The weight of the feeder feeder for the current. Catchable budget tackle for perch: it successfully catches striped perch in spring and autumn. The main advantages of an asymmetrical loop

Power tools 13.03.2022

Power tools

Donka with a feeder is a catchy and popular tackle. With its help, a small container of bait is delivered in close proximity to the nozzle, which allows you to increase the number of bites. For all the seeming simplicity of the device of such a donkey, when installing it, several subtleties must be taken into account, which will be discussed in the article.

General information about donks

The peculiarity of bottom rods with feeders is that the container in which the bait is placed performs a dual function. When casting, it becomes a load and flies a long distance, when it falls to the bottom, it turns into a place for feeding fish. In this way, the angler not only delivers a hook with bait to the required point, but also tells you where to eat.

In addition to this quality, there are also other advantages, such as the possibility of fishing at long distances, at depth or in the current, where it is not possible to accurately cast bait, and finally, the cost of components is low. The main drawback is the difficulty in using the donkey in the twisted places.

To understand how to make a donkey with a feeder, you should familiarize yourself with the types of donoks. The most commonly used bottom gear of the following designs:

"Zakidushka". Ancient tackle. It is a fishing line with a diameter of 0.3-04 mm and a length of up to 50 meters, collected on a reel. Initially, a load was used, fixed at the end of the snap, leashes with hooks were located a little higher. Then sliding sinkers began to be used, and the leash with the hook was moved to the end. This decision increased the sensitivity of the gear. Feeders in this version are not used for a simple reason: in order to cast the bait, the angler first spins the load, and due to centrifugal force, all the bait is poured out of the container.

"Elastic". An original and very catchy rig that helps to achieve high results in mass fishing of such fish as crucian carp, roach, ram, sabrefish. To make it a bottom tackle, you just need to tie a rubber shock absorber directly to the load. The fishing line following, then spreads along the bottom. You can make an elastic band with a feeder, but then you will have to choose a tighter shock absorber and the lightest possible feed container in order to spend less effort on its delivery.

Donka from spinning with a feeder. Came to replace the "zakidushka". Initially, a spinning rod (usually a large test) was taken as the basis, equipped with an inertia or inertialess reel, on which a fishing line with a load and hooks is wound. Later, a feeder, mainly of a spring type, began to be used as a load, in which the bait was stored for the longest possible time. This option was chosen for a simple reason: it is inconvenient to make frequent casts, but there are no longer any shortcomings of the snack.

Feeder. Modern tackle, consisting of a special rod with flexible interchangeable tips (signalers), an inertialess reel, monofilament with a diameter of not more than 0.3 mm and multiple variations of feeders and leashes.

What are the feeders

There are several types of feeders in which anglers deliver bait mixtures. Let's describe them.

"Spring". The most common type of donkey feeder. It is designed for stagnant water and is manufactured industrially or with your own hands exclusively in a sliding version. Assembling the tackle is very simple: just pass the fishing line through the axial tube, then into the stopper, tie a swivel, to which attach a leash with a hook.

Most often, it was equipped with a donkey from a spinning rod with a feeder. Some modifications of the "spring" provide additional weight on its axis. If you need to load it yourself, then it is better to use a lead tape, making several turns on the axis.

The bait for such a feeder is prepared with a viscous consistency so that it does not crumble when it hits the water and, when it falls to the bottom, disintegrates for a long time. It is rarely used on rivers and canals due to its shape and tendency to roll downstream.

The classic "spring" with a "rocker" and their location in gear

There are very small feeders, which can be equipped with both half-donks and a fishing rod with a float. Tackle collected in this way sometimes gives unexpectedly good results.

"Cage" - a mesh feeder. The most common option. It appeared with the introduction of the picker and feeder into the practice of fishing, and during its existence it has been modernized and improved more than once. It is made with a built-in weight and is attached at one point. It can be round or rectangular in cross section.

With this feeder you can go to any non-predatory fish, including carp and bream. With its help, the angler first feeds the selected fishing point, throwing a container filled several times without a hook and sharply pulling the tackle when it reaches the bottom. The feed freely exits the tunnel and remains in the water. Then the leash is put on, the tackle is thrown and the fishing process itself begins. Each time you strike, additional feeding occurs.

Net feeder - the main tool for feeder fishing

If you plan to fish in a strong current, a rectangular net with a large flat weight is selected. In stagnant water, both types can be used, but if the bottom of the pond is silty, containers that do not go into the viscous bottom should be preferred.

Closed feeder. A cylindrical plastic container of this kind is used in circumstances where there is a large amount of an animal component in the bait, such as maggots or bloodworms. They can leave the inner space only through a limited number of holes, near which the interested fish will be “on duty”. Sometimes some of the outputs overlap for greater efficiency.

Feeders of closed type are designed for bait with animal components

Naturally, it will be possible to successfully use such a feeder only in stagnant water, since it does not provide for weighting. But it does not sink much into silt, which is an additional advantage of this container option.

Feeders for long distance casting. When fishing, it may be necessary to cast tackle over a long distance (more than 60 meters). Ordinary mesh containers will not fly like that, and they may not withstand the load. Therefore, special designs have been developed that can travel long distances by air.

To improve flight performance, a round lead weight is attached to the feeder at some distance, as a result of which it takes the form of a bullet.

Feeder "bullet" - designed for long distance fishing

This design should not be used on silted water bodies. In addition, she is prone to hooks.

Feeders for special occasions

In fishing practice, there are cases when conventional types of feeders are not suitable for fishing conditions. Let's describe them.

The old proven design for many years allows you to successfully lure carp and carp. It consists of a lead plate, to which a bar of pressed sunflower cake is attached with the help of rubber from a bicycle tube.

Leashes with hooks here are tied tightly to the base, the hook attachment was not put on, and its sting was stuck into the top of the head in the corners into the drilled holes. The tackle worked on the principle of self-cutting, and the angler sometimes did not even set a bite signaling device, determining the presence of a trophy by the sag or tension of the fishing line.

In the complete absence of a bite, the hooks could be equipped with a nozzle, which was preferred by large fish - corn, peas, soybeans, etc.

A plate with a top is a passive tackle designed for large cyprinids

In strong current conditions, it is required that the bait container remains stationary during the entire time of fishing. With conventional mesh feeders, this result is difficult to achieve. Therefore, the anglers made it as flat as possible, while maintaining the volume for the bait mix.

Flat feeder for strong rivers

In order for the other qualities of this element to remain in force, it was necessary to strengthen the attachment point to the fishing line. It is made from all metal.

This type of bait container is indirectly related to the topic of our article, but it should be mentioned, because sometimes in the process of fishing you have to rebuild on the go in order to get away from zero.

You can do it yourself by taking the feeder, removing the load and securing in the upper part (where there is no fastening) a large amount of floating substance (mounting foam, polystyrene, etc.). The main thing is that the device capsizes in the water, gradually dropping the bait.

The tackle here will become more complicated, since it is necessary to calculate that the nozzle does not sink too much, and the fish is not afraid of the container.

A floating feeder is a good tool to attract fish close to the surface of the water.

How to fix the feeder on the fishing line

There are several rigging recipes for a bottom feeder rod. The leash is knitted the same for everyone, but the attachment of the bait container depends on the intentions of the angler, his preferences and fishing conditions.

Sliding fixture. It is used both for "springs", when the line is threaded through the axial tube, and for feeders with one attachment point, when the line passes through the eye of the bracket or anti-twist tube. It is worth dwelling on the last option in more detail.

The essence of the equipment is that when biting, the fishing line slides freely in a plastic tube, and when casting, the feeder with the nozzle are divorced and do not intersect. The finished item can be purchased at the store, but most often it is made independently.

As an anti-twist, anglers use either an empty ballpoint or gel pen refill, or a cocktail tube. The rigid construction element prevents the rig from twisting and overlapping without resisting the line.

The feeder is attached at the place of the fold, made about 1/3 of the tube, rigidly to the tube or with a small leash. Hook and container when casting will be located at a certain angle. The free movement of the main line within 30 centimeters is limited on both sides by stoppers. The leash for the hook can be placed directly after the straw.

The attachment point is made of copper or soft steel wire. When winding, they leave a small eyelet into which a swivel or carabiner is threaded. You can pick up a small piece of insulation that fits over the tube in diameter.

The anti-twist tube allows the line to slide freely inside and prevents the equipment from twisting

The tackle is convenient, but athletes are skeptical about it because of poor camouflage in clear water.

Paternoster. It is not difficult to assemble such equipment correctly, and installation is carried out directly on the pond.

First, at the end of the fishing line, we tie a loop about 25 centimeters long. Knit should be a double knot, be sure to wetting it for strength. Then we conditionally divide the circle of the loop into three parts and cut it at a distance equal to 2/3 of this circle. You will get two unequal parts. We tie a swivel for a leash to the larger one, and a swivel for the feeder to the smaller one.

After casting and pulling up the tackle, they are parallel to each other. When biting, the force is directly transmitted to the signaling device, bypassing the feeder.

Equipping a donkey with such a mount is also not difficult. First, a swivel is put on the fishing line, to which the feeder will be attached in the future. Then a side loop is knitted about 15 centimeters long. Moreover, it is necessary to make sure that the swivel is inside the loop. The free end is left 25-30 centimeters long.

Gardner loop - modification of the paternoster (diagram)

The bottom equipment of this type allows you to increase the sensitivity of the gear and reduce the number of overlaps during casting.

We take a separate piece of fishing line (preferably fluorocarbon for rigidity) about 80 centimeters long, fold it in half. We pass one end into the swivel. At a distance of 10 centimeters from each edge, we knit knots. Along the edges, we will have loops of 10 centimeters each, and in the center there will be a 20-centimeter loop with a swivel inside.

Symmetric loop - convenient when casting and does not interfere with the bite

Experienced anglers make these small twist loops. A leash will be attached to one of them, the main line will be attached to the other. After casting and pulling up, the container will be close to the nozzle. When hooking, the fish will have 20 centimeters until it feels the resistance of the load.

Installation of such equipment is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but if you practice, it is quite achievable. The central loop is also knitted here, but it should have an irregular shape.

Asymmetric loop allows you to separate the leash and the feeder at a safe distance

Overlaps in this version are minimized, and the sensitivity has increased even more, especially in the current.

Summing up, we note that fishing with a feeder can bring a lot of joy and pleasure to the angler. Such tackle is easy to complete, even in the budget version. The main thing is to choose the type of container acceptable for the reservoir and choose the right bait.

Important components of feeder rigs and their properties

Main line. In the installation of a feeder rod, monofilament fishing line is used. We recommend paying attention to the following brands: Mikado Sensei Feeder, Trabucco T-Force feeder, Shimano Technium.

Monofilament diameter 0.2-0.24.

Price: 180 rubles.

Price: 350 rubles.
Shimano Technium.
Price: 1150 rubles.

We do not recommend brands Salmo, Colmic, Gamakatsu, Owner, Suffix due to their lack of rigidity. In feeder fishing, it is very important that the line does not stretch. This allows the tackle to remain sensitive to bites and to take on the tip of the rod even the smallest touches of the fish.

Attention! Why don't we use braided line?

The fact is that feeder fishing is associated with constant rubbing of the fishing line on the bottom of the reservoir. The braided line is subject to rapid abrasion, while the monofilament, on the contrary, practically does not deform upon contact with gravel, stones and snags.

Nevertheless, high-quality braided line is used in competitive fishing. If you want, we recommend Pontoon 21 Extreama 0.14-0.16 mm. Price: 1050 rubles. for 100 m.

Fluorocarbon leashes. The hook is knitted to fluorocarbon (fluorocarbon) line, for two reasons:

Such a fishing line is almost invisible in the water and does not scare the fish.
It has increased rigidity, and this reduces the entanglement of the tooling. The length of the leads, depending on the rig, is 10-100 cm. For example, in the Method rig it is 10 cm, and in the Helicopter and two knots it is 100 cm.

Best models: Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon and Owner Broad Game Pro 0.1-0.31mm.

Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon.
Price: 655 rubles. OwnerBroad. Price: 330 rubles.

On sale there are ready-made leads Owner RL 340 (thin hooks for bream), RL 330 (yellow hooks for corn), RL 044 (dark hooks for worms). The choice for those who do not want to crochet a leash and make a loop to the snap themselves.

Lead thickness. For a hooked leader use 0.1-0.2 mm depending on the weight of the intended fish. Up to 1 kg of prey, 0.1 mm of fluorocarbon is enough for you. The Running Feeder Rig and some other feeder rigs use 0.3mm tough, hard fluorocarbon line guide.

Swivel with carabiner. It is important to choose a swivel commensurate with the feeder, especially when using non-branded models. We recommend that when using a feeder over 60 g, take the Owner swivel No. 14, and when fishing in still water on a small feeder - No. 12.

Important! Use a swivel only in black or dark colors, but by no means golden. Bright rigging can scare away fish.

Crimp tube. Optional item, but can be used to make some rigs that use thick monofilament line. The crimp tube helps to secure the hook on the fishing line without using knots at all. Nevertheless, we advise beginners to study the basic knots and use them first.

feeder. In total, 7 types of load-feeders are used in feeder gear, differing in their design. Key parameters to pay attention to:

Feeder shape. Round and spiral are suitable for fishing in still water and in the absence or very weak current. Square and flat feeders are ideal for fishing in the current, as their shape does not allow the current to move the feeder.
The weight. Feeders up to 30 g are ideal for fishing in still water and at the same time you can cast such a load with a feeder rod at 50-80 m quite easily. For fishing in the current, use heavier feeders. Weight depends on the strength of the current and the depth of fishing. For example, in the Volga region on the Volga, feeders of 120 g of square shape are used.
The presence of spikes. Again, when fishing in the current, use feeder feeders with spikes.
The shape and location of the sinker. It is important for the quality of self-securing feeder equipment. The more massive the side of the sinker close to the hook, the harder it will be for the fish to move it, therefore the quality of the hook increases.
Closed or open types.
Closed the feeder is designed for small and easily sprayed feed in the water. The most popular spring and animal bait feeder.
open- with a sharp pull, it is easily released from the bait, pouring it out in the right place. Varieties: cylindrical, rectangular, “curlers”, container, “Method” (Method), with spikes and a bullet feeder that flies well.

Restrictive stopper. The element is important to protect the nodes from the heavy elements of our rigs. Use hard rubber stoppers, soft plastic is a little worse, and it is much worse to use beads as a stopper because of their hardness. Sooner or later they will damage the knot.

Tube anti-twist. It will come in handy in a snap with the same name (the second name is “rocker arm” or “anti-twist tube”). Serves to divert the fishing line with a leash to the side, which reduces the number of tangles in the equipment. They are used in the current and extremely rarely in still water due to the massiveness of the element.

Anti-twist tube and bead stopper

Hooks. Choose sharp and strong hooks that will not straighten or break. Editor's Choice - Owner. The standard size for the feeder is No. 6-8. But for catching medium and small fish, they are used up to No. 16 (roach, bream, silver bream), and when catching bleak on floating equipment - No. 20.

There are other elements, but they are used less often and we will talk about them later.

Do-it-yourself feeder installations (photo + video instructions)

Most of the feeder rigs, which we will discuss below, cannot be bought assembled in a store, so you need to be able to knit them yourself.

All feeder installations can be made in no longer than 5 minutes. Be sure to watch the video under each type of rig.

Alexey Fadeev, world champion in feeder fishing
Vladimir Nikolaev, author of a popular Youtube channel about carp fishing and the secrets of carp fishing.

Paternoster

To tie the feeder equipment paternoster we need:

The main fishing line (right on it we will knit the feeder equipment).
Swivel with clasp (carbine).
Cargo feeder.
Fluorocarbon fishing line (1 m).
Hook number 8 according to international numbering.

This feeder equipment diagram and all subsequent ones show the dimensions of the elements. Check out the specific wood companies at the beginning of the article.

Step-by-step instruction:

Watch a step-by-step video tutorial on knitting a paternoster for beginner anglers from Alexei Fadeev, the world champion in feeder fishing.

Running Feeder Rig

The swivel ring is compressed with pliers to act as a stopper on the knot

Feeder equipment Running feeder rig is a sports rig and differs from non-sports ones in that if the fish tackle breaks, the feeder will remain at the bottom, and the fish will remain only with a hook, which guarantees a minimum of damage and a greater chance of survival. Works Running Feeder Rig on both monofilament and braided lines. But we recommend using braid. Used by anglers-athletes in competitions.

Helicopter and two nodes

Helicopter feeder equipment and two knots are used for catching fish from the bottom and in the middle layers of water. It shows itself especially well in the course when catching roach, scavenger and bream, white bream in conditions of active biting.

Mount on the main line.

At the end of the fishing line, measure 30 cm and fold in half
On the resulting folded section, measure 10 cm and tie the “Eight” knot.
Measure a distance of 2 cm from the connected knot and make another figure-eight knot. It will not be easy to connect due to the proximity of two nodes, but it is quite doable. We get a loop and 2 knots.
Cut off the excess piece with scissors.
We pass the feeder through the swivel into the loop. We fasten the swivel using the cape (noose).
On a fluorocarbon fishing line, measure 1 m, cut.
Make a loop at one end of the fluorocarbon (preferably a figure-eight knot).
Now we need to connect the rig to the fluorocarbon leader. Pass the loop inside the 2 cm gap formed from the two knots in step #3. Then slide the free tip of the fluorocarbon into the loop of the leash and tighten. Thus, we fastened the snap and leash with the noose methods.

Helicopter and two knot feeder rigs are very sensitive to bites as the bait is almost in direct tension with the main line going to the tip of your feeder rod.

asymmetrical loop

Feeder equipment “Asymmetrical (asymmetric) loop” is knitted both on the main fishing line and on a separate piece of fishing line.

You can knit both on a fishing trip and before fishing (make a removable installation). We will need Owner fluorocarbon line. Line diameter - 0.28-0.31 mm.

Fluorocarbon has a high rigidity, which is extremely important when creating rigs. All knots must be rigid. This will improve the sensitivity of bites and their implementation. Also, fluorocarbon (in other words, fluorocarbon) is practically invisible in the water, which allows you to hide the equipment from the fish. Well, and most importantly, fluorocarbon is not so much injured on a rough bottom with shell rock, driftwood and other debris in the water, so it is ideal for mounting.

Step-by-step instruction

Measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the end of the fishing line
Form a loop (fold the fishing line in half). Tie a figure eight knot.
Next, form the twist. These are two interlaced pieces of fishing line. It is most convenient to simply take the loop in your teeth, very carefully, without injuring the fishing line, and start twisting the two ends of the fishing line clockwise or counterclockwise until you get a rigid twist 15 cm long.
In the place where weaving ends, pinch with your fingers and form another “Eight” knot. It is done like this: The upper segment is superimposed on the lower one. At the intersection point, you pinch this place with your fingers and then turn the resulting loop away from you and draw the resulting loop window into your twist. Hold the place of fixation without releasing your fingers and tighten (be sure to moisten).
The second part of the snap: Loop. The rig is called asymmetrical. One part of the loop will be longer than the other. We take a swivel with a clasp, for example, Owner No. 12 due to the fact that it is versatile and very durable. Insert a piece of fishing line inside the swivel. Bring it to a knot. Next, fold two strings.
Now we need to create asymmetry of the equipment, make one piece of fishing line longer. Namely, the one on which the swivel with a clasp is fixed. To do this, we fold the line in half and pull on the swivel, releasing the lower part of the line. You can make this distance 1 or 2 cm.
Measure a distance of 10 to 15 cm from the knot. In this place, we fix the fishing line with our fingers.
Now fix the snap with the same “Eight” knot.
An unnecessary piece of fluorocarbon is cut off closer to the knot.
The third element of the equipment - the section will be fixed with the main line (if you are not making the equipment on the main line. Fold the section in half, form a small loop and fix it with the “Eight” knot. Cut the remaining section of the line to the very knot.
Tie a working fluorocarbon leash 0.24 cm thick to the loop of the twist using the Loop to Loop method.

Important!

When assembled, the twist should end 2 cm below the feeder. This rule must be observed so that the equipment does not get confused during casts and during reeling, when you recast the feeder tackle. If the twist ends at the level with the feeder, then there is a high probability of entanglement.

Observe the correct asymmetry. Do not make the overhang too large (more than 2 cm). In this form, it will lose its main concept. With a large overhang, the effect of hiding the bite occurs. If the fish is cautious, it will try the rig and you will not see a bite. Neat crucian carp will eat the bait, and you won't know it. Make the overhang no more than 2 cm!

If using fluorocarbon line for twists, do not use thicker than 0.3mm. Otherwise, it will look too rough in the water.

Three important qualities of a rig asymmetrical loop

The asymmetrical loop is the only rig that is immune to negative factors:

heavy rain shakes the tip of the rod, transmits vibration to the bait;
strong wind;
angler's mistakes, excessive touching of the rod blank.

When fishing with an asymmetrical loop, bait and bait lie in place, regardless of external influences on the feeder tackle: the tip of the rod, fishing line. This is very important when catching trophy fish (carp, bream, ide and carp, carp and grass carp, etc.).

Self-cutting equipment. This is unsportsmanlike, but thanks to the loop, when taking the bait into the mouth, the fish does not feel the resistance of the feeder. The hook penetrates deep into the mouth and after a second or two, the fish, moving from the place of fishing, is detected under the action of the gravity of the feeder.

Rig asymmetrical loop can be used repeatedly if it is not damaged during fishing. Before fishing, prepare 7-10 pieces so that when the gear breaks, you can quickly change the installation and continue fishing.

Symmetrical loop

We will need:

Fluorocarbon Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon. Diameter: 0.28-0.31mm.
Swivels with clasps Owner No. 12-14.

We will make removable equipment so that you can make 5 or more pieces before fishing, and during fishing, change or replace one with another if necessary. It is convenient to store equipment on a float reel or in another special container.

The symmetrical loop is similar to the Running Rig, but the difference is that the latter is a sliding and non-hooking rig, it is formed only when fishing on the main line. A symmetrical loop is a self-securing snap.

Step-by-step instruction:

We reel off 30 cm of fluorocarbon fishing line.
We fold it in half and knit the loop with the “Eight” knot.
Next, we form a twist 10 cm long.
We fix with the same node.
We string a swivel onto one of the free ends of the fishing line and bring it to the knot.
We measure a distance of 15 cm from the knot and knit another “Eight” knot. The course of the feeder can be more, up to 40 cm.
Cut off the extra piece of string.
We attach a feeder load-feeder to the swivel.
From the free end of the fishing line 20 cm from the knot, we make another loop with a figure-eight knot. We will need it to attach the main fishing line using the “loop to loop” method.

Important! The length of the roll should be below the bottom of the feeder to avoid tangles.

How does it work?

The feeder falls to the bottom. The fish finds the bait and starts moving to the side. It makes a jerk and due to the fact that there is a rigid fixation of the swivel and the feeder - the fish cuts itself under the weight of the feeder. Due to the symmetry, we have a very fast bite signal than in a non-symmetrical loop rig.

This equipment is used for catching small and medium fish (medium-sized crucian carp, roach, bream) at the moments of active biting. It shows itself well on rivers, lakes and ponds, where there is a muddy muddy bottom, and even better a dense hard surface.

The main advantages of an asymmetrical loop:

self-cutting fish;
sensitive to bite;
it can be used many, many times.

flat method

flat method- carp feeder equipment, which is based on a feeder with a flat sinker. The uniqueness of the feeder is that it sinks down with a sinker, thanks to which the bait that is hidden in the upper part of the feeder is always open and available to fish.

Ideal for fishing in muddy and dark peat waters when fishing for crucian carp, carp and bream of all sizes, including trophy specimens up to 10 kg.

Varieties:

Classic flat mounted on the main line, lightweight and suitable for feeder fishing.
Carp flat method. Elements of carp equipment are used (, leadcore, larger flat-method feeders).

How to make a classic flat method

Necessary:

Flat method feeder (mini-flat from 15 g, heavy up to 100 g). They come with a classic swivel.
Mold is a special device for loading bait into a flat method feeder. Usually comes with a feeder. But you can also buy separately.
Monofilament fishing line 0.25-0.30 mm. A very important advantage over braid is that it stretches. This allows you to extinguish strong jerks of large fish.

Instruction:

The main fishing line is threaded into the cone of the “Method” feeder in its narrow part.
Next, we put the fishing line into the feeder. We get the Inline system when the fishing line passes through the feeders. There are also other types of systems.
Next, at the tip of the fishing line we knit a small loop with a figure-eight knot, do not forget to moisten. Cut off the excess line.
We put the loop into the special feeder connector, it looks like a small hollow cylinder. It will block the swivel, which we will now tie.
We attach the swivel to the loop with a noose.
We put the connector on a swivel.
And now we pass this connector into the method feeder. The swivel is tightly fixed in the body of the feeder.
The cone that we put on the fishing line in the first step is put on the method feeder. Now the feeder is deafly fixed in the equipment.
The thickness of the leash is 0.16-0.20, do not be afraid to use such a thick line, because it will hardly be visible, the bait will be hidden inside the feeder. Hooks No. 4 according to international numbering only when fishing with a large nozzle in the form of several corn grains. Use a #6 or #8 hook much more often. Leash length 15 cm, no longer needed.
Leash attachment. Make a loop on the leash to secure it to the swivel using the loop-in-loop method. That's all. You can make such a snap in 3-5 minutes.

How to load bait into the “Method” feeder?

Bait should be a special “method consistency”, more viscous.

We bait a grain of corn on a hook. It is necessary to thread through the corn from the narrow side leading to the side so that the sting of the hook sticks out on the side of the nozzle. Such fastening is much more reliable than fastening through the wide part of the corn (because it is less dense).
We put the bait (nozzle) inside the mold. Usually it has a special recess for it.
Next, we pour bait into it - a little with a slide, but not a rammer.
We lower the feeder into the covered mold in such a way that the fishing line between the bait and the feeder does not fall into the bait, but simply hangs outside it.
Press with both hands. Strong enough. It is important that the bait is very tightly fixed in the frame of the feeder.
We take out the feeder from the mold.

How does it work?

Feeder equipment with a flat-method feeder does not lose feed after casting and contact with water. Having reached the bottom, she lands on a flat sinker, leaving food with bait at the top. The food slowly dissolves, and the fish feel it. Swimming - bream, carp or crucian begin to eat bait, among which lies an appetizing grain of corn with a taste of chewing gum. The fish sucks in the bait, and when trying to leave the place of feeding, it is detected under the weight of the feeder.

Popular nozzles: Bloodworm, maggot, worm, canned corn, granules and.

How to make a hair montage?

Hair montages with ring and cambric. Do not use long shank hooks. Implementation of bites will be lower.

Owner Eseama 14-16 hooks are very good with hair rigging and 8-10 without it. These hooks have an inwardly curved point, which increases the chance of successfully hooking a fish.

The size of the boilies is 10 mm.

Hair rigs are made for hunting trophy fish. Hair - a branch of fishing line or leader material on which the bait is mounted, and the hook is located next to the hair and the bait, without direct contact.

The advantage of a hair rig is more confident bites. When sucking the bait, the fish does not feel the weight of the hook. The hook easily slips into the mouth of the fish and, when hooking, it is sure to be caught on the lip.

Volos is effective when fishing for bottom fish - crucian carp, carp, carp, barbel and bream, but it is less often used when fishing with feeder equipment, the best option is a flat method feeder.

We will need:

Fluorocarbon line 0.2 mm
Hooks #6-8
cambric
Boilie needle

Instruction:

On fluorocarbon we knit a loop with a diameter of 3-5 mm with a figure-eight knot or a regular knot.
We measure the length of the leash at 50 cm, cut it off.
On the free end of the leash we string 2-3 pieces of silicone tube (cambric) 5 mm long.
We take a hook with a slightly elongated sting and draw this sting inside the silicone tubes, starting with the last one we put on the leash.
We start the free end of the fishing line from the outside of the hook. So that in the final version of the equipment, the fishing line comes out of the hook from the inside (from the side of the sting). This is important to increase the chance of a correct fish hook.
We make 6 turns around the shank of the hook and once again draw it through the ring in the same direction. It turned out to be a nodeless connection.

Baiting a boilie on a hair montage

We pierce the boilie in the center with a special needle for boilies.
There is a hook at the tip of the needle, hook the tip of your hair rig onto it and bring the needle back through the boilie.
Secure the boilie to the hair with a stopper. The color of the stopper should be close to the color of the boilie.

Feeder equipment with anti-twist

The anti-twist feeder rig is a classic and one of the first rigs to be used when fishing on muddy bottoms and hard ground.

We pass the main fishing line inside the anti-twist.
Next, thread a bead or rubber stopper. They will serve as protection for the swivel, which will be fixed further from the massive anti-twist. The rubber stopper softens blows better, so we advise you to use it.
We tie a swivel to the end of the fishing line with a “clinch” knot. Be sure to wet the knot to avoid burning the line.
We fasten the feeder to the clasp (carbine) of the anti-twist.
We make a harness. We measure 50 cm of fluorocarbon fishing line. We form a loop at one of the ends and use the loop-in-loop method to attach it to the swivel of our equipment with an anti-twist.
Tie a hook to the free end of the leash.

In the current installation, you can use a rubber shock absorber, which will allow the fish to swallow the bait even deeper, and then, when the rubber tension limit is over, a notch will occur.

All structural elements of this rig are attached in exactly the same way as in the installation with an anti-twist, except for the feeder. Make a 10 cm long piece of fishing line twisted from two lines between the anti-twist and the feeder. This will allow you to raise the tube and equipment along with it a little higher above the bottom. It turns out a kind of symbiosis with the “Helicopter and two knots” equipment.

Use a longer leader and light baits in this variation so that the bait falls to the bottom as long as possible when the feeder falls to the bottom. This will definitely provoke active fish to bite.

Floating feeder equipment

The floating feeder rig is ideal for catching surface fish such as sabrefish, bleak and rudd.

The structurally floating feeder equipment is a copy of the “symmetrical loop” installation, with the exception of 2 nuances:

The feeder is used as a Floating Feeder, that is, floating. At its base lies not only a sinker, but also cork material, which allows you to throw equipment far enough, and when touched with water, remain on the surface. Feeding occurs by the spread of a cloud of turbidity in the water.
The leash can be made a little shorter.

The length of a symmetrical loop for successful self-notching is 7 cm, no more.

Use smaller hooks comparable to the size of the fish's mouth. When hunting rudd or sabrefish - No. 16 according to the Owner classification. For bleak 18-22.

Do-it-yourself carp rigging

Superficially, we have already touched on the topic of cyprinids. Now let's dwell on them in more detail.

Carp mounting “Safe clip”

Safety clip(safety clips) - an element that attaches the sinker to the fishing line, contributing to the easy release of the fish from the sinker when the main cord breaks.

This rig has an advantage over other rigs when fishing in snags, as the weight is secured in a secure clip, which guarantees release under strong tension.

We will need:

Leadcore (thickness 45 lb). This element has a braid and a lead core. It plays the role of weighting the equipment at the bottom so that the fishing line does not hang in the water column and does not frighten the fish. The second role of the leadcore is a safer material for the fish to play. The carp will not get scratched by sudden maneuvers because the material is soft and thick.
Mounting needle for leadcore.
Quick release with swivel.
Safety clip (Safety Clips, with a deaf snap-in or sliding) - plastic or metal. The disadvantage of plastic is that it breaks during power casts. There are also metal options on sale, try it.

Instruction:

We fix the leadcore in the needle. To do this, pull out a core about 3 cm long from it and bite it off with tongs. Return the braid to its original place and bend the leadcore in the place where it ended the core. At the fold, pierce the leadcore with a needle for it and pull it out after 2 cm towards the tip.
We put a swivel on the tip of the leadcore, and then we hook the needle on this very tip and begin to turn the tip of the leadcore inward with slow rotational movements to the right and left - forming a loop.
Cut off the extra piece of the tail, leaving a little more than 1 mm. We pull very hard. The stronger you pull, the stronger the braids will be fixed to each other and will not unwind in any way.
We put a drop of Moment Pro glue in the place where the leadcore shell went inside for an additional guarantee of strength.
The length of the leadcore will be 60 cm. Do the same operation from steps 1 to 4 on the other side. And yes, the presence of leadcore makes carp rigs very different from classic feeder rigs.
We insert the needle into the clip from the side where we will have a cone, fasten the leadcore into the needle and pull through the clip to the very end.
The clip is put on the swivel on the other side of the leadcore. It is important to fix the swivel in the clip using a small plastic quick release, this is part of the clip itself.
Step number 7 is also done with a cone for the clip.
We put the sinker on the clip and fix it with a cone.

Carp equipment Inline (Inline)

There are many types of Inline rig manufacturing described on the Internet, and most of them are structurally similar to the Running Feeder Rig. But historically, Inline is a carp rig for carp fishing (waiting) fishing, not feeder fishing. In carp fishing, the feeder tip is not used as a bite signaling device, but the bite is recognized by an electronic signaling device. When the fishing line is etched from the reel, the signaling device emits a sound. Naturally, this is a sliding equipment, which means sports.

Inline is suitable for fishing on a rocky hard bottom, on a shell rock. Unsuitable for fishing in snags, as the sinker does not shoot back with strong tension. On a muddy bottom is also bad.

Feeder installation Inline is very good in self-cutting carp and carp due to the drop-shaped sinker. The part of the sinker close to the leash has a thickening, which gives much more resistance to lifting from the bottom. Consequently, the hooking with a sinker is sharper.

You will need:

Inline loads
Leadcore (with or without core) length 60 cm
Fine needle for leadcore
Large broaching needle
Scissors and glue
swivel

Instruction:

We form a loop at one of the ends of the leadcore (we use the leadcore without a core). We drip glue to fix the loop.
We fasten the swivel using the “loop to loop” method.
We insert the mounting needle into the Inline sinker from the side of the connector tube (narrow part), attach the free tip of the leadcore to the needle. We tighten the swivel inside the sinker, sipping on the free tip of the leadcore.
A leash is attached to the swivel using the loop-in-loop method or another reliable knot.

Rig improvements

Feeder Gum, Power Gum

Fidergam extinguishes sharp jerks of fish. This is a piece of rubber between the feeder rig and very thin fluorocarbon leaders (for example, 0.1 mm).

Feeder rubber is important for creating a shock-absorbing effect in the rig. this is especially important when using the main cord - braids. Length - 10-12 cm, thickness 0.6-0.8. Feeder Gum provides delicate play with very thin line (0.1 mm).

Mounting:

Pull the feedergam. When tightening the knot, it will take its original state and give the knot greater strength.
Make loops on the feedergum with a figure-eight knot on both sides of the elastic band.
The feedergam will be an intermediate link between any of the rigs and a fluorocarbon leader. Everything is fastened using the “Loop to loop” method.

Important:

Don't make the feeders long. Up to 15 cm is ideal. 30 cm is too much. The longer the rubber, the more the equipment is confused and the less the sensitivity of the equipment.
Do not use colored rubber bands. Get transparent. It doesn't scare the fish.
Do not glue knots of gum. It corrodes fidergam.
Lighten your feeder rigs. Do not use swivels when attaching swivels. Only by the loop-in-loop method. This will reduce weight, reduce the amount of debris that can be hooked from the bottom with unnecessary elements in the installation.

Asymmetrical loop + feedergam = the best combination.

Snap protection

In order to protect the equipment from hooks on snags, falling through stones - reduce the thickness of the fishing line on which the weight-feeder is attached. When hooked, you will lose the feeder, but if there was a fish on the hook, you will fish it out.

Applicable in snap-ins:

Paternoster and Gardner's loop.
Helicopter and two knots, if you knit a large loop on a thinner fishing line.

On Inline, Method rigs, use a safety clip. Caught - she will unfasten.

Take action!

Equip your feeder rod with a stiff, non-stretch monofilament line, such as Mikado Sensei Feeder 0.24 mm 150 m. This will increase the number of bites.
Decide on the conditions of fishing. Let's say we we want to catch bream on the Volga. This river usually has current and hard bottom, so we will use the feeder rig Helicopter and two nodes. Collect it directly on the main line according to our instructions from this article. This will take no more than 10 minutes.
Since fishing takes place in the current, at great depths and at a distance of at least 50 m from the shore, one should choose a feeder weighing from 80 to 120 g. Choose a form square type with spikes so that the feeder does not slide along the bottom.
Tie to feeder snap fluorocarbon leash 0.3 mm thick and 1 m long. At the end - hook number 8 by international numbering. The bream does not have a very large mouth, so medium-sized hooks should be used.
Use as bait bunch of maggots. The bream is very fond of bundles of 5 or more pieces.
The bait must contain sweet ingredients (vanillin, chewing gum taste, cake).
After catching a fish, optionally a bream, please tell us about your experience here in the comments below the article. Thanks for reading!

The most frequent bites for catching perch I took place on this gear. The striped robber was attracted by the entire equipment.

Through trials and tests, I found for myself the most catchy equipment for perch at the moment in the autumn-spring period.

In essence, the perch bites on everything - that's why it is interesting for the fisherman. Such a responsive predator without any sophisticated gear and without any experience can be caught all seasons.

Catchable budget tackle for perch fishing in spring and autumn

But this tackle catches perch more successfully - it grabs the bait much faster and more willingly than others.

We will need:

main line,
A leash with a diameter smaller than the main one,
Pair of hooks
pellet sinker,
Olive - sliding sinker,
Pair of styrofoam balls
Swivel.

How to make catchy gear for perch with your own hands:

We hang an olive sinker on the main fishing line. We tie the end of this fishing line to the swivel.
Next, we need a leash 0.8-1.2 meters long. We attach it to the swivel on the main line.
Next, we hook a hook with a pair of foam balls on the leash. For the point of attack, I paint these balls in red and black.
Then, below this hook to the leash, I crimp the sinker of the pellet. From the edge of the leash, a distance of 20 centimeters.
At the very end of the leash we hang another empty hook.

Fishing tactics for perch

Additionally, to attract the "sailors", I tied a red woolen thread to each hook.

I planted a worm or bloodworm on each hook (can be combined).

I cast the line and wait for all the tackle to sink to the bottom. Then a calm, not sharp jig.

The tackle is dragged along the bottom, while the hook with foam balls will pop up and will always be at some distance from the bottom.

Most often, the bite falls on the pop-up hook with balls. This bait seems to attract more perch.

Try to be sure to catch perch with such a catchy tackle.

Today our story will be devoted to the manufacture of bottom gear. Many experienced anglers can tie the right rig with their eyes closed. For those who only know all the subtleties of bottom fishing, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with this material.

Non-sporting bottom mounts with feeder

In the end, we will talk about two more types of tackle:

"spring-nipple";
"Makushatnik";

These rigs are not sports rigs, but are nevertheless used by many anglers. I would like to make a reservation right away that they are no better than the first three rigs and do not win in catchability. They are aimed at fishing with coarse gear, for example, on. Although in the article about this donk, we advise you to use exactly the first 3 snaps on this page. It will be sportier and more efficient.

"Spring-nipple"

The principle of the nipple is based on the fact that the fish simply eats the bait in the feeder and swallows the hook hidden in it along the way.

It is easy to make this type of tackle, we will need:

A feeder in the form of a spring, or a cork from a plastic bottle from which a nipple is made ().
2-4 hooks.
Fishing line "braided" for leashes.

The process of making a teat based on a spring feeder:

We take a spring feeder and fasten it to the main fishing line, stop it with a rubber stopper, a bead, or, in extreme cases, a lead shot.
Along the circumference of the entire spring, we fasten at an equal distance from each other braided leashes 6-7 centimeters long with hooks.
We advise you to put bait on hooks, which ones you can see in the manuals for crucian carp, carp, bream, roach. But some anglers equip hooks with foam balls.

Non-sport equipment is ready. Read more about catching carp with a spring nipple.

The simplest, but according to some anglers, catchy and crucian carp is not sports and is a less effective analogue of the Method feeder

For the manufacture we need:

sinker "horseshoe" or "dovetail";
clasp for leashes, swivel, bead;
a pair of hooks;
fishing line 0.4 - 0.6 mm;

Manufacturing instructions:

We take a fishing line and put a sinker on it, tie a knot.
After 5-15 centimeters we put a bead for the stopper.
At the end of the fishing line we attach a swivel to connect with the main fishing line.
We make a hole in the center in a piece of cake and thread a fishing line with a knot into it.
We attach a clasp with leashes to the tip.
We stick hooks on the sides into a piece of cake.

As a rule, when it comes to the presentation of baits, and more precisely, about the leashes that we make for bottom carp fishing, many anglers (regardless of their professional level) have the same problem “on the tongue”. That is, at some “wonderful” moment, we suddenly (for ourselves) understand that, after all, we do not get a 100% result from knitting our carp rigs.

And then we justify our failures - either by an illiterate / chosen place for fishing, or by “not catchy” weather, or by fishing pressure, or by other “excuses”. In general, by hook or by crook, we try to deny our helplessness in creating such a rig that is guaranteed to catch carp! And all this is happening against the backdrop of what already exists in the world - just a huge range of products for carp fishing and the widest selection of all kinds of "chips" and "novelties" for fishing.

Naturally, having carefully read many books and articles (from eminent carp anglers), in search of the best equipment for carp fishing, we find “something”! After that, we assure ourselves that this particular equipment is the best (for our situation on the lake). But then - with our own brains we completely refute this information, after the very first carp session!

So, starting from scratch or returning to the simplest rigs is the best way to competently master the intricacies of creating leads (for carp fishing). Only by properly studying and successfully putting into practice the simplest leashes a hundred times, you will be able to understand for what situations on the pond you need to tie more complex carp rigs (or use more complex leashes), and how to do it right! In this case, it is not necessary - even to try to jump "above the navel."

Personally, I think that modern carp anglers are overly spoiled with too wide a range of carp rigs. And even more precisely - a huge selection of all kinds of "small things" presented on the windows of fishing shops. For example, today you can easily find hooks - in fact, of any size and shape, or you can purchase leader materials of any structure and degree of rigidity. Moreover, there are many swivels on the shelves - with enlarged rings, models for quick replacement of the leash, etc. In general, today we can purchase - almost everything that is needed to create carp equipment for any situation on the reservoir!

However, with such a wide choice - it is very easy to make a mistake, for example, using at the same time - completely incompatible things. As a rule, after we cannot resist the temptation to "shove" somewhere a new product, bought recently, after its chic advertising in many magazines. I am completely sure that if all beginner carp anglers during the first 2 months of fishing did not “get smart”, but bought a couple of hooks (of the same variety), and also acquired only one type of leader material, they would have caught a lot more carps. And also normally (and much faster) mastered all the basics of carp fishing!

The most simple without/knotted "design" of hair mounting contains almost all the mechanical principles of operation and "spotting ability" of rigs that every carp angler needs to know!

hair rigging

What is the most important meaning of a hair rig? It is in attaching the nozzle to the hook in such a “cunning” way that the sting of the latter does not close, and the bait itself has the opportunity to move naturally and freely. When carps suck up our baits, by the way, in the same way as any other types of food, then, having barely felt the “resistance” of the sinker, they try to get rid of potentially dangerous food, i.e. actually spit it out instantly. And, just the same, it is at this moment that the sting of the hook is “spotted” in the lower lip of the fish. That is, in fact, the carp “self-detects” - both under the weight of our sinker, and under the weight of the bait directly below the hook, and also due to the “spitting force”.

If the notch was bad, it could mean that the "hair" was too short and the carp was not able to "suck" the bait deep enough before spitting it out sharply (and powerfully). Continuous observations of the place / position of the hook in the lip of the carp will help you analyze the situation normally and choose the most optimal length of the “hair”. The ideal place/position of the hook in the carp's mouth is generally considered to be the central part of the lower lip (approximately half an inch deep). Depending on the nature of the reservoir, the features of the bottom topography, the specifics of the food supply, as well as some of the nuances of the feeding behavior of carp (on a specific / taken lake), the length of your “hair” should be selected. That is, taking into account all these important factors.

carp hooks

Also, be sure to note that each rig has its own hooks. Most modern carp hooks are special models, usually designed for strict/certain situations or for any specific carp rigs. The design of making hooks for carp fishing can differ in many characteristics, the main of which are the so-called “total forearm length” (the distance from the eye to the bottom point of the hook); the “width of the undergarment” (i.e. the lower “bend” of the hook) and the thickness of the material (from which the hook is made). Of course, thinner hooks are designed for catching “ordinary” fish in the simplest waters, and thick (and super / durable) - for fighting trophy fish, in more complex ponds and lakes (i.e. with snags, algae and other underwater obstacles).

What is the main task of a carp hook? In fact, it consists in the fact that at the very moment the fish is spitting out (our bait), it instantly turns around with the sting down and immediately digs into the lower lip. Judging by personal practice, they unfold perfectly and securely hook in the lip of a carp - these are the hooks that have a short forend and more rounded shapes (the so-called “curved style” of manufacture). Personally, I would advise beginners to start their journey in carp fishing with just such hook models. The best option is the relatively new SSBP Armapoint series from the purely “carp” company FOX.

Lead materials

And finally, the last important element for creating a catchy carp rig is a leader, for the manufacture of which you can use leader materials produced in 3 main varieties: soft braided (without sheath), soft braided (sheathed / braided) and hard (nylon or fluorocarbon). Naturally, not taking into account the "fancy" combined manufacturing options (for more sophisticated carp anglers).

Sufficiently stiff nylon is able to work just as well as soft braid, while, in fact, in the same carp rigs. Using soft braided materials (sheathed / braided), you can always “remove” the abrasion / resistant coating, and in the end you get a soft section that provides normal movement of the bait against the background of the remaining (harder) part of the entire leash. I assure you that in some situations - this must be done! Since carps can feel both the resistance of a hard leash and the “weight” of the sinker, they have not yet completely “sucked” the nozzle.

Some anglers pay too little attention to the length of the leader. And it's in vain! Since it is this "characteristic" that greatly affects the "spotting ability" of the entire equipment, as a whole.

Too long leashes lead to insufficient resistance of the “classic” sinker (weighing 3 ounces), thereby giving the fish the opportunity to get rid of the hook without any problems. As soon as they feel the prick of the hook, the carps begin to turn their heads strongly, and this leads to the fact that the place of the lip puncture increases significantly, because of which the hook falls out. In turn, a short leader is able to provide direct contact between the hook and the lead (with virtually instantaneous resistance of its 3-ounce weight). By itself, lengthening the leash will be a rational solution only in those cases when carp take baits very carefully, “checking” its natural mobility in advance. Thus, if your “weak” bites do not transform into confident “steam locomotives” for a very long time, then you should seriously think about the length of the leash. Be sure to change it and compare the new result with the previous one.

An in-depth study and a thorough understanding - these are the BASICS of creating leads and carp rigs (in general), ultimately lead to the fact that the carp begins to BELIEVE in his tackle. And this is one of the main aspects of carp fishing! Personally, in 95% of cases I am quite satisfied with the use of only 3 carp rigs: with a single bottom boilie, with a single Pop-Up and, of course, a “snowman”. All these 3 snaps are knitted from identical materials and work successfully - in fact, according to the same principle.

Practical part (step by step instructions)

1) This photo shows everything you need to make 3 types of leashes.

2) Remove 5 inches of braid (i.e. approximately 13 cm) from the leader material for rigging with a 15-16 mm bottom boilie. For the “snowman” rig, we remove the braids a little more. At the far end of the segment of "bare" material - we tie an ordinary knot.

3) With the help of a special boilie needle (I personally use a needle from FOX), we carefully put our 15 mm boilie on the “hair”.

5) At a distance of 1 inch (approximately 2.5 cm) from the boilie, we tie a micro ring (“Rig Rings Micro”).

6) After that, through this ring we thread the hook (8th number). Personally, I think that the use of micro-rings gives the bait a lot more “freedom of action”, thereby significantly improving the “spotting ability” of the entire rig.

7) Directly through the eye of the hook - we thread the “free” end of the leash, so that later we can tie the “Knotless Knot” (i.e. without / knot).

8) First, we make 6 turns around the shank of the hook, and then again we stretch the end of the leash through its eye.

9) And, in the end, we securely tighten our knot.

10) Using scissors (or other tools), cut off a piece of heat/shrink tubing (1 inch or 2.5 cm long)

11) Then, we put this segment on a leash and pull it over the resulting knot. Thanks to a piece of thermo / shrink tube - the hook (in the carp's mouth) will unfold.