The most powerful homemade shocker. We make a cheap and simple stun gun. Special types of homemade ESA

A stun gun can be easily purchased on the Internet or in specialized stores. But the prices for these products are not encouraging. A full-size model costs an average of 10,000 rubles and more. Moreover, most of the presented samples are made in China.

There is also a cheaper option designed to repel and protect against dogs and other animals. It will cost approximately 2000 - 3000 rubles. The price is also decent. So the Internet is replete with instructions for assembling homemade stun guns.

After watching several training videos from Youtube, I decided to try to assemble a similar model from scrap materials.

Let me note right away that it didn’t take much time or any special skills to assemble this shocker.
The heart of our device is a high-voltage pulse generator, which is used for electric ignition in gas stoves and water heaters. It is easier and cheaper to order such a device on the Internet. I used the Aliexpress service, where a generator can be purchased for only 130-150 rubles. I'll leave the links at the bottom of the article.

As a body, I decided to use an old non-working flashlight powered by a rechargeable battery. Offhand, all the new “parts” had to fit into the body.
A 3.7V battery was also ordered to power our generator. You can choose another battery, but in this case you need to pay attention to the power and capacity of the battery. Naturally, the larger the capacity, the better.

Having received both orders in the mail, I armed myself with tools and began assembling the stun gun. The first thing I did was disassemble the flashlight and take out its old battery. The small lithium-ion battery had long since died and was useless. In a couple of minutes I soldered the contacts from it to my new battery. It turned out to be quite simple.

The next step is to disconnect the light bulb and place our generator in its place. It was even easier. In principle, you don’t even need to solder - you can just carefully twist the wires and insulate them well. In this case, you need to pay attention to the polarity. The red wire is “+”, the green wire is “-”. This is necessary for the correct operation of the module. By the way, the polarity is often written on the board itself, where the wires to power the light bulb come from.

I connected the generator very easily too. It was time to assemble the device, and then problems arose. Firstly, the old battery was square and much smaller in size. There was nowhere to put the new battery, as well as the generator itself. The flashlight only seemed suitable from the outside. Inside the body there were various grooves, stops and strips on which all the “internals” were held.

And then I had to experiment. To my joy, I found a plastic vitamin jar that fit just perfectly! I stripped the wires through which the generator produces high voltage current and attached screws to them.

Having made holes in the bottom of the jar with an awl, I screwed screws into them from the inside so that their bases were as far apart as possible, and the ends, on the contrary, were close. This is also an important point, since the generator produces a discharge if the distance between the contacts is 1-2 cm. It will not be able to work at idle. This will quickly disable it. In addition, many craftsmen were faced with the following problem: the discharge took place inside the housing, and not at the ends of the electrodes. Therefore, you should not screw in the screws parallel to each other. And that is all! The generator and battery easily fit into the jar, which, after heating with a hairdryer, was screwed onto the flashlight. For additional fixation, I wrapped the joint with electrical tape.
The shocker turned out great. When you turn on the flashlight, a blinding spark appears and a deafening bang is heard. Many craftsmen post videos about how they assemble shockers in PVC tubes, but this is extremely inconvenient. An old flashlight is the best option. You already have a ready-made microcircuit that ensures that the battery is charged from the network and the correct supply of energy to the generator. And the power button is also in place.

Here's what happened in pictures:

Charging plug

The cost of the device was about 300 rubles, not counting the broken flashlight. But the shocker turned out to be quite functional, quite durable and compact. Assembly also took very little time - no more than an hour.

Take necessary precautions when using the device.

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Electroshock devices are one of the best methods for self-defense.

Today you can find it on the market for civilians with a power of no more than 3 watts. The Civil Code is harsh, high-power ESAs are available only to government employees, and for mere mortals the power is limited to 3 watts.

Definitely, the standard 3 watts is clearly not enough for real defense, so you often have to construct electric shock devices with your own hands at home.
In fact, the design of a homemade ESA is quite simple; quite powerful circuits can be implemented using a voltage multiplier at minimal cost. The model in question provides an output power of up to 70 watts, which is 13 times more than the power of an industrial stun gun.
The design consists of a high-voltage inverter and a voltage multiplier.

The inverter is made according to a simple multivibrator circuit using two field switches. The choice of field-effect transistors is quite large. You can use keys from the IRFZ44, IRFZ48, IRF3205, IRL3705 and any other similar series.

The transformer is wound on a ferrite W-shaped core. Such a core can be found in low-power Chinese ETs, as well as in domestic televisions.

All windings from the frame must be removed and new ones wound. The primary winding is wound with 1 mm wire and consists of 2X5 turns. Next, you need to insulate the winding with 10 layers of transparent tape or secondary tape and wind the step-up winding.
This winding is wound with 0.07-0.1 mm wire and consists of 800-1000 turns. The winding is wound in layers, each layer consisting of 80 turns wound evenly. After winding, we assemble the transformer; there is no need to fill it with resin.
The voltage multiplier uses high-voltage capacitors of 5 kV 2200 pF - can be found in domestic televisions. Capacitors can be taken at 3 kV, but the danger of their breakdown is great.

There are many ways to feel confident in a dark alley or on narrow unlit streets, but most of them are either illegal or require a lot of time. Not everyone can easily spend 20-30 thousand rubles on a traumatic weapon and even spend a couple of months on training and obtaining a license. The same applies to martial arts - several years of practicing techniques in the gym does not guarantee protection, and learning to fight in a month is impossible.

One of the best options for protecting yourself and loved ones from attacks by intruders is a stun gun. It does not require a license to carry and is not subject to registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs; it easily fits in a pocket or handbag. Any adult Russian citizen can buy it, but not everyone can afford it. We will look at one of the many ways to assemble a simple and powerful stun gun with your own hands, with diagrams and pictures illustrating the creation process.

Before you start

Homemade stun guns are actually prohibited, since only Russian-made devices that have a license are allowed for use on the territory of the Russian Federation. The very fact of owning such a product may attract the interest of law enforcement agencies.

What is a stun gun

A typical representative of an electrical device for self-defense consists of five components: a battery, a voltage converter, a capacitor, a surge arrester and a transformer. The mechanism of operation is as follows: the capacitor discharges the accumulated charge with some periodicity to the transformer, at the output of which a discharge occurs - that same spark. The problem with this design is this transformer, which is created in the factory from special materials according to a secret scheme that cannot be found on the Internet.

Therefore, the circuit will be slightly different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:

• By pressing the button, the igniting capacitor acts in the same way as in the original circuit - it is discharged to the transformer, and it gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.

• at the moment the spark appears, the fire capacitor is triggered, which sends all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no losses.

As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the result is the same, if not worse, stun gun, while being one and a half times smaller.

How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start

Manufacturing begins with the most complex thing - the transformer. The reason for this is the complexity of winding it, so if the assembler can’t bear it and chooses an easier way to obtain a self-defense device (purchase it), then no effort will be expended on manufacturing the remaining parts.

The basis will be a B22 magnetic armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It is called armored because it is a thing closed on all sides with two terminals. It looks like an ordinary spool, like the one that is inserted into a sewing machine. True, instead of threads, a thin varnished wire with a diameter of approximately 0.1 millimeter is wound into it. You can buy it at the radio market or get it from your alarm clock. Before starting winding, solder leads to the ends of the wire to make the structure stronger and more resistant to breakage.

You need to wind it manually until there is about 1.5 millimeters of free space on the reel. To achieve the best effect, it is better to wind in layers, isolating them from each other with electrical tape or other dielectric. And if you find a PELSHO wire, then you won’t need any insulation at all - it’s already in the wire’s design: just roll it in bulk and add a little machine oil.

After winding is completed, insulate the turns with a couple of rolls of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire (0.7-0.9 millimeters) on top. Halfway through the winding you need to make a retraction - just twist it and bring it out. It is better to fix the entire wire with cyanoacrylate, and fix the two halves of the coil to each other with cyanoacrylate or electrical tape,

Making an output transformer

This is the most difficult part of making your own stun gun. Since it is impossible to make a standard layer transformer at home, we will simplify the design and make it sectional.

As a base, we will take an ordinary propylene tube with a diameter of 2 centimeters. If you still have these after renovating your bathroom, it’s time to use them; if not, buy them at a plumbing store. The main thing is that it is not reinforced with metal. We will need a piece 5-6 centimeters long.

It’s easy to make a sectional frame out of it - fix the workpiece and cut grooves along its diameter with a width and depth of 2 millimeters every two millimeters. Be careful - you cannot cut through the pipe. After this, cut a groove 3 millimeters wide along the frame.

All that remains is to do the winding. It is made of wire with a diameter of 2 millimeters, which is wound around all sections within the tube. A lead should be soldered to the beginning of the wire and secured with glue to avoid accidental breakage.

A ferrite rod with a diameter of 1 centimeter and a length of approximately 5 centimeters is suitable as a core for a transformer. Suitable material can be found in horizontal scan transformers in old Soviet televisions - you just need to adjust it to the dimensions and grind it to the shape of the rod itself. This is a fairly dusty job, so don't do it at home without a respirator. If there is no workshop or garage nearby, use ferrite rings by gluing them together, or buy them at the radio market.

The rod needs to be wrapped with electrical tape and a winding made of 0.8 wire on it (we used it for the second winding of the converter transformer. The winding is made along the entire length of the core, not reaching the edges 5-10 millimeters, and is fixed with electrical tape.

The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.

After this, insulate the core with electrical tape, but watch the diameter - it should fit tightly into the tube. On the side where the winding on the tube does not have a soldered wire, solder two windings (outer and inner) together. This way you will get three outputs - two ends of the windings and a common point.

If you don’t understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.

The final stage is pouring paraffin. Any will do - the main thing is not to boil it to avoid damaging the internal elements of the transformer. Make a small box slightly higher than the height of the transformer. Place the transformer in it, bring the wires out and fill the exit points with glue. After this, pour paraffin into the box and place it on the radiator so that the paraffin does not cool down and all air bubbles come out. We need a headroom because of the shrinkage of the cooling paraffin. Remove excess with a knife.

Do-it-yourself stun gun from scrap materials: wiring

Now it's time to look at the circuit diagram of the stun gun. It looks like this:

• The igniting capacitor is charged through the diode bridge

• The combat capacitor is charged through additional diodes.

Almost any 330 ohm MOSFET transistors are suitable for the converter; the choice of resistors is also not critical. Capacitors of 3300 picofarads are needed to limit the current when starting the device, that is, to protect the converter. If you use high-power transistors (like IRFZ44+), then such protection is not required. and you can do without installing such capacitors.

There is one feature in the circuit: if the contacts are short-circuited (for example, when touching the skin, not clothing), the shocker does not work correctly, since the combat capacitor does not have time to charge. If you want to get rid of this drawback, place a second arrester in series with one of the outputs.

The entire circuit (with the correct arrangement of elements on the board) fits quite well on an area of ​​4 by 5 centimeters. For power supply, we will take 6 nickel-cadmium batteries with a capacity of 300 milliamp-hours, the size of half a AA battery with a power of approximately 15 watts. Thus, the entire device fits into a housing the size of a cigarette pack.

For contacts, it is best to use aluminum rivets. They have sufficient conductivity and have a steel core. It gives two advantages at once: the strength of the contacts increases significantly and there are no problems with soldering aluminum. If they are not available, then ordinary steel plates of any shape will do.

The assembly can be done either on an etched textolite board, or the elements can be soldered with wires. But first, it’s better to assemble it on a breadboard so as not to waste time and effort on remaking the board in case something goes wrong. The high-voltage terminals should be fixed at a short distance (about one and a half centimeters) so that the transformer does not burn out.

After unsoldering, turn on the device. Power must be taken directly from the batteries - do not use power supplies. It will not require any adjustment and should work immediately after switching on; the sparking frequency is approximately 35 hertz. If it is significantly less, the reason is most likely an incorrectly wound transformer or incorrect transistors.

If everything works correctly, then separate the output contacts by a centimeter and start the device again. A standard shocker has a distance between contacts of 2.5 centimeters. If everything works correctly, then spread the contacts another centimeter and test the device again. If it works well, bring them back to the standard 2.5 centimeters. Such a power reserve is needed for the device to operate in any conditions of humidity and pressure.

If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last stage - creating the case.

Housing for a stun gun at home

Since stamping the body at home is not available, and 3D printers are not available everywhere and not to everyone, we will use a folk remedy - epoxy resin. Forming such a box is a painstaking process, but this material has a number of advantages:

• solidity;
• tightness;
• electrical insulation.

To create, you will need the epoxy resin itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.

It is better to start the process by cutting out the back cover of the case from cardboard with a pre-drawn plan for the arrangement of parts, and then paste it with strips of cardboard around the perimeter using a glue gun. The strips should be as long as the width of the shocker (about 3 centimeters) plus room for stickers. You need to glue from the outside of the base, while carefully ensuring that the seam is sealed.

After all the strips have been glued, place the circuit elements inside and evaluate the correctness of their arrangement. Also determine where you will have the start button and the battery charging connector. If everything is satisfactory, then check the correct connection of the elements to each other and the operation of the shocker again. Pay special attention to the tightness of the case - epoxy can penetrate into invisible crevices and leave difficult to remove stains on any surface.

It's time to start filling the mold with epoxy resin. Set the filled mold aside and wait 6-8 hours. After this time, it will not become hard, but will be flexible enough to give the body the desired ergonomic shape. After complete hardening, treat the epoxy with sandpaper and varnish with any varnish, for example, tsaponlak.

As a result, you will receive a reliable and durable device that is not afraid of shocks, falls and water. How to test it? Take a 0.25 amp fuse and place it between the contacts. After starting the device, the fuse will burn out - this shows that the power of the device exceeds 250 milliamps, which is significant power that can stop even the most zealous and large-sized attacker.

Technical characteristics of homemade stun gun
- voltage on the electrodes - 10 kV,
- pulse frequency up to 10 Hz,
- voltage 9 V. (Krona battery),
- weight no more than 180 g.

Device design:

The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to electrodes and placed in a housing made of dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetrical multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on by button SB1. The load of transistor VT1 is the primary winding of transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the button SB2 is turned on is the supply for the second converter on the trinistor VS2. Charging capacitor C7 through resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dinistor VS1 leads to the switching off of the trinistor VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged onto the primary winding of transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the polarity of the voltage on the battery C2-C6 is reversed, after which it is restored due to redischarge through the primary winding of transformer T2 and diode VD5. When capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistor VD1, the thyristor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.

All elements are installed on a board made of foiled fiberglass, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The body can be any suitable sized box made of material that does not allow electricity to pass through.

The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal fur. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.

The device does not require adjustment and operates reliably only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of standard size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEV-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an internal diameter of 8 mm, an external diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a jaw diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic core is a section of a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.

Winding I contains 20 turns of PESH (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. First, winding II is wound onto the frame, through each layer of which a varnished fabric gasket is placed (otherwise a breakdown may occur between the turns of the secondary winding), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The secondary winding leads are carefully insulated and connected to the electrodes.

Among the means of self-defense, electric shock devices (ESD) are not in last place, especially in terms of the strength of their psychological impact on attackers. However, the cost is considerable, which encourages radio amateurs to create their own stun gun analogues.

Without claiming super-originality and super-novelty of ideas, I propose my development, which can be repeated by anyone who has at least once in their life dealt with winding a transformer and installing the simplest devices such as a detector radio with an amplifier using one or two transistors.

The basis of the do-it-yourself stun gun I propose is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts direct voltage from a power source such as a Krona galvanic battery (Korund, 6PLF22) or a Nika battery into increased alternating voltage, with a standard multiplier U. Very important the element of the ESA is a homemade transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic core for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be split off, for example, from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, after first filing the original one around the circumference with the edge of an abrasive stone. But a transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television fuel assembly. True, in this case you will have to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic core.

The base tube of the frame for placing transformer windings on it is a 50-mm piece of plastic casing from a used felt-tip pen, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the above-mentioned ferrite rod. Cheeks measuring 40x40 mm are cut from a 3 mm sheet of vinyl plastic or plexiglass. They are firmly connected to the tube-segment of the felt-tip pen body, having previously lubricated the seats with dichloroethane.

For transformer windings, in this case, copper wire is used in high-strength enamel insulation based on Viniflex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. Winding 2 has almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.

As interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplastic) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, it is quite acceptable to use 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove it from the 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the old installation fittings for fluorescent lamps, which have seemingly exhausted their service life long ago, and cut them exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.

After every three “wire” layers in the author’s version, a wide brush was used to “coat” the resulting winding with epoxy glue, slightly diluted with acetone (so that the “epoxy” was not very viscous) and the capacitor-paper insulation was laid in 2 layers. Then, without waiting for hardening, the winding continued.

To avoid wire breakage due to uneven rotation of the frame during winding, PEV2-0.15 was passed through the ring. The latter hung on a spring made of steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 mm, slightly pulling the wire upward. Anti-breakdown protection was installed between the high-voltage and other windings - 6 layers of the same capacitor paper with epoxy.

The ends of the windings are soldered to pins passed through holes in the cheeks. However, conclusions can be drawn without tearing the winding wires from the same PEV2, folding them 2, 4, 8 times (depending on the diameter of the wire) and twisting them.

The finished transformer is wrapped in one layer of fiberglass and filled with epoxy resin. During installation, the terminals of the windings are pressed against the cheeks and placed with the ends as far apart as possible from each other (especially in the high-voltage winding) in the corresponding compartment of the housing. As a result, even with 10-minute operation (and longer continuous use of a protective stun gun with your own hands is not required), breakdowns at the transformer are excluded.

In the original design, the ESD generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installing them on small plate radiators made it possible to reduce the weight and size of the entire device. This was also facilitated by the use of well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier. As a result, we managed to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and arrester pins) into a plastic case like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the assembled protective ESA is about 300 g.

In the housing between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as at the electrodes on the soldering side, partitions made of sufficiently strong plastic are required - as a measure to strengthen the structure as a whole and as a precaution to avoid sparks jumping from one radio element of installation to another, as well as as a means of protecting the transformer itself from breakdowns. Brass whiskers are attached to the outside under the electrodes to reduce the distance between the electrodes, which facilitates the formation of a protective discharge.

A protective spark is formed without a “whisker”: between the points of the pins - the working parts, but this increases the risk of breakdown of the transformer, “firmware” of the installation inside the housing.

In fact, the idea of ​​a “mustache” was borrowed from “branded” models and designs. As they say, such a technical solution as the use of a slide-type switch has been adopted: in order to avoid self-switching on when the electroshock protective equipment is resting, say, in the chest or side pocket of its owner.

It would be worthwhile, I think, to warn radio amateurs about the need to carefully handle the protective ESA, both during the design and commissioning period, and when walking around with a ready-made stun gun with your own hands. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal. Do not exceed the limits of necessary self-defense!

The idea of ​​​​creating a stun gun with increased efficiency came to me after testing several similar industrial devices on myself. During the tests, it turned out that they deprive the enemy of combat effectiveness only after 4...8 seconds of exposure, and only if you are lucky :) Needless to say, as a result of real use, such a shocker will most likely end up in the rear seat of the owner.

Info: Our legislation allows shockers with an output power of no more than 3 J/sec (1 J/sec = 1 W) for mere mortals, while at the same time, devices with a power of up to 10 W are allowed for air traffic police workers. But even 10 watts is not enough to effectively neutralize the enemy; The Americans, during experiments on volunteers, became convinced of the extreme ineffectiveness of 5...7 W shockers, and decided to create a device that would specifically extinguish the enemy. Such a device was created: "ADVANCED TASER M26" (one of the modifications of the "AirTaser" from the company of the same name).

The device is created using EMD technology, and in other words, has increased output power. Specifically - 26 watts (as they say, “feel the difference” :)). In general, there is another model of this device - M18, with a power of 18 watts. This is due to the fact that the taser is a remote shocker: when you press the trigger, two probes are fired from a cartridge inserted into the front of the device, followed by wires. The probes do not fly parallel to each other, but diverge at a slight angle, due to which at the optimal distance (2...3 m) the distance between them becomes 20...30 cm. It is clear that if the probes end up somewhere in the wrong place, It might turn out to be a mess. That's why they released a device with less power.

At first I made stun guns that were similar in efficiency to industrial ones (out of ignorance:). But when I found out the information given above, I decided to develop a REAL stun gun, worthy of being called a self-defense WEAPON. By the way, in addition to electric shockers, there are also PARALYZERS, but they do not steer at all, because they paralyze muscles only in the contact zone, and the effect is not achieved immediately, even with high power.

The Mega Shocker's output parameters are partially borrowed from the "ADVANCED TASER M26". According to available data, the device generates pulses with a repetition frequency of 15...18 Hz and an energy of 1.75 J at a voltage of 50 Kv (since the lower the voltage, the higher the current at the same power). Since the MegaShocker is still a contact device, and also out of concern for one’s own health :), it was decided to make the pulse energy equal to 2...2.4 J, and their repetition frequency - 20...30 Hz. This is at a voltage of 35...50 kilovolts and a maximum distance between the electrodes (at least 10 cm).

The scheme, however, turned out to be somewhat complicated, but nevertheless:

Scheme: A control generator (PWM controller) is assembled on the DA1 chip, and a voltage converter 12v --> 500v is built on transistors Q1, Q2 and transformer T1. When capacitors C9 and C10 are charged to 400...500 volts, the threshold unit on the elements R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1 is triggered, and a current pulse passes through the primary winding T2, the energy of which is calculated using formula 1.2 (E - energy (J), C - capacitance C9 + C10 (μF), U - voltage (V)). At U = 450v and C = 23 μF, the energy will be 2.33 J. The response threshold is set by summary R14. Capacitor C6 or C7 (depending on the position of switch S3) limits the power of the device, otherwise it will tend to infinity and the circuit will burn out.

Capacitor C6 provides maximum power (“MAX”), C7 provides demonstration power (“DEMO”), which allows you to admire the electric discharge without the risk of burning the device and/or draining the battery :) (when you turn on the “DEMO” mode, you also need to turn off S4). The capacitance of C6 and C7 is calculated using formula 1.1, or simply selected (for a power of 45 watts at a frequency of 17 KHz, the capacitance will be about 0.02 µF). HL1 - a fluorescent lamp (LB4, LB6 or similar (C8 is selected)), placed for camouflage - so that the device looks like a sophisticated flashlight and does not arouse suspicion among various types of police officers and other individuals (otherwise they may be taken away, I had a case - they took it away similar device). Of course, you can do without a lamp. Elements R5-C2 determine the frequency of the generator, with the indicated ratings f = ~17KHz. The R11 cap limits the output voltage; you can do without it altogether - just connect R16-C5 to the case. Diode D1 protects the circuit from damage when connected in the wrong polarity. The fuse is a fire safety fuse (for example: if a thread shorts somewhere, the battery may explode (there have been cases)).

Now for assembling the device: you can assemble the entire device on a breadboard, but it is recommended to solder the pulse circuit (C9-C10-R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1) by surface mounting, with the wires connecting C9-C10, SCR1 and T2 should be as short as possible. The same applies to elements Q1, Q2, C4 and T1. Transformers T1 and T2 should be located away from each other.

T1 is wound on two ring cores made of M2000NM1 folded together, standard size K32*20*6. First, a winding of 3 - 320 turns of 0.25 PEL is wound, turn to turn. Windings 1 and 2 each contain 8 turns of PEL 0.8...1.0. They are wound simultaneously into two wires; the turns should be evenly distributed along the magnetic circuit.

T2 is wound on a core of transformer plates. The plates must be insulated from each other with film (paper, tape, etc.) The cross-sectional area of ​​the core must be at least 450 square millimeters. First, a winding of 1 - 10...15 turns of PEL wire 1.0...1.2 is wound. Winding 2 contains 1000...1500 turns and is wound in layers of turn to turn, each winding layer is insulated with several layers of tape or capacitor film (which can be obtained by breaking the smoothing conductor from the LDS lamp. Then it is all filled with epoxy resin. Attention - the primary winding must be carefully isolate from the secondary! Otherwise, something nasty might happen (the device may fail, or it may electrocute the owner. And it’s not a bad idea...). Switch S1 is a type of fuse (with SUCH power, caution won’t hurt), S2 is a button switching on, both switches must be designed for a current of at least 10A.

A distinctive feature of the scheme is that everyone can configure it for themselves (in the sense of the enemy:) The output power of the device can be in the range from 30 to 75 watts (doing less than 30, IMHO, is inappropriate). And more than 75 is simply bad, because... with further increases in power, the efficiency will not be much greater, but the risk will increase significantly. Well, the dimensions of the device will be a bit smaller.) Output voltage - 35...50 thousand volts. The discharge frequency must be at least 18...20 per second. Recommended parameters - 40 watts, single pulse energy 1.75 J at a voltage of 40 Kv. (if you lower the voltage, you can reduce the pulse energy, the efficiency will remain the same. 1.75 J at 40 Kv will be approximately the same as 2.15 J at 50 Kv. But making the voltage less than 35 Kv is inappropriate, since then the skin resistance, i.e., the current, will interfere in impulse will be insufficient).

What is most important in a person’s life, besides family happiness, a secure existence and the realization of one’s own ambitions? Naturally personal security and self-confidence. Of course, it’s good to be confident when you are two meters tall, have sloping shoulders, and you are fluent. But what about those who do not have such wonderful physical characteristics? To do this, they came up with one very effective device called a stun gun. Today we will try to assemble a stun gun with our own hands. It turns out that there is nothing complicated about this self-defense tool. You can make a stun gun with a minimum of knowledge in electrical engineering, but maximum diligence, however, just like when creating any other homemade weapons. I would like to warn you right away that I did not assemble this device myself; I found the assembly instructions on the Internet and posted them on the website purely for informational purposes. So, I cannot vouch for the reliability of the information. If anyone finds errors in the device, please leave a comment and we will correct it.

So for electroshock device assembly, we will need:

1. converter
2. capacitor
3. arrester
4. transformer

The principle of operation is quite simple: the igniting capacitor gives a discharge to the spark gap-transformer pair and the fighting capacitor, resulting in a fairly powerful electric pulse at the output.

Let's start with making the converter transformer. We will need a B22 core made of 2000NM ferrite, onto which we need to wind thin enameled wire with a diameter of 0.1 millimeters. This device is similar to a sewing machine bobbin and can be purchased at an electrical supply store.

We wind until there is 1.5 millimeters left to the edge. You should get five or six layers of winding. Between each layer you need to lay electrical tape. Next, we completely wrap everything with electrical tape in a couple of layers and make the winding with thicker wire with a diameter of 0.9 millimeters. Somewhere on the third layer we make a layering and wind the remaining turns. We connect the bobbin covers and wrap everything again with electrical tape.

Now we are waiting for the manufacture of a more complex part - the output transformer. We buy a polypropylene tube with a diameter of 20 mm at a plumbing store. Cut a piece five centimeters long. Now we need to make a frame out of it; to do this, insert a bolt suitable for the diameter of the tube into the drill, wrap electrical tape around it and insert it into the tube. In place of the cutter, you can use a metal file or sharpened steel plastic. We make grooves two millimeters deep and wide, but be careful not to cut through the tube. Then use a knife to cut a groove along the entire tube, two to three millimeters wide.

Now we need a ferrite rod with a diameter of ten millimeters and a length of fifty millimeters. It can be taken from the horizontal scan transformer of an old TV. We break off the pieces we need from it and glue them together to make a rod of the desired size. You can sand it until it is round. However, you can buy ferrite rings in the store and glue them together with superglue.

We wrap the rod with a layer of electrical tape and wrap a 0.9 millimeter wire around it, departing 5-10 millimeters from the edges. Be sure to wind it in the same direction as on the sections of the tube. Next, we insulate it with electrical tape, but so that the rod with the winding can freely enter the tube. We insert the rod into the tube from the side where there is no wiring outlet, and connect the two windings together. The result should be three outputs: the end from the first winding, the common connected end and the HV output. The winding phases must be in the same direction. Next we put the transformer in a cardboard box and fill it with paraffin.

The figure below shows a diagram of a stun gun.

The ignition capacitor is charged through the bridge, and at the same time the combat capacitor is charged through the diodes. Diodes are needed to divide the capacitor circuit into two different ones.All parts used in the circuit can be bought at the store and placed on a 40X45 mm board.

You will need:

1. transistors IRFZ24; IRL2505
2. Resistors
3. 3300 peak capacitor
4. batteries 6 pieces NicD size 1/2 AA

Now let's start the assembly process.The stun gun case can be made from cardboard.We insert the “insides” of the shocker there and fill it with epoxy.

I did not describe in detail the entire assembly process, because everything that is needed is indicated in the diagram above. Those who can understand such circuits and hold a soldering iron in their hands will easily cope with the task without these “valuable” instructions, those who cannot... well, they are unlikely to succeedmake a stun gun with your own handsand it’s better to let them buy it in the store.

After the epoxy has hardened, you can begin testing a homemade stun gun on annoying neighbors (joke)

It is quite difficult to defend yourself in a closed space from an unexpected attacker. For example, how to stop a robber in an elevator? or they can harm themselves, and a knife or pistol can become a deadly weapon. They will also give you a deadline.

Therefore, the best option would be, which, by the way, can be made independently. And today we will tell you how to make regular and powerful mini stun guns at home.

Before moving on to special types of devices, let's talk about how to make the simplest stun gun.

Necessary equipment and raw materials

Here is a list of necessary materials and parts:

• silicone;
• insulating tape;
• a ferrite rod pulled from an old radio;
• plastic bag;
• scotch;
• wire;
• wire with a diameter of 0.5 to 1 millimeter;
• wire with a diameter of 0.4 to 0.7 millimeters;
• wire with a diameter of 0.8 millimeters;
• a ferrite transformer removed from the switching power supply of any electronic device;
• fuse;
• battery for power supply;
• diodes, capacitor and resistor for the charger;
• Light-emitting diode;
• switches;
• old suitable housing or plastic for its manufacture.

Now let’s find out how to make a homemade stun gun.

Creation technology

High voltage coil

First we make a high-voltage coil.

1. To do this, we wrap a ferrite rod about five centimeters long with electrical tape in three layers, then fifteen turns of the thinnest wire.
2. On top there are five more layers of electrical tape and six layers of tape.
3. We cut the plastic bag into strips ten centimeters long and width corresponding to the length of the coil.
4. Next comes the secondary winding with a thicker wire (from 350 to 400 turns) in the same direction as the primary winding.
5. We insulate each row of wire (from 40 to 50 turns) with plastic tape and five rows of tape.
6. At the end there are two layers of electrical tape and ten layers of tape. Fill the sides with silicone.

Converter transformer

Now we make the converter transformer.

• Its basis will be a ferrite transformer, from which you need to remove all the windings and the ferrite frame (to do this, you may have to immerse the part in boiling water for a while).
• We wind the primary winding from a wire 0.8 millimeters thick (12 turns). The secondary winding is 600 turns (70 turns in a row) with millimeter wire.
• To insulate each row, we lay four layers of electrical tape. Having inserted the ferrite halves, we secure the structure using electrical tape or tape.

Spark gap and other parts

The next part is the spark gap.

1. For this, we’ll take an old fuse, remove the tin on its contacts with a hot soldering iron, and pull out the internal wire.
2. Screw in the screws on both sides (they should not be in contact).
3. By changing the gap between them, you can change the frequency of discharges.

We take ready-made batteries:

• lithium-ion (pulled from a mobile phone),
• nickel-cadmium or lithium-polymer.

The latter are very capacious, but they must be purchased, and this is expensive.

For the charger we solder a diode bridge, a capacitor, a resistor and a signal LED. A diagram with the characteristics of the parts can be found on the Internet. Charging time will be about three to four hours.

As for the case, you can find something suitable by gutting the faulty device. Or glue it together from plastic parts. You can even make a case out of cardboard by filling it with epoxy. The result is a stun gun with a power of about five watts, consuming up to three amperes of current. We remember that a person should not be exposed to a discharge for more than three seconds.

Special types of homemade ESA

From a flashlight

So, how to make a stun gun from a flashlight like the so popular, or, for example,?

1. In fact, you only need the flashlight body - you can also leave the LED. This is convenient since there are already batteries inside.
2. Four high-voltage coils and converters taken from electric lighters for gas stoves should also be placed there.
3. Arresters and a separate switch are added to the circuit.
4. Each transformer has its own two contacts.
5. The arresters are made from narrow steel strips or pieces of paper clips.

We will tell you further about how to make a stun gun from a battery.

From a battery

This is the easy way. For it you will need:

• 9-watt Krona battery;
• ebonite rod from 30 to 40 centimeters long;
• converting transformer (ready, removed from the charger or network adapter);
• insulating tape;
• steel wire;
• push-button switch.

We take an ebonite rod and tape two five-centimeter pieces of steel wire to it with electrical tape. They need to be connected using a wire with a transformer and a battery. The switch is attached to the opposite end of the rod. When you press its button, a discharge (arc) will appear between the pieces of wire. To do this you need to press 25 times per second.

The power of the device is small - it can be used for intimidation rather than for protection.

From a lighter

So, how to make a stun gun from a lighter? We will need:

• battery-powered electric lighter;
• clip;
• glue;
• soldering iron and solder.

We disassemble the lighter and cut off the tube with a hacksaw. We only need a handle with wires coming out of it. We leave them one or two centimeters long, cutting them off with pliers. Then we expose their ends and solder pieces of paper clips there. We bend the ends slightly. We fix the entire structure with glue. The power of the device is also not too high.

The video below will show you how to make a stun gun from a lighter at home:

Handle-shaped

You will need:

• small carnation;
• two lighters (one certainly with a piezoelectric element);
• a handle with a button and a metal clip, having a sufficiently large diameter to accommodate a piezoelectric element;
• hacksaw for metal;
• glue gun

1. We disassemble one of the lighters and remove the piezoelectric element.
2. We disassemble the handle, take out the inner plastic sleeve and cut out its middle part to a length corresponding to the size of the piezoelectric element.
3. We remove the clip and use a heated nail (using a second lighter) to make a hole in the upper part of the handle body.
4. Use a hacksaw to make a cut for the wire.
5. We put the handle button in place, use a heat gun to glue the insulation of the piezoelectric element wire and glue it to the second part of the plastic inner sleeve.
6. We insert everything into the handle body, pull the wire through the hole, then pass it along the cut groove and clamp it with a metal clip from the handle.
7. We insert the lower part of the sleeve and assemble the handle.
8. Now, when you press the button, the clip will produce an electric shock.

But this is more of a toy than a means of self-defense. Now let's find out how to make a stun gun from a capacitor at home.

From the capacitor

We take a capacitor from a long fluorescent lamp. Previously, in Soviet times, it was rectangular, red or green. In modern models it is a white cylinder.

We also need a wire (double) with a plug at the end. The length of the wire can be left about ten to fifteen centimeters.

We expose the ends opposite the plug, screw them to the contacts of the capacitor and carefully insulate them. There you go. Now, after charging from the mains, a discharge will appear at the ends of the plug, quite noticeable. But it doesn’t cause harm – it only stings.

The video below will show you how to make a powerful stun gun at home:

The problem of ensuring the safety and protection of themselves and their loved ones from attacks on life or property worries every person. There are many methods and means for self-defense, but not all of them are available for purchase and use.

The best weapon for protection and self-defense is considered to be electric shock, which does not require a license or registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs. Anyone can purchase a stun gun upon reaching the age of 18, and thanks to its compact size and light weight, the stun gun can be carried in a pocket or in a woman’s purse.

A typical stun gun consists of several components - a converter (1), a capacitor (2), a spark gap (3) and a transformer (4). You can see all this in the picture below. It also works in a simple way. The capacitor is periodically discharged into the transformer, producing a spark discharge at its output. It would seem very simple, but as practice has shown, there is a hidden trick here (fulminat) and it is hidden precisely in this very transformer. At home, it is almost impossible to make sure that it transmits the impulse correctly and is sufficiently effective; this requires special materials, equipment, and most importantly, calculations that are kept a big secret - you will not find anything on this topic on the Internet. In addition, the transformer has purely design limitations that do not allow the powerful single pulses that we need to be transmitted through it.

We decided to cheat and came up with how to make a stun gun with your own hands is 3 times easier while maintaining all power. The action occurs as follows: the igniting capacitor works on the spark gap-transformer system in the same way as a stun gun, as a result of which a high-voltage pulse appears at its output, penetrating several centimeters of air. And at this moment the main, combat capacitor comes into play, which directly hits with all its joules through the formed ionized channel. The point here is that at the moment of formation of an electric discharge, a conducting channel appears, which essentially replaces a piece of wire. Thus, using high voltage, we supply a charge to the object with virtually no losses, which allows us to reduce the dimensions and the actual power of the device necessary to achieve the wild anger of its action.

Let's start making the shocker with the most complex part - transformers. As practice has shown, difficulties with repeating shockers usually lie in winding - during the process, many people lose their nerve and the structure is subject to premature breaking with a hammer :-D Therefore, we followed the path of industry, where, as is well known, they proceed from what is easier to make in large quantities and without problems. In this case, the process becomes almost entertainment, but do not forget about attentiveness - the transformer does not cease to be the most important part of the device.

CONVERTER TRANSFORMER

You will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. Let me explain, armored does not mean bulletproof :-) but simply a structure closed on all sides in which only holes are left for wires. It consists of two small cups between which there is a bobbin, almost like in a sewing machine :-)

You just need to wind it not with threads, but with a thin enameled wire with a diameter of about 0.1 mm, it can be taken from a Chinese alarm clock. We take this wire and wind it on the bobbin, not counting the turns, until there is about 1.5mm of free space left.

For the best result, you need to wrap it in layers, laying thin electrical tape between them. This way you should have 5-6 layers. If you are lucky enough to get a PELSHO wire, just wind it loosely, without any insulation, periodically dripping a little machine oil. It is useful to attach thin stranded leads to the ends of the wire for greater reliability.

Next, we insulate it all in 1-2 layers of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire, something in the region of 0.7-0.9 mm, with a tap from the middle, i.e. on the 3rd turn we stop the process and make a retraction (twisting), then we wind the remaining 3 turns. It wouldn’t hurt to fix all this with superglue or something else. At the end, we glue the cups together, or simply wrap them with electrical tape if we are not sure about the quality of the winding.

OUTPUT TRANSFORMER

We've trained and that's enough. Now the really tricky part. Although, looking ahead, I will say that compared to what I had to do before, THIS is just entertainment;-) Because winding a traditional layer transformer at home and the first time, and even to make it work, WILL NOT work. Instead of layers, our transformer will have sections.

First you need to get a polypropylene tube with a diameter of 20mm. They are sold in plumbing stores as a replacement for regular water pipes. It looks like a white taka with a thick wall, pure plastic. There is a very similar one, but metal-plastic will not work. We need a piece only 5-6cm in length.

Through a complex process, this piece must become a sectional frame. This is done in the following way - we take a drill into which we clamp a drill or bolt close in diameter to fit into the tube, wrap electrical tape around it to ensure that the tube sits tightly and evenly. Next, we take a cutter that can be made from a steel plate, emery cloth, etc., and begin to make grooves, trying to figure out how to avoid cutting through the pipe. The result should be sections approximately 2x2 mm, i.e. 2 mm deep and wide. To make them smoother after sharpening, you can sharpen them a little with a needle file. Then we take a paper knife and make a 2-3mm wide cut along the entire frame, watch carefully because You can cut through the pipe wall, which may require rework. This completes the preparation.

Because then the fun begins. This time we need a wire with a diameter of about 0.2 mm. It can be used in a power supply, starters, etc.. This wire needs to be wound around all sections of our frame, without being too zealous, so that the wire does not extend beyond the section, or better yet, a little short. Before winding, a small stranded wire is again soldered to the beginning of the wire, which must be firmly fixed with glue so that it does not come off if something happens. We do not connect the end of the wire to anything yet.

Now we need to find a ferrite rod with a diameter of about 10 mm and a length of about 50. We need a 2000NM ferrite; a horizontal scan transformer from a domestic TV is suitable for these purposes. We need to remove everything unnecessary from it. Then carefully split it as shown in the picture. If the stitch is made of small halves, then they can be glued together with superglue to obtain a longer rod. To process ferrite, you need to use a sharpener (emery wheel) to end up with a round rod with a diameter of about 10 mm and a length of about 50. The process is very difficult, during it you can fully feel like a coal mine worker:-D Instead of a rod, you can use many small ferrite rings glued together - some people find it easier to buy them, but they are also made from 2000NM ferrite :-)

The rod needs to be wrapped with a layer of electrical tape and wound 20 turns of 0.8 wire - what we used in the first transformer, stretching the winding over its entire length, only retreating 5-10 mm at the edges and fixing the wire with threads or the same electrical tape. YOU NEED TO WIND THE WIRE IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS ON THE SECTION, for example, clockwise or counterclockwise as you like;-) Then we insulate everything in several layers, as far as the internal diameter of the tube allows, so that it fits inside tightly but without force.

After the preparatory and winding process, we perform the following trick. We insert the rod inside the frame, and on the side where the HV winding ends (where there is no output in the form of wiring) CONNECT THE 2 WINDINGS TOGETHER!!! Thus, the transformer will have 3 terminals instead of the usual 4: the end from the 1st winding, the common point and the HV terminal. ATTENTION! Pay attention to the phasing (winding in the same direction), otherwise the shocker will not work.

To complete the process, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. To do this, melt the paraffin in a tin can, but you don’t need to heat it, otherwise the hot paraffin will damage the frame and all your work will go down the drain. The conclusions must first be sealed with some kind of glue so that the paraffin does not leak out :-) It is best to carry out the process in two stages. First, pour paraffin, then place it in front of the fan heater or on the radiator so that it warms up for 10-15 minutes, this way all the air bubbles will float up and go away. The boxes need to be made with a RESERVE IN HEIGHT because after cooling the paraffin shrinks greatly. You can remove excess with a knife. This technology is almost as good as the vacuum process in a factory, but can be used in the kitchen. If you have the opportunity to borrow an industrial vacuum pump, it is better to use epoxy instead of paraffin - it is more reliable.

It's time to see the stun gun circuit diagram. It is very simple and I think will not cause problems with understanding. The igniting conductor is charged through the bridge, and at the same time the combat one is charged through additional diodes. These diodes are needed so that the capacitors do not create one circuit, otherwise you would have to wind a separate trans winding and a second bridge, which is very stressful - you will have to isolate the trans no worse than the output one and the dimensions will be larger. You can safely ignore some difference in charging time, which in theory is present with this option, because in practice it simply does not exist. This implies only one limitation: the capacitors must be the same. Which, in general, doesn’t really bother us.

All the parts are not particularly scarce, they can be freely ordered or simply bought at the market. the size of the shocker and the quality of its work depend on them.

Everything else can be bet whatever comes to hand. Almost any transistors are suitable for the converter, from IRFZ24 to IRL2505. Resistors are also uncritical and can differ in one direction or another. A 3300 peak capacitor is needed to limit the inrush current at the time of startup, i.e. to protect the converter. When using fairly powerful transistors (IRFZ44+), it can be omitted.

There is one interesting feature in the operation of this stun gun circuit that some may have already noticed. Namely, when the contacts are short-circuited, for example when both electrodes are in direct contact with the skin, the correct operation of the shocker is disrupted, because the combat condenser does not have time to charge to the required voltage. In this case, this jamb is not as important as in multiplying shockers, because the voltage across the capacitor is only about 1000 volts, which is not enough even to pierce a thin T-shirt. Therefore, for simplicity and cost reduction of the design, no attention was paid to this fact. But still, if you are going to go to war with nudists :-D THEN YOU NEED TO INSTALL A SECOND DISCHARGER in series with any of the shocker’s output electrodes!

Now a little about the design composition of the device. The entire stun gun circuit, when using the specified parts, is placed on a board measuring 40*45mm. The batteries are 6 pieces NicD size 1/2 AA, i.e. half as long as regular finger-type ones, with a capacity of 300 mAh. Which corresponds to a power of approximately 15 watts. They are sold as spare parts for radiotelephones in the form of blocks of 3 or 4 pieces. The cost is around hundreds of wooden ones per block;-) Thus, the entire shocker can be made the size of a pack of cigarettes.

The assembly sequence is as follows. To begin with, we refuse the fee, because... Anyone in the process will have to resolder certain parts and it will inevitably go there... We take a radiator, for example from a computer's power supply, and put transistors on it. The radiator must either have insulating gaskets or then you need 2 separate radiators so that they do not touch each other.. We screw them there and solder everything else directly on the weight. Thus, the initial layout should look like a pile of junk on your table :-) Don't forget to fix the HV pins at the required distance (to begin with, no more than 15mm) otherwise the transformer and everything else behind it will also burn out.

We turn on the device. Power must be taken from those batteries that will later go into the device; all sorts of power supplies and other sources will not work! In principle, the shocker does not require any settings and should work immediately. The question is how it will work. With the indicated batteries, the discharge frequency is about 35 hertz. If it is less, there are two options: either the transformer is wound poorly, or you used other transistors and you need to select resistances of 330 ohms.

We look at the datasheet for the trans you need, look for the line “INPUT CAPACITANCE” there, the higher the number, the less resistance should be and vice versa. For example, for IRFZ44 it can be 1k, and for IRL2505 no more than 240 Ohms. By selecting we achieve the optimal discharge frequency... Next, we begin to route the output contacts to the expected distance that you need (for example, I have 25mm). If everything is ok, spread it another centimeter! and in this state we do the test for 5 seconds. If everything is ok, return the previous distance. This reserve should be present anyway, because air breakdown depends on many factors such as humidity, pressure, etc., so if the distance is “at the limit,” at one point the entire structure will go into oblivion. For the same reason, 2 diodes are used everywhere instead of one, although with one everything (seemingly) works fine.

If everything works as it should, you can safely solder the parts into the board and move on to the next stage...

Since we cannot stamp plastic parts like in a factory, and few people have the opportunity to use a factory body, there is only one thing left - EPOXY. The process is of course painstaking, but it has a number of advantages. The result is a monolithic block that is not afraid of shocks, water ingress, and is absolutely reliable electrically. To make it you will need epoxy itself, take a lot of it, thin cardboard from some kind of box, a glue gun and some other little things...

The process begins with cutting out the base from cardboard, i.e. "view from above". For this, it is very convenient to use a notebook sheet on which you first mark out a plan of how and what will be located where, then stick it on cardboard and cut it out...

Now your task is to paste these strips around the perimeter of the base. The process is quite complicated. To bend the cardboard, it is convenient to use long-nose pliers or tweezers. It is necessary to glue from the outside, while making sure that the seam is tight.

Place all the main parts inside the case to evaluate their internal layout. At this stage, you need to decide where the switch and start button will be located :-) as well as the socket for charging the battery.

Let's apply heat shrink. It is very convenient to use it for some recessing of protruding elements inside. Please note that after pouring, processing will follow and about 2-3mm will be removed on the sides due to the cardboard. Heat shrinking also allows you to achieve better tightness - the photo shows that it is closed from the outside (just squeeze it with tweezers while it is hot). At the same stage, you need to connect all the parts together and check the operation of the shocker in this state. I used aluminum rivets, thicker and thinner respectively, as combat and protective electrodes. There is a steel rod inside the aluminum, so there should be no problems with soldering, but it is still very convenient to use acid.

Let's fill it up! There is nothing special to explain here, but keep in mind that epoxy tends to penetrate everywhere it is not needed, so check the tightness before pouring. Have you checked? now again. After that you can start...

Processing stage. After 6-8 hours, when the epoxy has set securely, it is still quite soft. At this point, you can cut off the excess with a mounting knife, giving the shocker a convenient shape to hold in your hand. This will not save you from the need to do further processing with sandpaper and sandpaper, but you will save a lot of nerve cells;-) After processing, the body can be coated with some kind of varnish, for example tsapon.

And here is the result! After all, you can be happy looking at such a thing. Now you can bite the protective electrodes to the desired length if you have not already done so, and go ahead!

So, the shocker is made, it crackles loudly and makes an impression on others;-) But how can you really check the degree of its anger? At the beginning we said that this depends on the current in the pulse that the shocker gives. So that’s what we’ll be looking for ;-) Below you see a comparison of the discharge from a regular ratchet and our device:

It can be seen that the discharge is much thicker, it has a characteristic yellow color and flashes at the edges, which indicates a large current. How big? Let's do a simple test. Take a regular 0.25A mains fuse and place it between the shocker contacts so that there is no direct contact. The fuse will burn out. This means that the output current exceeds 250 mA!!! Compare with fractions of a milliampere in a conventional shocker :-) It is clear that in real conditions, due to the resistance of body tissue, this current will be less, but still TENS OF TIMES higher than the values ​​​​for ordinary civilian and even police models!