation is carried out after the formation of buds on the tuber. Using a sharp, disinfected knife, the tuber is cut into pieces, each of which should have a growing point. The cut site is treated with crushed coal, each part of the tuber is placed in a separate transparent plastic cup with soil substrate, and placed in a well-lit place. Water carefully through a tray, avoiding overwatering. When the roots have formed and entwined the soil ball in the cup, you need to replant.

Temperature

Gloxinia is considered a heat-loving plant, therefore it is advisable to maintain an optimal temperature regime at 18-22 degrees. During tuber germination, the plant requires a higher temperature - approximately 25 degrees. In such conditions, young shoots develop much faster.

If the temperature exceeds 28 degrees, there is a risk of stopping the development of the crop. This has the following consequences:

overheating of roots;
loss of leaf turgor;
lack of buds;
rapid wilting of flowers.

When temperatures drop, there is a risk of plant growth slowing down. In such a situation, gloxinia becomes overcooled, which leads to rotting of the roots, falling buds, and yellowing of the foliage.

Exit from Gloxinia dormancy

The appearance of young shoots on tubers at the end of February indicates the beginning awakening of gloxinia. Then the tubers are transplanted into a fresh, slightly moist soil substrate without deepening them. It is better that the tops of the tubers are not covered with soil. Watering begins a week after transplantation. Watering should be moderate; waterlogging can lead to fungal diseases of the roots. At the beginning of the growing season, it is advisable to remove several shoots, leaving a few strong shoots. This is done with the aim of directing the vital forces of the plant to the development of tubers, the quality of which will determine the beauty and splendor of flowering. Broken sprouts that have reached a length of 5 cm can be used to propagate the plant. They are planted for rooting in other pots and covered with transparent plastic caps with holes for ventilation. It is convenient to use plastic bottles to make shelters.

Possible growing problems and diseases of gloxinia leaves.

How to care in winter?

In winter, plants that have not gone to rest require care. They are watered and, if possible, the daylight hours are extended using fluorescent lamps.

You can learn more about the features of caring for gloxinia here.

What can I do to make her wake up?

Tubers stored during the dormant period should be cleaned of soil residues, washed in warm water, and checked for integrity. Existing damaged areas should be powdered with charcoal. The tubers need to be dried. To restore overdried tubers:

soak for a day in a solution of Epin or Zircon;
It is recommended to leave soft tubers wrapped in a wet cloth for 3 days;
Place the tubers in moistened vermiculite.

When examining the stored tubers, you will notice that some have sprouted. Then it must be removed from the bag and planted in fresh substrate.

What to do if you wake up early in November?

The pot with gloxinia that has woken up ahead of time can be moved to the window, watered and conditions for further growth can be created (it is advisable to organize additional lighting). You can make it simpler: remove the sprouts that appear.

Doesn't retire

In gloxinia that does not retire, the part located above the ground becomes elongated, and the plant loses its attractiveness. In the future, it will not be possible to obtain good flowering, since for the correct development of the tuber it requires a rest period of 2 to 4 months.

It is recommended that such gloxinia be forcibly retired. To do this, in early October you should cut off the leaves and stem of the plant without waiting for them to dry out on their own. Pots should be placed in a cool, dark place.

Having sent such a plant to rest, due to the death of the tuber, you may not wait for it to wake up. After that, How will the flowering of such gloxinia end?, it is necessary to trim the stem above the first pair of leaves. Shoots will appear from the axils and you can continue caring for the plant as usual.

How to grow from seeds?

Gloxinia can reproduce by seeds, leaves, and division. It is impossible to obtain seeds yourself, so they are purchased at retail outlets. They are sown from November to February in small boxes. They are poured onto the ground and placed in a lighted place. It is necessary to spray regularly and wait for germination.

Shoots are expected in half a month. When two leaves are visible, a pick is made. Seating is carried out at a distance of 20-30 mm. They are transplanted into pots at the moment when they begin to touch. Growing from seeds is the easiest way.

Wintering without rest

When gloxinia does not fall into a state of rest, it loses its attractiveness and becomes very elongated. Lack of rest leads to few flowers appearing. To avoid this, the plant is forced to rest.

To do this, cut off the upper part of the flower in October without waiting for it to fade on its own. The containers are moved to a dark, cold room.

Important!

Dutch gloxinia obtained from seeds cannot be forced to rest. Such a flower has not formed tubers, so it dies.

When the flowering of such a plant ends, cut off the upper part, leaving a couple of lower leaves. Soon new leaves grow from the axils. Caring for such gloxinia continues in the usual way.

Pros and cons of storing gloxinia in winter in the ground and without soil

It is better to store young Sinningia without removing it from the ground. This way there is less risk of drying out;
Pots with soil are bulky; if there is little space and a lot of flowers, choose off-ground storage;
Bags of tubers need to be checked frequently for rot;
The bags are convenient to store in the refrigerator - the most suitable method for wintering a flower called gloxinia;
Wintering in the bathroom is an option if you don’t have a cellar, balcony, or large refrigerator;
Moistening the top layer of soil with ice is the best way to store gloxinia in a warm room in winter.
We store purchased tubers without soil with mandatory disinfection.

What errors occur during cultivation?

Other problems also affect the condition of the flower. Among them it is noted:

Yellowness of leaves. The plant needs less water. Fertilize it with nitrogen.
Brown spots are the influence of cold water.
Fading is a lack of magnesium.
The buds do not bloom and turn black. This is due to the huge amount of flowering part. The plant simply does not have enough strength, and it cannot convey the beauty of its appearance. Recommendations when planting: you need to use fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium.
The buds dry out during flowering. Most often it will be affected by lack of humidity. Place bowls of water near the pot, and water the flower more abundantly.

Possible problems

If the tubers were stored in unsuitable conditions, they wake up ahead of schedule. There are several solutions to solve this problem:

If very small sprouts appear on the tuber, then they are left and the amount and volume of moisture are reduced.
Large shoots are cut off and the root is returned to its storage location. In the spring, it is transplanted into prepared soil.
Immediately plant the tuber in a container and illuminate it with fluorescent lamps. Then the plant grows weak and very thin. At the end of winter, the top of such a flower is cut off and rooted in another pot. After a short time, gloxinia produces young shoots.
Keep awakened tubers in cooler conditions to slow down development. At the same time, they create high-quality natural lighting.

Preparation for winter and pruning

If the plant is young, then gloxinia does not need to be pruned in the first year for the flower to gain strength.

If the plant has dropped all its leaves, you need to trim its stem so that the height of the remaining small stem above the ground is no higher than one centimeter.

Then, for a month, the plant is supplied with a minimum amount of moisture and is not fed. And only after this the tubers are carefully dug out of the ground and put away.

If you properly care for gloxinia bulbs during the hibernation period, then they will be able to survive until the next season. After proper rest, the plant will begin to produce new shoots and roots.

Features of flowering

Bromeliad flower - home care

Gloxinia pleases with colorful flowering every year. If this does not happen, it means that mistakes were made during care or the plant was not given due attention.

Period of activity and rest

Gloxinia blooms in late spring and loses its last petals in autumn. In November, preparations for wintering begin. The plant requires less moisture, the leaves dry out. There is no need to cut them; after they die, they transfer nutrients to the tuber. During storage, it needs to be inspected occasionally; experienced gardeners advise moistening the rhizome. It is planted after the buds appear.

Types and shape of flowers

The flowers resemble bells. Their buds are not lowered, but turned to the sides. There are terry and regular varieties. The former have a larger number of petals filling the inside of the flower.

Terry variety

Rest period

When should gloxinia be removed for the winter, for rest? Typically, the plant goes into a midnight state in September-October, which marks the start of the dry season in their homeland of South America.

In the case when the plant has faded and does not want to fall asleep, it needs help. If gloxinia does not go on vacation on time, the flowering dates will shift, which should fall in the spring and summer months.

To prevent this from happening, at the beginning of autumn, faded gloxinia begins to be prepared for wintering. If flowering is late, wait until it ends. After complete independent death of the above-ground part, the tuber is ready for storage. If everything is done correctly, gloxinia will begin to wake up no earlier than January - February.

Possible problems with growing indoor plants

On flower growing forums you can often see questions about growing gloxinia, since it is not the easiest plant to care for.

What to do if gloxinia wakes up in December

If gloxinia woke up ahead of time, for example, in December, it is important to understand what to do to save the plant.

Early awakening is most often provoked by improperly organized wintering.

If gloxinia begins to sprout in the middle of winter, you must follow one of the following recommendations:

Remove the released shoots and put the tubers back to sleep. In this case, care should be taken to comply with all the rules for wintering the plant.
If the sprouts are small, you can leave them. It is enough for such tubers to limit moisture and lighting.
You can leave the awakened tubers alone and resume normal care. In this case, additional lighting is installed for the flower, providing 12 hours of daylight. If the stems grow weak and too thin, they must be removed with the onset of spring, leaving a couple of growth points. It is advisable to keep the plant at the minimum temperature allowed for the growing season (18℃). Then growth will be less active.

Gloxinias with small tubers can do without rest. They do not waste energy on flowering, so their early awakening is not a problem. An adult flower requires winter dormancy. Lack of rest can affect not only subsequent flowering, but also the health of the plant. Therefore, gardeners should carefully monitor winter conditions.

How to help if a plant’s leaves are deteriorating

The following problems may occur with the leaves of the flower:

We can conclude that the reason why the leaves of a flower deteriorate is improper care.

The flower is withering - what to do?

The reasons for plant wilting can also be caused by improperly organized care. If all the growing requirements are met, but the plant still wilts, this may be a symptom of the development of rot.

Root rot usually occurs due to waterlogging of the soil. Excessive watering and untimely draining of water from the pan are fertile ground for the development of pathogenic microorganisms.

At the first symptoms of rot - darkening of any above-ground parts of the plant, the flower should be treated immediately. To do this, it is freed from the affected areas and treated with a fungicide.

Inexperienced gardeners may be afraid of autumn wilting. There is no need to be afraid: this is a natural process of preparing gloxinia for a period of rest.

Signs of diseases and pests and help for the plant

In addition to the above-mentioned gray and root rot, the flower may suffer from the following diseases:

late blight (brown spots with a mold border on the leaves);
black leg (mucous coating and darkening of the root part of the stem, accompanied by drying out of the entire plant);
powdery mildew (white powdery coating on ground organs).

Powdery mildew and early stage late blight can be eliminated using garden fungicides. Blackleg disease has no cure.

Among the pests, the most common insects are:

thrips (light dotted spots on leaves);
spider mite (thin cobwebs on the petiole and underside of the leaf);
cyclamen mite (deformation, thickening, folding of leaf plates).

The fight against harmful insects involves repeatedly treating the plant with insecticides. Phytosporin is used to prevent diseases and pest infestations.

What to do if the gloxinia tuber does not wake up?

Usually gloxinia sleeps for about 3 months. In some cases, gloxinia sleeps longer (4-5 months) and does not want to wake up, despite artificial lighting, watering and increasing the temperature. If gloxinia does not wake up, but the tuber is healthy, hard, without visible signs of rot, you can stimulate the plant to awaken. However, before waking up, you still need to carefully examine the gloxinia tuber. To do this, it is washed with warm water and examined. If there is rot, it is removed (cut out) to healthy tissue, the cut area is sprinkled with fungicide and the cut is allowed to dry. Drying is carried out for 2 days. During this period, the cut is observed. If it has dried up and spots of rot no longer appear, then the tuber will certainly produce healthy sprouts in the future.

There are several ways to wake up a gloxinia tuber. All of them have been tested by specialists and participants in popular forums. Each of the above methods gave positive results.

1 way. You need to take a regular, transparent, plastic bag, preferably with a zip-lock fastener, but you can do the most ordinary one. Place a little (2-3 tablespoons) of light, peat soil, slightly moistened with water, at its bottom. Next, the gloxinia bulb, which does not want to wake up, is placed in the bag. The bag is zipped or tied. It is placed in a well-lit place. If there is an artificial lighting lamp, then under it. the temperature of the tuber should be within +24. +28 degrees. The package is not opened. It can be ventilated once every 3 days to avoid air stagnation.

The result comes in 2 weeks. In a greenhouse with good lighting and high temperatures, one gloxinia tuber can produce from 2 to 5 sprouts. The brighter the light, the more sprouts. However, if you leave more than 2 sprouts on one tuber, you don’t have to wait for the plant to bloom this year, and therefore the “extra” sprouts can be cut off and rooted. The tuber itself is transferred from the greenhouse to a regular pot with soil. But we must not forget that the gloxinia tuber cannot be completely buried in the ground, otherwise it will rot.

Method 2. A greenhouse is also used here, but this time it is made from a plastic, transparent bottle or glassware. So, the gloxinia tuber is inspected for rot. If there is none, then proceed as follows: wet moss or vermiculite is placed at the bottom of the improvised greenhouse. Tubers are placed on top of the wet material. The greenhouse is covered with glass or a bag and placed in a bright, warm place. The content temperature is within +24. +28 degrees.

In a greenhouse, a gloxinia tuber may turn green. It's OK. In the ground it will take on its normal color. In such a greenhouse, a flower can also develop several sprouts at once. Some of them must be cut and rooted. If the tuber first begins to expel the roots, and not the green part, do not worry. He woke up and soon green sprouts will appear. Such a tuber can also be transferred to a pot with soil.

Illumination

The optimal daylight hours are up to 14 hours. In winter, lighting is required to replace natural light. The advantage is not the direct rays of the sun, but the diffused ones.

Why are there no flowers?

Often no flowers are observed. And this is preceded by various reasons:

There is not enough moisture or air temperature for plants;
The landing is already old. In some situations, transplantation will become irrelevant;
The soil is infested with pests;
Allow a draft or low temperature;
I don't like the capacity.

IMPORTANT! Among the main tips, it is worth noting that you follow the rules of care so that such a problem does not arise.

Preparation: soil and pot

Gloxinia is not very picky about the composition of the substrate, so there should be no problems with the choice. Preference should be given to light soil with a sufficient amount of nutrients, which will allow moisture and air to pass through well. Peat-based substrates are ideal or the soil used for planting violets.

Also, you can prepare the soil yourself by mixing 1 part of soil taken from under any tree (except oak), peat (with a low degree of acidity) and 0.5 parts of sand, you can add manure or humus. Before planting, you should disinfect the soil with boiling water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

If you use soil that is too dense, there is a risk of plant rotting, as this can cause moisture retention in the soil and lack of air.

The choice of pot depends on the size of the tuber:

The diameter of the pot should be 4-6 cm wider than the tuber itself.
The height should be calculated for 3-4 cm of drainage layer, soil with a completely covered tuber.
A mandatory factor is the presence of drainage holes to prevent water stagnation.
You can choose the material to your taste, there are no restrictions here.
The color of the pot should preferably be light so that the gloxinia does not overheat in the sun.

It is better to start planting small tubers in containers that are not too wide so that the flower does not begin to grow its root system, as it will delay the flowering of gloxinia to a later date. However, there is no need to overdo it; a container that is too tight (less than 9 cm) will not benefit the plant. It may begin to wither and shed its leaves, and the soil will constantly dry out.

Useful video

seeds;
leaf;
cuttings.

Gloxinia flower is a beautiful flowering plant from the Gesneriaceae family. These delicate plants are very popular among gardeners, since caring for gloxinia at home does not cause problems.

Many hybrid varieties of this flower have been bred. The most popular of them are gloxinia hybrid- a flower with a pubescent shortened stem. The flowers of this variety reach up to 12 cm in diameter and resemble bells.

Gloxinia is beautiful. It is considered the source for most hybrids. The ellipse-shaped leaves are narrowed towards the base. Flowers are up to 5 cm in diameter, often pink or purple.

Caring for gloxinia will not be a hassle if you correctly observe the regime of active growing season and dormant time.

How to care for gloxinia at home

The plant prefers cold southern rooms.
The gloxinia flower is light-loving, but requires maximum lighting during the forcing period. Then you need to provide your pet with 14 hours of daylight. You can't do without artificial lighting here.
Gloxinia loves warmth, but cannot tolerate heat. Especially in addition to dry air.
Any loose soil with a neutral reaction is suitable for the soil. It is best to purchase a specialized mixture in the store. Be sure to use drainage.
You need to water the flower often, but choose small portions. When gloxinia fades, try to gradually reduce watering to zero. Sometimes you can water the tubers in winter to avoid drying out. Make sure that the water for irrigation is warm, otherwise you risk ruining the flower. Pour water only onto the soil, avoiding contact with flowers or leaves.
Gloxinia is demanding on air humidity, so spraying is required. Only you need to spray not the flower itself, but the space around it.
Gloxinia is fed only during the active growing season, especially at the stage of bud formation. Use only organic fertilizers.
The plant has a pronounced dormant period. After flowering, the aboveground part dies off. It needs to be removed and the pot with tubers moved to a cool, dark place.
Gloxinia is propagated by leaf or stem cuttings or by dividing rhizomes.

Video: Care and cultivation of gloxinia flower

We grow gloxinia from seeds at home

Planting seeds in early or mid-February.
We purchase planting material, preferably Dutch or English, and check the planting dates on the label.
We disinfect the prepared soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
We maintain the temperature to 23 degrees, avoiding sudden changes.
It is also necessary to take care of an additional light source.
We make holes at the bottom of the prepared container, add drainage, and then the prepared soil.
Since the seeds are very small, we carefully scatter them over the surface of the prepared soil and cover with film. You will get a mini-greenhouse.
Place the container in a well-lit place.
We periodically ventilate the seedlings by removing the film. This will help prevent mold and rot.
We don't water. For sprouts to appear, the condensation formed on the film will be enough.

Video: Gloxinia, growing from seeds

Gloxinia flower, grown from a tuber

Planting a tuber of a gloxinia flower is carried out in late December - early January.

We prepare the tuber for planting. To do this, remove the old scales from it and wash it in warm water.
Pour drainage into the prepared pot and then soil.
We root the tuber only 2/3 of the way; green sprouts should remain on the surface.
The soil around the tuber needs to be slightly moistened.
Leave it like this until the leaves begin to grow. Only after this do we add more earth, leveling the surface.

Video: Planting a gloxinia tuber after winter dormancy

It is important to remember that the successful growth of your gloxinia directly depends on whether you stored the tuber correctly during the dormant period.

How nice it is to come home after a long day and find yourself in a fairyland instead of a dull room! The indoor gloxinia flower helps create the feeling of being in a magical place. Caring for a plant at home consists of a small set of rules and recommendations, which will be discussed in an article on the website portal.
What do flowers give us? Joyful mood, positivity and aesthetic pleasure

Varieties of indoor gloxinia flower with photo

Avanti white - like a bride in a wedding dress

Tigerred: mischievous colors

Do not purchase seeds where it is written on the packet that they are from Tigrinared - you can get seeds from a hybrid, but they will not recreate the maternal qualities.

Hollywood - sophistication of color

Tender terry Yesenia

Here are a few more beautiful varieties that amaze with their flowering:

Gloxinia Kaiser Wilhelm: royal colors

Prince Albert: wavy frame of purple-black corollas

Violacea is a classic among gloxinias. Particularly noteworthy is the long flowering throughout the summer months.

There are many varieties and hybrids, you can easily choose a color to suit every taste.

How to care for gloxinia at home

The requirements that gloxinia sets for care and cultivation at home must be met. In this case, you can expect abundant and bright flowering.

Requirements for soil and pot for indoor gloxinia plant

Gloxinia reacts positively to the same soil mixture that is selected for violets. A good addition to the substrate would be perlite or vermiculite. The mixture, which is prepared independently, consists of deciduous soil, peat and sand in proportions 3: 3: 2. For organic matter, 200 g of humus per 5 liters of soil is suitable. The rosette of the plant feels good in a wide, low pot with the obligatory addition of drainage.

However, too much direct sunlight can harm the delicate leaves. The charming lady will not be happy with a draft - if you need to open the windows often, make sure that the door to the room is closed. The required air humidity can be achieved by placing a container of water next to the pot.

During the flowering and growing season, the plant is comfortable at room temperature, but during the dormant period it is important to maintain +10°C. Look at the leaves - if they look down, it means the plant is freezing. Located upwards - they are overheated, it is necessary to reduce the air temperature.

Beautiful flowers await careful care and attention

How to water and feed gloxinia

Watering is carried out carefully: do not get water on either the outlet or the leaves. It is advisable to humidify through a tray. The signal for urgent watering is the dry top layer of the substrate. From mid-August, watering is reduced, but systematically. This is done for a smooth transition into dormancy mode in the fall. A complete mineral complex or fertilizer for Saintpaulias and violets is suitable as a fertilizer. It is enough to fertilize once every two weeks.

You should not overfeed the flower; it is better to underfeed it a little.

In August, you need to reduce the amount and frequency of fertilizer application, otherwise the plant will not prepare for the dormant period. Lack of fertilizing will lead to pale and unattractive flowering. When a new growing season begins, you can start fertilizing - this way, the plant will quickly wake up and begin to grow.

Fertilizer is inexpensive, and the plant will enjoy massive abundant flowering in response to fertilizing.

How to replant gloxinia

The plant craves annual replanting at the end of winter. New soil is pre-prepared. If the tuber has noticeably increased, then the pot is selected larger than the previous one. We'll tell you how to plant a gloxinia tuber in a new pot. First, lay a layer of drainage, then pour a little substrate and lower an earthen ball with a flower onto it. The space is filled with soil, pressed down and carefully watered.

The tuber should only be half in the soil.

Sometimes flower growers hear the question, how do they plant and care for a gloxinia bulb? We answer: this plant does not have a bulb. The correct name is tuber.

How to care for gloxinia during the flowering period

If you are wondering when gloxinia blooms, we answer: the beginning of flowering occurs in May or June. Care consists of regular watering and fertilizing according to the established schedule. After the flowering period, all leaves and shoots are removed. Only the bottom two sheets are left on the rosette. The emerging stepsons are removed, leaving only two.

How does gloxinia reproduce?

How wonderful it is when your favorite flower reproduces without problems: you can give a new plant or receive it as a gift. For each variety there is the most successful method of propagation.

The beauty reproduces without problems

How to plant gloxinia as a tuber

Not the most pleasant method of propagation for a flower, but effective. There is no special secret in how to properly plant gloxinia tubers. The tuber must be mature and healthy. If rot is found on its surface, trim the affected area and treat it with charcoal. The tuber is cut into several parts, each also sprinkled with coal. It is important that there is a shoot on all plots. The resulting pieces are planted in a substrate containing perlite or moss - high humidity is needed at first.

How to grow gloxinia from seeds at home

The choice of seeds becomes a festive anticipation of the result. Please note that seeds from hybrids will always fail, so check whether this is really a variety and not a hybrid. The package will contain the necessary information about the timing of germination. Typically, seeds sprout within 4-6 months. Winter sowing is not recommended due to the long germination period of 10 months.

The process will be successful when organizing a mini-greenhouse. We recommend taking an empty, clean 1.5-liter juice container. A thin layer of foam pieces is placed on the bottom to prevent stagnation of moisture in the soil. Before sowing, the substrate is moistened with a spray bottle, the seeds are distributed over the surface of the soil and slightly pressed into it with your finger. The top of the container is covered with plastic film with several small holes for air access. The box moves to a warm, well-lit windowsill. The ideal air temperature is +23°C. Moistening the soil with a spray bottle is required as it dries.

Do not touch fragile seedlings - it is important to wait until they actively begin to grow. Then transplant into permanent pots.

Propagation of gloxinia by leaves and cuttings

Leaf propagation is convenient because you don’t even have to tear out a large leaf, since a small piece of a leaf with a central vein can handle the task of giving birth to a new gloxinia.

Illustration	Description of action
	Prepare the required number of plastic cups and fill them with moist substrate, not reaching 2 cm from the edges. The leaf petiole is cut off during budding: leave no more than 3-4 cm in length. The cut is made with a sharp disinfected object. This will prevent rotting processes in the leaf. The wilted leaf should be briefly immersed in water at room temperature.
	A leaf with a stem is inserted vertically into the cup and pressed slightly at the base with a finger.
	Insert all leaves without force - excessive pressure can damage the petiole.
	Each cup is placed in a plastic bag of a suitable size with a zipper and closed. All that remains is to monitor the humidity of the substrate and briefly ventilate future gloxinias daily. A month later, the plant is planted in a permanent pot.

Gloxinia diseases with photographs and their treatment

Diseases of gloxinia leaves necessarily require treatment

In a special publication on our portal, we will talk in detail about how to get rid of pests in indoor plants. You will learn the reasons for their appearance, the types of midges and their signs and measures to prevent the appearance of midges.

What pests are dangerous for gloxinia

When attacked by mites, the leaves begin to curl downwards, the stem twists, and the petals become deformed. The plant looks dejected and is on the verge of death

The spider mite is located on the back side of the leaf and actively sucks nutritious juices from the plant.

White dots appear on the leaves after the appearance of spider mites, developing into yellow-brown spots. Sometimes a thin cobweb is visible

Trpis also do not disdain gloxinia.

Consequences of improper care

Why gloxinia may not wake up, and what to do to correct the situation

During long hibernation, the plant is placed in a bag to provide it with greenhouse conditions. To study this issue in more detail, we suggest watching this informative, detailed video:

Gloxinia is a non-capricious plant, and you will very quickly learn how to properly care for it at home. Let your flowers be as beautiful as in the photo in the article.

The dormant period for gloxinia is January and early February. Therefore the most the optimal time for planting or replanting a plant is the end of February, at this time the tubers usually awaken. However, it is worth paying attention to some details if you plan to plant it during this period. Since he does not always wake up in February, sometimes this process can drag on until May.

A distinctive sign of awakening is the buds that form on the tuber. Also, if the awakening process does not start for a long time, you can wake it up artificially.

It is important not to miss the beginning of awakening, because if you do not plant the tuber on time, this will negatively affect the plant and may destroy it.

When planting seeds, things are simpler, since they can be planted at any time, but growing them into a strong plant is much more difficult. But, when growing seeds at home, you can create unusual hybrids or enjoy the sight of rare varietal specimens.

Although seeds can be planted at any time, the temperature, humidity and light of the growing environment must be taken into account. That's why when planting in autumn-winter, you should think about additional lighting, since the daylight hours of this plant are 12-14 hours, and the temperature is 20-24 °C.

In order for your gloxinias to bloom all year round, you can arrange a rack or a warm shelf for them and provide them with lighting for 14 hours a day. Why gloxinia does not bloom and how to make it produce buds, you will learn from.

Preparation: soil and pot

Gloxinia is not very demanding, so there should be no problems with the choice. Preference should be given to light soil with a sufficient amount of nutrients, which will allow moisture and air to pass through well. Peat-based substrates are ideal or the soil used for planting violets.

If you use soil that is too dense, there is a risk of plant rotting, as this can cause moisture retention in the soil and lack of air.

We invite you to watch a video about growing a flower with seeds:

How to care after transplant?

For proper care after plant transplantation, you should consider the following recommendations:

Gloxinia is a long-day plant, so to obtain a strong, profusely flowering plant, it is necessary to provide good lighting with diffused light. But do not expose it to direct sunlight, the flower may overheat.
During the period of tuber germination, the air temperature should be slightly above 25 degrees to accelerate the growth of young shoots. But do not reach 28, as the plant stops developing.
High air humidity is needed.
Watering should be done with warm water. Be sure to ensure uniform watering so that all parts of the root receive their portion of moisture.
The room in which gloxinia grows must be regularly ventilated to prevent fungal diseases from forming. But strong drafts should not be allowed. Read about diseases and pests of gloxinia, as well as methods of combating them.

Gloxinia looks like a fairytale flower

Indoor flowers give us the opportunity to create a special atmosphere and “living” space. And humanity has been carrying out serious breeding work for centuries aimed at preserving and improving what nature has given it.

Today we will talk about the house plant known as gloxinia and how to care for it at home.

Short story

The homeland of Gloxinia is South America, the territory of modern Brazil and Colombia. The first flowers were brought to Europe back in 1739, where they quickly gained popularity, both due to their aesthetic properties and the pleasant and strong scent that they spread around them.

As a result of scientific research later, the genus of Gloxinia was divided into Gloxinia and Sinningia. However, these names are applicable only in a scientific or semi-scientific environment. Fans still prefer to call both “gloxinia”, which, in fact, has the right to exist at least due to a long tradition.

Photo of a florist who loves these flowers very much

Thus, gloxinia has been cultivated at home for over 250 years, and to date a very large number of its varieties and hybrids have been bred.

Main varieties

Two species are mainly grown - Gloxinia regina (royal gloxinia) and the more widespread Gloxinia speciosa (beautiful). The first has the peculiarity that its flowers are bell-shaped (one version suggests that this is why the word itself came about) and a thick lilac color. The petals of beautiful gloxinia can have a variety of shapes and tones.

The flowers of the plant have many different shades

The color range of the indoor plant - gloxinia - is very wide - from pure white to thick purple, almost black; many hybrids with speckled colors have been bred. In general, you can easily choose flowers to your liking.

Gloxinia at home does not make any special demands on the environment, but has its own minimal restrictions. Firstly, illumination is fundamentally important. It should be quite high, because this plant really loves long daylight hours. However, it is afraid of direct ultraviolet radiation, and in this case the leaves may get sunburn in the form of brown spots. It is most optimal to place it on window sills oriented to the West or East; if the plant is exposed to the hot sun from the South, it is better to shade it a little.

As for temperature conditions, gloxinia is quite unpretentious. The lower threshold of air temperature for it is 16-18 C, the upper -30 C, the ideal temperature is 20-22 C. The flower does not tolerate drafts, but at the same time the air should not be stagnant. With the help of active ventilation, you can simply temporarily rearrange the flower, but if drafts do not occur or they are short-lived, then this is acceptable for it.

What a beautiful shade

Its soil requirements are quite simple. You can either take ready-made mixtures (“Violet”, etc.), or prepare it yourself. Then take one share of sand (medium-sized, river), one share of peat, two shares of earth. As a result, the soil will be slightly acidic, with a pH value in the range of 5.5-6.5. The plant loves a “breathing” environment, so you need to try to keep the soil loose enough.

Care and watering

Gloxinia - home care consists mainly of optimal water supply and hydration. The flower loves humidity, but does not tolerate direct contact with liquid, so it is better (especially at elevated air temperatures) to use a spray bottle. Placing the pot on wet pebbles also helps.

Watering during flowering should be frequent, but excessive moisture can harm the plant, so it must be done based on soil moisture. By the end of summer, when flowering ends and the plant begins to wither and prepare for a dormant period, the intensity of watering should be reduced. As already mentioned, moisture should not be allowed to get directly onto the flower itself and its stems.

On average, the seeds of this plant germinate in about 2 weeks.

The room temperature of the irrigation liquid, which ideally should be rain or settled, is also an extremely important factor. It is important to remove faded leaves in time; in the fall, when the leaves turn yellow, the plant must be trimmed, leaving a small “stump” a few centimeters high and the pot placed in a room with a slightly lower temperature.

In January, it is necessary to replant it into new, non-depleted and more nutritious soil. In general, growing gloxinia at home does not require constant and mandatory fertilizing of the soil, although it can accelerate growth and flowering. In this case, you need to start in mid-spring (April) and fertilize weekly until the end of flowering at the end of summer.

Gloxinias do not really like nitrogen - then their leaves begin to grow hypertrophied, while the flowers become smaller. It is better to focus on products that contain a lot of potassium and phosphorus, however, an excess of the latter can lead to earlier and more intense, but short-term flowering of a plant such as gloxinia, the photo of which is practically admired.

Reproduction

There are three methods of propagation for this plant. The simplest and most reliable is by dividing the tuber, of course, if there is one and it is large enough. The tuber is cut into two parts (so that each has at least one sprout), the cut site is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, and the tubers are planted in different pots.

During the first two days, watering should not be done, as there is a high probability of rotting. The second method is propagation by cuttings. While the plant is forming buds, the young leaf must be separated. It is planted in a nutritious loose medium, in a hole measuring 3x3x3 centimeters, filled with sand. The rooting petiole is covered with a jar, the pot is placed in a sunny place, but the sprout itself is protected from exposure to direct rays using gauze or other loose fabric. After about a month, the jar can be removed and the plant can be returned to normal mode.

There are so many of them

And finally, if you or someone you know doesn’t already have this flower, gloxinia can be grown from seeds at home. They are sown in winter, in shallow flat containers with light soil mixed with sand. The seeds do not need to be sprinkled with soil or buried; sowing is rare. Then they cover it with glass and place it in a warm room where the temperature should not fall below 22 C. After about two weeks, germination occurs. As soon as the first two leaves become clearly visible, the first pick is made into the same bowl, with a distance between shoots of about 2 centimeters.

The second picking is made when the third pair of leaves appears on the sprout, the distance between the sprouts increases to 5 centimeters. After all three pairs of leaves have developed well, the last pick occurs at a distance of 10 centimeters. When the leaves of the sprouts reach this diameter, they need to be transplanted into individual pots. If you do everything correctly, the full growth cycle, from sowing to flowering, will be approximately seven months.

Video

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