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Rhizome and sucker perennials are also difficult to manage, especially if you lose control over them.
The most aggressive are cypress spurge and forest anemone, which, once brought into the site, will quickly take over all the free space, but it is impossible to weed them out; pieces of rhizomes will certainly remain in the ground.
Cypress spurge (Euphorbia cyparissias) is a long-rhizome plant that is resistant to drought, frost, and undemanding to soil fertility. This aggressor came to me from a neighbor who was very proud of the fluffy bushes she had just planted. They looked really very touching, they gave such lightness to a small flower garden. But only at first. By the end of the season, the neighbor was ready to fill her entire flower garden with Roundup, as a small bush of milkweed began to actively occupy the territory. Weeding did not help, since even a tiny piece of rhizome gave rise to a new plant. But the rhizomes of this milkweed are thin, and it is very difficult to select them without leaving any residue.
Since then, cypress spurge has been haunting my neighbor like a nightmare. But it was enough to plant the acquisition in a dug-in container or fence off the hole for it with polyethylene or a piece of roofing felt. But in this case, it is necessary to ensure that there are no loopholes in the fence through which the rhizomes could penetrate outside. Only then will the surrounding plants be safe. Don’t forget to cut the plant back by about a third as soon as flowering comes to an end. In this case, it will bloom again in August. And the jackets will be thicker. There is an opinion that in the shade this spurge behaves more modestly, forming compact green bushes. But I seriously doubt that he is able to overcome his nature.
Anemone sylvestris is a surprisingly delicate-looking plant. Not only the beautiful flowers are decorative throughout the season, but also the spectacular silver-green leaves that appear in mid-spring and die off in late autumn, unable to withstand the onslaught of frost. Each stem ends with a single large white flower, which also smells pleasant. In a word - a wonderful plant.
I really like the anemone, but not everything is simple with it. The fact is that the forest anemone, when it finds itself in good conditions, begins to actively spread, using numerous root shoots and seeds to take over the territory. It crawls in all directions, and it is very difficult to weed it out, because the rhizomes are thin as a thread and break off easily. It seems like I have weeded the area, but after a few days new leaves appear, and I have to start all over again. In addition, in July numerous seeds ripen, which, as they say, cannot complain about germination. This anemone can be somewhat pacified only if after flowering, preventing the formation of seeds, all shoots are cut to the ground.
There is another reason why I prune shoots. After flowering, they lie down, burying neighboring plants. Therefore, the best thing is to plant this anemone in places where it will not bother anyone. For example, it’s not a pity to give it a place under a tree and let it take up all the space under the crown. By the way, the decorative forms of large-flowered anemone (f. grandiflora) 30 cm high with large fragrant flowers with a diameter of more than 8 cm and double (f. flore pleno) are not so aggressive.
Simply beautiful geranium macrorrhizum (G. macrorrhizum). Its velvety green leaves smell very pleasant when touched. Some of them take on a bright crimson hue in the fall. But you can’t give it free rein either - it will grow quickly. The hard shoots adhere to the ground and create such a dense cover that this geranium even choked my geranium. Imagine what a useful plant this is for fighting the eternal weed! The only pity is that in a flower garden it can drown out its neighbors if the shoots are not cut off every year, or even several times a season. It all depends on how much area you allocate to it.
Cantabrigian geranium (G. cantabrigiense) and its variety Cambridge behave more modestly. But don't be fooled. Once the gardener relaxes, a dense carpet of this geranium will cover its nearby growing neighbors.
Plants can take over territory by releasing not only seeds or rhizomes, but also shoots. This is done, for example, by thread speedwell (Veronica filiformis).
I got it from my neighbors, whose trees formed a dense carpet under their apple trees. Seduced by its delicate blue flowers, I did not take into account that even a tiny stem, when it comes into contact with the ground, quickly takes root and gives rise to a new plant.
And Veronica filamentous suited me in all respects - unpretentious, drought-resistant, winter-hardy, grows well on poor soils in partial shade. A find, not a plant. But... Even the cuttings left on the ground after mowing took root. Small parts of the plant that stuck to the shoes were easily transferred to a new place.
They also ended up on the lawn. This became my main problem. The difficulty in dealing with veronica filamentous is that its shoots are only 3-5 cm high, so the lawn mower cannot handle it. Veronica grows quickly, its dense cushion suppresses lawn grasses and leads to their death. You can fight it only by completely removing all the turf and creating a new lawn. There is, of course, a relatively easy way - to treat everything with herbicides for dicotyledons (Lontrel). But you can do this when Veronica has just settled on the lawn, otherwise there will be large bald spots on the turf that will have to be specially healed.
Uses seeds and rhizomes and goldenrod when capturing new areas. It produces numerous seeds (there is evidence that one shoot produces more than 10 thousand seeds), which are spread by wind, water, animals and people. For example, when this plant is cut for bouquets and subsequently thrown away. The long rhizomes of goldenrod, which creep in all directions, also “work” for expansion. The plant does not care where it grows; it is unpretentious. It used to be that in the fall, bright yellow fluffy clusters of goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) swayed in almost every garden. But gradually the fashion for it passed away and only relatively recently, thanks to the emergence of new varieties, interest in this plant appeared again. True, now the garden is dominated by complex interspecific hybrids, the so-called solidago hybrida (Solidago x hybrida). The most famous:
Golden Dwarf, 50-60 cm high. Inflorescence 15-17 cm long, yellow flowers. The plant blooms in August;
Golden Mosa (Golden Mosa) 120-130 cm high. Inflorescence up to 30 cm long. The flowers are bright yellow. Blooms in August;
Goldstrahl (Goldstrahl) height 90-100 cm. Inflorescence up to 20 cm long. Flowers golden-yellow. The plant blooms in September for 35-40 days;
Kronenstrahl 120-130 cm high. Inflorescence up to 25 cm long. Golden flowers. Blooms in August;
Fruhgold 100-120 cm high. Inflorescence up to 25 cm long. Yellow flowers. It blooms in August for three decades, extending into September; Schwefelgeiser (Schwefelgeiser) up to 140 cm high. The inflorescence is 25-30 cm long. The flowers are light yellow. Blooms in August;
Spetgold up to 100 cm high. Inflorescences 15-20 cm long. Lemon yellow flowers. Blooms in August;
Dzintars (Dzintars) up to 40 in height. Inflorescences 20 cm long. The flowers are bright golden yellow. A wonderful very early variety of Baltic selection;
Patio is a compact plant up to 60 cm high with clusters of small golden flowers. Blooms profusely and continuously in July-August.
Modern varieties are less aggressive than natural species. But it’s still better to limit them in the flower garden. Plant in separate containers or “cut” the area with a piece of roofing felt, polyethylene or metal. Under these conditions, the bushes spread less, become more compact and do not oppress their neighbors. But then they need to be divided every 3-4 years. This way you will prevent the bushes from growing, but it is also important to prevent them from scattering seeds. To do this, the faded shoots, without waiting for the seeds to ripen, must be cut off, slightly dried, and burned.
Despite their aggressiveness, goldenrods are welcome guests in natural-style gardens, especially in the fall, when the inflorescences glow like numerous suns. And there are so many modern varieties and they are so diverse that you can select them according to their flowering time from August to October. You can also use species goldenrod as a screen near fences. Solidago stand well in a vase. Just don’t throw wilted flowers into the compost, as it will take you a long time to weed out the seedlings from all the beds.
It is necessary to fight goldenrod in the garden if it has grown out of place. There are several ways. The first is mechanical: mowing the plants. This needs to be done twice per season, in May and August for several years. The second method is chemical: destroy young plants with herbicides, but only until the shoots exceed 1015 cm in height. Later they become less sensitive to herbicides.
I would also like to warn those who are not afraid to let variegated meadowsweet and red-leaved wood sorrel into their flower beds.
There is probably no gardener in his right mind who would plant wild gooseberry (Aegopodium podagraria) in his flowerbed. But its cultivated variegated form (Aegopodium podagraria variegata) with pistachio-green leaves with a white border is planted by many. She's really good. In addition, it is believed that cultural borer is non-aggressive; on the contrary, it is easily forced out of plantings. But firstly, this is not so, the variegated one is, if less expansive than the wild one, then not by much. And secondly, ordinary green offspring also more often grow from the seeds of variegated dream.
How to get rid of a dream if it is, as they say, baked in? Digging up roots with a pitchfork, as many books advise, is labor-intensive and does not solve the problem once and for all. If even a piece of rhizome remains in the ground, you will have to take up the pitchfork again and again. I can recommend several methods of combating sleepiness that I have tested. If possible, cover the bushes with black material, preferably completely and for a period of two years. During this time, even small pieces of crown rhizomes will die without light. The second way is to treat the area with a large accumulation of weeds with Glyphos. In my case, Roundup was not strong enough, although it has the same active ingredient as Glyphos. If it is not possible to treat the area with herbicide, then at least destroy the leaves, and most importantly, the inflorescences of the herbicide. The constant destruction of green leaves leads to plant oppression. Of course, in this way you will not get rid of the dreaming completely, but it will not be so noticeable. The main thing is not to throw the rhizomes into the compost until you dry them in the sun. It is so tenacious that it will germinate in a compost heap. Plant the variegated tree so that it has nowhere to “run away”, and be sure to mow (or cut) after flowering, and in its entirety, so that the foliage, which by this time has begun to lose its freshness, is also renewed.
If the worst weed in my garden is the borer, then many consider the red-leafed sorrel (Oxalis corniculata) to be a true gardener's nightmare. Moreover, they bring this nightmare into their lives with their own hands, without listening to any excuses from those who have already fought with this plant.
This sorrel lures with its deceptive delicacy of appearance, beautiful cherry-brown leaves and contrasting openwork of small yellow flowers. But numerous above-ground shoots can clog up the entire garden in the blink of an eye, so if you decide to plant this sorrel in a flower garden, do not let it grow uncontrollably. Remember that if you miss it, you won’t be able to cope later. Please note: ripe plant fruits crack, shooting seeds at a distance of more than 1 m. And even further, including to neighbors, ants carry them. In a word, wherever it goes, it will grow. All that remains is to weed, weed, and weed many more times. But at the same time, do not throw weeded plants, even with unripe seeds, into compost. The seeds ripen there, and they remain viable for more than one year. Trim the plant, and quite short, several times a season, so that it does not have the slightest opportunity to set these same seeds.
At the beginning of the 20th century, people often brought seeds of “incredibly beautiful” plants from abroad, planting them in their gardens. Unfortunately, they had no idea what they were doing. Often, the new arrivals had all the cards in hand to begin the successful conquest of the new world. The absence of natural enemies often played the most important role. Below we offer you a list of the six most successful plant conquerors of new territories.
Don't let invasive species fool you. They look innocent but don't act. They also never stop growing, spreading, and reproducing. The culprits are certified species of invasive non-native vines, trees, shrubs, herbaceous plants and grasses. Some look exotic, promising to add pizazz to your landscape. Others serve purposes such as ground cover, erosion control or screening. However, along with the positives, there can be negatives—issues that every landscape designer and homeowner should understand and understand.
Mikania is a small tree native to the rainforest, most commonly known as the “purple plague of Hawaii.” In the 1960s, the plant was introduced to Hawaii and Tahiti as an ornamental species. It was a small tree with large dark green leaves decorated with purple veins. The tree bloomed with beautiful white and pink flowers, which then ripened into dark purple and black berries. But once in Tahiti, this tree grew up to 15 meters in height, becoming a real aggressor for other plants.
Very often, not only weeds, but also cultivated plants are rampant in our gardens. Some of them are called aggressors because, without proper control, they can quickly take over large areas of the garden. I will tell you about some of them that I have to fight most actively.
My worst enemy in terms of aggression is a very beautiful, delicate plant, Euphorbia cypressum.
It is a low perennial, 15 to 40 cm high, with beautiful shoots and fragrant flowers, blooming in May-June and again in autumn. It reproduces vegetatively, its roots are very long, quickly growing, brittle and almost impossible to dig up. For propagation, a tiny piece of rhizome remaining in the soil is enough. If you do not pay attention, the milkweed may end up far from its original planting site.
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My favorite is the luxurious aquilegia, a perennial plant that has many hybrid forms with simple and double flowers of a wide variety of colors, very unpretentious, and does not require special care.
Flowering lasts a long time, but after the petals fall, the flower stalks must be cut off, even though there are new buds. It is necessary to prevent the shedding of seeds, which are spread throughout the entire area and it is completely unpredictable where we will find seedlings. In this case, the decorative effect of the flowers, which we need to preserve, is completely lost and the characteristics of the original variety are not preserved at all.
Our beloved modest and gentle garden forget-me-not is also a very aggressive plant.
Having brought a tiny garden forget-me-not bush with sky-blue inflorescences and planted it in the garden, do not rush to be touched and rejoice. In the spring of next year, the first descendants of this bush will appear nearby, and after 2 years the forget-me-not will confidently take over the entire area of the garden. It will grow everywhere - in the shade, in the sun, under trees, on paths. So be careful!!!
The decorative forms of those plants that are considered classic weeds quickly become established on the site. Our vigilance is dulled by their noble origin and after a while these plants develop the bad manners of their wild relatives.
For example, the creeping tenacious creature, which lives almost everywhere except Antarctica and America. Its decorative forms were developed and we began to plant the tenacious plant as a ground cover plant.
The plant is very unpretentious, 20 cm high with beautiful flowers of white, pink and lilac-blue. But it very quickly forms numerous creeping shoots, which take root, forming daughter rosettes. We need to keep an eye on them and come out in time, otherwise they will cover our lawns with a dense carpet and will grow on them for a long time, since the ground cover of these plants does not age and does not damp out.
Recently I talked about variegated sapling, a perennial with beautiful variegated leaves.
It should not be allowed to bloom, because from its scattered seeds, unfortunately, the common harmful green weed grows, a weed that spreads across the area at the speed of a jet plane.
So, crops that have a predisposition to weeds should not be given the opportunity to reproduce. Timely, thorough weeding helps. True, it takes up a lot of my time, and I don’t use herbicides.
Therefore, those who are just starting to plant their dream garden, think about whether it is even worth planting the plants that I talked about in your garden.
Some plants are quite tricky. Some of them annoy us with an unrestrained onslaught, others irritate the skin, and still others are generally very poisonous.
Plants are not always harmless. Thus, some of them are capable of completely changing the appearance of a carefully tended flowerbed in a short time. Thanks to creeping underground shoots, they suddenly emerge where we did not expect them at all and would not like to see them. In small gardens like this aggressor plants should be avoided or kept under control.
These are, in particular: Macleya cordial(Macleaya cordata); The greyish-green leaves of Macleaia are a lovely decoration for the garden. But timid neighbors are mercilessly driven out by makleya.
Or vinegar tree(Rhus typhina). Sumac is incredibly beautiful in autumn attire. Unfortunately, it can be extremely intrusive, taking up space that was not intended for it. Be careful with sumac: any wound on the roots stimulates the formation of new shoots.
Ostrich fern(Matteucia struthiopteris). The delicate green of ferns is deceptive. Many of them, like the ostrich, have a clearly aggressive character. Interfering shoots should be cut out regularly, and some plants can simply be cut out with roots with a shovel. It is not worth giving up completely on overgrown plants. Many of them can be easily curbed. For example, if you plant such a plant in a bucket without a bottom, its underground creeping shoots will not have a chance to move to the sides.
Expanding tree species such as sumac or plants that have already occupied a fairly large area, for example, dwarf bamboo or some types of ferns, can be kept within the desired boundaries by digging a root limiter into the ground - a strip of synthetic material 2 mm thick and 70 cm high.
It can be a real disaster in the garden. hogweed, spread by seeds. Its glandular hairs secrete substances that irritate the skin and make it unusually sensitive to sunlight.
This results in burns and painful blisters. About the same thing will happen to you if you touch grayish-green leaves on sunny days. rue fragrant. The unfortunate consequence can be second degree burns. The same applies to ash tree. So immediately wash any areas of your skin that come into contact with these plants in sunlight.
In addition to “irritating” plants, there are also those that can cause severe poisoning.
Wolf's bast, or wolfberry (Daphne mezereum) sparkles in early spring with a magnificent decoration of pink-red flowers. Remember that all parts of this beautiful shrub are highly poisonous.
There are poisonous plants in almost every garden, and often people don’t even suspect it. Children should be seriously introduced to what grows in the garden as early as possible. Where children play, do not plant plants with highly poisonous seeds, such as bean (golden shower), yew, lily of the valley and castor oil - after all, it is the fruits and seeds that are most attractive to children.
Castor bean (Ricinus communis) is sometimes called the miracle tree. But the poison of just one of its seeds can be a lethal dose! Some poisons act just by touching the plant.
The strong poison of aconite penetrates the skin without even causing external damage. So this plant is definitely taboo around children. We recommend that gardeners working with aconite wear gloves.
In case of poisoning, it is important to know: never experiment with home remedies. Sometimes even those that have proven themselves can, on the contrary, increase the consequences of poisoning. Be sure to consult a doctor. This also applies to cases of skin irritation caused by substances contained in plants. And be especially attentive and careful when children play in the garden.
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